train – Snapping The Globe

Around the Hoorn

So often have I visited Amsterdam over the years, that sometimes I need a bit of variety. Looking for a nice little day trip to get me away from the city I stumbled upon an article about the town of Hoorn, a city in the northern part of The Netherlands. The article had stated that Hoorn was one of the “Best Day Trips From Amsterdam”, so I thought, why not? Though it was early Fall, the sun was forecasted to be shining and it was going to be rather warm…the perfect day for some sightseeing!

Taking the train from Amsterdam’s Central Station, I thought I was doing the right thing when I arrived at the station and nabbed an earlier departure. I relaxed in my seat and readied for my hour-long trip. The train’s whistle sounded and the train began its departure from the city, while I began to watch my progress on Google maps. But wait! I was suddenly confused to see that the train heading northwesterly towards Alkmaar. It dawned on me that I made a major mistake by taking the earlier departure…this train was a local, not the express, so there I was, sightseeing in the Netherlands countryside for an extra half hour…a mistake I was sure to not make on my return!

A bit beyond my anticipated arrival, we finally pulled into the Hoorn station and I made my way past canals, flowers and quaint homes, much like I have seen in other parts of the country. I had planned a route that would take me though the center of the city and its churches, to the waterfront and to two of the city’s ancient gates.

The Grote Kerk, of which origins date back to medieval times, was my first stop, but unfortunately, I found it to be under construction and not open to the public. This structure is the third to be built on the site and dates back to 1883. While I was not allowed inside, I was able to admire its tower with its unadorned needle spire and clock from afar. I then continued on to the main square, hoping to visit the Roman Catholic church of Saint Cyriacus and Francis, popularly called the Dome Church.

Geez, were all of the churches undergoing construction???!!! Here, I found the façade of the Dome Church blocked with scaffolding, however, undeterred, I found the entrance and took a peek inside.

The Dome Church, built in 1882, is still in use today and known for its amazing dome, stained glass and renowned artwork. A small chapel greeted me as I entered, however, the interior was partitioned off by a glass wall. While I would have loved to walk through towards the main altar so that I could appreciate the dome, the glass doors were locked. Still, I was grateful that I could see some of its interior from afar.

Upon my departure, I headed toward the main part of town, passing through the Kaasmarkt (main square) and the statue of Jan Pietersz Coen. Though the city’s streets were on the quiet side, I was not surprised to see a few other tourists congregating around this statue and dining in the outdoor restaurants that lined the square.

Making my way towards the waterfront and marina, I found a paved pathway, which was perfect for exercise and just enjoying the beauty of the lake, Markermeer. As I followed the coast towards the small lighthouse at the end of the path, I took in the various artwork that lined the walkway. Designed by various artists, they comprised both modern and rustic elements. My favorite? “The Empty Coat” by Marion Jebbink.

Eventually, my walk ended at the lighthouse, a small, basic wood-beam structure. It was not very picturesque, but it had given my walk a purpose and I had some good views of the Heritage Sailing Center and the Museum of the 20th Century.

Heading back to where I had come, I then skirted the marina on the far side, making my way to the Hoofdtoren.

The Hoofdtoren is a tower named after the nearby jetty Houten Hoofd and was constructed in 1532. While it acted as one of the last defenses of the city and located at the port, it now acts as a popular restaurant. Adjacent to the tower, on the quay wall, is a statue of the Ship Boys of Bontekoe from the book of the same name and it is a nice place to take in the beautiful old boats that fill the harbor.

A little further up the Oude Doelenkade, I crossed the Hoge Bruge, the iron drawbridge that crosses the Oude Haven and headed toward the Oosterkerk. Built in 1616, the church was originally a Roman Catholic temple used by fisherman and boat captains. After the Reformation, it became a Dutch Reformed Church and was known for its beautiful stained-glass windows but also for its organ, built in 1764 by Johann Heinrich Hartmann Batz…the only one that he built in North Holland. Today, decommissioned, the historic structure is a cultural center which hosts activities such as concerts, meetings, weddings and memorials.

Sadly, it wasn’t really my day for churches…I found this one locked up as well…

Finally, crossing the Kleine Oostbrug, I made it to the edge of the city center and the Oosterpoort, the city’s only remaining gate, built in 1578. Located on the Draafsingel, a remnant of the original defensive canal, the Oosterpoort bridge runs under the gate, giving pedestrians and cyclists a pathway across the waterway. While it serves a practical purpose, it definitely gives visitors a look into the city’s history and a place for stunning photos.

As the day was coming to a close, I wound my way back through the city, crossing the pedestrian bridge, Kippebruggetje, enroute to the train station. I had enjoyed my outing in the beautiful little city of Hoorn, but shadows were now creeping in, signaling the day’s end. I wanted to make sure that I caught my train back to Amsterdam.

This time…the right train!

Sanctuaries and Souvenirs

The early bird gets the worm…or a great breakfast!

Although I had checked many things off of my list of things to do in Havana, there was still a great deal more to see! As I sat in the dining room, enjoying my eggs, fruit and toast, I checked my map and thought more about the some of the things that were suggested by my seatmate on the flight to Havana.

Deciding to start at the Basilica and Convent of San Francis of Assisi, I thought that I would finally see more of the religious institutions that dot the predominately Catholic country.

Getting anywhere was slow going as I was continually distracted by the unique architecture that existed on each block. Passing the Museo Casa de Mexico Benito Juarez, I made a note to return later if there was time and then made a quick stop to admire the statue of Simon Bolivar, the Venezuelan military and political leader who led Venezuela, Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Panama to independence from the Spanish Empire.

*Casa de Benito Juarez* *and Simon Bolivar Statue*

Finally arriving in the Plaza de San Francisco de Asis, I first sought out two significant statues. The monument to the Polish composer, Frederic Chopin, sits on a bench, beckoning visitors to take a seat next to him and El Caballero, the bronze likeness of José María López Lledín, a man which much speculation once surrounded. An interesting story surrounds the latter. Originally from Spain, he was was said to have lost his family, arrested for a crime he did not commit and wandered the streets of Havana during the 1950s. He always carried a portfolio with his treasured pens, gifts and colored pieces of cards, which he bestowed on passersby. Over time, he became well known throughout the city and would often entertain with poetry recitals and storytelling. He died in 1985 and was buried in the Cemetery of Santiago de las Vegas. After the restoration of the plaza in the late 1990s, his remains were exhumed and placed in the Basilica Menor de San Francisco de Asis. His statue was erected in 2001 and was designed by sculptor José Villa Soberón, who also sculpted the John Lennon sculpture which can be found in the Parque Lennon in Vedado. His beard has been rubbed shiny and it is said that doing so gives good luck!

After a beard rubbing, I admired the lovely, wide open plaza and the beautiful buildings surrounding it, as well as the statue of Fray Junípero Serro with a Juaneño Indian boy, before entering the Basilica.

The original church that stood on this site was built by the Franciscans in 1591 but was damaged by severe storms in 1680 and 1692. A hurricane toppled its tower in 1694. Eventually, construction resulted in the church’s present Baroque stature in 1739, was named a basilica by the Pope and became the city’s premier house of worship. It eventually adjoined the adjacent Franciscan convent.

As I ventured inside, again I was a bit underwhelmed, as I had been with the Havana Cathedral. Its interior is in the shape of a Latin cross with domed ceilings, however, it lacked the grandeur that I thought would exist here. As I later learned, however, from 1762, the church no longer served the Catholic religion. From this time, the British had control over Havana and commandeered the basilica for Anglican services. Considered desecrated by the Protestants, Catholicism never existed within its walls again. Although the monks continued to occupy the convent, Queen Maria Cristina of Spain closed the building and transferred the members of the religious order. In 1907, the property was purchased by the government and sadly, became a warehouse.

Today, the church acts as one of Havana’s most outstanding concert halls and is home to the acclaimed all-female chamber orchestra, Camerata Romeu. As I wandered through the church, I was privy to some of the members performing during a rehearsal session.

Inside the crypt, the remains of many 17th and 18th century aristocrats can be found. The nave and the attached cloister also houses the Museum of Sacred Art which exhibits paintings by José Nicolás de la Escalera and Vicente Escobar, wooden images, early marriage registries and the armchairs and lectern used by Fidel Castro and Pope John Paul II during his 1998 visit. Though I enjoyed wandering through the church’s interior, it was the cloister with its fern-filled courtyards and countless rooms filled with religious artifacts that was most captivating.

The former church’s one hundred and thirty-seven foot tower, once the tallest in Havana (second tallest in Cuba), was previously crowned by a statue of St. Francis of Assisi, whose head was severed during a hurricane in 1846. Though the tower can be accessed by a somewhat rickety staircase (which I had planned to tackle for the beautiful views of the city), it was sadly not meant to be…the spire was closed due to maintenance.

Making my departure, I headed south on Oficios and immediately found myself staring at a train’s coach car, El Coche Mambi. Entering the car, I was greeted by an elderly woman, who explained (in Spanish) that visiting was by tour only. After paying her, she then led me through the car which was used by the Presidents on their tours of the country. Last used by Fidel Castro Ruz, the coach has been converted into a museum and preserved the same as when it was in use. Though my Spanish is basic, I mostly understood the history and what I was seeing as she led me through the coach and explained its contents. The president’s bedroom, the president’s wife’s bedroom, the kitchen, dining room and the president’s desk were quite interesting and beautifully displayed.

As I thanked the gracious senora for the short, yet insightful stopover, I ventured out, making my way to the waterside.

Headed toward the ferry terminal, I first encountered Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral. Since I had deemed the day, “a church day”, I decided that my ferry to Regla could wait while I find if it was possible to see the church’s interior. Discovering unlocked doors, I peered inside, spying a woman performing some tasks. She did not seem disturbed by my presence, so I quietly entered and moved throughout the space, discovering each of the elements that make an orthodox church unique.

The church’s construction dates back to 2004 when Cuban leader Fidel Castro offered to build the cathedral as a monument to Russian and Cuban good-will. The cathedral was built in the Byzantine style with a central golden cupola surrounded by four smaller copper-colored ones. The pieces of the cupolas, as well as elements of decoration, including the floor covering and the church plate, were brought from Moscow and the interior has space for 500 congregants.

After my walk-thru was complete, I ventured back out into the sunshine, finally heading to the ferry terminal. My destination was the small town across the bay where the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla is located. Though I probably would have not done this without some coaxing, it was highly recommended by the tour guide that I sat beside on the airplane. After hearing how much I love visiting churches, he insisted that I take the ferry to see this church, which houses the black Madonna, a highly venerated statue of the Virgin Mary.

I was a bit nervous as I entered the ferry terminal. After having my bag searched, I unsuccessfully searched for a ticket counter. There were many people waiting and as a boat approached from the south, I assumed that this was the correct vessel. Lining up with both locals and tourists, I asked a gentleman if this was the boat to Regla and was told yes, only to glance up and discover that another boat had pulled up to the dock. Hmmm. I decided that I would go with my gut!

As I approached the lanchita on the right, I saw people paying the crew as they boarded. Thankfully, I had smaller change, even though I overpaid a bit…ticket price was only 10 centavos! Making my way across the boat to the open doorways, so that I could get some air while fighting for space among the masses, I again asked someone (who appeared to be a local) if I was on the boat to Regla. “Si Señora”, he replied and I breathed a sigh of relief.

As we pulled away from the dock, I realized that if I indeed was on the wrong boat, the other ferry crossed the bay to the Christ statue and that wouldn’t be such a bad thing. Our ferry motored off, getting further from the city and I spied the golden cupola of Our Lady of Kazan in the distance, reflecting the brilliant glow of the day. And…it looked like we were headed in the right direction!

Seven minutes later, we were pulling up to the dock in Regla and I decided to follow those who appeared to be tourists. From the looks of the area, it seemed like the church was the tourist destination of choice…maybe the only choice.

Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla was a short walk and I was met by many vendors sitting on the stone gates which surrounded the church, hoping to sell me a candle or an offering to the Virgin. The church, with its long colorful history, is extremely important to the believers of the Virgin. The statue, which was believed to have been carved by St. Augustine “the African” in the 5th century, was brought from Spain in 453. After surviving a storm in the Strait of Gibraltar, it became known as the patron of sailors.

A small hut was built on the site, to house a copy of the image in 1687 by a pilgrim named Manuel Antonio, but was destroyed by a hurricane only five years later. A more durable chapel was built a few years later and in 1714, Nuestra Señora de Regla was proclaimed patron of the Bahía de la Habana. In 1957, the image was crowned by the Cuban Cardinal in the Havana Cathedral. On September 7, the saint is celebrated when thousands of pilgrims descend on Regla and the image is paraded through the streets.

The church’s vaulted ceiling makes a grand statement above the lightness of the church’s color scheme which is trimmed in blue, a salute to its association with the sea. There are beautiful paintings which depict life on the ocean, carved stations of the cross, saint’s statues and a golden side altar. As you enter the church, however, it is the altar, directly in your line of vision, that houses La Santísima Virgen de Regla. Though I had to wait a short time, I was finally able to approach the altar and take pictures of the Black Madonna…truly awe inspiring.

The ferry ride back to Old Havana was a quick affair and I toyed with the idea of immediately jumping on the other ferry. I wanted to revisit the Christ Statue and Castillo Des Los Tres Reyes Del Morro and I also wanted to tour La Cabana. There were other things in Old Havana that I wanted to discover first, however, so off I went by land, towards the Almacenes San José Artisan’s Market.

Since I had done a bit of browsing on Obispo street, but not yet made any significant purchases, I was eager to see what I might find in this highly recommended establishment. Built in 1885, the Havana’s oldest depository is the home to the largest artisan’s market in the city. A short walk from the harbor, it is easily accessible to cruise ship arrivals and offers everything from clothes to paintings to toys and tobacco accessories. The sheer size of it was quite overwhelming and I was not sure where to turn. As everyone tried to garner my attention, I decided that I would try to find shirts for my sons and a nativity set for my collection. In a predominately Catholic country, it would seem that finding a nativity set would be an easy feat, however, it took at least a half an hour of talking to people, who then went to talk to people, in order to find one! And since I was pretty particular about the type of t-shirts that I was searching for, it was a similar procedure. It was quite exhausting, but I met some interesting people, learned some interesting local news and walked away with the purchases I had planned and then a couple of unplanned ones too!

With my heavy package, I decided that I would begin heading back to my Airbnb to drop them and have a quick bite to eat. Crossing the street, however, I spotted the Church of St. Francisco of Paula. What caught my attention was the tall trio of stained glass windows on the rear of the church. I decided that I should take a quick look from the inside to see their sunlit beauty.

What originally served as an important hospital for women and children during the end of the 17th century, was built with an adjoining church devoted to St. Francis of Paola, one of the founders of the Roman Catholic Order of the Minims. The buildings were destroyed by a hurricane in 1730, but rebuilt in the Baroque style that is seen today. When the Havana Central Railroad attempts to demolish the church was met by opposition, work was completed to have it listed as a National Monument in 1944. Sadly, however, the railroad was able to destroy the hospital.

The church that can be visited today is similar in style to other Havana churches, those of Santo Domingo, Guanabacoa and San Francisco de Asis and has been extensively restored. The stained glass windows, that lured me inside, act as the altarpiece and this church has the only organ that has been preserved in Cuba with its original pipes and machinery. The ashes of the great Cuban violinist Claudio José Brindis de Salas (1852-1911), considered one of the best violinists of his time, are preserved in the church and although the the belfry still exists, its original three bells, destroyed during the hurricane of 1730, were never restored.

My stomach was starting to rumble and my feet were starting to ache, but there was one more church I wanted to see before I shifted gears. A couple of blocks from St. Francis of Paola church was the Iglesia y Convento de la Merced.

Having seen a few churches in the city, I had been a bit underwhelmed. This one, however, did not disappoint. One of the most beautiful churches in Havana, it was built between 1865 and 1867 in the Baroque style and is the type to make you gasp as you lay your eyes on the interior. Decorated by Cuban artists, it contains murals and frescoes throughout with highlights of light blue on the ceiling and an elegant black and white marble floor. Beautiful statuary and intricately carved stations of the cross grace its heart and it was hard not to take a seat on the old carved pews to rest and pray for a few moments. The most intriguing part of the church, however, was the chapel on the left side of the church with a full grotto installed behind the altar. Though the church is suffering from exposure to the damp air and is in need of restoration, it is truly one that I was glad that I did not miss.

Finally, it was time to continue my journey back to my temporary home. It had been a busy morning and I needed to refresh and refuel. After my lunch, it would be time to change channels from churches to the forts that lay across the channel.

From prayers to protection…all in a day in Havana!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Casa Benito Juarez

Address: 116, Obrapia, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: Sunday and Tuesday only, 0930-1430.
Admission: Unknown

Statue of Simon Bolivar

Address: Mercaderes, Obrapia, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Convento and Basilica Menor of San Francis of Assisi

Address: Plaza de San Francisco La Habana Vieja, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0930-1800, daily
Admission: Church and Museum, $2 CUC (about $2 US), Tower $1 CUC (about $1 US), Children under 12 years, free

El Coche Mambi

Address: Oficios y Churruca, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 0930-1600. Closed Sunday.
Admission: By tour only, $2 CUC (about $2 US)

Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral

Address: Avenida del Puerto Esquina Calles Sol y Santa Clara – La Habana Vieja, Havana 10100 Cuba
Hours: No posted opening times
Admission: free

Terminal de Ferris (Ferry Terminal)

Address: Avenue Del Puerto, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 0400-midnight, daily.
Admission: 10 centavos (about 10 cents US)
Capacity is 90 persons and boats depart every 15 minutes

Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Regla

Address: Avenue Marti, Regla, Cuba
Hours: 0800-1700, daily
Admission: free, donations accepted

Almacenes San José Artisan’s Market

Address: Avenida del Puerto corner of Calle Cuba
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 1000-1800. Closed on Monday.
Admission: free

St. Francis of Paola

Address: 110 Leonor Pérez, Havana, Cuba
Hours: No posted opening times
Admission: free

Iglesia Y Convento de la Merced

Address: Calle de Cuba 806, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Hours listed are 0800-1200 and 1500-1700, Monday-Saturday and 0900-1300, Sunday, however, I ventured in after the noon hour, so church may or may not be closed. Mass times are 0900, Monday-Saturday and noon, Sunday
Admission: free

Finding the Falls

Sometimes you feel as if you have seen all there is to see in a city, even though you haven’t.

Take the time to move on for a while and come back later.

Maybe because I always seem to be in Zurich on Sundays, when everything is closed, is why I always feel as if there is nothing to do. So, sometimes, I dread my trips to the Swiss city if I will be there on the seventh day of the week. Not to say that there isn’t more to see, I just never seem to be there when it is available.

Having explored much of the city near the lake and the Old Town, I had grown a little tire of that area (Gasp…yes, I said that!) and was interested in finding another part of the city (or even country) to investigate.

Since I was going to have some time in Zurich during the beautiful crisp days of Fall, I decided that I was going to venture out of the city to see what I could find.

A friend of mine from Schaffhausen suggested that I take the train to the Rhine Falls if the weather was nice.

Arriving to bright sunshine, I decided to forego my nap, head to the train station and find my way to what is described as the largest waterfall in not only Switzerland, but Europe!

Located on the High Rhine, the falls are 492 feet wide, 75 meters high and were formed approximately 14,000 to 17,000 years ago by erosion-resistant rocks narrowing the riverbed.

Deciding to make a connection in Wintertur in order to keep the ticket price a bit lower, I boarded the train and watched the rolling hills fly by until I arrived in my connecting station. As luck would have it, my connecting train was on the next track and I was quickly on my way to my final station.

About an hour after I departed, I was arriving in Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall.

Since I had arrived on the southern bank (the paid side), I purchased my ticket using the automated machine and passed through the turnstile making my way down the shady path. The sound of the water guided me along the trails and at each viewing platform, I relished the beautiful views, each one surpassing the previous.

As I made my way toward the falls, I was thrilled to discover an opening in the rocks, leading to a cave opening up directly to the falling water…the air moist and the roar of rushing water deafening in the small space! Despite the low lighting, it was an amazing photo opportunity and a unique perspective of the natural phenomenon.

Following the winding path back toward the way I had come, I continued onward until reaching the boat dock. Here I analyzed the different boat tours offered. The first option a 15 minute ride would bring me right in front of the falls (7.00 CHF) and the second, a 30 minute minute ride provided a stop at the tall rock in the center of the falls with a viewing platform at the top (20.00 CHF). Since I was toting my expensive camera and didn’t want to get wet on the cool afternoon, I opted for the short tour.

Boarding a boat (included in tour price), I crossed the Rhine and disembarked on the other side, moving to the boarding area for Tour 4, with the boat captain calling for boarding a few minutes later.

Pulling away from the dock, we sailed away into the river, along north bank and passed so near the falls that the mist descended upon us quickly. Despite getting a little wet, however, the views from this vantage point were remarkable, exhibiting the magnificent power of the raging waters.

During my fifteen minute expedition, we cruised back and forth in front of the falls allowing me to get some amazing photos and also see what I missed by not venturing to the top of the rock in the middle of the river. Everyone at the top of the rock was wearing ponchos and their hair was quite damp! It made me (and my camera) glad that I chose the shorter (and cheaper) boat tour.

As the boat deposited me back at the dock, I decided to walk along the shore and see what else was offered.

There were food trucks and restaurants offering a vast array of food and drink and a beautiful path along the waterway. Meandering slowly so that I could enjoy the views and the sunshine, I soon shed my coat and took a seat on one many benches placed strategically so that visitors could relax and enjoy the spectacle that the falls offer.

Continuing on my way, I came to the 17th century mill, which once contained a blast furnace for smelting iron ore in the limestone. In operation until the first half of the 19th century, it now offers beautiful photo opportunities though nothing more.

Once again, on my way, I discovered pathways leading both into the town of Schaffhausen and up the steep embankments toward the railway bridge leading back to the Schloss Laufen. Since I wasn’t sure how to retrace my steps back to Zurich from the Schaffhausen train station, nor whether my ticket would be valid, I headed toward the bridge, positive that it would take me back to the station in which I had arrived.

The pathways were shady and well kept with many overlooks offering outstanding views of the falls from different perspectives and I took my time to enjoy them all. Finally, I arrived at the railway bridge and happily found a pedestrian walkway leading toward Schloss Laufen.

The castle, a seat of the barons of Laufen has a rich history including the ownership by grand nobility. Once operating as a wine tavern, the castle has also offered rooms as a youth hostel since 1946. Though I didn’t venture inside, I did walk the grounds of the castle, the cemetery and the nearby church, even poking my head in for a quick prayer for a safe trip back to Zurich.

Heading back to the platform, it was time to make the hour’s journey back to Old Town and a warm dinner, despite the exhaustion I was starting to feel due to lack of sleep.

So…was heading out of the city to the Rhine Falls worth the hour’s journey?

Absolutely!

Witnessing nature’s beauty first hand…so worth the lack of sleep!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Rhine Falls

https://rheinfall.ch/en/
Address: Rheinfallquai 32, 8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
Hours: Northern banks, Neuhausen am Rheinfall/Schaffhausen, free access 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. Southern banks with Schloss Laufen, Dachsen/Zurich, viewing platform access open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Souvenir Shop/Ticketing/Historama, June, July and August, 0800-1900. September, October, April and May, 0900-1800. November, February and March, 0900-1700. December and January, 1000-1600.
Admission: Northern banks with Schlössli Wörth, Neuhausen am Rheinfall/Schaffhausen, free admission. Southern banks with Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall, Dachsen/Zurich, 5.00 CHF per person. Included in the ticket price, access to the Historama and the viewing platforms. Children, ages 6-15 years, 3.00 CHF. Groups, 15-29 persons, 3.00 CHF per person. Groups, more than 30 persons, 2.00 CHF. Prices, 1 CHF is equal to 1 USD.
Boat Tours: Short Tour, 15 minutes, Adults, 7.00 CHF, Children, ages 6-16, 4.00 CHF. Long Tour with stop at the rock, 30 minutes , Adults, 20.00 CHF, Children, ages 6-16, 15.00 CHF. Audioguide Tour, 30 minutes, Adults, 10.00 CHF, Children, ages 6-16, 7.00 CHF
Getting There: Direct trains are available from Zurich HB to Schloss am Laufen and Schaffhausen. Connections can also be made in Wintertur (prices lower with connection). When arriving in Schaffhausen, the Rhyfall Express train runs between the historic old town and the falls and takes approximately 20 minutes.

Schloss Laufen

http://www.schlosslaufen.ch/en/

Training Days

There are three ways to get to Machu Picchu.

Hiking the Inca Trail.

By private van or bus to the town of Hydroelectrico and hike three hours.

By train.

Perusing the different options, we immediately knew that on our vacation, we didn’t want to do any major hiking, not knowing how we would react to the altitude. So, train it was!

Having opted to catch the train from the nearby Poroy Station, we set out early in the morning by taxi. As we neared the station, our cab driver attempted to communicate with us and with his limited Spanish, we were concerned that he was lost. Finally, as we pulled into the station parking lot, we learned that he wanted to know our return time the next night so he could pick us up. As I negotiated the price, I felt some relief knowing that upon our arrival, we would not have to hope for transportation back to our hotel.

With plenty of time to spare, we bought waters and made ourselves as comfortable as possible, watching the boarding process for the Explorer train, leaving a bit earlier than ours. We had packed light, discovering that Peru Rail, prefers smaller bags and left the our larger bags checked at our hotel, which we would return to the next night, yet it was interesting to see others with larger suitcases. Maybe they were staying in Aguas Calientes for a longer period of time. Maybe they don’t know how to pack light. Still, it was freeing to be traveling with only a backpack. Eventually, our departure time neared and we took our place in line, eager to see what the Vistadome train offered.

Having assigned seating provided no stress about finding seats together and we were excited to see the seats across the table unoccupied. As the train pulled out from the station, we were tired from our long day in the Sacred Valley, our short night and were eager to get more sleep. We soon found our curiosity about the surrounding countryside superseded the need to doze.

The train was extremely comfortable with large, leather seats, lots of leg room and huge windows, offering spectacular views of the passing scenery. Not long after our departure, the crew came into the aisle, giving me momentary pause, reminding me of my own job. Snacks and beverages were offered and were quite delicious.

After everything was cleared away, I marveled at the towns we glided by and the people going about their daily routines…traditionally dressed women, children walking to school, villagers working in the fields and hikers and sherpas and hikers setting out on the Inca trail.

Soon, we neared Ollantaytambo and the train slowed, pulling into the station. Though we had been able to enjoy our table alone for the first part of the journey, we were soon joined by a couple from Spain. Though pleasantries were exchanged at their arrival, it was evident that their English was not good enough to maintain a conversation, so I occupied myself with trying to capture what I was seeing on my camera.

Almost four hours from the start of our journey in Poroy, we felt the train slowing once again as we pulled into the station at Aguas Calientes, Machu Picchy Station. So excited to begin our exploration of a new part of Peru, we grabbed our bags and headed out, eager to see what this small town had to offer.

Flash forward…after exploring Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu, we returned to the Machu Picchu station for our return to Cusco.

The train station was quite busy and a little confusing. My husband and I were not sure if we were in the correct boarding spot and had to verify with station personnel.

Finally, we boarded and made ourselves comfortable in our seats at the middle of the train. The other couple sharing our table was from England, most interesting to chat with and we were able to compare stories of our time at Machu Picchu.

As with our trip to Aguas Calientes, complimentary sandwiches and beverages were offered and later, alcoholic beverages and snacks were available for purchase.

Once the trolleys were put away, we were informed that we would be treated to a fashion show. Our attendants came through the aisles, one at a time, wearing alpaca sweaters, shawls, capes and scarves. They demonstrated the flexibility of each piece, which were also available for sale.

Deciphering an announcement made over the P.A., I understood something about a demon. A little confused, I looked at my husband, and told him that I must have misunderstood what I was hearing. Music began to play and a brightly garbed character wearing a demonic mask with long, blonde hair came running from the galley, dancing and leaping through the aisle.

What we learned from this amusing spectacle is that it is called, The Diablada or Danza de los Diablos (Dance of the Demons), an original dance from Peru and Bolivia which is characterized by the mask and devil suit worn by the performer. It is a religious, theatrical dance honoring spirits and used as a symbol for the country’s indigenous cultural identity.

Since it had grown darker outside and we were unable to see the beautiful scenery, it was a welcome distraction. We clapped and laughed at the demon’s antics and enjoyed his dances with various patrons.

Finally, the train slowed and we were arriving in Cusco.

Our driver was waiting with our name on a sign and as exhausted as we were from our extended day, we were glad that we had arranged to have him there to greet us.

Many people want the entire experience of hiking to Machu Picchu, although this is not for everyone, especially those with mobility issues. Though I think it would have been a unique adventure, I am not sure I would have enjoyed the hiking portion, probably arriving at Machu Picchu much too exhausted to actually enjoy it.

Anyone who wants to visit Machu Picchu should consider the one of the train lines for at least half of the trip, very efficient and comfortable, it was absolutely worth the price of a ticket!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Peru Rail

https://www.perurail.com/
One-way tickets from $75 for Expedition, $95 for Vistadome, $500 for Hiram Bingham.

Inca Rail

https://incarail.com/
One-way tickets from $66 for Voyager and 360 and from $115 for First Class.

So You Want To Go To Machu Picchu?

For the past few years, I have enviously swiped through my friend’s Facebook posts about their sojourns to Machu Picchu. Spying them perched on the mountainside with the picturesque citadel spread out below them…and the occasional llama or two…I envisioned myself there one day.

The destination has been on my bucket list for some time, yet I hadn’t quite made it a priority…the planning, alone, seemed extremely overwhelming!

And it was.

Sure, you can call up a tour company and have it all done for you. Thing was, I wasn’t interested in doing one of the multi-day Inca trail treks that many people envision to be the sole way to navigate their way to the 15th century citadel. Mainly, I think I am smart enough to realize that:

a) I am not 25 anymore.

b) I had a back injury last year.

c) Who knows how I will react to the altitude once I am there.

d) There are easier ways to reach the destination that do not involve not having a shower for four days.

After reading up on many ways to experience the country and the journey, I decided, “I can do this on my own.”

Well…the planning anyway…my husband was coming along!

Making a list, I prioritized what needed to be done and there were SO MANY options! I was, indeed, overwhelmed and didn’t know where to start. Finally, approaching the task with the mindset of booking things in the order that made the most sense, I created a folder…no, not on my computer…the old fashioned way.

I grabbed a manila folder and wrote Machu Picchu on the front.

Now I had a place where, I could place printed confirmations, tickets and additional information. Believe me, this worked best as later in the trip, I would have to pull out many of the hard-copies for various reasons.

After choosing our total length of stay and booking our flight to Lima, we had some important decisions to make.

With a flight arriving at almost midnight, should we hang out in the airport for a few hours and catch the one of the first flights to Cusco the next morning? Spend time in Lima on the way home? Spend the first two nights in Lima, with sightseeing and then head to Cusco? No time in Lima?

After going back and forth, I decided that my husband needed to see some sights in Lima and of course, have some of the famous churros at Manolo’s.

Booking two nights in Lima was first on the list. Having been to Lima before, I knew that we wanted to stay in the Miraflores area. My husband is also a status member of a major hotel chain, so that choice was easy.

Next, came the booking of our Cusco flight. There are quite a few airlines that fly from Lima to Peru and not having any inside information on any of them, I decided that price and time of day would be the deciding factors.

LATAM? Avianca? Star Peru? Peruvian? LC Peru? Viva Air Peru?

Having finally decided on Star Peru, it was disheartening to discover difficult that their booking sight would not charge my credit card. I am not sure if it was user error or the fact that I was trying to book from outside of the country, but I had to figure out another option…Kayak showed me many options and although the price was slightly higher, I was able to book LC Peru. After spending a day in Lima, we would leave fairly early for the short, one hour flight to Cusco. Arriving mid-morning, we just hoped that our hotel would allow for an early check-in. Additionally, our flight from Lima, back to the states, was around the midnight hour, so we decided on a flight from Cusco later in the afternoon, allowing us to sleep in, ask for a later check-out and grab some lunch before heading to the airport.

Our next major decision was how to split up the time in Cusco upon our arrival. What should we see and do? When should we head to Machu Picchu?

Scheduled to arrive in Cusco on Saturday morning, we decided to see a bit of the city that afternoon and possibly the next, allowing for acclimatization. We were anxious to get to Machu Picchu, but didn’t want to rush the process.

After some debate on whether or not to book a tour to the Sacred Valley which incorporated travel to Machu Picchu and back, I decided that I wanted to experience everything on my own time. This option required a full day of sightseeing, arriving in Aguas Calientes at night and having to rise early the next morning. Though one of my friends described the small gateway city to Machu Picchu as a “dump” and “an armpit”, I was convinced that it offered some charm and I wanted ample time to see it.

Deciding that we would see the Sacred Valley on Sunday, travel to Aguas Calientes on Monday and visit Machu Picchu on Tuesday, I now had to make sure that this timeline was possible.

Since capacity restrictions dictate whether or not I could purchase tickets to Machu Picchu, checking the Ministry of Culture website for availability was my first order of business. I had heard that the website was a bit confusing, but I had no problems, other than deciding if we wanted to climb Huayna Picchu. After following the directions offered, our tickets for the morning entrance were secured and printed.

Second order of business…getting to Aguas Calientes. The Peru Rail website was pretty straightforward and we decided that we would travel from Cusco Poroy station to Aguas Calientes, instead of from Ollantaytambo, which required a lengthy taxi or bus ride. Pricing wasn’t much different and we would leave early, arriving around 11:00 am. After selecting our options, the website made a reservation and charged my credit card, however, it did not generate tickets. I knew something was off but not sure what the problem was. After two phone calls to Peru, I finally found someone at Peru Rail who could help. Six hours later, many emails back and forth, plus the submittal of information requested, we finally had tickets. A refund for the first charges was processed about a week later.

Next, we needed a hotel room in Aguas Calientes. There are many options from hostels to high-end spas. After perusing different choices on Agoda, I decided that with so little time at the hotel, it was not prudent to spend a great deal for one night. Deciding on a mid-grade room, this was booked and paid for.

With our plans for Machu Picchu now in place, we were able to make hotel reservations for Cusco. Choosing my husband’s preferred hotel chain, we booked two nights in Cusco and then another three for after our return from Machu Picchu.

Finally, the Sacred Valley beckoned. There are many options for organized tours to this amazing area available on the internet. Reaching out to a friend who had just been in Cusco, for advice, she put me in touch with a local contact. He, in turn, reached out to people he knew and found a tour that visited the sites we most wanted to see, Chincherra, Maras, Moray, Ollantaytambo and Pisac and lunch in Urubamba. The price, at first, seemed much cheaper than what I was seeing in my research and I was a little hesitant. What I learned, however, was that we had to pay for entrance to the sights once we arrived in Chincherra, making it about the same price in the end. When all was said and done, however, if I had to book this tour again, the first thing I would inquire about is how many other passengers are on the trip, something I usually do but failed this time.

So, the only things left on the booking agenda was how to fill our two remaining days in Cusco, once we returned from Machu Picchu. There were many tours on the internet and my friend let me know that many options were available throughout the city and in the Plaza de Armas. We decided that we would wait and see what we found once we arrived. We would also purchase our tickets for our bus ride to Machu Picchu once we arrived in Cusco, since they are only valid for three days after purchase. This would allow us to avoid the long lines that sometimes form in Aquas Calientes.

Now, the only things left to do was confirm our flights closer to our departure date and figure out what to wear.

Figuring out what to pack was much tougher than I expected and I spent many days, shopping and then returning items that I ultimately decided were not what the trip required. The weather seemed to change on a dime and everyone uttered those words I hate, “bring layers”. The weather forecast even gave the type of temperatures that I hate, “60s”! 60 in the sun, can be totally different than 60 in the shade!

Eventually, I decided on three pairs of quick-drying pants (so I could wash them in the room, if needed), a pair of jeans that I would wear on the plane and for dinner, one pair of exercise-type leggings, two flannel shirts, a couple of nicer blouses for dinner, a few quick-drying shirts and a short sleeve shirt. To top it all, I did indeed, bring layers. A Columbia zip-up fleece, a lighter weight jacket (that could be combined with the fleece), a Columbia rain jacket and my ScottEVest to carry many items securely and without taking up space in my carry on. I purchased inexpensive socks from a dollar store that I could leave behind. My shoe collection consisted of three pairs…a thick soled pair of “nicer” boots (good for walking on cobblestones), hiking boots and tennis shoes. A scarf, dollar store gloves, hat, bathing suit and sunglasses completed my list.

Besides our clothing, the other most important ingredient in our bags was acetazolamide. Having consulted our physicians long before our trip, we received prescriptions for the drug designed to combat altitude sickness. With an altitude of just over 11,000 feet, visits to Cusco are known to induce headaches, nausea and shortness of breath for those unaccustomed to the high elevation. Since neither of us had ever been to elevations this great, we were unsure how our bodies would react and wanted to be prepared.

Trying to figure out what to put everything in was also a bit confusing. Smaller airlines, usually restrict the size of luggage and what can be brought on board. Last year, I brought an Ebags backpack and a Longchamp carry-on to Africa, though I must admit, that was a bit hard on my back. Thinking about taking a train and having to take luggage was a factor when deciding how to pack. Finally, I opted to my Ebags rollerboard and a backpack. I also brought a foldable daypack. After reading up on the subject, I found that Peru Rail prefers smaller, carry-on sized luggage. Checking with our hotels in Cusco and in Aguas Calientes, I found that we could leave our luggage checked while at Machu Picchu. The most important factor at this point was not bringing many valuables and having good locks for our bags.

Though it took a great deal of effort and time, I finally could sit back and feel comfortable in knowing that everything was ready for our trip. It was finally time…time for me to head to Machu Picchu and get my shot with the citadel…and a llama or two…spread out beneath me!

For more pictures about Machu Picchu and other cities, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.