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So often have I visited Amsterdam over the years, that sometimes I need a bit of variety. Looking for a nice little day trip to get me away from the city I stumbled upon an article about the town of Hoorn, a city in the northern part of The Netherlands. The article had stated that Hoorn was one of the “Best Day Trips From Amsterdam”, so I thought, why not? Though it was early Fall, the sun was forecasted to be shining and it was going to be rather warm…the perfect day for some sightseeing!
Taking the train from Amsterdam’s Central Station, I thought I was doing the right thing when I arrived at the station and nabbed an earlier departure. I relaxed in my seat and readied for my hour-long trip. The train’s whistle sounded and the train began its departure from the city, while I began to watch my progress on Google maps. But wait! I was suddenly confused to see that the train heading northwesterly towards Alkmaar. It dawned on me that I made a major mistake by taking the earlier departure…this train was a local, not the express, so there I was, sightseeing in the Netherlands countryside for an extra half hour…a mistake I was sure to not make on my return!
A bit beyond my anticipated arrival, we finally pulled into the Hoorn station and I made my way past canals, flowers and quaint homes, much like I have seen in other parts of the country. I had planned a route that would take me though the center of the city and its churches, to the waterfront and to two of the city’s ancient gates.
The Grote Kerk, of which origins date back to medieval times, was my first stop, but unfortunately, I found it to be under construction and not open to the public. This structure is the third to be built on the site and dates back to 1883. While I was not allowed inside, I was able to admire its tower with its unadorned needle spire and clock from afar. I then continued on to the main square, hoping to visit the Roman Catholic church of Saint Cyriacus and Francis, popularly called the Dome Church.
Geez, were all of the churches undergoing construction???!!! Here, I found the façade of the Dome Church blocked with scaffolding, however, undeterred, I found the entrance and took a peek inside.
The Dome Church, built in 1882, is still in use today and known for its amazing dome, stained glass and renowned artwork. A small chapel greeted me as I entered, however, the interior was partitioned off by a glass wall. While I would have loved to walk through towards the main altar so that I could appreciate the dome, the glass doors were locked. Still, I was grateful that I could see some of its interior from afar.
Upon my departure, I headed toward the main part of town, passing through the Kaasmarkt (main square) and the statue of Jan Pietersz Coen. Though the city’s streets were on the quiet side, I was not surprised to see a few other tourists congregating around this statue and dining in the outdoor restaurants that lined the square.
Making my way towards the waterfront and marina, I found a paved pathway, which was perfect for exercise and just enjoying the beauty of the lake, Markermeer. As I followed the coast towards the small lighthouse at the end of the path, I took in the various artwork that lined the walkway. Designed by various artists, they comprised both modern and rustic elements. My favorite? “The Empty Coat” by Marion Jebbink.
Eventually, my walk ended at the lighthouse, a small, basic wood-beam structure. It was not very picturesque, but it had given my walk a purpose and I had some good views of the Heritage Sailing Center and the Museum of the 20th Century.
Heading back to where I had come, I then skirted the marina on the far side, making my way to the Hoofdtoren.
The Hoofdtoren is a tower named after the nearby jetty Houten Hoofd and was constructed in 1532. While it acted as one of the last defenses of the city and located at the port, it now acts as a popular restaurant. Adjacent to the tower, on the quay wall, is a statue of the Ship Boys of Bontekoe from the book of the same name and it is a nice place to take in the beautiful old boats that fill the harbor.
A little further up the Oude Doelenkade, I crossed the Hoge Bruge, the iron drawbridge that crosses the Oude Haven and headed toward the Oosterkerk. Built in 1616, the church was originally a Roman Catholic temple used by fisherman and boat captains. After the Reformation, it became a Dutch Reformed Church and was known for its beautiful stained-glass windows but also for its organ, built in 1764 by Johann Heinrich Hartmann Batz…the only one that he built in North Holland. Today, decommissioned, the historic structure is a cultural center which hosts activities such as concerts, meetings, weddings and memorials.
Sadly, it wasn’t really my day for churches…I found this one locked up as well…
Finally, crossing the Kleine Oostbrug, I made it to the edge of the city center and the Oosterpoort, the city’s only remaining gate, built in 1578. Located on the Draafsingel, a remnant of the original defensive canal, the Oosterpoort bridge runs under the gate, giving pedestrians and cyclists a pathway across the waterway. While it serves a practical purpose, it definitely gives visitors a look into the city’s history and a place for stunning photos.
As the day was coming to a close, I wound my way back through the city, crossing the pedestrian bridge, Kippebruggetje, enroute to the train station. I had enjoyed my outing in the beautiful little city of Hoorn, but shadows were now creeping in, signaling the day’s end. I wanted to make sure that I caught my train back to Amsterdam.
This time…the right train!
The Kunsthal Museum, located in the Museumpark in Rotterdam is unique in that it offers no permanent collection, instead, a wide range of temporary exhibits, attracting visitors who may come from one artist and open their mind to another totally different kind of art.
Social media is inundated with fetching felines. Anywhere you look on you YouTube today, you can find countless videos on cats. Check out Instagram and you’ll find cats exposed by their owners. In fact, cats are more popular than ever. Over the years, cats have inspired many artistic masterpieces by Henriette Ronner-Knip, Théophile-Alexandre Steinelen, Karel Appel, Picasso and Wallasse Ting, contemporary artists such as David Shrigley and photographer Marie Cécele Thijs and many of these are on display here. Meandering through the hall, you are offered some insight into how these artists were inspired by numerous felines. In fact, one area of the museum offers a place to experience what it is like to be a cat…creep around on all fours among the bushes, take a nap on one of the “cat beds”, sharpen your nails on a scratching post or take a stroll down the Catwalk. Cat lovers will be in heaven!
My favorites, however, were those that represented the cultural heritage of the airline, like Thai Airways, Allegheny Airlines, so proud of their name and of course, those worn throughout my own airline’s history! Though I loved seeing the various costumes worn by thousands, the way that they were displayed in a vertical manner, made it hard to inspect each of them at close range. All in all, however, it was thrilling to see such an awe-inspiring compilation of something so near and dear to my heart!
Though I cannot say that he was an artist whose work was one that I had previously sought out, I did enjoy his nude portraits of women from the 1920s and the paintings that incorporated macabre skeletons. The dreamlike quality exhibited in his work was extremely calming!
The next artist showcased in the Kunstal, was photographer Jeroen Oerlemans, a Dutch press photographer, who captured mesmerizing shots from Afghanistan, Chad, Libya, Haiti and Iraq of the local residents, despite the danger he constantly faced. The celebrated three-time recipient of the first prize in the Silver Camera foreign news category was unfortunately killed in 2016 by an IS sniper in the Libyan city of Sirte.
Despite visiting the museum for a specific purpose, I can concede that it was nice to step out of the winter day and enjoy some different types of art that I had not anticipated. Sometimes the best things are the least expected!
The first thing I noticed about Rotterdam is while there are new buildings and skyscrapers, there are also still some older buildings scattered throughout the city, sometimes sandwiched between newer construction. I thought that this gave an interesting quality to the city…a sort of ying-yang. The second thing I noticed was that sculpture is EVERYWHERE! Following the canal that led away from the train station, I began to see interesting pieces of artwork lining the banks. Each piece was identified by a metal plaque on the walkway advising observers of the name of the artwork, the artist’s name and location and year constructed. Making for a nice leisurely walk, I stopped at each of the sculptures as I made my way south on Westersingel to Eendrachtsplein, where I found the current location of the controversial sculpture by Paul McCarthy, Santa Claus. A shocking statue, it depicts the beloved Santa not holding a Christmas tree but a sex toy. While some people have defended it proclaiming that it reflects the fetishization of Christmas and the prevalent sexuality in consumer society, others declared it vulgar and offensive.
Further on, I gazed upward at the Euromast, the observation tower constructed between 1958 and 1960 and designed by Hugh Maaskant. Though I would have like to visit the observation platform to see the city from the tallest building in Rotterdam, time was limited and I was headed to the oldest part of the city, Delfshaven.
The Pilgrim Father’s Church, dating back to 1417, when the Roman Catholic Church of St. Anthony was consecrated on the site, later fell into Protestant hands in 1574. When a group of English dissenters fled to the Netherlands in 1608, they later decided to make the journey to America so that they might worship in their own way. On July 21, 1620, they knelt in prayer on the quay near the church before boarding the ship, the Speedwell.
The Erasmus Bridge (Erasmusbrug) was completed in 1996 and is the largest and heaviest bascule bridge in Western Europe, connecting the north and south parts of the city. Named after Desiderius Erasmus (Erasmus of Rotterdam), a prominent Christian renaissance humanist, the cable-stayed bridge section with its single asymmetrical pale blue pylon with a prominent horizontal base has earned the bridge the nickname, The Swan.
Finally, heading back toward the train station, I made three quick detours to see some fantastic landmarks, Kijk Kubus (Cube Houses), innovative housing designed by Piet Blom, Grote of St. Laurenskerk (Church of St. Lawrence), the only remnant of the medieval city of Rotterdam, and Stadhuis Rotterdam (City Hall), the Beaux Art style building (with Byzantine, Roman and Art Deco influences) that was one of the few buildings to survive the bombardment of World War II.
After five hours of intense sightseeing and walking throughout the old-yet-new city of Rotterdam, my feet were aching, yet satisfied. I had seen all that the city had to offer and was confident that future travels would be easier, allowing me to explore the city in depth.
It was time head back to Amsterdam and this time, I caught the Intercity Direct! Definitely the way to go! Heck, I didn’t really even have time to catch a nap!
After doing some research on the 2017-2018 Amsterdam Light Festival, I discovered that the land exhibition had been relocated to the Marineterrein area near the Maritime Museum, making it much more accessible to visitors arriving through Central Station.
Setting out during an extremely cold evening, I walked from Central Station along the water, following signs marking the way to the exhibit. Information booths were located at both ends of the exhibit, where you could obtain information about each of the light displays and purchase information guides.
Okayyyyy…
The next display, Innersense had me waiting for at least twenty minutes. I was admitted into a small space where I was instructed to step onto a small round platform under a “shower head.” Two Dutch ladies looked over at me and asked if I was feeling anything. Anything? No, just a shower head with lights changing color, giving me a “light shower”. Hmmm.
Another confusing one…Fields of Frequencies. Ushered into a small room there were benches and a screen. The light on the screen changed color to different frequencies. Exciting.
One of my favorites, however, was the small tin building with millions of small holes drilled into it. Brocken 6 A. After entering, we were subject to a smokey interior which reflected the light entering from the outside, offering thousands of rays of light. Another, Save Our Souls, was a projection onto one of the buildings which showed a stormy sea with an SOS light in the distance. I think we were supposed to wonder who might need help? Still, the projection was pretty awesome.
How many kinds of tulips are there? One. There is one kind. The tulip. This statement is quite misleading, however, because there are many different groups of tulips each with their own specific characteristics and classified into a system of 15 different groups, broken down into shape, heritage and flowering season.
Should bulbs be dug up every year? In warmer climate zones, digging of the tulip bulbs is advised after the flowering periods and new bulbs planted during the following fall season. For zones 3-8, the bulbs do not need to be removed.
Can tulips be brought to your home country (USA)? Ensure that the bulbs have been approved by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA). Flower bulbs remaining within the European community can be exported throughout Europe with no problems.
The audio guide led me up the stairs and to the various parts of the theater, including the VIP room, the secret, almost-hidden Moroccan room and the main theater, the Grote Zaal.
The beautiful details throughout the building…the light fixtures, the stained glass, the woodwork…all lend to the opinion of it being considered one of the most beautiful cinemas in the world. However, not just a place of beauty, the theater in its time was considered to be revolutionary with its unique heating and ventilation system which kept an even temperature throughout the building and the state of the art Wurlitzer organ with 850 pipes that could make just about any sound, including voice.
Over time, the theater underwent many changes including one to its name when it was retitled “Tivoli” during the Second World War and began screening German made Nazi anti-semitic films. Sadly during this time, Abraham Tuschinski and most of his family were deported to Auschwitz, never to return. The theater name was changed back to Tuschinski in 1945 and used for many concerts starring big names of the day such as Judy Garland, Marlene Dietrich, Dizzy Gillespie and Fats Domino. More changes came in more recent years when the theater was renovated to its original style between 1998 and 2002 and expanded to add more auditoriums. Today, the theater goes by the name Pathé Tuschinski and the Grote Zaal has a capacity of only 784, however, five additional screens can accommodate 105 to 191 more patrons each.
As I walked through this incredible, historic theater, I was moved at how much attention to detail and thought could be put into a place of business and I imagined that I would see movies more often if I could come to a place so extraordinary.
As I returned my audio guide and collected my complimentary cup of tea, I checked the time schedule and discovered that “The Greatest Showman” was playing later in the day.
What I did find, however, is that the Katten Kabinet offers a look at the role of the cat in art and culture throughout the centuries, displaying hosts of art in the forms of posters, original paintings and sculptures paying homage to cats. The most interesting display, however, was a host of letters written to the museum and its cats from other cat lovers expressing their love of felines!
Founded in 1990, by William Meijer, a wealthy Dutchman, the museum pays homage to his feline companion, John Pierpont Morgan (1966-1983) and is housed in a structure that commands more attention than the collection displayed in it. Built in 1667, for William and Adrian Van Loon, the museum faces the historical Museum Van Loon, an identical floorplan, just across the canal. After a draw, which decided which of the brothers were to receive either of the homes, it was William who acquired the property at 497 Herengracht. Throughout its history, the house has hosted several famous people, such as the Mayor of Amsterdam, Jan Calkoen and former American president, John Adams. It has been rebuilt and redecorated several times, though most of its current state represents the 19th century.
After walking through a couple of the rooms in the museum, I finally did encounter two of the five cats that are reported to live on the premises. Stretched out on a window sill, a black and white feline stared impassively at the visitors wandering through its home. A short while later, another mostly white cat paced back and forth behind a glass-pane doorway, obviously hoping to be released from its confines by the owner who currently resides on the top floor.