islands – Snapping The Globe

An Island of Color

Crowded vaporettos and August heat…it’s a wonder why anyone makes the trip to the Venetian islands during the summer months!

But with risk comes reward…

Having done the quickie tour of the Venetian islands the week before with some members of my crew, I had observed the uniqueness of Burano, Murano and Torcello and desired to share their beauty with my husband. On that particular trip, we had stopped for a short time on each island, but this time, I wanted to concentrate on only one. Burano, the island of color! With only having had such a short time in Burano, I was looking forward to seeking out every nook and cranny of the vibrant place with no eye on the clock.

Sweating profusely while in almost a full run to make the 9:40a.m. ferry at the Fondamente Nove vaporetto stop, I fully expected a particular question from my husband. It didn’t take long after we arrived…”So why aren’t we going to Murano? I have always wanted to go there.” Since I had visited Murano twice before, I really didn’t want to waste time being escorted into one of the glass blowing demonstrations that I had experienced on my past trips and besides, it was my birthday! I thought that I was going to get to do what I wanted to do!

Putting myself in his shoes, I realized that he doesn’t get to travel like I do and it might be a long time before he gets to come back. I decided to change the plan and told him that we would make the stop in Murano on the way back to the Venice later in the day, even if it was just for a short while.

Soon, we were on our way, squeezed into a row of seats, but thankfully near a window so that we could at least get some air while beads of sweat formed on our foreheads and rivers poured down our backs. The forty minute ride couldn’t have ended quickly enough and breathing a sigh of relief, we set foot on the dock and followed the crowds into the middle of the small village.

The brightly painted houses and shops were awaiting our arrival and we posed on every little bridge for a photo and walked down every small alleyway and canal. My husband was impressed with the intensity of the hues of all of the buildings, but mostly, he was checking out the boats parked in the canals!

After the obligatory photo of my husband pretending to hold up the leaning Il Campanile Storto, we headed in search of Bepi’s House. Not sure what we would find, we knew we had stumbled upon it when we spotted some Instagrammers trying to get the perfect shot.

While multiple hues abound in Burano, the house of Bepi Suà is the most colorful building on the island, decorated with geometric patterns such as circles, squares, and triangles in hues of yellow, orange, red, blue and green. Bepi, born Giuseppe Toselli, was a lover of painting and movies. After his position at the Cinema Favin was eliminated, he began to sell sweets in Galuppi Square and became known as Bepi of Candies. He soon began hosting an outdoor cinema at his house with a white sheet hung on the outside wall for the neighborhood children. Those same children remember him as a the strange man who was always painting new, colorful geometric shapes on those same walls each afternoon. The exterior was everchanging until his death in 2001.

We continued our explorations (with a quick stop for lunch and gelato, of course!) and ended up back at the Il Campanile Storto and its accompanying Church of Saint Martin Vescovo. Entering the church through its Renaissance styled doorway, it was quite interesting to note that the church really had no façade…only a doorway. Established in 1000, it was finally consecrated in 1645 by the Bishop of Torcello. Restored several times over the years, the main aisle and the pipe organ were destroyed by a fire in 1913, a tremendous loss as it was created by Callidio in 1767 and was considered to be one of the greatest masterpieces of the church. Other artistic pieces to seek out today, however, are the statue of Madonna in the atrium and statues of Sant’ Albano and San Martino, on the sides of the tabernacle, by Girolamo Bonazzo and a bronze statue of the “Risen Christ” over the tabernacle. Today, the church is a modest one mostly known for its 18th century leaning bell tower.

The Chapel of Santa Barbara was a short distance away…like next door. While quite small, it serves its purpose as a place of prayer and has its own small bell tower.

Feeling as though we had finally seen the entirety of Burano, we headed to the dock and took our place in the long line while waiting for the vaporetto.

While relief from the hot sun would have been wonderful, it was now time to crowd onto the vaporetto to fulfill my husband’s Murano dream…the least I could do!

Thank goodness it was a short ride!

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Il Campanile Storto

Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi, 20, 30142 Venezia, VE, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Bepi’s House

Address: Corte del Pistor, 275, 30142 Venezia, VE, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Church of Saint Martin Vescovo

Address: Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi, 20, Venice, VE Italy, 30142
Hours: 0800-1200 and 1500-1900, daily
Admission: free

Chapel of Santa Barbara

Address: Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi, 22, Venice, VE Italy, 30142
Hours: 0800-1200 and 1500-1900, daily
Admission: free

Islands in the Sea, Day Six in Croatia

After the constant travel we had experienced on our vacation so far, we decided that we needed a relaxing beach day!

Wanting to explore the nearby Pakleni islands, we decided that renting a boat for the day would be the best option since we own a boat at home and have experience on the water. We awakened early, headed to the small harbor and sought out a vendor. After a lot of questions with a lot of people, we were informed that since the onset of Covid we would not be able to rent the boat ourselves but rather with the assistance of a captain. I don’t know what Covid had to do with any of this, however, the addition of a captain made it quite expensive and much less private than we desired.

Instead, we analyzed the signs along the Riva advertising the water taxis and their destinations.

Palmizana Beach on Sveti Klement Island.

Mlini and Zdrilica beaches on Marinkovac Island.

Kordovon beach on Jerolim Island.

Right away, we knew that Jerolim was out of contention as it’s home to a nudist beach…not that we have a problem with that…it’s just that my body isn’t in as great a shape as it once was! Kordovon beach is one of the oldest Adriatic nudist beaches (established in the 1950s) and has been voted by CNN as the most beautiful naturist beach in Europe…sorry we had to miss it!

When we had solicited the opinions the day before at the Visitor’s bureau, from our waiters and our host, some had suggested Milini for its beauty, others had suggested Palmizana for its sheer size and facilities.

Finally, we decided to just throw caution to the wind and flipped a coin…Palmizana won! We hopped on board the next water taxi, with a handful of other travelers, and held on as our boat made its way across open water towards the islands.

*View of Hvar Town and its mighty fortress.*

A short time later, we approached a dock and were allowed to disembark. Following a path and the other passengers, we made our way to the other side of the island where Palmizana beach spread out before us, sparkling and pristine.

Renting an umbrella and two chairs, we proceeded to relax and enjoy the sun for the majority of the day with a break to enjoy a couple of beers from one of the restaurants that remained open, since it was the last day of the tourist season.

The beach was a bit pebbly and waters crystal clear, albeit a bit cold for our liking, but all in all the adventure was worth it! It was nice to relax after all of our adventures.

During the late afternoon, we headed back to the dock to make the boat crossing back to Hvar Town. My husband was a bit sunburned and anxious to take a break in the apartment, but I spotted the Cathedral of St. Stephen’s doors open, so I opted to take a quick peek!

The cathedral, located on the eastern side of the city square (Pjaca) was built on the site of an early 6th century Christian church and later the Benedictine convent of St. Mary. While the church was decorated much less lavishly than I had expected, since it was decorated by Venetian artists, it did have some redeeming qualities. The side chapels were similar in style and much more ornate than the rest of the décor with heavy marble columns. The stone pulpit dates back to the 15th century and the crucifix, over the altar, is in the Gothic style, while the rest of the church is a blend of Renaissance, Manneristic and Baroque styles.

As I stepped outside to photograph the exterior of one of the most important historical buildings in Hvar and inspect its 17th century bell tower, the priest and another gentleman were hard at work raising a very large canvas portrait of what I assumed was St. Stephen above doorway. Stepping away into the Pjaca, I admired the uniquely styled cathedral in the dwindling afternoon light.

Meeting up with my husband, we proceeded to continue our afternoon sunset observations from the Riva before the dinner hour. The golden light was stunning as it set beyond the islands that we had visited on this day and once again, the yachts began to sail into the harbor, taking their places, sometimes five deep along the dock. With as many boats on this night, surely dinner was going to be a lively affair!

Hvar, while the smaller of the three cities that we visited, was filled with charm and natural beauty. We were only there for two nights, however, it definitely left a mark on us, making me wonder how many other secret spots Croatia had up it sleeve! Tomorrow, however, we were heading back, the final leg of our journey to Dubrovnik, and we were looking forward to see all of the sites we had not had time for during our first few days!

For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

St. Stephen’s Cathedral

Address: Trg Svetog Stjepana 1P, Hvar 21450 HR
Hours: 0900 to 2100, daily
Admission: 10 HKN per person

Pearls of Wisdom

Planning to take a cruise and wanting to make a change?

If you are moving on from your current cruise line and trying to decide on a new one…here is some (hopefully) helpful information on the Norwegian Pearl.

After our disastrous experience with Carnival during Christmastime last year, my kids had sworn off Carnival Cruise Lines for good. The only cruise line they had ever had experience with, our previous trip had given them no cause for a desire to travel with them again this year. Late into port and not docking in St. Kitts had soured their expectations.

After checking out different cruise lines for our Christmas vacation, and their many amenities and itineraries, we finally decided on the Norwegian Pearl.

Our first adventure with Norwegian, we were excited to see the differences between this cruise line and Carnival and Royal Caribbean.

From the very beginning, there were some marked contrasts.

Check In Our first personal interaction with Norwegian was at the cruise terminal. We found the check-in lines to be quite lengthy (stretching out of the building and around the corner) and had to sit in the terminal for quite a bit of time before being allowed to board. This had never happened with our past experiences, but to be fair, we were first-time cruisers…so we had no status. Back of the line anyone?

Accommodations With our past cruises, we had always booked the more affordable rooms…interior cabins and occasionally, a room with a porthole or picture window. This time, we decided that a bit of splurging was in order. Though we still booked the interior room for our children, my husband and I opted to spoil ourselves with a Mini-Suite and balcony. Our room was spacious with a sitting area that afforded us the capacity to enjoy time together as a family away from the crowds. As we sailed away from Tampa, instead of enjoying the festivities on the main deck with people we did not know, we played our own music and enjoyed drinks in our stateroom, hanging on the balcony and watching the Tampa scenery go by in the waning daylight. Without the feeling of claustrophobia that I sometimes felt in the interior rooms, I have to admit, I don’t know if I can ever go back to not having a balcony!

Food There were a few restaurants that were available for dining by reservation and an additional charge; Le Bistro (French, $20 per person), Cagney’s Steakhouse (Seafood, Steakhouse, $30 per person), La Cucina (Italian, $15 per person), Teppanyaki (Japanese Hibachi, $25 per person), Sushi Bar (Asian, a la carte pricing), however, we opted to take our dinners at the main restaurants, Summer Palace, Indigo and Lotus Garden. All were very good and the service impeccable. Our breakfasts and lunches were usually taken at the Garden Cafe and the Great Outdoors in the rear of the ship. Occasional lunches, snacks and late nights were enjoyed at O’Sheehan’s Irish Pub…the fish and chips were amazing!

Drink When we booked our cruise, Norwegian was offering a few perks that we could take advantage of with our booking. The Ultimate Beverage Package was included for both my husband and oldest son which included wine, beer, liquor and cocktails. We also had a $100 on-board credit for one of our rooms which we were able to utilize for a Soda Package for my youngest son. There were many bars throughout the ship and we found that with the Ultimate Beverage Package, we were not cut off at fifteen drinks like on Carnival. Our wonderful ship steward also graciously gifted us with a few bottles of champagne in our stateroom.

Entertainment Award winning entertainment was offered nightly in the Stardust Theater and shows featuring passengers as contestants were offered in the Spinnaker Lounge. The Not So Newlywed Game and Dance Clash were two of the game shows where passengers both competed with each other giving the audience comical diversions. Bliss Ultra Lounge, a trendy nightclub-like hotspot offered live performances, karaoke and even bowling lanes while H2Glow and White Hot parties on the pool deck gave passengers the ability to dance the night away under the stars. One of our favorite places to hang out, however, was the Piano Bar on Deck 6. Requests were taken by the performer and it was quite the experience when the entire bar joined in on the sing-alongs.

Other forms of entertainment along the upper decks consisted of the rock climbing wall, basketball and soccer court, jogging track, shuffleboard, chess, golf, swimming pools and hot tubs.

First-run, barely released movies could be found in the cabins on one of the TV’s movie channels or on the giant LED screen in the atrium and a game room and library were available.

My favorite thing on this ship, however, was something I had never seen on another…and maybe it was just because I didn’t know to search for it. My son was wandering around and came upon a bridge viewing room. A large picture window allowed passengers to look onto the bridge and observe the crew performing the operations necessary to sail the giant vessel. The room also contained some memorabilia and a model of the Pearl.

Fitness Center/Spa Though I didn’t use the gym, I did take a peek inside. Offering the standard weight machines, treadmills, stationary bicycles and ellipticals, it was lot smaller than I anticipated and my son confirmed that it was often crowded. While exploring one day, we ventured into the Mandara Spa and was offered a tour of the facilities. Though not my kind of thing, the most intriguing aspect was the Thermal Suite based on the concept of Turkish Baths and included heated ceramic lounge chairs, a Thalasso Therapy Pool, hot tubs, steam room, sauna, and tropical rain showers.

Sun Decks Last year, our biggest complaint with Carnival was that passengers were allowed to reserve and hold lounge chairs. There were never enough chairs available for passengers although many were chained up and pushed to the side. Finding two seats together was hard, finding five for the entire family…impossible. We found Norwegian to be the complete opposite…there was plenty of deck space and plenty of chairs at all times. I have to admit though, my favorite place to take in the sunshine was on my balcony.

Communication Like Carnival, Norwegian provides an app which guests can download from App Store or Google Play. This app allows passengers to pre-book onboard activities, dining reservations, shore excursions, entertainment as well as view vacation itineraries. The communications feature allows passengers to chat and message each other while onboard, view their account and see what is happening on the ship at all times. A charge of $9.95 per person is charged for use of the communications feature, however, it is well worth the price in order to stay in touch with each other…quite handy since our two rooms were not near each other.

Ports of Call The itinerary for this cruise was Tampa (departure), At Sea, Harvest Caye, Belize, Costa Maya, Mexico, Roatan, Honduras, Grand Cayman, At Sea, Tampa (arrival). We enjoyed our Christmas Day in Harvest Caye relaxing in the sun on our beach chairs. The next day, the biggest surprise was in store for us. Having never checked the map for the location of Costa Maya, I was pleasantly enlightened that it was closer to Belize’s border than to Playa del Carmen, reminding me of my time in Ambergris Caye. So much like the old Mexico that I remembered, we enjoyed both relaxing at the beach in the town of Mahahual and checking out the beautiful, modern port, filled with many activities, shopping and restaurants. Our third port was the most anticipated since we had been wanting to go to Roatan for some time. Sadly, since we were unable to disembark as early as anticipated due to the tendering process, our time in Roatan was limited. West Bay Beach, however, was unbelievable and definitely awakened our curiosity for more of the small island. Our last port, Grand Cayman, was fabulous. A place that we are extremely familiar with, we were excited to not have to worry about trying to figure out what we would do. But, for anyone else, Cayman is full of amazing adventures!

Punctuality Overall, Norwegian stayed on schedule. Our only glitch during the cruise was the tendering process in Roatan. Our arrival in Tampa was another story. Last year, we thought our arrival into Port Canaveral was extremely belated (four hours)…that was until this time around. A heavy fog descended upon the port of Tampa on Saturday, preventing ships from setting sail…a bummer for those departing that day. Our ship was instructed to speed up and attempt to sail into port on Saturday night instead of Sunday morning. Hoping to make it in during an anticipated clear window, we were halted when the fog did not lift as expected. The Norwegian Pearl and three other ships remained off of the coast until the heavy fog dissipated, allowing us all to sail the remaining distance back to Tampa…twelve hours late. Though phone lines were opened for guests to make changes to their travel arrangements and to contact family, it was nearly impossible to get an outside line. Since our travel arrangements could only be done through a secured computer terminal, standing in line for hours to use one of only seven computers available was not an option. After explaining our circumstances to Guest Services, we were told that wifi access would be complimentary using my personal device. Upon our departure, however, we found that we had been charged $80 for an hour’s usage. After our return, I contacted Norwegian and the charge was reversed.

Upon our return and a some time had passed, I looked back on our first experience with Norwegian.

Although there were some negative experiences, I do have to say that we enjoyed our foray with a different cruise line. It was nice to discover a new ship layout and a new overall product.

Was it worth the change? Absolutely.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Norwegian Cruise Lines

https://www.ncl.com
Ship Name: Norwegian Pearl
Itinerary: 7 days, departing Tampa. Ports of call, Harvest Caye, Belize, Costa Maya, Mexico, Roatan, Honduras, Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands

Island Hopping

The Baths.

No, not the kind you take when you are dirty.

The Baths on Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands.

Twenty- four years ago, while visiting St. Thomas, my husband and I booked a boat trip to the British Virgin Islands. One of the stops that day was the Baths on Virgin Gorda. Such an impression it made on us then, we knew that we had to return with our children so that they could see what an extraordinary natural wonder it was.

There are many companies that offer comparable day trips to the British Virgin Islands. After searching the internet, we finally decided on Calypso Tours and the Bad Kitty 2 catamaran. Their five-stop, four island tour gives you an overview of some of the BVI’s most amazing attractions, islands and beaches.

Departing from the St. Thomas passenger ferry terminal, we were all instructed to complete customs and immigration forms, hand in our passports and pay the $60 (per person) Customs and Immigration Fee for our arrival into the British Virgin Islands in Virgin Gorda. With only a peek at our entry port of Spanish Town, we patiently waited onboard while the crew checked us into Customs.

Being cleared, we were on our way, passing the many islands that make up the British Virgins. Our first stop…the Baths.

A collection of massive granite boulders on a white sand beach, The Baths provide some of the most beautiful scenery on the island of Virgin Gorda.

After dropping anchor just offshore and donning life vests, we made the short swim to the beach, many of us holding our Iphones, sealed in plastic baggies, high up in the air! A bit of a risk, but knowing that there was going to be ample photographic opportunities, it was worth it!

Led by our crew, we made our way through and around the colossal boulders, following the natural and man made footpaths and walkways, as they pointed our the many shapes and formations formed by the eroded granite. Climbing and walking through countless natural tidal pools, tunnels, arches and scenic grottoes that opened out to the sea, we eventually found ourselves in the Cathedral….the most photographed of the many rooms which are formed by the adjacent boulders. Tyra Banks fans…you might recognize this as the place of her first Sports Illustrated photo shoot!

After our swim back to the Bad Kitty 2, we were on our way once again with a seagull riding the wind behind us. Our next destination, Salt Island and the wreck of the RMS Rhone.

The RMS Rhone, thought to be an unsinkable ship with its unique brass propeller and iron hull, was caught in a category three hurricane in 1867, and thrown directly into Black Rock Point killing all but 23 on board. Lying in 30-80 feet of water, the wreck is spread out on the ocean floor with her bow section relatively intact. The site is popular with divers and snorkelers alike providing colorful scenery with the entire iron hull encrusted with coral and massive numbers of fish, lobsters, eels and octopus. Film buffs may remember Jacqueline Bisset’s famous t-shirt diving scene in 1977’s The Deep, shot in these waters!

Tired and hungry from our snorkeling adventure, it was now time to motor off to the picturesque Cooper Island.

With only five privately owned properties, twelve hotel rooms, a rum bar, coffee shop, solar powered brewery, restaurant and gift shop, Cooper Island is truly a remote location, perfect for getting away from it all! Thankfully, the facilities are open to guests, day visitors and yachts using the nearby moorings in Manchioneel Bay.

Since, our lunch orders had been called in to the restaurant earlier in the day, we were all seated and served quickly, helping to keep us to our tight schedule.

The last stop of the day was our favorite…Jost Van Dyke.

The smallest of the four main islands of the BVI, Jost Van Dyke measures only three square miles and boasts the nickname The Barefoot Island due to its ultra laid back attitude and large number of bars located in Great Harbor and on beautiful White Bay. If bar hopping is your thing, this is your island!

Wading through the cool, clear waters of White Bay, we made the short walk along the beach to one of the most famous of the bars…The Soggy Dollar. Though our dollars were kept dry in a ziploc bag, we gladly shelled them out for awesome t-shirts, hats and their famous drink, The Painkiller, a concoction of premium dark rum, cream of coconut, pineapple juice, orange juice and Grenadian nutmeg.

The sun was bright, the sands warm, the water cool, the music blaring and the booze flowing…how much more fun can you have?

Sadly, our day was drawing to a close. Climbing on board the Bad Kitty 2, we watched the colorful bars grow smaller as we headed into the deep blue waters of the Caribbean and the setting sun.

St. John was our final stop in order to clear customs back into the United States before heading back to St Thomas. The U.S. is a little more strict than the BVI so tipsy or not, we all had to cover up, act sober, making our way onshore, passports in hand and clear customs.

Thankfully, we were all allowed back in, ending our wonderful day of island hopping in the British Virgin Islands!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Calypso Charters

http://calypsovi.com/
$155 per adult/$95 per child under 12, plus $70 (effective September 1, 2017) cash per guest for BVI customs, immigration, national park fees and port authority fees). Lunch, shopping and gratuity, extra.
Departures from Red Hook Harbor (St. Thomas) and Cruz Bay (St. John)

Cooper Island

http://cooperislandbeachclub.com/

Soggy Dollar Bar

http://www.soggydollar.com/about

Where the Deer and the Tourists Play

The Acropolis…check.

Tulum…check.

Ta Prohm…check.

The Coliseum…check.

Petra…check.

Over the years, my eyes have gazed upon some pretty impressive ruins. Withstanding the test of time (well almost) these magnificent and sometimes mysterious remains mesmerize and captivate.

Honestly, I can’t resist visiting any ruin…big or small…ancient or not so old. The lure of its history and remaining architecture always draws me in, so when I noticed the words “ruin” on my map of St. John, I knew that I had to find time to see what was there.

Cinnamon Bay Plantation ruins lie just across North Shore Road, directly opposite the appropriately named Cinnamon Bay. Parking in the Cinnamon Bay Beach parking lot, cross the road to the beginning of the Cinnamon Bay loop trail and begin your exploration of the historic plantation’s sugar factory’s remains.

An important part of St. John’s history dates back to 1717, when the Danes settled on the island. Founded by Daniel Jensen, the plantation processed sugar cane from the fields into sugar, molasses and rum. While wandering through the Bay, Calabash and Genip trees, you can observe the horse mill where the juice was extracted from the cut cane stalks, the boiling house, where rows of copper kettles continually condensed the syrup to crystal form and the store rooms or “bagasse sheds” where fresh sugar was dried. One of the most impressive structures on the premises is the towering chimney…the rum still.

Further along the Loop Trail lay the crypts of a Danish family that perished on the island as well as the remains of the Great House.

The trail is well laid out, evenly leveled, well maintained and a welcomed respite from the hot, Caribbean sun, with its dense tree covering providing maximum shade. Take some time to wander throughout the interior of the buildings and be on the lookout for the curious deer that meander through the property.

After you are done, cross the road and check out Cinnamon Bay Beach, Resort and Campground where you can rent a cottage, an eco-tent, campsite, kayak, paddleboard or just have a snack or cold beverage at Raintree Cafe. You can also visit the souvenir shop for a special memento of your visit…but alas…no 1717 rum!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Cinnamon Bay Plantation Ruins

https://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/prvi/pr44.htm
Take North Shore Road (Route 20) from Cruz Bay for four miles. At the sign for Cinnamon Bay beach and campgrounds, the ruins are on the right side of the road.

Cinnamon Bay Beach and Resort

https://cinnamonbayresort.com/

Two To Sea

Unspoiled beauty? GO find it in St. John.

The smallest of the three U.S. Virgin Islands, St. John is probably one of the most relaxing and pristine places I have ever been. Though I have never stayed on the island, I have made a few day trips, exploring its beautiful beaches.

Originally, settled by the Arawak and Carib Indians, the United States purchased St. John from the Danish West India and Guinea Company in 1917. In 1956, over 5,000 acres of land was donated to the National Park Service by Laurance Rockefeller, assuring it natural preservation.

There are many magnificent beaches that lie within the National Park, some more easily accessible than others. After our arrival on the car ferry, we decided to drive down Route 20 and start with Trunk Bay, one of the most beloved of St. John’s coves.

Trunk Bay, the most famous of St. John’s beaches is also the most photographed with is perfect crescent shape, towering coconut palms, white sands and small island, Trunk Cay that lies just 30 yards offshore. It attracts large amounts of visitors each day and can get crowded. Trunk Bay also is known for its underwater nature trail which offers snorkelers a self-guided path to follow around Trunk Cay. This is one of my favorite things to do in Trunk Bay…the underwater trail is great not only for children and beginning snorkelers, but for all experience levels. Following the trail is fun, but I always seems to get a bit distracted by the abundance of fish and even what’s going on above the ocean. Trunk Cay attracts many brown pelicans and if you pop your head up, you’ll be greeted by a wave of their wings as they watch you glide by. Make sure to continue snorkeling, watching for squid and indigo blue turnicates that seem to thrive here, well past the nature trail and to the far point of the cay. If you feel comfortable and the water is relatively calm, try snorkeling around the entire cay, although not much coral life is present on the eastern side.

It is easy to spend the entire day at Trunk Bay for the relaxation it provides. Walk down the beach, towards the far ends, away from the other visitors, and secure a spot among the trees to get some shade as you may need it…it gets hot! Trunk Bay, unique from the other beach areas in St. John, boasts a Snack Bar, where you can buy lunch, otherwise, make sure to bring a cooler. Because it is located within the National Park, there are no eateries close by. On the premises, there is also a souvenir shop, shower and restroom facilities, public telephones and lifeguards. Beach chairs and snorkeling gear can be rented. It should also be noted that Trunk Bay is the only beach on St. John that charges an entrance fee.

If you are driving your own car, try to head to Trunk Bay earlier in the day. Parking is limited and fills up quickly. Taxis head out to all the beaches in St. John, stopping when requested. Fare are about $6 per person, each way.

After lunch, we decided to drive further into the National Park to see what other beaches we could sink our toes into. The drive, although winding and narrow at times, offers many scenic overlooks.

There were a few beaches that we drove by, Cinnamon Bay, Jumbie Bay, Maho Bay, some with no parking available, so we continued on until we reached Francis Bay. A little remote, Francis Bay wasn’t as crowded as some of the other beaches. We walked a bit to the right and were greeted by a family who offered to give us their spot with a picnic table. Setting our chairs among the trees for the shade they provided, we soon realized that the cool breezes that we experienced at Trunk Bay were not present. We also discovered that while trying to seek cooler temperatures among the trees, there were thousands of tiny bugs eager to feast on our skin! Yikes! Staying in the water was a must!

Francis Bay is a long, wide beach with white sands and calm green water. It is also a popular mooring for many sailboats each night. If you like snorkeling, however, this is another of our favorite spots.

The center of the bay is mostly sea-grass, but you are apt to see sea turtles and stingrays gliding by. Beginning snorkelers may find it easier to swim at the western end towards Maho Bay, where you’ll find snapper, barracuda, eels, and conch, but more experienced snorkelers may enjoy the rocky, eastern shore.

After my husband and one of my sons headed this way, we couldn’t imagine why they were gone for so long. Eventually, my son returned insisting that we grab out snorkels and fins and join them. Never, ever have I experienced something like this! From afar, the water appears to be black, so the assumption is made that there is nothing but sea-grass. When you dive into this area, you realize that it is something extremely different. Billions of silverside fish swim together blocking out the ocean floor and engulfing the waters around you. It is truly mind boggling as to how many tiny fish you are looking upon! The best part, however, is when you see the fish part, making way for the huge, 6 foot tarpon the patrol the area. These enormous fish, swim near you, unafraid, and provide for amazing underwater photography if you’ve brought your camera. Sadly, we did not, but we left excited for the memory, knowing that one day, we will return to see this spectacle once again.

After returning to our picnic table to refresh with some ice cold water, we decided that we were hot, tired and over bitten and it was time to call it a day!

With so many amazing beaches on St. John, it would be hard to catch them all unless staying on the island. We got to visit two! I’d say we had a pretty good day!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Trunk Bay

http://stjohn-beachguide.com/trunk-bay/
Hours: Facilities open 0800-1630, Lifeguards on duty, 0900-1630, Snack bar/souvenir shop, 0900-1530.
Admission: Individual Day Pass, $5, Children 16 and under, free, Individual Annual Pass, $20, Family Pass, $30
Getting There: From Cruz Bay, take Route 20 (North Shore Road) approximately 2.5 miles until you see the signs for Trunk Bay parking.

Francis Bay

http://stjohn-beachguide.com/francis-bay-2/
Admission: free
Getting There: Take Route 20 (North Shore Road past Maho Bay Beach. The road divides just beyond the end of the beach. Follow the road until you read a “Y”. Keep left to Leinster/Waterlemon. Continue about 1/4 mile down the road where you will see the entrance on the right.

The Danish Fort

Antsy…

That’s me. I used to be the person who loved lying in the sun all day. Now, I still do, but I get these nagging thoughts that I should also being doing something a little more culturally stimulating.

While in St. Thomas, there were so many beaches and islands that we wanted to check out, but I knew that there were some interesting landmarks that I wanted to visit as well.

As we drove through Charlotte Amalie, after our arrival, we passed by Fort Christian. A lovely, dark red building, the fantastic clock tower caught my attention. I knew that we needed to come on another day to explore!

‘After a few rain showers blew through and the skies decided to remain cloudy, I persuaded my family that we should drive into town to see the fort…the fact that there is a souvenir market next door and the promise of some cool t-shirts cemented the deal.

Fort Christian, named for the Danish King Christian V, originated with Governor Jorgen Iversen, after his arrival on May 25, 1672. Four years later, the outer walls and a three story oval tower, Trygborg, had been completed. The fort served its purpose over the years, successfully defending St. Thomas from the French among others, however, it was demilitarized during the 1870s. Undergoing enlargement and repair, it later served as the police headquarters of the Virgin Islands, as well as a town center, a government building and a jail.

A basic square structure with stone curtain walls and diamond-shaped stone bastions at the corners, the Tyygborg tower and north curtain were eventually demolished as well as other parts of the fort. The current Gothic Revival structure, with its Victorian clock tower, which serves as an entrance, was eventually built to replace the north curtain in the 18th century. Today, the bastions and the rooftop can be accessed as well as the living quarters that were later added.

We enjoyed visiting the lower level which houses former cells, displays detailing the fort’s history, chapel and the living quarters. These areas are filled with antiques and gives an idea of the living standards at the time. We did not have a tour guide as we arrived just before three o’clock (last admitting time) however, having an escort would have been a benefit in learning more about the history of the structure and the role it played in protecting the island’s harbor.

Enjoy a visit to Fort Christian…take the time to make your way up top and look out toward the water, the cruise ships and the mountains….you might even spot the Governor’s house! The views are truly fantastic! And when you are done…grab an ice cream or snow-cone to beat the heat and maybe even a souvenir t-shirt!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Fort Christian

https://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/prvi/pr29.htm
Address: Forte Strade, Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas 00801, USVI
Hours: Monday-Friday, 0830-1600. Last admittance, 1500.
Admission: Non-local Adult, $!0, Children, ages 5-12, $7. Local (with ID), $5. Students (school-aged in uniform and/or with ID), $3. Children (4 years and under): free.

Sandy, Sunny Spots…and a Seagull or Two

The Virgin Islands…a haven for sun lovers and beach enthusiasts!

About 24 years had passed since we first visited the Virgin Islands…it was high time that we went back, especially since our children had yet to experience its magnificence.

Deciding that it was best to stay on St. Thomas for a wider array of things to do, we left bright and early and arrived to beautiful, blue skies and warm temperatures.

Though our condominium was located on stunning Sapphire Beach, known for its snorkeling, it was advantageous to have a car in order to experience some of the other beaches located throughout the island.

It is helpful to know that all of St. Thomas’ beaches are public and accessible to anyone, however, visitors should avoid using hotel or condo chairs and other equipment reserved for those staying in these properties.

We tried out three other beaches while visiting St. Thomas…Magen’s Bay, Secret Harbor and Coki Beach.

Magen’s Bay is truly one of the most stunning beaches I have ever visited. Such an impression it made on us all those years ago, we knew we had to make it a priority on this trip.

The drive to Magen’s Bay from the part of the island on which we were staying is a bit harrowing with hairpin turns, narrow lanes and a lack of shoulders, but if you’ve got the guts, you’ll pass some stunning overlooks along the way and be rewarded on your arrival.

After paying our entrance and parking fees, we secured a convenient parking spot and grabbed a picnic table under the shelter of a large, shady tree. Since we had our own beach chairs (courtesy of our condominium) we spread out in the white sand, lathered up and admired the azure waters of Magen’s Bay.

Magen’s Bay public park was donated to the people of the Virgin Islands by Arthur Fairchild and consists of a one mile of white sand beach, a six-acre arboretum with trees from four tropical continents, a two-acre camping ground, five acres of coconut groves and fifteen acres of mangroves and wetlands. It is the only beach on St. Thomas that charges an admission fee which is used to maintain the facilities and the beach.

After relaxing for a while, we then grabbed our snorkels and dove in, eager to see what was below the water’s surface. While our waters at Sapphire Beach offered an amazing amount of coral and marine life, sadly, Magen’s Bay did not. A bit more coral borders the rocky outcropping at each end of the beach, but the most impressive thing we encountered was the large, shoaling silver-side fish whose location was apparent by the diving seagulls.

A perfect day for visiting with no cruise ship in port, the beach was uncrowded even with a group of summer camp-goers learning to paddle board. Though more visitors tend to congregate nearer to the concession stand area, if you desire more privacy, a short walk to either end of the beach will offer more space. We loved swimming in the calm, crystal clear waters and picnicking under the large shady trees. It is advisable to bring a cooler if you have one available. Although there is a concession stand, drinks and food are on the pricey side. Drinks and lunch for a family of four could potentially run over fifty dollars.

Make sure to to wade through the shallow waters to the boulders, on the right side of Magen’s Bay, to experience some rock climbing and amazing photo opportunities.

After Magen’s Bay, trying to decide on another beach was tough. Would any other measure up?

Our next trip was nearer to our end of the island. On our first visit to St. Thomas, many years ago, we stayed in a private home near Secret Harbour. Unspoiled, it was actually a little primitive and unkempt. After a quick walk to check it out, we spent most of our vacation time on St. John since we were so close to the ferry in Red Hook Harbor.

After reading that Secret Harbour beach was considered one of the best beaches on the east end of St. Thomas and we were only a couple of minutes drive from it, we decided to spend the morning there. Parking in front of Secret Harbour Beach Resort, we made our way down the right side of the resort to the dive shop. After inquiring about the best area to snorkel and which part of the beach was best for non-residents, we set up camp on the right side of the beach.

The beach area is not as large as Magen’s Bay but offers many shaded areas due to the large number of palm trees that line the coast. Most of the beach is clean and sandy with the surface becoming a bit more rocky to the right. A swimming raft is located just offshore and a few of the dive operator’s boats are moored in the bay on the right side of the bay.

My husband and sons did a bit of snorkeling along the rocky areas on the right side of the bay which extends quite a ways out. Lots of coral was present as well as a great bit of marine life. The water was calm and perfect for swimming, however, they admitted that at times the water was not as clear as Sapphire Beach or Magen’s Bay.

Two sit-down restaurants are located along the beach area, however, again, it would be advisable to bring a cooler if you don’t plan to have a more formal meal.

After an enjoyable morning at Secret Harbour, it was time to try another nearby strand…Coki Point Beach.

Our final visit, was located on the North East side of the island adjacent to the Coral World Ocean Park. Greeted by a local upon pulling into the parking area, we were charged five dollars to park. Though it is stated that there are no fees to use any of the beaches besides Magen’s Bay, I was a bit skeptical as to whether the locals charge this fee unofficially.

As we made our way to the beach area, we were immediately greeted by a woman offering to get us what we needed…chairs (we had them), food (burgers, chicken and seafood all smelled great), drinks (she actually peeked into our cooler and told me that we need something stronger than water and soda).

The water was clear and calm and deepens gradually, however, the beach was teeming with local families out to enjoy the Friday afternoon and was a bit on the crowded side. Surprisingly, there were large piles of seaweed all along the shore, something I would have thought would have been cleaned up by the many locals in this area, especially those benefiting from the parking fees!

My husband and sons, once again, went out to check out the snorkeling and thought it very similar to Sapphire Beach. The waters were teeming with many species of fish due to the fact that some of the vendors sell food so that snorkelers can attract them for photo opportunities.

Coki Point Beach was a great place to spend a few hours, however, when cruise ships are in port, I have been told that the beach can be quite crowded. The beach has a reputation for locals harassing visitors with offers of hair braiding and souvenirs, although we encountered none of that. There was the distinct odor of marijuana smoke every now and then, although we didn’t actually see anyone partaking.

If you get tired of the atmosphere here, you can wander next door to Coral World where you can come face-to-face with sharks and other underwater creatures. Swimming with sea lions or touching turtles…there’s much to learn about the underwater life that inhabits the waters around St. Thomas. Descend fifteen feet in the undersea observatory tower to marvel at the coral reef, schools of silversides and other fish or take an hour-long cruise on the park’s semi-submarine.

There are many different beaches throughout the island of St. Thomas. Wherever your interest lie, you are sure to find one that fits your needs.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Magen’s Bay

http://www.magensbayauthority.com/rates.html
Address:
Hours: Daily, 0800-1700
Admission: Local Residents: Adults, $2.00, Children under 12 years, Free, Children 13 years and over $2.00. Non-residents and guests: Adult, $5.00, Children under 12 years, Free, Children 13 years and over $5.00. Vehicle parking, $2.00
Concessions: Snack Bar, Bar and Boutique. Beach chairs ($8.00), floats, snorkeling sets, paddle boats, kayaks, and sunfish are available for rent.
Public bathrooms and changing rooms available.
Lifeguards on duty every day. No driving on beach. No bottles. No pets. No jet skis. No nudity.

Secret Harbour

http://www.secretharbourvi.com/
Address: 6280 Estate Nazareth, St Thomas 00802, USVI
Hours: Daily, unlimited
Admission: free
Restaurant: Sunset Grille (1730-1000, daily) and Cruzan Beach Club Bar (0800-1000 Sunday-Thursday, 0800-1100, Friday and Saturday)

Coki Beach

http://www.vinow.com/stt/stt-b/coki-point/
Address: Coki Point Rd, Smith Bay 00802, St. Thomas
Admission: free, Parking, $5.00

Coral World

https://coralworldvi.com/conservation/
Address: 6450 Coki Point, St. Thomas, USVI 00802
Hours: Sunday-Thursday, 0900-1600, closed Friday and Saturday until November 1, 2017. Ticket booth closes at 1500.
Admission: Adults, $20, Children ages 3-12, $11, Children under 3, free. Family Day Pass (2 adults, 4 children, ages 3-21), $65. Local family day pass (2 adults, 4 children), $33. Sea Lion swim, Adults, $127, Children under 13 (over 50 pounds), $118, includes admission. Turtle or Shark Encounter, Adults, $60, Children, ages 3-12, $51, includes admission.

Picturesque Phillipsburg

St. Maarten is an island divided between two nations…the French and the Dutch.

The two neighboring countries live in harmony and travel across the border between the two sides is not regulated. In fact, while driving, if you did not encounter the “welcome” signs as you cross the border, you would not realize the change except for the few features that set them apart.

The island was split into two parts after the Treaty of Concordia in 1648. The larger, northern part was granted to France (Saint Martin) and the southern part (St. Maarten) was given to the Netherlands.

Many visitors to St. Maarten arrive by cruise ship which docks at the port in Philipsburg, the island’s capital, founded in 1763, by John Philips, a Scottish naval captain. Visitors enjoy the Dutch side for its casinos and duty-free bargains, art galleries and historic forts, while many visitors flock to the French side for its shops filled with French fashions and imported Gallic goodies as well as its beautiful beaches.

If you are not arriving by cruise ship, a short drive to visit to Philipsburg during your stay is a must as there are many things to see and do.

If you are an architecture lover, you will appreciate the many buildings that line Front Street. As opposed to the French side and its French Colonial and Creole buildings, the colorful half-timbered Dutch houses are the pride of their inhabitants. As you wander along, these buildings give off an air of friendliness and hospitality with their elaborate carvings and wrought iron balconies.

The Courthouse, built is 1793, as the home of Commander John Philips, has served as a court for successive governors, a fire station, a jail and a post office during its long existence in the town. One of the island’s most prominent landmarks, it is easy to spot on the main street. It is owned by the government of St. Maarten and maintains a spot on the list of major historic monuments.

Another building worth noting is St. Martin of Tours Catholic church. While the interior is quite plain, the exterior is bright and Caribbean-like maintains a location facing the beach. Another more impressive church belongs to the Methodists on Front Street. Sometimes referred to as the Old English or Wesleyan Church, it is a beautiful wooden clapboard structure with light blue accents. Built in 1978, it replaced the original church which was built in 1851. The inside is quite interesting with its blue and red accented galleries and wooden walls and ceilings, giving it a ship-like feel.

If you are in the mood to get out of the heat and learn a few things, a couple of museums exist in Philipsburg. The Yoda Guy Movie Exhibit (see my post, “The Yoda Guy”) run by artist and movie effects specialist, Nick Maley, is a fun place for the family and Star Wars fans. The Sint Maarten Museum is a great place to learn about the island’s rich heritage.

Shopper alert!!! There are many duty free options where you can buy a treasure trove of items. St. Maarten, a free port, has no local sales taxes, VAT or other indirect prices. Diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, settings, bands, watches, electronics, perfumes…they are all here. Make sure you do your homework and be prepared to bargain.

Liquor prices on the island are some of the lowest I have ever seen. Many cruise ships will tell you that you can bring back five bottles of liquor per person, however, US customs allows one liter per person.

There is also a stall-type craft market that runs to Front Street. The vendors are extremely friendly, not pushy and willing to bargain. If you say no…they back off, unlike many other islands that I have visited. We did find that venturing into Philipsburg ensured better bargains and of course, less congestion, on days when cruise ships were not in port.

Another thing that I absolutely loved about Philipsburg was Great Bay and the beautiful beach that acts as a border between the many cafes and bars and the pristine, blue water. Tired of walking along Front Street? Take the boardwalk that runs the entire length of the beach. Some in your party don’t want to shop? Get them a chair and an umbrella. They can refine their tans while you shop til you drop! Great Bay and its beautiful beach is very unique and sets it apart from many other Caribbean islands that I have visited.

Whatever you decide to do in Philipsburg…eat, drink, stroll, shop, photograph or tan…you won’t be disappointed. It may be a cruise port, but one with a distinct character that has much to offer.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Philipsburg

Philipsburg Courthouse, Front Street, Philipsburg, St. Maarten
Philipsburg Craft Market, behind the Courthouse, between Front Street and Back Street
St. Martin of Tours, 51 Front Street, St. Maarten, Voorstraat, Philipsburg, St. Maarten, http://www.catholicchurchsxm.org/
Methodist Church, Front Street, St. Maarten, Philipsburg, Sint Maarten
Yoda Guy Movie Exhibit, 19a Front Street, St. Maarten, http://netdwellers.com/mz/planetp/home.html
Sint Maarten Museum, 7 Front Street, St. Maarten, http://www.museumsintmaarten.org/
Map of Philipsburg, St. Maarten, http://www.caribbean-on-line.com/islands/sm/pbmap.shtml

Thirty-Seven

Thirty-Seven! Yes, there are thirty-seven beaches to visit on the island of St. Maarten!

While we loved the beach in front of our condo, we learned that many people pack up and drive to other beaches seeking a different experience each day.

We checked out a few others on our 8 day trip…here are our thoughts.

Simpson Bay Beach

Simpson Bay Beach parallels the runway of Princess Juliana International Airport and the picturesque fishing village of Simpson Bay. Primarily undeveloped, this beach runs to the foot of the Pointe Burgeaux rocks and was the beach in front of our rental unit. Though a little rougher on some days than the tranquil waters on other beaches, the sand was very soft, the water very close to our door and hardly a soul was ever on our beach.

Although our boys snorkeled the waters many times, no reefs are present and the only things that they ever found were some starfish and a few sand dollars. But the most exciting thing happened one day…we were extremely fortunate to witness a nest of baby turtles hatching and making their way toward the water!

Great Bay Beach

Located in the heart of Philipsburg, a promenade runs most of the way across its length and a great many bars and restaurants line the beach, making it a very convenient place to take in some sun. The waters are flat, clear and warm and there are plenty of beach chairs for rent and jet skis for hire.

Because it is convenient to the cruise ship port, accessible by a convenient water taxi, on cruise ship days, expect it to be quite the hopping place! It is a great place to get some shopping done as many vendors walk along the beach, but a block away there are lots of stores to browse when the sun’s rays get to be a bit too much!

Grand Case

After departing Philipsburg, we headed up the eastern side of the island. Not quite which beach to try next, we decided to stop in the charming fishing village of Grand Case. A little concerned when we first set eyes on the area, we found the beach to be a bit narrow and not many chairs appeared to be available. After walking a bit, a wonderful Frenchman at Le Soleil restaurant offered us the use of his loungers. He was extremely attentive and brought us beers throughout the afternoon and kept an eye on our belongings (though I don’t think there was much risk in our things walking away).

Grand Case Bay is a long narrow beach lined by celebrated gourmet restaurants and smaller barbeque-style eateries known as lolos. The smell from these lolos was divine and we actually came back on another day for lunch!

The water was calm, clear and flat and although not much to see in the way of snorkeling, my boy did find some pretty large starfish. There was also a partially collapsed pier that extended into pretty deep water providing a great place for my boys and some of the local children to do some diving and back-flips. Creole Rock is also located just off-shore and attracts many jet-ski tours, snorkelers and divers.

Dawn Beach

Located on the western side of the island, Dawn Beach was a bit difficult to find. After pulling into the Westin Dawn Beach Resort and Spa and asking the security guard how to find the access point, we were instructed to park in the Westin’s lot and walk along the right side of the property.

Though we found fine sand and beautiful palm trees, there were also continuous piles of seaweed lining the water’s edge as well as extremely rough water. Not spotting many swimmers or sunbathers, we decided to leave the location.

Orient Beach

Often described as the “Saint Tropez of the Caribbean”, we were anxious to see what this beach entailed. Situated on the north-eastern part of the island, it is one of the island’s largest and most popular beaches and well-known for being a clothing optional beach.

Having not planned to spend much time at this beach, as we had heard that chair rental and drinks were quite expensive, we pulled up and took a peek at what there was to offer. There were many restaurants, hotels, shops and water-sport rentals, such as jet skis, kayaks, sailing boats and paragliding trips.

The water was a beautiful shade of blue, although much rougher than what we expected. There were many small beautiful islands dotting the coast, such as Caye Verte, Tintamarre and Pinel Island, the latter of which is accessible by small ferries. Although visiting Pinel Island was tempting, we had just visited Anguilla the day before an decided to stay on the mainland.

Mullet Bay

Mullet Bay was recommended by another visitor at our villa unit. We were told to try and visit on a weekday as weekends were quite busy with locals.

Finally, making our way to this fine-sanded beach, located near a golf course and Maho Bay, we found the parking lot to be quite full…even on a weekday. The beach was quite steep descending into the calm, clear and blue water and extremely packed as three catamarans, filled with cruise ship passengers, were docked in the bay.

There were a large number of chairs for rent and a bar and restaurant. The ruins of the Mullet Bay Resort were visible on the point on the left side of the beach and provided for some nice photographic opportunities.

Maho Beach

Having seen pictures of airplanes flying right over Maho Beach, I have always wanted to visit. World-famous for its unique location right at the business end of the Princess Juliana Airport runway, crowds gather each day to watch airplanes take-off and land. This is a must-see!

More busy when cruise ships are in port, the narrow beach becomes extremely crowded and finding a place to lay a towel is difficult, although leaving anything on the beach makes it susceptible to jet blast blowing it away! Some chairs are available to rent at the Sunset Bar and Grill.

The water is calm, clear and blue and much quieter on days when cruise ships are not in port. There are a couple of restaurants and bars flanking each side of the bay, with the most popular being, Sunset Bar and Grill as well as a small supermarket on the northern end of the beach.

Some snorkeling can be done on the southern end of the beach and you may see the occasional tourist boat docked nearby for this reason.

Each of the many beaches on St. Maarten are different and offer many unique opportunities and amenities. Whatever it is that you are looking for…privacy, snorkeling, dining, watersports, relaxation…there’s a beach for that! Set out in your rental car and see how many you can check out on your vacation!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.