beaches – Snapping The Globe

Adventures in Aruba Part 2

There’s a saying about one our most western states, “If you don’t like the weather in California, wait five minutes.”

While we were not in California or the United States for that matter, the morning’s drizzle gave us pause. Knowing, however, how rain showers come and go on Aruba, we waited five minutes for it to pass and decided to press on and go to the “California” in Aruba…the California lighthouse.

A short drive from our hotel, following a line of ATV Quads the entire way, we found the California Lighthouse in the area known as “Hudishibana,” near the island’s northwestern tip. While keeping watch and guiding sailors away from the rocky coastline, it also draws thousands of tourists each year, many part of ATV adventures that start at the lighthouse and then head on over to the nearby Arashi Dunes.

Since we were in charge of our own tour, we found a parking spot in the lot adjacent to the lighthouse and paid our admission to the attendant at the door, readying ourselves to begin the long, spiraling climb to the top.

One hundred steps later, we had spectacular 360 degree views of the island.

Named after the steamship California, which was wrecked nearby on September 23, 1891, the lighthouse was built in 1916 and stands 98 feet tall. It became automated in 1970 and was restored in 2106; its one hundredth anniversary. While visitors come throughout the day, many flock to the area at sunset, to watch the the sun hit the horizon and hope to catch a glimpse of the legendary green flash.

*Views from the top of the California Lighthouse*

After our tour of the lighthouse was complete, we headed to Arikok National Park, which comprises almost twenty percent of the island. Approaching from the Vader Piet entrance, we first encountered the Vader Piet Wind Farm. These giant wind turbines comprise one of the best performing wind farms in the world, due to the northeast winds that consistently blow in the area.

Passing the Huliba Cave (which was closed as we were informed by the gate attendant), we continued on through the rugged terrain, admiring the desert-like hills, tall cacti and breathtaking coastline. Taking the next turnoff, we found ourselves at the Quadirikiri Cave.

The Quadirikiri Caves are a system of three caves that are open for exploration. Located at the base of a limestone cliff, we found the entrance and followed the pathway which penetrated the dark recesses of the cave, spotting Amerindian petroglyphs, stalactites and stalagmites along the way.

Continuing onward through the park, we drove the dusty roads, eyeing wild goats and donkeys in the barren fields before we found the entrance to the next cave system.

Fontein Cave is more developed for tourists than Quadirikiri and offers rustic, stone picnic tables outside the entrance. We were greeted by a park ranger who directed us to follow the stone-lined pathway and pointed out more petroglyphs on the cave’s ceiling. It was dark at the rear of the cavern and occasionally a bat or two flew past our heads toward the opening.

Next, we made pit stops at Boca Prins and Dos Playa, two stunning beaches along the northeast coast. Although both were extremely picturesque and inviting and we were tempted with the lure of a refreshing swim, signs warned visitors of very strong undertows. Instead, we decided to capture their beauty photographically and my son took a long walk to the cliff jutting out over the strong waves so that he could see the surfers enjoying the afternoon swell.

Tiring of the dodging potholes and large rocks, I was quite please to see paved roads ahead as we exited the national park.

Next stop on the agenda was one of my favorites of the entire trip; the Donkey Sanctuary.

Five hundred years ago, donkeys were bought to the island to act as a mode of transportation. When cars were introduced, donkeys were no longer needed and many were released into the wild. In the 1970’s an illness decimated the population leaving only about twenty donkeys.

In 1997, the Donkey Sanctuary was founded with a clear purpose to save the donkeys that populate the island. Today approximately 130 donkeys live at the sanctuary and visitors are invited to interact, feed and pet them. The donkeys, who have names such as 7UP, Annie, Big Momma and Cinnamon, are extremely friendly and like to walk up and nuzzle you, hoping for some affection and of course, food!

While we had never really spent any time near donkeys, we found them to be extremely sweet and each exhibited unique personalities, distinguishing themselves from the others. As we made our way through the enclosure, some greeted us with loud braying and followed us to the enclosed porch. While we learned from a sign that they enjoy being treated to apples and carrots, we hadn’t brought any with us, so we purchased a large container of donkey feed and spent a bit of time nourishing them and laughing at their antics.

The Donkey Sanctuary does not charge admission, but welcomes donations and earns money through the sale of donkey feed and from exclusive items in their gift shop.

Traveling along the southeast coast of Aruba, we headed to the far southern end of the island to finally spend some time in the sun and sand! Our destination was Baby Beach in San Nicolas, a curved strip of white sand with turquoise water. Aptly named because its calm, warm, shallow waters are perfect for young swimmers, we found it to be a bit crowded, obviously a popular spot for both locals and tourists. After finding a parking spot, we hit the beach and rented chairs from Big Mama Grill, a bit of an expensive venture for the two hours that we were going to be there. But, tired of driving and ready to cool off in the ocean, we paid the fee and took a much needed break, enjoying the beautiful view and the warm rays.

As the sun was beginning to dip, we decided to make one last stop before heading back to our hotel; the Seroe Colorado Lighthouse. While we expected a structure much like what we had seen earlier in the day, we were disappointed to find only a rusted metal cage at the peak of the beach area, which houses the light. Not an architectural highlight, but the views from this area were stunning and the cactus growing in the area made for some interesting photos.

So, as we finally made the long drive back to the northwest side of the island, we talked about all that we had done and seen on this first full day in Aruba. We had started with a lighthouse and we ended the day with one as well, filling the middle with caves, bats, beaches and donkeys.

Aruba is full of great things!

For more photos, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

California Lighthouse

http://www.arubalighthouse.com
Address: Arashi Beach, Aruba
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0900-1900, Sunday, 0900-1800
Admission: $5.00 USD

Arikok National Park

https://www.arubanationalpark.org/main/
Address: San Fuego 70, Santa Cruz, AW
Hours: San Fuego entrance, 0800-1600. Vader Piet entrance, 0800-1530. Visitor center closes at 1530. Closed January 1.
Admission: Adults (non residents, ages 18+), $15.00 USD, Children (under age 18), free. Adults (residents, ages 18+), AWG5 (about $2.77 USD), Children (under age 18), free.

Aruba Donkey Sanctuary

http://main.arubandonkey.org/portal/
Address: Bringamosa 2-Z, Santa Cruz, Aruba
Hours: 0900-1600, daily
Admission: free, donations accepted

Baby Beach

https://www.visitaruba.com/things-to-do/aruba-beaches/baby-beach/
Address: San Nicolas, Aruba
Hours: Unknown
Admission: free. Parking, free. Beach chairs, umbrellas and cabanas available for rent.

Seroe Colorado Lighthouse

Address: C49J+99C, San Nicolas, Aruba
Hours: 24 hours
Admission: free

The Big Fat Greek Island

As Greek sunshine flooded our Naxos hotel room, we opened our balcony doors and looked out into the quiet streets, breathing in the salty sea air. It’s amazing to be in the Greek Isles!

After a quick breakfast, we headed into town to explore the multitude of passageways that headed uphill and the Venetian castle that keeps watch over the town. Because of the early hour, many of the shops we passed were not open and as we neared the castle, I was surprised to find it was not the typical castle that I had visited in other cities. What I mean is that I expected a ticket booth and an actual entrance into the fortification. This castle can be accessed wholly without a ticket and if you aren’t really paying attention, you might miss the fact that you are actually on the castle’s grounds as there are so many buildings that make up the complex.

That being said, the castle of Chora is a medieval monument, built by Venetian Duke Markos Sanoudos in 1207. It has two entrances, the Great Gate (Trani Porta) and the Wicket (Paraporti). Inside the castle, there are many medieval buildings such as the boarding school of the Ursulines, the School of Commerce founded by the Jesuit monks, the Kapela Kazatza, a chapel of the Duke, the Catholic Cathedral and the Tower of Krispi or Glezos (housing the Byzantine Museum).

It was an amazing adventure to travel amidst the winding passageways, that snake between the homes, shop and restaurants that make up this area. And believe me…it was not easy making progress as there was a picture to be taken at every turn!

Knowing that there was so much more to see on the island, we headed to a car rental shop and secured a car for the day. Getting out of the city was a bit of a challenge, but once we had traveled a few miles, it was fairly easy navigation.

Traveling through the western part of the island, we passed near the salt lakes where hundreds of windsurfers and kitesurfers meet each day to test their skill. In this area, we also were aware that there were many beautiful beaches, however, our mission was to explore the interior of the island before laying down our towels in the sun.

As we drove through the countryside, passing old windmills high on arid peaks, we soon came to the town of Vivlos, where we noticed one of the historical monument signs. Advertising the location of the Old Wash House that the villagers once used before the advent of Maytag, the site was still in relatively good shape and we could only image the villagers meeting here each day to do their laundry.

Continuing on, we soon found ourselves in Kato Sagri. A ruined building next to a church my eye. Pulling over, we walked around the property which is located at the settlement of Kanakari. The complex consisted of a tower house and bakery, both in ruins, with washers and a water well, formerly used for the needs of the buildings. This area was once used as a gathering point for the inhabitants of the village and the small church of the Annunciation, which is still in excellent condition, has served as a church for both Christian Catholics and Orthodox Christians. There is also a small complex of rooms, Kanakari1656, to rent behind the church offering a private getaway for visitors to the area.

Our next destination was the Temple of Demeter (Dimitras), however, it was nearing lunchtime and we decided to grab a bite to eat at the Cafe Bar Mylos, which sported a couple of old windmills on the premises. Spotting a sign across the road directing visitors to the historic site of Church of Agios Nikolaos, we decided to take a walk down the narrow, dusty road to check it out. A longer walk than we anticipated, we tried to enjoy the warm, clear day and the beauty of the countryside.

After turning onto a small path along a stone fence, we arrived at the small church which is located all alone in a field surrounded by the mountainous beauty. Though we were unable to view the interior, I later learned that it is a single-aisle church with an interior covered by successive layers of frescoes. These frescoes depict the birth and baptism of Jesus with the most recent layer dates back to 1270.

After the long walk back to our car, we resumed our trek to the Temple of Demeter, located not far near the village of Sangri.

The marble temple dedicated to Demeter, the ancient goddess of grain, dates back to the 6th century BC in the classical architectural style. Built near fertile areas, it was used for a religious purpose since the late Mycenaean Era.

Around the 3rd century BC, the temple was turn into a Christian religious center and a small chapel, dedicated to Agios Ioannis, was built on the premises, using marble from the ancient temple. Ruined in the 6th century, it was rebuilt in 1977.

After the remains of the temple were discovered in 1949, excavations lasted almost twenty years, beginning in 1976. Restored to its original glory by German archaeologists in the 1990s, the temple is now open to visitors.

Although a bit of a drive from Naxos Town, the temple is quite beautiful in its natural setting and accessible from its entire perimeter. After we had walked around the temple and checked out the chapel, I then took a walk to the rear of the property, past the ticket booth, to the museum which displays many remnants of the ruins that were not used in the reconstruction.

We continued our drive through the towering mountains in the middle of the island admiring the white-washed towns the cascade down the slopes and the countless churches that dot the countryside. After a quick hike down the side of a steep cliff, I even visited a simple little chapel that offered phenomenal views of the rich island.

Finally, after much driving, we decided that it was time to head to the coast for some much needed relaxation. Beginning at Plaka beach, we took a walk to the water to see what was available. Though the water was relatively calm, clear and blue, it did not appear as though there were any chairs for rent in this area. Driving further up the road, we soon found ourselves at Agia Anna. Here, there was plenty of parking and the water appeared similar to what we had just seen at Plaka Beach. A quick chat with a gentleman on the beach, secured us three beach chairs and an umbrella!

Though the water was pretty chilly, it was wonderful to see how clear it was and the beach was not overly crowded. Many restaurants and a small grocery store across the street provided some nourishment and we proceeded to enjoy the remainder of the afternoon enjoying the views and warmth of the Greek sun.

As the day drew to a close, the realization that our time in Naxos was coming to an end and yet, I felt as though there was so much more see on this “great big fat greek island”!

What an unexpected surprise!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Old Wash House

Address: Βίβλος 843 00, Greece
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Site of Kanakari

Address: Κανακάρι, Sangrí 843 00, Greece

Cafe Bar Mylos

Address: Άνω Σαγκρί 843 00, Greece
Hours: unknown

Aghios Nikolaos

Address: Naxos 843 00, Greece
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: interior not open to public

Temple of Demeter

Address: Drimalia 843 02, Greece
Hours: 0900-1600, closed Tuesday
Admission: 4€
Getting There: By car, from Hora, follow the road to Filoti. After about 6 miles turn onto the road signposted for Ano Sangri and the Temple of Demeter. Follow the signs for about 2 more miles to the temple.

Home Sweet Cayman

When you’ve been somewhere so many times, it starts to feel like home.

This is how we feel about Grand Cayman. So many visits over the years (sometimes 2-3 per year) had us feeling like we had set down roots on the island.

As our boys grew older, however, they wanted to see other parts of the world and sadly, we had not been to Grand Cayman in a few years.

We were truly missing it.

When we booked our cruise, we were excited to spot Cayman on our itinerary. There was nothing to plan. No excursions to book. We knew to rent a car and go to one of our favorite spots on the island.

Seven Mile Beach.

Not the public beach, mind you…where all the cruise ship passengers are taken, but the beach in front of two of the condominium units that we consistently rented over the years. A little further down the beach from the public area, there is not much foot traffic and the sand and water are beautiful.

There is beach access, from the road, every few hundred yards in this area and parking along West Bay Road is acceptable. Though we knew we would not be able to utilize any of the condos’ chairs or facilities, we planned to make camp under one of the mangrove trees and spend our time hanging in the water.

Walking out of the cruise port (where, unlike Roatan, they have amazing tender service provided by the island, I might add), past cruise hotspot Margaritaville and Fort George, we headed west and found Avis Car Rental. Grabbing a car for the day, our next order of business was to find a spot to buy patties. Jamaican patties are our favorite food and one we had to take with us on our beach excursion.

Driving down the newly built roadways linking Georgetown and the West End. It was interesting to see the development that had occurred over the years. Not the Cayman we remember from 25 years ago and certainly not the Cayman we remember from even 6 years ago. For goodness sake’s, an underpass now stretches across West Bay Road, part of a hotel development site.

Finally, parking our car along the roadway, we gathered up our towels, snorkeling gear and lunch and headed up the path to the beach.

Winter’s waters are a little rougher than what you find in the summer, so just standing in the water proved to be a bit challenging with the larger than normal waves rolling in. We managed, but I found hanging on the beach and reading a book to be a bit more relaxing.

Before long, it was just as it was in Harvest Caye, Costa Maya and Roatan…our time on the beach seemed to fly by making us nervous about getting back to our ship.

If you are a cruise ship passenger looking to enjoy your time on your own in Grand Cayman, do as we did and book a rental car. There are so many things to do on the island, including visiting the town of HELL (with it’s own post office that will postmark your postcards with the name), the Grand Cayman Turtle Farm, Rum Point and countless other beaches in between Seven Mile Beach, Georgetown, the East End and Rum Point.

If driving on the left is not your thing, there are countless tours that can be booked with cruise companies and on your own. A most popular one is Stingray City, an area in the North Sound of Grand Cayman, where southern stingrays are found in abundance. Paying passengers are taken here and urged to don masks and snorkels, though the water is rarely above shoulder level on one of the sandbars. Another sandbar is deeper and more suited for those wishing to dive the site. At both of these locations, visitors can pet and interact with the stingrays which come to feed in the chummed waters.

Whatever you go to Cayman for…wildlife interaction, adventure, or beach relaxation or even Jamaican Patties…you will not be disappointed. There is a reason it’s one of our favorite places in the world!

And yes, it was good to feel like we were home…even just for a few hours!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Grand Cayman

https://www.visitcaymanislands.com/en-us/about-cayman/our-islands/grand-cayman

The Mexico of Old

The Mexico of old. Do you remember?

Over twenty years ago, I remember driving around Cozumel in a rented (and rusted and dented) convertible Volkswagon Beetle, stopping at little bars and restaurants and snorkeling on stretches of unspoiled beaches. I remember riding the bus in Cancun for 35 cents and having dinner for about $5 per person. There were very few all-inclusive resorts and though many of the hotels were tall structures, they could not be compared with the mega-resorts spanning the coastline today.

My, oh my! Amazing what twenty years can bring.

The last time I went to Cancun and Cozumel, I was shocked at how much both had changed. Boutique hotels, heavy traffic, shopping malls and dinners averaging about $25 per person. I was not charmed by it anymore.

When we found out that we would be docking in Costa Maya, Mexico, I assumed that it was near Playa del Carmen and was less than thrilled. My recent visions of Cancun and Cozumel, still haunted me. I could only envision modern Mexico with beaches filled with tourists and high-end establishments.

And…I admit, I never really bothered to look at a map.

One of my good friends, who knows my adventurous spirit well, told me that the port, built by Carnival, was really nice but that I needed to take a taxi into town so that we could enjoy the beaches and local establishments. She said, “It’s like Mexico used to be.”

That’s all it took. I was intrigued and we would be heading into town.

As we looked down the coastline from our balcony, we could see a lighthouse and some low-rise buildings. Closer to the walkway from the pier, we could make out some thatched buildings, a large pool and what appeared to be a pyramid, but not much else.

After walking down the pier towards shore, what we found was quite surprising. This port was amazing! Pools, plenty of lounge chairs, shops, souvenirs, restaurants, bars, Dolphin Discovery, signs pointing to a beach area with snorkeling…

Did we really want to leave?

Surmising that my friend must have told me to go to town for a reason, we continued the long walk to the front of the property, winding our way through the stalls and artwork. Only spotting one cab parked alongside the curb, we assumed that taxi service was probably more expensive and decided to take the shuttle for $4 per person.

The open-air shuttle, pulled by a pickup truck, pulled out of the port’s gates and as we turned onto the main road, we discovered where the cabs were parked. The shuttle gave us a full view of the passing landscape. Not much was new construction and nothing appeared to be over four stories. After about a eight minute ride, we were pulling up to the curb in the town of Mahahual. Hedging the few locals who attempted to get us to use the chairs on their property, we decided to take a walk down the beach to first see what was available before making ourselves comfortable.

Mahahual…took…my…breath…away!

My first thought was that it looked so much like Ambergris Caye, Belize but with nicer beaches. Maybe if I had looked at a map, I would have realized how far south we were in Mexico…so very near the Belize border and Ambergris Caye. Located in the State of Quintana Roo, Costa Maya is the only state bounded by the Caribbean Sea to its east and offers a beach that extends north and south for a total of 62 miles.

We walked south, down the well-paved path, admiring the blue water, gentle surf and white, powdery sand, lined with beach chairs. There were countless restaurants and bars and no shortage of local women offering to give me a massage. The quaint fishing village, still had not caught up to the modernity of Cancun and Cozumel and I loved that there was not a name-brand hotel or McDonald’s in sight.

After being away from email, Facebook, Instagram and whatever it is that my children subscribe to, we were all anxious to log on, see what we missed for the past couple of days and check in with our friends and family. The first order of business was to find comfortable beach chairs, with some shade for my husband and good wifi. There were plenty of establishments offering chairs, all for free if you order drinks and/or food from them during the day.

That being done, we ventured out to the water’s edge, checked the temperature (a little cool) and signaled to our waiter for some drinks and lunch. The restaurant we had chosen to do business with, Maramao, was efficient and delicious…probably some of the best cerviche I have ever eaten!

After a while, I decided to take a walk. Heading north, this time, I reveled in the stone architecture, topped with thatched roofs, quirky bars, and countless vendors selling everything from t-shirts, to sandals, to Mayan masks…and much more!

After I while, I spotted our ship in the distance, reminding me that our stay in beautiful Mahahual was not permanent. Turning back, I meandered slowly, knowing that we would soon have to catch a cab.

And then, that was it. Our time in a paradise that I didn’t know existed was over.

As we sailed away from the port, I vowed that I would be back.

Mahahual, has so much more to discover…diving, fishing, ruins, ATV riding, ziplines, jungle exploration, water parks and authentic Mexican cuisine. Xcalak, a smaller village is located only 37 hours to the south and boasts amazing water sports and fishing. Mahahual, I learned, is only a six hour drive from Cancun. A bit lengthy but there are also flights to Chetamal, a two hour drive.

Yes, to rediscover the Mexico of old, I am willing to do that.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Costa Maya

https://costamaya.com/

Norwegian Cruise Lines

https://www.ncl.com
Ship Name: Norwegian Pearl
Itinerary: 7 days, departing Tampa. Ports of call, Harvest Caye, Belize, Costa Maya, Mexico, Roatan, Honduras, Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands

Island Hopping

The Baths.

No, not the kind you take when you are dirty.

The Baths on Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands.

Twenty- four years ago, while visiting St. Thomas, my husband and I booked a boat trip to the British Virgin Islands. One of the stops that day was the Baths on Virgin Gorda. Such an impression it made on us then, we knew that we had to return with our children so that they could see what an extraordinary natural wonder it was.

There are many companies that offer comparable day trips to the British Virgin Islands. After searching the internet, we finally decided on Calypso Tours and the Bad Kitty 2 catamaran. Their five-stop, four island tour gives you an overview of some of the BVI’s most amazing attractions, islands and beaches.

Departing from the St. Thomas passenger ferry terminal, we were all instructed to complete customs and immigration forms, hand in our passports and pay the $60 (per person) Customs and Immigration Fee for our arrival into the British Virgin Islands in Virgin Gorda. With only a peek at our entry port of Spanish Town, we patiently waited onboard while the crew checked us into Customs.

Being cleared, we were on our way, passing the many islands that make up the British Virgins. Our first stop…the Baths.

A collection of massive granite boulders on a white sand beach, The Baths provide some of the most beautiful scenery on the island of Virgin Gorda.

After dropping anchor just offshore and donning life vests, we made the short swim to the beach, many of us holding our Iphones, sealed in plastic baggies, high up in the air! A bit of a risk, but knowing that there was going to be ample photographic opportunities, it was worth it!

Led by our crew, we made our way through and around the colossal boulders, following the natural and man made footpaths and walkways, as they pointed our the many shapes and formations formed by the eroded granite. Climbing and walking through countless natural tidal pools, tunnels, arches and scenic grottoes that opened out to the sea, we eventually found ourselves in the Cathedral….the most photographed of the many rooms which are formed by the adjacent boulders. Tyra Banks fans…you might recognize this as the place of her first Sports Illustrated photo shoot!

After our swim back to the Bad Kitty 2, we were on our way once again with a seagull riding the wind behind us. Our next destination, Salt Island and the wreck of the RMS Rhone.

The RMS Rhone, thought to be an unsinkable ship with its unique brass propeller and iron hull, was caught in a category three hurricane in 1867, and thrown directly into Black Rock Point killing all but 23 on board. Lying in 30-80 feet of water, the wreck is spread out on the ocean floor with her bow section relatively intact. The site is popular with divers and snorkelers alike providing colorful scenery with the entire iron hull encrusted with coral and massive numbers of fish, lobsters, eels and octopus. Film buffs may remember Jacqueline Bisset’s famous t-shirt diving scene in 1977’s The Deep, shot in these waters!

Tired and hungry from our snorkeling adventure, it was now time to motor off to the picturesque Cooper Island.

With only five privately owned properties, twelve hotel rooms, a rum bar, coffee shop, solar powered brewery, restaurant and gift shop, Cooper Island is truly a remote location, perfect for getting away from it all! Thankfully, the facilities are open to guests, day visitors and yachts using the nearby moorings in Manchioneel Bay.

Since, our lunch orders had been called in to the restaurant earlier in the day, we were all seated and served quickly, helping to keep us to our tight schedule.

The last stop of the day was our favorite…Jost Van Dyke.

The smallest of the four main islands of the BVI, Jost Van Dyke measures only three square miles and boasts the nickname The Barefoot Island due to its ultra laid back attitude and large number of bars located in Great Harbor and on beautiful White Bay. If bar hopping is your thing, this is your island!

Wading through the cool, clear waters of White Bay, we made the short walk along the beach to one of the most famous of the bars…The Soggy Dollar. Though our dollars were kept dry in a ziploc bag, we gladly shelled them out for awesome t-shirts, hats and their famous drink, The Painkiller, a concoction of premium dark rum, cream of coconut, pineapple juice, orange juice and Grenadian nutmeg.

The sun was bright, the sands warm, the water cool, the music blaring and the booze flowing…how much more fun can you have?

Sadly, our day was drawing to a close. Climbing on board the Bad Kitty 2, we watched the colorful bars grow smaller as we headed into the deep blue waters of the Caribbean and the setting sun.

St. John was our final stop in order to clear customs back into the United States before heading back to St Thomas. The U.S. is a little more strict than the BVI so tipsy or not, we all had to cover up, act sober, making our way onshore, passports in hand and clear customs.

Thankfully, we were all allowed back in, ending our wonderful day of island hopping in the British Virgin Islands!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Calypso Charters

http://calypsovi.com/
$155 per adult/$95 per child under 12, plus $70 (effective September 1, 2017) cash per guest for BVI customs, immigration, national park fees and port authority fees). Lunch, shopping and gratuity, extra.
Departures from Red Hook Harbor (St. Thomas) and Cruz Bay (St. John)

Cooper Island

http://cooperislandbeachclub.com/

Soggy Dollar Bar

http://www.soggydollar.com/about

Sandy, Sunny Spots…and a Seagull or Two

The Virgin Islands…a haven for sun lovers and beach enthusiasts!

About 24 years had passed since we first visited the Virgin Islands…it was high time that we went back, especially since our children had yet to experience its magnificence.

Deciding that it was best to stay on St. Thomas for a wider array of things to do, we left bright and early and arrived to beautiful, blue skies and warm temperatures.

Though our condominium was located on stunning Sapphire Beach, known for its snorkeling, it was advantageous to have a car in order to experience some of the other beaches located throughout the island.

It is helpful to know that all of St. Thomas’ beaches are public and accessible to anyone, however, visitors should avoid using hotel or condo chairs and other equipment reserved for those staying in these properties.

We tried out three other beaches while visiting St. Thomas…Magen’s Bay, Secret Harbor and Coki Beach.

Magen’s Bay is truly one of the most stunning beaches I have ever visited. Such an impression it made on us all those years ago, we knew we had to make it a priority on this trip.

The drive to Magen’s Bay from the part of the island on which we were staying is a bit harrowing with hairpin turns, narrow lanes and a lack of shoulders, but if you’ve got the guts, you’ll pass some stunning overlooks along the way and be rewarded on your arrival.

After paying our entrance and parking fees, we secured a convenient parking spot and grabbed a picnic table under the shelter of a large, shady tree. Since we had our own beach chairs (courtesy of our condominium) we spread out in the white sand, lathered up and admired the azure waters of Magen’s Bay.

Magen’s Bay public park was donated to the people of the Virgin Islands by Arthur Fairchild and consists of a one mile of white sand beach, a six-acre arboretum with trees from four tropical continents, a two-acre camping ground, five acres of coconut groves and fifteen acres of mangroves and wetlands. It is the only beach on St. Thomas that charges an admission fee which is used to maintain the facilities and the beach.

After relaxing for a while, we then grabbed our snorkels and dove in, eager to see what was below the water’s surface. While our waters at Sapphire Beach offered an amazing amount of coral and marine life, sadly, Magen’s Bay did not. A bit more coral borders the rocky outcropping at each end of the beach, but the most impressive thing we encountered was the large, shoaling silver-side fish whose location was apparent by the diving seagulls.

A perfect day for visiting with no cruise ship in port, the beach was uncrowded even with a group of summer camp-goers learning to paddle board. Though more visitors tend to congregate nearer to the concession stand area, if you desire more privacy, a short walk to either end of the beach will offer more space. We loved swimming in the calm, crystal clear waters and picnicking under the large shady trees. It is advisable to bring a cooler if you have one available. Although there is a concession stand, drinks and food are on the pricey side. Drinks and lunch for a family of four could potentially run over fifty dollars.

Make sure to to wade through the shallow waters to the boulders, on the right side of Magen’s Bay, to experience some rock climbing and amazing photo opportunities.

After Magen’s Bay, trying to decide on another beach was tough. Would any other measure up?

Our next trip was nearer to our end of the island. On our first visit to St. Thomas, many years ago, we stayed in a private home near Secret Harbour. Unspoiled, it was actually a little primitive and unkempt. After a quick walk to check it out, we spent most of our vacation time on St. John since we were so close to the ferry in Red Hook Harbor.

After reading that Secret Harbour beach was considered one of the best beaches on the east end of St. Thomas and we were only a couple of minutes drive from it, we decided to spend the morning there. Parking in front of Secret Harbour Beach Resort, we made our way down the right side of the resort to the dive shop. After inquiring about the best area to snorkel and which part of the beach was best for non-residents, we set up camp on the right side of the beach.

The beach area is not as large as Magen’s Bay but offers many shaded areas due to the large number of palm trees that line the coast. Most of the beach is clean and sandy with the surface becoming a bit more rocky to the right. A swimming raft is located just offshore and a few of the dive operator’s boats are moored in the bay on the right side of the bay.

My husband and sons did a bit of snorkeling along the rocky areas on the right side of the bay which extends quite a ways out. Lots of coral was present as well as a great bit of marine life. The water was calm and perfect for swimming, however, they admitted that at times the water was not as clear as Sapphire Beach or Magen’s Bay.

Two sit-down restaurants are located along the beach area, however, again, it would be advisable to bring a cooler if you don’t plan to have a more formal meal.

After an enjoyable morning at Secret Harbour, it was time to try another nearby strand…Coki Point Beach.

Our final visit, was located on the North East side of the island adjacent to the Coral World Ocean Park. Greeted by a local upon pulling into the parking area, we were charged five dollars to park. Though it is stated that there are no fees to use any of the beaches besides Magen’s Bay, I was a bit skeptical as to whether the locals charge this fee unofficially.

As we made our way to the beach area, we were immediately greeted by a woman offering to get us what we needed…chairs (we had them), food (burgers, chicken and seafood all smelled great), drinks (she actually peeked into our cooler and told me that we need something stronger than water and soda).

The water was clear and calm and deepens gradually, however, the beach was teeming with local families out to enjoy the Friday afternoon and was a bit on the crowded side. Surprisingly, there were large piles of seaweed all along the shore, something I would have thought would have been cleaned up by the many locals in this area, especially those benefiting from the parking fees!

My husband and sons, once again, went out to check out the snorkeling and thought it very similar to Sapphire Beach. The waters were teeming with many species of fish due to the fact that some of the vendors sell food so that snorkelers can attract them for photo opportunities.

Coki Point Beach was a great place to spend a few hours, however, when cruise ships are in port, I have been told that the beach can be quite crowded. The beach has a reputation for locals harassing visitors with offers of hair braiding and souvenirs, although we encountered none of that. There was the distinct odor of marijuana smoke every now and then, although we didn’t actually see anyone partaking.

If you get tired of the atmosphere here, you can wander next door to Coral World where you can come face-to-face with sharks and other underwater creatures. Swimming with sea lions or touching turtles…there’s much to learn about the underwater life that inhabits the waters around St. Thomas. Descend fifteen feet in the undersea observatory tower to marvel at the coral reef, schools of silversides and other fish or take an hour-long cruise on the park’s semi-submarine.

There are many different beaches throughout the island of St. Thomas. Wherever your interest lie, you are sure to find one that fits your needs.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Magen’s Bay

http://www.magensbayauthority.com/rates.html
Address:
Hours: Daily, 0800-1700
Admission: Local Residents: Adults, $2.00, Children under 12 years, Free, Children 13 years and over $2.00. Non-residents and guests: Adult, $5.00, Children under 12 years, Free, Children 13 years and over $5.00. Vehicle parking, $2.00
Concessions: Snack Bar, Bar and Boutique. Beach chairs ($8.00), floats, snorkeling sets, paddle boats, kayaks, and sunfish are available for rent.
Public bathrooms and changing rooms available.
Lifeguards on duty every day. No driving on beach. No bottles. No pets. No jet skis. No nudity.

Secret Harbour

http://www.secretharbourvi.com/
Address: 6280 Estate Nazareth, St Thomas 00802, USVI
Hours: Daily, unlimited
Admission: free
Restaurant: Sunset Grille (1730-1000, daily) and Cruzan Beach Club Bar (0800-1000 Sunday-Thursday, 0800-1100, Friday and Saturday)

Coki Beach

http://www.vinow.com/stt/stt-b/coki-point/
Address: Coki Point Rd, Smith Bay 00802, St. Thomas
Admission: free, Parking, $5.00

Coral World

https://coralworldvi.com/conservation/
Address: 6450 Coki Point, St. Thomas, USVI 00802
Hours: Sunday-Thursday, 0900-1600, closed Friday and Saturday until November 1, 2017. Ticket booth closes at 1500.
Admission: Adults, $20, Children ages 3-12, $11, Children under 3, free. Family Day Pass (2 adults, 4 children, ages 3-21), $65. Local family day pass (2 adults, 4 children), $33. Sea Lion swim, Adults, $127, Children under 13 (over 50 pounds), $118, includes admission. Turtle or Shark Encounter, Adults, $60, Children, ages 3-12, $51, includes admission.

Unplanned Puerto Vallarta

Twenty-four years ago, fresh off a visit to a Sandals resort, my husband and I were lured by the call of the all-inclusive resorts of Puerto Vallarta. Looking to enjoy another comprehensive vacation, we set off from our home to Los Angeles and then on to Puerto Vallarta.

A lengthy cab ride deposited us at our resort and we quickly changed into our swimsuits, eager to enjoy the amenities.

“Oh, you would like to book the dive trip for tomorrow, senora? We are sorry, the boat is broken.”

“Oh, you would like to go to the disco tonight, senor? We are sorry, the disco is being renovated and is closed…indefinitely.”

And the list went on. Nothing worked. Nothing was nice. And the food? Don’t get me started. This was definitely not anything that could compare to Sandals.

A phone call was made to our booking agency that afternoon and we were promised a refund after we informed them that we were leaving the next day.

Three months and the threat of a lawsuit finally got our money back. So, whenever someone mentioned going to Puerto Vallarta…it kind of turned my stomach. Nothing against the city itself. That dreadful resort had just ruined it for me. I had the mentality of “been there, did that” and I never really wanted to go back.

Trying to figure out plans for spring break is always tricky for airline employees as we fly on a stand-by basis and my son has limited time-off due to his baseball schedule. I watch flights for days-on-end, trying to decipher which will end up with seats both to and from tropical destinations. And, though we prefer a tropical destinations, I only told my boys that I would get them somewhere…even if it wasn’t their top choice.

Mother nature, however, had another plan. No one would could have prepared for the weather problems encountered that week, causing massive disruptions to flight schedules. Knowing that we would never get out of our hometown to one of my airlines’ hubs, we jumped in a rental car and made the eight hour drive to Atlanta, where I knew there were many flight originations and many customer’s flights that would not make it the next day due to the continuing cancellations.

My hunch was correct. As I watched three destinations the next morning, all with multiple flights and all with availability at hotels that we had earmarked, seats on those flights slowly began to open up. Quickly, we had to make a decision. We would try one of the earliest, leaving us with other options later in the day. My vote was for Punta Cana, but my boys wanted to try…Puerto Vallarta.

Waiting to reserve the hotel, my husband hit the “Book” button only when we had been given our seat assignments and the door to the aircraft was closed. Whew! We had made it onto a flight! But…what was it going to be like?

Four hours later, I was admiring the blue water and surrounding lush mountainsides as we were touching down at Licenciado Gustavo Díaz Ordaz International Airport.

A swift cab ride from the airport had us arriving at the Hilton’s Puerto Vallarta All-Inclusive Resort, not long after our arrival and we were lounging on the beach, cocktails in hand, by two-thirty. Sunny skies and blue water! What more could you ask for?

Needless to say, we absolutely LOVED this resort…everything worked, our room was upgraded, the service was amazing and the food and drinks, divine!

Happy to have a resort that met our expectations, there was one other thing…I wanted to see this place that I never really got to see.

The next morning, I decided that I would head into town. Gathering advice and instruction from the concierge, I hailed a cab with my boys and headed to the center of Puerto Vallarta and its Malecón, the twelve-block boardwalk along the waterfront.

The Malecón was renovated in 2011, making it more pedestrian friendly. The waterfront area is filled with beautiful sculpture, restaurants, bars, museums, free shows, duty-free shopping and souvenir shops. As we made our way south, we took lots of pictures, shopped, made friends and visited Our Lady of Guadaloupe cathedral, the city’s endearing landmark with its wrought-iron crown tower.

The area felt extremely safe and was exceptionally clean. The local people were very friendly and helpful…just beware, they might spot your wristband and tell you that they met you the night before at your resort, just to lure you in. I was stupid enough to fall for that one!

Though we only spent about three hours enjoying this area, we agreed to come back and bring my husband so that he could also see what he had missed.

Counting out twenty-one pesos, we decided to take the city bus back to the hotel. I love traveling the way locals do…my children…not so much. Still, it was a cheap way to travel and was surprising easy.

There was more fun to experience later in Puerto Vallerta, but this was a great beginning! So happy that we gave it another chance!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Puerto Vallarta

http://visitpuertovallarta.com/
http://www3.hilton.com/en/hotels/jalisco/hilton-puerto-vallarta-resort-PVRPVHF/index.html
Getting There/Airport-Hotel: Cabs are regulated and can be arranged prior to exiting the airport. Approximate taxi fare to our hotel, in a van for four people, was approximately $30. Return fare from hotel, was $10.
Getting There/Malecón: From the Hilton (near marina) a cab cost about $5.00 US. The cabdriver will give you an amount in pesos and will also give an amount in US dollars. The bus is about 7 pesos (about $.40 US) and though a bit of a rough ride, very safe and easy to ride.

A Day in Anguilla

There are many islands in the Caribbean, but none with beaches as pristine and white as Anguilla!

Anguilla, a British territory, lies to the north of St. Maarten and consists of the main island of Anguilla and much smaller unpopulated islands and cays. Only 16 miles long and 3 miles wide at its widest point, it is widely known for its beautiful beaches, sailboat racing and outstanding dining experiences.

Easy to reach by ferry while visiting St. Maarten, you cruise into the Blowing Hole Ferry terminal after a quick 20 minute ride. Hoping to make the 0945 ferry, we arrived at the Marigot terminal, found a parking spot (an almost impossible feat!) purchased tickets, cleared immigration and actually made the 0900 ferry instead.

Planning to rent a car once we had reached the island, we were approached by one of the stewards on the boat who offered a car for $55, taxes and fees included. Since I had already checked out the list of car rental agencies and their prices before we had departed, I knew that this was a fair price. We were able to fill out the paperwork on board the boat, saving time once we arrived. After clearing immigration, we met the steward after exiting the building and was escorted to the car which was running and ready for us a few feet away.

Not quite knowing what the island entailed, we took a quick look at our map and quickly tried to decide which part of the island to explore. Heading to the west, we decided to bypass Rendezvous Bay since it was so close to the ferry terminal and instead drove to Shoal Bay West. Spying a beach covered in seaweed and rough seas, we decided that this was not the place for us. Crossing over to the north side, we tried Mead’s Bay which was calm, clear and beautiful. Everyone being quite hungry, however, decided that we should return to this location after exploring a bit more and finding something to eat.

Continuing eastward, we headed down to the area of Sandy Ground since it appeared to have more hotels and eateries. Driving down the inclined road, there is a beautiful view of Road Bay and the pink-hued salt pond on the right. When we arrived, however, it seemed that things were just being set up on the beach. The bay was full of moored boats and it didn’t seem like a place we wanted to hang out for a while.

During our journey east, we continued our search for lunch in the island’s capital, The Valley. There appeared to be a street fair and some lolos (barbecue stands) being set up in the town area, but nothing more than a Subway, which everyone decided was against the rules (you can’t eat American fast food on vacation in another country, unless it is an emergency!). By this time, the boys were wanting Jamaican patties, so we drove around a bit more looking for a place selling the delectable pies. Unfortunately, the bakery which would have sold them, was closed, strange, being that it was a Saturday. After a bit more driving, we finally decided upon a food truck for our lunch. Food was a bit mediocre, but it got the job done.

During lunch, after reading up a bit in the tourist magazine I picked up on the ferry, I discovered that Shoal Bay East was a beach that was highly recommended. We were not extremely far from this location so we decided to give it a try.

Upon our arrival, we noticed a few taxis dropping lots of tourists off and a couple of parking lots available. We paid five dollars to park and made our way down the road in the direction of the beach. A middle-aged islander sidled up to us and offered to set us up with chairs and umbrellas. We agreed on two chairs and an umbrella for $10, since the boys never sit still. The chair pads and umbrellas were a bit worn but, did the trick.

Taking a look around, I had to admit, this was truly one of the most beautiful beaches I had ever seen. Clear, turquoise and calm water extended out before us and our feet sunk into the soft, white sand. Very few resorts or restaurants were on this long stretch of beach and it was not extremely crowded.

We decided that since we had driven most of the island already and seen what there was to offer, this was where we would spend the afternoon before heading back to the ferry for our return journey.

A relaxing and beautiful day, we hung out, swam, snorkeled and took a walk on the mile-long beach down to the eastern end, where it concludes at the point. At this end, we discovered an extensive protected marine park, which offered up an amazing snorkeling spot.

There were a couple of restaurant’s offering food and some souvenirs…Eric and the boys found some great t-shirts and I got a cool hat!

Finally, we decided to end our day and head back toward the ferry terminal to make the second-to-last ferry (we didn’t want to risk the last one) stopping along the way to grab some drinks and topping off our gas tank.

Overall, we enjoyed our day in Anguilla, however, the burning question remains…would I go back and stay on Anguilla on a future vacation?

Happy to get another stamp in my passport, it was an enjoyable and different way to spend a day on our trip. Originally, I had run the idea by my husband to go straight to Anguilla when we arrived in St. Maarten, stay there for 2 or 3 nights and then return to St. Maarten for the remainder of our vacation. After visiting, however, we realized that the island is very quiet and probably more suited for honeymooning couples rather than a family with teen aged boys seeking continual entertainment. There are apparently some top restaurants located on the island, a plus for foodies, but not for us who enjoy a good meal, but would sometimes just rather have a pizza or a Jamaican patty. During my investigation of the island, I did find that there are some great nightlife spots in Sandy Ground, with bands and dancing on certain nights. Overall, I think that if my husband and I would return, maybe we could enjoy a couple of nights on the island, however, I think a day via ferry was perfect for us at this time.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Anguilla

http://www.anguilla-vacation.com/
http://ivisitanguilla.com/
Ferry Fares (each way): Adults, $20, Children (under 12), $10
Departure Taxes and Security Fee from Anguilla for Day Trippers, Adults, $8
Departure Taxes and Security Fee from Anguilla for Tourists, Adults $23, Children (under 12) $3
Ferry To Anguilla Schedule (from Marigot)
- 8:15AM
- 9:00AM
- 9:45AM
- 10:30AM
- 11:15AM
- 12:00PM
- 12:45PM
- 1:30PM
- 2:15PM
- 3:00PM
- 3:45PM
- 4:30PM
- 5:15PM
- 6:00PM
- 7:00PM (last ferry)
Ferry To St. Martin Schedule (to Marigot)
- 7:30AM
- 8:15AM
- 9:00AM
- 9:45AM
- 10:30AM
- 11:15AM
- 12:00PM
- 12:45PM
- 1:30PM
- 2:15PM
- 3:00PM
- 3:45PM
- 4:30PM
- 5:15PM
- 5:40PM
- 6:15PM (last ferry)
Note: There are charters available to Anguilla from other parts of St. Maarten, both Dutch and French sides.

Thirty-Seven

Thirty-Seven! Yes, there are thirty-seven beaches to visit on the island of St. Maarten!

While we loved the beach in front of our condo, we learned that many people pack up and drive to other beaches seeking a different experience each day.

We checked out a few others on our 8 day trip…here are our thoughts.

Simpson Bay Beach

Simpson Bay Beach parallels the runway of Princess Juliana International Airport and the picturesque fishing village of Simpson Bay. Primarily undeveloped, this beach runs to the foot of the Pointe Burgeaux rocks and was the beach in front of our rental unit. Though a little rougher on some days than the tranquil waters on other beaches, the sand was very soft, the water very close to our door and hardly a soul was ever on our beach.

Although our boys snorkeled the waters many times, no reefs are present and the only things that they ever found were some starfish and a few sand dollars. But the most exciting thing happened one day…we were extremely fortunate to witness a nest of baby turtles hatching and making their way toward the water!

Great Bay Beach

Located in the heart of Philipsburg, a promenade runs most of the way across its length and a great many bars and restaurants line the beach, making it a very convenient place to take in some sun. The waters are flat, clear and warm and there are plenty of beach chairs for rent and jet skis for hire.

Because it is convenient to the cruise ship port, accessible by a convenient water taxi, on cruise ship days, expect it to be quite the hopping place! It is a great place to get some shopping done as many vendors walk along the beach, but a block away there are lots of stores to browse when the sun’s rays get to be a bit too much!

Grand Case

After departing Philipsburg, we headed up the eastern side of the island. Not quite which beach to try next, we decided to stop in the charming fishing village of Grand Case. A little concerned when we first set eyes on the area, we found the beach to be a bit narrow and not many chairs appeared to be available. After walking a bit, a wonderful Frenchman at Le Soleil restaurant offered us the use of his loungers. He was extremely attentive and brought us beers throughout the afternoon and kept an eye on our belongings (though I don’t think there was much risk in our things walking away).

Grand Case Bay is a long narrow beach lined by celebrated gourmet restaurants and smaller barbeque-style eateries known as lolos. The smell from these lolos was divine and we actually came back on another day for lunch!

The water was calm, clear and flat and although not much to see in the way of snorkeling, my boy did find some pretty large starfish. There was also a partially collapsed pier that extended into pretty deep water providing a great place for my boys and some of the local children to do some diving and back-flips. Creole Rock is also located just off-shore and attracts many jet-ski tours, snorkelers and divers.

Dawn Beach

Located on the western side of the island, Dawn Beach was a bit difficult to find. After pulling into the Westin Dawn Beach Resort and Spa and asking the security guard how to find the access point, we were instructed to park in the Westin’s lot and walk along the right side of the property.

Though we found fine sand and beautiful palm trees, there were also continuous piles of seaweed lining the water’s edge as well as extremely rough water. Not spotting many swimmers or sunbathers, we decided to leave the location.

Orient Beach

Often described as the “Saint Tropez of the Caribbean”, we were anxious to see what this beach entailed. Situated on the north-eastern part of the island, it is one of the island’s largest and most popular beaches and well-known for being a clothing optional beach.

Having not planned to spend much time at this beach, as we had heard that chair rental and drinks were quite expensive, we pulled up and took a peek at what there was to offer. There were many restaurants, hotels, shops and water-sport rentals, such as jet skis, kayaks, sailing boats and paragliding trips.

The water was a beautiful shade of blue, although much rougher than what we expected. There were many small beautiful islands dotting the coast, such as Caye Verte, Tintamarre and Pinel Island, the latter of which is accessible by small ferries. Although visiting Pinel Island was tempting, we had just visited Anguilla the day before an decided to stay on the mainland.

Mullet Bay

Mullet Bay was recommended by another visitor at our villa unit. We were told to try and visit on a weekday as weekends were quite busy with locals.

Finally, making our way to this fine-sanded beach, located near a golf course and Maho Bay, we found the parking lot to be quite full…even on a weekday. The beach was quite steep descending into the calm, clear and blue water and extremely packed as three catamarans, filled with cruise ship passengers, were docked in the bay.

There were a large number of chairs for rent and a bar and restaurant. The ruins of the Mullet Bay Resort were visible on the point on the left side of the beach and provided for some nice photographic opportunities.

Maho Beach

Having seen pictures of airplanes flying right over Maho Beach, I have always wanted to visit. World-famous for its unique location right at the business end of the Princess Juliana Airport runway, crowds gather each day to watch airplanes take-off and land. This is a must-see!

More busy when cruise ships are in port, the narrow beach becomes extremely crowded and finding a place to lay a towel is difficult, although leaving anything on the beach makes it susceptible to jet blast blowing it away! Some chairs are available to rent at the Sunset Bar and Grill.

The water is calm, clear and blue and much quieter on days when cruise ships are not in port. There are a couple of restaurants and bars flanking each side of the bay, with the most popular being, Sunset Bar and Grill as well as a small supermarket on the northern end of the beach.

Some snorkeling can be done on the southern end of the beach and you may see the occasional tourist boat docked nearby for this reason.

Each of the many beaches on St. Maarten are different and offer many unique opportunities and amenities. Whatever it is that you are looking for…privacy, snorkeling, dining, watersports, relaxation…there’s a beach for that! Set out in your rental car and see how many you can check out on your vacation!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.