Category: San Juan

The Compact Chapel

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Deep in the heart of San Juan’s Old Town, there are about a dozen churches scattered throughout. For church fanatics like me, it is a dream come true! Many are decently sized, but there is a compact one, a chapel, built on the city’s ancient stone walls.

One of the most photographed, the tiny Capilla del Santo Cristo de la Salud is located at the south end of Calle del Cristo. Constructed in 1753, the chapel is oft visited by locals and tourists alike and sits beside the Parque de Palomas, a gated park overlooking San Juan Harbor.

Many times, I have visited Old Town and walked past the chapel never to find it open. On this particular Sunday, however, luck was on my side as I learned it is only open on Sundays and particular holy days.

Legend has it that many years ago, there were horse races on Calle del Cristo. One of the riders, Baltazar Montanez, was galloping through the city at such a breakneck speed, he could not stop in time and tumbled over the city wall to his death. To commemorate his demise and prevent a similar occurrence, the chapel was built on the site.

Little did anyone realize how many visitors would descend upon the Chapel of the Holy Christ of Health to pray for cures and miracles. Tens of thousands come to the site, which contains a silver and gold leaf altar surrounded by oil paintings by Puerto Rican artist Jose Campeche and tiny silver milagros, which represent ailing parts of the body. But it is not just those of human form who come…there are hundreds of pigeons who descend upon its roof and front plaza!

The church is cared for by a group of local women, volunteers called “La Hermandad del Santo Cristo de la Salud” and you can care for the pigeons on your visit with birdseed available for purchase!

Truly one of the religious gems of the Old Town!

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Capilla del Santo Cristo de la Salud (Chapel of the Holy Christ of Health)

Puerto Rico Pandemic Style

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Covid 19 was something we didn’t see coming.  It literally stopped us in our tracks.

Being in the travel industry, it prohibited me from doing my job as people were allowed to travel only for essential purposes only.  While I could have remained employed, just getting to and from work proved to be problematic and it was easier to remain home. 

After a year of lockdowns, however, things were starting to open up in the world and people were ready to put their toes in the water once again.  Not able to travel across the pond, as Europe still wasn’t ready to welcome Americans, there were other locations that were eager to crack their doors…with a few restrictions. 

As for me? I was ready to get back out there and return to work!

While many passengers weren’t even ready to sit for eight or nine hours in a metal tube with others whose inoculation status they were unsure of, they were willing to take shorter flights.  Hence, the islands of the Caribbean became their go-to spot as evidenced by overbooked flights even with mandated tests to enter and depart.

Finding myself with a long layover in San Juan, I was a little unsure of what I would experience in the Puerto Rico capital during these first few months. Hearing stories of curfews and numerous restrictions, I packed my bathing suit, suntan lotion some just-in-case meal options and prayed that at least the beaches would remain open.

When I arrived, what I found at my bustling resort were pools and beaches filled to capacity with everyone happy and eager to enjoy the great outdoors and their first, in many cases, vacations in a pandemic world. 

So, what would that mean when I left the resort and ventured into one of my very favorite places, Old San Juan?

Old San Juan, known for its cobblestoned streets, colorful Spanish colonial buildings and massive 16th century forts, bars and restaurants is also a busy cruise port which yields millions of dollars in revenue for the island along with millions of visitors.  With no cruise ships docked at the piers and none of those passengers walking the streets, how was the old town faring?

As I watched the passing architecture from my Uber’s window, I wondered what it would be like making my way through the old town area…would shops, attractions and restaurants be open? My research had shown yes, to a degree, but just how many visitors would I encounter in the normally crowded city and how difficult would it be to wear a mask in the hot, humid climate, even outside, as was mandated?

As my driver dropped me off at Plaza Colon, the first thing I noticed was that many restaurants were not open and the ones that were, were closing fairly early.  There would be none of the casual browsing in the countless shops as each only allowed three persons inside at a time, with lines slinking up the adjacent sidewalks.  But the crowds one normally encounters, were not there.

Wandering the charming narrow streets, I fell into my normal routine of photographing the beauty that surrounded me.  I rather enjoyed not having to wait for a group of tourists to pass so that I could get my photograph and when I finally decided to partake in Happy Hour, there were tables readily available.

I must admit, however, the mask was difficult.  It was extremely hot, aggravated my asthma and I was not accustomed to wearing it for such long durations, especially in the outdoors.

Nevertheless, happy to be out and about, I made my way through the city, enjoying the architecture and city’s highlights.  

Though I realized the impact of not having the number of visitors that the city was usually accustomed, it wasn’t too bad for me. If it weren’t for the masks, I could have been lost in my reacquaintance with the city, enjoying its sights and sounds. However, if I could have forgotten about the mask’s hinderance on my breathing, I think my overall experience would have been hiked up more than a notch. But there was definitely no forgetting…

I was sure to be reminded by some of Old San Juan’s landmarks. 

Plaza de Armas

Yes, this was Puerto Rico…pandemic style! 

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Old San Juan

A Place To Give Thanks

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Long ago, dignitaries walked up the cobblestone street to the San Juan Cathedral to give thanks for their safe journey.

After two days at sea and weary of being confined to the boat,  it felt as if I, too, should head over to San Juan Cathedral to give thanks for finally making it into port!

Catedral San Juan Bautista, or San Juan Cathedral as it is more commonly known, is Puerto Rico’s grandest religious building and certainly one of its most important, being the seat of the Archdiocese of Puerto Rico.  The second oldest church in the Western Hemisphere, it is also the oldest church on U.S. soil and one of the oldest buildings in Puerto Rico.

The original cathedral, built in 1521, while the island was under Spanish rule, was a more simple structure constructed from wood with a thatched roof.  Unable to withstand strong winds, it was demolished by a hurricane and reconstructed in 1540, though what you see today, has evolved over time, especially its Gothic facade, added in the 1800s.

As I entered the cathedral, what I first noticed was that even though it is still quite palatial in appearance, with its ornately detailed ceiling, the cathedral lacked opulence.  Numerous robberies and pillaging over the years of its existence have stripped the church of  most of its valuable assets, but some of the original statues and stained glass windows remain.

As you make your way around the church, however, there are two famous reliquaries to take note of.  The tomb of Juan Ponce de León, the first governor of Puerto Rico, most well known for his search for the Fountain of Youth, has been laid to rest in the cathedral.  Though, the conquistador’s remains were originally interred at the Iglesia de San José, his family’s place of worship, he was moved here in 1912, to commemorate the 400 year anniversary of evangelization.  The white marble tomb, created by Spanish sculptor Miguel Blay, near the church’s transept, is not to be missed.

At the rear of the church, just right of the entrance, look for the glass box containing a most distinguished and long-deceased figure…St. Pius.  St. Pius was was one of the first martyrs killed for his faith during the Roman persecution.  In 1848, Pope Pius VII granted Puerto Rican Bishop Mariano Rodríguez de Olmedo y Valle permission to select a relic from the catacombs in Rome.  Though the relic made a detour to Barcelona to be restored, it finally made its way back to San Juan Bautista in 1868.  Displayed in a glass case, a wax sculpture of the saint’s body encases his skull.  The back of the skull is exposed to show its authenticity.  If you look into the mouth, you can see his real teeth.

Another interesting shrine within the cathedral is dedicated to Blessed Carlos Manuel Rodriguez Santiago, the first Puerto Rican and the first Caribbean-born layperson to be beatified.

While visiting Old San Juan, make sure to make your way down to the Plazuela de Las Monjas and stop into this historic church.  Take a pew and give thanks for your safe voyage to the island in memory of those who have come before you.

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Catedral San Juan Bautista

  • http://catedral-san-juan-bautista.business.site/
  • Address:  151 Calle del Cristo, San Juan, 00902, Puerto Rico
  • Hours:  Open daily, 0800-1600 (Sunday, until 1400).  Mass schedule, Saturday, 1900, Sunday, 0900 and 1100, Weekdays, 0725 and 1215.
  • Admission:  free