In addition to beaches, Aruba is filled with farms and sanctuaries…donkeys, ostriches, birds and butterflies!
During our stay we had already visited the donkeys and the ostriches so naturally, butterflies were next on our list .
First, however, there were a few places we wanted to see.
The capital of Aruba, Oranjestad is named after “Huis van Oranje’ (Orange House), the name of the Dutch Royal Family in 1824 during the Dutch colonization. This downtown area is filled with plenty of traditional Dutch multicolored buildings, museums, restaurants and shops scattered through Main Street, the Royal Plaza Mall and Renaissance Marketplace.
Finding a parking space in the downtown area is a challenge, but after a little back and forth, we finally secured a spot. Parking near the National Archaeological Museum of Aruba put us near many of these architectural gems as well as the Wharfside Flea Market, where we perused the stalls looking for Aruban souvenirs and treasures.
A quick six minute walk brought us to the I Love Aruba Sign on Lloyd G. Smith Boulevard the perfect place for souvenir pics! While this particular sign is convenient for cruise ship passengers…Promenade Cruise Port is located adjacently…there are a few other signs located throughout the island (Parliament House, Senor Frog’s, Hadicurari Beach) if you don’t happen to visit downtown Oranjestad.
Jumping back in our car, we headed back toward Palm Beach and made a quick stop at The Old Mill. Known as De Oude Molen, it was built back in 1804 in the Netherlands, meticulously taken apart, shipped to and reconstructed in Aruba in 1960. Planned as a tourist attraction, a new base was constructed and a restaurant ensconced within. Today, The Old Mill is still a top tourist attraction as well as a museum, resort and a top dining option. While we found the museum and restaurant closed due to the early hour, we were able to peek inside at the dining facility which is decorated with furniture and paintings dating between 880 and 1800.
Finally, we headed (almost next door) to the Butterfly Farm. Opened in 1999, it was preceded by the first Butterfly Farm, located in Saint Martin and established in 1994. Located on the French side of the island, it was designed and built by two eccentric Englishmen, William Slayter and John Coward.
Aruba Butterfly Farm
Discovering success on Saint Martin, five years later, Slayter decided to open another farm in Aruba. While the farm in Aruba has thrived, sadly, the farm in Saint Martin was destroyed by the category five hurricane, Irma in September 2017.
After purchasing our admission, we were able to join a tour that was about to begin. Here, we found ourselves in a net-enclosed miniature rain forest filled with beautiful flowers, plants and trees…the perfect home for butterflies!
From our guide, we learned about the evolutionary cycle from microscopic eggs, to to caterpillars, to pupae. We were also instructed on how to handle the butterflies and caterpillars and those with brightly colored clothing and citrus scented perfumes were lucky enough to attract these beautiful creatures!
Once our tour was complete, we were welcomed to stay as long as we wanted. While it was warm and humid inside (the perfect environment), we walked around for quite some time, enjoying the beauty of these beautiful winged creatures as they flitted around from leaf to leaf and branch to branch and dined on sugar water and fruit.
While I would have loved to continue our theme of “farms and sanctuaries” and checked out the Bubali Bird Sanctuary, this was our last full day in Aruba that was not going to be strictly a beach day. The next day was to be spent in the sun with our feet in the sand and toes in the water! While birds would be flying overhead, this would be as close as we would come to Aruba’s flying friends!
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I Love Aruba Sign
Address: Lloyd G. Smith Boulevard 19, Oranjestad, Aruba
Years ago, during my first ever visit to Aruba, my husband and I had visited the island’s natural bridge. The Aruba Natural Bridge was a coral limestone arch, measuring approximately 25 feet high and 100 feet long and the remnants of an ancient cave. Many years later, we had heard that this well known attraction had sadly succumbed to mother nature on September 2, 2005.
Even though I was aware that this tourist attraction no longer existed, we decided to take a drive out to the location and at least walk among the nearby ruins of the Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins…it wouldn’t take long and there were some other things along the way that we wanted to see.
As we drove along the dirt road, we noticed a great deal of traffic headed out that way and then subsequently, a packed parking area. While the original Natural Bridge no longer existed, a smaller version, the Aruba Baby Natural Bridge, is located nearer to shore. Not as impressive as the original, however, it still draws large crowds and the occasional idiot who ignores the warning signs and tries to walk across it!
Aruba Baby Natural BridgeCoastline at Aruba Natural Bridge
After a few photos and a stop in the Visitor’s Center for drinks and the restroom, we headed over to the Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins. Once a bustling mill which existed during Aruba’s gold rush, it used the power of strong ocean winds to crush stone and isolate gold ore. Ore was processed into fine gold and exported. The mill only operated for a couple of decades and was closed to make way for a newer, state of the art mill at Balashi, in Aruba’s interior.
Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins
Sitting vacant in the harsh environment of Arikok National Park for more than a century, only its natural stone walls remain and it is open to visitors who can walk freely throughout the structure. While there is not much to see besides what is left of the structure, its contrast against Aruba’s brilliant blue skies makes for beautiful photographs and it offers a bit of exercise while climbing to different levels of the mill. Stunning views of the Caribbean can be had from the structure as well as from the ocean’s edge where dozens of cairns line the water’s edge.
Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins
Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins
Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins
Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins
I remembered these cairns from the first time I had visited the island and was surprised to see many still in place. Some controversy has arisen due to the practice. While tourists think it is a way to “make a wish” or stack the rocks as a “monument” or “landmark”, National Park officials have condemned the practice as it defaces the natural beauty of the area and upsets the habitats of many species.
Cairns at Aruba Natural Beach
Cairns at Aruba Natural Beach
Moving on, we left the park, with our visit to the Donkey Sanctuary the day before still on our mind. We had enjoyed our interactions with those amazing animals so much, that when we learned that there was an ostrich farm in close proximity, we decided to make it our next stop.
Luckily, after paying our admission, we learned that we didn’t have to wait long for the next tour to begin. After spending a few minutes browsing in the gift shop, we heeded our summons into the farm’s open-air atrium which was decorated with African figurines and long wooden handcrafted tables where guests can enjoy meals from the farm’s restaurant, Savannah.
Ostrich Farm Restaurant and Interior
Our guide, a colorful, Crocodile Dundee look-a-like, introduced himself, gave us a short background on the farm’s history and then led us out onto the dusty pathways between the gated pens. We were introduced to the adult emus and ostriches and learned about the ostriches speed and defense mechanisms as well as about their mating, rearing and feeding habits. At this point, we were each invited to feed two of the ostriches. As my son and I held a bowl, the up and down bobbing of their heads, as they gobbled up their food, was quite comical. “Mr. Dundee” filmed the entire spectacle so that we could remember “that time we fed an ostrich!” and then we all moved on, aiming to meet the other residents. If we thought that the donkeys had unique personalities, we found that the ostriches’ were outrageous with their goofy bald heads, loopy gait and how they followed us, watching carefully.
Feeding the Ostriches
And then…for the emus…the three-toed cousin of the ostrich. Though I knew that emus were different than ostriches, my knowledge of the differences pretty much ended at the fact that they were smaller. So yes, we were informed that while emus and ostriches share many physical characteristics such as broad eyes, elongated, featherless necks, long, strong legs that can maintain high speeds when running, long dagger-like claws and large wings that are not used for flight, but for courtship, they are quite different and more so than their toes.
While emus are the largest birds in Australia, they are small when compared to the ostrich, the largest bird on earth. Emus have three toes on their feet and ostriches have two plus a long tendon that allows them to run at speeds of up to nearly 45 miles per hour. Emus generally top out at 30 miles per hour and are much more docile toward humans than the ostrich. This, we witnessed as a male ostrich acted a bit hostile towards our tour guide and then stole his hat. And, while we were only allowed to feed the ostriches from a bowl, we were allowed to hand feed the emus, something I would not have dared to do with the ostriches earlier.
Emus
Finally, our tour concluded with a visit to the incubator, hatchery and the special pens for the young ostriches and emus. Seeing the size of the ostrich eggs was quite fascinating…talk about a huge omelet!
Incubator, Hatchery and young Ostrich
After our visit to the ostrich farm was complete, we decided that we had time for one more tourist attraction, the Casibari Rock Formations. Proof of its popularity was the many tour buses parked in the adjacent lot, however, we were not deterred.
The Casibari Rock Formations is a series of boulders that are piled almost randomly in the Aruban desert just north of Hooiberg. Scientists cannot explain what geological even might have created these formations, though there is speculation that it may have been the shifting of the tectonic plates. Archaeologists and historians are fascinated by the petroglyphs and paintings that appear on many of the rocks, drawn by the Arawak people who deemed this land sacred.
Casibari Rock Formations
As we made our way through the entrance, we found an interesting rock formation called “Dragon Mouth”, one of many found throughout the park. Following the trails and paths which weave throughout the area, we also noted that many of the enormous stones were also named for animals which they resemble.
Casibari Rock FormationsCasibari Rock FormationsCasibari Rock FormationsCasibari Rock FormationsCasibari Rock Formations
Making our way to the highest point, we were rewarded with sweeping views of the island as well as of the Hooiberg, also known as the Haystack, a volcanic formation that towers some 540 feet above Aruba.
Casibari Rock Formations
Casibari Rock FormationsCasibari Rock FormationsView of Hooiberg from Casibari Rock Formations
There were many beautiful cacti throughout the premises and we learned that many creatures inhabit the area, including iguanas to burrowing owls.
Cacti of Casibari Rock Formations
Cacti of Casibari Rock FormationsCacti of Casibari Rock Formations
Last, but not least, we drove to the nearby Ayo Rock Formations, similar to the Casibari Rock Formations. As with the former visit, we found many trails and stairways which took us throughout the premises and spotted many petroglyphs, some protected by iron bars. This one, however, had some gigantic wind-carved boulders which were piled in such a way that it created tunnels and caves. We also spotted an opening in one of the rocks which contained a white female statue.
Ayo Rock Formations Entrance
Ayo Rock Formations Ayo Rock Formations
Ayo Rock Formations
Ayo Rock Formations Ayo Rock Formations Ayo Rock Formations Petroglyphs Ayo Rock Formations
Being in the heat of the day, with no protection from the sun, we decided that our tour of the central part of the island was complete. It was now time to head to the coastline and its blue waters and white sands for some cooling off. This time, we headed to the far opposite of the island from where we had put our toes in the water the day before. First, we tried Eagle Beach, a wide swath of golden sand which offers chairs, umbrellas (for a fee), food and drink options and jet ski rentals. Not long after our arrival, the skies darkened and the wind picked up, pelting us with sand. Deciding it wasn’t the place for us, we headed down to Arashi Beach, which had some good waves and chairs and umbrellas for rent. A nice way to spend the remainder of the afternoon, we lounged in the sun before finally headed back to our hotel, right in time for another beautiful sunset.
Our third day was definitely packed with Aruba’s top sights, natural bridges, ruins, rocks and ostriches.
Aruba doesn’t disappoint!
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There’s a saying about one our most western states, “If you don’t like the weather in California, wait five minutes.”
While we were not in California or the United States for that matter, the morning’s drizzle gave us pause. Knowing, however, how rain showers come and go on Aruba, we waited five minutes for it to pass and decided to press on and go to the “California” in Aruba…the California lighthouse.
A short drive from our hotel, following a line of ATV Quads the entire way, we found the California Lighthouse in the area known as “Hudishibana,” near the island’s northwestern tip. While keeping watch and guiding sailors away from the rocky coastline, it also draws thousands of tourists each year, many part of ATV adventures that start at the lighthouse and then head on over to the nearby Arashi Dunes.
Since we were in charge of our own tour, we found a parking spot in the lot adjacent to the lighthouse and paid our admission to the attendant at the door, readying ourselves to begin the long, spiraling climb to the top.
One hundred steps later, we had spectacular 360 degree views of the island.
Named after the steamship California, which was wrecked nearby on September 23, 1891, the lighthouse was built in 1916 and stands 98 feet tall. It became automated in 1970 and was restored in 2106; its one hundredth anniversary. While visitors come throughout the day, many flock to the area at sunset, to watch the the sun hit the horizon and hope to catch a glimpse of the legendary green flash.
Views from the top of the California LighthouseArea around the California Lighthouse
After our tour of the lighthouse was complete, we headed to Arikok National Park, which comprises almost twenty percent of the island. Approaching from the Vader Piet entrance, we first encountered the Vader Piet Wind Farm. These giant wind turbines comprise one of the best performing wind farms in the world, due to the northeast winds that consistently blow in the area.
Vader Piet Wind Farm
Vader Piet Wind Farm
Passing the Huliba Cave (which was closed as we were informed by the gate attendant), we continued on through the rugged terrain, admiring the desert-like hills, tall cacti and breathtaking coastline. Taking the next turnoff, we found ourselves at the Quadirikiri Cave.
The Quadirikiri Caves are a system of three caves that are open for exploration. Located at the base of a limestone cliff, we found the entrance and followed the pathway which penetrated the dark recesses of the cave, spotting Amerindian petroglyphs, stalactites and stalagmites along the way.
Quadirikiri CavesQuadirikiri Caves
Quadirikiri Caves
Continuing onward through the park, we drove the dusty roads, eyeing wild goats and donkeys in the barren fields before we found the entrance to the next cave system.
Fontein Cave is more developed for tourists than Quadirikiri and offers rustic, stone picnic tables outside the entrance. We were greeted by a park ranger who directed us to follow the stone-lined pathway and pointed out more petroglyphs on the cave’s ceiling. It was dark at the rear of the cavern and occasionally a bat or two flew past our heads toward the opening.
Next, we made pit stops at Boca Prins and Dos Playa, two stunning beaches along the northeast coast. Although both were extremely picturesque and inviting and we were tempted with the lure of a refreshing swim, signs warned visitors of very strong undertows. Instead, we decided to capture their beauty photographically and my son took a long walk to the cliff jutting out over the strong waves so that he could see the surfers enjoying the afternoon swell.
Boca PrinsDos Playa
Tiring of the dodging potholes and large rocks, I was quite please to see paved roads ahead as we exited the national park.
The way out.
Next stop on the agenda was one of my favorites of the entire trip; the Donkey Sanctuary.
The Donkey Sanctuary
Five hundred years ago, donkeys were bought to the island to act as a mode of transportation. When cars were introduced, donkeys were no longer needed and many were released into the wild. In the 1970’s an illness decimated the population leaving only about twenty donkeys.
The Donkey Sanctuary
In 1997, the Donkey Sanctuary was founded with a clear purpose to save the donkeys that populate the island. Today approximately 130 donkeys live at the sanctuary and visitors are invited to interact, feed and pet them. The donkeys, who have names such as 7UP, Annie, Big Momma and Cinnamon, are extremely friendly and like to walk up and nuzzle you, hoping for some affection and of course, food!
While we had never really spent any time near donkeys, we found them to be extremely sweet and each exhibited unique personalities, distinguishing themselves from the others. As we made our way through the enclosure, some greeted us with loud braying and followed us to the enclosed porch. While we learned from a sign that they enjoy being treated to apples and carrots, we hadn’t brought any with us, so we purchased a large container of donkey feed and spent a bit of time nourishing them and laughing at their antics.
The Donkey Sanctuary does not charge admission, but welcomes donations and earns money through the sale of donkey feed and from exclusive items in their gift shop.
The Donkey SanctuaryGift Shop
Traveling along the southeast coast of Aruba, we headed to the far southern end of the island to finally spend some time in the sun and sand! Our destination was Baby Beach in San Nicolas, a curved strip of white sand with turquoise water. Aptly named because its calm, warm, shallow waters are perfect for young swimmers, we found it to be a bit crowded, obviously a popular spot for both locals and tourists. After finding a parking spot, we hit the beach and rented chairs from Big Mama Grill, a bit of an expensive venture for the two hours that we were going to be there. But, tired of driving and ready to cool off in the ocean, we paid the fee and took a much needed break, enjoying the beautiful view and the warm rays.
Baby Beach Entrance
Baby Beach
As the sun was beginning to dip, we decided to make one last stop before heading back to our hotel; the Seroe Colorado Lighthouse. While we expected a structure much like what we had seen earlier in the day, we were disappointed to find only a rusted metal cage at the peak of the beach area, which houses the light. Not an architectural highlight, but the views from this area were stunning and the cactus growing in the area made for some interesting photos.
Seroe Colorado Lighthouse
So, as we finally made the long drive back to the northwest side of the island, we talked about all that we had done and seen on this first full day in Aruba. We had started with a lighthouse and we ended the day with one as well, filling the middle with caves, bats, beaches and donkeys.
Aruba is full of great things!
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Its a time for warm weather to replace the cold, flowers to replace dead grass, animals to emerge from hibernation, players to fill baseball diamonds…
Spring brings hope…and SPRING BREAK!
Yes, every year, thousands of families and students descend upon beaches everywhere hoping to escape winter’s icy fingers and return home, to the envy of friends and those not so fortunate, to show off their tan lines!
Over the years, I have been blessed to have had the opportunity to take my children on some pretty awesome vacations, some, during their Spring Breaks. Last year was no exception. This time, my youngest son and I decided to head to the far southern reaches of the Caribbean…
Aruba.
While we didn’t take advantage of staying on popular Palm or Eagle Beaches, we had rented a car, which in turn, offered us the opportunity to make our way all over the island. After a long day of travel, we were excited to have arrived, excited to make our way to hotel and excited to get our vacation started.
Our hotel, situated across from the Hadicurari Beach, where sailboarders glide across the shallow Caribbean waters, was clean and offered us what a traditional hotel room couldn’t…a kitchen. We were excited to stock our fridge with some snacks, ice down our beer, get settled in our hotel room and cross the road to put our feet in the sand. But…finding more rocks than sand, we attempted to manipulate a path to deeper waters. One step in…
Ouch!
A crab got me.
Okay…maybe this wasn’t the hotel for us.
Yet…that evening, as we sat on our patio and opened up a couple of Balashi Beers, we realized that despite the less than optimum beachfront real estate, the sunsets here were spectacular. This is what the hotels and homes in this area are known for!
With a car at our disposal, we could enjoy different beachfront properties each day and then retire to this little slice of paradise to enjoy our own personal happy hour!
On our first day, that first sip of Balashi, along with the spectacular views, gave us hope for the days to come.