old town – Snapping The Globe

Adventures in New Mexico Part 4-Settlements, Staircases and Sweeping Views

With great excitement, we set out early to see what the oldest capital city in the United States would offer. Already having experienced some of Santa Fe’s artistic qualities, we also desired to delight in some of its culinary offerings and encounter its many historical monuments and architecture.

With forest fires burning in the north and to the east, we were not sure how Santa Fe would be affected. Placing a call to the Santa Fe Visitor’s Center, we were assured that there was no smoke blowing toward Santa Fe. While it would have been easy just to head to head to Santa Fe’s Old Town, where many monuments were located, we wanted to head seventeen miles to the east first, to the settlement that was located on the historic Santa Fe trail.

Pecos National Historical Park encompasses thousands of acres which include prehistoric archaeological ruins to 19th century ranches to battlefields of the American Civil War. What I most wanted to see, however, was its notable feature, the Pecos Pueblo known as Cicuye Pueblo, a Native American community abandoned in historic times. Designated as a national monument in 1965, it was enlarged and renamed in 1990 to include two sites within the park, the pueblo and the Glorieta Pass Battlefield.

As we headed southeast on Interstate 25, we noticed an electronic sign at our exit noting the fires in the area. Concerned that circumstances had changed since our conversation with the Santa Fe Visitor’s Center, we almost turned back, but decided to continue on. Thankfully, we later learned that the Battlefield area was closed due to fires in the proximity, but the National Historical Park was open.

*Peco’s National Historical Park* *Visitor’s Center*

Starting our explorations in the Park Visitor Center, we learned how the early Indian Settlement once appeared and some aspects of its history through exhibits, artifacts and a short introductory film. We then headed out onto the 1.25 mile loop behind the Visitor’s Center.

The trail, lined with cactus, flowers and dry scrub, led us past ancient rock walls, critters, the remnants of ancient kivas, pueblo foundations and lots of rattlesnake warning signs! We were even able to descent into a preserved kiva which gave us an understanding of all of the other opens ones we had seen at Chaco Canyon. Finally, however, we encountered the remains of the last church that the Spanish completed in 1717.

While the Spanish sought to conquer and acquire great wealth, the Franciscan missionaries sought to amass converts. The first church was constructed between 1617 and 1621 but was located a fair distance from the pueblo. In 1625, another mission church was constructed 600 feet south of the pueblo and had an attached Convento which acted as storage, work rooms and living areas for the missionaries. While the construction was funded and supervised by the Franciscans, the Pecos people provided the labor, however, received no pay. Eventually, this forced labor and poor treatment led to the Pecos people joining nearly thirty other pueblos in a revolt against the Spanish Empire in 1680. At this time, the Church and Convento were burned to the ground. A smaller church, the one whose remains still stand today, was built on the rubble and completed in 1717.

The red adobe walls of the church set against the clear blue sky made from some beautiful photos, however, as we scanned the nearby mountains, we spotted smoke rising from the nearby ridges reminding us that the area was experiencing a devastating disaster.

Finally making out way back to the Visitor’s Center, we headed out to the Santa Fe Trail and back to Santa Fe. Spying an opportunity to grab some lunch before heading into Old Town, we stopped at a location of Blake’s Lota’ Burger. We had spotted other locations during our travels and decided to find out what made this New Mexico chain, established in 1952, so special. Green Chiles…grown, harvested and flame-roasted in Hatch, New Mexico and placed on their freshly made beef hamburgers. It was delicious and hit the spot, readying us for our explorations of Old Town.

While Old Town is very quaint, parking is a bitch! It took quite a bit of driving around near the main square before we secured a parking spot. Feeding the meter for a couple of hours, we then walked the few blocks to the plaza. The plaza was much larger than Albuquerque’s, also with a bandstand, surrounded by buildings and serves as the historic center’s heartbeat. Numerous artisans filled the covered porticos surrounding the plaza, hawking their wares, and visitors flocked here hoping to find a good deal and grab some respite from the sun.

*Santa Fe Old Town Art and Architecture*

As we walked through the square and then the old streets, admiring the art and architecture, we finally arrived at the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. Commonly known as Saint Francis Cathedral, it was built between 1869 and 1886 on the site of an older adobe church, La Parroquia, which in turn had been built on the site of an older church built in 1626 and destroyed in the 1680 Pueblo Revolt. Today, a small chapel on the north side of the cathedral is all that remains of the adobe church.

*Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi*

As we made our way through the cathedral, I kept feeling as though I had been there before. Though I know that I had not, I surmised that it was because it reminded me so much of the church I had grown up and gotten married in. Built in the Romanesque Revival style, it contained three naves, Corinthian columns and beautifully colored stained glass. What I loved most, however, was the Stations of the Cross. These wooden, framed paintings were modeled in the Spanish style, as also was the beautiful wooden, paneled altarpiece.

Making our way outside, we studied the façade and statues of Archbishop J.B. Lamy and St. Francis of Assisi, the cathedral’s patron saint. Behind the church was a small garden with other statues and a small park adjacent to the church. While I would have loved to stroll through the park, I found the gates locked as workmen were completing some renovations.

*Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi* *Statues*

Next on our list was another church, the Loretto Chapel. This small chapel was the first Gothic building west of the Mississippi and was patterned after Paris’ beautiful Sainte Chapelle. Built between 1873 and 1878, it is best known for its choir loft staircase. This circular staircase is considered “miraculous” because of its two complete spirals without center or side supports which defy engineering logic. Indeed, this amazing staircase takes center stage in the small chapel, but its beautiful altar and stunning architectural details also warrant inspection.

Next up, yet another church was on our radar. Located on the original route of the Santa Fe Trail (next to the New Mexico and Santa Fe Visitor Information Center) is San Miguel Church. This small adobe structure boasts the title of being the oldest church structure in the United States. The original adobe walls and altar were built by the Tlaxcalan Indians from Mexico under the direction of the Franciscan friars in 1610 to serve a small congregation of soldiers, laborers, and Indians who lived in the Barrio de Analco (now the national historic district of Santa Fe). In 1680, it was partially destroyed during the Pueblo Revolt and rebuilt in 1710 with some structural changes. During its lifetime, under Spanish, Mexican and American rule, it has served as a place of worship, an infirmary for Franciscan missionaries, a military chapel, a venue for talks, concerts and ceremonies and a sanctified space for Sunday Mass in Latin and English.

The small chapel offers up a spartan interior with a beautiful wooden beamed ceiling and an all-adobe altar containing a stunning carved and painted wooden altar screen (1798). In the adjacent museum, take note of the Statue of Archangel Michael (1709), which was carried throughout New Mexico to solicit donations for the chapel’s 1710 reconstruction, the painted cross-shaped sword and a painted wooden crucifixion.

Taking note of the time dwindling on our meter, we headed back to our parked vehicle and drove to the Historic Fort Marcy Park area. Finding a spot adjacent to the Thomas Macaione Park, we walked around the corner to find the stairway leading to the Cross of the Martyrs. This replica of the original cross located off of the Old Taos Highway, was erected in the early part of the 20th century to honor the twenty-one Franciscan priests who were martyred during the Pueblo Revolt. The uphill path is lined with plaques detailing the city’s history and from the top, with the cross towering above us, we had sweeping views of Santa Fe below.

Santa Fe has so much fill your days, it would have been welcome to spend a couple more days investigating the countless museums and galleries spread throughout the city. We had, however, seen most of what we had come to and it was time to head to southern New Mexico for more fun! So with no regrets, we headed back to our hotel for dinner and to rest up for the long drive ahead…and time to raise our sights to the skies on our way to Roswell!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Pecos National Historical Park

https://www.nps.gov/peco/index.htm
Address: Pecos National Historical Park, 1 Peach Drive, Pecos, NM 87552
Hours: Summer (Memorial Day until Labor Day), 0800-1800, daily. Visitor Center, 0800-1700. Winter (Labor Day until Memorial Day), 0800-1630, daily. Visitor Center, 0800-1600. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day.
Admission: free

Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi

https://cbsfa.org/
Address: 131 Cathedral Place, Santa Fe, NM 87501
Admission: free
Hours: Tuesday to Friday, 0930-1600 , Saturday, 0930-1700, Sunday, 0800-1200. Closed Mondays.

Loretto Chapel

https://www.lorettochapel.com/
Address: 207 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: Adults, $5.00 USD, Seniors (65 and over), $4.00 USD, Youth (ages 7-17), $3.00 USD, Children (under 7 years), free.

San Miguel Church

http://sanmiguelchapel.org/
Address: 401 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501
Hours: Monday 1300-1500, Tuesday-Saturday, 1000-1500, Sunday, 1200-1500. Docent History talks, Tuesday through Saturday, 1100 and 1400.
Admission: Closed November 20, 24 & 25

Cross of the Martyrs

https://www.historicsantafe.org/cross-of-the-martyrs
Address: 617 Paseo De Peralta, Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501
Hours: 0630-2200, daily
Admission: free

Adventures in New Mexico Part 3-The Cat’s Meow

What’s the saying…when something is very appealing?

It’s the Cat’s Meow!

With all there is experience in New Mexico, I can say that phrase it is most appropriate.

After the long drive to Chaco Canyon, you would thing that we would have wanted to sleep in on the next morning. No way! There was too much to see and do and then, we needed to get to Santa Fe!

Rising early, we packed up, check out and headed to Petroglyph National Monument, one of the largest petroglyph sites in North America. Since there are four different trail systems, we chose the trail that appeared to offer the most petroglyph viewing, Piedras Marcadas Canyon. Parking in the adjacent lot, we grabbed out water and headed out onto the trail.

*Petroglyph National Monument, Piedras Marcadas Canyon Trail*

The path was easy and flat, marked with guide lines on either side, to keep hikers off of the fragile desert growth. Before long, we found ourselves alongside the rocky hills that arose from the desert floor. It took a few moments to decipher what we were supposed to be looking for but we soon began to spot the images carved into the rocks.

The petroglyphs we spied were created by the ancestors of modern Pueblo people as far back as the year 1300, by carefully removing the desert varnish with hand-held stone tools to expose the lighter color of the basalt’s interior. Centuries of weathering cause the older petroglyphs to oxidize and darken. As we now knew what to look for, it soon became easier to spot the various human figures, animals and geometric designs along the one and a half mile route.

*Roadrunner petroglyph and real roadrunner perched on the rocks*

All in all, we spent about an hour and a half out and about before completing the circuit. Deciding that there was not enough time to do another trail, we moved on.

Next up was Old Town Albuquerque.

The downtown area is comprised of approximately 150 individually owned and operated businesses, situated around the main plaza, the square and birthplace of the city in 1706. This plaza reminded me so much of the ones found in many Latin American countries with numerous people lounging on the benches around the gazebo. With so many shops, restaurants and galleries in the immediate area, we took our time doing a little shopping, grabbing a bite to eat and taking lots of photos.

One of the places I wanted to see most was San Felipe de Neri Catholic Church, one of the oldest surviving buildings in the city and the only building in Old Town dating back to the Spanish colonial period. The current church replaced the original which collapsed during the winter of 1972. I would imagine the interior exhibited European qualities, but sadly it nor the museum were not open during our visit.

San Felipe de Neri Catholic Church

Keeping an eye on the clock as we were heading to Santa Fe, we found one more place of interest, the Breaking Bad Store ABQ. Although I had no knowledge of the television series, I thought that maybe there would be some interesting souvenirs for my sons. What we discovered, however, was that this was not only a store, but a small museum of sorts dedicated to the series Breaking Bad and its follow up, Better Call Saul. While most of it didn’t resound with me, it meant a lot for my son to see mementos and set props from the show. Recently, when my husband and I finally watched all five seasons of the series, it was fun to pull out the photos and understand what all of it meant. My favorite photo? Me dressed in the Los Pollos Hermanos uniform posed behind the restaurant counter!

With our time in Albuquerque coming to a close, we headed out to the highway, making our way to Santa Fe.

When my son had mentioned to his friends that we would be visiting New Mexico, the unanimous suggestion was to visit a place with a very strange name…Meow Wolf.

Meow Wolf, a relatively new experience in Santa Fe (established in 2016) is one of three similar interactive experiences located in the United States. Along with the other two, in Denver and Las Vegas, the explorable art encounter beckons visitors to explore rooms of immersive art. Santa Fe’s version, entitled House of Eternal Return offers 70 rooms which I could only describe as a mix between an art exhibit, escape room, a fun house and a maze.

As we parked, we glimpsed what we thought we might experience with its giant metal spider, robot and of course, wolf, in the parking lot! Although we had not purchased tickets prior to our arrival, we learned that we were lucky since it was a weekday that we were able to gain entry, not usual on busy weekends.

We began our explorations in the front part of the House, trying to read every piece of paper and attempting to decipher clues. There was a strangely dressed man standing in the stairway talking about missing children and we deduced that children from the storyline were missing. We also heard other speaking about finding hamsters. We did discover a few hidden in various places, but then we never quite understood what to do with this information.

Finally, we just decided to have fun and explore all the nooks and crannies. Once we relaxed about the whole affair, it was a great deal of fun just enjoying the unique and unusual artistry.

It was great fun to discover hidden passageways in refrigerators, fireplaces closets and clothes dryers. After exploring both floors of the house, we discovered in the living room a fish tank on a shelf and then a tunnel through the fireplace which led to a life size fish tank which we could walk through! This led to other parts of the exhibit where we encountered a giant neon dinosaur skeleton whose bones made music when you hit upon them, a forest with giant mushrooms and creatures that appeared to be out of the book Where the Wild Things Are, the crazy clown room decorated with recycled bottle caps, cans, compact discs and clown videos, a Chinatown alleyway and the “black and white room” complete with a monster under the sink! There was abstract art and abstract rooms, interactive games hidden away in dark corners and an EDM music room. There was a band playing in the back and walkways overlooking their stage. Everything was dark and bright at the same time and neon and black lighting was everywhere!

It is one of the hardest things to explain and one of the most unique places I have ever visited! I will definitely have to visit the ones in Denver and Las Vegas which are differently themed.

We realized that if this was our introduction to Santa Fe, we were in for a treat! Meow Wolf was definitely the Cat’s Meow or maybe you could say, the “Wolf’s Meow”!

For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Petroglyph National Monument

https://www.nps.gov/petr/index.htm
Address: Visitor’s Center, 6510 Western Trail, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Boca Negra Canyon, Atrisco Drive, NW, Albuquerque, NM 87120, Rinconada Canyon, 7601 St. Josephs Avenue, Albuquerque, NM 87120, 87114 Unnamed Cul de Sac, Albuquerque, NM 87120, Piedras Marcadas,
Address: Visitor’s Center, 6510 Western Trail, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Boca Negra Canyon, Atrisco Drive, NW, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Rinconada Canyon, 7601 St. Josephs Avenue, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Piedras Marcadas Canyon, 87114 Unnamed Cul de Sac, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Volcanoes Day Use Area, Western Trail NW, Albuquerque, NM 87120.
Hours: Boca Negra Canyon, 0830-1630. Rinconada Canyon 0800-1700. Piedras Marcadas Canyon, Sunrise to Sunset. Volcanoes Day Use Area, 0900-1700.
Admission: free

Old Town Albuquerque

https://www.albuquerqueoldtown.com/
Address: Old Town Road NW, Albuquerque, NM 87104
Hours: Most businesses open Monday-Saturday, 1000-2000, Sunday, 1100-1900. Most restaurants seat until 2100.
Admission: free

San Felipe de Neri Catholic Church

https://sanfelipedeneri.org/
Address: 2005 North Plaza NW, Albuquerque, NM 87104
Hours: 0900-1600, daily (unverified). Gift shop and museum, open from 1000-1630. Museum may not be open due to lack of docents.
Admission: free

The Breaking Bad Store ABQ

https://www.breakingbadstoreabq.com/
Address: 2047 South Plaza Street Northwest, Albuquerque, NM 87104
Hours: 1000-1700, daily. Closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas Day, New Years Day.
Admission: free

Meow Wolf Santa Fe

https://meowwolf.com/visit/santa-fe
Address: 1352 Rufina Circle, Santa Fe, NM 87507
Hours: Sunday, Monday and Thursday, 100-2000, Friday and Saturday, 1000-2200. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
Admission: Adults (ages 14 and up), $35, Children (ages 4-13), $20, Children (under 3), free, Seniors (ages 65 and up), $25, Military, $25.

Back to Dubrovnik, Day Seven in Croatia

All good things must come to an end, but better things may be in store.

Our time exploring other parts of Croatia was complete, but we were leaving beautiful little Hvar Town, heading back to the beautiful city of Dubrovnik and now we knew what to expect. There were many things we wanted to do and see, including our new friend, Ivusa.

The ferry ride was a bit longer this time, but included a stop to pick up and deposit other passengers in Korčula. Since I was able to grab a spot on the back deck as we made our way to the dock, I had prime viewing of the beautiful old city. Why didn’t we spend a few days here? Definitely next time!

Four hours later, after our departure from Hvar, we were disembarking in Dubrovnik and catching a taxi to the Old Town. Our Airbnb, this time, was within the Old Town city walls…in fact, it was adjacent to Stradun, the city’s main pedestrian street, so a bit more convenient in that we didn’t have to climb twenty-two billion stairs!

After depositing our luggage in our room, we were off!

The Dominican Monastery, just around the corner, was first on our list. Dating back to the 14th century, the monastery is one of the most important architectural landmarks in the city and contains a great number of paintings, artifacts, jewelry and other items from Dubrovnik’s history. Its bell towers are prominent when walking the walls of the city, however, these not quite being as old as the monastery itself. Begun in the 16th century, they were only completed in the 18th.

Within the monastery, is the Gothic church of Saint Dominic, usually richly decorated and filled with treasures including the large golden crucifix above the main altar from the 14th century. Under construction at the time, we had to use our imaginations in order to “see” what it usually presents. The monastery museum was also quite intriguing with its vast jewelry collection and paintings from the Dubrovnik art school from the 15th and 16th centuries.

*Treasures from the Dominican Monastery Museum*

Making our way through the abbey, we noted the Capital Hall, where the monastic community held its meetings, and the porches of the cloister which were added in the 15th century. Within the cloister is a rich green oasis complete with a stone well crown and I would imagine this was a favorite place for the residents to relax and enjoy nature’s beauty.

After our visit was complete, we walked a short distance, past the clock tower, to the Church of St. Blaise. The steps of this church is both a meeting place, due to its central location near the clock tower, and a resting place, perfect for people watching. We also noticed that many from the community congregate here, including the children, who play games on the steps and in Luza Square in front of the church.

The interior of this church did not disappoint my “church fascination” with its beautifully decorated golden altar, taking my breath away when I entered. Named after the patron saint of Dubrovnik, the church was built in 1715, by Venetian architect and sculptor Marino Gropelli on the foundations of a past Romanesque medieval church. This saint is featured on the main altar in gilt silver, crafted in the 15th century by an unknown master. In the saint’s left hand is a scale model of the Romanesque church which was destroyed by the earthquake of 1667 and he is flanked by two kneeling angels. This statue was the only one which survived the fire of 1706.

In front of the church is another of Dubrovnik’s landmarks, Orlando’s column. Unfortunately, this was under renovation and closed off by metal fencing. This tall and slender stone flag column is decorated with a depiction of a medieval knight, Orlando, who according to legend, helped the people of old Dubrovnik defeat invaders in the middle ages. A monument to freedom, it details the help aquired to remain a free trade city-state and acts as a flag holder which displays the Libertas (freedom) flag as well as the St. Blaise festival flag. An interesting note about the statue; the knight’s forearm is 51.25 centimeters long, the standard Dubrovnik measurement for fabric, where local merchants were measuring, cutting and selling fabric.

*Orlando’s Column courtesy of justdubrovnik.com*

A little further down the Stradun, we headed into the Franciscan Church. Much as I wanted to visit the Monastery and Museum, I decided to wait until the next morning as I thought that seeing another monastery was probably not what my husband had in mind. The church was a good compromise as the afternoon was nearing its end and he was anxious to start happy hour and revisit Lady Pipi restaurant which was near this location.

A large complex, consisting of the church, monastery, library, and pharmacy, belonging to the Order of the Friars Minor, was built in 1317, but with its construction taking centuries to complete. The original church was destroyed in the earthquake of 1667 and much of the complex was rebuilt several times with the only remaining element being the decorated portal which overlooks the main street.

The Baroque interior was stunning as we entered through the main doors with its diagonally patterned tile floor and and large, gilded chandelier. The main altar contained a statue of Christ between four twisted marble columns and the five side altars were sculpted by Venetian Giuseppe Sardi between 1684 and 1696. An important side note, we learned, is that poet Ivan Gundulić is buried in the church.

Continuing our explorations, we decided to see more of what lay beyond the gates. A short walk past the Pile Gate, through which we had entered earlier on our return, brought us past the Amerling Fountain, the overlook for the Beach Sulic, which we would later realize was the place Cersei Lannister on Game of Thrones would stand, the Imperial Hilton Hotel and almost to the Church of St. Elizabeth, a small chapel. Heading back to the Old Town, we wandered through its streets and alleyways appreciating the architecture and its beauty.

At this point, my husband was truly at the end of his touring mode…but I spotted the Church of the Holy Annunciation. Promising only a quick peek, I ducked in and inspected the Serbian Orthodox church which was constructed in 1887. Though I was only inside for a few moments, I learned later that this impressive church has a huge collection of icons dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries within its museum and an impressive library containing over 12,000 volumes, including a gospel in Russian printed in Moscow in 1805.

Finally, it was time for the long walk up the stairs for our grilled seafood platter “A La Pipi”!

“It’s about time!” said my husband. Long days definitely lead to good things!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Krilo Ferry

https://www.krilo.hr › en

Martecchini Airbnb Apartment

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/50272540?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=c510d4a5-f5a8-4855-9be3-9af683ff60c8
Address: Kovačka ulica 2, Dubrovnik, Dubrovačko-neretvanska županija 20000, Croatia

Dominican Monastery

https://www.dubrovnikcity.com/dubrovnik/attractions/dominican_monastery.htm
Address: Ul. Svetog Dominika 4, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: Adults, 30KN, Children, 20KN

Franciscan Church

Address: 4 Poljana Paska Milicevica, Dubrovnik, HR 20000
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: free

Church of the Holy Annunciation

Address: Od Pucha 8, Dubrovnik 20000 Croatia
Hours: 0900-1600, daily
Admission: free

Keep On Keeping On (To Kotor), Day Two in Croatia

Now we were gun shy. Or maybe you could say…car shy after our misfortunes driving in Dubrovnik. Who gets stuck on a bike path with a rental car?

Us…

Neither one of us wanted to touch that rental car with a ten-foot pole, much less drive it…and to another country at that. But, we had made a plan and we were determined to stick to it. Getting to the Airbnb, upon our arrival in Croatia, had proven to be a disaster. We had almost wrecked the rental car, gotten it stuck in a precarious position and now we were going to drive to Montenegro. Hmmm…okay. What else could go wrong?

Lots of things!

“Okay. I’ll open the gate. You step on the gas and shoot up that hill until you reach the top. I’ll meet you there,” I told my husband. This was the plan before the plan.

Huffing and puffing, I met my husband in the small parking lot at the top of the hill. He looked a bit nervous, as was I, but I pulled up my big girl panties and opened up Google maps and gave him the first instructions to Kotor, Montenegro.

Confident in the first twenty minutes of the drive, as it led us back to the airport, we had only about an hour and twenty to go from there. First, however, we had to cross the border into Montenegro. Since we had been informed by our car rental agency that a Green Pass (50 euro extra) was required to cross into other countries, we had that as well as our passports ready for inspection.

The border behind us, it was all smooth sailing until we reached the town Strp. We slowed down as we noticed a line of cars stopped on the highway. Waiting patiently and moving slowly forward, we suddenly realized that we were only moving as the police were directing people to turn around. The road was closed! Not sure what was happening or if it was going to be resolved at any time, we turned and headed back the way we had come. Stopping at a small restaurant, we decided that we would eat lunch and regroup. Alas, this would not go as planned either.

The restaurant was not serving food, so we just ordered sodas. When we decided to pay, we realized that we had missed something very critical…Montenegro uses the euro, which we did not have, and this restaurant would not take credit cards. Deep breath. With instructions from the waitress, I walked along the water to the nearest ATM, about ten minutes away, leaving my husband as collateral!

What we discovered on this little detour, however, was that I had noticed cars waiting to board a ferry in Kamenari. While we were having our drinks, I did a little internet searching and found out that we could take this car ferry across the Bay of Kotor and drive to the Old Town from the other side, so all was not lost!

Deciding to give it one more try, we headed to the ferry and got in line with the other cars. I jumped out and purchased tickets and then we were on the ferry making our way to Kotor after all!

*Waterfront near Kamenari and ferry across Bay of Kotor.*

While it took a little longer than we expected, we made it to Kotor and found a parking spot in one of lots that wasn’t very far from the Sea Gate of the Old Town.

What can I say about Kotor?

As we made our way inside through the Square of the Arms and past the Clock Tower, we secured a table for a quick lunch and noticed how immaculate and beautiful it was. There was piped in music. Not a speck of trash or a trash can in sight. What I felt like was that I was really in a new country at Epcot…it did not seem real! However, Kotor is not a new country…in fact, it was built between the 12th and 14th century and has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is one of the most beautiful and well-preserved medieval fortified towns in the Mediterranean.

Since we were so delayed, we realized that we had to make quick work of discovering what lay within this ancient walls.

While enjoying our lunch, we reveled in the sound of the bells at the nearby Saint Tryphon Cathedral, one of two cathedrals within the town. Beginning our exploration at this beautiful place of worship was a given as it lay only a few hundred feet from where we dined.

The Cathedral, dedicated to its protector of Kotor, Saint Tryphon, was consecrated on June 19, 1166. The Romanesque church has been restored from damages from past earthquakes, the most recent being 1979 Montenegro earthquake. The church contains numerous artifacts, including a valuable treasury containing a silver hand a cross decorated with ornaments and figures in relief. The main altar offers a depiction of Saint Tryphon, as well as a relief of saints in gold and silver. The relics of Saint Tryphon are kept in the cathedral and it is well known that while they were destined to be housed in Dubrovnik, however, while enroute from Constantinople, they did not get any further than Kotor.

After paying our entry into the cathedral (thank goodness we had those euros!), we made our way through the cathedral, both downstairs and upstairs, examining all that made it special, finally ending up on the balcony overlooking the phenomenal view of the Square of Tripuna.

*View from upper window in* *Saint Tryphon Cathedral*

*Upper balcony of* *Saint Tryphon Cathedral*

*Upper balcony and towers of* *Saint Tryphon Cathedral*

*Upper floor of Saint Tryphon Cathedral*

Winding our way through the narrow lanes and alleyways, where only foot traffic is allowed, we next found our way to the Orthodox Church of Saint Luke, situated on the Piazza Greca. With traits of both Roman and Byzantine architecture, the church was once used as a Catholic school but was then given to the Orthodox denomination to demonstrate the harmonious co-existence of the Catholic and Orthodox people. Because of this significance, the church has two altars, one Catholic and one Orthodox.

Nearby, was the Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas, located on St. Luke’s Square with its spectacular patterned tile. Built in the early twentieth century, in the Pseudo-Byzantine style on the foundations of an older building destroyed by fire in the nineteenth century, it consists of one-nave with a large cupola that towers over the nearby rooftops.

As we approached, we admired the two bell towers and the black domes topped by golden crosses, gifts from Russia and a beautiful mosaic situated above the entryway. Inside, the diagonal patterned floor led our eyes to the altar, framed with a wall of icons and religious paintings, the most important by Czech painter Frantisek Ziegler (1908).

Continuing our explorations, we visited the small Church of St. Michael’s. Tired of churches at this point, my husband opted to hang out in the square near the huge three-hundred year old poplar tree that occupies it, while I went in to get my church fix. While I had read that the ancient church, built between the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, had been repurposed as a lapidary, I found the opposite. Standing in the spot where previously stood a 9th century pre-Romanesque church, the interior displays many frescoes, dating back to the 9th and 11th centuries and best preserved in the apse. Artifacts exhibited in the church include ancient tombstones, capitals and coats of arms of Kotor providors. The most impressive sculpture is one from the 1st century AD, made of white marble and depicts the Roman emperor Domitian. It is one of only three surviving sculptures, depicting the emperor, in the world…there is a bust in the Louvre and a statue in the Vatican museum.

Realizing that I needed to find something more to my husband’s liking, we headed toward the Kampana Tower and the outer walls of the city. As we walked along the ramparts, we had outstanding views of the blue-green waters of the Škurda River at its base. The walls were built between the 9th and 19th century, although the rampart ring was closed in the 13th and 14th century. The walls stretch for over four kilometers, range from two to fifteen meters in thickness and reach a height of up to twenty meters.

*Kampana Tower and views along the outer walls of the city.*

We had views of a crumbling church tower and wall as well as the rear view of St. Nicholas’ black dome and towers. We also had a stunning perspective of Mount Lovćen. On this mountain, we could see the tiny figures of hikers making their way up the fortress trail. With about fifteen-hundred steps and over an hour to complete, we didn’t have the time or the proper shoes to make this climb. Apparently though, the views of Old Town, the Bay of Kotor and a visit to Our Lady of the Remedy, the fortress of San Giovanni and the Kastel Sv. Ivan are worth the hike.

As we made our way down off of the wall, we passed the Church of St. Mary Collegiate, walked through Milk Square and took a path around the back of Old Town. Ducking quickly into the tiny Montenegrin Orthodox Church for a quick look-see, we then found our way to the Gurdić Bastion (parts of which date from the 13th century) on the south end of town. The drawbridge stretches out over the Gurdić Spring.

Walking along the roadway, we headed back toward the Sea Gate. Entering the Old Town once again, we opted for a little shopping and some gelato before it was time to make our way back to Dubrovnik. As we were in the front of the Old Town, we learned that a bike race was finishing up. Could this be why the road was closed earlier? Not wanting to risk finding the road closed again, however, we decided to go back the way we had come…by ferry.

Aside from a little longer wait at the border, we made it back to Dubrovnik without incident, even making it down the hill into our Airbnb parking expeditiously! While I was happy to have had the time we did in Kotor, I wish that we had had more, even having had the time to spend the night.

Oh well, we will have to make another trip to Montenegro!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Old Town, Kotor, Montenegro

http://Stari grad, Kotor, Kotor Municipality 85330 Montenegro
Address: Stari grad, Kotor, Kotor Municipality 85330 Montenegro
Hours: 24 hours daily
Admission: free

Cathedral of Saint Tryphon

Address: Trg Sv. Tripuna 336, Kotor, Kotor Municipality 85330 Montenegro
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: 3 euros per person

Church of St. Luke

Address: Trg Sv. Luke, Kotor, 85330, Montenegro
Hours: 0800-2000, daily
Admission: free

Church of St. Nicholas

Address: Trg Sv. Nikole Stari grad bb, Municipality Kotor 85330, Montenegro
Hours: 0800-2100, daily
Admission: free

Saint Michael’s Church

Address: Square of Our Lady of the Angels, 85339 Starigrad Kotor, Montenegro
Hours: unknown
Admission: 2 euro

Montenegrin Orthodox Church

Address: unknown
Hours: unknown
Admission: free

Airbnb-Mery Room 1

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/42226101?source_impression_id=p3_1651936434_2otNyd3LEIY%2BmrVg

The Compact Chapel

Deep in the heart of San Juan’s Old Town, there are about a dozen churches scattered throughout. For church fanatics like me, it is a dream come true! Many are decently sized, but there is a compact one, a chapel, built on the city’s ancient stone walls.

One of the most photographed, the tiny Capilla del Santo Cristo de la Salud is located at the south end of Calle del Cristo. Constructed in 1753, the chapel is oft visited by locals and tourists alike and sits beside the Parque de Palomas, a gated park overlooking San Juan Harbor.

Many times, I have visited Old Town and walked past the chapel never to find it open. On this particular Sunday, however, luck was on my side as I learned it is only open on Sundays and particular holy days.

Legend has it that many years ago, there were horse races on Calle del Cristo. One of the riders, Baltazar Montanez, was galloping through the city at such a breakneck speed, he could not stop in time and tumbled over the city wall to his death. To commemorate his demise and prevent a similar occurrence, the chapel was built on the site.

Little did anyone realize how many visitors would descend upon the Chapel of the Holy Christ of Health to pray for cures and miracles. Tens of thousands come to the site, which contains a silver and gold leaf altar surrounded by oil paintings by Puerto Rican artist Jose Campeche and tiny silver milagros, which represent ailing parts of the body. But it is not just those of human form who come…there are hundreds of pigeons who descend upon its roof and front plaza!

The church is cared for by a group of local women, volunteers called “La Hermandad del Santo Cristo de la Salud” and you can care for the pigeons on your visit with birdseed available for purchase!

Truly one of the religious gems of the Old Town!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Capilla del Santo Cristo de la Salud (Chapel of the Holy Christ of Health)

https://www.discoverpuertorico.com/
Address: 1 Calle del Cristo, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
Hours: Saturday, 1200-1800 (unverified), Sunday, 1200-1800
Admission: free

Puerto Rico Pandemic Style

Covid 19 was something we didn’t see coming. It literally stopped us in our tracks.

Being in the travel industry, it prohibited me from doing my job as people were allowed to travel only for essential purposes only. While I could have remained employed, just getting to and from work proved to be problematic and it was easier to remain home.

After a year of lockdowns, however, things were starting to open up in the world and people were ready to put their toes in the water once again. Not able to travel across the pond, as Europe still wasn’t ready to welcome Americans, there were other locations that were eager to crack their doors…with a few restrictions.

As for me? I was ready to get back out there and return to work!

While many passengers weren’t even ready to sit for eight or nine hours in a metal tube with others whose inoculation status they were unsure of, they were willing to take shorter flights. Hence, the islands of the Caribbean became their go-to spot as evidenced by overbooked flights even with mandated tests to enter and depart.

Finding myself with a long layover in San Juan, I was a little unsure of what I would experience in the Puerto Rico capital during these first few months. Hearing stories of curfews and numerous restrictions, I packed my bathing suit, suntan lotion some just-in-case meal options and prayed that at least the beaches would remain open.

When I arrived, what I found at my bustling resort were pools and beaches filled to capacity with everyone happy and eager to enjoy the great outdoors and their first, in many cases, vacations in a pandemic world.

So, what would that mean when I left the resort and ventured into one of my very favorite places, Old San Juan?

Old San Juan, known for its cobblestoned streets, colorful Spanish colonial buildings and massive 16th century forts, bars and restaurants is also a busy cruise port which yields millions of dollars in revenue for the island along with millions of visitors. With no cruise ships docked at the piers and none of those passengers walking the streets, how was the old town faring?

As I watched the passing architecture from my Uber’s window, I wondered what it would be like making my way through the old town area…would shops, attractions and restaurants be open? My research had shown yes, to a degree, but just how many visitors would I encounter in the normally crowded city and how difficult would it be to wear a mask in the hot, humid climate, even outside, as was mandated?

As my driver dropped me off at Plaza Colon, the first thing I noticed was that many restaurants were not open and the ones that were, were closing fairly early. There would be none of the casual browsing in the countless shops as each only allowed three persons inside at a time, with lines slinking up the adjacent sidewalks. But the crowds one normally encounters, were not there.

Wandering the charming narrow streets, I fell into my normal routine of photographing the beauty that surrounded me. I rather enjoyed not having to wait for a group of tourists to pass so that I could get my photograph and when I finally decided to partake in Happy Hour, there were tables readily available.

I must admit, however, the mask was difficult. It was extremely hot, aggravated my asthma and I was not accustomed to wearing it for such long durations, especially in the outdoors.

Nevertheless, happy to be out and about, I made my way through the city, enjoying the architecture and city’s highlights.

Though I realized the impact of not having the number of visitors that the city was usually accustomed, it wasn’t too bad for me. If it weren’t for the masks, I could have been lost in my reacquaintance with the city, enjoying its sights and sounds. However, if I could have forgotten about the mask’s hinderance on my breathing, I think my overall experience would have been hiked up more than a notch. But there was definitely no forgetting…

I was sure to be reminded by some of Old San Juan’s landmarks.

Yes, this was Puerto Rico…pandemic style!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Old San Juan

https://sanjuanpuertorico.com/old-san-juan/

A Tale of Three Hotels

Throughout St. Augustine’s historic district, there are a great number of historic buildings that any tourist must seek out! But there are three hotels that date back to the city’s establishment as a destination for the rich and famous!

When Henry Flagler, millionaire American industrialist, founder of Standard Oil and the Florida East Coast Railway, arrived in St. Augustine in 1883 with his new wife, they found the hotel facilities and transportation systems to be inadequate. Flager, intrigued by the beautiful Villa Zorayda, offered to buy it for his honeymoon but was turned down by the owner, Franklin W. Smith. Determined to offer travelers a unique place to rest their head and enjoy the city, he began construction on the Ponce de Leon Hotel, which was completed in 1887.

The Spanish Renaissance hotel was the first of its kind, constructed of poured concrete and coquina stone and was one of the first buildings wired with electricity from the onset. The hotel was a huge success and shortly thereafter, Flagler opened the equally exquisite Alcazar across the street to accommodate the overflow of guests.

Each of the hotels attracted notable personalities including President Grover Cleveland, Mark Twain, President Theodore Roosevelt and Babe Ruth.

As Flagler expanded his railway line further south over the years, St. Augustine gave way to West Palm Beach and Miami as winter destinations, both offering warmer weather year-round. Due to travelers venturing further south, both hotels slowly succumbed to the decline in business and closed, eventually with the buildings being used for various purposes during the years after.

In 1968, the Ponce de Leon hotel became the centerpiece of the newly established Flagler College. Construction began in 1976 to restore the Ponce de Leon to its original grandeur and in 1998, the College began offering guided historic tours. It was added to the U.S. National Register of Historic Places in 1975 and became a U.S. National Historic Landmark in 2006.

The Alcazar, opened in 1889, was constructed in the Moorish-Spanish style with 300 guest rooms, Turkish and Russian baths, a magnificent casino, tennis courts and the largest indoor swimming pool in the nation. Closed in 1932, due to the national economic depression, it was purchased by Chicago publisher, Otto C. Lightner in 1947. Lightner converted the building into a hobbies museum which housed several collections, including his own extensive collection of Victorian era art. It was turned over to the city of St. Augustine and it was opened to the public in 1948.

While I had hoped to take the tour of Flagler College to see the former Ponce de Leon Hotel, I arrived to find that tours were temporarily suspended to the Covid restrictions. Sadly, I was only able to admire the exterior of the many buildings that make up Flagler College, however, this was not entirely a bad thing as it is like no other that I have ever seen. The buildings are quite beautiful as well as the immaculate grounds upon which they are situated.

Crossing the street to admire the Lightner Museum, I found the exact opposite situation. I had not planned to visit the museum, which was open, but I had learned through my Old Town Trolley tour guide that if a complete visit was not in your plan, then you at least needed to take a look at the courtyard, which is free to the public. What she said was most accurate…the building is an architectural wonder, but the courtyard is equally magnificent and lush with palm trees and fountains and worthy of a look. It is easy to imagine it in its heyday when it lured celebrities and noteworthy visitors.

After capturing some amazing photos of Flagler’s two stunning architectural gems, I headed across Cordova Street to admire the Casa Monica Hotel. This hotel was built by Franklin Smith in 1988, to whom Henry Flagler sold the land. After only four months of operation, Smith sold the hotel to Flagler, who renamed it the Cordova Hotel. He connected it to the Alcazar via a bridge in 1902. Eventually it fell victim to the Great Depression and closed. It was reopened by Richard Kessler in 1997 and renamed the Casa Monica Resort and Spa.

Though I wasn’t able to gaze upon the interiors of any of these historic hotels, I was content to inspect all of their exteriors and appreciate their prodigious architectural features. There are so many historic buildings throughout the city, but these are three that should not be missed!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Flagler College

https://flagler.edu
Address:
Hours:
Admission:

Lightener Museum

https://lightnermuseum.org
Address: 75 King Street, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: Adults, $17.00, Youth (ages 12-17 years), $10.00, Children (ages 11 and under), free, College Student, $14.00, Military, $14.00, Seniors (ages 65+), $14.00

Casa Monica Resort and Spa

https://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/jaxak-casa-monica-resort-and-spa-autograph-collection/
Address: 95 Cordova Street, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
Hours: 24 hours
Admission: rates per night vary

Good Ole’ Glen Allen

For some, it’s hard to envision what life might have been like 100 years ago.

Thankfully, there are some architectural landmarks around the country that have been lovingly preserved, so that we might be able to do so.

Some very good ones are nearby, in my hometown, Glen Allen.

Built in the 1920s, the Courtney Road gas station stands proudly on Mountain Road in Glen Allen, Virginia, a small town on the west end of Richmond. A “canopy style” station, which originated in 1916 by Standard Oil of Ohio for the transportation industry, it was owned by the Barlow family during a time of growth in the United States car manufacturing and road improvements. Sinclair gasoline and oil products were sold in the full-service station and customers could rely on prompt service by gas station attendants who, in addition to filling the tanks, cleaned windshields, checked the tires and “looked” under the hood.

Though the Courtney Road Station is not open to visitors except during special occasions or by appointment, you can park in the adjacent lot, walk under the canopy and inspect the old pumps.

Across Mountain Road, you can find Meadow Farm Museum, Crump Park and RF&P Park.

RF&P Park (within Crump Park) is home to the Glen Allen Athletic Association and the site of countless baseball, softball and football games on pristine, well-manicured fields. Many a weekend is spent here watching our children run the bases and score touchdowns. The real all-stars of the park, however, are actually “parked” near the fields.

Four restored Richmond, Fredericksburg & Potomac Railroad train cars sit proudly near the fields. At the baseball fields, the cars consists of a caboose, a steel coach and a postal car. A box car can be spotted at the softball fields.

These cars ran from Richmond to Washington D.C. on 113 miles of track (the shortest in the nation) which linked the North and South. You can climb onto the cars, inspect them closely and peer into the windows, however, the interiors are locked. They are the perfect location for photo ops for train lovers and those interested in Virginia’s historic transportation.

Also within Crump Park lies Meadow Farm Museum. Meadow Farm dates back to 1713, when Richard Baker and William Sheppard were granted 400 acres of property in Henrico county. In 1800, Meadow Farm was the site of an unsuccessful slave uprising which became known as Gabriel’s Rebellion and ten years, later, the present farmhouse was constructed by Mosby Sheppard. His son, Dr. John Mosby Sheppard, expanded the farm and passed it down to his grandson Major General Sheppard Crump, a veteran of World War I and Adjutant General of Virginia from 1955 to 1960. His wife, Elizabeth Adam Crump, was one of the first women in Virginia to receive a driver’s license and vote in public elections. In 1975, Elizabeth Adam Crump donated Meadow Farm to Henrico Country in memory of her late husband which was opened to the public in 1981.

Today, Meadow Farm Museum’s grounds are open to the public and consist of the farm house, a blacksmith forge and an orientation center. Costumed tour guides and staff present programs and exhibits on life during the farm’s heyday and on select weekends, demonstrations of the “life on the farm” take place in the farmhouse, barn, doctor’s office, blacksmith forge, kitchen, fields and pastures. Some of these programs include the annual Sheep Shearing event, Sheep to Shawl. It is the perfect place to take children to see many farm animals including chickens, turkeys, hogs, cows, horses and goats.

After visiting Meadow Farm Museum, you can enjoy Crump Park’s walking paths, ponds and playgrounds.

A little further down Mountain Road, there is another historic structure; the remains of Forest Lodge, which was built in the early 1880s by John Cussons. Cussons, an Englishman who served as a scout and lieutenant in the Confederate army and was captured in Gettysburg, returned to Glen Allen after the war and married Susan Sheppard Allen, the sister of Dr. John Sheppard of Meadow Farm and the widow of Benjamin Allen, for whom Glen Allen was named. He built the lodge as a resort along the RF&P Railroad where it intersected with Mountain Road. With 125 rooms and six stories, the luxurious resort was surrounded by a one thousand acre park which included trails, lakes and wild game.

Upon John Cussons death in 1912, the property exchanged hands multiple times until half of it was torn down. Used as office space and apartments, it was demolished in 1992. Today, you can park just off of Mountain Road and visit what is left of the historic lodge. The tower and surrounding columns are original elements from the Forest Lodge that were salvaged during its razing.

I have driven by some of these places often, visited on field trips and even taken my children’s prom and senior pictures at these locations. It is strange how I would probably go out of my way in another locale to seek out these historic structures and remains, yet, I really never took much time to stop and appreciate them.

Today, I finally did…in good ole’ Glen Allen.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Courtney Road Station

Address: 3401 Mountain Road, Henrico, Virginia 23060
Hours: 24 hours, daily for outside viewing. By appointment only for interior visits.
Admission: free

RF&P Park

Address: 3400 Mountain Road, Glen Allen, Virginia 23060
Hours: Grounds open daily.
Admission: free

Crump Park

Address: 3400 Mountain Road, Glen Allen, Virginia 23060
Hours: dawn to dusk
Admission: free

Meadow Farm Museum

Address: 3400 Mountain Road, Glen Allen, Virginia 23060
Hours: Grounds are open daily from dawn to dusk. Tours of the farmhouse begin at 1300 and the last tour is held at 1530.
Admission: free

Forest Lodge

Address: Mountain Road & Old Washington Highway, Glen Allen, VA 23060
Hours: Interior not open to the public. Grounds open 24 hours, daily.
Admission: free

So…You Want To Go To Cuba?

Yes please.

Maybe because Cuba was denied to U.S. citizens for so long, it is a place that has held a place of honor at the top of many bucket lists when it was finally opened up again.

There were many times when I thought I would work it into my travel schedule. Sometimes something else came up…or the flights were full…or I just plain chickened out. The fact that there was no cellphone service and no connection to the mainland honestly frightened me, especially if I was going to travel there by myself or with my children.

But, each time that I didn’t take that risk, I wanted to kick myself later.

Seeing some free time on my schedule, earlier this year, I decided that I was definitely going to make this trip to Cuba happen!

Maybe.

I hoped.

Since I was going to be traveling standby, I had to watch the flights carefully and my accommodations had to be booked only when I absolutely knew that I was going to make it there.

At two in the morning, I still wasn’t sure if I was going to leave for Havana in the morning. I lay in bed struggling with the decision, my stomach in knots, wondering if I was doing the right thing. On a whim, I messaged a few Airbnb owners and explained my situation. I was going to catch an early flight to Atlanta, arriving around 7:30 a.m. At that point, I would watch the flight to Havana for an hour and then reach out to make my reservation. My biggest question was whether or not I would have enough time to hear back from them to confirm the reservation and for them to forward me the address of the accommodation. If I landed with no cell service and no address…well, you can see why I was stressed.

Almost immediately, one of the owner’s responded. He understood my circumstances and right away, sent me the address. He told me that he would await my reservation at the appointed time and that he could also arrange for a car and driver to pick me up at the airport.

One hurdle down. I could get an hour’s sleep.

After arriving at the airport, I watched the flight which was departing in four hours and after deciding that I would probably make it, I set up the reservation and secured the car and driver.

Hurdle two, down.

Settling down at the gate, I filled out the visa paperwork that was required and paid the visa fee. The agents had a lot to do with the visa processing of the other passengers and the boarding process and I stood by nervously praying that I had not made the Airbnb reservation unnecessarily. Finally, the agent motioned me over to the counter, giving me a seat assignment and my proof of insurance.

Hurdle three, down.

Walking down the jetway, I thought, “This is my last chance to bail. Am I making the right decision?”

My seat was in first class and much to the dismay of the gentleman next to me, he suddenly learned that I was infringing upon the extra space that he thought he was going to have. Graciously, however, he greeted me and informed me that he had cleaned my seat with his supply of Lysol wipes!

As we began to speak, I told him how nervous I was and learned that this was his 120th trip to Cuba! You know how they say that sometimes things happen for a reason? Well, I must have been placed next to this man for the sole purpose of making me feel good about my decision to travel to Havana on my own.

At one time, he worked as a contractor for my airline when the need arose for a liaison between the airline and the government for the onset of the initial service. Prior to that and currently, he worked and is working as a tour operator. After learning where I was staying, he made me feel extremely confident about my decision as he had booked clients at this particular property. He was surprised to hear how hesitant I was, despite having traveled around the world, sometimes solo, and assured me that I would be completely safe. After giving me a list of restaurant recommendations and special items of interest, he reached up into his baggage and pulled out a Cuban tour book. Opening it to the Old Havana section, he suggested that I spend the flight looking through it and photographing the sections that interested me.

The book was outstanding and by the time I spotted the lush, green landscape sprawling below, I was only feeling excited anticipation!

Exiting customs and immigration, I exchanged currency and then spotted a driver holding a sign with my name. As he led me into the parking lot, my breath caught a little in my chest. I had heard about the antique cars that populate the city, but this was my first glimpse of the many positioned in the lot and my driver led me to a beautiful, old turquoise Ford. It was thrilling to ride in such a beautiful antique and though I don’t speak much Spanish and he didn’t speak much English, we managed a few pleasantries and we embarked on the journey towards my hotel in Old Havana.

After an enlightening forty-five minute drive (yes, the airport is that far!), we turned onto a narrow street and pulled in front of the building that houses Havana Dream, the Airbnb that was going to be my home for the next three nights. I thanked my lucky stars that we had arranged a driver to meet me as the building was nondescript and probably would have been difficult for a regular cab driver to find.

Greeted warmly by my host and his manager, I was shown to my room, a very modern and well-appointed space with a small balcony overlooking the street and down to the National Capitol building. What a sight!

I had made it!

Now what?

Last hurdle. I needed to go out. After quizzing the house manager about the time of sunset and safety measures, I decided to take a rousing shower and dress casually enough for going out, yet smartly enough to stay out for dinner and the return before dark.

Descending the stairs, I cautiously opened the door and stepped out onto Obrapia Street.

Despite not having had decided to travel here a mere twelve hours earlier, I was finally here. My 76th country! I had mounted many hurdles to get here and it was time to see what lay in store for me.

Old Havana was out there waiting to be discovered!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Note: ATM machines and credit cards do not work for American credit cards in Cuba. American cash and other currencies can be exchanged at the airport. Bring more currency than you expect to use. Though my Airbnb arranged for the transportation, I was responsible for the fare, 30CUC. My Airbnb also provided currency exchange when needed at local, published bank rates. Additionally, wifi cards could be purchased from my Airbnb which could be used while at my accommodations, however, because I was using an Iphone, once the card’s service was initiated, it was prudent to use all of the minutes allotted or risk losing it.

Havana Dream

Address: 408 Obrapia Street, Old Havana, Cuba
Prices vary, but approximately $65-$75 per night.

A Cross Across The River

Walking along the River Reuss, between the ancient bridges that traverse the waterway, I looked over…

and spied a cross across the river…topping a church.

The Jesuit church, with its recognizable onion domed bell-towers, governs the left bank of the river. The first Baroque church built in Switzerland, it is also considered to be one of the most beautiful. Designed by Italian and Austrian architects, under the guidance of Jesuit Father Christoph Vogler, construction began in 1666 and the church was consecrated a short eleven years later. Though the interior was still lacking, the shell and main facade were completed. Upon the time of consecration, several side altars were still missing as well as the high altar and the towers were finally completed in 1893.

A major tourist attraction, I anticipated seeing throngs of people entering and exiting the building, however, all was quiet in front of the church, leading me to expect to find the doors locked. Surprisingly, I found them open and made my way into the beautiful interior.

When in Lucerne, it is best to cross the river and view the church from the other side of the river to admire the simplistic nature of its facade. As you enter, however, make sure to reexamine the facade from a closer perspective. It is over the entrance door where you can find the beautifully carved statue of the Jesuit missionary Saint Francis Xavier, the patron saint of the church.

Inside the church it is light and airy with gray and rose colored relief decorations embellishing the white interior. The nave, leading to the altar, displays a decorated vaulted ceiling depicting the glory of Saint Francis Xavier. At the front of the church is a grand altar-piece made of pink marble…or so you think. Upon closer inspection, you realize that it is actually made of plaster and stucco, a process perfected in the southern Alps where marble is difficult to transport.

As I turned to gaze back at the way that I came, I was able to see the main Metzler organ, built from 1980-1982, with parts from an organ dating back to the 18th century. This organ is frequently used for recitals held in the church.

Enjoying the side chapels, the most interesting I discovered is dedicated to Brother Klaus, a famous Swiss patron, whose life-sized statue stands clothed in a brown monk’s habit.

While the church no longer provides an important religious life, with the adjacent monastery college being abandoned, it does provide tourists with a destination within the Alstadt and both locals and visitors with a magnificent concert venue which comes alive with the sensational acoustics.

If you are in the mood to pray, reflect or admire…check out the Jesuit Church in Lucerne, one of its architectural gems.

Jesuitenkirche St. Franz-Xavier

http://www.jesuitenkirche-luzern.ch/
Address: Bahnhofstrasse 11a, 6003 Luzern
Hours: 0630-1830, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Bus stop, Franziskanerplatz