Mexico – Snapping The Globe

Charming Cabo

Cancun? Yes. Cozumel? Yes. Puerto Vallarta? Yes.

Los Cabos? No.

When the opportunity presented itself to spend a little time in Los Cabos, my first, I decided that it would be nice see the differences between these Mexican cities.

During our long drive to the hotel, I noticed that the scenery was certainly different. Dry and arid, the landscape offered little in the way of buildings or any other sights until we passed through the town of San Jose del Cabo, filled with colorful homes and businesses.

Crossing the bridge over the estuary, we began to spy larger properties lining the coast and more greenery. Our hotel, the J.W. Marriott, was one of the nicest I have ever stayed in. The rooms were beautiful and the grounds, impeccable. During our first afternoon, we spent time hanging in the countless pools that cascaded down the hillside, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. As we swam and waded near the pool bar, we enjoyed our drinks, the music and the occasional crash of the giant waves below.

A little dismayed that we were not walking distance to shopping or restaurants, we were able to secure a short Uber ride into nearby San Jose del Cabo, the town we had passed through on our way to the hotel. Dropped off in the center, near the town square, we marveled at the well-lit streets filled with galleries, shops, restaurants and colonial architecture. It truly was one of the most charming Mexican towns I had ever been to!

Colorful flags fluttered overhead as we approached Plaza Mijares. Here the town’s residents gathered on the Saturday night to visit near the gazebo and listen to music being performed on the stage. It was a lively affair, but the thing that caught my attention was Mission San Jose del Cabo Anuiti, the Catholic church keeping watch over the festivities from its perch on the high steps. With its origins dating back to 1730, the church is dedicated to St. Joseph and is the center of the community.

After a few quick photos with the San Jose del Cabo sign in front of the church, we decided to take a quick look inside. The church was bright and airy, narrow with high ceilings, but sadly in need of some repair. Not wanting to interrupt the parishioners in prayer, we stood at the rear and snapped a couple of quick photos.

Since we were in search of our dinner we continued on, occasionally ducking into the one of the countless galleries and courtyards filled with sculpture and cute shops stocked with intricately crafted souvenirs. Venturing away from the busier food joints, we finally found a quaint eatery filled with locals. I always say, “eat where the locals eat” and I can assert that we were not disappointed! After some amazing tacos, we decided to call it a night and head back to our home away from home.

The next morning, I awoke early and decided to spend a bit of time exploring the grounds of our wondrous hotel. Courtyards boasted sculpture and indigenous flowers and plants. The walkways were lined with color, the blossoms still wet with the morning’s dew. As I made my way back down to the lowest level, where we had spent time the day before, I skirted the chairs and umbrellas which awaited the sun-seeking guests and headed down the wooden staircase to the beach. Enjoying the warm sands between my toes, I made my way southward. The roar of the crashing waves that we heard the day before, was more intimidating in person and I noted that there were no beach chairs here. I wondered if that was due to Covid or just as a deterrent by the hotel to keep people off of the beach and out of the powerful current.

I pondered this as I continued my stroll skirting the rocks and tide pools. Why would someone travel all this way to stay at a beach resort where they could not use the beach? The ocean was beautiful to look out upon and the hotel’s cascading infinity pools were spectacular and refreshing, but couldn’t you enjoy an amazing pool elsewhere? Like, say Vegas? As a beach lover, I was a little perplexed and as I gazed up and down the beach, I rarely saw a soul.

Finishing my waterfront walk, I headed back up the hillside to the hotel grounds. It was getting close to the time to pack up and prepare to make my way back to the airport for my flight.

As I spoke to a fellow passenger on my flight, I was asked how I had enjoyed my trip to Los Cabos. Would I go back for a longer stay?

While I had enjoyed my visit, my answer was a convoluted one. Personally, I would love to go back to see more of San Jose del Cabo and maybe stay in one of the hotels in the nearby hotel zone…if and only if…I learned that the beaches were usable. My hotel was beautiful but left me wanting more. I think that those desiring privacy and luxury would love the J.W. Marriott, but I don’t think it would be my choice for more than a couple of nights.

How did Los Cabos compare to other Mexican cities that I visited in the past? It was a lovely place that I think that I would return to one day, however, the turquoise waters of Cancun and Cozumel are more of a draw for the things I enjoy.

With over two million visitors per year, Los Cabos is attractive to many and worth a look whether it be a short stay or long. I think the strength of the attraction is what someone is searching for…be it privacy, partying, sightseeing, golf or deep-sea fishing…definitely its allure is in the eye of the beholder.

I guess I was eyeing something not necessarily better, just a little bit different.

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J.W. Marriott

https://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/sjdjw-jw-marriott-los-cabos-beach-resort-and-spa/
Address: Fraccion Hotelera Fh5-C1, Subdelegacion de la Play, San Jose del Cabo, 23403, Mexico

Mission San Jose del Cabo Anuiti

http://www.oldcabo.com/san-jose-del-cabo-anuiti/
Address: Miguel Hidalgo S/N, Gallery District, Centro, 23400 San Jose del Cabo, B.C.S., Mexico
Hours: Monday thru Saturday, 0900-2000, Sunday, 0900-1700
Admission: free

The Mexico of Old

The Mexico of old. Do you remember?

Over twenty years ago, I remember driving around Cozumel in a rented (and rusted and dented) convertible Volkswagon Beetle, stopping at little bars and restaurants and snorkeling on stretches of unspoiled beaches. I remember riding the bus in Cancun for 35 cents and having dinner for about $5 per person. There were very few all-inclusive resorts and though many of the hotels were tall structures, they could not be compared with the mega-resorts spanning the coastline today.

My, oh my! Amazing what twenty years can bring.

The last time I went to Cancun and Cozumel, I was shocked at how much both had changed. Boutique hotels, heavy traffic, shopping malls and dinners averaging about $25 per person. I was not charmed by it anymore.

When we found out that we would be docking in Costa Maya, Mexico, I assumed that it was near Playa del Carmen and was less than thrilled. My recent visions of Cancun and Cozumel, still haunted me. I could only envision modern Mexico with beaches filled with tourists and high-end establishments.

And…I admit, I never really bothered to look at a map.

One of my good friends, who knows my adventurous spirit well, told me that the port, built by Carnival, was really nice but that I needed to take a taxi into town so that we could enjoy the beaches and local establishments. She said, “It’s like Mexico used to be.”

That’s all it took. I was intrigued and we would be heading into town.

As we looked down the coastline from our balcony, we could see a lighthouse and some low-rise buildings. Closer to the walkway from the pier, we could make out some thatched buildings, a large pool and what appeared to be a pyramid, but not much else.

After walking down the pier towards shore, what we found was quite surprising. This port was amazing! Pools, plenty of lounge chairs, shops, souvenirs, restaurants, bars, Dolphin Discovery, signs pointing to a beach area with snorkeling…

Did we really want to leave?

Surmising that my friend must have told me to go to town for a reason, we continued the long walk to the front of the property, winding our way through the stalls and artwork. Only spotting one cab parked alongside the curb, we assumed that taxi service was probably more expensive and decided to take the shuttle for $4 per person.

The open-air shuttle, pulled by a pickup truck, pulled out of the port’s gates and as we turned onto the main road, we discovered where the cabs were parked. The shuttle gave us a full view of the passing landscape. Not much was new construction and nothing appeared to be over four stories. After about a eight minute ride, we were pulling up to the curb in the town of Mahahual. Hedging the few locals who attempted to get us to use the chairs on their property, we decided to take a walk down the beach to first see what was available before making ourselves comfortable.

Mahahual…took…my…breath…away!

My first thought was that it looked so much like Ambergris Caye, Belize but with nicer beaches. Maybe if I had looked at a map, I would have realized how far south we were in Mexico…so very near the Belize border and Ambergris Caye. Located in the State of Quintana Roo, Costa Maya is the only state bounded by the Caribbean Sea to its east and offers a beach that extends north and south for a total of 62 miles.

We walked south, down the well-paved path, admiring the blue water, gentle surf and white, powdery sand, lined with beach chairs. There were countless restaurants and bars and no shortage of local women offering to give me a massage. The quaint fishing village, still had not caught up to the modernity of Cancun and Cozumel and I loved that there was not a name-brand hotel or McDonald’s in sight.

After being away from email, Facebook, Instagram and whatever it is that my children subscribe to, we were all anxious to log on, see what we missed for the past couple of days and check in with our friends and family. The first order of business was to find comfortable beach chairs, with some shade for my husband and good wifi. There were plenty of establishments offering chairs, all for free if you order drinks and/or food from them during the day.

That being done, we ventured out to the water’s edge, checked the temperature (a little cool) and signaled to our waiter for some drinks and lunch. The restaurant we had chosen to do business with, Maramao, was efficient and delicious…probably some of the best cerviche I have ever eaten!

After a while, I decided to take a walk. Heading north, this time, I reveled in the stone architecture, topped with thatched roofs, quirky bars, and countless vendors selling everything from t-shirts, to sandals, to Mayan masks…and much more!

After I while, I spotted our ship in the distance, reminding me that our stay in beautiful Mahahual was not permanent. Turning back, I meandered slowly, knowing that we would soon have to catch a cab.

And then, that was it. Our time in a paradise that I didn’t know existed was over.

As we sailed away from the port, I vowed that I would be back.

Mahahual, has so much more to discover…diving, fishing, ruins, ATV riding, ziplines, jungle exploration, water parks and authentic Mexican cuisine. Xcalak, a smaller village is located only 37 hours to the south and boasts amazing water sports and fishing. Mahahual, I learned, is only a six hour drive from Cancun. A bit lengthy but there are also flights to Chetamal, a two hour drive.

Yes, to rediscover the Mexico of old, I am willing to do that.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Costa Maya

https://costamaya.com/

Norwegian Cruise Lines

https://www.ncl.com
Ship Name: Norwegian Pearl
Itinerary: 7 days, departing Tampa. Ports of call, Harvest Caye, Belize, Costa Maya, Mexico, Roatan, Honduras, Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands

El Coz

The Ritz Carlton it’s not…

But, then again, I probably won’t ever stay at the Ritz Carlton. Nothing personal… they have lovely properties. They are just very expensive!

My husband likes higher-end hotels. Me? As long as it’s clean, safe and in a good location, that’s good enough for me. After all, I’m never in my room except to sleep! My money is better spent on enjoying the location.

As my son and I decided to venture out to Cozumel at the last minute, we had minimal time to make hotel arrangements. Finding a few properties that were all-inclusive and at great rates, was a bonus! Trouble was, I didn’t quite remember how Cozumel was laid out. With the clock ticking, we had to make a decision. Having narrowed our list down to five properties, we began to compare them…number of bars and restaurants, location of the room type, available wi-fi (and if for a charge), beach size, number of pools, etc.

Eventually, we decided on the El Cozumeleño for its ocean front room, balcony and free wi-fi…and more importantly, the price.

After our arrival into Cozumel, we hired one of the shared buses to take us to our hotel in the north zone. As we traveled to this end of the island, one of the things I noticed was that other hotels and a couple of restaurants were nearby, but nothing else. This did not present a problem with meals as we were staying at an all-inclusive property, however, there was not going to be a quick walk into town and it did not appear that there was any kind of bus system.

Our first impression of the hotel was that it was neat, clean and well presented. The lobby areas had plenty of seating and a large check-in desk.

The hotel staff was extremely pleasant and our room was ready at check-in. Our room was far from luxurious and a little dated, but extremely clean and one of the largest I have stayed in, with a balcony, sitting area with a pull-out couch and bathroom divided into two parts, toilet and shower and sink/vanity area.

During check-in, I was informed that the restaurant behind the lobby bar, La Veranda, required reservations (which we had just missed making), but there was one other restaurant, El Cocal, the buffet, which was located outside between the two pools as well as the availability of room service and a snack bar adjacent to the poolside bar. We decided to try El Cocal, that evening and made reservations for La Veranda for the next.

Over the course of our trip, we never did get to try room service, however, we much preferred La Veranda for dinner. Breakfast at this locale was very good, however, the service was slow, so for the other two mornings, we dined at the buffet and also had lunch there and at the snack bar near the poolside bar. Overall, our opinion is that breakfast and lunch should be taken at the buffet unless time is not of the essence. Dinner should definitely be taken at La Veranda.

A full list of activities (ping pong tournament, exercise classes, etc) for each day was located at the towel exchange and snorkel equipment (free for 1 hour of use each day or for a daily charge) and golf clubs were available for the on-site mini-golf…an entire 18 holes, which we played a few times…a very challenging course! There was also a large-scale chess set located near the pool.

The pools were spacious and clean and a there was plenty of seating, however, the beach chairs that were not under the few thatched umbrellas were of a strange shape and collected rainwater. A nice row of hammocks lay between the main pool and the beach and two jacuzzis were situated near the pools. The beach area was a bit rocky and it would be best to wear water shoes to enter and exit the water. We did attempt to snorkel, however, although there were quite a few fish, the remaining reef was not in good shape.

Three bars were located on the premises, one in the lobby, one in the pool as a swim-up bar and one adjacent to the pool and the buffet. The servers were always very friendly and eager to recommend new, delicious drinks.

Overall, the resort was good, though in desperate need of evening entertainment and activities. Our main complaints, however, were concerning the location, wi-fi and the hotels elevators.

For those who prefer to always remain on the resort, its seclusion may be a plus, however, I enjoy having the ability to take public transportation to other areas of the city that we are staying in for shopping and sightseeing. Yes, there were cabs, however, one-way cab fare to town, was about $10 and there was always a discrepancy between being quoted in pesos and dollars. If we were quoted 100 pesos and you checked the daily conversion rate in U.S. dollars, that would have been about $6.00. If you asked what the rate was in dollars, you would be told $10.00.

Another issue was the on-site car rental. They realize that they have a captive audience. Deciding to rent a car so that we could check out the island and some of the attractions, I was a shocked to hear that the car rental price was about $74.00 (after taxes for automatic transmission and about $10 less for manual transmission). After checking out prices on line, I found that rental rates from the airport were about half that price. Had I given this some forethought, it would have been about the same price to rent the car at the airport and keep it for the three days, as we also paid $17 each way to and from the airport. With that option, we could have had a little more freedom.

Wi-fi was one of the the deciding factors for us. Remembering our resort in Punta Cana and the high daily rate they charged for slow service, we decided that we did not want to be cut off from our family and friends. What we learned, however, was that while wi-fi was advertised as complimentary, it was only available in the lobby and it was extremely slow. We could text and look up information on the internet, however, we could not upload pictures to Facebook, Instagram and Snapchat.

The other major problem with this hotel was that while we were there, a tropical disturbance in the Gulf of Mexico was causing massive amounts of rain. This was not the resort’s fault. El Cozumeleño’s fault is that the elevators faced the outside and were subject to the elements. Many times we found the elevators inoperable and were directed to the service elevator, which sometimes was also not working. Being on the eighth floor, it was not always an option to be running up and down the stairs of which parts were open to the outside and were extremely wet.

A friend recently asked me for recommendations for all-inclusive hotels on Cozumel. Would I recommend El Cozumeleño? Overall, we had a nice time and for the price, it was a good deal as well as safe and clean. Personally though, I think maybe I would try something a little different on a future trip, possibly on a different part of the island. But, if you like seclusion and to be cut off from the world…this is your place! If not, rent a car at the airport.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

El Cozumeleño

http://www.elcozumeleno.com/default.cfm
Address: Playa Santa Pilar KM 4.5 Zona Hotelera Norte, 77600 San Miguel de Cozumel, Mexico
Shared ride service from the airport: $17.00 US (for two persons)
Cab service from the hotel to the airport: $17.00

A Walk in the Jungle

Having visited San Gervasio archaeological site twice in the past, it was a place about which I could have said, “Been there, done that”.

Not me…

I love ruins and architecture. So why would I not go back?

The largest and most important archaeological site on Cozumel is a sanctuary to Ixchel, the goddess of fertility and love. Located in the center of the island in the middle of a lush jungle, populated with iguanas, flowers and foliage, the site’s name was taken from the agricultural and cattle ranch, San Gervasio, founded by Mr. Gervasio Novelo on September 14, 1858.

The site’s original name is unknown, but its long history dates back to 100 BC and it continued into the late 16th century, with the arrival of the Spaniards.

For the duration of San Gervasio’s existence, women have made the obligatory pilgrimage to pay tribute to Ixchel, “She Of the Rainbows”, deity of midwifery, fertility and women.

The site’s entrance is well-marked on Transversal Road, but once turning from the main road, the drive is long and narrow and marked with a speed limit that I think the iguanas could outrun.

A decent parking lot is available for those with rentals and a nice, attendant will keep an eye on your car…be sure, he will remember you and be standing nearby for his tip!

When entering the complex and paying your entrance fee of $4.50, you will first encounter a courtyard, with a few souvenir shops. Since, I only had a rain slicker, we were trying to purchase a small umbrella for my son. The shops only carried the long, curved handle type, for $10, which would have been impossible to bring home. One of the shop owners, offered to lend us one, for a tip…actually a good deal for us and a smart move on her part. How many times has this umbrella paid for itself?

Another tip I learned later was about bug spray…definitely bring your own. My son is a mosquito magnet and I did not think of picking up some while in town. The shop vendors were more than willing to sell us a very expensive can, which we did not purchase due to the size and cost. Later, I learned that we could have asked for a spray down for a tenth of the cost of the can…something we should have definitely done for my son.

It is in this area that you can hire a guide to take you throughout the complex and the price for the both of us was $20, though we opted not to use this service. Restrooms are also located here and I recommend using the facilities before entering the site.

Before entering the actual archaeological site, you encounter another ticket counter. I don’t understand the logic here…would you seriously pay just to enter the courtyard? Anyway, here we paid $5 each and received our tickets.

The site is very well laid out, well marked and has sturdy paths to lead you from one area to the next in the front of the complex.

One of the first buildings you encounter is the The Little Hands Structure, so named because of the red colored hand prints that mark the wall. The temple is comprised of two rooms in which a small temple was built in the interior of one of them.

Another small house-like structure is located nearby, although it is almost certain to have had a ceremonial use. A small temple is also located in the center of the structure.

As we continued on, we encountered other small structures, but an impressive arch-like structure, which marked the intersection of two ancient roads or sacbés, caught my eye. In pre-hispanic days, The Arch Structure, was the entrance or exit of the central part of San Gervasio. Pilgrims and traders would reach the famous sanctuary of Ixchel to make an offering at the altar that lies in the middle of the vaulted passageway. It was here that many statues to Ixchel were found and are still being discovered. One of the statues, a large ceramic image of Ixchel was believed to have delivered oracles spoken by a hidden priestess for pilgrims with questions.

From this point, we chose one of the two roads to either Pozo or Nohoch Nah. The paved paths ended here and the road was rocky and a bit muddy from the recent rains.

Nohoch Nah, also known as the the Big House Structure, was quite an impressive one. An altar in the middle of the enclosure, in which offerings were placed can be seen through the grated metal that covers the doorways. Most archaeological sites prohibit you from standing on or climbing the structures, however, this one allows for climbing the stairs and walking around the formation giving you a distinct understanding of how the Mayans felt when they utilized the structure.

After a long and drizzly walk through the jungle, complete with massive puddles blocking the path, we soon arrived at Murciélagos y Pet Nah. The Muciélagos and Round House Structures were the most important buildings in the Late Classic period in San Gervasio. The principal center of the site was located here and it was also here that the Overlord resided. The Round House was named as such due to the unusual rounded platforms and its altar which is also round. Again, we were able to climb to the top of the rounded platforms giving us a different perspective of Murciélagos.

After another long and muddy walk through the jungle, we soon arrived at the final area of San Gervasio, complete with four distinct structures. The Palace Structure contained colonnaded halls most of which can still be seen standing on the foundation. Though you were not prohibited from climbing the other structures, here, signs inform you that it is not allowed.

In this wide, grassy area, another structure, is the Ossuary, The structure was aptly named after numerous human remains were found inside during exploration of the building. The temple no longer exists, but originally had masonry walls and a a roof.

Another smaller structure also stands here in this area, Structure 25B, which was also another colonnaded hall with a masonry roof. Different from other colonnaded halls, it only had three pillars with square bases and three columns with round bases.

Back to the smooth, paved walkways, we made our way toward the front of the complex returning our umbrella along the way.

Though San Gervasio is not quite as large as Chichen Itza or many of the other massive ruin sites in the Riviera Maya and has not had a lot of restoration, the numerous structures that can be viewed at close range amid the beautiful natural setting makes the off-the-beaten trek, worthwhile.

So…grab your sunglasses, umbrella and bug spray and your sense of adventure…head on over to San Gervasio.

Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

San Gervasio

http://www.inah.gob.mx/es/zonas/101-zona-arqueologica-san-gervasio
Address: Kilómetro 7.5, Carretera Transversal, Centro, 77600 Cozumel, Q.R., Mexico
Hours: Monday thru Sunday, 0800-1630
Admission: $9.50
How To Get There: By car, head north on Transversal Road from downtown Cozumel. The entrance is well-marked. If you are arriving by cruise ship, many taxis will take you to the ruins and wait for about $70 and return you to San Miguel or the cruise ship’s dock.

A Vibrant Village

Mayan ruins dot the landscape throughout Mexico.

On Cozumel, two archaelogical sites are easily accessible to tourists…

San Gervasio is the largest and located in the central part of Cozumel.

The smallest, but oldest, El Cedral, is located near the south coast.

Having never heard of El Cedral, we were anxious to check out this small fertility temple, dating back to 800 AD. Once functioning as a jail in the 19th century, it is located in a small village and is thought to have been an important ceremonial site.

As we drove through the arched entrance, it was late afternoon and we wondered if our arrival might be too late. Passing through a gate, we traveled down a long rural road before arriving at the front of the village.

A central plaza spread before us with a large, covered pavilion, lined with brightly covered flags. A nearby covered structure contained a large number of inscribed benches and there were a few vendor’s storefronts as well as the Hacienda Tequila Museum, which offers tequila tastings.

Not seeing a ruin or signs directing us to one, we turned left and drove around the village. What a treat! Brightly colored houses, with festive crosses and art displays greeted us at every corner.

As we made the full circle, back to the front of the village, a kindly villager stopped our car to direct us to the location of the ruin and showed us a parking location.

Festive statues greeted us at the front of the pavilion and after walking through the pavilion, we found the temple located at the far, left end. Not very impressive and having no ornamentation, the ruin sits next to the highlight of the village, a small stucco church, which is known to be the first church on the island, the Church of El Cedral.

The church, rather small and simple, is light and airy although its seating does not appear to be very comfortable. On the altar were three small garments that appeared to be draped over three crucifixes. I was quite curious about these, but with no one nearby, I was unable to find out more.

Knowing that the large pavilion in the center of town houses a five-day festival, Féria El Cedral, which brings people from all over Mexico at the end of April or early May, to enjoy the festivities, I had no idea that these crosses had anything to do with it.

Once we had walked around the church, we returned to visit one of the the souvenir shops. Here, I found out more.

Legend has it that 150 years ago, a young man by the name of Casimiro Cárdenas was attacked during the Caste War in the town of Saban. Though the enemies killed his companions, Cárdenas survived the massacre by hiding under other bodies, while clutching a cross, an event which came to be known as the Miricle of Saban. So strongly that Cárdenas believed that the cross was the reason he survived that he vowed to honor the cross even as he later settled in El Cedral. Soon after arriving in the town, he and the other immigrants celebrated the first services to honor the holy cross in which after praying, they received the toche (blessing with the cross). Invitations were also extended to the residents of the main town of Cozumel, a tradition that still continues.

The pavilion is where the traditional and folkloric events are performed and many other events are held in conjunction with the festival…horse racing, rooster fights, rodeo, concerts and bullfighting. Large quantities of food are prepared and consumed and commemorative merchandise is sold throughout the event. The Pigs Head dance, in which dancers carry a decorated pig’s head, is one of the culminating events of the festivities.

After the death of Casimiro Cárdenas, his wife continued the festivities and today, his descendants are the keepers of the holy cross of Sabán. The festival is held between April 23 with prayers commencing at dawn and end on May 3rd with a traditional dance “Cabeza de Cerdo”, symbolizing Jesus Christ’s sacrifice.

While making the drive around Cozumel, take a half hour out of your day to visit El Cedral, a town steeped in tradition and history. Very easy to find, it is located 3 km west of Carretera Costera Sur. The turnoff is near Km 17, across from the Alberto’s Restaurant sign. And, if you are on the island during festival season, be sure and visit…and tell us about it!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

El Cedral Village, Church and Archaeological Ruins

Hours: Open daily
Admission: free
How to Get There: Located 3 km west of Carretera Costera Sur. The turnoff is near Km 17, across from the Alberto’s Restaurant sign.

Cruising Around Cozumel

Some arrive in Cozumel by cruise ship.

Some by air.

Some by ferry.

No matter your method of transportation into Cozumel, make sure you’ve arrived by checking out all that the island has to offer!

My family and I have been to Cozumel many times over the years. Most times we have arrived by ferry, a couple of times by cruise ship, but this time, my son and I arrived by air. Honestly, I am a flight attendant and I should know these type of things, but I don’t think I realized that Cozumel had an airport…as I’ve only ever talked to people who have flown into Cancun and gone to Cozumel by ferry.

School had just let out and everyone in my family was busy with work and other obligations except for me and my youngest son. An adventure was in order! We had no idea where we were going to end up. We were going to go to the airport, with suitcases filled with clothing for any climate and get on a flight…any flight…and see where we could go.

After miraculously getting seats on an oversold flight to Atlanta, we had to devise a plan. Grabbing breakfast and a seat at McDonald’s, we opened up my computer and began checking which flights from Atlanta had seats to and from the destination. Sunny Cozumel was the winner! (Or so we thought…) A few hours later, we were touching down at the Cozumel International Airport. We couldn’t wait to lay by the pool and get some much need sun and relaxation.

To our dismay, no beautiful, sunny skies were there to greet us…only gray clouds and wet pavement. How can this be? We were arriving at a tropical destination…a resort…don’t they order up beautiful weather for the tourists? Surely this was just a passing rain shower!

After arriving at our hotel, the El Cozumeleño, we donned our bathing suits and headed out to the pool. It was raining again. No good. Time to pull up to the bar.

It continued to rain…all night…and after a text to my dad, I realized that because I don’t watch the news regularly, I had failed to comprehend that it was hurricane season and a tropical storm was causing havoc in the Gulf of Mexico. Ugh…

The next morning, with high hopes, I pulled back the curtains in our room, hoping for sun. Nope. No sun again. Those same gray clouds and a light rain greeted us.

Well, we were in Cozumel. Rain or not, we were going to see what was out there, even if we had to buy umbrellas and rain slickers. It was time to make the best of it!

After renting a Jeep Patriot (great for driving through floodwaters) we headed out. Navigating the narrow streets, we drove slowly, through the pouring rain until we reached the main highway that cuts through the middle of the island (Transversal de Cozumel). The rain had slowed and we were soon arriving at San Gervasio archaeological site. Thankfully, the rain soon tapered off and we were able to spend some time investigating these interesting ruins.

Heading east again, we soon spotted the end of the road. Only two ways to go…north or south. Since we had been warned by our rental company that traveling on the dirt road to the north would void our rental contract, we decided that it was southbound for us!

This part of the island has some amazing beaches and breathtaking scenery and at the turn in the road, a very cool bar and restaurant…Señor Iguanas. Years ago, I remember coming to this part of the island and there only being some small fisherman’s huts and small shacks that sold tacos and beer. Although we would have loved to hang out at Señor Iguanas and enjoy the views, the ambiance and the forty mile per hours winds whipping through the establishment, we decided to get some food to go and continue on our way. After all, we now had a break in the rain.

The waves were quite large and for a while, we stopped to watch a group of surfers ride the massive crests toward shore. If there had been more of a gentle swell, my son would have considered taking a lesson at one of the many venues along the way that offer private instruction.

As we continued on, we stopped often to admire the spectacular coastline, shop at the many vendors that line the roadway and just enjoy our drive and time being away from the resort.

As we rounded the island’s southernmost tip, we headed west and made our way, past many resorts, to the village of El Cedral which boasts the first church on the island and a Mayan ruin. I especially enjoyed driving around the town’s back streets…lots of cute homes and artwork line the streets!

With the rain still at bay, we drove through downtown (vowing to make our way here the next day for shopping), past a tall lighthouse and on to a place we had seen on our way to the hotel.

Bam No. 4 Military Base (Base Aérea Militar No. 4) offers some great photo ops with some old military planes displayed out front. In addition, there is a war memorial, honoring some of the defenders of the nation.

Leaving our car parked in this location, we made the short walk back towards town to a small square located between the roadways. Here, there is a replica of a Mayan temple with statues depicting ancient Mayans.

As the day was drawing to a close, we made our way back to our hotel and our dinner reservations, ever thankful that we were able to see what Cozumel had to offer even though the weather wasn’t up to par.

Pulling back into the El Cozumelena, with not a moment to spare, we parked our car as the skies opened up again and we made a mad dash inside! Time to head to the bar…

Cozumel is a lovely destination for anyone who loves islands or is a diver or snorkeler (thousands of dive sites lie just offshore). There are many delicious food options throughout the city and various types of shopping in the central plaza and throughout the island. And…if you run out of things to do in Cozumel, take the ferry (located downtown) right on over to the mainland and Playa del Carmen and the Mayan Riviera. You will find many other things to do there as well!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

San Gervasio Archaeological Zone

http://www.inah.gob.mx/es/zonas/101-zona-arqueologica-san-gervasio
Address: Kilómetro 7.5, Carretera Transversal, Centro, 77600 Cozumel, Q.R., Mexico
Hours: Daily, 0800-1630.
Admission: $9.50 (US dollars)
Bring comfortable shoes, water and bug repellent.

Senor Iguanas

Address: At the intersection of Transversal de Cozumel and Quintana Roo C-1

El Cedral

Address: Off of highway Quintana Roo C-1, near Playa Palancar
Admission: free

Bam No. 4

Address: On Avenue Rafael E. Melgar, just past downtown, heading north
Admission: free

The Birdmen of the Beach

Walking along the Malecón, in Puerto Vallarta, there is no shortage of free entertainment.

Bartenders and waitresses, line dance on the sidewalk to entice you to enter.

Renaissance figures mysteriously float over the sidewalk.

Shiny Mexican outlaws decorate the benches.

Statues pour water.

They are all there to entertain you and make a quick peso!

As we strolled along the boardwalk, at the noon hour, I noticed a tall pole in the distance. There was movement at the top and as we neared, I realized that there were five men perched atop this pole. Searching my memory, I realized that I had seen this before somewhere else in Mexico.

These were the Mexican pole flyers (or birdmen, as they are sometimes known) who perform Voladores de Papantla, the Ritual of the Voladores.

Persuading my children that we should wait, we found a shady spot under a palm tree and watched the brightly dressed men prepare for their ceremony.

The dance of the flyers is a Mesoamerican ceremony in which five participants climb to the top of a thirty foot pole. Suspended by ropes wound around the top of the pole, four of the flyers, representing the four directions and the elements of air, water, earth and fire, fall backward off of the pole and then fly through the air upside down, sometimes in elegant birdlike poses, as they are rotated thirteen times and lowered to the ground. The fifth dancer, playing a drum and a flute, remains at the top.

According to legend, this ceremony was created to ask the gods to stop droughts in ancient times, but is now a recognized historical and cultural dance that is kept alive by communities to honor the historical traditions and rituals of ancient cultures. Voladores de Papantla ceremony was named an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO in 2009, in order to help the ritual survive and thrive in the modern world and may be seen in various areas throughout the country.

A school for flyer children was established in Takilhsukut Park on Tecolutla, Mexico, where formal instruction is given on ceremony. Flyers must spend ten to twelve years in preparation before participation in an event and women are prohibited from performing. Sometimes a dangerous event, there are many deaths each year due to poorly knotted ropes and other types of improper preparations.

We were all mesmerized as we watched the colorful flyers wind their way down to the beach below, wondering aloud how they were able to stand after the continuous spinning!

The large crowd that had gathered, rightly erupted into applause for the performers at the end of their performance. Truly an unforgettable experience!

Needless to say…the hat that was passed, gathered many a peso!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Los Voladores

The pole is on the beach adjacent to the Malecón, directly opposite Senor Frogs nightclub & the flyers perform throughout the day.
Tip generously!!!

Shut Up and Fish!

When you head to one of the greatest deep sea fishing locations in the Pacific…well…

you FISH!

While in Puerto Vallarta, my husband decided that we absolutely needed to book a fishing trip. Checking around on the internet, we had yet to make a decision on a charter and were lying around on the beach, when we were approached by a gentleman offering to take us out on his boat.

After speaking with him a bit about the expedition, he seemed sincere and we decided to book the trip with him. Paying him a $100 deposit, we arranged to meet him the next morning at the nearby marina. A little later, however, I must admit, that the idea that he may have just collected money from us and would not actually show entered my mind! Probably not the savviest decision on my part!

A quick cab ride the next morning, while the sun was rising, deposited us at the marina and thankfully, Hector was there…loading up his boat and waiting for us!

Boarding Hector’s thirty-six foot cabin cruiser, The Miramar, we made ourselves comfortable and were soon motoring out of the harbor into the open water.

As the sun ascended, the calm blue water spread before us like an open road. Half asleep, we suddenly heard the captain shout. Opening our eyes and following his gaze, we spotted spray shooting up from the ocean’s surface. A Bryde’s whale was breaking the surface and we spied it’s slender, bluish-grey body make its way through the water. It surfaced and dove a few times before we were unable to locate it any longer. Such excitement! Not to be outdone, a pod of bottle nose dolphin decided that it would be fun to follow the boat. More fun for us as we watched them from the confines of our craft.

Excitement aside, Hector began placing the fishing rods in their holders at the rear of the boat…five in all…trailing the lures in the dark blue water behind us.

It didn’t take long…the bonitas were biting! A strong, fighting fish, we all took turns struggling to pull them in one by one, even though they were not the largest fish we had ever caught. A few Spanish mackerel even took the bait! Pretty soon, the sun was high, the air was warm and our live well was teeming with a multitude of fish.

After three full hours of fishing, it was finally time to turn and make the return hour-long journey. One of the best parts of the day, however, was yet to come. Unable to take our catch home with us, Hector had brought the necessities to make cerviche. We marveled as he made quick work of cleaning our haul throwing the entrails out into the water…the seagulls swooping in for a free meal.

We watched, mouths watering, as he chopped red onions, white onions, jalapeno, tomatoes, cucumbers and limes. Letting the concoction marinate for a bit, it was soon time to taste the fruit of Hector’s labor…

Muy delicioso! Hector’s cerviche was spicy and probably the best I had ever tasted! SO good that I had to steal his recipe (which I fixed when I got home with some fresh fish we caught in our lake)!

Enjoying our light lunch, we sailed back into the marina. Our fishing adventure had come to an end! Thanking (and tipping) Hector and his captain, we gathered our belongings and disembarked The Miramar, hopping onto a local bus for the short journey back to our hotel.

Though we did not venture out for an entire day’s trip, nor did we catch any larger game fish, the journey out on the Bay of Banderas was a fun and exciting one!

Things to keep in mind…

A valid Mexican Sport Fishing License is required before fishing in Mexican waters. Fishing license are usually included in the booking price (as ours was) or can be purchased from the charter operator.

One rod per person in the water at all times.

It is prohibited to sell the catch.

You need to be at least 250 meters away from swimmers in order to practice sporfishing.

For smaller fish, expect to book a four or five hour charter and remain in the Bay of Banderas. For larger, sport fish, expect to book a full day’s charter and a lot more time in the boat making your way out to the fishing grounds.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Puerto Vallarta Fishing Charters

https://fishingbooker.com/destinations/location/mx/ja/puerto-vallarta?dest_title=Fishing%20Charters&gclid=CKCw2ciq1dMCFddKDQoduJYBsg

The Crown of Puerto Vallarta

In many Mexican cities, you will find in the heart of that city…a square dominated by a church.

Puerto Vallarta is no different, though the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe sits on a smaller square, nestled away between many buildings. Called “one of the most endearing” of the city’s landmarks, it’s wrought-iron crown can be spied almost anywhere throughout the city and one that I absolutely wanted to visit during my visit to this coastal Mexican city.

In 1903, there was a small chapel located in the current location, dedicated to the Virgin Guadalupe, however, foundations were beginning to be laid for the current church. With the arrival of Father Francisco Ayala in 1915, it was suggested that the foundations be expanded for a larger temple than had been planned.

Walls and pillars were finished by 1917, however construction began in earnest in the early 1920’s. Though construction was halted temporarily in 1926, due to the Cristero War, it was resumed in 1930 with the addition of the dome. The entire building was completed in 1940 with the exception of the two towers. The chancel and organ were installed in 1951 and the main tower, topped with the wrought-iron crown, finally in 1952.

Although it has been speculated that the crown was designed to resemble one worn by Empress Carlota of Mexico, this has been found to be untrue. To “crown” the Parish, the current crown was placed on the main tower in 1965 and was designed by José Esteban Ramírez Guareño.

When walking through the city, you can see how beloved this landmark is as it is depicted in photos, shirts, logos and postcards. Many congregate near and in front of the church and you can hear the church bells rung by the sextants 30 and 15 minutes prior to each service. If you are lucky enough to be in Puerto Vallarta during Our Lady of Guadalupe Festival (Feast of Guadalupe, December 1 through December 12), you will notice that the bell ringing and and festivities reach a frenzied level. Processions advance through the streets, including dancing warriors, banners, music, singing and colorful floats depicting scenes of the Virgin and Juan Diego, the Indian peasant that she appeared to in 1531. Thousands of visitors descend upon the city and the streets are lined with vendors selling food, sweets, souvenirs, toys and more.

Take the time to admire the church from the square and other vantage points, however, be sure to take a moment to attend mass or just take a look around between services. The architecture is a mix of various styles…neoclassical, renaissance, baroque. The interior design is a tribute to the original Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Mexico City. Particular attention should be paid the to the idolized image of Our Lady of Guadalupe and a 1945 oil replica by Guadalajaran artist Ignacio Ramirez. Beautiful religious images are painted on wood throughout the structure, carved wooden confessionals stand proud and waiting and the elaborate marble altar are the main focus of the church.

There is much love and devotion in the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe. When visiting Puerto Vallarta, be sure to make it a priority!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Our Lady of Guadalupe

http://parroquiadeguadalupevallarta.com/
Address: Calle Hidalgo 370, Centro, 48300 Puerto Vallarta, Jal., Mexico
Mass Schedule: Monday-Friday, 0730, 1200, 1900. Saturday, 0730, 1200, 1700, 1800, 1930, 2030. Sunday, 0630, 0800, 1000, 1200, 1830, 1930, 2030

Unplanned Puerto Vallarta

Twenty-four years ago, fresh off a visit to a Sandals resort, my husband and I were lured by the call of the all-inclusive resorts of Puerto Vallarta. Looking to enjoy another comprehensive vacation, we set off from our home to Los Angeles and then on to Puerto Vallarta.

A lengthy cab ride deposited us at our resort and we quickly changed into our swimsuits, eager to enjoy the amenities.

“Oh, you would like to book the dive trip for tomorrow, senora? We are sorry, the boat is broken.”

“Oh, you would like to go to the disco tonight, senor? We are sorry, the disco is being renovated and is closed…indefinitely.”

And the list went on. Nothing worked. Nothing was nice. And the food? Don’t get me started. This was definitely not anything that could compare to Sandals.

A phone call was made to our booking agency that afternoon and we were promised a refund after we informed them that we were leaving the next day.

Three months and the threat of a lawsuit finally got our money back. So, whenever someone mentioned going to Puerto Vallarta…it kind of turned my stomach. Nothing against the city itself. That dreadful resort had just ruined it for me. I had the mentality of “been there, did that” and I never really wanted to go back.

Trying to figure out plans for spring break is always tricky for airline employees as we fly on a stand-by basis and my son has limited time-off due to his baseball schedule. I watch flights for days-on-end, trying to decipher which will end up with seats both to and from tropical destinations. And, though we prefer a tropical destinations, I only told my boys that I would get them somewhere…even if it wasn’t their top choice.

Mother nature, however, had another plan. No one would could have prepared for the weather problems encountered that week, causing massive disruptions to flight schedules. Knowing that we would never get out of our hometown to one of my airlines’ hubs, we jumped in a rental car and made the eight hour drive to Atlanta, where I knew there were many flight originations and many customer’s flights that would not make it the next day due to the continuing cancellations.

My hunch was correct. As I watched three destinations the next morning, all with multiple flights and all with availability at hotels that we had earmarked, seats on those flights slowly began to open up. Quickly, we had to make a decision. We would try one of the earliest, leaving us with other options later in the day. My vote was for Punta Cana, but my boys wanted to try…Puerto Vallarta.

Waiting to reserve the hotel, my husband hit the “Book” button only when we had been given our seat assignments and the door to the aircraft was closed. Whew! We had made it onto a flight! But…what was it going to be like?

Four hours later, I was admiring the blue water and surrounding lush mountainsides as we were touching down at Licenciado Gustavo Díaz Ordaz International Airport.

A swift cab ride from the airport had us arriving at the Hilton’s Puerto Vallarta All-Inclusive Resort, not long after our arrival and we were lounging on the beach, cocktails in hand, by two-thirty. Sunny skies and blue water! What more could you ask for?

Needless to say, we absolutely LOVED this resort…everything worked, our room was upgraded, the service was amazing and the food and drinks, divine!

Happy to have a resort that met our expectations, there was one other thing…I wanted to see this place that I never really got to see.

The next morning, I decided that I would head into town. Gathering advice and instruction from the concierge, I hailed a cab with my boys and headed to the center of Puerto Vallarta and its Malecón, the twelve-block boardwalk along the waterfront.

The Malecón was renovated in 2011, making it more pedestrian friendly. The waterfront area is filled with beautiful sculpture, restaurants, bars, museums, free shows, duty-free shopping and souvenir shops. As we made our way south, we took lots of pictures, shopped, made friends and visited Our Lady of Guadaloupe cathedral, the city’s endearing landmark with its wrought-iron crown tower.

The area felt extremely safe and was exceptionally clean. The local people were very friendly and helpful…just beware, they might spot your wristband and tell you that they met you the night before at your resort, just to lure you in. I was stupid enough to fall for that one!

Though we only spent about three hours enjoying this area, we agreed to come back and bring my husband so that he could also see what he had missed.

Counting out twenty-one pesos, we decided to take the city bus back to the hotel. I love traveling the way locals do…my children…not so much. Still, it was a cheap way to travel and was surprising easy.

There was more fun to experience later in Puerto Vallerta, but this was a great beginning! So happy that we gave it another chance!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Puerto Vallarta

http://visitpuertovallarta.com/
http://www3.hilton.com/en/hotels/jalisco/hilton-puerto-vallarta-resort-PVRPVHF/index.html
Getting There/Airport-Hotel: Cabs are regulated and can be arranged prior to exiting the airport. Approximate taxi fare to our hotel, in a van for four people, was approximately $30. Return fare from hotel, was $10.
Getting There/Malecón: From the Hilton (near marina) a cab cost about $5.00 US. The cabdriver will give you an amount in pesos and will also give an amount in US dollars. The bus is about 7 pesos (about $.40 US) and though a bit of a rough ride, very safe and easy to ride.