Taking in the sights of Lisbon takes a lot out of you!
Sometimes you just need a little pick me up…a little dessert to tide you over until dinnertime.
So…where do you go? There are many places throughout Lisbon that you will spot pastel de nata, a Portuguese egg custard tart pastry being sold. If you are in Belém, however, the place to go is Pastéis de Belém.
A popular dessert in other parts of western Europe, Asia and former Portuguese colonies, such as Brazil, Mozambique, Macau, Goa and East Timor, it is most well known as the dessert of choice in Portugal and is sometimes called Pastel de Belém or Pastries of Bethlehem.
A visit to the Monasteiro Jeronimos had brought us to Belém and I had decided that we would check out the dessert shop while we were in the area.
A short walk from the monastery took us to the shop that was established at the beginning of the nineteenth century. At the time, convents and monasteries in the country were shut down due to the Liberal Revolution in 1820. Clergy and laborers were expelled in 1834, so in an attempt to earn a living, someone from the monastery began selling pastries in the nearby general store which soon became extremely popular.
In 1837, the dessert’s productions took place in buildings attached to a sugar refinery which was also attached to the general store. The recipe was kept secret and only passed on to master confectioners who made the pastries away from prying eyes.
Though, at the time, Belém was a little far from Lisbon’s center, the grandeur of the monastery and other nearby attractions attracted visitor’s who then became accustomed to the delicious pastries. Word spread back to Lisbon and Pasteis de Belém was born!
Today, word has not only spread to Lisbon, but throughout the world! As we approached, we noticed a long line waiting to enter the restaurant’s doors alongside the beautiful tile work that advertises the name and year of the establishment. Taking our place in line, we were finally seated about twenty minutes later.
The walls were decorated in the traditional blue and white tiles seen throughout Portugal and the ceiling was embellished with elaborate millwork. There were many tables scattered throughout various rooms, causing the waiters to skillfully slide between them while balancing plates and trays of drinks.
Pastéis de Belém menuFront part of restaurant for take-outRestaurant decor
It didn’t take long to place our order or receive it and we learned that the menu not only offered the famous desserts but other tasty treats such as Bolo Inglês, Marmelada, Sortido, Salgados as well as coffees and other drinks.
As expected, everything was delicious but there was not much time to linger and rest. Tables were needed to accommodate those who were now waiting in that very long line!
And we had other things to see in Belém…now that our bellies were full and our sweet tooth was satisfied!
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Address: Rua de Belém nº 84 a 92, 1300 – 085 Lisboa, Portugal
Hours: daily, 0800-2000. Closure at 2200 from June 1 – October 15. On December 24, 25, 31 and January 1, closure at 1900.
Admission: free, prices for food and drink items vary
Getting There: Train, Line 19001 from Cais Do Sodre station (7 minutes), Bus from Santos station (15 minutes), Tram, Pç. Figueira to Altinho (19 minutes), Uber (8 minutes).
So often have I visited Amsterdam over the years, that sometimes I need a bit of variety. Looking for a nice little day trip to get me away from the city I stumbled upon an article about the town of Hoorn, a city in the northern part of The Netherlands. The article had stated that Hoorn was one of the “Best Day Trips From Amsterdam”, so I thought, why not? Though it was early Fall, the sun was forecasted to be shining and it was going to be rather warm…the perfect day for some sightseeing!
Taking the train from Amsterdam’s Central Station, I thought I was doing the right thing when I arrived at the station and nabbed an earlier departure. I relaxed in my seat and readied for my hour-long trip. The train’s whistle sounded and the train began its departure from the city, while I began to watch my progress on Google maps. But wait! I was suddenly confused to see that the train heading northwesterly towards Alkmaar. It dawned on me that I made a major mistake by taking the earlier departure…this train was a local, not the express, so there I was, sightseeing in the Netherlands countryside for an extra half hour…a mistake I was sure to not make on my return!
A bit beyond my anticipated arrival, we finally pulled into the Hoorn station and I made my way past canals, flowers and quaint homes, much like I have seen in other parts of the country. I had planned a route that would take me though the center of the city and its churches, to the waterfront and to two of the city’s ancient gates.
Architecture of HoornArchitecture of HoornArchitecture of HoornArchitecture of HoornArchitecture of HoornArchitecture of HoornArchitecture of HoornArchitecture of Hoorn
The Grote Kerk, of which origins date back to medieval times, was my first stop, but unfortunately, I found it to be under construction and not open to the public. This structure is the third to be built on the site and dates back to 1883. While I was not allowed inside, I was able to admire its tower with its unadorned needle spire and clock from afar. I then continued on to the main square, hoping to visit the Roman Catholic church of Saint Cyriacus and Francis, popularly called the Dome Church.
Grote KerkGrote Kerk
Geez, were all of the churches undergoing construction???!!! Here, I found the façade of the Dome Church blocked with scaffolding, however, undeterred, I found the entrance and took a peek inside.
The Dome Church
The Dome Church, built in 1882, is still in use today and known for its amazing dome, stained glass and renowned artwork. A small chapel greeted me as I entered, however, the interior was partitioned off by a glass wall. While I would have loved to walk through towards the main altar so that I could appreciate the dome, the glass doors were locked. Still, I was grateful that I could see some of its interior from afar.
Upon my departure, I headed toward the main part of town, passing through the Kaasmarkt (main square) and the statue of Jan Pietersz Coen. Though the city’s streets were on the quiet side, I was not surprised to see a few other tourists congregating around this statue and dining in the outdoor restaurants that lined the square.
Statue of Jan Pietersz Coen
Kaasmarkt
Making my way towards the waterfront and marina, I found a paved pathway, which was perfect for exercise and just enjoying the beauty of the lake, Markermeer. As I followed the coast towards the small lighthouse at the end of the path, I took in the various artwork that lined the walkway. Designed by various artists, they comprised both modern and rustic elements. My favorite? “The Empty Coat” by Marion Jebbink.
“The Empty Coat” by Marion Jebbink
Eventually, my walk ended at the lighthouse, a small, basic wood-beam structure. It was not very picturesque, but it had given my walk a purpose and I had some good views of the Heritage Sailing Center and the Museum of the 20th Century.
Museum of the 20th CenturyHeritage Sailing Center
Heading back to where I had come, I then skirted the marina on the far side, making my way to the Hoofdtoren.
Views from the waterfrontBoats and houses along the Grashaven
The Hoofdtoren is a tower named after the nearby jetty Houten Hoofd and was constructed in 1532. While it acted as one of the last defenses of the city and located at the port, it now acts as a popular restaurant. Adjacent to the tower, on the quay wall, is a statue of the Ship Boys of Bontekoe from the book of the same name and it is a nice place to take in the beautiful old boats that fill the harbor.
Hoofdtoren
Hoofdtoren
Hoofdtoren
Boats in the VluchthavenBoats in the VluchthavenBoats along the Binnenhaven
A little further up the Oude Doelenkade, I crossed the Hoge Bruge, the iron drawbridge that crosses the Oude Haven and headed toward the Oosterkerk. Built in 1616, the church was originally a Roman Catholic temple used by fisherman and boat captains. After the Reformation, it became a Dutch Reformed Church and was known for its beautiful stained-glass windows but also for its organ, built in 1764 by Johann Heinrich Hartmann Batz…the only one that he built in North Holland. Today, decommissioned, the historic structure is a cultural center which hosts activities such as concerts, meetings, weddings and memorials.
Hoge Bruge Hoge Bruge
Oosterkerk
Oosterkerk
Oosterkerk
Sadly, it wasn’t really my day for churches…I found this one locked up as well…
Kleine Oostbrug
Finally, crossing the Kleine Oostbrug, I made it to the edge of the city center and the Oosterpoort, the city’s only remaining gate, built in 1578. Located on the Draafsingel, a remnant of the original defensive canal, the Oosterpoort bridge runs under the gate, giving pedestrians and cyclists a pathway across the waterway. While it serves a practical purpose, it definitely gives visitors a look into the city’s history and a place for stunning photos.
Oosterpoort
Oosterpoortbridge Oosterpoort Oosterpoort
As the day was coming to a close, I wound my way back through the city, crossing the pedestrian bridge, Kippebruggetje, enroute to the train station. I had enjoyed my outing in the beautiful little city of Hoorn, but shadows were now creeping in, signaling the day’s end. I wanted to make sure that I caught my train back to Amsterdam.
Portugal is one of those places that you just can’t get enough of. Of course, that being said, your legs and feet might tire quickly of the multitude of stairs and elevations that comes with climbing throughout hilly cities like Lisbon and Sintra!
One day, I decided that I needed some sea-level sight-seeing. A friend was in the nearby coastal community of Cascais perfecting his Portuguese in one of the local schools and I made a plan to take the train for a quick visit.
After working all night, a nap was desperately needed, so I texted him that I would take the three o’clock train. Of course, my Uber ride to the station was delayed by traffic so my departure was about twenty minutes later, but still, daylight hours are plentiful in late May and we would have time to do a quick tour of the town.
Train between Lisbon and Cascais
Forty minutes later, after some beautiful coastal scenery, I was waving to Dave as I exited the train. There were some items of particular interest that I wanted to explore on my own and had planned to meet Dave a little later (so as not to bore him), but he insisted that he would be my tour guide so that I would not miss anything!
Setting off from the station, Dave and I began our trek on the cobbled streets of Cascais, passing colorful buildings, patterned walkways and stunning architecture underneath a dazzling blue sky. Boats bobbed on the water, sunbathers lounged lazily on the Praia da Rebeira and residents and visitors were out in full force exercising and enjoying the beauty and warmth of the afternoon.
The sights and architecture of CascaisThe sights and architecture of Cascais
First, we encountered 5th of October Square, the heart of Cascais, of which the name comes from the revolution in 1910, when the monarchy was abolished in Portugal. This square boasts the traditional black and white calçada, wave-patterned pavement, which can be seen throughout the city, as well as the Old Town Hall and the statue of Dom Pedro I, King of 14th century Portugal.
5th of October Square
Moving on, we found Nossa Senhora Da Assunção (Our Lady of the Assumption Cathedral). Dave was not sure of its opening hours, however, we were lucky enough to find the doors open. This church was originally built in the 1500s on the site of a Visigothic necropolis. Damaged by the 1755 earthquake, it was restored and remains the main church of Cascais.
Nossa Senhora Da Assunção
Inside the single-nave church, we were greeted by a barrel-vaulted ceiling centered with a image created by José Malhoa of Our Lady of the Assumption and original blue tile panels that were added from 1720 to 1748, depicting scenes of the life of the Virgin, which thankfully, survived the earthquake’s fury.
Nossa Senhora Da Assunção Nossa Senhora Da Assunção Nossa Senhora Da Assunção
The gilded-wooden main altar at the far end was remarkably detailed as well as the side chapels designed in the same style. On the upper walls, there were a number of 17th century paintings, some by Josefa d’Obidos, one of Portugal’s most prolific painters and one of the few female artists in the world at the time. The baptistry also contained some traditional tilework in the Portuguese style.
Nossa Senhora Da Assunção
While the cathedral wasn’t a large one, it’s impressive interior was worth visiting and we were glad that we had encountered it unlocked, as we learned later that it usually only opens for services.
As we circled the building, we found a statue of Pope John Paul II, which was unveiled in 2010 as a tribute to the much loved Pope by the city. The life-sized statue depicts the Pope bestowing a blessing and holding a staff and was designed by artist Alves André.
Statue of Pope John Paul II
A short walk from the cathedral, we found the entrance to the Citadel of Cascais which was built between the 15th and 17th centuries to defend the coastline and to protect attacks on the capital city, Lisbon, by the English. By the 19th century, however, King Luis I of Portugal ordered it to become a place of rest and retreat for the royal family. As the royal family spent the months of September and October in the city, it grew and attracted other affluent people who also desired to spend their summers there. Electricity was installed in the late 1800s and in 1977, the complex was restored and classified as a Property of Public Interest.
Citadel of Cascais
While I expected the traditional architecture of a fortification, I wasn’t quite expecting what lay inside. Normally, I would think to find cannons and war memorabilia, however, the Citadel now boasts an Arts Center and a hotel built into one of its buildings. There were some interesting pieces of modern art scattered throughout the premises as well as the traditional patterned pavement, blending old with the new.
Citadel of CascaisCitadel of CascaisCitadel of Cascais
A little further down Avenida R. Humberto II de Italia, we discovered the 17th century Chapel São Sabastião on the grounds of the Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães and Marechal Carmona Park. The chapel is closed to the public, but we learned that its interior’s walls are lined with traditional painted tile images of Saint Sebastian’s life and his deeds as a saint. The chapel is maintained by the Dominican fathers, who hold religious services in English every Sunday, and it is a popular location for weddings and baptisms.
Chapel São Sabastião Chapel São Sabastião
Walking a short distance, we checked out the grounds of the museum, posing alongside the painted tile fountain and checked out its cloister. Its décor was extremely detailed, yet eclectic, and while we were curious about its interior and history, we did not have time to include it in our visit. What we did learn, however, was that it was originally known as the Torre de São Sebastião (St. Sebastian’s Tower) and was built in 1900 as an aristocrat’s summer residence. It became a museum in 1931 and includes significant national and international paintings, furniture, porcelain, jewelry and a neo-Gothic organ.
Marechal Carmona Park
Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães
While what we had seen so far of the building’s exterior was stunning, it wasn’t until we continued on Avenida Rei Humberto II de Italia that we realized its most striking feature…the tower, with its base jutting out into a small cove. There are several gargoyles, protruding eaves and porches and it sits alongside a small beach and the waterway that passes underneath the road. And to the tower’s yin, there was its yang sitting across the road on the coast…the lofty Santa Maria Lighthouse, adjacent to Casa Santa Maria, a perfect example of a Portuguese house.
Torre de São Sebastião Santa Maria Lighthouse
As if this scenery wasn’t spectacular enough, a little further up the road, we encountered a pathway leading to the natural bridge, Boca do Inferno, formed by the erosion of rock from the pounding of the waves beneath. There were a few restaurants here, some street performers and a building with a few vendors. It was a nice place to regroup for our walk back to town.
Boca do Inferno
Street performer at Boca do Inferno
Dave and I were walking along, back to town, conversing about work. Since our job is so unique, sometimes people can discern what we do just from the terms we use. All of a sudden, a couple sidled up along side of us and asked us if we were flight attendants. After a short conversation, amazingly enough, they knew someone who had worked for our company and had retired in Cascais! They tried calling her to meet us, unsuccessfully, however, but they continued to walk with us back toward town.
Next thing you know, we were accepting an invitation to have drinks at their charming apartment in the center of town! Since Dave is planning to possibly retire there one day, it was a convenient meeting and the makings of a new friendship!
Unfortunately for me, despite the wonderful company, I had to bid my adieu to my old friend Dave and our new friends to make my train back to Lisbon. Missing out on dinner with this amazing group was unfortunate, but dinner plans with some of my crewmembers was approaching.
Now that I know how beautiful Cascais is, however, I will most definitely be making my way there again in the future…especially when Dave will be there! It pays to have friends in foreign places!
Cascais Coast
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Address: Avª. Rei Humberto II de Itália, 2750-319 Cascais
Hours: Closed Monday. Tuesday-Friday, 1000-1700, Saturday and Sunday, 1000-1300 and 1400-1700.
Admission: €5.00, Cascais Cultural Center/House of Stories Paula Rego/Santa Maria House/Lighthouse Santa Marta Museum. €4.00, Condes Castro Guimarães Museum.€3.00, King D. Carlos Sea Museum/Museum of Portuguese Music/Fort of S. Jorge de Oitavos. €1.00, Casa Duarte Pinto Coelho. Daily ticket to visit all facilities valid for 1 day, €13.00. Senior tickets, students and Cascais residents, 50% discount on the entrance ticket. Free first Sunday of each month.
The Scaliger family (also known as Della Scala or Saligieri) of Verona was an influential one from the 13th to 14th century, ruling during this time period.
The family rose to prominence during the 11th century with their founder, Masstino I della Scala becoming the chief magistrate after the defeat and death of Ezzelino da Romano, a tyrant of Verona, in 1277. Succeeded by his brother Alberto and subsequently by Alberto’s son, Bartolomeo, it was during the latter’s reign that, according to tradition, Romeo and Juliet fell in love and died.
With such prestige in life, it is expected that in death, the members of this family would also be celebrated and entombed extravagantly so that others could pay homage for many centuries.
In many cultures, cemeteries exist so that the living can pay their respects to the dead. The Italian one is no exception, however, while some gravesites that Americans are familiar with are simple headstones, prominent families in Italy are entombed in elaborate mausoleums. These mausoleums of the Scaligeri are fine examples of the artistic talents put to use to show the wealth and power that the family held.
In Verona, the Scaliger tombs stand in the courtyard of the Church of Santa Maria Antica, which dates to 1185. While I was not sure what I was enroute to see, after spotting it on Google Maps a few blocks from Juliet’s House, it was certainly a landmark that I was glad that I had sought out. To say that the Scaliger tombs are elaborate would be an understatement!
Enclosed by an iron fence, it is easy for passersby to examine the tombs from afar. I assure you, however, it is worth the minimal entrance fee to enter the premises and see these monumental burial chambers up close and personal.
Entrance to the Scaligeri Tombs (doorway, left) and Santa Maria Antica (doorway, right)
Adjacent to the Piazza dei Signori, the historic central square of Verona’s Città Antica and other major attractions, the memorials invite visitors to understand the idea of the wealth and power of the Lords of Verona. While the funerary monuments are not plentiful, they are indeed breathtaking examples of Gothic art.
A handout, given to me by caretakers who also accepted my entrance fee, directed me around the small courtyard and I inspected each of the tombs which are located on the ground or on raised floors.
The tomb of Cangrande I Della Scala is placed above the portal of the church and is the first of the tombs that was built in the 14th century by his own will. The tomb is comprised of a tabernacle supported by embellished dogs and on the lid is the reclining statue of the deceased. The sides are decorated and on the top of the canopy, there is a copy of the equestrian statue of Cangrande I (the original is kept in the Castelvecchio Museum along with the funerary equipment).
Tomb of Cangrande I Della Scala
The ark of Mastino II, which was begun in 1345, had many design changes over the years. Originally painted and gilded, it is surrounded by a gate at the corners of which there are four statues of the Virtues. On the lid, there is a statue of Mastino II lying down and being watched over by two angels. There is an equestrian statue of Mastino II, a copy, of which the original being located in the Castelvecchio clock tower.
Theark of Mastino II
The ark of Cansignorio, which dates back to 1375, is the most elaborately decorated. Designed by Bonino da Campione, it depicts sculptures of warrior saints, characters from the Gospels, Virtues and Apostles and a large equestrian statue of Cansignorio.
The ark of Cansignorio
The sarcophagus of Albert I is a richly carved monument, constructed in 1301.
The sarcophagus of Albert ITomb of Bartolomeo ITomb of Alboino
The tomb of Mastino I is the oldest.
Tomb of Mastino I
The hanging ark by Giovanni della Scala is a work by Andriolo de Santi. It was finished in 1359 at the church of S. Fermo Maggiore, where it remained until 1400.
The hanging ark by Giovanni della Scala
This sarcophogi is the most ornamented in the lot. It was possibly commissioned by Alberto I in 1300 and might have been the first burial site for Cangrande.
Possibly the first burial site of Cangrande
After my inspection of the tombs was complete, I found the Church of Santa Maria Antica to be open on this day. This small church was originally linked with a convent founded in 744-745. In the 1200s, it became the private chapel of the Scaligeri family who then erected their famous sepulchre alongside the structure.
The Church ofSanta Maria Antica
Wandering in, I donned a shoulder covering given to me by one of the volunteers. The modest sanctuary was dimly lit and quiet and it didn’t appear that photographs were appreciated by the woman keeping a sharp eye on the visitors. While I was able to capture a couple undetected, as I was inspecting the 14th century frescoes in the central nave, I took a moment to nod my head in prayer before departing.
Santa Maria AnticaSanta Maria Antica
There were many places that I visited on my brief trip to Verona. It was interesting to realize, in retrospect, that so many of the places I had visited, had connections to the others. The Castelvecchio Museum contained some of original pieces of the Scaligeri tombs, which I had unknowingly inspected on my visit there earlier in the day, and later on, I had visited San Fermo Maggiore church which had held the hanging ark by Giovanni della Scala for many years. I had not known all of this prior to my visit, but only later, when doing some research.
While not a lengthy visit, take a few minutes to visit the Scaligeri tombs to comprehend the beauty and history of these funerary monuments and seek out their significance in the other landmarks of Verona.
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While visiting Venice is an amazing experience, after having been there many times, one gets the itch to see other cities in the region. Having already taken the train to Padua a few years prior, I was planning on seeing some other nearby cities. On this particular day, however, realizing that we had arrived a little earlier than normal, I decided to venture out a little further…to Verona.
Verona is one of the main tourist destinations in northern Italy, situated on the Adige River and known as the setting for two of William Shakespeare’s plays, Romeo and Juliet and The Two Gentlemen of Verona. Because of its artistic heritage and opera season staged in its Roman amphitheater, it attracts millions of visitors each year.
Ruled by the della Scala family during the 13th and 14th century, the city was extremely prosperous during their reign and this wealth can be spied throughout its boundaries today; in its monuments, walls and architecture and more. While I was aware that many tourists head straight to Juliet’s House and Museum, one of the most famous places in the city, I decided to do this as well, but also to see the other aspects that make this UNESCO World Heritage Site so special.
After the hour and ten minute train ride, I quickly ducked into a station shop to purchase a face mask for the return trip or for any other attraction which might require it. During my train ride, I had realized that KN95 face masks were still required on public transportation when conductors removed five British travelers at the stop prior to Verona’s Porta Nuova station. While I had a regular surgical mask, I realized that it was not enough and was thankful that I went unnoticed.
Verona Train Station
Thankful that crisis had been averted, I set out to walk to the city center, first stopping at the Porta Nuova (https://snappingtheglobe.com/?p=30718), the city’s old gate. Stopping for a few photos, I then continued on Corso Porta Nuova past Giardini Pradaval and its sculptures and statues, the Lapidary Museum Maffeiano and I Portoni della Bra the historic gate that once divided the city from the countryside and connects the Porta Nuova railway station to Piazza Bra. While I felt welcomed by the city gate Porta Nuova, it was when I walked through the arches of I Portoni della Bra that I felt as though I was truly entering the city and readied myself for the city’s beauty.
Porta Nuova GateGiardini PradavalLapidary Museum Maffeiano
I Portoni della Bra
I Portoni della Bra
Having planned to see the amphitheater, I decided to take a detour and walk toward the river and the Castelvecchio Museum, since its opening hours were fewer. Making my way across its intimidating drawbridge into the courtyard, I then headed inside to make my way through its major Italian art collections distributed over twenty-nine rooms. Sculpture, paintings, ancient weapons, ceramics, goldsmiths, miniatures and ancient city bells were artfully displayed throughout the castle which dates back to the mid 1300s. While it was built as a residence for the della Scala family, it was mainly used for the military defense of the city and that is evident by its towering walls and battlements.
Castelvecchio Exterior
Castelvecchio Entrance
While I enjoyed my walk through the castle’s interior, what I really wanted to do was investigate the courtyards, the battlements and the clock tower. Climbing up the stairway, I made my way first to the rear of the castle and was rewarded with stunning views of the river and the Scaligero Bridge. It was a beautiful day and being out on the walls was the perfect place to be! Some of the passageways were a bit narrow but easy to navigate and to reach the seven towers. From the front of the castle, the views of the city, the large courtyard, the clock tower and the small courtyard beneath the tower were so stunning that I could have stayed up there all day. Finally, I passed through the adjacent walkway to the bridge and took a quick stroll across so that I could say “I did”.
Scaligero Bridge
If I was going to see everything, however, it was time to move on and I decided to continue my path along the Corso Cavour, which follows the river. A short stroll later, I passed the Arco dei Gavi, a massive, ancient white-marble arch which was was used as a gate in the walls during the Middle Ages. During the Napoleonic rule, French engineers demolished it and its ruins were moved to a square and then to the arena. In 1932, the arch was reconstructed, under Mussolini’s rule, in its current spot next to the Castelvecchio, very near its original location.
Arco dei Gavi
A little further down the road, I happened upon the Basilica di San Lorenzo. As I always make time for a church, I spent a few moments walking through this 12th structure. Built in the Romanesque style on the remains of a 5th or 6th century paleo-Christian building, using some of the original materials, it was interesting to see the two different types of building materials stemming from the different phases of construction…alternating brick and stone which gives the interior a striking pattern of strips in the columns and the walls and apse. Listening in to a tour guide’s spiel, I also learned that a unique feature is the presence of the women’s galleries, still intact and open onto three sides. Though my stop was a quick one, I was glad to see this beautiful church.
Chiesa di San LorenzoChiesa di San LorenzoChiesa di San LorenzoExteriorChiesa di San LorenzoChiesa di San LorenzoChiesa di San Lorenzo
Near the Ponte della Vittoria, I decided to move into the city center as there was more to see in that domain. A few minutes later, I passed under the impressive Porta Borsari, the arched limestone gate, which dates back to the 1st century and served as the main entrance to the city.
Porta Borsari
There were many more churches, including the Church of St. Eufemia; some open, some closed for the afternoon, and as I spied many balconies, I thought of Juliet’s House, which I had planned to visit…whenever I got there! But of course, there was so much to see along the way!
Other churches in Verona
Glancing at my watch, I decided to snatch a few moments at the Church of San Giovanni in Foro. A minor church, it was built on what was the main Roman road. Badly damaged by fire in 1172, while much of Verona was destroyed, its restoration in the early 1900s led to the discovery that Roman walls had been incorporated into the external walls of the church. It was small and dimly lit, but its beautiful mosaics, stone walls and ancient paintings made me glad that I had stumbled upon this gem.
Church of San Giovanni in Foro
Church of San Giovanni in Foro
Continuing on, I finally made my way to the beautiful Piazza delle Erbe, which was once the center of the city’s political and economic life. There were many market stalls hawking souvenirs and food, but there were lots of statues, fountains and other landmarks to see. More importantly, the square is surrounded by many buildings and monuments that have marked the history of Verona…City Hall, Lamberti Tower, the Houses of Mazzanti, Maffei Palace, the Gardello Tower and the Casa dei Mercanti (Merchant’s House). What I loved most, however, was the ancient fountain (circa 1368) with its roman statue, Madonna Verona, built by Bonino da Campione, which stands proudly in the center of the square and welcomes visitors to investigate its history.
Piazza delle ErbePiazza delle ErbePiazza delle ErbeMadonna VeronaPiazza delle Erbe
My goodness…what wasn’t there to see? I love everything about Rome and its “in your face architecture”, but the simplicity of Verona with the minor details that begged you to slow down and savor it was unlike anything I had ever experienced in Italy. Everywhere I laid my eyes, there was stunning construction, architectural details on every building, including balconies upon which other Italian ladies, like the fictional Juliet, may have stood, conversing down to their young paramours.
Finding my way to the Scaliger Tombs, I decided that I needed to enter the premises so that I could see these stunning tombs at close range. After paying my entrance fee, I was given a handout to guide me through the small courtyard. Each of the elaborate tombs were unique and some just outright ostentatious. While passerby could get a glimpse through the iron bars of all of the tombs, I thought it much better to see their beauty unobstructed.
Scaliger Tombs
These five funerary monuments celebrate the Scaliger family who ruled in Verona from the 13th to the late 14th century. Located in a wrought-iron fenced enclosure of the church of Santa Maria Antica, these Gothic tombs were constructed for the wealthy members of the noble Scaliger dynasty who ruled as the Lords of Verona; Cangrande I, Mastino II, Cansignorio, Alberto II and Giovanni.
Scaliger Tombs Scaliger Tombs Scaliger Tombs
The church was open and I was given a covering for my shoulders as I entered. The modest sanctuary was dimly lit and quiet and it didn’t appear that photographs were appreciated by the woman keeping a sharp eye on the visitors. While I was able to capture a couple undetected, as I was inspecting the 14th century frescoes in the central nave, I took a moment to nod my head in prayer before leaving.
Santa Maria Antica
Finally, next on the list was the famed Juliet’s House, a short walk away. As expected, after walking through the short corridor to the courtyard, I found it extremely crowded with other visitors. Everyone was jockeying for position and waiting for their chance to pose with the bronze statue of Juliet. Noting the balcony above, and those also posing there for photographs, I figured out which door to enter to pay my admission.
Juliet’s House
Juliet’s House
Inside, there were statues paying homage to Shakespeare, another bronze statue of Juliet, period furniture and the bed and Renaissance costumes from Franco Zeffirelli’s 1968 film version of Romeo and Juliet. The wooden floors and artfully decorated ceilings were extremely cozy, although very roomy, depicting the wealth of the Capello family (from which the name Capulet was derived). Eventually, I was able to step out onto the balcony and also pose for a photo, but I was interested to find that even though the house dates back to 13th century, the balcony was only added during the 20th century.
Juliet’s HouseJuliet’s HouseJuliet’s House
On my way out, I noticed the red mailbox, which collects the letters “to Juliet” from visitors. Remembering the 2010 movie Letters to Juliet, I smiled at the messages visible in the small window in the center, glancing around, wondering where the women who volunteer to answer them were.
Just up the road, I happened upon Porta Leoni, the ancient gate that was built during the Roman Republic and features a double façade and two towers. Adjacent, below the street level are amazing Roman excavations.
Porta Leoni
The afternoon was dwindling away and although I had seen so much during my afternoon visit to Verona, I still wanted to see the amphitheater. Deciding to walk along the river in order to make navigation back to Corso Porta Nuova a little easier, I was stopped in my tracks by an imposing church on the corner.
Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore.
Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore
Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore
Oh, I was here and I couldn’t resist, so I went in, hoping I had enough time for everything else on my list…namely the amphitheater. The church was still open and I paid my admission, following the handout offered to me, which guided me to both the Upper and Lower churches.
Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore
Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore
Starting with the Lower church, I traversed the ancient staircase to reach the first and oldest cloister of the complex. Here, I marveled at the decorated ribbed vaults and frescoed columns which divided the space. Of particular note was the early 14th century fresco depicting the Virgin seated on a throne with baby Jesus and a 12th century fresco of the Baptism of Jesus. There is a tombstone of jurist Antonio Pelacani, who died in 1327, showing him teaching his students and another of scholar Master Omobono, built in 1330. In the presbytery, there is a wooden crucifix from the 14th century and in the right transept, the stone upon which saints Fermo and Rustico were beheaded.
Lower ChurchLower ChurchLower ChurchLower ChurchLower Church
Back upstairs in the Upper church, I found it to be a massive and towering space. Again, crumbling frescoes decorated the walls and a large wooden door was topped with a fresco of the Crucifixion of Christ. The single nave church contained five apses and of particular interest was the Della Torre altar, from the 18th century, Our Lady’s Chapel (1613), which contains a some significant paintings and the presbytery with its marble altar, created by Schiavi, on which the relics of Saints Fermo and Rustico are kept.
Upper ChurchUpper ChurchUpper ChurchUpper ChurchUpper ChurchUpper ChurchUpper Church
There were many tourists here and there was so much to see in the Upper Church that I spent much more time here than I had anticipated. As I finally exited San Fermo, I regained my routing along the river to head back toward the center of the city where the amphitheater was located. Taking much longer than I had anticipated, along with the heat of the afternoon slowing me down, I realized that I had maybe need to check the train schedule. I was still a ways from the train station and just over an hour away from Venice. As I realized that if I didn’t make the next train, I would be arriving into the Mestre station pretty late and I still needed to keep in mind dinner and the 20 minute walk back to my hotel. Upper ChurchThere were many tourists here and there was so much to see in the Upper Church that I spent much more time here than I had anticipated. As I finally exited San Fermo, I regained my routing along the river to head back toward the center of the city where the amphitheater was located. Taking much longer than I had anticipated, along with the heat of the afternoon slowing me down, I realized that I had maybe need to check the train schedule. I was still a ways from the train station and just over an hour away from Venice. As I realized that if I didn’t make the next train, I would be arriving into the Mestre station pretty late and I still needed to keep in mind dinner and the 20 minute walk back to my hotel.
Sadly, I had saved the amphitheater for last and it was not meant to be.
This time…
With so much to see in Verona, I was impressed with what I had undertaken and experience in a single afternoon. As there is much more enjoy in Verona, I realized that I would definitely return in the near future.
Pulling my KN95 mask from my bag…it was time to make that train.
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Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 1000 to1800. Last entrance at 1715. Closed Mondays, December 24, January 1.
Admission: Adults, €6.00 (+ €.60 online presale), Children (ages 8-14 years), €1.00 (+€.10 online presale). Free admission for residents of 65 years in the Municipality of Verona, persons with disabilities and their companion, children up to 7 years, holders of the VeronaCard.
Hours: Monday to Friday, 1100-1800, Saturday, 0930-1800, Sunday, 1300-1800
Admission: Single entry €4. Entry to four churches, San Fermo, San Zeno, Cathedral Complex and Santa Anastasia, Basilica of San Zeno, the Cathedral Complex, the Basilica of Santa Anastasia, €8
No matter where you go in Italy, you will find celebrated cities filled with stunning architecture, monumental landmarks and bustling piazzas. Some cities are mere blips on the map and others more well known.
Having stayed in Venice so often and walked its alleys, crossed its bridges and traversed its canals, I felt as though it was time to venture out further and see those nearby cities, a brief train ride away.
On a recent trip, we had arrived in Venice much earlier than usual. Deciding to take advantage of this early morning accession, I checked the train schedules and decided to make the hour long journey to Verona.
Having studied the city’s map, I learned that there was so much to this city than its ties to Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet and I decided that I was going to navigate its streets and landmarks on foot, so that I could take in every detail.
Arriving at the city’s main train station, Porta Nuova, I set out to make my way to Verona’s historical center. Following my GPS’s directions, the first thing I encountered was Porta Nuova… Yes, I had just departed the train station, Porta Nuova, but there was another.
Built between 1532 and 1540, the city gate of Porta Nuova was built under the direction of architect Michele Sanmicheli, replacing the ancient Porta di Santa Croce, with the sideways of the gate being added by the Austrians in 1854.
The gate was constructed to encourage access to the city and I thought it befitting that it was the first thing I encountered when seeking out the historical section of Verona. Only one of two remaining gates in the city, it offered entrance from the south and was an important element of the city’s fortifications.
While, the gates’ arched doorways were barred off, I was able to look inside, through the openings and inspect the surrounding premises. The facade’s details have been restored and the structure is topped with the Italian flags.
The stop at Porta Nuova was not one I had planned, but rather merely encountered on my route to other attractions in the city center. However, it was a beautifully restored and maintained architectural piece of Verona’s past and I was glad that it was there to welcome me as it had done to countless others over the centuries.
If there was more like this to come…I couldn’t wait to see what else was in store!
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Porta Nuova
Address: Corso Porta Nuova, 1, 37122 Verona VR, Italy
On the famed Île de la Cité, visitors are drawn to the magnificent stained glass windows of Sainte-Chapelle and the medieval French Gothic cathedral, Notre Dame. Yet, another historic structure, La Conciergerie, just next door to Sainte-Chapelle, is often overlooked!
But why? Perhaps the average tourist does not realize the significance of the building situated on the Boulevard du Palais, only wanting to check the boxes of the most famous landmarks in the City of Lights. Or, maybe…they simply do not allocate enough time for a building they may think is only a judicial one…not one that dates back to the 6th century and played an important role in the French Revolution.
Located within a fortified complex on the Île de la Cité, in the Seine River, the impressive medieval palace, was built as an historic Gothic dwelling to house the Kings of France, beginning with King Clovis. In 1200, King Philip II then made the Palais de la Cite the royal seat of power, remaining so until the 14th century. At this time, it then took on a judicial role as the Kings of France vacated to settle in at the Louvre and Chateau du Vincennes. As a Palace of Justice, it saw the addition of prison cells and became a royal prison, chancellery and seat of Parliament.
During the French Revolution of 1789 and the period of “The Terror” (1793-1795), the palace held and tried many political prisoners, but it is one that it is most famous for. It was in La Conciergerie that the ill-fated Queen Marie Antoinette was detained in captivity until her execution, along with 2700 others.
Marie Antoinette’s fate, a guillotined beheading, was similar to most prisoners who spent time at the converted cells within the palace walls. The word “conciergerie” is a French term meaning, “lodging of a housekeeper” as it was looked after by the person left in charge of the palace in the absence of the King and was known as one of the worst prisons of the period. Very few prisoners made it out alive, succumbing to illness, neglect or the blade of the guillotine.
While a majority of La Conciergerie’s square footage is dedicated to courthouses and administrative buildings, a most important historical part is open to the general public and has been transformed into a museum.
Façade of the Palais du Justice
Having purchased a combination ticket with Sainte-Chapelle, we proceeded directly to the entry point on Boulevard du Palais once our tour of the holy chapel was complete. Since La Conciergerie still operates as a government building, we were guided through a security complex so that we and our belongings could be searched and run through metal detectors before being allowed access to the premises.
Since there are no guided tours, we were given a small tablet to aid in our navigation of the premises. As we entered the museum, we first moved through the Grande Salle (Great Hall), a palatial space reminiscent of its royal status as home to the kings and then on to the lower level, La Salle des Gens D’Armes (Soldier’s Hall). This massive space once served as an enormous dining room for palace workers and accommodated royal banquets and other formal occasions within its impressive 210 foot long area, divided by grand columns and vaulted 28 foot ceilings.
La Salle des Gens D’Armes (Soldier’s Hall)
The corridor of cells allowed for the understanding of the former prisoners’ living conditions. These dark and narrow cells with no furnishings, were not a place of luxury. While we gazed upon clean floors and felt the neutral climate from modern heating and air conditioning, it was certain that this place was once overrun with rats and other vermin and that prisoners suffered from both heat and cold and slept on the floor. By stark contrast, we were also privy to the small prison warden offices, complete with period furniture and more conveniences as well as the cells outfitted for wealthier prisoners.
Prison cells of La ConciergerieWarden’s office
A mural that shows the names of some individuals victimized by the Reign of Terror and imprisoned or tried at the Conciergerie. Their names are printed in different colors depending on their punishments, with those executed by guillotine shown in red. Other plaques and historical displays throughout the museum portion of the visit recount the history of the Revolution and the Reign of Terror, led by the infamous Robespierre.
Mural of prisoners’ names
Museum displays and artifacts
Finally, we traversed the stairs to the site of the cell of Marie Antoinette. The queen was held in this cell during the final two months of her life during the Reign of Terror. Here, the sanctuary, Girodins’ Chapel, was originally a place of worship that was then converted to a collective cell during the Revolution. After the Revolution, the “Expiatory Chapel” was built to atone for the queen’s execution and pay tribute to her and other royal figures executed during that time period. Nestled in the back of the chapel, there is a shrine covered with black walls, covered in silver tears. Located at the supposed site of the queen’s bed, a faux marble altar is decorated with a text to honor her memory and the last letter from Marie-Antoinette to her sister-in-law, Madame Elisabeth. Period furnishings show how her cell may have been decorated as in contrast to the less wealthy prisoners; she was given a bed, furniture and servants. A detailed reconstruction of her cell is available for inspection.
Girodins’ Chapel
Girodins’ Chapel(rear)
Expiatory Chapel
Re-creation of Marie Antoinette’s cell
Just outside of Girodins’ Chapel is the garden in the women’s courtyard. Here, female prisoners were allowed to wash their clothes in the fountain, walk around, and eat outside, a nice perk not afforded to the male prisoners.
The Women’s Courtyard
La Conciergerie is not a large museum but an important one and we completed our tour in a short time span. If you find time to traverse the Île de la Cité or visit Notre Dame (when reopened) or Sainte-Chapelle, take an extra hour to tour this interesting piece of Paris’ significant history. It may not have the views of the Eiffel Tower or the artwork of the Louvre, but it will give an understanding of the French Revolution and Marie Antoinette’s last days. While it is not the only site where you might see an actual guillotine blade, it might be the one worth remembering.
Guillotine blade on display at La Conciergerie
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LaConciergerie
Address: 2 Boulevard du Palais, 75001 Paris
Hours: 0930-1800, daily. Closed December 25 and May 1.
Admission: Adults, €11.50 (US$ 12.60), Under 18 years and EU Citizens (18 – 25 years old), free entry, Persons with reduced mobility and accompanying person, free entry. Free entry with Paris Pass and Paris Museum Pass. Free entry on the first Sunday of the month from November to March. Combined ticket with Sainte-Chapelle, €18.50
Getting There: Metro, Cité, line 4. Bus, lines 21, 24, 27, 38, 58, 81 and 85.
Visiting Paris with my, then 13 year-old son, many years ago, we had mentally prepared a list of things that we wanted to do and experience…the Louvre, Notre Dame, Montmartre, the Sacre Coeur and of course, the Eiffel Tower. Naturally, we hoped to add more to our list as we happened upon it and that’s kind of what happened with Sainte-Chapelle.
While waiting to pay our admission at the Arc de Triomphe, we spotted a poster-style sign on the wall advertising Sainte-Chapelle. I had vaguely heard of it prior to this trip, but it really wasn’t a place that we had allotted time for in our schedule. My son, however, was transfixed with the photo of the vivid stained glass windows and insisted that we could go.
Time was limited, but after our visit to the Arc de Triomphe, we dashed to the Metro and made it to the Île de la Cité with a little time to spare. Securing our entry tickets, we walked into an architectural and chromatic dreamland.
While the Gothic-style itself was mesmerizing, it was those stained-glass windows that had captivated my son and drew us here that took our breath away.
Walking through the Sainte-Chapelle, we admired the vividness of the soaring apertures that fill in the upper walls of the space and the golden accents, comprehensive statues, architectural details, rich colors and brightly lit chandeliers hanging from the vaulted ceiling. Albeit a spontaneous decision, we had made the right one.
Last spring, remembering this experience so fondly and after having toured Chateau de Vincennes’ Sainte-Chapelle earlier in the year, I decided to return while on one of my Parisian layovers.
The walk across the bridge to the Île de la Citéand Saint-Chapelle
Booking a ticket online, I arrived at my appointed time and made my way through the security checkpoint, through the courtyard and into the royal chapel. Indeed, it was as beautiful as I remembered it.
Waiting to get in
Entrance
Upper Chapel
Constructed around 1238 and consecrated ten years later, this residence of the Kings of France until the 14th century, is considered one of the highest Gothic architectural achievements of its time. Built by King Louis IX of France, to house his collection of Passion relics, including the Crown of Thorns, it is also one of the earliest surviving buildings on the Île de la Cité. Though damaged during the French Revolution, it was restored and contains one of the most extensive 13th century stained glass collections in the world, with over two thirds of its original glass remaining.
While Sainte-Chapelle is no longer a church, having been secularized after the French Revolution, it is still considered a royal chapel inspired by earlier ones in the realm. This one, with its two levels, equal in size, offered a place (upper level) to house the sacred relics and was reserved for the royal family and their guests. The lower level was used by the courtiers, servants and soldiers of the palace. Its large size was comparable to many of the other Gothic cathedrals in France.
As I made my way through the upper chapel, what struck me most, as it did before, was that most of the walls are mostly constructed of pillars and buttresses and the spaces between are almost entirely glass. On a sunny day, the color is almost blinding with so many panes catching the light. On this day, however, it was quite gloomy outside, but even then, the windows showed off their magnificence.
Upper ChapelUpper Chapel
The upper chapel was filled with visitors, all gazing skyward and I followed the walls and windows in order, using the laminated card (available in a variety of languages) to decipher what was each window’s theme…the New Testament (featuring scenes of the Passion, the Infancy of Christ and the Life of John the Evangelist) and the Old Testament (featuring scenes from the Book of Genesis, Exodus, Joseph, Numbers/Leviticus, Joshua/Deuteronomy, Judges, Jeremian/Tobia, Judity/Job, Esther, David and the Book of Kings). Created by three different ateliers you can spot the contrasting styles used in the artist’s creations. And finally, I stood before the great rose window, at the rear of the chapel, created and installed in the late 15th century. This window, is composed of eighty-nine separate panels, representing scenes of the Apocalypse and uses a different technique, giving it a brighter look.
Upper Chapel, Rose Window
Upper Chapel, King/Queen Alcove, Middle
After I had made my way through the crowded space, paying particular attention to the two small alcoves set into the opposite walls where the King and Queen worshipped (King, north side, Queen, south side), I proceeded down the stairway to the lower chapel. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, it was heavily decorated with sculpture, columns, murals and the fleur-de-lis emblem of Louis IX, especially on its vaulted ceiling. Whereas the upper chapel soared to great heights, the lower chapel’s ceiling was only 22 feet high, although, still offering its own beautiful stained glass windows, depicting scenes from the Virgin’s life.
Lower ChapelLower ChapelLower ChapelLower Chapel
After my exit from the chapel’s interior, I took a few moments, despite the drizzling rain that had begun to fall, to walk around the exterior and admire its Gothic architectural components. Since visiting Notre Dame is currently not possible since its devastating fire in 2019, this is a stunning substitute on the Île de la Cité.
Sainte-Chapelle exterior
While there are other important “copies” of Sainte-Chapelle throughout the world (Karlstejn Castle, near Prague, Hofburgkapelle, Vienna, Collegiate Church of the Holy Cross and St. Bartholomew, Wroclaw, Poland and Exeter College, Oxford) and you can see some of the early stained glass that was removed at the Musee de Cluny in Paris and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, I can not imagine not seeing this one in person and I was glad for my son’s inquisitiveness and persuasive skills many years ago.
It is truly a masterpiece like no other that should be on the top of every Parisian visitor’s list.
For me, two visits down and many more to come.
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Address: Sainte-Chapelle, 10, boulevard du Palais 75001 Paris
Hours: April 1-September 30, 0900-1900, October 1-March 30, 0900-1700. Last admission, 40 minutes before closing. Closed May 1, December 25 and January 1. Visit by confirmed time slot booked online.
Admission: Adult, 11.50€, 18 year old and under, free, 18-25 year old (European Union), free. Combined ticket with Conciergerie, Adult, 18.50€, 18 year old and under, free, 18-25 year old (European Union), free.
Getting There: Metro 4, station Cité, RER B ou C, station Saint-Michel, Métro 1,7,11, 14, station Châtelet. By Bus, Lines 21, 24, 27, 38, 58, 81, 85, 96 et Balabus, Stations Vélib’ à proximité.
For many years, it seemed like I visited Tel Aviv almost every month. Over time, however, I have decided to work shorter flights which suit my schedule a little bit better by not having the two night flights that Tel Aviv has.
When someone reached out to me in April, however, and wanted to swap two of my Rome trips for her Tel Aviv, it benefited me to take the swap and have the weekend that I was supposed to work off. Sounded like a good idea…and it was! I was excited to revisit the Mediterranean city to see some favorites and discover some new things!
Despite it being a holiday when we arrived, and finding everything closed, the next day was business as usual. After grabbing some falafel at my favorite place, I decided that I was going to get a lot of steps in, first heading to the Carmel Market.
Carmel Market
Carmel Market
The largest market in Tel Aviv was first opened in 1920, approximately eleven years after the establishment of the city. Located on one street which runs south from the junction of King George Street, Allenby and Sheinkin Street to the Carmelit Bus depot, it always hosts a bustling crowd, especially on Thursdays and Fridays, when locals are making their purchases for their family meals. Visitors should not be intimidated by the locals going about their business as the market also attracts tourists wishing to experience the sights, sounds and of course smells of the freshest fruit and vegetables, spices and other delectables in addition to those hoping to find unique souvenirs and clothing. I have always loved coming here, usually to purchase my olive oil but just for the overall experience!
Carmel Market
Spices in the Carmel Market
Carmel Market
Carmel Market Carmel MarketCarmel Market
On this day, however, I realized my mistake. Wanting to take a walk to the Old City of Jaffa, I could not purchase my olive oil as I would have to backtrack to my hotel to drop it off or carry the heavy purchase on this journey. Assuming I would have time later to return, I proceeded on to the second leg of my adventure.
To get to the Old City of Jaffa, it is about a thirty-seven minute walk and I decided that I would do it along the waterfront to enjoy the sights and smells of the sea. It was a beautiful April day and I was so thankful to be able to have the time to enjoy the lovely sunshine. It wasn’t long before I passed Charles Clore Park and the Haetzel Betashach Museum which focuses on the history of Etzel, the Hebrew acronym for the National Military Organization (one of the military groups who led the struggle for Israel’s independence). Only pausing to take a few photos of the outside of the museum, I continued on my way quickly arriving at landmark which marks the entrance to the ancient port city.
Haetzel Betashach Museum
The Jaffa Clocktower.
Standing in the middle of the north end of Yefet Street, the limestone tower incorporates two clocks and a plaque commemorating the Israelis killed in the battle for the town in the 1948 Arab-Israeli War. It is one of seven clock towers built in Ottoman Palestine…only one of six that remain.
There was plenty of unique art and architecture to see along the way, but I was determined to make my way through the HaMuze’on Garden, past the Jaffa Theatre and to the Kdumim Visitor Center Square. St. Peter’s Church was on my list, however, I arrived to realize that I was between opening hours. Since it would require waiting for its reopening in a couple of hours, I decided to spend my time re-exploring the old port and seeking out some things in the nearby area.
HaMuze’on Garden
Tiroche Amphitheater
Walking through the square, I made my way to the stairs leading through the garden and to the Wishing Bridge. I remember seeing this bridge a long time ago, but I had forgotten its meaning. I read the sign, “An ancient legend holds that anyone boarding the bridge holds the zodiac sign and looks at the sea – their wish will come true.” Naturally, I had lots of wishes, so I walked along the wooden walkway, studying each of the aged bronze zodiac signs that wrapped around its rails. Placing my hand on the Lion, Leo, I looked out to the sea and made my wish…wishes…hopefully it counted for more than one!
Kdumim SquareKdumim Square
The Wishing Bridge
The Wishing Bridge (as viewed from below)The Wishing BridgeThe Wishing Bridge
Walking through the gardens, I appreciated the lush greenery, beautiful flora and sculptural works that filled the landscape. Eventually, I found the other notable item that I had come to see. The replica of ancient Egyptian Ramesses II gate. Without knowing the background, it seems rather unremarkable (and too new), but as I stood there taking photos, a gentleman asked me me what I knew of it. Such began a conversation with a local tour guide Haim Tamari. Mr. Tamari informed me that this replica supplants the original 13th century gate that was discovered in this spot and dates from the period of the rule of Ramesses II. The inscription on one of the gates includes on of the many honorific titles of Ramesses II. Work had recently been completed on the paved and hardscaped area around the gate.
Ramesses II gate
Mr. Tamari and I walked together back to the square as the hour was approaching of the opening of the church. We talked of the history of the area and of my past visits to many parts of the country. Realizing that I was expecting a visit to St. Peter’s he continued on with his dialogue, expanding to the history of the church. He explained that this church was completed in 1894 but was preceded by another from the 16th century which was constructed as a church and inn for pilgrims on the ruins of an earlier temple. It was constructed here because it was in Jaffa that St. Peter raised Tabitha (one of Jesus’ disciples) from the dead (Acts of the Apostles, Acts 9:36-43, Acts 10:1-4) and it is dedicated to him. The church, facing west toward the sea, instead of east (like most churches) was situated on a hill serving as a beacon to pilgrims, signaling that the Holy Land was near.
St. Peter’s Church
Tel Aviv view from St. Peter’s
Thankful that I now had a knowledgeable contact for future tours, I thanked him for sharing his company, conviviality and knowledge. He continued on to an appointment, bidding me a farewell and I took a seat outside the church’s iron gates, tall, brick façade and towering bell tower.
At three o’clock, the doors were opened and I and others who had also congregated at its opening, were ushered inside. As I made my way past each of the side altars, I took in the overall appearance of the church, with its dominant pastel-colored vaulted ceiling, stained glass and ochre marble walls. Taking a seat in one of the pews, I bent my head in prayer only to be distracted and then mesmerized by the pulpit, carved in the shape of a tree. As a tour group made their way inside, I listened as their leader spoke of its history, including an interesting tidbit about Napoleon, who was said to have lived in one of rooms of St. Louis’ citadel just outside and to the right of the sacristy while he was at St. Peter’s in 1799 during the French campaign in Egypt and Syria.
St. Peter’s Church
St. Peter’s Church
St. Peter’s Church St. Peter’s Church
Finally, my visit to St. Peter’s complete, I exited and made my way through the stairways, alleyways and tunnels of Jaffa toward its port. Walking along the water’s edge, I passed cafes, studios, restaurants and mosques, reminding me that this was a city of more than one faith.
Old Jaffa
Old Jaffa Port
The Sea Mosque (where the city’s Muslim sailors and fisherman prayed before going to sea)
After such a long day, it was time to start the long walk back to my hotel. Arriving almost an hour later, with aching feet, I realized that it was time to grab that nap for the dreaded overnight flight home. Reflecting on my cultural and historically filled day, I realized that I had been missing out on the amazing opportunities that Tel Aviv affords for the lack of sleep. Yes, despite the nap I was getting ready to take, it was going to be a long night home…but definitely worth it.
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe, and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Address: HaCarmel Street 48, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel
Hours: Summer, Sunday-Thursday, 0700-evening (closing begins around 1800), Friday, 0700-afternoon (closing begins two hours before Shabbat comes in). Winter, Sunday-Thursday, 0700-evening (closing begins around 1600), Friday, 0700-afternoon (two hours before Shabbat comes in).
Heading so far south into New Mexico had me wondering if we had made the right decision going so far out of our way. But, I was told we couldn’t miss one of the state’s natural wonders…
Carlsbad Caverns.
As we headed farther south, we noticed fields of oil wells pumping out their liquid gold, so it was no surprise upon our arrival that many of the hotels, ours included, catered to long-term guests in the petroleum industry. This meant, however, that we were able to secure a larger room with a kitchen and an early breakfast in the morning as many of these workers make these hotels their home away from home.
Since Carlsbad Caverns was located about 20 miles southwest of the city center, we were packed up and grabbing a bite to eat with the oil field workers so that we could make our arrival before the opening of the Visitor’s Center. Even though it wasn’t yet the height of tourist season, we anticipated a large number of visitors and wanted to be one of the first in line since we had only half a day to experience the caverns and then make it to our next destination, over three hours away.
Winding our way up to the Visitor’s Center, we secured a parking spot and found ourselves fifth in line. As anticipated, by the time the doors were unlocked, a line snaked to the parking lot behind us. Using our America the Beautiful Pass for admission, we also signed up and paid for the ranger-led tour of the King’s Palace, a part of the caverns off limits except when accompanied by park personnel. We also opted to hike to the cavern entrance instead of taking the elevators. At the time, I really did not have an opinion about either, however, being accompanied by my son, he insisted that we hike, a decision I would later appreciate.
Since we were told we were unable to enter the cavern for another half hour, we spent some time inspecting the museum exhibits. As the appointed time neared, we all gathered near the door, expecting a ranger to come over and unlock it or have it magically swing open. When this didn’t happen, we all paced and glanced at our watches, thinking that our precious time in the cavern was dwindling. Eventually, my son tried the door, finding it unlocked! Yes, we were unable to go to the cavern until 0830, however, we all could have walked the trail to the starting point! What do they say about sheep and the cliff?
When we reached the gathering point, a ranger greeted us and gave us some important information about our trek. From here, we would walk to the cavern entrance a short distance away and after our visit, we could either hike back out or take the elevator back to the Visitor’s Center.
And so it began.
As we started our walk, we soon saw the giant, dark, gaping maw that was the access to the caverns. Much larger than I ever anticipated, I watched the bats circling near and from the entrance as we walked back and forth along the hairpin trail into the abyss. One thing we had learned from the ranger was that during the evening, the park hosts its nightly Bat Program which allows visitors to experience the wonder of thousands of bats flying out of the cavern and into the night sky (April to October) from the amphitheater at sunset. With regret, we wished that we had known of this event so that we could have journeyed here the night before. On this day, however, we would have to be content to watch the bats flying to and fro above our heads.
Cold and damp, we were glad that we had opted to don pants and pullovers and of course sneakers for the loose gravel and dirt path. Into the darkness, we proceeded, following the 1.25 mile Natural Entrance Trail and the occasional sign directing us to specific items to note. Extremely steep, we lost about 750 feet…equivalent to walking up or down a 75-story building…for about an hour.
As we made our way, we reflected on the fact that this was what sixteen-year old Jim White first experienced in 1898 when he stumbled upon one of the largest cave systems in the world, Carlsbad Caverns. Here, while we had explicitly placed lighting, well-maintained trails and a cafeteria a short distance away, he had explored with homemade torches, string to find his way back, food and water.
Little by little, he and a friend mapped the enormous caving system, naming each of the areas with monikers of what it reminded him of. Whale’s Mouth, with its draperies and flowstone, The Green Lake Room for its, yes, green lake, The Lion’s Tail for its stalactite and popcorn and the Temple of the Sun with its tall columns, stalactites and stalagmites.
Whale’s MouthOld Staircase
Finally, we approached the Big Room. Glancing at our watches, we had a decision to make…head left toward the cafeteria to await our tour of the King’s Palace or keep going a short distance and then return the way we had come at our tour’s appointed time. Opting for the second choice, we continued through the impressive large limestone chamber, which is almost 4,000 feet long, 625 feet wide and 255 feet tall at its highest point. The fifth largest chamber in North America, it is also the twenty-eighth largest in the world. Following the snaking loop trail, we skirted thousands of rock formations, delicate sculptures, columns, cave bacon and popcorn, tubes, spires, fossils, ribbons, drapes, curtains, stalagmites, helictites, stalactites, totem poles, flowstone, soda straws and more all in the 357,469 square feet of the Big Room. As mesmerized as we were, we had to turn back to meet our guide, however, we knew that we would come this way again, shortly.
Gathering in the cafeteria area (which was not in operation at the time), we joined about thirty other visitors and our ranger for what was to be a one and a half hour, 1 mile guided tour through four highly decorated cave chambers into the deepest portion of the cavern…830 feet beneath the earth’s surface.
Following our ranger down an 80 foot descent, we marveled at the details and rooms for which Jim White had named the King’s Palace for its opulence. Listening to stories about the cave’s geology and early explorer’s experiences, we made our way through the first of the four chambers known as the scenic rooms, which contains a spectacular large castle-like formation in the center of the 100-foot tall expanse.
King’s Chamber
Continuing on to the Papoose Room, located between the King’s Palace and the Queen’s Chamber, we entered a small room which was similar in context to the King’s Palace. Hundreds of impressive stalactites clung from the ceiling and stalagmites sprouted from the ground.
Papoose Room
Next was the Queen’s Chamber, considered the most beautiful of the four scenic caves, with its highlight being the 40-foot tall floor to ceiling drapery column and the delicate formations resembling lace and filigree.
Queen’s Drapery ColumnQueen’s Chamber
Finally, we headed back through the King’s Chamber on our way to the final chamber in the assemblage, the Green Lake Room, passing the Bashful Elephant, which indeed, does appear to be a small elephant viewed from its rear. The Green Lake Room is the uppermost of the four rooms and named after the deep, malachite colored lake in the corner of the room. An interesting tale was related by our guide about how in the 1940s, the military, using the caverns as an emergency fallout shelter, used the lake to look for ripples caused by an atomic bomb test miles away. As none ever appeared, it was believed that Green Lake Room could be a viable shelter in case of a nuclear attack.
Bashful ElephantGreen Lake Room
Finally, after hearing many tales of Jim White’s explorations, we were all seated on a bench. Our ranger asked us to completely turn off our cellphones and then he proceeded to shut off all lights in the chamber. At this moment, you realize that you have never experienced total darkness, even when you thought you had…at night…in your bedroom. This was something different…until I moved my arm and my Apple Watch gave the area around us a greenish glow, flashing 11:25. Embarrassed for ruining the moment, I quickly removed my watch and placed it under my leg! However, for the mistake, it did give us a small glimpse of how Jim White might have viewed the space with a single candle.
Making our way back to the tour starting point, we then resumed our explorations of the Great Room back from the spot we had left earlier. There was much to see including the Stone Lily Pads, table-like shelf stone formations at the edge of a now dry pool, the Silent Bell, the Crystal Spring Dome which is the largest active stalagmite in the cavern and having a bell-like appearance, the Rock of Ages, a huge column, the Chinese Theater, which contains beautiful columns stalactites and stalagmites and the Dolls Theater, a recessed area with soda straws and small columns.
Bottomless Pit
Cave BaconMirror LakeStone Lily PadsSilent BellRock of AgesDolls TheaterChinese Theater
All in all, our trek throughout the three miles of rooms and passageways of the main cavern took us much longer than expected. The sheer size of the cavern was unlike anything we had ever experienced and it was mind blowing that there are still parts undiscovered and more than 27 miles of passages are not open to the public! There were times when my mind began to wander, thinking that if an earthquake would suddenly happen in this area while we were so far below ground…I had to redirect my thoughts because, well, I just couldn’t fathom the consequences!
Finishing our circuit, we found ourselves back at the elevators and waited patiently for our return to the Visitor’s Center and civilization!
With our tour of what some call “one of the seven wonders of the world”, we headed back to Carlsbad in anticipation of the next leg of our journey.
Returning north, we headed toward Artesia where we took a westerly turn. A short time after our turn onto Route 82, I spotted an enormous sculpture resembling an oil rig. Anxious to get to our destination, but also curious about what it was, I made a U-turn and parked. While the city also boasts one of the best collections of bronze sculptures in the area and a diverse public mural program which celebrate its rich history, this major piece of sculptural work is the one to see if you only have time to devote to a single piece. The Derrick Floor, is dedicated “to the men and women who take risks and do the work to find, produce and refine New Mexico oil and gas.” The drilling rig is a 34-foot high cast with a four man crew created in 125 percent life size scale and sits in a pool of cascading water. It was designed by Vic Payne and dedicated in April of 2004.
My curiosity sated, we headed back to the road and continued our journey west through Lincoln National Forest toward Alamogordo and White Sands. Though most of our journey in New Mexico had been through dry, scrubby barren land, we welcomed the change of scenery as the landscape changed to a lush mountainous and forested region. Though there wasn’t much to see, besides a couple of shops and not many places to stop (plan your bathroom breaks accordingly), we finally emerged on the far side to some amazing mountainous overlooks in Cloudcroft. Happy for the opportunity to stretch our legs we pulled over to take a few photos.
Alamogordo welcomed us with a hot dry wind. As we glanced out toward the area where White Sands National Park was located, we could see a haze in the air and I wondered if conditions would make our planned excursion the next day a no-go. But first, in order for that excursion to take place, we had one thing to do.
Find some snow saucers and ski wax!
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Address: 3225 National Parks Highway, Carlsbad , New Mexico 88220
Hours: Visitor’s Center, 0800-1700, daily. Last cavern entrance ticket sold, 1415. Last cavern entrance, 1430. Elevator into the cavern, 0830-1430. Last elevator out of the cavern, 1645. Hike into the cavern, 0830-1430, Last time to hike out of the cavern, 1530 (complete hike out by 1630). National park closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day. Free entry for America the Beautiful Pass and other passes (see website for more information).
Admission: Adults (16 years and older), $15.00, Children (under 16 years), free.
