Spain – Snapping The Globe

A Christmas Trio

Every year, I look forward to my layovers in December.

I bid layover in cities that are known for their outstanding Christmas markets. Covid put a damper on this tradition for a couple of years, but this year, markets were back in full swing and I had a trio to visit.

Brussels was the first on my schedule and I remembered fondly purchasing beautiful lace ornaments many years ago at the market in the city center. Setting out in the early afternoon to get a leg up on the crowds, we headed towards the Grande Place, but first wandered into the Les Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert, the glass roofed arcade filled with cafes, theaters and luxury stores. Having the distinction of being the first covered shopping arcade in Europe, it attracts hundreds of visitors daily wishing to experience its beautiful architecture and unique shopping opportunities. Rather than wait for the market to purchase some of the lace ornaments I was seeking, I found some here with Christmas motifs, in the event that I did not encounter them later. The gallery was bedecked with garland, lights, Christmas trees and Santa figures, making us excited for what was to come.

Making our way into the Grande Place, we found Christmas trees both in the square and on the balcony of City Hall, but our main focus was on the life-sized nativity in the center of the square. We joined the queue of fellow visitors, lining the fenced in area to gaze upon the holy scene which depicted the birth of Jesus Christ.

Exiting the Grande Place, we followed the path of small huts erected for the occasion which offered sweets food items, drinks and a variety of gift items. My favorite hut, however, sold smoutbollen, fried donut balls coated in powder sugar, which reminded me of the beignets I usually purchase when I visit my Louisiana home.

After our snack, we headed to Place Sint-Katelijine (Place St. Catherine), an area I am well familiar with as our layover hotel was once located very near and known for its Church of Saint Catherine, the beautiful Victorian church which I wrote about in the past (https://snappingtheglobe.com/?p=5577).

While I had not been extremely impressed (except for the smoutbollen) with the market offerings or the markets appearance near the Grande Place, it was now growing dark and this is what I came to Brussels to see!

*Place Sint-Katelijine Christmas Market*

Two long lines of lighted Christmas huts stretched out before us, ending at the giant red-lighted Ferris wheel. There was a wide array of offerings for purchase and as we shopped our way to the end of one row, we stopped just short of the Ferris wheel to watch the Christmas carol singing moose and then to enter the warm and welcoming champagne bar! Now, I rather fancy myself a beer-kind-of-girl, but joining my friend for some champagne and conversation while we warmed ourselves near the wood-burning stove seemed so festive and I just wanted to stay here all night! However, all good things must come to an end, so we shopped our way back the way we had come and set out to find a nice welcoming Belgian restaurant for dinner while admiring the beautiful Christmas lights above the Brussels’ streets.

*Place Sint-Katelijine Christmas Market* *and Champagne Bar*

My next trip was a few days later to Madrid, Spain. I had read up on the city’s markets and was excited to learn that our hotel overlooked a very nice one just across the street in the Plaza de Espana. While I was excited to experience this particular market, the one that I had my eye on was located in the Plaza Mayor, which I had learned offered nativity sets and individual nativity items. As a collector of unique nativity sets, I was excited to find a special item from Spain.

The market in Plaza de Espana was fairly busy in the afternoon and I was tempted to take a seat in the Paulaner Biergarten for an afternoon beer. Instead, I perused the different stalls and checked out the Christmas tree before making my way on foot towards the Plaza Mayor.

Much to my surprise, I encountered a small market in the Plaza Santo Domingo, but so early in the month, only a handful of the small wooden huts were open. Continuing my walk, I happened upon the Plaza de Isabel II, with its giant metal Christmas tree decorated with red ornaments and a troop of Spanish dancers giving the onlookers a cultural treat.

*Christmas decorations and (a creepy) Santa in Madrid*

*Plaza de Isabel II Christmas Tree (day and night)*

Finally, after what seemed like miles of walking, I found the entrance to the Plaza Mayor. Still late in the afternoon, the lights were not yet illuminated, but I decided to make my way through the maze of red huts that filled the square. On the outskirts, there were many vendors selling wreaths, greenery and other Christmas décor, but each of the stalls in the interior, seemed to offer one of two things…nativity sets or Chinese junk. Indeed, I was in the market for a nativity set, but as I made my way from hut to hut, I realized that it was pretty much all the same type of figurines, in different sizes. I assumed that people purchased an initial set of a particular size and each year, purchased different pieces to add to their collection, beyond the basic setup of Jesus, Mary, Joseph, Kings, shepherds, angels and animals. With what was offered, you could create whole village scenes with running water and electric lights. While if you have the room for this and its your preference, this would be the place to find your yearly addition, however, I was not impressed with the artistry, suspecting that many of these piece were imported and not Spanish made. I didn’t give up, however, traipsing throughout the square, hoping to find an inspirational piece created in Spain, yet all I found from the vendors not selling small cheap toys, hats and odds and ends were the same resin figurines, while dodging children throwing firework poppers in my path and having to skirt parents with large strollers and visitors pushing their way through the crowd.

*Nativity Figurines in Plaza Mayor Christmas Market*

At six o’clock, the square was illuminated and I was happy to be able to see it lit up, bequeathing us all with a festive glow. Taking a quick selfie under the green Christmas tree, I headed out of the square towards Puerta del Sol. Here and there, along the way, I encountered some unique lights over the city streets and in the plaza, the golden lit Christmas tree as well as the lighted Royal Postal Service Building and its iconic clock tower.

There were so many people making their way into the plaza…police were monitoring the streets which were allowing only one-way foot traffic on some streets. Not wishing to remain in a situation, where there could be a potential problem with crowd control, I decided to make my way back home, passing by Plaza de Isabel II once again, but now with its large tree lighted in blue and red. Finally, at Plaza de Espana it was nighttime and it was lit up quite beautifully, with full \-sized lighted nativity figures and more people than I could have imagined filling the square and waiting for their opportunity to take a few turns on the ice skating rink. Seizing a few moments to appreciate the twinkling lights on the real fir Christmas tree, I decided that I had had enough of the crowds that day and it was time to retire to my hotel to rest and have a nice beer in the warmth of the lobby of my hotel, looking out on the throngs of shoppers and holidaymakers! In a few days, I would get the opportunity for the German Christmas market experience…this was the one I was most looking forward to!

*Plaza de Espana Christmas Market at night*

A few days later I was on my way to Frankfurt, Germany. I initially had grand plans of taking the train to Weisbaden and Frankfurt’s Christmas markets, but thankfully, I came to the realization that being a Saturday, all of these markets were going to be extremely crowded and it was best to be conservative with my shopping ambitions. Although I didn’t get much sleep on the airplane and only a couple of hours in my hotel when we arrived, I powered through to arrive in the nearby Mainz market during the early afternoon, first passing through the Schillerplatz which offered a small market fare with a few decorations. Though I longed to see the Mainz market lit during the nighttime hours, less crowds seemed to be a fair tradeoff by going early.

Well, I can tell you, if we had waited until the nighttime hours, there would have been no way to see what we wanted to see, purchase what we wanted to purchase or eat and drink what we wanted to eat and drink. Each booth had lines of people waiting for service and although we were able to buy our potato pancakes, candy coated almonds and gluehwein, it took a lot of perseverance and patience. I was lucky enough to snag my German beer steins quickly, but my little wooden German smoking men, took about a half hour and drinking my entire cup of gluehwein to make the purchase…same for my nativity set at the Kathe Wolhart store.

Still, it was magical, seeing the full-sized nativity, carousels, the six-tiered pyramid and other beautiful decorations. But after fighting crowds for three hours, we headed back to the hotel to meet our crew for happy hour.

A while into our cocktail enjoyment, someone looked out of the window and noticed numerous lighted vehicles passing in front of the hotel. Quickly, we all headed outside and were treated with a parade of lighted farm vehicles. We had no idea where they were coming from or where they were going, but seeing the effort that they put into lighting each one and their attempts to make each unique put us in the Christmas spirit and dissipated my disappointment in not seeing the Mainz Christmas Market lighted at night.

So there it was…a trio of Christmas markets this year, to get me into the spirit!

Next year, which cities will it be?

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Brussels Christmas Markets

https://christmasmarkets.io/belgium/brussels-christmas-market/
https://www.facebook.com/plaisirsdhiver.winterpret.winterwonders/
Address: Grand Place
Address: Place Sainte-Catherine 41, 1000 Brussels, Belgium

Madrid Christmas Markets

https://christmasmarketsineurope.com/madrid-christmas-markets/
Address: Plaza de Espana
Address: Plaza Mayor

Mainz Christmas Market

https://christmasmarketsineurope.com/mainz-christmas-market/

No…The Other One

One of the most famous churches can be found in Barcelona.

The Sagrada Familia.

So when I was asked what I was going to do on my layover in Barcelona and I said, “Go to the cathedral,” everyone naturally assumed I was headed to the monumental landmark.

“Oh, the Sagrada Familia,” they said.

“No, the cathedral,” I replied watching the perplexed look cross their faces.

“Yes, the Sagrada Familia, the famous church,” they countered.

“No, the other one. The cathedral.” (And actually, the Sagrada Familia is a basilica and the Barcelona Cathedral, is well…a cathedral, but I can’t fault everyone for not knowing the difference).

Having always been fascinated by the architecture in the Gothic Quarter, it was a wonder that I had never visited the cathedral, one of the most visible and outstanding examples of the architectural style. Visiting Barcelona a short time after Covid protocols were put in place, I had learned that reservations were required for entry and of course, I didn’t have one on that trip. This time, I was prepared. I had purchased my timed entry before leaving New York, allowing for a short nap before heading to the Gothic Quarter.

The Barcelona Cathedral was constructed from the thirteenth to fifteen centuries (with the bulk of the work done within the fourteenth) on the foundations of a primitive basilica that was later named a cathedral. Because of the span of time taken for the completion, the distinct periods are characterized throughout its layout. The façade, which you see today, was initiated with the church’s construction, however, was not built until 1897 until 1890 and was completed in 1913.

Also known as The Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia, it was named for the patron saint of Barcelona, whose remains are entombed in the cathedral’s crypt, however, this is not the only thing to see in the spectacular place of worship.

Making my entrance, I had planned a visit of approximately one and a half hours plus some additional time for the Diocesan Museum. What I did not realize was how poorly I had planned. Moving throughout the cathedral, passing my eyes over its vast interior, it dawned on me that it would take me twice that time…maybe more.

First moving through the cathedral floor, I was entranced by the ornate side chapels and the vaulted ceiling, but I quickly reached the elevators leading to the roof within the Chapel of the Innocent Saints. Spotting a short line, I decided to take advantage of the limited wait and head to the cathedral’s highest point. After a short ride, I exited the elevator and made my way up stairways and across catwalks, spying the intricacies of the cathedral’s roof, bell towers, lateral pinnacles, the cimborio crowned by the Holy Cross as well as phenomenal views of the city. Under the azure sky of the winter afternoon, I couldn’t imagine a better place to be to take in the day!

Heading down back into the cathedral, I continued my explorations, finding myself passing through the external doors of the Pieta and of Saint Eulalia, I discovered the cloister…a place of pure peace, similar, in some ways, to other cloisters I have visited…yet it offered up a surprise. The rectangular space was made up of four galleries, separated by sculpted pillars, showing scenes from the Old Testament and from a legend about the Holy Cross. Other scenes from the New Testament were spotted on the keystones. There were distinct chapels in each gallery, but it was the center of the cloister that commanded my attention. Filled with a garden of palm trees, magnolias and orange trees, there was a vast pond centered with a fountain, dating back to the mid-15th century. Still, while the pond and the beautiful greenery took my breath away, it was the residents of this cloister that made me laugh with delight. No, not nuns…geese! The large pond is the home for thirteen white geese, who despite their natural inclination to honk (and holler), stay fairly silent, almost as if they have taken a vow of silence!

Making my way back into the main part of the church, I continued my explorations of the side chapels, finally discovering one that the cathedral is well known for, The Chapel of the Holy Sacrament and of the Holy Christ of Lepanto. Constructed in 1407, it was the Chapterhouse of the Cathedral until 1676, when Saint Olegarius was canonized and the room became his mausoleum. The former Chapter Hall is not a large one and dimly lit, but highlighted on the main altar, is the burial chamber of Saint Olegarius, the bishop of Barcelona and above that, the 16th century Holy Christ of Lepanto. Quite beautiful!

*Chapel of the Holy Sacrament and of the Holy Christ of Lepanto*

The current Chapter Hall, located near the Cloister and now a museum space, displays 15th century paintings, an 11th century baptism font and the 14th century monstrance (the receptacle in which the host is held and displayed), made up from the campaign throne of King Martin the Humane. Definitely worth a look!

Eventually, I made my way back to the cathedral’s main floor and the high altar. The high altar, the main focus in the church, almost seems lost in the vastness of the space. With its towering vaulted ceilings, and the fact that it sits above the Chapel of Saint Eulalia with the staircase leading to it in front of the altar, makes me wonder if those attending mass can even see the priest performing his ritualistic duties. Nonetheless, I think it would be an amazing experience to attend mass here.

Making my way down the stairs to the Chapel of Saint Eulalia, I peered through the wrought iron gate at the burial chamber of the saint. Designed by masters from Pisa and Siena between 1327 and 1339, the reliefs narrate the story of the saint and the sepulcher is crowned by five images, four angels with candlesticks and the image of the Virgin. Beyond the Gothic chamber is the original sepulcher of Saint Eulalia, found by the bishop of Frodoino in 878 in the cemetery of Santa Maria del Mar, and a piece of broken marble with the original inscription commemorating her. Though the crypt is not consistently illuminated, there is a coin slot that accepts payment (.50€) and will highlight the space for a few moments.

Finally, I turned toward the rear of the cathedral. In the center of the cathedral floor, between the high altar and the entrance was the Choir With the Golden Fleece Choir Stalls. Construction on this most significant work in the cathedral was begun in 1390 and designed in the Catalan Gothic Style with the canopies and pinnacles being added at the end of the 15th century. What I loved the most, however, was the colorful commemorative shields painted by Juan de Borgoña that relate to the order of the Golden Fleece who were summoned to meet in Barcelona in 1519 by their master, Emperor Charles V…thus their name. Another remarkable aspect of this space is the wooden pulpit carved by sculptor Pedro Çanglada in 1403.

Taking one last look around and at also at my watch, I realized that if I was going to visit the adjacent Diocesan museum, I had better make hast. Exiting the cathedral, I stood on the front steps and gazed up at the exterior. It really is a phenomenal piece of Gothic architecture!

It was an extremely short walk to the museum building next door, however, I had one more exterior feature that I wanted to see…the Door of Saint Ivo. Located under the bell towers, this portal was the main entrance for over five hundred years and is named for Saint Ivo, the patron saint of lawyers.

Finally, making my entrance into the museum, I began my explorations of of the artistic works that have been donated to the church. Housed in the building known as the Casa de la Pia Almoina (House of the Blessed Charity) or La Canonja (the Canonry) as it once housed the canons of St. Augustin, this structure is a part of a group of medieval buildings that are integrated into the city’s 4th century (A.D.) Roman wall.

*Exterior of the Diocesan Museum and adjacent sculpture*

The collection spans three floors and contains about 3,000 items including paintings, sculptures, ceramics and religious clothing which date from the late Roman era to the twentieth century.

After working my way through each of the floors of the museum, I noticed some of the workers tidying up and realized that it was the end of the day…time for me to go.

So, the next day, another co-worker whom I hadn’t really spoken to much on the way to Barcelona asked me how I spent my layover.

“I went to the Barcelona Cathedral. It was amazing!”

“Oh, you’re a fan of Gaudi! Did you love the Sagrada Familia?”

Sigh…

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

The Barcelona Cathedral

https://catedralbcn.org/en/
Address:Pla de la Seu, s/n, 08002 Barcelona, Spain
Hours: Monday to Friday, 0930-1830, Saturday, 0930-1730, Sunday, 1400-1700
Mass schedule: Weekdays (in the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament), 0900 (Catalan), 1100 (Catalan), 1200 (Spanish), 1915 (Catalan). Sundays and Holidays (on the High Altar), 0900 (Catalan), 1000 (Catalan), 1200 (Spanish), 1300 (Catalan), 1800 (Spanish), 1915 (Catalan). Saturdays and Holiday Eves (in the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament), 0900 (Catalan), 1100 (Catalan), 1200 (Spanish), (High Altar), 1800 (Spanish), 1915 (Catalan).
Admission: Cathedral, 9€ per person Cathedral and Diocesan Museum, 15€ per person
Getting There: Metro, Jaume I station or Urquinaona station

The Almudena Cathedral

While there are many churches in Madrid, one that is relatively new is the one that takes center stage…for many reasons.

The Almudena Cathedral.

I’ve walked by this stunning piece of architecture countless times on my visits to Madrid. Why I never stepped inside, I am not sure. Perhaps it wasn’t during opening hours, or I simply had other more pressing matters to attend. On this particular day, however, it was open and I had nothing on the agenda.

But it was not the cathedral that I happened upon first. It was the crypt.

Noticing the open doors, located in front of the Arab Wall, I wandered in.

The first thing I noticed were the columns. 400 of them!

Four hundred columns fill the space, each crowned with biblical figures, nature scenes and the symbol of Madrid, the bear and the strawberry tree (which I had also spotted earlier near my hotel).

Mirroring the same architectural footprint as the cathedral above, it is the largest crypt in Spain and the resting place of some of the country’s most notable families and to King Alfonso XII’s first wife Maria de las Mercedes de Orleans. As I wandered through the space, admiring each of the incredibly bedecked side chapels with their Byzantine mosaics and Gothic stained-glass windows. Many of the tombs were extremely elaborate, demonstrating the power and wealth of the families of those interred. The most fascinating facet, however, was the Chapel dedicated to Nuestra Senora de la Flor de Lis (Our Lady of the Lily), possibly the oldest image of the Virgin in the city.

*Nuestra Senora de la Flor de Lis (Our Lady of the Lily)*

*Capilla de los Exemos Srs Marqueses de Urquijo*

*Capilla Virgen de Rosario and Capilla de la Exema Srs Marquesa de San Juan*

Overall, it had the grand feeling of a cathedral yet more peaceful as would be expected.

Now I was ready for the cathedral itself.

Making my way out of the crypt, I walked around the corner praying that I would find the cathedral open.

The sun was getting lower in the afternoon sky as I glanced up at the cathedral’s façade. Making my way up the stairs, it was hopeful to see other people exiting the entrance.

The church, which was completed and consecrated by in 1993 by Pope John Paul II, is the first cathedral to be consecrated outside of Rome, but plans for the church date back to 1879 when Francisco de Cubas wanted to create a pantheon for the late Queen Maria de la Mercedes. Construction was started four years later, but those plans were changed as the idea for a cathedral was conceived.

Inspired by French cathedral architecture, it was the first to include a crypt and it was to be a cathedral built by the people. When donations came up short, this and other construction problems delayed the project further. The crypt was opened in 1911 but further construction was delayed with the outbreak of the Civil War. As Gothic style went out of vogue, new architectural solutions were sought out. Work was restarted in 1950 with the cloister being completed in 1955 and the main façade in 1960. With many years of construction to follow, the cathedral was finally considered finished in 1993.

As I entered and made my way around the cathedral, what struck me most was not the beautiful stained glass windows (which were amazing), not the numerous columns that filled the space (like in the crypt), not the massive organ in the choir loft, but the colorful ceiling above. It was something like I’ve never seen and very much unexpected as it not matched the classical style!

After my departure, I learned that the cathedral houses a museum which contains effigies of the city’s patron saints, the Virgin Mary of la Almudena and San Isidro of Labrador and an exhibition of the life of the Church through the seven sacraments. The museum contains twelve halls which contain mosaics, Episcopal symbols and vestments. I also learned that I had missed access to the cathedral’s dome. My understanding of this area of the cathedral is that it is not particularly noteworthy however, I am not one to pass up an opportunity! After further research, I discovered I was visiting on a Saturday afternoon when closing time for these two features was well before my arrival. So my advice to those seeking to visit both the crypt and the cathedral and the entirety of it interior…get there early!

Guess I will have to go back!

And be early!!!

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Almudena Cathedral

http://www.catedraldelaalmudena.es
Address: Calle de Bailén, 10 28013, Madrid, Spain
Hours: Monday to Sunday, 0900-2030. Museum and crypt, Monday to Saturday, 1000-1430.
Admission: Cathedral, free. Museum and crypt, Adults, €6 (US$ 6.30), Students, groups, and seniors, €4 (US$ 4.20).
Getting There: Metro, Opera, lines 2 and 5. Bus numbers 3, 25, 39, 148.

Marquis Landmarks

Walking along the Manzanares River in Madrid, especially on a beautiful day, is a real treat as many landmarks and parks sit on or near its banks.

As I left the Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida, I decided to make my way to the Chapel of the Virgin of the Harbour which lies a short distance away, in the shadow of the Royal Palace of Madrid.

Walking along the Paseo de la Florida, I neared the metro station of Principe Pio and spotted a large structure in the middle of the traffic circle.

The San Vincente Gate.

Curiosity had me whipping out my phone to see what information I could find on this interesting piece of architecture. What I found, however, was more interesting than I anticipated.

While Madrid is filled with many historic architectural features, this was not one of them!

In 1726, a structure, commissioned by the Marques de Vadillo, stood in this area. Consisting of three giant arcs topped with a figure of San Vicente, the gate was also known as Puerta de Florida. Standing for about fifty years, it was then demolished to make way for much needed roadways. In 1775, King Carlos III, contracted Francesco Sabatini to design a new gate, closer to the river. Built of granite and limestone, it featured two shutters and an arc, Doric columns and military symbols. Unlike the first one, it stood for over two hundred years…but much like the first, it too was disassembled in the 1980s for traffic renovations.

In 1992, a proposal was passed by the City Council of Madrid approving an exact replica of the original 1775 gate. Original molds were used to construct the single arch and two blind apertures, decorated with two Doric columns and two pilasters in its interior.

Risking life and limb to make my way through the traffic zooming around the traffic circle, I crossed the roadway to get a closer look. What I thought was part of the gate, I quickly realized was remaining Christmas lighting, set within the openings of the the arches. The sun was low in the sky, highlighting the structure and I noted that if I stuck around for a couple of hours, I might get to see these holiday lights enhancing the structure.

If I wanted to get to the Chapel of the Virgin of the Harbour, however, I needed to make haste, so off I went, walking along the Paseo de la Virgin del Puerto. Many people were out due to the unseasonable warmth and I grew excited as I spotted the spires of the chapel in the distance.

Noting its unique appearance, I thought that it reminded me of a German palace. I approached from the rear, appreciated the sun’s rays highlighting the beautiful towers and roofline.

This chapel was built between 1716 and 1718 by Pedro de Ribera and is one of the first examples of baroque architecture in Spain. It was damaged by missiles in 1936, during the Spanish Civil War, which left only the walls and the octagonal dome. In 1945, it was proclaimed a national monument and reconstruction was begun by architect Carlos Mendoza. The church was reopened in 1951.

On this day, however, it was not open. I had read that it was often closed to the public and the best time to obtain access was immediately after masses of which I had hoped there would be one during the afternoon. I had hoped that it might arrive just at that time, however, it was locked up tight and I realized that the only afternoon masses were on Saturdays. Sad, considering that in the interior, you can see the tomb of Marquis Vadillo…yes, that same Marquis responsible for the San Vicente Gate, which I had just visited. What a coincidence!

While my visit to the chapel was a bit of a bust, I did get to get up close and personal to the Gate of San Vicente and learn that the chapel houses the remains of the person responsible for this gate. So, although I didn’t quite get to do what I had set out to, I learned a little bit about something unique in Madrid.

And that’s what visiting a city is all about…discovery!

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Gate of San Vicente

https://www.esmadrid.com/en/tourist-information/puerta-de-san-vicente
Address: Glorietade San Vicente, s/n28008
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, Príncipe Pío station (L6, L10, R). Bus, 3, 25, 33, 39, 41, 46, 62, 75, 138, 148, C1, C2, N16, N18, N19, N20, SE730.

Chapel of the Virgin of the Harbour

https://www.ermitavirgendelpuerto.es/
Address: Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto 428013 Madrid, Spain
Hours: Unknown
Admission: free

Plan Goya

Plans A, B, C, D, E and F.

When your time is limited in a city, it is imperative to have multiple plans because you never know…websites have incorrect hours, the lines are too long to get into your intended destinations or you happen to sleep too long.

On this particular day, I had plans to visit the Pantheon of Illustrious Men. It was some distance from my hotel and it closed at 3:00 p.m, so I knew that when I laid down for a quick nap, it had to be just that…quick.

So, what do you think happened?

Yes, I slept a little too long.

On this day, however, I had broken my cardinal rule. There was no Plan B, C, D, E or even F.

As I rushed to get ready, I ran through list of attractions, churches and museums in the area. Temple of Debod came to mind and I thought I would head that way to see what I would find.

It was a beautiful day and I headed on foot in the direction of the Temple of Debod. I didn’t remember that it was a place where you could enter the building; I had only remembered that it was in a park. Yet, when I arrived, there was a line formed waiting for entry.

“Okay, is this worth it?” I asked myself, looking at the empty water basins that make up the monument. I remembered walking by in the past, and it was quite lovely, but waiting an extraordinary amount of time due to Covid spacing requirements for entry, didn’t seem like a productive way to spend my shortened afternoon. Quickly taking a look at my Google maps, I realized that I wasn’t extremely far from the Real Ermita de San Antonio de La Florida (The Royal Chapel of St. Anthony of La Florida).

A few years ago, I had dragged a couple of my coworkers to this small church before taking a ride on the Teleferico en Rosales. I didn’t remember much about it except that it was extremely famous for its interior painting.

Walking through the Parque de la Montaña and near the Rosaleda del Parque del Oeste, I enjoyed the warmth of the winter afternoon. Finally, crossing the brightly bedecked pedestrian walkway above the train tracks, I found myself at the rear of the church.

Though it wasn’t extremely far, it had taken about 45 minutes and it suddenly dawned on me that it could be closed. I also suddenly remembered that there had been no photography allowed when I had first visited…oh brother…this afternoon was surely going to be a bust!

Oh well, I was here.

Walking toward the front of the church, I found a sign directing me to the entrance on the right. There was no one to greet me and I made my way through the hallway and right into the church, where I found two other visitors, eyes trained on the ceiling. Following their lead, I looked upward and remembered what this church was famous for.

Goya.

Okay, so I had moved on to Plan G. Plan Goya.

In the late 17th century, a chapel, devoted to St. Anthony of Padua, had a great many devotees, especially those of women without future matrimonial prospects. To this day, it still hosts of a pilgrimage, held on June 13, that is attended by young adult women who hope to be married.

The chapel was eventually demolished and relocated to the estate of La Florida. King Charles V ordered the construction of the new chapel between 1792 to 1798 and commissioned painter Francisco de Goya to adorn its vaults with a series of frescoes. Goya, aware of the importance of this chapel to its devotees took great care with his creation and these frescoes ultimately became some of the greatest of his masterpieces.

Due to its importance to the city of Madrid and to Spain, in 1905, the chapel was declared a National Monument and Francisco de Goya’s remains were moved here in 1919 from Bordeaux (where he had died in 1828). In order to preserve the original as a museum, an identical chapel was built beside it, in 1928, for worshipers.

As my eyes moved around the room, I was entranced by the muted movement within each series. These frescoes, depicting the miracles of St. Anthony of Padua, were painted over six months time during which Goya developed many new techniques that he went on to incorporate into his art going forward. The most captivating series, however, are within the dome and depict Saint Anthony raising a man from the dead and absolving his father who had been falsely accused of his murder.

Take a moment to sit on one of the benches, prepare for a neck ache and take it all in.

As I did this for a while, my neck spasms then began. Moving around, I then took in the two altarpieces painter by Jacinto Gómez Pastor, on each side of the rectangular Greek cross-plan chapel, as well as a gold cherub chandelier dropping from the dome. At the front of the chapel, I admired the crucifix, within the apse, decorated with angels and fronted by Goya’s tomb.

The chapel is and contains one of Madrid’s most spectacular treasures and it is a place that all visitors should seek out. Best part for me? Photographs are now allowed!

As I always like to suggest to people, “head on over,” to places that I recommend, I think that in this case it takes on an interesting connotation here.

When Goya’s remains were to be brought to Madrid, the French officials realized that his head had gone missing. Madrid’s response?

“Bring him home, even headless!”

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Real Ermita de San Antonio de La Florida

Email: http://www.madrid.es/ermita
Address: Glorieta San Antonio de la Florida, 528008
Hours: Daily, 0930-2000, Closed Monday. Summer hours, from June 15-September 15, 0930-1400, Tuesday to Friday. Saturday, Sunday and public holidays, 0930-1900.
Admission: free
Guided tours (conducted in Spanish and English, with prior booking by calling 91 542 07 22, from 9:30 to 20:00.
Getting There: Metro, Príncipe Pío (L6, L10, R). Bus, 41, 46, 75, N20. Local train (Cercanías).

A Royal Residence

Within a mile from Madrid’s Plaza Espana stand many notable architectural masterpieces.

These include the notable Royal Palace of Madrid, home to the Kings of Spain from Charles III to Alfonso XIII, a popular tourist venue in the Spanish capital.

If your interests, however, lie in the palaces where the lesser members of royalty reside(d), you can also find the Palace of the Duke of Infatado and the Liria Palace in the area.

The Liria Palace, located only a few blocks from my hotel, caught my attention as it was described not only as the residence of the Duke of Alba but also as an art museum.

Heading there in the late afternoon for its reopening at four o’clock, I paid my admission and joined three others to receive our audio guides and join our host. Dismayed to see a sign stating that photos were not allowed except of the exterior, I vowed to be as sneaky as I could to capture at least a few things on film.

Although not being allowed to capture the beauty of this royal residence was disappointing enough, I soon discovered that although my audio guide was in my native tongue, the tour guide would only be speaking Spanish! Well, I haven’t been studying the language for the past year and a half for nothing!

Making our way to the front of the neoclassical palace and entering through the front double doors, we began to watch a short film on the palace’s history. Again…in Spanish, but my studies are paying off because I understood a great deal.

After the film’s completion, we followed our guide up the magnificent staircase to the second level and paused to listen to the narration describing each of the artistic pieces that graced the landings and nooks and crannies.

Following our guide, we then made our way from room to room on the ground and first floors, analyzing each’s unique features and artwork, gleaning what we could from the additional narratives that our guide contributed.

An art museum? Yes, but more of an extensive art collection set in an exquisite home. Hundreds of paintings filed the walls, highlighting intricate architectural features, and many personal photographs were displayed on desks and mantles. Of particular interest was the library, home to more than 18,000 prints, including the first edition of Don Quixote and the largest collection of handwritten manuscripts from Christopher Columbus.

The Liria palace was built in 1770 by architect Ventura Rodriguez and commissioned by James Fitz-James Stewart, the third Duke of Berwick and Duke of Liria. Over the years, the palace survived fire, losing part of its archives and the Spanish Civil War, where part of its façade was demolished. It was passed on to the House of Alba in the early 19th century and was the location where the last empress consort of the French, Eugenie de Montijo, spent her remaining days.

Today, the palace is the residence of Carlos Fitz-James Stewart, son of the 18th Duchess of Alba, and is open to the public to display its remarkable private collection of European art, including painting by Goya and Rembrandt, engravings by Durer and Van Dyck, marble and bronze sculptures from the Roman Empire to the neoclassical period as well as ceramics, armor, weapons, tapestries and empire style furniture.

While the palace is an interesting stop on Madrid’s list of countless attractions, I think it is one for those solely interested in art and the palace’s historical value. For me, the entrance fee was a bit steep, however, it was an attraction that I could squeeze in during the afternoon on my short visit. For those interested in hitting the city’s highlights, the Royal Palace is a short distance away and the city’s prestigious Museo Nacional del Prado may be the starting point for visitors whose interests lie in art. All in all, the tour was extremely informative and gave me a different insight to the residences of Spain’s royal families and for that, it was much appreciated.

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Liria Palace

https://www.palaciodeliria.com/
Address: Calle de la Princesa, 20 28008
Hours: Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday, mornings, 1015, 1045, 1115, 1145, 1215, 1245. Afternoons, closed. Thursday and Friday, mornings, 1015, 1045, 1115, 1145, 1215, 1245. Afternoons, 1615, 1645, 1715, 1745, 1815, 1845. Saturday and Sunday, mornings, 945 1015, 1045, 1115, 1145, 1215, 1245. Afternoons, 1545, 1615, 1645, 1715, 1745, 1815. Closed on January 1, 5 and 6 and December 24, 25 and 31.
Admission: €15.00
Getting There: Metro, Plaza de España (L2, L3, L10), Ventura Rodríguez (L3). Bus, 001, 002, 1, 2, 44, 62, 74, 133, 138, C1, C2

The Walk of Shame

The Hollywood Walk of Fame in Los Angeles is one of the state’s top attractions.

The Walk of Fame in Madrid…a forgotten attempt at imitation.

While checking out places of interest near the Plaza de Espana in Madrid, something caught my eye! A few blocks from my hotel was the city’s own version of the iconic Hollywood attraction!

Opened in 2011, the Spanish Film Academy, wishing to pay tribute to Spanish actors, actresses and filmmakers, laid the groundwork for the installation of twenty-five stars (one for each year of the Academy’s lifetime). The site was chosen for its proximity to the “Golem” and “Renoir” cinemas and also the bookstore, “8 1/2” that specializes in cinematography, however, the site selection wasn’t without controversy. Many thought it would be better to place the “stars” on the Gran Via, a busy avenue more frequented by tourists. While the plan was to install a star per year after the initial induction, only one other was embedded in the sidewalk.

Excited to see Madrid’s cinematic tribute interpretation, I headed out to walk the few blocks to its location. Thinking that it would be easy to spot, I discovered that it was tucked away on a side street and I actually walked past it…twice.

Finally, I turned onto Calle de Martin de los Heros.

Oh, what a disappointment!

Instead of a Walk of Fame, I discovered a Walk of Shame!

Stars dedicated to Luis Buñuel (filmmaker), Pedro Almodovar (filmmaker, producer, screenwriter, former actor), Fernando Rey (actor), Penelope Cruz (actress), Javier Bardem (actor) and Antonio Banderas (actor) among others, lined one side of the street. The sidewalk was dirty, cracked and unkempt. Cigarettes were stuck into the edges of the squares and even one star, that of Luis Garcia Berlanga (director), was crossed with barrier tape. Even poor Javier Bardem’s star was missing one of its appendages!

Although I am positive that certain actors and actress are proud that their country of origin has honored them, I am sure that they are more proud of their five-pointed, terrazzo and gold stars on Hollywood Boulevard.

My advice?

No pierdas tu tiempo (don’t waste your time)!

Go visit the stars of Penelope Cruz, Javier Bardem and Antonio Banderas in California!

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Paseo de la Fama de Madrid

Address: C. de Martin de los Heros, 13, 28008, Madrid, Spain
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, Plaza de Espana, lines 3 and 10. Bus, 001, 1, 133 and 74. Train, C1, C10, C3A, C7.

Segovia’s San Martin

There are about fifty-four churches in Segovia.

Of course, I wanted to see them all.

But sometimes you don’t always get what you want.

Many churches were closed at the early hour when I made my way through the city. Many were only open at certain times. Of course, I was able to visit the cathedral, but I wanted there to be more.

After more misses than hits, I was finally able to find a church with some historical significance that was open for visitation.

The Church of San Martin.

In the prime location of the Plaza de Medina del Campo, there is an important Romanesque church, built in the 12th century and known for its unique design and structure. Its tower, which was designed in the Romanesque-Mudejar style is topped by a Baroque spire and the body of the church offers alluring porticos on three of its sides and a large fortified tower, the Torreon, built in the 14th century.

As I entered the church and paid my admission, I learned that a ticket can be purchased which covers most of the churches within the city. Since it was the end of my day, I opted to pay the single admission and begin my exploration.

The church has been restored on multiple occasions with reconstructions of some parts and the elimination of others. It is a rather small structure and takes only a short time to make your way throughout its ancient interior which consists of three naves and three apses.

The high altar commanded my attention with its beautiful gilded altarpiece. There are some interesting statues and altarpieces in the side chapels as well a prostrate statue of Jesus. The church is dimly lit which lends to its intimate appearance. It was interesting to note that the church boasts a dome, however, it is not visible from the inside as it is covered in plaster.

Moving on to the exterior, I was able to reexamine the doorways from which I had entered the church. These doors are quite beautiful made of arched archivolts. Continuing along the arcaded galleries, I was able to study the religious scenes which decorate the Romanesque capitals. Some have been restored and also focus on God’s creatures…lions, birds, griffins among others. There are also some scenes of the Nativity, the Annunciation, the Flight Into Egypt, the Massacre of the Innocents, the Presentation of Jesus at the Temple, the Resurrenction of Lazarus, the entry into Jerusalem, the Last Supper, the Betrayer of Judas and the Ascension.

Once my tour of the galleries was complete, I made my way around the entire exterior of the church’s walls. I discovered the image of the Saint Bishop San Martin de Tours (12th century) and gazed skyward at the bell tower. Though this particular one does not soar as high as the cathedral’s, it and the galleries, do lend to the unique beauty of the square.

Although my visit was short, it was extremely fulfilling to visit the ancient temple.

There are many other churches throughout the city. Try catching them during opening hours. Though I can’t vouch for the beauty of their interiors, some of their exteriors are extremely pleasing to the eye and have a rich history.

Segovia’s religious history is one to investigate.

Other churches within the city’s limits.

*Small Church on Calle la Juderia Vieja*

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Iglesia de San Martin

https://www.spain.info/en/que-quieres/arte/monumentos/segovia/iglesia_de_san_martin.html
Address: Plaza Medina del Campo, s/n, 40001 Segovia
Hours: 0900-1700 (not verified)
Admission: 3€

The Symbol of the City

When you scan the skyline of Segovia, there are many steeples and belltowers.

One stands out above the rest.

The Gothic bell tower of the Cathedral of Segovia, the symbol of the city.

After my inspection of the cathedral, I had decided to skip the bell tower tour since I had a lot more to see within the city and didn’t want to have to return to the cathedral at a later time. Walking out of the cathedral and past the Plaza Mayor, I suddenly had a change of heart and ventured back.

Paying my admission, I hastily made my way to the Chapel of San Blas where the tour was to begin.

It was a few minutes after the hour and I ducked into the chapel, trying to join the group without disturbing the guide’s opening comments. After her introduction was complete, we were ushered to the corner of the chapel where the entrance to the bell tower staircase was hidden.

The original cathedral bell tower was constructed of American mahogany, but destroyed by fire in 1614. This ancient structure was the tallest in Spain, at a height of just over 354 feet. The tower was rebuilt with stone and began undergoing renovations in 2004, but it wasn’t until a full decade later that the tower was opened to tourists and visitors.

Beginning the tour, the guide led us up the winding, spiral staircase, until we reached our first stop, the Audiovisual Room. Taking a seat, we were immersed in a video with three dimensional recreations which explained the cathedral’s and tower’s history as well as information on the works of art and spaces within the temple. Before making our way to the stairway to begin the climb once again, we were able to take in the series of seventeenth century tapestries which tell the story of the general Pompey the Great, woven in Brussels.

A bit breathless, we reached the the next level of the bell tower, the Ringer’s House. Four rooms consisting of a living room, kitchen and two bedrooms, make up the former residence where the bell ringers and their families lived until 1950. Our guide broke down the daily lives of the bell ringer and what it entailed.

Climbing further still, we found ourselves in the Clock Room, where there are more of the tapestries from the life of Pompey the Great. Named for the clock located inside (similar to the one located in Puerta del Sol in Madrid), which was manufactured in 1882 in Strasbourg, you can understand how the bell ringer performs his job with access to the bells through strings connected to the bell tower from his house. We were also rewarded with a reproduction of the sounds of the bells that originally rang out.

Finally, after one last push up the remaining of the tower’s 308 stairs, we arrived at the bell tower. From this highest viewpoint in the city, we were rewarded with outstanding panoramic views of the Aqueduct, numerous Romansque churches and their own towers, the Alcazar, the city wall, the Jewish cemetery and the monasteries and convents as well as the nearby mountains and plateaus. More importantly, it is here that the bells that ruled the city’s life are located.

Staring at these carillons from the inside of the tower is certainly a unique perspective and some of the ten bells date back to the eighteenth century. Each of the bells can be identified by the placard located near the bell which apprises visitors of the year it was cast, its weight and diameter.

While the bells no longer resonate from this important tower, if you close your eyes and use your imagination, you might hear a slight whisper from the past, breaking the silence of the city’s skies.

Bong…

Visitors to Segovia will have many opportunities to see the city from different perspectives. Brave the climb and make sure that this is one of them!

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The Bell Tower of the Cathedral of Segovia

https://catedralsegovia.es/torre/
Address: Calle del Marques del Arco 1, Segovia, 40003
Tour Hours: Daily, November 1 to March 31, 1030, 1200, 1330 and 1630. April 1 to October 31, 1030, 1200, 1630, 1800 and 1930. Night tours, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, May to October, 2130.
Admission: 3€

The Last Claim in Spain

Some cities love to boast that they have the first cathedral built within it boundaries.

Not Segovia.

The Spanish city’s religious claim to fame is that it has the last Gothic cathedral to be built in Spain.

Started in the 16th century, the Segovia Cathedral was not finished until 1768. Sitting proudly on the Plaza Mayor, it maintains the spot where Isabella I was proclaimed the Queen of Castile.

As I strode into the Plaza Mayor, the cathedral is what commanded my attention. There were some beautiful architectural elements in the square, but it was the grand church’s Gothic exterior that commanded my attention.

After paying my admission, I made my way around the massive church designed by Juan Gil de Hontanon and constructed by his son Rodrigo. Within its enormous interior, the outer fringe of the cathedral is lined with more than twenty chapels illuminated by 16th century Flemish windows. Though each chapel was unique and interesting in its own way, my overall impression of the cathedral was one of which was impressive but rather stark compared to other cathedrals I have visited. Some of the chapels, however, stood out more than others with elaborate decoration and golden altars.

The Blessed Sacrament Chapel, one of the most outstanding in the church, which was created by Churriguera and featured stained glass windows, carved choir stalls and 16th and 17th century paintings. The third chapel on my right from the entrances, the Capilla de San Cosme y San Damian, displays a wooden lamentation group by Baroque sculptor Gregorio Fernandez.

The large, 15th century Gothic choir, in the center of the church, was quite mesmerizing with its elaborately carved stalls and old manuscripts. Directly across from the choir, protected by bars, was the high altar with an 18th century altarpiece by Sabatini. Although you can peer through the barricade to see the specifics of the altar, it is a pity that the overall beauty cannot be fully appreciated from afar.

Through an elaborate doorway, I made my way to the late Gothic cloister, which dates back prior to the cathedral’s beginnings. Strolling through the peaceful halls and admiring the maze of green gracing the center, it was in one of the corners that I found the tombs of Juan and Rodrigo Gil de Hontanon, the men responsible for the beautiful place that I was exploring.

Beyond the cloister, within the first floor of the Chapterhouse, I discovered a small museum of religious art. There were some compelling paintings, jewelry and a collection of rare antique manuscripts. The Chapterhouse itself was a rich display of of paintings and tapestries and offered an array of religious vestments and tapestries on the second floor.

The rear of the cathedral was open and I was able to inspect the gated area to examine both the exterior architectural features and the tombstones set into the terraced area.

As I walked through one of the chapels at the rear of the structure, I spied a sign which advertised guided tours to the cathedral’s belltower. Undecided about the time it was scheduled (I had a lot more ground to cover), I left the church and made it as far as the Plaza Mayor’s center. It was only 35 minutes until the beginning of the tour…how could I not take advantage of the opportunity to see the cathedral in its entirety? Heading back to the cathedral, I paid for the tour and hastily made my way to the starting point, where the guide was already addressing a small group. Listening to the guide’s opening oration, I was eager to see what was in store for our group. Good views and a lot of information I hoped.

To be continued…

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Segovia Cathedral

https://catedralsegovia.es/
Address: Calle del Marques del Arco 1, Segovia, 40003
Hours: November-March, 0900-1830, Monday through Saturday. April-October, 0900-2130, Monday through Saturday. Closed Sundays.
Admission: General, €3.00, Seniors (ages 65+), €2.50, Children (under 10 years), free.