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Group tours? No, I don’t usually care for them…but, to see the Royal Tombs located outside of Hue, it was going to be a necessity.
Collected early after a plentiful breakfast, I was transported to the riverfront, not far from my hotel. When I had booked my tour the day before, I had not realized that we would be traveling by dragon boat on the Perfume River. Score! I had seen these boats in the river the day before and thought they were fascinating, so despite my distaste for group tours, I was suddenly very exciting for having booked one.
After setting out on the river, the scenery was interesting…many fishermen and other boat traffic…and before long, we were sidling up to the riverbank. Walking across the roadway, we entered the grounds of the An Hien Garden House.
The An Hien Garden House, built in 1885, is one of many in the city that were built for mandarins and royal relatives.
After entering the premises and walking down the pathway lined with apricot trees, we encountered a wall. It was interesting to note that this wall was placed here to keep evil spirits away as they can only travel in straight lines. If, by some chance, the spirit was able to navigate around the wall, they would encounter the reflecting pond directly in front of the house. Since spirits do not have a reflection, this was the second line of defense for the house.
The garden house, was designed in the traditional Vietnamese style, in an almost total square with an area of about 135 meters. We were able to take a seat, have tea and enjoy the beautiful woodwork and the family altar which is its centerpiece. There are also many precious relics of the Nguyen dynasty, including four horizontal lacquered boards with the words, “Van Vo Trung Hieu” (literature, military, loyal and pious), gifted by King Bao Dai in 1937, hanging in the middle room. Looking out of the open doors that line the front of the house onto the reflecting pond and the multitude of colorful, fragrant flowers, your feeling is one of peace.
Our next stop, after re-boarding our dragon boat, was one that I was familiar with, Thien Mu Pagoda. One thing different from the day before, however, was that our guide gave us much information on the history of the pagoda and pointed out many items of interest, including the pavilion to the right of the tower which contains a stele (1715) set on the back of a massive marble turtle and the precious antiques in the main hall…bronze gong (cast in 1677) and wooden gilded boards with Lord Nguyen Phuc Chu’s inscriptions (1714). Another unusual item is an Austin car in which, monk Thich Quang Duc was driven to his death in Saigon in 1963.
After our guide’s speech was complete, I decided that I would walk around the property and rephotograph everything since the day was much brighter than the previous one. After revisiting the main hall, I walked around the back of the structure and much to my surprise, realized that there was so much more to see. With the rainfall the day before and my haste to meet my driver in time, I must have not realized that the grounds extended far beyond. So…maybe coming back on the tour was not such a bad thing!
We boarded the boat again and were served a nice lunch while continuing our cruise. Our next destination was a small, old pagoda, although I never caught the name. A rather quaint place, built onto the steep rocky banks of the Perfume, it was an interesting stop and had some very old relics inside of the temple.
After crossing the river, it was time to say goodbye to our dragon boat. Boarding a tour bus, we then made our way to what I had most wanted to see, the Royal Tombs.
The first tomb on our tour was Minh Mang, about 12 kilometers from Hue. Construction on the tomb began in September 1840, however, only four months into the project, Minh Mang became sick and passed away. His successor to the throne, Emperor Thieu Tri, continued construction and Minh Mang’s corpse was buried in Buu Thanh in August of 1841. The tomb was completed in 1843.
The complex consists of forty palaces, temples and pavilions and the entrance is through the main gate, Dai Hong Mon, which was opened only once to bring the Emperor’s coffin to the tomb. Visitors now use the two side gates, Ta Hong Mon and Huu Hong Mon.
Behind the main gate is the Honor Courtyard which houses the two rows of mandarins, elephants and horse statues.
Moving along into the temple area, we found the Salutation Court, however, rain decided to hamper our progress as the skies opened up. We ducked in to the Sung An Temple after passing through the Hien Duc Mon gate. This temple is where the Emperor and Queen Ta Thien Nhan are worshiped and is flanked by Ta, Huu Phoi Dien (Left, Right Temples) in the front and Ta, Huu Tung Phong (Left, Right Rooms) in the back.
Continuing on through the Hoang Trach Mon gate, we encountered the Bright Pavilion. Behind this pavilion are two flower gardens which lead to the tomb area and the crescent lake. Thirty three steps are ascended to reach the sepulcher of the Emperor.
Leaving Minh Mang, we then headed to the Royal Tomb of Khải Định and from the very moment I set my eyes on this place, I was enthralled. Looking up at the steep steps leading up to the building, the sense is one of grandeur and it took my breath away. I couldn’t climb the steps fast enough to see what lay at the top.
The twelfth king of the Nguyen dynasty, Emperor Khải Định came to power in 1916 and was very closely tied to the French government. Because of this, he was very unpopular with the Vietnamese people.
The last king to commence construction of his own tomb, work began in 1920 with the conclusion in 1931 by his successor, Bảo Đại,. Because he was so influenced by the French, his desire was to have a tomb influenced by their architectural styles.
One thing to notice when visiting Khải Định’s tomb is that it is much smaller than the tombs of his predecessors, however, undeniably more elaborate. The rectangular structure of the tomb leans against Chau Chu Mountain and is flanked by the largest sculptures of dragons in all of Vietnam. The tomb features an imperial audience court and twelve stone statues representing bodyguards. The interior boasts intricately designed glass and porcelain decorations on the walls and the ceiling is decorated with nine complex dragons. The rear room of the palace houses a temple containing the Emperor’s grave, an altar dedicated to him and a statue of his likeness, created in Marseilles.
Our next stop was a roadside village where locals make sandalwood and cinnamon incense and traditional Hue conical hats. Colorful stalks of incense are bunched together, hanging on the walls, displayed in bins and some pieces are lit leaving a pleasant aroma in the air. Local women demonstrate the process for making the incense which is used in temples throughout Vietnam.
Eight kilometers from Hue, Tu Doc, was the final tomb that we were to visit that day. Encompassing the largest surface area, it is divided into two main parts, the temple area and the tomb area. Fifty constructions were built on terraces of various levels and all contain the word Khiem (Modesty) in their names. Construction started in 1864 and was completed in 1867.
After passing through the main gate, you notice to your right, the beautiful landscape and Luu Khiem lake. Located on the lake are Xung Khiem and Du Khiem Pavilions where the Emperor would frequent to admire flowers, compose poems and read books. We could hear music floating across the lake and noticed that a cultural performance was taking place. No time to stop, we continued on to the Hoa Khiem Palace (the Emperor’s working place) which is now the altar devoted to the Emperor and the Queen. Flanking both sides of the Palace are Phap Khiem House and Le Khiem House which were for the military and civil mandarins.
To the rear of Hoa Khiem Palace is Luong Khiem Palace (the Emperor’s resting place), which was later used to worship the Emperor’s mother. The the left of the Palace is the Minh Khiem theater and Chi Khiem, the altar to worship the Emperor’s wives and Tri Khiem and Y Khiem Palaces, which were the accommodations of the Emperor’s concubines.
Continuing on, we encountered the tomb area. The necropolis is to the left of the temple and behind the Honor Courtyard, are two rows of magnificent military and civil mandarins. On the hill, opposite the Tieu Khiem Tri lake is the Buu Thanh brick wall. In the middle is a stone house where the Emperor is buried.
Definitely the most peaceful and picturesque of all the Royal tombs, I wished that I had had more time to wander and explore all that there was to offer.
Boarding the bus for the last time, we made our way back to the center of Hue. Most certainly a long day, it was worth seeing all that there was to offer in the former national capital.
- Various tours can be booked through hotels and travel agencings encompassing all of the things that I experienced. My particular tour was booked through my hotel, 220,000 Vietnamese Dong and included lunch (drink and other food items not included) and transportation (pickup, boat, bus). Admission to the An Hien Garden House, Pagoda, and Royal Tombs was not included. Consider purchasing combination tickets which include the Imperial Palace (Citadel) and 3 or 4 Tombs.
An Hien Garden House
- Address: 68 Nguyen Phuc Nguyen, Hue, Vietnam
- Hours: 0800-1700, daily
- Admission: 20,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $1.00)
- How To Get There: Taxi, xe om (motorbike taxi) or included with some tours. It is located about 7 minutes from the Hue Railway Station and 37 minutes from Phu Bai International Airport.
Thien Mu Pagoda
- http://www.hynostravel.com/attractions/thien-mu-pagoda-hue-vietnam/
- Address: Kim Long, Hương Long, tp. Huế, Thừa Thiên Huế, Vietnam
- Hours: Open 24 hours
- Admission: free
The Royal Tomb of Minh Mang
- http://www.vietnamtourism.com/Hue/e_pages/lt_lminhmang.htm
- Address: QL49, Hương Thọ, tp. Huế, Thừa Thiên Huế, Vietnam
- Hours: Summer 0630-1730, Winter, 0700-1700
- Admission: 150,000 Vietnamese Dong, adults, 20,000 VD, children (includes admission to Khai Dinh and Tu Doc). Combination ticket can be purchased at the Citadel which includes admission to the Citadel and all three tombs, 360,000 Vietnamese Dong, adults, 70,000, children. http://www.hueworldheritage.org.vn/TTBTDTCDH.aspx?TieuDeID=104&TinTucID=2074&l=en
The Royal Tomb of Khải Định
- http://www.vietnamtourism.com/Hue/e_pages/lt_lkhaidinh.htm
- Address: Khải Định, Thủy Bằng, tp. Huế, Huế, Vietnam
- Hours: Summer 0630-1730, Winter, 0700-1700
- Admission: 150,000 Vietnamese Dong, adults, 20,000 VD, children (includes admission to Minh Mang and Tu Doc). Combination ticket can be purchased at the Citadel which includes admission to the Citadel and all three tombs, 360,000 Vietnamese Dong, adults, 70,000, children. http://www.hueworldheritage.org.vn/TTBTDTCDH.aspx?TieuDeID=104&TinTucID=2074&l=en
The Royal Tomb of Tu Doc
- http://www.vietnamtourism.com/Hue/e_pages/lt_ltuduc.htm
- Address: Thủy Xuân, Huế, Thua Thien Hue, Vietnam
- Hours: Summer 0630-1730, Winter, 0700-1700
- Admission: 150,000 Vietnamese Dong, adults, 20,000 VD, children (includes admission to Khai Dinh and Minh Mang). Combination ticket can be purchased at the Citadel which includes admission to the Citadel and all three tombs, 360,000 Vietnamese Dong, adults, 70,000, children. http://www.hueworldheritage.org.vn/TTBTDTCDH.aspx?TieuDeID=104&TinTucID=2074&l=en
Hue’s Orchid Hotel’s staff was extremely welcoming and within a few minutes, had me checked into my room and booked on a tour to the Royal Tombs for the next day. Delighted to find not only a beautiful basket of fruit in my room and a desktop computer for my use, I was ecstatic to find an actual window! Don’t laugh! Many hotels in Vietnam are built so close together, only the front and sometimes the back facing rooms boast windows, usually offered at a premium.
Walking along the main road, many xe oms (motorbike taxis) slowed to ask if I needed a ride to the Citadel. Politely declining all, I finally agreed to one who also offered to take me to the Thien Mu Pagoda, wait for me and then deposit me at the front gates of the Citadel. We set off and after a short ride were parking near the souvenir stands lining the road near the pagoda.
Thien Mu Pagoda, sits on Hà Khê hill, about two miles from the Citadel on the Perfume River. Construction began in 1601 and it was later expanded and refurbished. The historic tower facing the river, known as Phước Duyên tower, has seven stories, each dedicated to a different Buddha, is the tallest religious building in Vietnam and sometimes recognized as the unofficial symbol of the city.
A slight drizzle continued, but didn’t deter me from seeing the tower, the temple and gardens behind it and the large marble turtle, a symbol of longevity. Keeping a close eye on the clock, I walked throughout the premises, enjoying the pavilions with the large Buddhist guardians and the colossal bell, that locals claim can be heard from six miles away.
This sprawling complex in Hue was where the Emperors of old would have lived and conducted all their business. There was even a part of the citadel known as “The Forbidden Purple City,” which, much like China’s Forbidden City, was reserved for only the most important people in Vietnam.
Making my way to the Forbidden Purple City in the center of the Imperial Enclosure, I was saddened to see that almost nothing remained. Almost entirely destroyed by the war, a few walls and crumbled remains lay on the site. Once a glorious institution, Vietnam’s Forbidden Purple City rivaled and was designed to resemble China’s Forbidden City. This citadel-within-a-citadel-within-a-citadel was reserved for the personal use of the emperor and only his servants were allowed on the premises with the next outer section reserved for important ceremonies and the outermost for non-royal commoners.
Walking back toward the front of the premises, I soon found myself near the main gate. Deciding to walk to the west, along one of the inner walls, I was surprised to find a whole other part of the citadel. There were many different compounds, each within their own walls with small lanes between them. Once again, I made my way toward the rear of the property, through each of them, enjoying the different pavilions and temples within.
At the rear of the property, there was a lake and a bridge leading to another entrance gate (one of ten). Making my way along the lake I walked to the eastern part of the complex, again making my way forward.
