Burano – Snapping The Globe

Crowded vaporettos and August heat…it’s a wonder why anyone makes the trip to the Venetian islands during the summer months!

But with risk comes reward…

Having done the quickie tour of the Venetian islands the week before with some members of my crew, I had observed the uniqueness of Burano, Murano and Torcello and desired to share their beauty with my husband. On that particular trip, we had stopped for a short time on each island, but this time, I wanted to concentrate on only one. Burano, the island of color! With only having had such a short time in Burano, I was looking forward to seeking out every nook and cranny of the vibrant place with no eye on the clock.

Sweating profusely while in almost a full run to make the 9:40a.m. ferry at the Fondamente Nove vaporetto stop, I fully expected a particular question from my husband. It didn’t take long after we arrived…”So why aren’t we going to Murano? I have always wanted to go there.” Since I had visited Murano twice before, I really didn’t want to waste time being escorted into one of the glass blowing demonstrations that I had experienced on my past trips and besides, it was my birthday! I thought that I was going to get to do what I wanted to do!

Putting myself in his shoes, I realized that he doesn’t get to travel like I do and it might be a long time before he gets to come back. I decided to change the plan and told him that we would make the stop in Murano on the way back to the Venice later in the day, even if it was just for a short while.

Soon, we were on our way, squeezed into a row of seats, but thankfully near a window so that we could at least get some air while beads of sweat formed on our foreheads and rivers poured down our backs. The forty minute ride couldn’t have ended quickly enough and breathing a sigh of relief, we set foot on the dock and followed the crowds into the middle of the small village.

The brightly painted houses and shops were awaiting our arrival and we posed on every little bridge for a photo and walked down every small alleyway and canal. My husband was impressed with the intensity of the hues of all of the buildings, but mostly, he was checking out the boats parked in the canals!

After the obligatory photo of my husband pretending to hold up the leaning Il Campanile Storto, we headed in search of Bepi’s House. Not sure what we would find, we knew we had stumbled upon it when we spotted some Instagrammers trying to get the perfect shot.

While multiple hues abound in Burano, the house of Bepi Suà is the most colorful building on the island, decorated with geometric patterns such as circles, squares, and triangles in hues of yellow, orange, red, blue and green. Bepi, born Giuseppe Toselli, was a lover of painting and movies. After his position at the Cinema Favin was eliminated, he began to sell sweets in Galuppi Square and became known as Bepi of Candies. He soon began hosting an outdoor cinema at his house with a white sheet hung on the outside wall for the neighborhood children. Those same children remember him as a the strange man who was always painting new, colorful geometric shapes on those same walls each afternoon. The exterior was everchanging until his death in 2001.

We continued our explorations (with a quick stop for lunch and gelato, of course!) and ended up back at the Il Campanile Storto and its accompanying Church of Saint Martin Vescovo. Entering the church through its Renaissance styled doorway, it was quite interesting to note that the church really had no façade…only a doorway. Established in 1000, it was finally consecrated in 1645 by the Bishop of Torcello. Restored several times over the years, the main aisle and the pipe organ were destroyed by a fire in 1913, a tremendous loss as it was created by Callidio in 1767 and was considered to be one of the greatest masterpieces of the church. Other artistic pieces to seek out today, however, are the statue of Madonna in the atrium and statues of Sant’ Albano and San Martino, on the sides of the tabernacle, by Girolamo Bonazzo and a bronze statue of the “Risen Christ” over the tabernacle. Today, the church is a modest one mostly known for its 18th century leaning bell tower.

The Chapel of Santa Barbara was a short distance away…like next door. While quite small, it serves its purpose as a place of prayer and has its own small bell tower.

Feeling as though we had finally seen the entirety of Burano, we headed to the dock and took our place in the long line while waiting for the vaporetto.

While relief from the hot sun would have been wonderful, it was now time to crowd onto the vaporetto to fulfill my husband’s Murano dream…the least I could do!

Thank goodness it was a short ride!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Il Campanile Storto

Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi, 20, 30142 Venezia, VE, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Bepi’s House

Address: Corte del Pistor, 275, 30142 Venezia, VE, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Church of Saint Martin Vescovo

Address: Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi, 20, Venice, VE Italy, 30142
Hours: 0800-1200 and 1500-1900, daily
Admission: free

Chapel of Santa Barbara

Address: Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi, 22, Venice, VE Italy, 30142
Hours: 0800-1200 and 1500-1900, daily
Admission: free

When I began thinking about writing this post, the first things that popped into my head was the song from Gilligan’s Island.

Just sit right back and you hear a tale, a tale of a fateful trip…

While we were on a three hour tour (or pretty close) and we kind of had a skipper and a first mate (the two who planned the tour). The only things in common with Gilligan’s outing was that we were taking a boat and heading to some islands, but we were praying that it would not be a fateful trip! Thankfully, it was anything but, however, there were some times I was doubtful.

Although I had been to the Venetian island of Murano, many years ago, I had never made it to any of the others. When approached by some of my friends about taking a tour that his wife had set up, I instantly agreed. It sounded like a day of sun and fun! It also ended up being a day with a few challenges!

Finding out where our boat would be picking us up was the first challenge. We wondered if we had walked over the bridge to the wrong location, but after some pacing, self-doubt and frantic internet searches, we saw the boat sidling up to the pier…a few minutes late.

Making our way across the gangplank, we were on our way.

First stop, Murano.

The ride across the Venetian Lagoon was not long, however, we were fortunate that one of us had the forethought to bring a small ice chest filled with champagne and beer…you know…to pass the time. Now, whether this was allowed or not…I can only say that we were not asked to stop and we even shared with some other tourists!

A couple of drinks later, I noticed that the lighthouse at the entrance to the harbor of Murano was growing closer. Making our way into the main canal, the boat eventually pulled up to the pier, allowing us to disembark. We were ushered into one of the many glassmaking studios to witness a glassblowing demonstration, which I remembered from my first visit. After its completion, I made my way along the canal boardwalk. Peering into the many Venetian glass shops, I admired the artistry, resisting the temptation to pull out my wallet and bring home a few colorful pieces.

Keeping up my walk and an eye on the time, my internal radar led me to…what else? A church. The Renaissance church of Santa Maria degli Angeli was built in 1188 and then rebuilt in 1529. Though it was not open, I was able to make my way throughout the property and admire the exterior architecture.

Returning to the banks of the Canale degli Angeli, I strolled along, photographing and admiring the beauty of the day and my surroundings. The last time I had been here, was during winter. Bitterly cold, we had only concentrated on a few shops that day and one of the glassblowing demonstrations. In the bright sunshine of this summer day, the buildings were distinctive and the water sparkled. It was much more stunning than I had remembered.

I spotted my companions up ahead near the Ponte Longo Lino Toffolo (bridge). Pausing for some quick photos, we then ran back to the meeting point to depart on our boat for the next island, Torcello.

A short ride later, with some additional drinks and snacks picked up in Murano, we were arriving at the island’s pier. Time was limited and I wanted to see as much as I could. While my travel companions opted to take a seat at one of the restaurants to have another drink, I headed to the 7th century Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta. A small line snaked from the entrance, so I opted to only enter the Byzantine Church of Santa Fosca and walk the grounds of the church and the Museo Provinciale di Torcello.

*Grounds of* *Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta*

As in Murano, time was limited and I made sure to leave enough for the long walk back to the pier, so as not to miss our boat’s departure. Running into one of my colleagues, we quickly walked to the gangplank, however, not seeing our other companions, whom he had left earlier at the restaurant, we begged the guide to wait a few more minutes. Running to the corner, we did not see them and quickly made the decision that we would miss the boat if they did not show. Finally, they came strolling around the corner! Thankfully, the boat had waited and we all hastily hopped on board, ready for Burano.

Thankful that we had all made it and didn’t have to figure out our own way to Burano or back to Venice, I eagerly anticipated our next stop. Burano, is the island that I was most excited for. Over the years, I had seen pictures and always planned for a trip. Usually arriving into Venice at mid-day, it was always a bit tough to make it to the ferry and over to Burano and back, so I had never made it a priority. Today, even with limited time on the tour, I planned to squeeze in as much as I could so that maybe on a future visit, I would be more prepared.

That first views of the colorful buildings of Burano was unlike anything I had ever imagined. Set against the bright blue sky, they were absolutely breathtaking! Deciding to stick together this time, the four of us headed along the banks of the canals and through the small alleyways that make up the island…well, until we lost one at a bar! Deciding to pick him up on our way back to the boat, we set out to explore more of the colorful fisherman’s village.

Striped curtains covered doorways, allowing both ventilation, privacy and a quaint charm. Many of the buildings offered Moorish influences and small bridges spanned the canals. We learned that that any person wishing to paint their building in Burano have to follow a specific system and submit a request to the government which, in turn, issues a permit for certain colors to allow for variety and yet, consistency.

While Murano is known for its glass making, Burano is known for its lace. There were many shops featuring the beautiful lace that the island is famous for. Lacemaking was started in the 16th century and continues today, although only a few lace makers create it in the traditional way. Beautiful examples of traditional lace and demonstrations can be found at the Lace Museum in the palace of Podesta of Torcello, though we only opted to admire the artistry from the shops lining the canal.

We spotted Burano’s leaning tower, located near the San Martino Church. Dating back to the 16th century, Il Campanile Storto tilts severely and can be viewed from many points throughout the island, including the nearby Piazza di Galuppi. While I had hoped to visit The Chapel of Santa Barbara and a few other notable landmarks, we had to make do with walking down the nearby main street and grabbing some refreshing gelato before seeking out our mislaid companion.

While he wasn’t where we initially left him, with a little luck, we found him otherwise engaged in conversation on a bench with a local, before we dragged him back to the boat!

Finally, our tour of the three islands completed, we headed back to Venice. with the sun falling lower in the evening sky. A magical day, I was happy with all that I had seen and that it was a day that I did not have to plan. Although my colleagues may have been a bit challenged with getting to the boat on time, we had made it back to Venice in time for dinner.

All four of us…the skipper, the first mate, Mr. Howell and me, the movie star…okay…okay…Mary Ann.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Getting to Murano, Burano or Torcello

http://www.venice-guide.info/Water_Bus_Lines_Venice.php
There are many tours available which visit the three sister islands. Check with your hotel or a quick internet search will point you in the right direction.
Take a water bus or vaporetto. Line 3: Express line between bus station and main station to Murano (Non Stop), journey time about 20 minutes. Line 7: Direct lines between San Marco and Murano. Line 7 runs from the south of Venice to the island of Murano in the north of Venice. Line 12: From Venice to the islands of Murano, Burano, Torcello and Mazzorbo from Fondamente Nove. Line 13: From Venice to the islands of Murano, Vignole and Sant Erasmo. Line 14: From San Marco to Lido, Punta Sabbioni and Burano.
Fares: 24 hour unlimited fare, 24€, 12 hour unlimited fare, 18€. One way fare, 7.50€.

Category: Burano

An Island of Color

Here In the Venetian Isles