Category: Greece

The Grand Finale

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Naxos was such an unexpected pleasure.

When we had made the decision to visit a couple of the Greek islands, Naxos was definitely not on my radar. If it had not been for the suggestion of a friend, I am not even sure that we would have chosen it over the many others that dot the Aegean Sea.

That being said, we had done and seen most of what we had set out to and enjoyed every bit of it, however, I still felt as though there was more to be discovered.

After our trip to the islet of Palatia to see Apollo’s Temple, my husband and son decided to head to the hotel for a nap before our ferry’s departure that afternoon. Camera in hand, I headed back into the alleys and pathways to see what more I could find in Naxos’ Old Town.

Now when I think back to our time in Naxos, I fondly remember the beautiful mountains and beaches, but what stands out in my mind is the intricacies of the Old Town. I absolutely adored just wandering the narrow passageways and picturesque harbor, discovering a photo around every corner.

As I headed past the port to make my way back up the hill, I noticed a modest, white-washed church standing alone on a small island. Panagia Myrtidiotissa is a small chapel built by the fishermen of Tsirigo and Kythira who survived a storm outside of Naxos and is only accessible by boat. As I sat on a bench, wishing I could make my way there, I watched a fisherman work on his vessel, all the while under the protecting eye of this historic church. If you happen to be in Naxos on September 24, make sure to not miss the celebratory feast honoring the church and the mariners of the island.

Knowing that we had missed the Catholic Church’s opening times the day before, I headed up the hill, in that direction, and discovered that I was still a bit early.

Around the corner, however, I noticed a sign directing me to the Casazza Chapel or the Chapel of the Duke of Naxos (also known as the Chapel of Sanoudos). Only having to wait a few minutes for its opening, I entered a beautifully decorated structure. Since I wasn’t sure of the history of the chapel, it was fortunate that the woman who unlocked the doors for us was an American and we could speak freely. She explained that the chapel was built in the 13th or 14th century by Duke Markos Sanoudos and continued to operate as the chapel of all Dukes of Naxos. Completed in 1680, the chapel was dedicated to the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin and later operated as the church of the Jesuits upon their arrival.

Leaving the Chapel of the Duke of Naxos, I passed near a doorway where an older gentleman was sitting. He beckoned to me and invited me in. Not sure what I was being invited to see (and a little nervous), I entered and found a small Orthodox chapel. It was colorful and well appointed even though occupying such a tiny space. Though I never learned what this chapel was, as he did not speak English, I could tell that he was proud of it and as I watched, he continued to invited all passersby to step in and admire the chapel.

Finally, making my way back to the cathedral in the central square, I found it open and entered eagerly. Though the church is relatively small, it is the most important temple of the castle in Naxos.

Exhibiting Byzantine and Western influences, the cathedral was built in the 13th century. There are some small chapels within the five-aisled, three domed structure and the floor is constructed of marble embossed with the coat of arms of the Duke of Naxos. The central aisle boasts an wood altar crafted by Tagiadoroi from Chios from 1774 and a painting of the Panagia Eleousa (Our Lady the Merciful) dating from the 11th or 12th century.

As you examine the outside of the cathedral, make sure to take note of the four coats of arms, including those of Markos Sanoudos, and the striking bell tower constructed in 1963 by John Filippoti.

Other notable religious buildings in the area include the building of the Catholic Archdiocese (13th century) which houses a collection of architectural parts, relics, folklore material, engravings, icons and ecclesiastical utensils, the old Jesuit Commercial School and the old Ursaline Academy for Girls.

Continuing my adventure through the maze of walkways and paths of the Old Town, I meandered slowly examining stairways, door knockers, signs, souvenirs, artwork, cafes, archways and even found an art gallery showcasing the work of my old friend, Yanni Souvatzoglou, an Athens sculpture artist.

As time dissolved quickly, I knew that I would have to return to the hotel so that we could catch our ferry back to Athens, however, there was just enough time to see one last thing…the Orthodox Cathedral.

The Orthodox Cathedral of Naxos was constructed in 1787 on the site of a smaller church and is dedicated to Zoodochos Pigi, the life-giving Virgin Mary. The cathedral was constructed using materials from other buildings including some ancient temples and it is said that the solid granite pillars were brought from the ruins of Delos.

As I entered the cathedral, I breathed in deeply, taking in the extravagance before me. The excitement of capturing it all was short-lived as I was told that photography was not allowed.

A few, well-placed shots were definitely going to be taken and I made my way around the church admiring the intricate wall paintings and the beautiful icons dating back to Turkish times as well as the Gospel Book, which according to custom, was a present from Catherine the Great of Russia.

Finally, it was time for our time in Naxos to come to an end. As we walked through the town toward the ferry terminal, I took one last look around at the city, the boats in the harbor and the fresh catch of the day drying in the sun.

We would definitely miss this Greek Island that we had grown to love during our short stay. Coming here was definitely unexpected but after seeking out many of the things that make it so special, we were extremely happy that we had taken the chance.

Unexpected and now not unexplored, by us anyway!

The grand finale just whetted our appetite for more…we will be back!

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Panagia Myrtidiotissa

  • Address: Naxos Port, Naxos Town 843 00, Greece
  • Hours: unknown
  • Admission: free

Chapel of the Duke of Naxos (also known as the Chapel of Sanoudos or Casazza Chapel )

Catholic Cathedral of Naxos

Orthodox Cathedral of Naxos

Yanni Souvatzoglou

Apollo’s Doorway

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Cruising into the Naxos harbor, you don’t have to go very far to see a piece of Greek history and architecture.

Greeting visitors to its island, is the Portara, the portal to the temple of Apollo, standing on the islet of Palatia.

The temple’s construction was started around 530 BC, when Lygdamis, the tyrant of Naxos, made the decision to build the highest and most magnificent building in all of Greece devoted to the honor of Apollo, the Greek God and protector of music and poets. After war broke out, work was halted and never completed.

After the temple’s marble was harvested for the Castle of Naxos, the doorway was deemed too heavy to dismantle and relocate, leaving a prodigious example of early Greek architecture to be studied and enjoyed by both visitors and locals for thousands of years to come.

Though we had spied the beautiful doorway as our ferry sailed into port, it wasn’t until our last day in Naxos that we finally made the walk across the causeway that connects the islet to Naxos.

Making our way up the steep path, we were eager to reach the pinnacle, but it was also essential to stop and enjoy the views of the blue Naxian waters, nearby Paros and the Naxian coastline in the distance.

As we made the summit, the remains of the temple spread out all around us with the Portara in the centrum. Staring through this vestibule at the white-washed city beyond it, I wondered if we should have come here during the evenings when we spied large numbers of visitors holding court awaiting the setting sun’s final descent beyond the island of Paros.

Yes, I think we should have.

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Portara Gate/Temple of Apollo

  • Address: Naxos 843 00, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

The Big Fat Greek Island

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

As Greek sunshine flooded our Naxos hotel room, we opened our balcony doors and looked out into the quiet streets, breathing in the salty sea air. It’s amazing to be in the Greek Isles!

After a quick breakfast, we headed into town to explore the multitude of passageways that headed uphill and the Venetian castle that keeps watch over the town. Because of the early hour, many of the shops we passed were not open and as we neared the castle, I was surprised to find it was not the typical castle that I had visited in other cities. What I mean is that I expected a ticket booth and an actual entrance into the fortification. This castle can be accessed wholly without a ticket and if you aren’t really paying attention, you might miss the fact that you are actually on the castle’s grounds as there are so many buildings that make up the complex.

That being said, the castle of Chora is a medieval monument, built by Venetian Duke Markos Sanoudos in 1207. It has two entrances, the Great Gate (Trani Porta) and the Wicket (Paraporti). Inside the castle, there are many medieval buildings such as the boarding school of the Ursulines, the School of Commerce founded by the Jesuit monks, the Kapela Kazatza, a chapel of the Duke, the Catholic Cathedral and the Tower of Krispi or Glezos (housing the Byzantine Museum).

It was an amazing adventure to travel amidst the winding passageways, that snake between the homes, shop and restaurants that make up this area. And believe me…it was not easy making progress as there was a picture to be taken at every turn!

Knowing that there was so much more to see on the island, we headed to a car rental shop and secured a car for the day. Getting out of the city was a bit of a challenge, but once we had traveled a few miles, it was fairly easy navigation.

Traveling through the western part of the island, we passed near the salt lakes where hundreds of windsurfers and kitesurfers meet each day to test their skill. In this area, we also were aware that there were many beautiful beaches, however, our mission was to explore the interior of the island before laying down our towels in the sun.

As we drove through the countryside, passing old windmills high on arid peaks, we soon came to the town of Vivlos, where we noticed one of the historical monument signs. Advertising the location of the Old Wash House that the villagers once used before the advent of Maytag, the site was still in relatively good shape and we could only image the villagers meeting here each day to do their laundry.

Continuing on, we soon found ourselves in Kato Sagri. A ruined building next to a church my eye. Pulling over, we walked around the property which is located at the settlement of Kanakari. The complex consisted of a tower house and bakery, both in ruins, with washers and a water well, formerly used for the needs of the buildings. This area was once used as a gathering point for the inhabitants of the village and the small church of the Annunciation, which is still in excellent condition, has served as a church for both Christian Catholics and Orthodox Christians. There is also a small complex of rooms, Kanakari1656, to rent behind the church offering a private getaway for visitors to the area.

Our next destination was the Temple of Demeter (Dimitras), however, it was nearing lunchtime and we decided to grab a bite to eat at the Cafe Bar Mylos, which sported a couple of old windmills on the premises. Spotting a sign across the road directing visitors to the historic site of Church of Agios Nikolaos, we decided to take a walk down the narrow, dusty road to check it out. A longer walk than we anticipated, we tried to enjoy the warm, clear day and the beauty of the countryside.

After turning onto a small path along a stone fence, we arrived at the small church which is located all alone in a field surrounded by the mountainous beauty. Though we were unable to view the interior, I later learned that it is a single-aisle church with an interior covered by successive layers of frescoes. These frescoes depict the birth and baptism of Jesus with the most recent layer dates back to 1270.

After the long walk back to our car, we resumed our trek to the Temple of Demeter, located not far near the village of Sangri.

The marble temple dedicated to Demeter, the ancient goddess of grain, dates back to the 6th century BC in the classical architectural style. Built near fertile areas, it was used for a religious purpose since the late Mycenaean Era.

Around the 3rd century BC, the temple was turn into a Christian religious center and a small chapel, dedicated to Agios Ioannis, was built on the premises, using marble from the ancient temple. Ruined in the 6th century, it was rebuilt in 1977.

After the remains of the temple were discovered in 1949, excavations lasted almost twenty years, beginning in 1976. Restored to its original glory by German archaeologists in the 1990s, the temple is now open to visitors.

Although a bit of a drive from Naxos Town, the temple is quite beautiful in its natural setting and accessible from its entire perimeter. After we had walked around the temple and checked out the chapel, I then took a walk to the rear of the property, past the ticket booth, to the museum which displays many remnants of the ruins that were not used in the reconstruction.

We continued our drive through the towering mountains in the middle of the island admiring the white-washed towns the cascade down the slopes and the countless churches that dot the countryside. After a quick hike down the side of a steep cliff, I even visited a simple little chapel that offered phenomenal views of the rich island.

Finally, after much driving, we decided that it was time to head to the coast for some much needed relaxation. Beginning at Plaka beach, we took a walk to the water to see what was available. Though the water was relatively calm, clear and blue, it did not appear as though there were any chairs for rent in this area. Driving further up the road, we soon found ourselves at Agia Anna. Here, there was plenty of parking and the water appeared similar to what we had just seen at Plaka Beach. A quick chat with a gentleman on the beach, secured us three beach chairs and an umbrella!

Though the water was pretty chilly, it was wonderful to see how clear it was and the beach was not overly crowded. Many restaurants and a small grocery store across the street provided some nourishment and we proceeded to enjoy the remainder of the afternoon enjoying the views and warmth of the Greek sun.

As the day drew to a close, the realization that our time in Naxos was coming to an end and yet, I felt as though there was so much more see on this “great big fat greek island”!

What an unexpected surprise!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Old Wash House

  • Address: Βίβλος 843 00, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Site of Kanakari

  • Address: Κανακάρι, Sangrí 843 00, Greece

Cafe Bar Mylos

  • Address: Άνω Σαγκρί 843 00, Greece
  • Hours: unknown

Aghios Nikolaos

  • Address: Naxos 843 00, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: interior not open to public

Temple of Demeter

  • Address: Drimalia 843 02, Greece
  • Hours: 0900-1600, closed Tuesday
  • Admission: 4€
  • Getting There: By car, from Hora, follow the road to Filoti. After about 6 miles turn onto the road signposted for Ano Sangri and the Temple of Demeter. Follow the signs for about 2 more miles to the temple.

Next? Naxos!

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

With so many Greek islands to choose from, how do you decide which to visit?

Although my family and I knew that we wanted to visit Santorini, we had no clue where to go after that.

A friend, who had recently visited three islands, suggested her itinerary of two nights in each Santorini, Mykonos and Paros. We contemplated these but hearing her stories about the expense of Mykonos, we decided that we wanted something a little more laid back and less costly.

Having spotted another friend’s posts on Facebook, I sent her a message inquiring about her recent vacation on the island of Naxos. Her response was overwhelmingly positive and after sending me a list of restaurants, hotels and things to do, we decided that this would be our destination.

Naxos, the largest of the islands of the Cyclades, lies north of Santorini and was once the seat of the Ducat of the Aegean and has been continuously inhabited since the 4th milennium BC. The most fertile of the Greek Islands, Naxos is a major producer of olive oil, potatoes, spoon sweets, the island’s famous liqueur, Kitron, wine and cheeses. It is famous for its wide variety of cultural events, traditional fairs. The island also offers colorful mountain villages, traditional windmills, breathtaking hiking and biking trails and some of the most beautiful beaches in the Greece.

The ferry from Santorini to Naxos, was a quick hour and ten minutes and before we knew it, we were pulling up to a quaint ferry port backed by a town built into the hillside, topped with an imposing Venetian castle.

It was a quick walk to our hotel and after checking in, we decided to spend the afternoon at Saint George’s Beach, just around the corner.

A popular beach which lays southwest of Naxos Town, Saint George’s Beach is named after the small chapel of Saint George which lies at its northern end. We found the waters to be extremely calm and relatively clear, though darker in nature, and the sands were soft, yet more of a dingy gray than any beach we had ever visited.

Making our way down the beach past the many restaurants that line the area, we finally decided on a place with a large number of vacant umbrellas and sun-beds for rent. Here, we relaxed for the remainder of the day, enjoying cold beers, snacks and great music.

As sunset approached, we headed into town to one of the bars facing the harbor to watch the amazing evening spectacle, so different and yet, so similar to those we had eyed each evening while in Santorini.

Finally, as the day came to a close, with the sun dipping beyond the horizon, we headed to one of the many restaurants rimming the harbor. The aroma of fresh, grilled seafood filled the air as we discussed our plans for the next day, which would start with us venturing through the narrow alleys and stairways up to the castle. We were then going to rent a car and see what lies beyond the main town.

Caves, beaches, churches, mountains, windmills, villages…

Naxos…a new place to explore!!! I couldn’t wait!

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Saint George’s Beach

So Much Santorini…So Little Time

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It was our last day in Santorini.

How do you squeeze in a gazillion things into only so many daylight hours?

We had some ideas of places we wanted to visit…the Ancient Site of Thera for sure…maybe the beaches in Perissa or Kamari.

As we drove toward the town of Perissa, we stared in wonder at the large groups of tourists who stood, patiently waiting for the local bus. Where were they all going? Probably other beaches, judging from their tropical attire.

We were heading to where they were heading away from…the village of Perissa.

Perissa, located on the southeastern edge of Santorini, is a coastal village where the ancient city of Elefsina was believed to have been located. At the base of Mesa Vouno mountain, the small village is known for its beautiful blue waters, black lava sand and wide array of restaurants and accommodations.

As we drove into the village, the first thing I noticed was the Tlimios Stavros with its blue dome and impressive bell tower. Once we had found a place to park, we walked over to the church to take a look. Most of the churches we had visited had been open, however, we found this one locked and we were forced to admire is architectural beautify from outside. The village was quite charming, filled with lots of souvenirs and we made a mental note to return in the evening to enjoy one of the many restaurants that lined the beach area.

As I gazed up at Mesa Vouno, movement caught my eye. People were walking up a steep path towards the summit! I knew the site of Ancient Thera was located on the mountain, but I had not realized that you could climb from Perissa. High on the mountainous slopes, I also spotted the white-washed chapel of Panagia Katefiani. Could I make it all the way?

After talking with a local in one of the shops, I learned that we could drive back to Pyrgos and then head toward Kamari. There, we would find the road that leads to Ancient Thera, complete with parking and we would not have to climb the entire way up the mountain. Pressed for time, this would be our option.

A short while later, we were making the harrowing drive from Kamari to Ancient Thera…2.3 kilometers with 22 hairpin switchbacks. Taking our cue from other drivers, we proceeded carefully and stopped at each switchback to blow the horn at descending traffic. A little worse for the wear, we finally arrived at our destination.

After purchasing our tickets, we began our climb to the summit of Ancient Thera, the 11th century BC Dorian settlement that exhibits remains from Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine periods as well as amazing views of Kamari on one side and Perissa, Perivolos, Fira and Oia from the other. And on clear days, you can also see some of the neighboring islands!

The existence of Ancient Thera is one of the most important pieces of Santorini’s history. After excavations began in 1986, it was revealed that a settlement stretching from northwest to southwest, was split by a central street with many side streets branching off of each side.

As we walked through the immense site, we encountered many excavated ruins including the Agora (the main square of the city) the Basilike Stoa (the center of public life), the theater (which contained seating for 1,500 people), the sacred area (with an enclosed grotto dedicated to Hermes and Heracles) and a gymnasium with Roman baths.

A cul-de-sac, at the highest point of the city, had an impressive building which was the headquarters of the fleet commander and a courtyard next door which was thought to be the gymnasium of the garrison. There were also the remains of dwelling which belonged to officers of the fleet.

Higher up on the mountain plateau was where the city’s inhabitants lived in houses centralized around a small courtyard where a cistern was located. Some houses had two levels and others also had basements.

There are many remains of artwork exhibited throughout the site including mosaics and carvings that can still be spied throughout and although the entire city is captivating, what transfixed our attention was the views. Staring out at the neighboring islands and the city’s of Kamari and Perissa below reminded us that we needed to continue our exploration of the island.

Making our way back the way we had come, I looked longingly at the footpath heading down to Perissa. A gentleman leading horses down the trail reminded me that because we had not made the climb from Perissa, caused me to miss the small chapel I had spied from the village. There was so much more that we had missed on the island, it would have to wait until a future visit!

The drive down the mountain was just as unnerving as on the way up, but finally we arrived in Kamari. Though we had planned to spend the afternoon on Kamari or Perissa’s beaches, we decided that although we had driven through Fira on a couple of occasions, we had never had the opportunity to explore the capital of Santorini.

After securing a parking spot, we headed into the narrow, crowded streets and alleys, passing through Theotokopoulos Square, which overflows with cafes and thousands of visitors, Gold Street and its countless jewelry stores and the commercial center of Fabrika.

We finally arrived at the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral, one of the most photographed churches on the island, due to its primary location in the city. Built in 1827, the large church offers amazing views of the caldera and nearby islands. Destroyed in the great earthquake of 1956, it was rebuilt with elaborate arches, a stunning bell tower, beautiful frescoes, a mosaic flooring, amazing central chandelier and offers religious paintings created by Santorinian painter Christoforos Asimis.

Finally, we headed to the teleferico. I had once seen a video on arriving visitors to the island taking the donkeys up the steep, winding path. I must admit, when we arrived two days before, this is what I had anticipated and was quite disappointed that there were no donkeys…only the rental car representative.

My husband, son and I paid for our cable car transport to the bottom of the steep cliffs to the old port below. A very picturesque setting, we walked along the harbor, watching passengers arrive and depart from waiting cruise ships and tours. There were quaint boats moored in the slip and many shops and restaurants as well as the old market.

As we prepared to take the cable car back to the top, I decided that even though my husband and son had no interest in riding the donkey to the top, I needed to do it!

Taking my place in the queue, I paid the attendant, climbed on and off I went up the steep pathway. It was fun to travel the traditional way that goods and people once did to Fira, although sometimes my donkey had a mind of its own. Or…maybe it was just giving me time to enjoy the views! Still, it was much more fun than climbing up 587 steps to the top!

Our final stop of the day was to one of the many bars that look out over the caldera. Here, we enjoyed one of the most spectacular views that I have ever seen!

Although we only saw about a quarter of what this amazing island had to offer, I was suddenly caught up in the moment.

What was right there before my eyes was what Santorini is all about!

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Ancient Thera

  • http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh355.jsp?obj_id=2454
  • Address: Ancient Thera Road, Kamari 17892, Greece
  • Hours: November 1 until March 31, 0800-1500, Closed Mondays. April 1 until October 31, 0830-1600, Closed Tuesday.
  • Admission: Full, €4, Reduced, €2. Special ticket package, Full: €14, Reduced: €7. The special package 4 day ticket is for Archaelogical Sites and Museum in Thera including Ancient Thera, Akrotiri, Archaeological Museum, Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Collection of Icons and Ecclesiastical Artifacts at Pyrgos. Free admission on March 6, April 18, May 18, last weekend of September, National Holidays, October 28, every first Sunday from November 1 to March 31.

Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral

  • Address:  Ipapantis, Thira 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: unknown
  • Admission: free
  • Modest dress required

Santorini Cable Car

  • http://www.scc.gr/
  • Address: Thera 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: April 1-April 30, 0700-2100, every 20 minutes. May 1-May 30 and September 1-October 31, 0700-2200, every 20 minutes. June 1-August 31, 0700-2300, every 20 minutes. November 1-November 30 and March 1-March 31, 0730-1030 and 1430-1800, every 30 minutes. December 1-February 28, 0700-0900 and 1500-1600, every 30 minutes.
  • Admission: Adults, one-way, 6€, Children, 3€, Luggage, 3€.

Santorini Donkeys

Old Santorini Port

Santorini South, Part Two

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The day was perfect.

Blue skies and amazing views were everywhere.

Heading further south on the well-maintained roads of Santorini, we continued on our journey to see what the scenic island would offer up to us.

After gazing out over Caldera Beach, we headed to the prehistoric town of Akrotiri. An ancient Minoan Bronze Age settlement, it was destroyed by a severe earthquakes and eventually a volcanic eruption at the last quarter of the 17th century B.C. Much like Pompeii in Italy, volcanic materials covered the town, protecting them for the town’s resurgence in later years. Since I had never been to Pompeii (something high on my bucket list), I was excited to see this well-preserved archaeological site and understand what I might see when I finally made my way to the Italian ruins.

The settlement, however, is protected by a bioclimatic roof and very different from pictures I had seen of Pompeii. After paying our entrance fee, we made our way around well-marked site, navigable by walkways suspended above the archaeological remains.

There were many important buildings that were mostly intact, including multi-storied houses, a few containing well-preserved frescoes, pottery and precious stone and bronze objects. Most of the important pieces that have been recovered, however, are now on display in the Museum of Prehistoric Thera.

After our visit was complete, we had planned to have lunch nearby and make our way to the adjacent Red Beach. So many cars and pedestrians were entering the parking area, however, we decided to alter our plans. Driving out past the modern-day village of Akrotiri, with its picturesque alleys, blue domed churches and traditional houses, we found a lovely restaurant, The Good Heart, located along the highway, to have a quick bite. Greeted warmly, we ate our lunch and bought some delicious snacks at their adjacent store.

Once our lunch and shopping was complete, we continued down to the end of the highway, stopping a couple of times to admire the continually beckoning caldera.

Our destination was the Akrotiri Lighthouse and we soon arrived, luckily securing a parking spot in the small lot. The well-known lighthouse is considered one of the best and most beautiful lighthouses in the Greek Isles.

A whitewashed structure, the lighthouse stands high on the cliff above the sea. Manufactured by a French company is 1892, it was one of the first lighthouses in the country and stands on a popular spot for tourists to enjoy the views and for locals to spend their evenings enjoying the cool breezes and spectacular sunsets.

Finally, heading back from the way we had just come, we decided that we had conquered most of the the southern sites of Santorini, but now needed to enjoy a bit of beach time. Heading down a small, rocky road toward the southern coast, we soon arrived at the Akro Beach Club.

Taking the steep stairs down the side of the cliff, we found ourselves at one of the three picturesque beaches that line the coast. Red, White and Black Beaches occupy methodical positions that can be reached by car in two of the instances (Red and Black) and by water taxi. Though we later learned that the water taxi would have been a cool alternative for us to see all three beaches, we were anxious to grab some beach chairs, beer and soak up some sun.

The beach was black, as its name suggests and a bit rocky. Thankfully, we had brought water shoes, making it much less difficult to make it down to the water’s edge. The water, however, was a bit cold for me!

The ambiance was amazing and we stayed much longer than we had anticipated, enjoying the sound of the waves, passing boats and warm weather. The beach was uncrowded and passengers from the water taxi came and went. More importantly, the beer was cold and refreshing!

As the day drew to a close, we finally made our way up the steep road…

To another beautiful sunset.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.com

Akrotiri

  • http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh351.jsp?obj_id=2410
  • Address: Thera 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: November 1-March 31, 0800-1500, Tuesday through Sunday. Closed Monday. April 15-October 31, 0800-2000, daily.
  • Admission: Full, €12, Reduded, €6. Special package 4-day ticket is for Archaelogical Sites and Museum in Thera Ancient Thera, Akrotiri, Archaeological Museum, Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Collection of Icons and Ecclesiastical Artefacts at Pyrgos. Free admission days, March 6, April 18, May 18, last weekend of September annually (European Heritage Days), National Holidays, October 28, every first Sunday from November 1 to March 31.
  • Getting There: By rental car, parking is available in adjacent lot, €4 or in Red Beach parking lot, €2. KTEL Santorini bus service to Akrotiri from Fira. Check out bus schedules at https://www.ktel-santorini.gr/index.php/en/.

Akrotiri Lighthouse

  • Address: Thera 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Black Beach

  • Address: Thera 847 00, Greece

Akro Beach Bar

  • https://www.akrosantorini.com/
  • Address: Akrotiri 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: 1000-2200, daily
  • Admission: free.
  • Beach chair/umbrella pairs, $30 first row, $20 second row, $15 last row. Menu item prices vary. Food/drink service located on beach and in restaurant. Locked safety boxes available at beach chairs.

Akrotiri Water Taxi

  • Journeys to all three beaches, 10€ from Akrotiri, near Red Beach.

Santorini South, Part One

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Despite the obvious jetlag, I was up early on our first full day in Santorini.

Taking a look at my Google Maps on my iPhone, I was initially very excited…

Care to guess what I found?

If you’ve followed my blog for a while, you will realize how much I loved to visit churches and there were a LOT of churches on Santorini. I carefully marked them all with the intent of persuading my husband and son that they absolutely needed to be visited, but also marked other points of interest along the way that we would be driving.

Ekklisia Agia Marina was the first stop on our planned venture to the south of Santorini. As my husband and son waited in the car, I jumped out and made my way around the small church. Entering the small, walled courtyard, I ogled the stone facade and the trio of bells, eager to summon the congregants. Trying the door, I surprisingly found it unlocked and took a quick look inside. Similar to some of the larger Orthodox churches I had visited in Athens, I noticed how clean and orderly this small-scale temple appeared and I admired the colorful paintings.

Making my way outside, I encountered the caretaker, who waved a friendly “hello” as I briefly wondered if I maybe should not have entered without permission. He didn’t seem bothered by my visit, so I joined my husband and son and we drove down the narrow dirt road to admire the magnificent caldera view available here.

Walking down the small trail toward the edge of the cliff, we stood in awe of the perspective before us. The Santorini caldera was formed 3600 BP during the Minoan eruption with the island of Santorini, Therasia and Aspronisi on the periphery and Kameni islands at the center. Truly one of the largest natural wonders of the world, we felt extremely small gazing out on the azur Aegean waters and watching the ferries depart for and arrive from other Greek islands.

Continuing on our journey, we arrived at Megalochori, a traditional village which can be dated back to the 17th century. After parking in one of the nearby lots, we made our way through the maze of whitewashed, narrow lanes and walkways, many covered and lined by colorful bougainvillea, that offer up what makes this pristine town so special…historical mansions, traditional houses, inner courtyards, tavernas, restaurants, small shops, churches and a quaint village square.

Once the home of merchants and wealthy land barons that exported the wine that is still produced there, the village exudes an air of mystery with its high walls and solid door entrances which were built for protection against the pirates that sometimes invaded the area.

In the center of the village, located at the top of a stairway, we stumbled upon the Hellenic Cultural Center which offers Greek classes and had many displays of items made in and used in Greek culture.

A little further, we were able to visit one of the cave homes that are common to area and that were often lived in by the less-wealthy citizens during the time frame.

Passing under the village belltowers, we strolled through the square and it was evident that this was the heart and soul of the village. Here, many locals were gathered to share information and play games of cards or tavli (backgammon). As we took in the menus of the many restaurants located, we made some mental notes for our dinner later that evening.

After our departure from Megalachori, we headed a little further down the road and two things caught my eye…a church and a windmill! The church, Μεταμόρφωση Χριστού (I think it is the Church of the Transfiguration of Christ), was not open to visitors, however, there was another lovely view of the caldera and a paved trail, beautifully lined with natural growth and flowers, leading to the windmill.

Having been to the Netherlands on many occasions and lain my eyes upon the anticipated windmills all over the country, I was surprised to not only see one in Oia and in this location, but more scattered throughout the island. This one, however, I learned is special…named El Viento, it is a century-old stone-built windmill that can be rented nightly! So…if you are a Bachelor or Bachelorette fan (then you will understand this reference)…maybe you will run into Pilot Pete here on his honeymoon one day!

Taking a glance at my watch, I realized that more time had passed than we realized! Our first day discovering Santorini had begun quite nicely, but there was so much more if we continued to head south!

For sure, more churches and more windmills!

To be continued…

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Ekklisia Agia Marina

  • Address: Santorini 847 00, Greece

Hellenic Culture Center

  • https://hcc.edu.gr/en/
  • Address: Megalochori, Thira 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: 0930-2030, Monday through Friday. Closed Saturday and Sunday
  • Admission: free

El Viento Windmill

A Santorini Sunset

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Santorini.

One of the most beautiful of the Greek Islands, it offers towering cliffs, lined with whitewashed villages, set amidst stunning azure waters. Having seen pictures over the years, I knew that if I had to select one Greek Island to visit, that would be it.

After picking up our rental car and making our way up the steep road to our hotel in Pyrgos, we unpacked, made a quick run to the grocery store and then stood on our patio, staring at the beautiful scenery on all sides of us. Now what?

We had three days to discover everything about this unique enclave.

My husband had spoken to the gentleman at the front desk and he had suggested heading to the north side of the island for some of the best views of the sunset. We needed to head out, it was already mid-afternoon!

Following the highway past Thera and Imerovigli and enjoying the views along the way, we finally arrived in Oia. Tour buses rolled past us and parking lots were filled to capacity. Large droves of people walked past us on the narrow roads. Finally, we found a parking spot along the roadway and walked up to the Lioyerma Lounge Cafe and Pool Bar to get a drink and our bearings.

Discovering that the view here was second to none and having had a long day of travel, we decided to remain here and enjoy some cold beers as the sun dropped lower towards the horizon.

While my husband and son enjoyed some traditional Greek appetizers, I decided to do some exploration of the area. Finding small walkways lined with colorful hyposkafa buildings, windmills, minimalist churches, sea captains’ houses, old wineries, hotels restaurants, shops and cafes, I was astounded. Everything was so picture-perfect, I felt as though I was walking through a postcard.

This was what we had come to see!

This…and a sunset.

Yes, the sun was inching closer to where the sea meets the sky, so I returned back to our table on the edge of the cliff.

The winds had increased and it was quite chilly as we toasted our good fortune to have made it to such a stunning location.

Eventually, as a cruise ship made its way out to sea, the sun dipped behind the waves, enveloping us in the gloaming.

One of the most astonishing sights I have ever laid my well-traveled eyes on.

I had always heard about the stunning Santorini sunsets.

Now, I understood.

Santorini sunsets were definitely made for proposals!

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Lioyerma Lounge Cafe and Pool Bar

  • Address: Oia 847 02, Greece
  • Hours: 1000-2200, daily
  • Admission: Drinks and food for purchase. To sit at tables near the edge, for excellent sunset viewing, minimum purchase required.

Fly or Float?

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There are two ways to Santorini.

Airplane.

Ferry.

Although we were anxious to get to Santorini as soon as possible, we were also curious about Greece’s ferry system. So many times while in Athens for work, I desperately wanted to head to the Port of Piraeus to catch a ferry to one of the nearby islands.

I always chickened out.

I was not sure how the port was laid out, if it would be easy to find the correct ferry or even how to purchase a ticket.

This time, we realized that we needed to try something different. We’ve traveled by plane for so long, we felt as though we needed to figure out how to travel like the locals. The bonus would be the beautiful scenery along the way!

Once we decided that our trip to Santorini was going to be on the ferry…it was time to figure it all out!

Discovering that there was more than one website offering ferry tickets, including the ferry service’s own websites, it became a matter of choosing the one which offered the best price for the class of service. Opting for Business Class tickets, we were all set. I was finally getting to go to the Greek Islands!

Now…I needed to figure out how to get to the port.

A brief discussion with my Airbnb owner gave me the confidence to take the metro. He warned of the terrible traffic near the port near departure times and since we were near the Monastiraki metro station, he explained that it was easy to take the metro straight to the port.

He was right!

Up early, we purchased our metro tickets and waited for our departing train. Twenty minutes later, we (and a LOT of other people) were exiting that same train, headed to our respective ferries.

The port was busy with arriving cars and taxis and fellow travelers pulling and carrying suitcases. We had no idea which gate our ferry was departing from and it took a bit of walking before we discovered the board with the gate assignments.

In other countries, I have taken ferries on occasion…nothing, however, had prepared me for what we would find for our trip to Santorini. Approaching the gate area, we were fascinated…this was not a ferry! It was a cruise ship!

Entering from the rear, our tickets were checked and we were directed to place our luggage in the racks in the middle of the car parking area, something I was not comfortable with, knowing that the ferry made stops at other islands before Santorini. Just exactly who was monitoring the luggage?

After heading upstairs, we were directed to our large business class seats. Noting a luggage storage rack in the front of the cabin, I immediately headed back downstairs, collected our luggage and brought it back upstairs to our location.

Making myself comfortable…leg rest up…seat back…neck pillow in place…pashmina draped around my legs…I watched the port disappear into the distance.

As I was hypnotized by the rocking of the ferry, the rolling waves, and the passing landscapes, my eyes grew heavy.

Four more hours and we will have made it to Santorini. By ferry.

And yes, it wasn’t that hard!

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Ferry Booking Websites

One Last Thing

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Our feet were tired and we were hot and thirsty.

But…there was “one last thing” that I wanted to see on our way back to our hotel.

The Ancient Agora of Athens.

I had been here many years ago, but only remembered that it was during the winter and I was so cold that I cut our visit short. What was within the gates? I didn’t remember any of the major landmarks, only walking through some of the small ruins.

Having had such a long day, I think that if my husband and son had realized how much there was to do and see here, I don’t think they would have agreed to this “one last thing”. Nevertheless, our entry was free with the Combined Ticket we had purchased with our admission to the Acropolis, so I was determined that we would get our money’s worth!

The grand Stoa of Attalos, closest to the entry gate was where we decided to begin our exploration of the area. This column-fronted building is a remarkable example of Hellenistic architecture, fully restored from 1952-1956, and contains the Museum of the Ancient Agora.

The stoa, dating back to 150 BC, was built by Attalos II, the ruler of Pergamon, as a gift to the city of Athens for the education he received there. It was thought to have once operated as a commercial center with shops on each floor. Built of marble and limestone, it was much larger and elaborate than most of the buildings constructed in ancient Athens and exhibited different types of architectural orders. As we walked through the colonnades, on the main floor we noticed that the Doric order was used for the exterior and Ionic for the interior. Similarly, on the upper floor, the exterior was Ionic and the interior, Pergamene. Moving throughout the building, even with the intense heat of the day, the building was well lighted and ventilated through doorways and small windows.

The museum was especially interesting with it collections of clay, bronze and glass objects, coins, inscriptions from the 7th to the 5th century BC and pottery from the Byzantine period and Turkish conquest. Most captivating were the detailed sculptures depicting some of the Athenian citizens…so detailed in some cases that you almost expected movement. Also related in great detail, throughout the museum, is the history of the Agora area and how it developed over the ages.

Once our visit to the museum was complete, we moved out into the Ancient Agora, the area where Athenians would often gather to trade information and goods. There were many paths among the ruins and much to discover.

Making our way toward the north-west side of the property, we discovered the Temple of Hephaestus, one of the most well-preserved pieces of architecture in the city. Situated atop the Agoraios Kolonos hill, construction on the building began in 449 BC and took almost three decades to complete as attention to building the Parthenon took priority.

The temple, dedicated to Hephaestus, the ancient god of fire and Athena, goddess of pottery and crafts, had a variety of uses over the years, resulting in the buildings continual upkeep. It’s longest purpose, however, was serving as the Greek Orthodox church of Saint George Akamates from the 7th century until 1834. Shortly after the arrival of the first King of Greece, Otto I, it was ordered that the building be used as a museum. It remained in this capacity until 1934, when it was reverted to the status of ancient monument.

The building’s grounds are well kept and heavily planted with shrubs and a well-paved walkway around its perimeter. As you make your way around the building, be sure to take note of the eastern and western friezes, the grand Doric columns (6 on the east and west sides and 13 on the north and south sides) and the sculptures depicting the labors of Hercules and the Battle of Theseus with the Pallentides, the fifty children of Pallas and the Fall of Troy.

Heading back along the southern rim of the property, we discovered the Church of the Holy Apostles (also known as the Holy Apostles of Solaki). When excavations began on the Ancient Agora in 1931, there were many churches located in the area. All were removed except for this small, Byzantine church, which has been dated back to 1000 AD, one of the oldest in Athens. After extensive restorations, this little church is now one of the highlights of the Ancient Agora with its colorful frescoes and intricate stone work.

With the heat wearing us down, we headed toward the exit. Leaving my husband and son near the exit I made a quick detour, moving toward the Monument of the Eponymous Heroes. This marble podium previously displayed the bronze statues of the ten heroes of the tribes of Athens, Erechtheus, Aegeus, Pandion, Leos, Acamas, Oeneus, Cecrops II, Hippothoon and Aias. Once used as a pulpit where proposed legislation, decrees and announcements were announced, I must admit that I was a bit disheartened to find it in poor condition, only displaying a shell of its former grandeur.

As I spotted my husband and son waiting patiently for me under the shade of a large tree, I stopped quickly to inspect Odeon of Agrippa statues that remain as the only part of the concert hall that once stood in the center of the Ancient Agora. Built in 15 BC, it was a gift to the people of Athens from Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa (Roman statesman and general) and was able to seat crowds of 1,000. After architectural damage throughout the years, it was finally destroyed by the Herulians in 267 AD.

Thinking about he destruction of the Odeon of Agrippa, I thought about how many times the Agora was destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries. Abandoned and forgotten, it was finally brought to light when excavations began in 1931.

Learning so much more on this visit than on my previous, I was glad that I had dragged my husband and son here. It is strange to think that only eighty-eight years ago, the citizens of Athens did not know that this site would someday become a place for thousands of tourists to wander about, learning about the commerce of the ancient Athenians.

Though we were ready for a nap and a cold shower, I was glad that we had made the detour and that my family had agreed to my impulse.

Sometimes that “one last thing” is the thing you remember most.

Other notable sites within the Ancient Agora:

  • The Ruins of the Tholos
  • The Propylon to the Bouleuterion
  • The surviving torso of a statue of the Roman Emperor Hadrian
  • Ruins of the Metroon
  • Great drainage canal on the agora
  • The Altar of Zeus Agoraios
  • The ruins of the civic offices.
  • The Klepsydra (water clock used to time speeches).
  • Southeast Fountain House
  • Remains of the Triangular Shrine
  • Two noteworthy ancient streets, The Road to Pireas and the street of the marble workers.
  • The ruins of the state prison
  • The Dekasterion (court house)
  • The NE Bath
  • The Middle Stoa

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Ancient Agora of Athens

  • http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh355.jsp?obj_id=2485#_=_
  • Address: Adrianou 24, Athina 105 55, Greece
  • Hours: November to March, 0800-1500, April to October, 0800-2000, daily
  • Admission: Adult, €8.00, Reduced rate, €4.00, Children under 18 years, free. Combination ticket, includes admission to Acropolis, Temple of Zeus, Ancient Agora, Roman Agora, Hadrian’s Library, Keramikos Cemetery and Lyceum of Aristotle, €30.00