Zurich – Snapping The Globe

Lindenhof Lookout

If you want to see Zurich…see Zurich…

From above.

Some of the best views of Zurich can be found from Lindenhof Hill.

Lindenhof’s lofty location, atop the remains of a glacier, made it the prime location for the Roman’s to build a citadel during the years of Valentinian. This fortification was used as a line of defense against migration from the North by the Alamanni. Outfitted with ten towers and thick, two meter wide walls, it eventually became the fortification of the historical center of Zurich, rising twenty-five meters above the Limmat River.

Over the years, many other types of construction were situated on the hill, including a chapel and a royal residence. Graves of late medieval children and adults were also found in 1937 by archaeologists.

Finally, with the demolition of the royal residence, the hill became the only public park within the city walls, where residents met and bow and crossbow shooting were practiced. A variety of trees and plants were instilled in the park and in 1688, the Hedwig Fountain, sculpted by Gustav Siber, which depicts the legend of the siege of Zurich (1292), was erected in the park.

In 1851, the Masons purchased the adjacent Paradies building and converted it into a lodge. In 1865, the park was redesigned and chestnut and acacia trees introduced. The local population was not happy with its new look and in 1900, the park was given its present appearance.

Today, the park is a popular meeting spot and the location where numerous public events and festivals are held. Some of the best views of the city can be had here so on any given day, a large number of tourists can be found in the park, enjoying the beautiful Swiss buildings and clear river below.

The adjacent streets are closed to automotive traffic and it is a short walk to the church of St. Peter’s and the Fraumunster from Lindenhof Hill.

If you are new to visiting to visiting the city and want to first get your bearings, take a hike up the hill to Lindenhof park. You can get a lay of the land and then take the short walk to the other landmarks of the city.

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Lindenhof Hill

https://www.zuerich.com/de/besuchen/sehenswuerdigkeiten/lindenhof
Address: 8001 Zürich, Switzerland
Hours: 24 hours
Admission: free

The Cloister and the Deer

A couple of years ago, I visited the Fraumünster, one of Zurich’s four main churches. One of the city’s highlights, it boasts windows by Marc Chagall and a rose window by Augusto Giacometti. It is a historic site visited by thousands each year.

As much as I enjoyed my visit to the historic church, however, what is just next door to the Fraumünster is what is really the what visitors should come for!

Recently, a friend and I were walking past the Fraumünster, admiring its blue clock tower spire and carvings on the outer walls. Just past the church, we came to a gate and what appeared to be a cloister. Venturing inside, we discovered, that this was indeed the cloister from the ancient abbey.

The cloister was built at the end of the 12th century and moved to the present location in the 19th century. The Fraumünster church, next door, was built over the remains of the monastery around 1250.

As compelling as is a visit to the Fraumünster, it is the peaceful cloister’s origins that I found fascinating. In 853, King Ludwig of Germany’s two daughters, Bertha and Hildegard, lived in Baldern castle, high above the city. The extremely pious sisters would make their way down through the dark forest to the Grossmünster to spend time in prayer each morning and worship before the relics of Saints Felix, Regula and Exuperantius. Legend has it, however, that one day, the sisters encountered a stag with burning antlers in the darkened forest that led them down to the River Limmat across from the Grossmünster. After the encounter repeated itself many times, the sisters finally understood that it was a sign from God urging them to oversee the construction of a religious sanctuary for women at the edge of the river. King Ludwig was persuaded by his daughters to begin the fabrication and eventually appointed his daughters as the first abbesses.

This is the Legend of the Deer With the Lighted Horns and the fresco depicting this story can be spotted in the cloister along with many other amazing scenes painted by Swiss artist Paul Bodmer between 1924 and 1934.

Only a few other tourists walked through the cloister with its small central garden, flanked by two corridors, covered by beautiful Gothic arches. Other murals depicted the figures of Felix and Regula the patron saints of Zurich who are buried in the crypt beneath the Fraumünster and distinctive facial carvings can be spotted throughout the space on walls and atop columns.

A simple memorial was installed in the cloister on March 14, 2004 to honor Katharina von Zimmern, the last abbess of the Fraumünster Abbey. Created by sculptor Anna-Maria Bauer, the memorial consists of thirty-seven copper blocks layered into a compact square referring to the shape of an altar. There is also an engraved banner on the floor which states Die Stadt vor Unruhe und Umgemach bewahren und tun, was Zürich lieb und dienlich ist (to save the city from restlessness and surroundings and to do what is lovely and useful) referring to Von Zimmern’s handing over the convent to the reformation, thus stopping further bloodshed.

It was the legend of the deer, however, that kept bringing me back to inspect the murals more closely. What was it about Zurich and deer? There is another legend, involving King Ludwig’s grandfather, Emperor Charlemagne that tells how a stag led him to the graves of Saints Felix and Regula, but it was thinking back to a visit to Uetliberg, some time ago and remembering the large sculptural deer with lighted antlers lining the pathways. I had loved these strange tiled beacons, which represent what is an important part of Zurich’s history.

Whatever brings you to the Fraumünster’s cloister…be it the murals, the history, the tranquility or even the Legend of the Deer…know that you’ve stumbled across something extremely extraordinary!

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Fraumünster Cloister

https://www.fraumuenster.ch/
Address: Münsterhof 2, 8001 Zürich, Switzerland
Hours: Monday-Friday, 0730-1830, Saturday, 0800-1800
Admission: free

Read more about the Fraumünster in my blog post, “The Münsters” on www.snappingtheglobe.com. https://snappingtheglobe.com/?p=2404

The Largest Clock Tower

After visiting Zurich’s Predigerkirche, I was on a quest to make it to the last of the city’s four major churches that I had not visited before the end of the day.

The Church of St. Peter’s.

Problem was, there were so many photos to take in the beautiful Neumarkt area that I kept getting sidetracked!

Finally, crossing the river, it was easy to find the oldest parish church in Zurich. Standing on the former site of an ancient Roman temple to the god Jupiter, the church’s clock tower is said to be the largest in Europe and can be spied from most locations within the city. With a clock face measuring almost nine meters in diameter, it is an amazing site to behold!

Arriving at the church, we discovered, as did other tourists arriving at the same time, that the entrance was opposite of where we thought.

Making our way down the stairs, through the alley and back up another set of stairs, we finally found a courtyard with some interesting art pieces. Not even convinced that this was the entrance, we made our way inside to discover what makes this church interesting.

In 1345, the church was acquired by the city’s first mayor, Rudof Brun. His grave and monument can be seen by the outer tower wall. The first pastor, Leo Jud, served from 1523 until 1542 and contributed to the first translation of the Bible in Zurich. The church’s second pastor, J.C. Lavater, served from 1778 until 1801 and was so popular that people reserved seats for Sunday mass. His gravestone is in the courtyard, to the left of the entrance, on the church wall.

As I walked into the church, I noticed immediately the similarities between St. Peter’s and the Predigerkirche. The first church in Zurich that was built as a Protestant place of worship, after the Reformation during the eighth century, St. Peter’s exhibits the same elegant, simplicity although its tower and choir date back from a Romanesque church built in 1230.

During the Middle Ages, the short spire windows of the tower was the home of the town watchman, whose duty was to look out of the windows every fifteen minutes for signs of fire. Should a fire be spotted, he would sound an alarm and hang a flag out of the window facing the fire. Since Zurich, unlike so many other cities, never endured a major fire, the system worked well.

As I walked through the interior of the church, I took note of the three-aisled Baroque nave and the Romanesque choir that still contains some faded medieval murals. Above the pulpit, the name of God in Hebrew can be spotted, reflecting the Reformation emphasis on the original biblical languages. Another important feature of the church is the original 9th century foundation walls which can still be seen beneath the chancel.

In addition, St. Peter’s contains a baptismal font, dating back to 1598 and richly carved choir chairs from the 15th century. These chairs were transported to the church from the suppressed convents of the city. Make sure to take a look upward at the beautiful crystal chandeliers and the wood paneled gallery.

Even though, I initially thought that St. Peter’s was so very like the Predigerkirche, I learned from my visit that this church had a much richer history and much more to discover in its interior.

If you are taking a stroll through the streets of Zurich, take a look upward, find the largest clock tower and head that way! Its worth the visit!

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St. Peter’s Church

https://www.st-peter-zh.ch/home.html
Address: St. Peterhofstatt 2, 8001 Zürich, Switzerland
Hours: Monday-Friday, 800-1800, Saturday, 1000-1600, Sunday, 1100-1700
Admission: free
Getting There: Tram, stop Paradeplatz

The Preacher’s Church

If you are a church lover (like me!) and visiting Zurich, there are four churches that are must-sees!

The Grossmunster, the Fraumunster, the Church of St. Peter and the Predigerkirche.

Cloudy, drizzly day aren’t optimal for day trips outside of the city so I decided, instead, to head toward the train station and into the old town area of Zurich to seek out the two churches I had never visited on previous trips.

The Predigerkirche, the Preacher’s Church, was first built in 1231 AD as a Romanesque church, the largest in the city and converted in the first half of the 14th century when the choir was rebuilt and the high bell tower was added. Originally part of a monastery of the Dominican Order, the church appears to have been modeled after the Basilica of San Domenico in Bologna which was the most important church of the Dominicans and where their founder, Saint Dominic was buried in 1221. The church is now used as the “open town church” or a place of encounter with its side aisles containing a library, easy chairs and a dining area for free Sunday lunches. It also employs a Catholic priest and celebrates joint masses with Muslims and Buddhists and is often the site of evening concerts.

With my excitement growing as I turned off of Limmatquai street and made my way up the hill, I could see the beautiful bell tower of the church which is regarded as the highest Gothic edifice in Zurich. As I arrived at the church on Zahringerplatz, however, I was a bit disappointed with the church’s plain facade. Though the high window-lined walls of the side and rear of the church were a bit more interesting, I simply could not believe that this was was the entrance, especially with its magnificent bell tower!

Entering the church, I was also a bit underwhelmed. Appearing to be elegant and modern at first glance, I began to walk around the space, hoping for more detail. The high arched ceiling caught my attention and lent to the lofty atmosphere along with the wide, square columns which divided the space. Although the ceiling was decorated with light gold rosettes and molding, it was quite disappointing combined with the plain altar. Beautiful in its own right…I guess I am used to the extravagantly decorated churches of Italy!

As I turned to the rear of the church, the magnificent organ in the gallery caught my eye. Now, this piece definitely gives the church a bit of extravagance. I had noticed that there were other smaller organs scattered throughout the church but this pipe organ, built by Paul Hintermann and Jakob Schmidt, is the showstopper. It was installed in 1970, after the original (1503) was broken during the Reformation struggle and the replacement (1879), was deemed unworthy.

Another piece that caught my eye along the outer perimeter of the church was the grave plate of Heinricus de Ruchentstein, a ministerial member of the House of Rappersil and dates back to 1270. The grave plate is the oldest surviving piece of this kind and the oldest surviving grave plate in Switzerland. It is notable due to its arrangement of the inscription, the absence of the date and a cross.

Exiting the church, I made my way out into the streets of the Neumarkt quarter. Though I was a bit disappointed with my time at the Predigerkirche, it was still an interesting visit and I was glad that I had made my way into this part of the city. Certainly, I couldn’t skip out on seeing the final two of the main churches of the city.

Now, it was off to find St. Peter’s!

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Predigerkirche Zurich

http://© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.
Address: Zähringerplatz 68001 Zürich
Hours: Monday, 1200-1800, Tuesday-Saturday, 1000-1800, Sunday, 1200-1700.
Admission: free
Getting There: Tram, stop Rudolf-Brun-Brücke

The Gift of a Garden

Do you want to know a secret?

On the southeast bank of Lake Zurich lies a wonderful little secret…The Chinese Garden. One would never expect to find a Chinese garden in Zurich, but I promise you, it’s there…everyone loves a secret garden, right?

In 1994, as a gift from Zurich’s sister city, Kunming, the China Garden was opened. The garden was given to Zurich in gratitude for the help Zurich provided in restoring Kunming’s water facilities. The garden, considered one of the highest ranking gardens outside of China, is not what you would expect to find in the Swiss city, however, its unmistakable Chinese roof and red wall stand out along the promenade.

Three Friends of Winter, the garden’s major theme of Chinese culture, depict the pine, the bamboo, and the winter cherry together, braving the cold season.

Although very small, the garden is bright and tranquil with many places to sit and meditate. The structural design of the garden is based on three key principles, the arrangement of structural objects (building, artificial lake and rock formation), the layout (layout and walls) and the movement in the garden (paths and passages).

Scaffolding is present while some renovation is being done on the buildings, however, it is still pleasant to see and experience all that the garden has to offer. Informed by the attendant that no more than 10 minutes would be required to see everything, we stayed for almost 45 minutes, photographing and walking around the premises and through the buildings. In a city where everything is quite expensive, I would consider the entrance fee a fair price to experience something so unique!

Located between Bellerivestrasse and Blatter meadow at Zurich Horn on the right bank of Lake Zurich, it is located adjacent to a park and a children’s playground. Toilet facilities are available close by.

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Chinese Garden

https://www.stadt-zuerich.ch/ted/de/index/gsz/natur-_und_erlebnisraeume/chinagarten.html
Address: Chinagarten, Bellerivestrasse 138, 8008 Zürich
Hours: March 19 thru October 31, daily, 1100-1900
Admission: Adults, 4 CHF, Children (under 14), 1 CHF, Groups (from 10 people) 3 CHF (1 CHF=1 US)
Getting There: Tram Stop, Fröhlichstrasse

The Münsters

After returning from our Üetliberg expedition, my son and I ventured out from the Hauptbahnhof into the city. Zurich, relatively quiet on a Sunday, was perfect for a walk along the River Limmat toward two of Zurich’s well-known churches.

First on our list was Zurich’s Fraumünster Church, (The Church of Our Lady) founded in 853 by Louis the German. Built on the remains of a former abbey for aristocratic women, it now belongs to the Evangelical Reformed Church of the Canton of Zurich and is one of the four main churches of Zurich, the other’s being Grossmünster, Prediger and St. Peter’s church.

Easily visible for its slender green peak and clock tower, the Fraumünster stands out along the River Limmat. While the interior is not as ornate as other churches throughout Europe, visitors flock to this world famous church to see the five large stained glass windows designed by Russian-born artist Marc Chagall.

Three of Chagall’s stained glass windows

Installed in 1970, in the choir of the abbey, each window has a dominant color and depicts a Christian story. The five works are, Prophets, showing Elijah’s ascent to heaven, Jacob, depicting his combat and dreams of heaven, Christ, displaying various scenes of Christ’s life, Zion, illustrating an angel trumpeting the end of the world and Law, with Moses looking down upon the suffering of his people. Also worth noting is the impressive stained glass in the North transept created in 1940 by Augusto Giacometti, nephew of the famous Swiss abstract artist, Alberto Giacometti. A sign near the entrance advises visitors that no pictures are allowed inside the church, however, a few were taken discreetly.

Just across the river, the 12th century Romanesque ex-cathedral, Grossmünster was next on our list. Located in the Grossmünsterplatz, its twin towers soar above the other buildings in this area of Zurich. The Grossmünster, much like the Fraumünster, is not very ornate and quite bare. No statues and paintings decorate its interior, only a few faded frescoes. The pulpit was added in 1851 and the organ in 1960.

AG Fraumunster — Stained glass by Augusto Giacometti

Not to be outdone by the Fraumünster, stained glass windows were commissioned by Augusto Giacometti and Sigmar Polke. Giacometti’s window depicting the Three Magi bearing gifts to the Virgin and child has reigned in the choir since 1933. In 2009, German artist, Sigmar Polke, crafted seven windows in the nave from thinly sliced agate. The brilliantly colored result was then expanded with five glass windows featuring Old Testament figures. The scapegoat, Isaac, the Son of Man, Elijah and David all move in the direction of the birth of Christ and thus toward the window created by Giacometti.

Fraumunster9 — Stained glass by Sigmar Polke

A trip down to the Grossmünster’s crypt is also recommended as it is the largest in Switzerland. Here, you can now see the 15th century stone statue of Charlemagne, whom legend tells us is the founder of the church. The statue once stood atop the south tower and is now replaced by a replica. As with the Fraumünster, photos were not allowed in the Grossmünster.

As a frequent church “tourist”, I must say that these two churches were nice to occupy a couple of hours on a Sunday, when there is not much else to do in downtown Zurich. Not bowled over by extraordinary beauty as I have experienced in other cities, they are mostly to be appreciated for their architectural prevalence. If you respect and value art, however, time should be taken to behold the artistry of the world famous stained glass in both churches.

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Fraumünster

http://www.fraumuenster.ch/en/
Fraumünster, Münsterhof 28001 Zürich
Hours: March 1 thru October 31, 1000-1800, November 1 thru February 29, 1000-1700. On Sundays and holidays, the church will open after services at 12 noon.
Admission: No charge
Getting there: 5 minute walk from Hauptbahnhof (Main Station)

Grossmünster

http://www.grossmuenster.ch/de/
Address: Grossmünsterplatz, 8001 Zürich
Hours: Daily except Sundays, March thru October, 1000-1800, November thru February, 1000-1700. Sundays, open after services.
Admission: No charge
Getting there: 5 minute walk from Hauptbahnhof (Main Station)

Über Üetliberg

Uber: term with literal meaning of “above” in German (Urban Dictionary), being a superlative example of its kind or class (Merriam Webster)

Unless you speak German, the name Üetliberg may throw you for a loop (prounounced Oot-lee-berg). And unless you’ve been to Zurich, you may have never heard of the Swiss plateau mountain…or as some refer to it, “Zurich’s own little mountain”.

A few years ago, one of my crew members asked if we wanted to take the train to Üetliberg, do some hiking and have a picnic. Of course, being a beautiful warm day, we all decided that was a fantastic idea. Grabbing some goodies and drinks at the grocery store, we set off for our outdoor adventure.

Although not much hiking took place that day, we did find a great spot for our picnic and then finally went to the summit to admire to outstanding views of the city and Lake Zurich.

Last weekend, my oldest son, having just finished his first year of college, decided to accompany me to Zurich. He got to ride in style while I worked, but that was okay…I was excited that the flight was not very full and that we could spend some quality time together before he started his summer job.

Remembering my Üetliberg experience, I thought that it was a place he might enjoy, but after checking the forecast during the week, the weather did not look promising. When we landed, however, the skies were bright and sunny and the temperature hovered in the high 70s. A perfect day for Üetliberg!

Finding the ticket counter in the Hauptbahnhof, the main train station, was a little challenging, however, after asking around, tickets were soon in hand and we were on our way. A quick 20 minutes later, we were disembarking and heading toward the trail-head and the summit, some 2851 feet above sea level.

The paths were filled with hikers, mountain bikers, families and individuals enjoying the outdoor balmy temperatures and clear skies. The trails are not extremely steep and wide enough to accommodate a large number of visitors. Amusing lamp posts lines the way…though we never could figure out if they were some sort of deer or giraffe! As we finally reached the top, we were rewarded with outstanding panoramas of Zurich, Lake Zurich and the snow covered Alps.

At the top of Üetliberg presides Uto Kulm, a hotel and restaurant, an observation tower and nearby a TV tower. Surprisingly, there now resides a Christ the Redeemer Statue designed by a Lithuanian artist, though from news articles I’ve read, it is unclear how long the statue will remain in its current location. Still, it was fun to see and take a few photographs with especially since I have not yet been to Rio (on my bucket list!).

After gazing admiringly at the white-peaked Alps and then skipping the climb to the top of the observation tower, we decided to relax and have a couple of cool beverages. What more can you ask for…beer and beauty!

With so many trails available on this mountain and beyond, it was regrettable that we were unable to discover more of the natural exquisiteness of this area. With only 24 hours at our disposal, it was finally time to hike back down to the train station for our return to the city…for there was was lots more for my son and I to discover in Zurich! But if the outdoors is your thing…Üetliberg has much to offer, even in winter, when you can don your boots and bring your sled!

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Uetliberg

Getting there: From Zurich Hauptbahnhof (Zurich Main Station), take the S-Bahn Zurich service S10. Trains usually run every half hour during the weekdays and three times an hour on the weekends. Travel time is approximately 20 minutes.
Train fare: approximately 9 Swiss francs
http://www.uetliberg.ch/en/

Wandering…

Wandering is one of my favorite things to do while in many cities. Setting out with a map in my bag, is a necessity only if I am truly lost or just need a little guidance. I love going out with only a general plan in mind. Sometimes you never know what you will find!
Last week, I was in Zurich, Switzerland. Zurich is a very pristine and charming city and I love walking along the river in the Old Town area and along the northern shore of Lake Zurich. The last few times I have been to Zurich, it seems that I have only been there on Sundays. Most shops are closed and the streets are very quiet.
Taking the train into the city center, my goal was to find the free bike rental location. Years ago, I rented a bike from one of these free rental locations and rode along the river with a few of my coworkers. This time, I was alone and decided that I would use my bike to further my wandering.
Finding the bike rental location was a bit challenging and I thought that I would have to abandon my plans, but soon enough, I managed to stumble upon the area in which it was located.

https://www.zuerich.com/en/visit/sport/zurich-on-wheels
Many years ago, Züri Rollt Free Bike Rental secured the rental with a driver’s license or identification card, meaning they kept it until you returned the bike. They have now changed the process. They still require an identification card or passport. Your information is recorded and you are given a copy of the form, however, you now keep your means identification. You are also required to pay a $20 Swiss Franc deposit. When returning the bicycle, you give back the copy of the form and your $20 Swiss Franc deposit is returned.
After the formalities, I was finally on my way. Since it was Sunday and there wasn’t much traffic, I found it quite easy to navigate the streets on my way to the lakefront.
With an admiring glance out towards the Alps, I decided to head to the right of the lake. There are many bike and pedestrian pathways along the lake.
After riding for a while, I saw the bike rider in front of me take a left turn. I looked down the alleyway in which she had turned and noticed lots of graffiti. Now, I am a sucker for good graffiti, so I had no choice but to check it out. There was an entryway of sorts and the walls were lined with amazing graffiti. I walked with my bike throughout the area and down along the lakefront. I had no idea what this area was until I asked a local Swiss woman who was walking through the area. She informed me that it was called Rote Fabrik.
Rote Fabrik, or Red Factory, is a former factory in Zurich, which is now used as a music venue and cultural center. It is so named because the buildings are made of red brick, but also because left-wing parties were part of the campaign to turn the location into a cultural center.

After snapping many photos, I decided to head back to the city, return the bike and wander on foot.
Venturing through Old Town, I passed the Grossmunster and the Church of Our Lady (Fraumunster). Neither were open, but they offer themselves up for many a beautiful photograph. Along the Fraumunster, I spent about 15 minutes photographing the carvings on the side walls.

Finally, all that cycling had worked up a mighty appetite. Now, if you’ve ever been to Zurich, then you will know how expensive it is. Meals can run, on average $35-40 US (no drinks included). The last time I was in Zurich, we found a cute little place called Thai Bamboo right near the river on a side street. Address: Schoffelgasse 3, Zurich, Switzerland. Previously, I had the Pad Thai, which was good. Compared to other Pad Thai I have had before, I can say that I have had better. This time, however, I decided to try the Red Curry. Oh my goodness! I have been to Thailand and I can tell you that this ranks up there with any Red Curry that I have ever had in that country. The best part was that my Red Curry and two beers came to a grand total of $25! That’s a steal for
Zurich! Now mind you, it’s not a five-star restaurant…you select your meal from a counter-style serving area. You grab your drink from the refrigerated cooler and you seat yourself. But, I will trade all that for a very good meal served at the right price.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/thai-bamboo-z%C3%BCrich-2

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