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Some cities love to boast that they have the first cathedral built within it boundaries.
Not Segovia.
The Spanish city’s religious claim to fame is that it has the last Gothic cathedral to be built in Spain.
Started in the 16th century, the Segovia Cathedral was not finished until 1768. Sitting proudly on the Plaza Mayor, it maintains the spot where Isabella I was proclaimed the Queen of Castile.
As I strode into the Plaza Mayor, the cathedral is what commanded my attention. There were some beautiful architectural elements in the square, but it was the grand church’s Gothic exterior that commanded my attention.
After paying my admission, I made my way around the massive church designed by Juan Gil de Hontanon and constructed by his son Rodrigo. Within its enormous interior, the outer fringe of the cathedral is lined with more than twenty chapels illuminated by 16th century Flemish windows. Though each chapel was unique and interesting in its own way, my overall impression of the cathedral was one of which was impressive but rather stark compared to other cathedrals I have visited. Some of the chapels, however, stood out more than others with elaborate decoration and golden altars.
The Blessed Sacrament Chapel, one of the most outstanding in the church, which was created by Churriguera and featured stained glass windows, carved choir stalls and 16th and 17th century paintings. The third chapel on my right from the entrances, the Capilla de San Cosme y San Damian, displays a wooden lamentation group by Baroque sculptor Gregorio Fernandez.
The large, 15th century Gothic choir, in the center of the church, was quite mesmerizing with its elaborately carved stalls and old manuscripts. Directly across from the choir, protected by bars, was the high altar with an 18th century altarpiece by Sabatini. Although you can peer through the barricade to see the specifics of the altar, it is a pity that the overall beauty cannot be fully appreciated from afar.
Through an elaborate doorway, I made my way to the late Gothic cloister, which dates back prior to the cathedral’s beginnings. Strolling through the peaceful halls and admiring the maze of green gracing the center, it was in one of the corners that I found the tombs of Juan and Rodrigo Gil de Hontanon, the men responsible for the beautiful place that I was exploring.
Beyond the cloister, within the first floor of the Chapterhouse, I discovered a small museum of religious art. There were some compelling paintings, jewelry and a collection of rare antique manuscripts. The Chapterhouse itself was a rich display of of paintings and tapestries and offered an array of religious vestments and tapestries on the second floor.
The rear of the cathedral was open and I was able to inspect the gated area to examine both the exterior architectural features and the tombstones set into the terraced area.
As I walked through one of the chapels at the rear of the structure, I spied a sign which advertised guided tours to the cathedral’s belltower. Undecided about the time it was scheduled (I had a lot more ground to cover), I left the church and made it as far as the Plaza Mayor’s center. It was only 35 minutes until the beginning of the tour…how could I not take advantage of the opportunity to see the cathedral in its entirety? Heading back to the cathedral, I paid for the tour and hastily made my way to the starting point, where the guide was already addressing a small group. Listening to the guide’s opening oration, I was eager to see what was in store for our group. Good views and a lot of information I hoped.
To be continued…
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Segovia Cathedral
- https://catedralsegovia.es/
- Address: Calle del Marques del Arco 1, Segovia, 40003
- Hours: November-March, 0900-1830, Monday through Saturday. April-October, 0900-2130, Monday through Saturday. Closed Sundays.
- Admission: General, €3.00, Seniors (ages 65+), €2.50, Children (under 10 years), free.