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Unspoiled beauty? GO find it in St. John.
The smallest of the three U.S. Virgin Islands, St. John is probably one of the most relaxing and pristine places I have ever been. Though I have never stayed on the island, I have made a few day trips, exploring its beautiful beaches.
Originally, settled by the Arawak and Carib Indians, the United States purchased St. John from the Danish West India and Guinea Company in 1917. In 1956, over 5,000 acres of land was donated to the National Park Service by Laurance Rockefeller, assuring it natural preservation.
There are many magnificent beaches that lie within the National Park, some more easily accessible than others. After our arrival on the car ferry, we decided to drive down Route 20 and start with Trunk Bay, one of the most beloved of St. John’s coves.
Trunk Bay, the most famous of St. John’s beaches is also the most photographed with is perfect crescent shape, towering coconut palms, white sands and small island, Trunk Cay that lies just 30 yards offshore. It attracts large amounts of visitors each day and can get crowded. Trunk Bay also is known for its underwater nature trail which offers snorkelers a self-guided path to follow around Trunk Cay. This is one of my favorite things to do in Trunk Bay…the underwater trail is great not only for children and beginning snorkelers, but for all experience levels. Following the trail is fun, but I always seems to get a bit distracted by the abundance of fish and even what’s going on above the ocean. Trunk Cay attracts many brown pelicans and if you pop your head up, you’ll be greeted by a wave of their wings as they watch you glide by. Make sure to continue snorkeling, watching for squid and indigo blue turnicates that seem to thrive here, well past the nature trail and to the far point of the cay. If you feel comfortable and the water is relatively calm, try snorkeling around the entire cay, although not much coral life is present on the eastern side.
It is easy to spend the entire day at Trunk Bay for the relaxation it provides. Walk down the beach, towards the far ends, away from the other visitors, and secure a spot among the trees to get some shade as you may need it…it gets hot! Trunk Bay, unique from the other beach areas in St. John, boasts a Snack Bar, where you can buy lunch, otherwise, make sure to bring a cooler. Because it is located within the National Park, there are no eateries close by. On the premises, there is also a souvenir shop, shower and restroom facilities, public telephones and lifeguards. Beach chairs and snorkeling gear can be rented. It should also be noted that Trunk Bay is the only beach on St. John that charges an entrance fee.
If you are driving your own car, try to head to Trunk Bay earlier in the day. Parking is limited and fills up quickly. Taxis head out to all the beaches in St. John, stopping when requested. Fare are about $6 per person, each way.
After lunch, we decided to drive further into the National Park to see what other beaches we could sink our toes into. The drive, although winding and narrow at times, offers many scenic overlooks.
There were a few beaches that we drove by, Cinnamon Bay, Jumbie Bay, Maho Bay, some with no parking available, so we continued on until we reached Francis Bay. A little remote, Francis Bay wasn’t as crowded as some of the other beaches. We walked a bit to the right and were greeted by a family who offered to give us their spot with a picnic table. Setting our chairs among the trees for the shade they provided, we soon realized that the cool breezes that we experienced at Trunk Bay were not present. We also discovered that while trying to seek cooler temperatures among the trees, there were thousands of tiny bugs eager to feast on our skin! Yikes! Staying in the water was a must!
Francis Bay is a long, wide beach with white sands and calm green water. It is also a popular mooring for many sailboats each night. If you like snorkeling, however, this is another of our favorite spots.
The center of the bay is mostly sea-grass, but you are apt to see sea turtles and stingrays gliding by. Beginning snorkelers may find it easier to swim at the western end towards Maho Bay, where you’ll find snapper, barracuda, eels, and conch, but more experienced snorkelers may enjoy the rocky, eastern shore.
After my husband and one of my sons headed this way, we couldn’t imagine why they were gone for so long. Eventually, my son returned insisting that we grab out snorkels and fins and join them. Never, ever have I experienced something like this! From afar, the water appears to be black, so the assumption is made that there is nothing but sea-grass. When you dive into this area, you realize that it is something extremely different. Billions of silverside fish swim together blocking out the ocean floor and engulfing the waters around you. It is truly mind boggling as to how many tiny fish you are looking upon! The best part, however, is when you see the fish part, making way for the huge, 6 foot tarpon the patrol the area. These enormous fish, swim near you, unafraid, and provide for amazing underwater photography if you’ve brought your camera. Sadly, we did not, but we left excited for the memory, knowing that one day, we will return to see this spectacle once again.
After returning to our picnic table to refresh with some ice cold water, we decided that we were hot, tired and over bitten and it was time to call it a day!
With so many amazing beaches on St. John, it would be hard to catch them all unless staying on the island. We got to visit two! I’d say we had a pretty good day!
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Trunk Bay
- http://stjohn-beachguide.com/trunk-bay/
- Hours: Facilities open 0800-1630, Lifeguards on duty, 0900-1630, Snack bar/souvenir shop, 0900-1530.
- Admission: Individual Day Pass, $5, Children 16 and under, free, Individual Annual Pass, $20, Family Pass, $30
- Getting There: From Cruz Bay, take Route 20 (North Shore Road) approximately 2.5 miles until you see the signs for Trunk Bay parking.
Francis Bay
- http://stjohn-beachguide.com/francis-bay-2/
- Admission: free
- Getting There: Take Route 20 (North Shore Road past Maho Bay Beach. The road divides just beyond the end of the beach. Follow the road until you read a “Y”. Keep left to Leinster/Waterlemon. Continue about 1/4 mile down the road where you will see the entrance on the right.