church – Snapping The Globe

Around the Hoorn

So often have I visited Amsterdam over the years, that sometimes I need a bit of variety. Looking for a nice little day trip to get me away from the city I stumbled upon an article about the town of Hoorn, a city in the northern part of The Netherlands. The article had stated that Hoorn was one of the “Best Day Trips From Amsterdam”, so I thought, why not? Though it was early Fall, the sun was forecasted to be shining and it was going to be rather warm…the perfect day for some sightseeing!

Taking the train from Amsterdam’s Central Station, I thought I was doing the right thing when I arrived at the station and nabbed an earlier departure. I relaxed in my seat and readied for my hour-long trip. The train’s whistle sounded and the train began its departure from the city, while I began to watch my progress on Google maps. But wait! I was suddenly confused to see that the train heading northwesterly towards Alkmaar. It dawned on me that I made a major mistake by taking the earlier departure…this train was a local, not the express, so there I was, sightseeing in the Netherlands countryside for an extra half hour…a mistake I was sure to not make on my return!

A bit beyond my anticipated arrival, we finally pulled into the Hoorn station and I made my way past canals, flowers and quaint homes, much like I have seen in other parts of the country. I had planned a route that would take me though the center of the city and its churches, to the waterfront and to two of the city’s ancient gates.

The Grote Kerk, of which origins date back to medieval times, was my first stop, but unfortunately, I found it to be under construction and not open to the public. This structure is the third to be built on the site and dates back to 1883. While I was not allowed inside, I was able to admire its tower with its unadorned needle spire and clock from afar. I then continued on to the main square, hoping to visit the Roman Catholic church of Saint Cyriacus and Francis, popularly called the Dome Church.

Geez, were all of the churches undergoing construction???!!! Here, I found the façade of the Dome Church blocked with scaffolding, however, undeterred, I found the entrance and took a peek inside.

The Dome Church, built in 1882, is still in use today and known for its amazing dome, stained glass and renowned artwork. A small chapel greeted me as I entered, however, the interior was partitioned off by a glass wall. While I would have loved to walk through towards the main altar so that I could appreciate the dome, the glass doors were locked. Still, I was grateful that I could see some of its interior from afar.

Upon my departure, I headed toward the main part of town, passing through the Kaasmarkt (main square) and the statue of Jan Pietersz Coen. Though the city’s streets were on the quiet side, I was not surprised to see a few other tourists congregating around this statue and dining in the outdoor restaurants that lined the square.

Making my way towards the waterfront and marina, I found a paved pathway, which was perfect for exercise and just enjoying the beauty of the lake, Markermeer. As I followed the coast towards the small lighthouse at the end of the path, I took in the various artwork that lined the walkway. Designed by various artists, they comprised both modern and rustic elements. My favorite? “The Empty Coat” by Marion Jebbink.

Eventually, my walk ended at the lighthouse, a small, basic wood-beam structure. It was not very picturesque, but it had given my walk a purpose and I had some good views of the Heritage Sailing Center and the Museum of the 20th Century.

Heading back to where I had come, I then skirted the marina on the far side, making my way to the Hoofdtoren.

The Hoofdtoren is a tower named after the nearby jetty Houten Hoofd and was constructed in 1532. While it acted as one of the last defenses of the city and located at the port, it now acts as a popular restaurant. Adjacent to the tower, on the quay wall, is a statue of the Ship Boys of Bontekoe from the book of the same name and it is a nice place to take in the beautiful old boats that fill the harbor.

A little further up the Oude Doelenkade, I crossed the Hoge Bruge, the iron drawbridge that crosses the Oude Haven and headed toward the Oosterkerk. Built in 1616, the church was originally a Roman Catholic temple used by fisherman and boat captains. After the Reformation, it became a Dutch Reformed Church and was known for its beautiful stained-glass windows but also for its organ, built in 1764 by Johann Heinrich Hartmann Batz…the only one that he built in North Holland. Today, decommissioned, the historic structure is a cultural center which hosts activities such as concerts, meetings, weddings and memorials.

Sadly, it wasn’t really my day for churches…I found this one locked up as well…

Finally, crossing the Kleine Oostbrug, I made it to the edge of the city center and the Oosterpoort, the city’s only remaining gate, built in 1578. Located on the Draafsingel, a remnant of the original defensive canal, the Oosterpoort bridge runs under the gate, giving pedestrians and cyclists a pathway across the waterway. While it serves a practical purpose, it definitely gives visitors a look into the city’s history and a place for stunning photos.

As the day was coming to a close, I wound my way back through the city, crossing the pedestrian bridge, Kippebruggetje, enroute to the train station. I had enjoyed my outing in the beautiful little city of Hoorn, but shadows were now creeping in, signaling the day’s end. I wanted to make sure that I caught my train back to Amsterdam.

This time…the right train!

The Noble Tombs of Verona

The Scaliger family (also known as Della Scala or Saligieri) of Verona was an influential one from the 13th to 14th century, ruling during this time period.

The family rose to prominence during the 11th century with their founder, Masstino I della Scala becoming the chief magistrate after the defeat and death of Ezzelino da Romano, a tyrant of Verona, in 1277. Succeeded by his brother Alberto and subsequently by Alberto’s son, Bartolomeo, it was during the latter’s reign that, according to tradition, Romeo and Juliet fell in love and died.

With such prestige in life, it is expected that in death, the members of this family would also be celebrated and entombed extravagantly so that others could pay homage for many centuries.

In many cultures, cemeteries exist so that the living can pay their respects to the dead. The Italian one is no exception, however, while some gravesites that Americans are familiar with are simple headstones, prominent families in Italy are entombed in elaborate mausoleums. These mausoleums of the Scaligeri are fine examples of the artistic talents put to use to show the wealth and power that the family held.

In Verona, the Scaliger tombs stand in the courtyard of the Church of Santa Maria Antica, which dates to 1185. While I was not sure what I was enroute to see, after spotting it on Google Maps a few blocks from Juliet’s House, it was certainly a landmark that I was glad that I had sought out. To say that the Scaliger tombs are elaborate would be an understatement!

Enclosed by an iron fence, it is easy for passersby to examine the tombs from afar. I assure you, however, it is worth the minimal entrance fee to enter the premises and see these monumental burial chambers up close and personal.

*Entrance to the Scaligeri Tombs (doorway, left) and Santa Maria Antica (doorway, right)*

Adjacent to the Piazza dei Signori, the historic central square of Verona’s Città Antica and other major attractions, the memorials invite visitors to understand the idea of the wealth and power of the Lords of Verona. While the funerary monuments are not plentiful, they are indeed breathtaking examples of Gothic art.

A handout, given to me by caretakers who also accepted my entrance fee, directed me around the small courtyard and I inspected each of the tombs which are located on the ground or on raised floors.

The tomb of Cangrande I Della Scala is placed above the portal of the church and is the first of the tombs that was built in the 14th century by his own will. The tomb is comprised of a tabernacle supported by embellished dogs and on the lid is the reclining statue of the deceased. The sides are decorated and on the top of the canopy, there is a copy of the equestrian statue of Cangrande I (the original is kept in the Castelvecchio Museum along with the funerary equipment).

The ark of Mastino II, which was begun in 1345, had many design changes over the years. Originally painted and gilded, it is surrounded by a gate at the corners of which there are four statues of the Virtues. On the lid, there is a statue of Mastino II lying down and being watched over by two angels. There is an equestrian statue of Mastino II, a copy, of which the original being located in the Castelvecchio clock tower.

The ark of Cansignorio, which dates back to 1375, is the most elaborately decorated. Designed by Bonino da Campione, it depicts sculptures of warrior saints, characters from the Gospels, Virtues and Apostles and a large equestrian statue of Cansignorio.

The sarcophagus of Albert I is a richly carved monument, constructed in 1301.

The tomb of Mastino I is the oldest.

The hanging ark by Giovanni della Scala is a work by Andriolo de Santi. It was finished in 1359 at the church of S. Fermo Maggiore, where it remained until 1400.

This sarcophogi is the most ornamented in the lot. It was possibly commissioned by Alberto I in 1300 and might have been the first burial site for Cangrande.

**Possibly the first burial site of Cangrande**

After my inspection of the tombs was complete, I found the Church of Santa Maria Antica to be open on this day. This small church was originally linked with a convent founded in 744-745. In the 1200s, it became the private chapel of the Scaligeri family who then erected their famous sepulchre alongside the structure.

Wandering in, I donned a shoulder covering given to me by one of the volunteers. The modest sanctuary was dimly lit and quiet and it didn’t appear that photographs were appreciated by the woman keeping a sharp eye on the visitors. While I was able to capture a couple undetected, as I was inspecting the 14th century frescoes in the central nave, I took a moment to nod my head in prayer before departing.

There were many places that I visited on my brief trip to Verona. It was interesting to realize, in retrospect, that so many of the places I had visited, had connections to the others. The Castelvecchio Museum contained some of original pieces of the Scaligeri tombs, which I had unknowingly inspected on my visit there earlier in the day, and later on, I had visited San Fermo Maggiore church which had held the hanging ark by Giovanni della Scala for many years. I had not known all of this prior to my visit, but only later, when doing some research.

While not a lengthy visit, take a few minutes to visit the Scaligeri tombs to comprehend the beauty and history of these funerary monuments and seek out their significance in the other landmarks of Verona.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Scaliger Tombs

Address: Via San M. Antica 1, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: unknown
Admission: €3 (unverified)

Vibrant Verona

While visiting Venice is an amazing experience, after having been there many times, one gets the itch to see other cities in the region. Having already taken the train to Padua a few years prior, I was planning on seeing some other nearby cities. On this particular day, however, realizing that we had arrived a little earlier than normal, I decided to venture out a little further…to Verona.

Verona is one of the main tourist destinations in northern Italy, situated on the Adige River and known as the setting for two of William Shakespeare’s plays, Romeo and Juliet and The Two Gentlemen of Verona. Because of its artistic heritage and opera season staged in its Roman amphitheater, it attracts millions of visitors each year.

Ruled by the della Scala family during the 13th and 14th century, the city was extremely prosperous during their reign and this wealth can be spied throughout its boundaries today; in its monuments, walls and architecture and more. While I was aware that many tourists head straight to Juliet’s House and Museum, one of the most famous places in the city, I decided to do this as well, but also to see the other aspects that make this UNESCO World Heritage Site so special.

After the hour and ten minute train ride, I quickly ducked into a station shop to purchase a face mask for the return trip or for any other attraction which might require it. During my train ride, I had realized that KN95 face masks were still required on public transportation when conductors removed five British travelers at the stop prior to Verona’s Porta Nuova station. While I had a regular surgical mask, I realized that it was not enough and was thankful that I went unnoticed.

Thankful that crisis had been averted, I set out to walk to the city center, first stopping at the Porta Nuova (https://snappingtheglobe.com/?p=30718), the city’s old gate. Stopping for a few photos, I then continued on Corso Porta Nuova past Giardini Pradaval and its sculptures and statues, the Lapidary Museum Maffeiano and I Portoni della Bra the historic gate that once divided the city from the countryside and connects the Porta Nuova railway station to Piazza Bra. While I felt welcomed by the city gate Porta Nuova, it was when I walked through the arches of I Portoni della Bra that I felt as though I was truly entering the city and readied myself for the city’s beauty.

Having planned to see the amphitheater, I decided to take a detour and walk toward the river and the Castelvecchio Museum, since its opening hours were fewer. Making my way across its intimidating drawbridge into the courtyard, I then headed inside to make my way through its major Italian art collections distributed over twenty-nine rooms. Sculpture, paintings, ancient weapons, ceramics, goldsmiths, miniatures and ancient city bells were artfully displayed throughout the castle which dates back to the mid 1300s. While it was built as a residence for the della Scala family, it was mainly used for the military defense of the city and that is evident by its towering walls and battlements.

While I enjoyed my walk through the castle’s interior, what I really wanted to do was investigate the courtyards, the battlements and the clock tower. Climbing up the stairway, I made my way first to the rear of the castle and was rewarded with stunning views of the river and the Scaligero Bridge. It was a beautiful day and being out on the walls was the perfect place to be! Some of the passageways were a bit narrow but easy to navigate and to reach the seven towers. From the front of the castle, the views of the city, the large courtyard, the clock tower and the small courtyard beneath the tower were so stunning that I could have stayed up there all day. Finally, I passed through the adjacent walkway to the bridge and took a quick stroll across so that I could say “I did”.

If I was going to see everything, however, it was time to move on and I decided to continue my path along the Corso Cavour, which follows the river. A short stroll later, I passed the Arco dei Gavi, a massive, ancient white-marble arch which was was used as a gate in the walls during the Middle Ages. During the Napoleonic rule, French engineers demolished it and its ruins were moved to a square and then to the arena. In 1932, the arch was reconstructed, under Mussolini’s rule, in its current spot next to the Castelvecchio, very near its original location.

A little further down the road, I happened upon the Basilica di San Lorenzo. As I always make time for a church, I spent a few moments walking through this 12th structure. Built in the Romanesque style on the remains of a 5th or 6th century paleo-Christian building, using some of the original materials, it was interesting to see the two different types of building materials stemming from the different phases of construction…alternating brick and stone which gives the interior a striking pattern of strips in the columns and the walls and apse. Listening in to a tour guide’s spiel, I also learned that a unique feature is the presence of the women’s galleries, still intact and open onto three sides. Though my stop was a quick one, I was glad to see this beautiful church.

Near the Ponte della Vittoria, I decided to move into the city center as there was more to see in that domain. A few minutes later, I passed under the impressive Porta Borsari, the arched limestone gate, which dates back to the 1st century and served as the main entrance to the city.

There were many more churches, including the Church of St. Eufemia; some open, some closed for the afternoon, and as I spied many balconies, I thought of Juliet’s House, which I had planned to visit…whenever I got there! But of course, there was so much to see along the way!

Glancing at my watch, I decided to snatch a few moments at the Church of San Giovanni in Foro. A minor church, it was built on what was the main Roman road. Badly damaged by fire in 1172, while much of Verona was destroyed, its restoration in the early 1900s led to the discovery that Roman walls had been incorporated into the external walls of the church. It was small and dimly lit, but its beautiful mosaics, stone walls and ancient paintings made me glad that I had stumbled upon this gem.

Continuing on, I finally made my way to the beautiful Piazza delle Erbe, which was once the center of the city’s political and economic life. There were many market stalls hawking souvenirs and food, but there were lots of statues, fountains and other landmarks to see. More importantly, the square is surrounded by many buildings and monuments that have marked the history of Verona…City Hall, Lamberti Tower, the Houses of Mazzanti, Maffei Palace, the Gardello Tower and the Casa dei Mercanti (Merchant’s House). What I loved most, however, was the ancient fountain (circa 1368) with its roman statue, Madonna Verona, built by Bonino da Campione, which stands proudly in the center of the square and welcomes visitors to investigate its history.

My goodness…what wasn’t there to see? I love everything about Rome and its “in your face architecture”, but the simplicity of Verona with the minor details that begged you to slow down and savor it was unlike anything I had ever experienced in Italy. Everywhere I laid my eyes, there was stunning construction, architectural details on every building, including balconies upon which other Italian ladies, like the fictional Juliet, may have stood, conversing down to their young paramours.

Finding my way to the Scaliger Tombs, I decided that I needed to enter the premises so that I could see these stunning tombs at close range. After paying my entrance fee, I was given a handout to guide me through the small courtyard. Each of the elaborate tombs were unique and some just outright ostentatious. While passerby could get a glimpse through the iron bars of all of the tombs, I thought it much better to see their beauty unobstructed.

These five funerary monuments celebrate the Scaliger family who ruled in Verona from the 13th to the late 14th century. Located in a wrought-iron fenced enclosure of the church of Santa Maria Antica, these Gothic tombs were constructed for the wealthy members of the noble Scaliger dynasty who ruled as the Lords of Verona; Cangrande I, Mastino II, Cansignorio, Alberto II and Giovanni.

The church was open and I was given a covering for my shoulders as I entered. The modest sanctuary was dimly lit and quiet and it didn’t appear that photographs were appreciated by the woman keeping a sharp eye on the visitors. While I was able to capture a couple undetected, as I was inspecting the 14th century frescoes in the central nave, I took a moment to nod my head in prayer before leaving.

Finally, next on the list was the famed Juliet’s House, a short walk away. As expected, after walking through the short corridor to the courtyard, I found it extremely crowded with other visitors. Everyone was jockeying for position and waiting for their chance to pose with the bronze statue of Juliet. Noting the balcony above, and those also posing there for photographs, I figured out which door to enter to pay my admission.

Inside, there were statues paying homage to Shakespeare, another bronze statue of Juliet, period furniture and the bed and Renaissance costumes from Franco Zeffirelli’s 1968 film version of Romeo and Juliet. The wooden floors and artfully decorated ceilings were extremely cozy, although very roomy, depicting the wealth of the Capello family (from which the name Capulet was derived). Eventually, I was able to step out onto the balcony and also pose for a photo, but I was interested to find that even though the house dates back to 13th century, the balcony was only added during the 20th century.

On my way out, I noticed the red mailbox, which collects the letters “to Juliet” from visitors. Remembering the 2010 movie Letters to Juliet, I smiled at the messages visible in the small window in the center, glancing around, wondering where the women who volunteer to answer them were.

Just up the road, I happened upon Porta Leoni, the ancient gate that was built during the Roman Republic and features a double façade and two towers. Adjacent, below the street level are amazing Roman excavations.

The afternoon was dwindling away and although I had seen so much during my afternoon visit to Verona, I still wanted to see the amphitheater. Deciding to walk along the river in order to make navigation back to Corso Porta Nuova a little easier, I was stopped in my tracks by an imposing church on the corner.

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore.

Oh, I was here and I couldn’t resist, so I went in, hoping I had enough time for everything else on my list…namely the amphitheater. The church was still open and I paid my admission, following the handout offered to me, which guided me to both the Upper and Lower churches.

Starting with the Lower church, I traversed the ancient staircase to reach the first and oldest cloister of the complex. Here, I marveled at the decorated ribbed vaults and frescoed columns which divided the space. Of particular note was the early 14th century fresco depicting the Virgin seated on a throne with baby Jesus and a 12th century fresco of the Baptism of Jesus. There is a tombstone of jurist Antonio Pelacani, who died in 1327, showing him teaching his students and another of scholar Master Omobono, built in 1330. In the presbytery, there is a wooden crucifix from the 14th century and in the right transept, the stone upon which saints Fermo and Rustico were beheaded.

Back upstairs in the Upper church, I found it to be a massive and towering space. Again, crumbling frescoes decorated the walls and a large wooden door was topped with a fresco of the Crucifixion of Christ. The single nave church contained five apses and of particular interest was the Della Torre altar, from the 18th century, Our Lady’s Chapel (1613), which contains a some significant paintings and the presbytery with its marble altar, created by Schiavi, on which the relics of Saints Fermo and Rustico are kept.

There were many tourists here and there was so much to see in the Upper Church that I spent much more time here than I had anticipated. As I finally exited San Fermo, I regained my routing along the river to head back toward the center of the city where the amphitheater was located. Taking much longer than I had anticipated, along with the heat of the afternoon slowing me down, I realized that I had maybe need to check the train schedule. I was still a ways from the train station and just over an hour away from Venice. As I realized that if I didn’t make the next train, I would be arriving into the Mestre station pretty late and I still needed to keep in mind dinner and the 20 minute walk back to my hotel. Upper ChurchThere were many tourists here and there was so much to see in the Upper Church that I spent much more time here than I had anticipated. As I finally exited San Fermo, I regained my routing along the river to head back toward the center of the city where the amphitheater was located. Taking much longer than I had anticipated, along with the heat of the afternoon slowing me down, I realized that I had maybe need to check the train schedule. I was still a ways from the train station and just over an hour away from Venice. As I realized that if I didn’t make the next train, I would be arriving into the Mestre station pretty late and I still needed to keep in mind dinner and the 20 minute walk back to my hotel.

Sadly, I had saved the amphitheater for last and it was not meant to be.

This time…

With so much to see in Verona, I was impressed with what I had undertaken and experience in a single afternoon. As there is much more enjoy in Verona, I realized that I would definitely return in the near future.

Pulling my KN95 mask from my bag…it was time to make that train.

.For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Castelvecchio Museum

https://museodicastelvecchio.comune.verona.it/nqcontent.cfm?a_id=42545
Address: Corso Castelvecchio, 2, Verona, Italy
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 1000 to1800. Last entrance at 1715. Closed Mondays, December 24, January 1.
Admission: Adults, €6.00 (+ €.60 online presale), Children (ages 8-14 years), €1.00 (+€.10 online presale). Free admission for residents of 65 years in the Municipality of Verona, persons with disabilities and their companion, children up to 7 years, holders of the VeronaCard.

Arco dei Gavi

https://www.verona.in/verona/what-to-see/details/arco-dei-gavi
Address: Corso Cavour, 2, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Basilica di San Lorenzo

https://verona.com/it/verona/chiesa-di-san-lorenzo/
- Address: Corso Cavour, 28, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
- Hours: 0900-1200 and 1500-1700
  - Admission: free

Porta Borsari

Address: Corso Porta Borsari, 57A, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Chiesa di San Giovanni in Foro

Address: Corso Porta Borsari, 20, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: hours unknown
Admission: free

Piazza delle Erbe

https://verona.com/en/verona/piazza-delle-erbe/
Address: Piazza delle Erbe, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 0730-2030, daily
Admission: free

Scaliger Tombs

Address: Via San M. Antica 1, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: unknown
Admission: €3 (unverified)

Juliet’s House

https://verona.com/en/verona/casa-di-giulietta/
Address: Via Cappello, 23, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 0900-1900, daily
Admission: Adults, €6

Porta Leoni

Address: Via Leoni, 37100 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 24 hours daily
Admission: free

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore

https://www.chieseverona.it/it/le-chiese/la-chiesa-di-san-fermo
Address: Corte S. Elena, Piazza Duomo 35, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: Monday to Friday, 1100-1800, Saturday, 0930-1800, Sunday, 1300-1800
Admission: Single entry €4. Entry to four churches, San Fermo, San Zeno, Cathedral Complex and Santa Anastasia, Basilica of San Zeno, the Cathedral Complex, the Basilica of Santa Anastasia, €8

Markets and Ancient Ports

For many years, it seemed like I visited Tel Aviv almost every month. Over time, however, I have decided to work shorter flights which suit my schedule a little bit better by not having the two night flights that Tel Aviv has.

When someone reached out to me in April, however, and wanted to swap two of my Rome trips for her Tel Aviv, it benefited me to take the swap and have the weekend that I was supposed to work off. Sounded like a good idea…and it was! I was excited to revisit the Mediterranean city to see some favorites and discover some new things!

Despite it being a holiday when we arrived, and finding everything closed, the next day was business as usual. After grabbing some falafel at my favorite place, I decided that I was going to get a lot of steps in, first heading to the Carmel Market.

The largest market in Tel Aviv was first opened in 1920, approximately eleven years after the establishment of the city. Located on one street which runs south from the junction of King George Street, Allenby and Sheinkin Street to the Carmelit Bus depot, it always hosts a bustling crowd, especially on Thursdays and Fridays, when locals are making their purchases for their family meals. Visitors should not be intimidated by the locals going about their business as the market also attracts tourists wishing to experience the sights, sounds and of course smells of the freshest fruit and vegetables, spices and other delectables in addition to those hoping to find unique souvenirs and clothing. I have always loved coming here, usually to purchase my olive oil but just for the overall experience!

On this day, however, I realized my mistake. Wanting to take a walk to the Old City of Jaffa, I could not purchase my olive oil as I would have to backtrack to my hotel to drop it off or carry the heavy purchase on this journey. Assuming I would have time later to return, I proceeded on to the second leg of my adventure.

To get to the Old City of Jaffa, it is about a thirty-seven minute walk and I decided that I would do it along the waterfront to enjoy the sights and smells of the sea. It was a beautiful April day and I was so thankful to be able to have the time to enjoy the lovely sunshine. It wasn’t long before I passed Charles Clore Park and the Haetzel Betashach Museum which focuses on the history of Etzel, the Hebrew acronym for the National Military Organization (one of the military groups who led the struggle for Israel’s independence). Only pausing to take a few photos of the outside of the museum, I continued on my way quickly arriving at landmark which marks the entrance to the ancient port city.

The Jaffa Clocktower.

Standing in the middle of the north end of Yefet Street, the limestone tower incorporates two clocks and a plaque commemorating the Israelis killed in the battle for the town in the 1948 Arab-Israeli War. It is one of seven clock towers built in Ottoman Palestine…only one of six that remain.

There was plenty of unique art and architecture to see along the way, but I was determined to make my way through the HaMuze’on Garden, past the Jaffa Theatre and to the Kdumim Visitor Center Square. St. Peter’s Church was on my list, however, I arrived to realize that I was between opening hours. Since it would require waiting for its reopening in a couple of hours, I decided to spend my time re-exploring the old port and seeking out some things in the nearby area.

Walking through the square, I made my way to the stairs leading through the garden and to the Wishing Bridge. I remember seeing this bridge a long time ago, but I had forgotten its meaning. I read the sign, “An ancient legend holds that anyone boarding the bridge holds the zodiac sign and looks at the sea – their wish will come true.” Naturally, I had lots of wishes, so I walked along the wooden walkway, studying each of the aged bronze zodiac signs that wrapped around its rails. Placing my hand on the Lion, Leo, I looked out to the sea and made my wish…wishes…hopefully it counted for more than one!

*The Wishing Brid*ge (as viewed from below)

Walking through the gardens, I appreciated the lush greenery, beautiful flora and sculptural works that filled the landscape. Eventually, I found the other notable item that I had come to see. The replica of ancient Egyptian Ramesses II gate. Without knowing the background, it seems rather unremarkable (and too new), but as I stood there taking photos, a gentleman asked me me what I knew of it. Such began a conversation with a local tour guide Haim Tamari. Mr. Tamari informed me that this replica supplants the original 13th century gate that was discovered in this spot and dates from the period of the rule of Ramesses II. The inscription on one of the gates includes on of the many honorific titles of Ramesses II. Work had recently been completed on the paved and hardscaped area around the gate.

Mr. Tamari and I walked together back to the square as the hour was approaching of the opening of the church. We talked of the history of the area and of my past visits to many parts of the country. Realizing that I was expecting a visit to St. Peter’s he continued on with his dialogue, expanding to the history of the church. He explained that this church was completed in 1894 but was preceded by another from the 16th century which was constructed as a church and inn for pilgrims on the ruins of an earlier temple. It was constructed here because it was in Jaffa that St. Peter raised Tabitha (one of Jesus’ disciples) from the dead (Acts of the Apostles, Acts 9:36-43, Acts 10:1-4) and it is dedicated to him. The church, facing west toward the sea, instead of east (like most churches) was situated on a hill serving as a beacon to pilgrims, signaling that the Holy Land was near.

Thankful that I now had a knowledgeable contact for future tours, I thanked him for sharing his company, conviviality and knowledge. He continued on to an appointment, bidding me a farewell and I took a seat outside the church’s iron gates, tall, brick façade and towering bell tower.

At three o’clock, the doors were opened and I and others who had also congregated at its opening, were ushered inside. As I made my way past each of the side altars, I took in the overall appearance of the church, with its dominant pastel-colored vaulted ceiling, stained glass and ochre marble walls. Taking a seat in one of the pews, I bent my head in prayer only to be distracted and then mesmerized by the pulpit, carved in the shape of a tree. As a tour group made their way inside, I listened as their leader spoke of its history, including an interesting tidbit about Napoleon, who was said to have lived in one of rooms of St. Louis’ citadel just outside and to the right of the sacristy while he was at St. Peter’s in 1799 during the French campaign in Egypt and Syria.

Finally, my visit to St. Peter’s complete, I exited and made my way through the stairways, alleyways and tunnels of Jaffa toward its port. Walking along the water’s edge, I passed cafes, studios, restaurants and mosques, reminding me that this was a city of more than one faith.

*The Sea Mosque (where the city’s Muslim sailors and fisherman prayed before going to sea)*

After such a long day, it was time to start the long walk back to my hotel. Arriving almost an hour later, with aching feet, I realized that it was time to grab that nap for the dreaded overnight flight home. Reflecting on my cultural and historically filled day, I realized that I had been missing out on the amazing opportunities that Tel Aviv affords for the lack of sleep. Yes, despite the nap I was getting ready to take, it was going to be a long night home…but definitely worth it.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe, and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Carmel Market

https://www.touristisrael.com › carmel-market-tel-aviv › 4433
Address: HaCarmel Street 48, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel
Hours: Summer, Sunday-Thursday, 0700-evening (closing begins around 1800), Friday, 0700-afternoon (closing begins two hours before Shabbat comes in). Winter, Sunday-Thursday, 0700-evening (closing begins around 1600), Friday, 0700-afternoon (two hours before Shabbat comes in).
Admission: free

Jaffa Clocktower

https://www.jaffaclocktower.com/
Address: Yefet Street 14, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

St. Peter’s Church

https://stpetersjaffa.com/
Address: Tel-Aviv-Yafo, Israel, 1
Hours: Daily, 0900-1145 and 1500-1700
Admission: free

Adventures in New Mexico Part 3-The Cat’s Meow

What’s the saying…when something is very appealing?

It’s the Cat’s Meow!

With all there is experience in New Mexico, I can say that phrase it is most appropriate.

After the long drive to Chaco Canyon, you would thing that we would have wanted to sleep in on the next morning. No way! There was too much to see and do and then, we needed to get to Santa Fe!

Rising early, we packed up, check out and headed to Petroglyph National Monument, one of the largest petroglyph sites in North America. Since there are four different trail systems, we chose the trail that appeared to offer the most petroglyph viewing, Piedras Marcadas Canyon. Parking in the adjacent lot, we grabbed out water and headed out onto the trail.

*Petroglyph National Monument, Piedras Marcadas Canyon Trail*

The path was easy and flat, marked with guide lines on either side, to keep hikers off of the fragile desert growth. Before long, we found ourselves alongside the rocky hills that arose from the desert floor. It took a few moments to decipher what we were supposed to be looking for but we soon began to spot the images carved into the rocks.

The petroglyphs we spied were created by the ancestors of modern Pueblo people as far back as the year 1300, by carefully removing the desert varnish with hand-held stone tools to expose the lighter color of the basalt’s interior. Centuries of weathering cause the older petroglyphs to oxidize and darken. As we now knew what to look for, it soon became easier to spot the various human figures, animals and geometric designs along the one and a half mile route.

*Roadrunner petroglyph and real roadrunner perched on the rocks*

All in all, we spent about an hour and a half out and about before completing the circuit. Deciding that there was not enough time to do another trail, we moved on.

Next up was Old Town Albuquerque.

The downtown area is comprised of approximately 150 individually owned and operated businesses, situated around the main plaza, the square and birthplace of the city in 1706. This plaza reminded me so much of the ones found in many Latin American countries with numerous people lounging on the benches around the gazebo. With so many shops, restaurants and galleries in the immediate area, we took our time doing a little shopping, grabbing a bite to eat and taking lots of photos.

One of the places I wanted to see most was San Felipe de Neri Catholic Church, one of the oldest surviving buildings in the city and the only building in Old Town dating back to the Spanish colonial period. The current church replaced the original which collapsed during the winter of 1972. I would imagine the interior exhibited European qualities, but sadly it nor the museum were not open during our visit.

San Felipe de Neri Catholic Church

Keeping an eye on the clock as we were heading to Santa Fe, we found one more place of interest, the Breaking Bad Store ABQ. Although I had no knowledge of the television series, I thought that maybe there would be some interesting souvenirs for my sons. What we discovered, however, was that this was not only a store, but a small museum of sorts dedicated to the series Breaking Bad and its follow up, Better Call Saul. While most of it didn’t resound with me, it meant a lot for my son to see mementos and set props from the show. Recently, when my husband and I finally watched all five seasons of the series, it was fun to pull out the photos and understand what all of it meant. My favorite photo? Me dressed in the Los Pollos Hermanos uniform posed behind the restaurant counter!

With our time in Albuquerque coming to a close, we headed out to the highway, making our way to Santa Fe.

When my son had mentioned to his friends that we would be visiting New Mexico, the unanimous suggestion was to visit a place with a very strange name…Meow Wolf.

Meow Wolf, a relatively new experience in Santa Fe (established in 2016) is one of three similar interactive experiences located in the United States. Along with the other two, in Denver and Las Vegas, the explorable art encounter beckons visitors to explore rooms of immersive art. Santa Fe’s version, entitled House of Eternal Return offers 70 rooms which I could only describe as a mix between an art exhibit, escape room, a fun house and a maze.

As we parked, we glimpsed what we thought we might experience with its giant metal spider, robot and of course, wolf, in the parking lot! Although we had not purchased tickets prior to our arrival, we learned that we were lucky since it was a weekday that we were able to gain entry, not usual on busy weekends.

We began our explorations in the front part of the House, trying to read every piece of paper and attempting to decipher clues. There was a strangely dressed man standing in the stairway talking about missing children and we deduced that children from the storyline were missing. We also heard other speaking about finding hamsters. We did discover a few hidden in various places, but then we never quite understood what to do with this information.

Finally, we just decided to have fun and explore all the nooks and crannies. Once we relaxed about the whole affair, it was a great deal of fun just enjoying the unique and unusual artistry.

It was great fun to discover hidden passageways in refrigerators, fireplaces closets and clothes dryers. After exploring both floors of the house, we discovered in the living room a fish tank on a shelf and then a tunnel through the fireplace which led to a life size fish tank which we could walk through! This led to other parts of the exhibit where we encountered a giant neon dinosaur skeleton whose bones made music when you hit upon them, a forest with giant mushrooms and creatures that appeared to be out of the book Where the Wild Things Are, the crazy clown room decorated with recycled bottle caps, cans, compact discs and clown videos, a Chinatown alleyway and the “black and white room” complete with a monster under the sink! There was abstract art and abstract rooms, interactive games hidden away in dark corners and an EDM music room. There was a band playing in the back and walkways overlooking their stage. Everything was dark and bright at the same time and neon and black lighting was everywhere!

It is one of the hardest things to explain and one of the most unique places I have ever visited! I will definitely have to visit the ones in Denver and Las Vegas which are differently themed.

We realized that if this was our introduction to Santa Fe, we were in for a treat! Meow Wolf was definitely the Cat’s Meow or maybe you could say, the “Wolf’s Meow”!

For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Petroglyph National Monument

https://www.nps.gov/petr/index.htm
Address: Visitor’s Center, 6510 Western Trail, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Boca Negra Canyon, Atrisco Drive, NW, Albuquerque, NM 87120, Rinconada Canyon, 7601 St. Josephs Avenue, Albuquerque, NM 87120, 87114 Unnamed Cul de Sac, Albuquerque, NM 87120, Piedras Marcadas,
Address: Visitor’s Center, 6510 Western Trail, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Boca Negra Canyon, Atrisco Drive, NW, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Rinconada Canyon, 7601 St. Josephs Avenue, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Piedras Marcadas Canyon, 87114 Unnamed Cul de Sac, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Volcanoes Day Use Area, Western Trail NW, Albuquerque, NM 87120.
Hours: Boca Negra Canyon, 0830-1630. Rinconada Canyon 0800-1700. Piedras Marcadas Canyon, Sunrise to Sunset. Volcanoes Day Use Area, 0900-1700.
Admission: free

Old Town Albuquerque

https://www.albuquerqueoldtown.com/
Address: Old Town Road NW, Albuquerque, NM 87104
Hours: Most businesses open Monday-Saturday, 1000-2000, Sunday, 1100-1900. Most restaurants seat until 2100.
Admission: free

San Felipe de Neri Catholic Church

https://sanfelipedeneri.org/
Address: 2005 North Plaza NW, Albuquerque, NM 87104
Hours: 0900-1600, daily (unverified). Gift shop and museum, open from 1000-1630. Museum may not be open due to lack of docents.
Admission: free

The Breaking Bad Store ABQ

https://www.breakingbadstoreabq.com/
Address: 2047 South Plaza Street Northwest, Albuquerque, NM 87104
Hours: 1000-1700, daily. Closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas Day, New Years Day.
Admission: free

Meow Wolf Santa Fe

https://meowwolf.com/visit/santa-fe
Address: 1352 Rufina Circle, Santa Fe, NM 87507
Hours: Sunday, Monday and Thursday, 100-2000, Friday and Saturday, 1000-2200. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
Admission: Adults (ages 14 and up), $35, Children (ages 4-13), $20, Children (under 3), free, Seniors (ages 65 and up), $25, Military, $25.

Metro de Chateau

At one end of the Paris metro yellow line is La Defense, the other, Chateau de Vincennes.

The location of my work hotel is somewhere in between and I’ve visited La Defense’s Christmas market a few years ago, but never gave much thought to the other end of the line. La Defense is a business district, I just naturally assumed Chateau de Vincennes metro stop was named after the area, not an actual Château. In actuality, I was partly correct.

The area of Vincennes was formed in the late 18th century, when two village communities located north of the chateau joined together…the hamlet of La Pissotte, which was built towards the end of the 13th century and Basse-Coura subdivision created under Charles V originally used to house royal servants. In 1829, the territory was enlarged at the expense of Fontenay-sous-Bois and Montreuil. Vincennes now covers an area of some 192 hectares and has almost 50,000 inhabitants. It is one of the most densely populated towns in France.

But, there really is a chateau in Vincennes!

Setting out shortly after my arrival into Paris, I was excited at the prospect of seeing this chateau in Vincennes that this metro stop was named for.

Exiting the metro, I discovered massive walls and an imposing gate a short distance away on the Avenue de Paris. Complete with a draw bridge spanning a moat surrounding the premises, I was reminded of its long history and its need for defense during tumultuous times.

Chateau de Vincennes entrance

Built between 1361 and 1369, this preferred residence of the French Kings was known for its keep and for its beautiful chapel, Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes, although prior monarchs used the area during the century before construction commenced.

Passing through the gates, I glanced up at the bell tower and clock, the very first public clock in France (although now a reproduction with its original kept in Saint Chappelle). A little further, I walked into a large compound with buildings lining the walkway to both my left and right, and here, I discovered the ticket office. Although I had purchased my ticket prior to my arrival, I stopped inside to ensure that everything was in order and to confirm what my entry fee covered. Handed a map, I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to visit not only the Keep and the Chapel, but also the Queen’s Pavilion.

*Chateau de Vincennes inner courtyards and buildings*

The Keep, or “donjon” seemed to be the perfect place to start my explorations. This fortified central tower, the tallest in Europe at the time, was built during the 14th century. Initiated by King Philippe VI in 1340, later his son Jean II of France and subsequently, his son, the future Charles V, the fortress with high walls, towers and a keep were completed by 1370. Charles V moved into the Keep with some construction still underway. As I moved through the massive structure with its 52 meter tower in the center, I read through the signage describing each of the areas’ usage.

The ground floor of the Keep has wells and the remains of a large fireplace, probably originally used by royal servants. It was largely rebuilt when the building was used as a prison.

*View of Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes and King and Queen Pavilions from the Keep*

The first floor contained the meeting hall of the Council of the King, and was also used when needed for bedchambers of the Queen and others close to the King. The walls were originally covered with oak panels, some of which are still in place.

The second floor was occupied by the bedchamber of the King, and has decorations added by Charles V of France when he rebuilt it from 1367–38. The walls were originally covered with oak panels, and the vaulted ceiling was decorated with sculpted keystones and consoles and painted flour-de-Lys and the coat-of-arms of the King, against a blue background, still visible. A small oratory is set into the north wall, though its wood paneling has disappeared.

The third floor has the same plan as the second, but lacks the ornate decoration of the royal floor. It was probably used by important guests of the King.

The fourth, fifth and sixth floors, which lack ornament, were probably used by domestic servants or soldiers. They were also used to store munitions for the weapons placed at the windows of the fourth floor and on the terraces of tower of latrines and the main body of the keep. The sixth floor has no windows and a ceiling only two meters high, and a single entrance. Beginning in 1752, the upper floors were used primarily as prison cells. The bars in the windows and doors date from that period. The extensive and elaborate graffiti still found on the walls on the upper floors also dates from the 17th and 18th century.

After Charles death, it remained a place of refuge for future kings, eventually converting to a prison and finally, a military installment. In fact, the most interesting portions of the keep were one of the areas used for the restraint of prisoners. In this area, I spotted many signatures etched onto the walls and the remains of murals painted on the walls by these prisoners, the most beautiful being those completed by Monseigneur Boulogne, confessor of Napoleon I, imprisoned on his orders. This room was also used to later keep the Comte de Mirabeau, who spent three years imprisoned at Vincennes where he wrote about the abuses of the royal warrant. Other famous prisoners included Denis Diderot (1713-1784), François-Vincent Raspail (1794-1878), the Marquis de Sade (1777-1784).

My tour of the Keep complete, I headed across to Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes. Having been to the beautiful chapel of Sainte Chapelle in Paris’ Ile de Cite, I was curious to see how they would compare.

Conceived by Charles V as his dream to add an exceptional religious monument to the fortress and a place to house the relics of the Passion of Christ, he did not live to see its culmination. With construction beginning in 1379, it still remained unfinished in the 16th century. King Francois I, a frequent resident, resolved to bring it to its completion in 1520, to celebrate the birth of his son and heir. Upon his death, Henry II of France resumed construction, completing the vaults and overseeing the addition of woodwork and stained glass with its completion in 1552.

While both are built in the Gothic style and organized in the same manner, this one seemed much more narrow and more brightly lit. Devoid of seating or ornamentation aside from the windows and the altar, it was a clear view of the sole internal space, especially from the rear choir loft, in contrast to Sainte Chapelle on the Ile de la Cite having two levels, upper for the King and his family and the lower for ordinary members of the court.

The sacristy, a separate two story structure, is attached to the chapel at the oratory of the King on the north side of the chapel and a stunning funerary monument of the Duke of Enghien can be found inside as well.

*Funerary monument of the Duke of Enghien*

Exiting the Chapel I headed through the arches into the courtyard of the Pavilions of the King and Queen. A beautiful, open and grassy space each building, the King’s Pavilion on the southwest corner and the Queen’s opposite.

*View of the King and Queen Pavilion Courtyard*

The King’s Pavilion was constructed between 1610 and 1617 by Louis XVIII and modified over the years to enlarge the structure. Consisting of three stories with five rooms for the King, his apartment looked our west over the gardens. Today, parts of the King’s Pavilion ceiling can be found in the Egyptian collection of the Louvre Museum.

The Queen’s Pavilion was construction many years later, from 1658 to 1660 and followed the same basic design as the King’s structure, however, instead of a garden view, it overlooked the courtyard. As the Germans stored explosives in the two pavilions and these caught fire after an explosion, the building fell in to disrepair.

*King’s Pavilion, upper middle. Queen’s Pavilion, middle*

On this visit, I was able to visit the King’s Pavilion, which houses an exhibition of the Fortresses of the Emperor depicting Napoleon and his military engineers. Personal possessions, artillery, portraits, models and other objects were found on the second floor and although the signage was in French, it was nice to see part of the interior of the building.

As the day was winding to a close and the temperature started to drop, I decided that my exploration of Chateau de Vincennes was at its end. Making my way back to the entrance gate, I headed back to the metro with the same name…

Chateau de Vincennes.

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Chateau de Vincennes

https://www.chateau-de-vincennes.fr/
Address: Avenue de Paris, Vincennes, FR 94300
Hours: 1000-1700, daily
Admission: 9,5€

In Chains

Some of Rome’s major most beloved sights are what visitors aspire to lay their eyes on while visiting the Holy City…the Colosseum, St. Peter’s Basilica, the Vatican and the Trevi Fountain, just to name a few.

Bursting with history, the city offers many museums, churches and ancient archeological sites which detail the city’s bygone times. Amongst these stand-out attractions, however, there are many hidden gems. While visitors certainly have their pick of other attractions on the way to each of these places, it may be hard to discern which are worthy of a peek inside and I make it my mission to find these hidden gems…many of them, churches.

Last spring, while plotting my route to the Domus Aureus, I spotted a church a few blocks from the Coliseum. I had planned to leave with plenty of time to grab a bite to eat and take some photos of the Coliseum, so I decided to add this detour and mark off another church from my list (yes, I am obsessed with seeing all churches in Rome!).

As I exited the Cavour metro station and marched up Oppian Hill, I became a bit confused. Although I was operating on little sleep, I could not figure out if this was my intended destination. The façade of the the supposed church was extremely plain and situated next to a university building. In fact, spotting students chatting and reading on the adjoined steps, I thought it to be an extension of the university edifice.

Fully expecting to interrupt a classroom full of scholars, engaged in a discussion on world politics, I marched up to the conventional brown door, set inside a narrow portico, and pushed it open.

No stern professor glared back at me for the abrupt interruption…

This was San Pietro in Vincoli, or St. Peter in Chains, the church that houses the restraints that bound St. Peter when he was imprisoned in Jerusalem.

Formerly known as Basilica Eudoxiana, it was built on older foundations during a span of eight years, starting in 432. Consecrated in 439, it was to become the place that would house the shackles that kept St. Peter imprisoned.

The chains from Saint Peter’s Jerusalem confinement were passed from Iuvenalis, Bishop of Jerusalem, to Aelia Eudocia (consort of Valentinian II) and then given to her daughter, Empress Eudoxia (wife of Emperor Valentinian III). They were then gifted, by the Empress, to Pope Leo I. Legend states that on August 1, when Pope Leo I compared them to the chains of St. Peter’s final imprisonment in the Rome’s Mamertime Prison, the two chains fused together prompting the pope to initiate the construction of a place where this miracle could be viewed by the faithful.

The church contains a main nave and two aisles and normally, I would first work my way through each aisle to see the side chapels. This time, I headed straight for the main altar. There was something special here that I needed to see.

Underneath the main altar, accessed by an open stairway, I found these important relics, housed in a reliquary in a lighted case and flanked by statues. Judging by todays standards and chains that I have seen used in various applications, these appear to be thin and quite flimsy. That being said, even with these restraining me, I probably could have not escaped imprisonment and I was moved knowing that these iron manacles once touched the flesh of Saint Peter.

My inquisitiveness satisfied, I moved on, focusing my attention on the other important aspect of San Pietro in Vincoli. While the basilica is more commonly known for the chains of Saint Peter, it is also very well known for being the home of Michelangelo’s statue of Moses which guards the tomb of Pope Julius II. Located on the right side of the church, the imposing funeral monument was originally intended to be part of a massive forty-seven foot statue. Instead, it became the centerpiece of the Pope’s tomb. There is much to analyze in the massive sculptural piece, however, take a hard look at Moses…he is depicted with horns, connoting “the radiance of the Lord”, a symbol that was common in early sacred art and easier to sculpt than rays of light.

*Michelangelo’s statue of Moses and the tomb of Pope Julius II*

*Moses reproductions for closer inspection*

Naturally, I proceeded to move through the two side aisles and the two side altars, inspecting the chapels and beautiful works displayed in each as well as glancing above at the 18th century coffered ceiling. This great work of art displays the Miracle of the Chains, by Giovanni Battista Parodi, depicting the healing of Saint Balbina by Pope Alexander as he touches the neck goiter with the chains that once bound Saint Peter.

*San Pietro in Vincoli coffered ceiling*

Artistry decorating the basilica include a painting depicting the Liberation of St. Peter (Domenichino,1604), Deposition (Cristoforo Roncalli) on the altarpiece on the first chapel on the left, the tomb of Cardinal Nicholas of Kues and its relief, Cardinal Nicholas before St. Peter. Other notable tombs include the one of Florentine sculptor, Antonio del Pollaiuolo (left side of entrance) who added the figures of Romulus and Remus to the sculpture of the Capitoline Wolf, the tomb of Cardinal Cinzio Aldobrandini and tombs once believe to be the seven Maccabean martyrs depicted in 2 Maccabees 7-14.

The third altar in the left aisle holds a beautiful mosaic of Saint Sebastian from the seventh century which depicts Saint Sebastian’s posthumous role in ceasing the plague in northern Italy in 680. Pay close attention to the frescoes as they illustrate skeletons and other images not often shown in Catholic churches.

As I exited the facility and walked around the peripheral, I was once again struck at its simplistic nature. Disguised by the activities of La Sapienza University next door, housed in the former associated convent, one might never know that they are walking past one of the most illustrious churches in the city.

Yes, on this day, I found one of the city’s hidden gems.

San Pietro in Vincoli

https://www.sanpietroinvincoli.com/
Address: Piazza di San Pietro in Vincoli 4/a, Roma, Italy 00184
Hours: Daily, 0800-1230 and 1500-1900
Admission: free
Getting There: By Metro, Cavour, Line B. By Bus, number 75, 84 and 117

Beginning in Bogota

Mardi Gras is a huge celebration, especially in Louisiana, but amidst the beads and floats, some people forget that Mardi Gras is the precursor to the Lenten season for the Catholic religion. Partying and feasting are the norm during the Mardi Gras season, but all that comes to an end on Ash Wednesday, the day after Fat Tuesday, when Catholics begin their abstinence for six weeks.

Having attended Catholic school, I remember being off of school for the Mardi Gras holiday, but the thing I remembered most was attending mass on Ash Wednesday with my school so that we could receive ashes on our foreheads. For the Lenten season, it was as important to us as Good Friday and Easter Sunday.

Recently, I found myself in Bogota. Since I had not been to Colombia in many years, I was excited to revisit some of the places that I had in the past and some new ones. At least one of those places was a church and since it happened to be Ash Wednesday, I was excited to see if any of the traditions in Bogota Catholicism were different than I expected.

Early in the morning, two of my friends and I decided to take an Uber to one of Bogota’s most famous natural landmarks, Monserrate. Rising more than 10,000 feet above the city center, the mountain boasts a 17th century church and shrine devoted to El Señor Caído (“The Fallen Lord”).

I recalled visiting many years ago, but I didn’t remember much except for the photo of a beautiful flower that I took there (that now hangs on my living room wall) and that we had taken a teleférico (cable car) to the top of the mountain.

Arriving at the teleférico station, we discovered that the teleférico was not in operation, only the funicular. So be it! It was either that or a long hike (almost two miles) with a steep grade! Purchasing our tickets, we took our place in line and awaiting our turn to board the railway car to the mountaintop. As we were packed like sardines, it made it easy to make friends and I practiced my Spanish while we enjoyed the scenery during the climb.

At the end of the line, we exited the funicular and made our way along the pathway admiring the beautiful statues of the Stations of the Cross as well as the stunning views of the city below, in between the low clouds and light rain showers. On the adjacent mountain, we spied the 45-foot tall statue of the Virgin of Guadalupe and its adjacent sanctuary, which appeared to be miniscule from our vantage point. Finally, we were face to face with the Basilica Sanctuary of Monserrate which houses the statue of the fallen Lord of Monserrate, representing Jesus falling for the third time on his way to Calvary.

Pausing for a moment to take a photo with the Bogota sign in front of the basilica, we then entered, realizing that Ash Wednesday mass was taking place. Walking quietly through the church, I made my way through its interior, investigating the chapels and its decorative features. At the rear of the building, in an enclosed room behind the altar, I discovered the Lord of Monserrate. It is said that this miraculous effigy of Christ has hair that grows and that when they try to lower it to the city, its weight increases, becoming an impossible task to achieve. It was difficult to get a good look as the viewing windows were small and many people were lined up, hoping to get a glimpse of the famous icon, but I did notice that hair on the statue appeared to be realistic.

Dating back almost 500 years, the basilica is built on the mountain that was once named Cerro de Las Nieves for its frequent cloudiness. A monastery dedicated to the Virgen of Montserrat was founded in this location and a path was created for pilgrims to climb the hill. The basilica houses a chapel dedicated to this Black Madonna and while I studied it, I thought it to look familiar. After some contemplation, I realized that it was because the origins of the Virgen Morena de Monserrate are of Catalonia, Spain and I had visited the monastery of Montserrat outside of Barcelona many years ago. In fact, it was so familiar to me because I had purchased a tiny replica of this Virgin which sits on my desk in my home office!

After my investigation of the basilica was complete, I wandered around to the rear of the church to where a large craft market is located. Small stalls offered up all sorts of handmade objects, clothing items and religious souvenirs. Hoping to add to my nativity collection, I figured that this would be the best place to find a unique piece. Surprisingly, however, it took quite a bit of asking around to finally find one…and then a lot more searching to find one that met my requirements. Happy at last and package in hand, we decided to catch the funicular so that we could head back down the mountain and catch a ride to the downtown area.

The ride to Plaza de Bolivar was only about ten minutes and we were dropped off right in front of the Catedral Primada de Colombia, better known as the Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Bogota and Primate of Colombia. A lively square, standing before the basilica, it is filled with both locals and tourists, but its main occupants are pigeons! Lots and lots of pigeons!

The square is also surrounded by many historical buildings, including the Palacio de Justicia (Palace of Justice), Palacio Lievano (Palace Lievano), Museo Santa Clara (Santa Clara Museum), Museo Colonial (Colonial Museum) and the National Capitol among others. While we wished that we had had the time to visit everything in this area, it was the cathedral that we were most interested in, however.

Towering over Bolivar Square, the cathedral is the largest church in all of South America. The neoclassical structure has a striking façade, however, its interior, we soon found, was rather lackluster as are many of Columbia’s sanctuaries. We did take the time, however, to inspect the many paintings, sculpture and statues from the 17th and 18th century as well as the side chapels and other architectural features of the church.

*Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Bogota and Primate of Colombia*

*Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Bogota and Primate of Colombia entrance*

Noting that mass was not being conducted, we saw a line spanning the length of the cathedral down the central aisle. The three of us, all practicing Catholics, realized that the cathedral’s parishioners were receiving ashes, so we took our places and slowly made our way to the front of the line. What a special opportunity to receive ashes in the Bogota Cathedral on this day!

Lunchtime had already passed, so deciding to seek out a local restaurant, we headed down the pedestrian friendly Carrera 7. Vendors were plenty and it was fun to check out the some of the unique merchandise and watch the street performers, while seeking out Colombian cuisine. Since it was Ash Wednesday, we had to be mindful of our meat intake, but empanadas were plentiful and it was easy to order those filled with queso and dulce de leche churros for dessert!

Our meal complete, we realized that the afternoon was almost halfway finished. We still had a bit of a drive back to our hotel and there was that pesky thing called work that we had to do, but there was one more church at the end of Carrera 7, that I wanted to visit…the Church of San Francisco.

Dating back to the 16th century, this ornate church is the oldest preserved church in Bogota. Built between 1586 and 1611, it originally was part of a complex combined with a monastery that covered two city blocks and had three two-story cloisters. Its exterior once covered in white, was stripped in recent years leaving only the white bell tower to exhibit its original appearance. Today, the only parts of the original temple that survive are the church façade, the tower and the chancel.

Somewhat intimidating when we approached, with its unassuming façade, graffiti spray painting on the front wall and trash littering the walkway and within the entryway, my colleagues looked to me as though I was a bit mad to bring them here in a city where crime is rampant. Stepping gingerly into the darkened interior, we allowed our eyes to adjust as we gained our bearings. Met with a beautiful red screen separating the inside from the gritty periphery, we peered around up the central aisle toward the high altar. A beautiful wooden roof soared above our heads and a simplistic, double nave design spread around us. The confessionals were designed in an ornate gold and red composition as were many other features, however, the chapels were decorated chiefly in gold and the Stations of the Cross were of a wooden design.

The overall presentation was extremely dark, both in brightness and composition, and I am sad to say, maybe because of its location in the downtown area, it gave me a very eerie feeling. We did not notice many other visitors and no services for Ash Wednesday were being held. I think when I suggested to bid our adieu, my companions were quite relieved to move along.

Our day was coming to a close and other considerations were coming into play, including traffic and getting some rest before flying through the night. Scratching my forehead while on the ride home, I realized that my ashes were still prominently displayed. Removing my compact from my handbag and taking a glance, I noted the dark mark semi-hidden under my bangs.

It was the beginning of Lent. Beginning in Bogota.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Monserrate

https://monserrate.co/
Address: Carrera 2 Este No. 21-48 Paseo Bolívar, Bogota, Colombia
Admissions and Hours: Accessing Monserrate: By foot, trail open every day, except Tuesdays, 0500-1300 to go up and from 0500-1600 to go down. Free of charge. By funicular, Monday to Friday, 0630-1145 and Saturdays, 0630-1630. 23,500 COP (about $5.40 USD) round trip. On Sundays and holidays, 0530-1800. 14,000 COP (about $3.20 USD) round trip. Discounts for Senior citizens (over 62 years). By teleférico, Monday to Saturday, 1200-2200, 23,500 COP (about $5.40 USD) roundtrip. On Sundays, 0530-1800. 14,000 COP (about $3.20 USD) roundtrip. Pets allowed for an additional fee. Basilica Admission: free

Catedral Primada de Colombia

Address: Carrera 7 10 80, Bogotá, CO 111711
Hours: 0900-1700, daily (unverified)
Admission: free

Iglesia de San Francisco (Church of San Francisco)

Avenida Jimenez de Quesada #7-10, Bogota, Colombia
Hours: 0900-1700 (unverified)
Admission: free

Strike Out

Italian train strikes…I hate them.

It always seems that they happen when I have plans to visit other towns in Italy. While they usually give plenty of notice, for some reason, I usually miss that information until I arrive at the train station and realize that something is amiss.

Last October, exactly that happened. Skipping my nap, I readied myself for my day trip to Vigevano, the city known for its shoemaking history. With my list of places I wanted to visit in hand, I arrived at Porta Genova train station, purchased my ticket and walked out to the platform to await my ride. My train was supposed to leave at 12:40, but the time had come and gone. As I began to study the departure board, a man began speaking to me in Italian. My confused look must have clued him in that I did not speak his language, so instead, he said, “Signora, no trains, no trains!”

WHAT? NO TRAINS?

Refusing to believe his revelation, I continued to wait, eventually realizing that not one train had traveled through the station. Trying to look up any bit of information on the internet, I had no success, even with attempting to find an alternate route, other than driving or walking.

Defeated, I realized that I needed to find an alternate plan for the day. “Okay, think…”, I said to myself. Realizing that I was near the Navigli Canal area, I decided to head that way.

It was a beautiful, fall afternoon, perfect for strolling along the waterway, so I attempted to enjoy my plan modifications…with a scoop of gelato to cheer me up! Having been in this area before, I decided to seek out more about what makes it special.

Until the nineteenth century, the Navigli canals were the port area of Milan allowing the reach of Lake Maggiore, Lake Como and Ticino. Consisting of two major canals, Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese, these canals were used to import the marble needed to construct the Duomo church.

Today, there are alternate methods of reaching other Italian cities and for receiving goods and merchandise, but the Navigli canals still play an important part in the Milanese daily life. An exciting place where locals and tourists alike meet to enjoy the lovely evenings while the evening light reflects on the waterways, many restaurants and bars are available to choose from. The last Sunday of the month also draws crowds for the Vintage Market, which hosts exhibitors from all over Lombardy selling an odd assortment of goods.

It wasn’t Sunday and it wasn’t quite happy hour yet, so I opted to analyze every shop, alleyway and piece of architecture along the way. Not long after I began my explorations, I stumbled upon something interesting. What appeared to be an awning covering a small stream, I learned was the Vicolo Lavandai, the former laundromat, dating back to the last century. One would expect that it was the meeting place of women, however, it is interesting to note that in fact, it was the men who did the washing here. The small stream was fed by the Naviglio Grande and on wooden boards, also known as brellins, they scrubbed their clothing items. These men created their own trade association in 1700, the Confraternita dei Lavandai which had St. Anthony of Padua as its patron saint and it was to him that they dedicated the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie al Naviglio.

This church was where I headed next, a short distance down the canal.

Santa Maria delle Grazie al Naviglio, had its humble beginnings on the left bank of the Naviglio Grande in the sixteenth century with a chapel built to house an image of the Madonna. The chapel was eventually demolished and a larger Baroque church was built in its place, being devastated by fire in 1719 and then restored. At the end of the 19th century, the church, deemed to small for the growing parish, was demolished and replaced with a larger one in 1909…the current church.

The exterior was a bit confusing for me as it did not look like many of the Italian churches I had visited. In fact, it did not really appear to be a church at all remaining largely unfinished. I entered the portal set in its rough brick façade and took a look around, still not convinced that it was a church that I was setting foot in.

Glancing around, I noticed that the church’s neo-Romanesque interior contained three naves covered by a barrel vault. As I made my way down the main aisle, I admired the afternoon light filtering in through the stained glass windows established throughout the church. Two bronze pulpits and two additional altars flanked the main altar. These altars were crowned by stained glass windows depicting the Cross and the Madonna. The altar on the left was formerly the main altar and contained a statue of the Pietà which was originally housed in the previous church. The right altar is dedicated to Saint Anthony of Padua, the protector of the nearby laundrymen. The highlight, however, was the neo-Gothic high altar which showcased a beautiful temple containing a bas-relief of God the Father Blessing.

*Altars dedicated to Saint Anthony of Padua and the Pieta*

Making my way through the church’s interior, I was continually drawn to the rich stained glass windows and the church’s clean lines. Stopping in the baptistery, I admired the stunning fresco of Jesus’ baptism by John the Baptist.

The cafes were starting to attract a few patrons interested in cappuccinos and stronger concoctions. As tempting as a nice, chilled Nastro Azzurro sounded at that moment, I decided to make my way to one other place.

Passing the Church of San Gottardo al Corso and Porta Ticinese, the former city gate of Milan, I snapped a few photographs of each, but with neither being my intended destination, I continued on.

Finally, I made it to the place that had been on my list of things to see in Milan for some time…Basilica di Sant’ Eustorgio or more specifically, the Museum of Sant’Eustorgio and the Portineri Chapel.

Walking through the cloister, I made my way to the entrance to the museum. Here, I paid my entrance and began my self-guided tour through the museum. After St. Ambrogio, the 4th century Saint Eustorgio is one of the most noteworthy medieval structures in the city and stands on the ruins of an Early Christian Necropolis. It houses the famous Portinari chapel as well as numerous artworks of different nature.

*Remains of Early Christian Neocropolis*

Moving from the southern portico of the first cloister to the remains of the early Christian necropolis, I admired the frescoes that decorated the walls of this area. Heading then to the former chapter house of the primitive Dominican monastery and then the monumental sacristy, I inspected the large collection of relics, liturgical objects, vessels and reliquaries that were exhibited in the walnut cabinets. While the collection is vast, many which were referred to in the archives, have been lost over the years.

Continuing on to the sunlit Solarian Chapel with its black and white floors, I stopped for a moment to appreciate its simplistic style. Turning and navigating the hall on the left, I then found myself in the famous Portinari Chapel.

Commenced in 1460 and completed in 1468, this jewel of the church, created in the Renaissance style, is absolutely breathtaking. With walls decorated with frescos by Vincenzo Foppa and a multi-hued dome, it contains the relic head of St. Peter of Verona, to whom the chapel is consecrated. Originally slated to function as both a family chapel and mortuary, the marble sepulchre of Peter of Verona was moved from the basilica into the chapel in 1736. A marble altar was erected in front of it, on which was place a silver shrine containing the saint’s head. In the 1880’s the sepulchre was placed off center in the chapel to be better illuminated and the shrine containing the head was moved to a small adjacent chapel. The chapel also includes a number of paintings by undisclosed Lombard artists including frescoes such as the Miracolo della nuvola e Miracolo della falsa Madonna, and a depiction of the martyrdom of St. Peter Martyr.

Finally, I made my way to the dimly lit basilica which was once an important stop for pilgrims on their journey to the Holy Land because it was said to contain the tomb of the Three Magi.

Founded around the 4th century, it was named after Eustorgius I, the Bishop of Milan. In the 12th century the revered relics of the Magi were taken to Cologne, Germany and it wasn’t until the beginning of the 20th century that fragments of the bones and garments were returned to Sant’Eustorgio. Today, they are in the Three Kings altar.

On the right side of the church there are chapels commissioned from the 14th century onwards by Milan’s prestigious families each contain important frescoes and tombs. The high altar offers an imposing marble polytypch from the 15th century and other important works by Ambrogio Figinia can be found in the church.

As I exited the church, I took a few moments to analyze its more modern exterior, dating back to the 19th century. What is interesting to note is that the belltower is topped with a star instead of a traditional cross, giving homage to the Three Magi.

As my day was coming to a close, I took a seat at the restaurant I chose along the Navigli Grande. Reflecting on the turn of events due to the train strike, I was sad that I wasn’t able to stay with my plan of visiting Vigevano. Yes, I struck out!

But…that didn’t mean that I lost the game. With some quick thinking, I was able to salvage the day and see some amazing sights within the city. And Milan is full of them!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Vicolo Lavandai

Address: Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 14, 20144 Milano MI, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie al Naviglio

Address: Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 34, 20144 Milano MI, Italy
Hours: unknown
Admission: free

Church of Saint Gotthard al Corso

Address: Corso S. Gottardo, 6, 20136, Milano MI, Italy
Hours: unknown
Admission: free

Porta Ticinese

Address: Piazza Ventiquattro Maggio, 20123 Milano MI, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Basilica di Sant’ Eustorgio

http://www.santeustorgio.it/ http://www.museosanteustorgio.it/en/home-eng/
Address: Piazza Sant’Eustorgio, 1, 20122 Milano, MI, Italy
Hours: Church, daily, 0745-1200 and 1530-1830. Museum of Sant’ Eustorgio, Monday, closed. Tuesday to Sunday, 1000-1800.
Admission: Adults, €6,00, Children (ages 6-18), €4,00, Children (under 6), free.
Getting There: From Piazza Duomo (MM1 and MM3) with Tram 3. Trams 9 and 10 (Piazza XXIV Maggio stop) and from Piazza Sant’Ambrogio (MM2) with bus 94 (DeAmicis-C.so Porta Ticinese stop).

The Glass

You know the saying…”the glass is half full”?

My husband is that kind of guy…always sees the bright spot!

While my husband could have been upset that I only allotted a condensed visit to Murano during our day, he was elated that he would have any time there at all. My birthday, my decision…he had agreed to this plan! So…glass half full!

Revisiting Murano was not high on my list. Twice before, I had called upon the island, most recently, the week before. Both times, I had been part of a tour and was taken immediately to one of the glass blowing demonstrations in one of the workshops on the Grand Canal of Murano. With limited time, because of the presentation, my impression of Murano was not optimum. Not having time to do much exploration, the only thing I could associate with it was a dark, cramped (and hot) workspace, filled with other tourists, holding up their iPhone (me included), trying to document a master glassblower manipulate molten glass into a small pony. Then, being ushered into the crowded giftshop so that I could buy a replica of that breakable steed.

Arriving from Burano, we disembarked onto the Murano Faro dock and had a wonderful view of the tall, elegant lighthouse that was built in 1934. Walking down Calle Bressagio, we passed the Oratorio Ex ospizio Briati, a chapel which was the former Carmelite convent and followed the street until we reached the canal along Fondamenta Manin, where we browsed the many souvenir shops that line the waterway.

A building across the canal caught my eye and I quickly ushered my husband across the bridge….the Church of Saint Peter Martyr. This ancient church was originally built in 1348 with a Dominican convent and was dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. After a fire in 1474, it was rebuilt to its current state and was one of the two main parish churches on the island of Murano that I planned to visit.

Church of Saint Peter Martyr

The church contains some important works by Tintoretto (Baptism of Christ), Giovanni Bellini (Assumption with Saints and Barbarigo Altarpiece), Giovane (San Nicolo, Santa Lucia, San Carlo Borromeo), Paolo Veronese (Saint Jerome in the Desert), Giovanni Agostino da Lodi (Barcaioli Altarpiece) and Guisseppe Porta (Deposition from the Cross). In the right wing is the Ballarin Chapel, built in 1506 and named after the famous glassmaker from Murano. It is a humble church, but warm and welcoming.

Continuing our explorations, strangely enough, we found ourselves at the Guarnieri Glass Factory. It wasn’t one of the factories that I had visited previously, but it also wasn’t something that I had really desired to experience again. As we approached the arched entrance, decorated with beautiful glass roses, a gentleman greeted us warmly. The factory was about to close, but he agreed to ask the master craftsman if he would do one more demonstration for us. Although this man seemed reluctant, no doubt ready to retreat to his air conditioned home for a nice dinner, he agreed after another couple approached.

Sweating profusely in the intense heat, he shaped a beautiful stallion, much more elegant that the ones I had witnessed being sculpted at the other demonstrations. For his final act, a glass bubble was blown and popped, signaling his departure!

I must admit, while it was not something I had wished to do again, it was quite nice to be one of only two couples in attendance and I later learned that this is one of the best places to seek out this experience. The outstanding thing about it, however, was that before leaving, I ended up with a beautiful necklace from the gift shop! A splendid birthday gift!

Murano boasted an impressive landscape along its hidden streets and central canals…stunning Italian architecture, cobblestone streets and occasional handblown glass exhibits randomly placed in courtyards throughout. While we never did make it to the other church that I so desired to see, Duomo Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato, we enjoyed the impressive scenery that we encountered.

It was getting late in the afternoon at this point and the sun’s slanted rays led to an ambiance that I had never experienced in Murano having visited earlier in the day. Entranced with the deepening of the colors along the canals, I actually hated to leave. Indubitably a much different Murano, one I would choose to return to again.

As we boarded the water taxi for our return to Venice, we found the ride to be much more enjoyable with the heat of the day diminishing. In fact, a cool breeze made our ride quite refreshing especially since we were able to snag a spot on the outside deck. Cruising between the islands, the sunlight glittered on the waters as we passed Cimitero di San Michele, the 10th century cemetery christened after the resident Church of Saint Michael. Entering the canals of Venice, we passed elegant bridges spanning its width, and spied architecture, palpable in late afternoon sunshine, while tourists strolled the banks searching for their dinner destination.

These tourists would be us later, celebrating my birthday and the glass would definitely be full…of my favorite Italian beer!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Church of Saint Peter Martyr

Address: Fondamenta dei Vetrai, 30141 Venezia VE, Italy
Hours: Unknown
Admission: free

Guarnieri Vetreria Artistica

Address: Fondamenta Serenella, 11, 30141 Venezia VE, Italy
Hours: Monday to Friday, 0900-1800, Saturday, 0900-1645, Sunday, Closed
Admission: free