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Our last day in the Azores…so much to do…so little time.
After misreading our map the day before and ending up on a different part of San Miguel, we had some backtracking to do. Lagoa do Fogo was our destination!
Honestly, though, I had no idea what exactly we were going to see. My Portuguese language skills were good enough to know that we were going to a lake, but what exactly was the draw?
Following the signs from the highway, we began an ascent into the mountains. Higher and higher, we climbed into the clouds…a light, misty rain making me a little nervous on the steep roadways. On we continued until finally noticing cars pulling into spaces on the side of the highway.
The wind was whipping and the temperature had plummeted as we stepped from the comfort of our car. From our altitudinous vantage point and through the fast-moving clouds, we caught our first glimpses of the beautiful Lagoa do Fogo.
Lagoa do Fogo, the Lake of Fire, is the largest crater lake on the the island of San Miguel and occupies the central caldera of the Agua de Pau Massif volcanic complex. A protected natural reserve, it is the habitat for local and imported plant species and many species of birds.
Dodging tour vans and other tourists at Miradoura da Barrosa, we headed down the mountain for a short distance before arriving at a second viewpoint, Miradoura da Lagoa do Fogoa. More parking was available here and we noticed many people descending down a steep path.
Although we later learned that an 11 km hike, including a trail around the lake, was an option many serious nature enthusiasts choose, the one available here was a much shorter choice…only 4 km. Thankfully, we were somewhat prepared for the weather and the trails and we decided to tackle the task of a muddy, descent to the lake.
The sandy shores of the lake were a welcome respite from the precipitous slopes of the cliffs of the caldera and we spent some time enjoying the clear waters and stunning scenery. Even a little rain didn’t dampen our spirits, only the trail on the way up.
After the long, arduous climb back to the summit, some much needed water and a quick study of the map, it was decided that continuing on to the eastern coast would have to wait until another trip. It was a pity as there were some amazing things that I wanted to see along the way…Our Lady of Peace Chapel and the Lighthouse Arnel. We were quite hungry and decided to head back toward Ponta Delgada and its unique pineapple plantations.
Pineapple A Arruda, was the first plantation that we decided to seek out. Though expecting see the fruit spread out along San Miguel’s hillsides, we were surprised to find a small property with a large number of greenhouses.
When pineapples were brought to the islands in the 19th century, the crop was intended as another source of income for the farmers of the region. There was one problem, however…the islands climate was not conducive for the growth of pineapples. Greenhouses were built and a thriving business was initiated.
Today, San Miguel has around 6,000 greenhouses and offers many products made from the tangy fruit, including cake, jam, chutney, mustard, liqueur, sweets and chocolate.
As we walked through the picturesque property, we noticed that each of the greenhouses sheltered plants in various stages of growth. After the soil is created from organic matter, bulbs are planted and then the shoots are transferred. After a year’s time, where the plants are watered regularly and the greenhouses are smoked to help catalyse simultaneous flowering and the deterrence of damaging bugs and insects the plants are cut and replanted. Finally, after two, long years, the pineapples are ready for harvest.
After such a long growing period, it suddenly became clear why these organic pineapples were so expensive the in the San Miguel grocery stores!
Another plantation, Santo Antonio was located a short distance from the first and we decided to navigate the narrow streets of the neighborhood to see how it compared to the first. The owner, a friendly man, was present and after allowing us to view a video on the entire life cycle of the pineapple, he gave us a tour of the property, explaining the process in more detail. Though this property wasn’t in as pristine condition as the first, we enjoyed each of them for the unique information we gleaned from our visits.
Heading back to the harbor, we decided to take a walk around Ponta Delgada. Not wanting our visit to end, we meandered down many of the streets we had missed on our first afternoon in the town, admiring the architecture, and artwork…even taking a visit to the extensive shopping area which extends into the harbor.
If you are looking to travel to a destination which involves “stepping outside of the box” the Azores are your destination. A beautiful place filled with natural beauty, architecture and history, you will never find yourself short of things to occupy your time. If you do…head over on the ferry to another island!
And trust me…go before it gets really touristy.
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Pineapples Agusto Arruda
- https://www.ananasesarruda.com/
- Address: Rua Doutor Augusto Arruda, Fajã de Baixo, 9500-454 Ponta Delgada, Portugal
- Hours: April through October, 0900-2000, November through March, 0900-1800, daily
- Admission: free
Santo Antonio Pineapple Plantation
- Address: Rua Doutor Augusto Arruda, Faja de Baixo, Ponta Delgada, Ponta Delgada, Sao Miguel 9500-454, Portugal
- Hours: April through October, 0900-1930, November through March, 0900-1800, daily
- Admission: free
As concerned as I was about the cows (I was warned that they tend to jump in front of cars! Hmm…yes, that was what I was told…), I was far more interested in the amazing scenic overlooks every few miles and the beautiful hydrangeas that lined the roadways.
Continuing onward, we soon found ourselves at the Miradouro da Vista do Rei, an overlook with views of Sete Cidades, the three mile wide caldera and its green and blue-hued lakes. According to legend, these lakes were formed from the tears of a shepherd and a princess who shared a forbidden love.
There is a parking area at the fork in the road with many trails leading into the crater. There is also an intriguing abandoned hotel located here which reminded me of a setting from a horror movie. Though it is now enclosed by a wall to keep intruders out, the wall is not high enough if you are really determined to see the rotting remains up close.
Continuing our journey, we soon found ourselves in Mosteiros, a seaside town on the northwest coast of San Miguel. Looking more like a Hawaiian postcard, this area boasts cliffs, rock formations, a black sand beach and blue water and is a great place to relax for a while. The waters are quite rough and more conducive to surfing than swimming but lifeguards were there to kee watch.
Rounding the northwest corner of the island, we drove through Bretanha, Remédios, Santa Bárbara, Santo António and Capelas, stopping to admire each overlook and the occasional church.
After a quick lunch in Ribeira Grande, we headed south. Our destination was Lagoa de Fogo, yet, we somehow ended up in Furnas. Furnas was on our itinerary for the next day, but we decided to alter our plans and take a look around a bit early.
Upon Canto’s death, he was laid to rest here beside his wife.
The chapel can be viewed from the path alongside the lake but you can also pay 3 euro to enter the José do Canto Forest Garden where you can inspect the chapel up close. The garden has nice trails, one of which leads to a high, narrow waterfall and many of the trees from around the world are labeled and includes a giant sequoia.
Upon your entry from the parking lot, make sure to pay attention to the Garden of Lagoa das Furnas on your left for the figures carved into the trees…it is also a great spot to have a picnic.
Despite my usual attention to detail, I found myself a bit unprepared for this trip, driving out of the airport rental car lot with only a vague map snagged from the rental car company.
Our hotel was easy to find on the harbor in Ponta Delgada, however, our room would not be ready until later that morning. Driving past, we headed east, following the rugged coastline, interspersed with black sand beaches and sapphire waters. Finding ourselves in Lagoa, we marveled at the colorful homes and businesses lining the narrow cobblestone streets and the white stone churches that seemed to be everywhere! It truly seemed that we were in Italy, not Portugal!
Driving through Saõ Roque I spied a beautiful church along the coast. Igreja de Saõ Roque is the main parochial church of the area and includes the Chapel of the Holies, an altar of immense value and decorated in hand-painted azulejo tile. It is also known as the burial place for the grandmother of the Marquês e Pombal.
Re-mastering my little stick-shift (which I had not driven in about 25 years), we cruised along the narrow lanes and sometimes highways, heading wherever…we had no plan in that moment.
Finally, heading back into Ponta Delgada, it was time for check-in and a much needed shower and nap.
Strolling along the main street, we dodged the occasional rain shower, peering into the shops and restaurants and hoping that the dark skies would not open up. Our destination, Fort de Saõ Bras de Ponta Delgada, was situated on the outskirts of the city and I was anxious to spend some time walking along the ramparts and admiring the harbor views.
Constructed in the 17th century, the Renaissance fort’s purpose was to defend the area against pirate raids as well as the Spaniards and the French. During both World Wars, the fort secured the safety of Allied shipping and today acts as a base for the Portuguese navy as well as housing a military museum.
Across the main road, we found the church of Saõ José. Looking like a typical Portuguese church from the outside, it offers a feast for the eyes on the interior. In the early 1500’s the Franciscan Friars built a convent in the location. Construction of the church was began in 1709 and showcases three naves and three chapels, including the Chapels of the Lord of the Thirds and Our Lady of Sorrows. Decorated with rich gilded woodwork, it also features important 18th century blue and white tiles and jacaranda appointments.
Another church, in the adjacent square is Igreja do Santo Cristo. Also exhibiting a beautifully gilded interior, this one threw me for a loop. As I positioned myself discreetly to photograph the altar, I noticed the door opening and a gentleman crawling on hand and knee into the church. Making his way to the rear of the building, he remained prostrate before a gated area. Many after him, came to the gated area and knelt for extended periods of time. Waiting patiently for a spot to open on one of the benches facing the bars, I finally made my way there and took a seat.
I was intrigued…what significance did this church have? After doing a bit of research later that evening, I learned that this chapel houses Senhor Santo Cristo dos Milagres, the wooden image of Christ which represents the Jesus of Nazareth as he was presented to the crowd wearing a crown of thorns on his head and with his bruised, beaten, whipped torso exposed. Created by an unknown artist, the statue is on display here in the church and is used to lead a procession through the city during the city for the festival honoring the Lord Holy Christ of the Miracles on the fifth Sunday after Easter and lasting until Thursday of the Ascension.
The interior was lavishly decorated with carved cedar and other exotic woods and the opulently carved altar and choir stalls guided me around the structure. As I made my way around the church, I was drawn to the age-old paintings from the 17th and 18th centuries, the elegant jacaranda furniture, the glazed tiles and the colorful images of the saints etched onto the windows. In the sacristy, an immensely valuable collection of gold-embroidered liturgical vestments can viewed.
Continuing on, we made our way through the cobblestone streets made of volcanic rock, admiring the beautiful patterns that led the way. So many things diverted our attention…musicians, shops displaying Azorian wares, people spread out in the promenades enjoying the lovely afternoon.
A good night’s rest was definitely needed…tomorrow was to be a day filled with more exploration of this unique and beautiful island.