Some of the best views of Zurich can be found from Lindenhof Hill.
Lindenhof’s lofty location, atop the remains of a glacier, made it the prime location for the Roman’s to build a citadel during the years of Valentinian. This fortification was used as a line of defense against migration from the North by the Alamanni. Outfitted with ten towers and thick, two meter wide walls, it eventually became the fortification of the historical center of Zurich, rising twenty-five meters above the Limmat River.
Over the years, many other types of construction were situated on the hill, including a chapel and a royal residence. Graves of late medieval children and adults were also found in 1937 by archaeologists.
Finally, with the demolition of the royal residence, the hill became the only public park within the city walls, where residents met and bow and crossbow shooting were practiced. A variety of trees and plants were instilled in the park and in 1688, the Hedwig Fountain, sculpted by Gustav Siber, which depicts the legend of the siege of Zurich (1292), was erected in the park.
In 1851, the Masons purchased the adjacent Paradies building and converted it into a lodge. In 1865, the park was redesigned and chestnut and acacia trees introduced. The local population was not happy with its new look and in 1900, the park was given its present appearance.
Today, the park is a popular meeting spot and the location where numerous public events and festivals are held. Some of the best views of the city can be had here so on any given day, a large number of tourists can be found in the park, enjoying the beautiful Swiss buildings and clear river below.
The adjacent streets are closed to automotive traffic and it is a short walk to the church of St. Peter’s and the Fraumunster from Lindenhof Hill.
If you are new to visiting to visiting the city and want to first get your bearings, take a hike up the hill to Lindenhof park. You can get a lay of the land and then take the short walk to the other landmarks of the city.
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A couple of years ago, I visited the Fraumünster, one of Zurich’s four main churches. One of the city’s highlights, it boasts windows by Marc Chagall and a rose window by Augusto Giacometti. It is a historic site visited by thousands each year.
As much as I enjoyed my visit to the historic church, however, what is just next door to the Fraumünster is what is really the what visitors should come for!
Fraumünster
Recently, a friend and I were walking past the Fraumünster, admiring its blue clock tower spire and carvings on the outer walls. Just past the church, we came to a gate and what appeared to be a cloister. Venturing inside, we discovered, that this was indeed the cloister from the ancient abbey.
The cloister was built at the end of the 12th century and moved to the present location in the 19th century. The Fraumünster church, next door, was built over the remains of the monastery around 1250.
As compelling as is a visit to the Fraumünster, it is the peaceful cloister’s origins that I found fascinating. In 853, King Ludwig of Germany’s two daughters, Bertha and Hildegard, lived in Baldern castle, high above the city. The extremely pious sisters would make their way down through the dark forest to the Grossmünster to spend time in prayer each morning and worship before the relics of Saints Felix, Regula and Exuperantius. Legend has it, however, that one day, the sisters encountered a stag with burning antlers in the darkened forest that led them down to the River Limmat across from the Grossmünster. After the encounter repeated itself many times, the sisters finally understood that it was a sign from God urging them to oversee the construction of a religious sanctuary for women at the edge of the river. King Ludwig was persuaded by his daughters to begin the fabrication and eventually appointed his daughters as the first abbesses.
This is the Legend of the Deer With the Lighted Horns and the fresco depicting this story can be spotted in the cloister along with many other amazing scenes painted by Swiss artist Paul Bodmer between 1924 and 1934.
Only a few other tourists walked through the cloister with its small central garden, flanked by two corridors, covered by beautiful Gothic arches. Other murals depicted the figures of Felix and Regula the patron saints of Zurich who are buried in the crypt beneath the Fraumünster and distinctive facial carvings can be spotted throughout the space on walls and atop columns.
A simple memorial was installed in the cloister on March 14, 2004 to honor Katharina von Zimmern, the last abbess of the Fraumünster Abbey. Created by sculptor Anna-Maria Bauer, the memorial consists of thirty-seven copper blocks layered into a compact square referring to the shape of an altar. There is also an engraved banner on the floor which states Die Stadt vor Unruhe und Umgemach bewahren und tun, was Zürich lieb und dienlich ist (to save the city from restlessness and surroundings and to do what is lovely and useful) referring to Von Zimmern’s handing over the convent to the reformation, thus stopping further bloodshed.
It was the legend of the deer, however, that kept bringing me back to inspect the murals more closely. What was it about Zurich and deer? There is another legend, involving King Ludwig’s grandfather, Emperor Charlemagne that tells how a stag led him to the graves of Saints Felix and Regula, but it was thinking back to a visit to Uetliberg, some time ago and remembering the large sculptural deer with lighted antlers lining the pathways. I had loved these strange tiled beacons, which represent what is an important part of Zurich’s history.
Whatever brings you to the Fraumünster’s cloister…be it the murals, the history, the tranquility or even the Legend of the Deer…know that you’ve stumbled across something extremely extraordinary!
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After visiting Zurich’s Predigerkirche, I was on a quest to make it to the last of the city’s four major churches that I had not visited before the end of the day.
The Church of St. Peter’s.
Problem was, there were so many photos to take in the beautiful Neumarkt area that I kept getting sidetracked!
Finally, crossing the river, it was easy to find the oldest parish church in Zurich. Standing on the former site of an ancient Roman temple to the god Jupiter, the church’s clock tower is said to be the largest in Europe and can be spied from most locations within the city. With a clock face measuring almost nine meters in diameter, it is an amazing site to behold!
Arriving at the church, we discovered, as did other tourists arriving at the same time, that the entrance was opposite of where we thought.
Making our way down the stairs, through the alley and back up another set of stairs, we finally found a courtyard with some interesting art pieces. Not even convinced that this was the entrance, we made our way inside to discover what makes this church interesting.
In 1345, the church was acquired by the city’s first mayor, Rudof Brun. His grave and monument can be seen by the outer tower wall. The first pastor, Leo Jud, served from 1523 until 1542 and contributed to the first translation of the Bible in Zurich. The church’s second pastor, J.C. Lavater, served from 1778 until 1801 and was so popular that people reserved seats for Sunday mass. His gravestone is in the courtyard, to the left of the entrance, on the church wall.
As I walked into the church, I noticed immediately the similarities between St. Peter’s and the Predigerkirche. The first church in Zurich that was built as a Protestant place of worship, after the Reformation during the eighth century, St. Peter’s exhibits the same elegant, simplicity although its tower and choir date back from a Romanesque church built in 1230.
During the Middle Ages, the short spire windows of the tower was the home of the town watchman, whose duty was to look out of the windows every fifteen minutes for signs of fire. Should a fire be spotted, he would sound an alarm and hang a flag out of the window facing the fire. Since Zurich, unlike so many other cities, never endured a major fire, the system worked well.
As I walked through the interior of the church, I took note of the three-aisled Baroque nave and the Romanesque choir that still contains some faded medieval murals. Above the pulpit, the name of God in Hebrew can be spotted, reflecting the Reformation emphasis on the original biblical languages. Another important feature of the church is the original 9th century foundation walls which can still be seen beneath the chancel.
In addition, St. Peter’s contains a baptismal font, dating back to 1598 and richly carved choir chairs from the 15th century. These chairs were transported to the church from the suppressed convents of the city. Make sure to take a look upward at the beautiful crystal chandeliers and the wood paneled gallery.
Even though, I initially thought that St. Peter’s was so very like the Predigerkirche, I learned from my visit that this church had a much richer history and much more to discover in its interior.
If you are taking a stroll through the streets of Zurich, take a look upward, find the largest clock tower and head that way! Its worth the visit!
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If you are a church lover (like me!) and visiting Zurich, there are four churches that are must-sees!
The Grossmunster, the Fraumunster, the Church of St. Peter and the Predigerkirche.
Cloudy, drizzly day aren’t optimal for day trips outside of the city so I decided, instead, to head toward the train station and into the old town area of Zurich to seek out the two churches I had never visited on previous trips.
The Predigerkirche, the Preacher’s Church, was first built in 1231 AD as a Romanesque church, the largest in the city and converted in the first half of the 14th century when the choir was rebuilt and the high bell tower was added. Originally part of a monastery of the Dominican Order, the church appears to have been modeled after the Basilica of San Domenico in Bologna which was the most important church of the Dominicans and where their founder, Saint Dominic was buried in 1221. The church is now used as the “open town church” or a place of encounter with its side aisles containing a library, easy chairs and a dining area for free Sunday lunches. It also employs a Catholic priest and celebrates joint masses with Muslims and Buddhists and is often the site of evening concerts.
With my excitement growing as I turned off of Limmatquai street and made my way up the hill, I could see the beautiful bell tower of the church which is regarded as the highest Gothic edifice in Zurich. As I arrived at the church on Zahringerplatz, however, I was a bit disappointed with the church’s plain facade. Though the high window-lined walls of the side and rear of the church were a bit more interesting, I simply could not believe that this was was the entrance, especially with its magnificent bell tower!
Entering the church, I was also a bit underwhelmed. Appearing to be elegant and modern at first glance, I began to walk around the space, hoping for more detail. The high arched ceiling caught my attention and lent to the lofty atmosphere along with the wide, square columns which divided the space. Although the ceiling was decorated with light gold rosettes and molding, it was quite disappointing combined with the plain altar. Beautiful in its own right…I guess I am used to the extravagantly decorated churches of Italy!
As I turned to the rear of the church, the magnificent organ in the gallery caught my eye. Now, this piece definitely gives the church a bit of extravagance. I had noticed that there were other smaller organs scattered throughout the church but this pipe organ, built by Paul Hintermann and Jakob Schmidt, is the showstopper. It was installed in 1970, after the original (1503) was broken during the Reformation struggle and the replacement (1879), was deemed unworthy.
Another piece that caught my eye along the outer perimeter of the church was the grave plate of Heinricus de Ruchentstein, a ministerial member of the House of Rappersil and dates back to 1270. The grave plate is the oldest surviving piece of this kind and the oldest surviving grave plate in Switzerland. It is notable due to its arrangement of the inscription, the absence of the date and a cross.
Exiting the church, I made my way out into the streets of the Neumarkt quarter. Though I was a bit disappointed with my time at the Predigerkirche, it was still an interesting visit and I was glad that I had made my way into this part of the city. Certainly, I couldn’t skip out on seeing the final two of the main churches of the city.
Now, it was off to find St. Peter’s!
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What do you do when you are in Switzerland and have eaten too many Swiss chocolates?
Get some exercise.
You can climb a mountain; Mount Rigis and Mount Pilatus are nearby. If it’s winter, you can ski; downhill or cross country are popular. If you are not keen on going too far, however, you can take a walk uphill from the city center, to the imposing medieval ramparts, the Museggmauer.
The Museggmauer has guarded Lucerne since the 14th century, has withstood the elements and the test of time and now attracts thousands of visitors each year. Well preserved, the wall measures over 2,854 feet in length and almost five feet wide. The height varies depending on the terrain, but averages approximately 27 feet. The wall has nine gates that are still intact, with four open to the public and a large part of the wall is navigable.
I must confess, I had made a note, while doing research on Lucerne, that this was something important to see, however, I wasn’t quite sure what it is that we were going to see…besides a wall which has been described as the defining line between city and country. We headed uphill until we reached the Museggmauer, admiring its impressive length and stature.
Spying a stairway up into one of the towers, the Schirmerturm, we decided to make the climb to see what it contained. The first towers, Dachliturm, Allenwindenturm, Pulverturm, to the east of Schirmerturm, are still standing, although at the time, I had understood that no access to the wall or towers is allowed past Schirmerturm. There wasn’t much to see inside the tower, but we peered out from the windows and admired views of the city. Realizing that we could walk outside the tower, we discovered a walkway on top of the wall leading to the other towers to the west. What I later learned was that although we weren’t able to walk along the top of the tower wall to the eastern towers, the towers are accessible, each offering information on the Wey-Guild, the Vereinigung Luzerner Maskenfreunde (VLM), Club of Luzern Mask, the Tambouren Club and the Luzern Carpenters Union.
Schirmerturm
The Zytturm was next along the wall and contains the oldest clock in Lucerne. Constructed by Hans Luter in 1535, the clock chimes one minute before any other clock in the city. Despite the main clock’s maturity, the stone weights and pendulum still keep time precisely. We were able to move throughout the tower and see the inner workings of the timepiece as well as examine the exhibition of historic clocks dating from between the late Middle Ages and the 20th century.
Zytturm
The third tower open to the public is the Wachturm or the Watch Tower. The tower that stood here originally, the Heuturm, was destroyed in 1701 when lightening struck the tower, igniting the gunpowder stored within. The explosion damaged the adjacent wall, houses in town and five people were killed. The Watchtower was built immediately after the disaster, but only given its name in 1768, when the guard room was moved from the Luegislandegg to this one. Today, you can glean information from the ornithologic society about the live birds around the Museggmauer and the protection of bats in the district of Lucerne.
Wachturm
Passing the Lugislandturm, we continued on our way to the final tower open to the public, the Mannliturm. Of the four accessible towers, this was my favorite. Making our way up the 138 steps to the top, we discovered the statue of a little soldier (Mannli) which sits atop one of the two spires and is quite famous throughout Switzerland. It was here, from this ancient tower built in 1327, that we had the best views of the city, the surrounding mountains and the sparkling lake.
Lugislandturm
Mannliturm
Exiting the Mannliturm, we were able to observe the last tower on the wall, the Nolliturm from the outside while on our way back into town.
Nolliturm
The Museggmauer is truly one of the gems of Lucerne. With its free admission and rich history, it is something not to be missed, especially for its birds’ eye views of the beautiful Swiss city.
Make the climb.
Take the walk.
Enjoy the nine towers.
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Walking along the River Reuss, between the ancient bridges that traverse the waterway, I looked over…
and spied a cross across the river…topping a church.
The Jesuit church, with its recognizable onion domed bell-towers, governs the left bank of the river. The first Baroque church built in Switzerland, it is also considered to be one of the most beautiful. Designed by Italian and Austrian architects, under the guidance of Jesuit Father Christoph Vogler, construction began in 1666 and the church was consecrated a short eleven years later. Though the interior was still lacking, the shell and main facade were completed. Upon the time of consecration, several side altars were still missing as well as the high altar and the towers were finally completed in 1893.
A major tourist attraction, I anticipated seeing throngs of people entering and exiting the building, however, all was quiet in front of the church, leading me to expect to find the doors locked. Surprisingly, I found them open and made my way into the beautiful interior.
When in Lucerne, it is best to cross the river and view the church from the other side of the river to admire the simplistic nature of its facade. As you enter, however, make sure to reexamine the facade from a closer perspective. It is over the entrance door where you can find the beautifully carved statue of the Jesuit missionary Saint Francis Xavier, the patron saint of the church.
Inside the church it is light and airy with gray and rose colored relief decorations embellishing the white interior. The nave, leading to the altar, displays a decorated vaulted ceiling depicting the glory of Saint Francis Xavier. At the front of the church is a grand altar-piece made of pink marble…or so you think. Upon closer inspection, you realize that it is actually made of plaster and stucco, a process perfected in the southern Alps where marble is difficult to transport.
As I turned to gaze back at the way that I came, I was able to see the main Metzler organ, built from 1980-1982, with parts from an organ dating back to the 18th century. This organ is frequently used for recitals held in the church.
Enjoying the side chapels, the most interesting I discovered is dedicated to Brother Klaus, a famous Swiss patron, whose life-sized statue stands clothed in a brown monk’s habit.
While the church no longer provides an important religious life, with the adjacent monastery college being abandoned, it does provide tourists with a destination within the Alstadt and both locals and visitors with a magnificent concert venue which comes alive with the sensational acoustics.
If you are in the mood to pray, reflect or admire…check out the Jesuit Church in Lucerne, one of its architectural gems.
Efficient and far-reaching, it’s easy to go out and explore all that the country has to offer.
Having recently gotten a taste of venturing out to another city in Switzerland, I was ready for more! So…it was off to the train station to see what else I could discover.
The winner on this particular day?
Lucerne. Located only an hour from Zurich, it is an easy trip, albeit expensive, for the short time I had to spend there. The small city is known for its preserved medieval architecture, imposing mountains and beautiful Lake Lucerne.
History, architecture and nature! I couldn’t wait!
As we arrived at the modern train station, we anxiously peeked out in hopes that the blues skies that had been promised in the forecast were visible above.
No such luck.
A cool afternoon, it was quite overcast, the dim gray skies exaggerated by the dwindling light of the approaching winter season, yet, we anxiously ventured out, eager to see what the city would present.
When I had researched the Swiss city, the picture that I came across most often was of the beautiful bridges that span the River Reuss in the colorful Alstadt (Old Town).
This is what I most wanted to see and as luck would have it, they were extremely close to the station.
A quick two minute walk, past the archway (welcoming us to Lucerne) and a festive carousel brought us to the river. Just like in the pictures, here it was…the Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge)! I was aware that the bridge was beautiful from its exterior, yet when we set foot inside, I found out that so much more was to be discovered.
The 17th century, covered, diagonal footbridge links the Aldstadt to the Reuss River’s right bank. Destroyed by fire in 1993, it has been restored to it original beauty and is the oldest wooden, covered, truss bridge in Europe.
Named after St. Peter’s Chapel, located nearby, the bridge gives off the feeling of an ancient church, with its dark wood structure and ancient wood paneled paintings. These paintings, dating back to the 17th century, were created by local Catholic painter, Hans Heinrich Wägmann, during the Counter-Reformation. Though most of the originals, depicting events from Lucerne’s history, were destroyed in the devastating fire, about 30 were fully restored and command your full attention, sometimes requiring you to step to the side to allow those traversing the walkway to pass, while you spend a few moments studying each panel. These panels display the life and death of Lucerne’s patron saints, St. Leger and St. Maurice.
Also part of the bridge complex is the Wasserturm, or water tower, which stands proudly in the waters of the Reuss. Built about 30 years before the bridge’s construction, the tower has served as a prison, torture chamber and a municipal archive. Today, the tower houses a local artillery association and a tourist gift shop, however, it does not host visitors, except those seeking Swiss mementos.
Truly the symbol of Lucerne, I was awe-struck by the Kapellbrücke’s grand beauty, enhanced by the bright pink flowers that line its periphery. Once we crossed the bridge, assisted some beautiful young Japanese travelers with memorable photos and grabbed a quick beer in the nearby pub, it was time to head up the river to the other venerable structure which crossses Lake Lucerne’s tributary.
Linking the left and right banks of the River Reuss is the Spreuerbrücke. The Spreuerbrücke, or Spreuer Bridge, earning its name from the chaffs of wheat which were thrown in the river here, dates back to 1408 and was part of the city’s fortification. The bridge was constructed to connect the Mühlenplatz (Mill Place) on the right bank with the mills in the middle of the river.
From 1626 and for the next nine years, Kaspar Meglinger decorated the triangular panels in the bridge with 67 paintings that represent the Danse Macabre, leading everyone to understand that death is everywhere. Forty-five of the originals are still in existence today and contain the coat of arms of the donor in the lower left corner and coat of arms of the donor’s wife in the right. These paintings also contain portraits of the donors and explanations and the names of the donors.
Not the original bridge, the Spreüerbrucke was destroyed in 1566 by floodwaters but rebuilt with an added grain storehouse as the bridge head called the Herrenkeller. A small chapel can also be found in the middle of the bridge, a spot also marked with a crucifix mounted on the outside of the structure.
After crossing the Spreüerbrucke, though we wandered alongside the river, the third bridge was not to be found…the Hofbrücke, which once existed, was demolished in the 19th century.
Life in Lucerne revolves around its proximity to water as is evident by the Old Town’s location on the river’s banks. It’s easy to spend time perusing the historic homes, embellished with frescoes, that line the waterfront, browsing the watch and souvenir shops or dining at one of the many restaurants while watching joggers run by and swans glide gracefully in the clear, glacial water.
Though there was much more to explore in lovely Lucerne, I was glad that we had started with the bridges, the symbols of the city. Yet, our day wasn’t over. We had so much more to discover!
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Sometimes you feel as if you have seen all there is to see in a city, even though you haven’t.
Take the time to move on for a while and come back later.
Maybe because I always seem to be in Zurich on Sundays, when everything is closed, is why I always feel as if there is nothing to do. So, sometimes, I dread my trips to the Swiss city if I will be there on the seventh day of the week. Not to say that there isn’t more to see, I just never seem to be there when it is available.
Having explored much of the city near the lake and the Old Town, I had grown a little tire of that area (Gasp…yes, I said that!) and was interested in finding another part of the city (or even country) to investigate.
Since I was going to have some time in Zurich during the beautiful crisp days of Fall, I decided that I was going to venture out of the city to see what I could find.
A friend of mine from Schaffhausen suggested that I take the train to the Rhine Falls if the weather was nice.
Arriving to bright sunshine, I decided to forego my nap, head to the train station and find my way to what is described as the largest waterfall in not only Switzerland, but Europe!
Located on the High Rhine, the falls are 492 feet wide, 75 meters high and were formed approximately 14,000 to 17,000 years ago by erosion-resistant rocks narrowing the riverbed.
Deciding to make a connection in Wintertur in order to keep the ticket price a bit lower, I boarded the train and watched the rolling hills fly by until I arrived in my connecting station. As luck would have it, my connecting train was on the next track and I was quickly on my way to my final station.
About an hour after I departed, I was arriving in Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall.
Since I had arrived on the southern bank (the paid side), I purchased my ticket using the automated machine and passed through the turnstile making my way down the shady path. The sound of the water guided me along the trails and at each viewing platform, I relished the beautiful views, each one surpassing the previous.
As I made my way toward the falls, I was thrilled to discover an opening in the rocks, leading to a cave opening up directly to the falling water…the air moist and the roar of rushing water deafening in the small space! Despite the low lighting, it was an amazing photo opportunity and a unique perspective of the natural phenomenon.
Following the winding path back toward the way I had come, I continued onward until reaching the boat dock. Here I analyzed the different boat tours offered. The first option a 15 minute ride would bring me right in front of the falls (7.00 CHF) and the second, a 30 minute minute ride provided a stop at the tall rock in the center of the falls with a viewing platform at the top (20.00 CHF). Since I was toting my expensive camera and didn’t want to get wet on the cool afternoon, I opted for the short tour.
Boarding a boat (included in tour price), I crossed the Rhine and disembarked on the other side, moving to the boarding area for Tour 4, with the boat captain calling for boarding a few minutes later.
Pulling away from the dock, we sailed away into the river, along north bank and passed so near the falls that the mist descended upon us quickly. Despite getting a little wet, however, the views from this vantage point were remarkable, exhibiting the magnificent power of the raging waters.
During my fifteen minute expedition, we cruised back and forth in front of the falls allowing me to get some amazing photos and also see what I missed by not venturing to the top of the rock in the middle of the river. Everyone at the top of the rock was wearing ponchos and their hair was quite damp! It made me (and my camera) glad that I chose the shorter (and cheaper) boat tour.
As the boat deposited me back at the dock, I decided to walk along the shore and see what else was offered.
There were food trucks and restaurants offering a vast array of food and drink and a beautiful path along the waterway. Meandering slowly so that I could enjoy the views and the sunshine, I soon shed my coat and took a seat on one many benches placed strategically so that visitors could relax and enjoy the spectacle that the falls offer.
Continuing on my way, I came to the 17th century mill, which once contained a blast furnace for smelting iron ore in the limestone. In operation until the first half of the 19th century, it now offers beautiful photo opportunities though nothing more.
Once again, on my way, I discovered pathways leading both into the town of Schaffhausen and up the steep embankments toward the railway bridge leading back to the Schloss Laufen. Since I wasn’t sure how to retrace my steps back to Zurich from the Schaffhausen train station, nor whether my ticket would be valid, I headed toward the bridge, positive that it would take me back to the station in which I had arrived.
The pathways were shady and well kept with many overlooks offering outstanding views of the falls from different perspectives and I took my time to enjoy them all. Finally, I arrived at the railway bridge and happily found a pedestrian walkway leading toward Schloss Laufen.
The castle, a seat of the barons of Laufen has a rich history including the ownership by grand nobility. Once operating as a wine tavern, the castle has also offered rooms as a youth hostel since 1946. Though I didn’t venture inside, I did walk the grounds of the castle, the cemetery and the nearby church, even poking my head in for a quick prayer for a safe trip back to Zurich.
Heading back to the platform, it was time to make the hour’s journey back to Old Town and a warm dinner, despite the exhaustion I was starting to feel due to lack of sleep.
So…was heading out of the city to the Rhine Falls worth the hour’s journey?
Absolutely!
Witnessing nature’s beauty first hand…so worth the lack of sleep!
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Address: Rheinfallquai 32, 8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
Hours: Northern banks, Neuhausen am Rheinfall/Schaffhausen, free access 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. Southern banks with Schloss Laufen, Dachsen/Zurich, viewing platform access open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Souvenir Shop/Ticketing/Historama, June, July and August, 0800-1900. September, October, April and May, 0900-1800. November, February and March, 0900-1700. December and January, 1000-1600.
Admission: Northern banks with Schlössli Wörth, Neuhausen am Rheinfall/Schaffhausen, free admission. Southern banks with Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall, Dachsen/Zurich, 5.00 CHF per person. Included in the ticket price, access to the Historama and the viewing platforms. Children, ages 6-15 years, 3.00 CHF. Groups, 15-29 persons, 3.00 CHF per person. Groups, more than 30 persons, 2.00 CHF. Prices, 1 CHF is equal to 1 USD.
Boat Tours: Short Tour, 15 minutes, Adults, 7.00 CHF, Children, ages 6-16, 4.00 CHF. Long Tour with stop at the rock, 30 minutes , Adults, 20.00 CHF, Children, ages 6-16, 15.00 CHF. Audioguide Tour, 30 minutes, Adults, 10.00 CHF, Children, ages 6-16, 7.00 CHF
Getting There: Direct trains are available from Zurich HB to Schloss am Laufen and Schaffhausen. Connections can also be made in Wintertur (prices lower with connection). When arriving in Schaffhausen, the Rhyfall Express train runs between the historic old town and the falls and takes approximately 20 minutes.
On the southeast bank of Lake Zurich lies a wonderful little secret…The Chinese Garden. One would never expect to find a Chinese garden in Zurich, but I promise you, it’s there…everyone loves a secret garden, right?
In 1994, as a gift from Zurich’s sister city, Kunming, the China Garden was opened. The garden was given to Zurich in gratitude for the help Zurich provided in restoring Kunming’s water facilities. The garden, considered one of the highest ranking gardens outside of China, is not what you would expect to find in the Swiss city, however, its unmistakable Chinese roof and red wall stand out along the promenade.
Three Friends of Winter, the garden’s major theme of Chinese culture, depict the pine, the bamboo, and the winter cherry together, braving the cold season.
Although very small, the garden is bright and tranquil with many places to sit and meditate. The structural design of the garden is based on three key principles, the arrangement of structural objects (building, artificial lake and rock formation), the layout (layout and walls) and the movement in the garden (paths and passages).
Scaffolding is present while some renovation is being done on the buildings, however, it is still pleasant to see and experience all that the garden has to offer. Informed by the attendant that no more than 10 minutes would be required to see everything, we stayed for almost 45 minutes, photographing and walking around the premises and through the buildings. In a city where everything is quite expensive, I would consider the entrance fee a fair price to experience something so unique!
Located between Bellerivestrasse and Blatter meadow at Zurich Horn on the right bank of Lake Zurich, it is located adjacent to a park and a children’s playground. Toilet facilities are available close by.
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After returning from our Üetliberg expedition, my son and I ventured out from the Hauptbahnhof into the city. Zurich, relatively quiet on a Sunday, was perfect for a walk along the River Limmat toward two of Zurich’s well-known churches.
Fraumunster clock tower
First on our list was Zurich’s Fraumünster Church, (The Church of Our Lady) founded in 853 by Louis the German. Built on the remains of a former abbey for aristocratic women, it now belongs to the Evangelical Reformed Church of the Canton of Zurich and is one of the four main churches of Zurich, the other’s being Grossmünster, Prediger and St. Peter’s church.
Easily visible for its slender green peak and clock tower, the Fraumünster stands out along the River Limmat. While the interior is not as ornate as other churches throughout Europe, visitors flock to this world famous church to see the five large stained glass windows designed by Russian-born artist Marc Chagall.
Three of Chagall’s stained glass windows
Installed in 1970, in the choir of the abbey, each window has a dominant color and depicts a Christian story. The five works are, Prophets, showing Elijah’s ascent to heaven, Jacob, depicting his combat and dreams of heaven, Christ, displaying various scenes of Christ’s life, Zion, illustrating an angel trumpeting the end of the world and Law, with Moses looking down upon the suffering of his people. Also worth noting is the impressive stained glass in the North transept created in 1940 by Augusto Giacometti, nephew of the famous Swiss abstract artist, Alberto Giacometti. A sign near the entrance advises visitors that no pictures are allowed inside the church, however, a few were taken discreetly.
Church interior
Church interior
Stained glass by Augusto Giacometti
Grossmünster
Just across the river, the 12th century Romanesque ex-cathedral, Grossmünster was next on our list. Located in the Grossmünsterplatz, its twin towers soar above the other buildings in this area of Zurich. The Grossmünster, much like the Fraumünster, is not very ornate and quite bare. No statues and paintings decorate its interior, only a few faded frescoes. The pulpit was added in 1851 and the organ in 1960.
Church interior
Stained glass by Augusto Giacometti
Not to be outdone by the Fraumünster, stained glass windows were commissioned by Augusto Giacometti and Sigmar Polke. Giacometti’s window depicting the Three Magi bearing gifts to the Virgin and child has reigned in the choir since 1933. In 2009, German artist, Sigmar Polke, crafted seven windows in the nave from thinly sliced agate. The brilliantly colored result was then expanded with five glass windows featuring Old Testament figures. The scapegoat, Isaac, the Son of Man, Elijah and David all move in the direction of the birth of Christ and thus toward the window created by Giacometti.
Stained glass by Sigmar Polke
Stained glass by Sigmar Polke
A trip down to the Grossmünster’s crypt is also recommended as it is the largest in Switzerland. Here, you can now see the 15th century stone statue of Charlemagne, whom legend tells us is the founder of the church. The statue once stood atop the south tower and is now replaced by a replica. As with the Fraumünster, photos were not allowed in the Grossmünster.
Crypt
As a frequent church “tourist”, I must say that these two churches were nice to occupy a couple of hours on a Sunday, when there is not much else to do in downtown Zurich. Not bowled over by extraordinary beauty as I have experienced in other cities, they are mostly to be appreciated for their architectural prevalence. If you respect and value art, however, time should be taken to behold the artistry of the world famous stained glass in both churches.
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Hours: March 1 thru October 31, 1000-1800, November 1 thru February 29, 1000-1700. On Sundays and holidays, the church will open after services at 12 noon.
Admission: No charge
Getting there: 5 minute walk from Hauptbahnhof (Main Station)
Grossmünster
http://www.grossmuenster.ch/de/
Address: Grossmünsterplatz, 8001 Zürich
Hours: Daily except Sundays, March thru October, 1000-1800, November thru February, 1000-1700. Sundays, open after services.
Admission: No charge
Getting there: 5 minute walk from Hauptbahnhof (Main Station)
