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The Scaliger family (also known as Della Scala or Saligieri) of Verona was an influential one from the 13th to 14th century, ruling during this time period.
The family rose to prominence during the 11th century with their founder, Masstino I della Scala becoming the chief magistrate after the defeat and death of Ezzelino da Romano, a tyrant of Verona, in 1277. Succeeded by his brother Alberto and subsequently by Alberto’s son, Bartolomeo, it was during the latter’s reign that, according to tradition, Romeo and Juliet fell in love and died.
With such prestige in life, it is expected that in death, the members of this family would also be celebrated and entombed extravagantly so that others could pay homage for many centuries.
In many cultures, cemeteries exist so that the living can pay their respects to the dead. The Italian one is no exception, however, while some gravesites that Americans are familiar with are simple headstones, prominent families in Italy are entombed in elaborate mausoleums. These mausoleums of the Scaligeri are fine examples of the artistic talents put to use to show the wealth and power that the family held.
In Verona, the Scaliger tombs stand in the courtyard of the Church of Santa Maria Antica, which dates to 1185. While I was not sure what I was enroute to see, after spotting it on Google Maps a few blocks from Juliet’s House, it was certainly a landmark that I was glad that I had sought out. To say that the Scaliger tombs are elaborate would be an understatement!
Enclosed by an iron fence, it is easy for passersby to examine the tombs from afar. I assure you, however, it is worth the minimal entrance fee to enter the premises and see these monumental burial chambers up close and personal.
Adjacent to the Piazza dei Signori, the historic central square of Verona’s Città Antica and other major attractions, the memorials invite visitors to understand the idea of the wealth and power of the Lords of Verona. While the funerary monuments are not plentiful, they are indeed breathtaking examples of Gothic art.
A handout, given to me by caretakers who also accepted my entrance fee, directed me around the small courtyard and I inspected each of the tombs which are located on the ground or on raised floors.
The tomb of Cangrande I Della Scala is placed above the portal of the church and is the first of the tombs that was built in the 14th century by his own will. The tomb is comprised of a tabernacle supported by embellished dogs and on the lid is the reclining statue of the deceased. The sides are decorated and on the top of the canopy, there is a copy of the equestrian statue of Cangrande I (the original is kept in the Castelvecchio Museum along with the funerary equipment).
The ark of Mastino II, which was begun in 1345, had many design changes over the years. Originally painted and gilded, it is surrounded by a gate at the corners of which there are four statues of the Virtues. On the lid, there is a statue of Mastino II lying down and being watched over by two angels. There is an equestrian statue of Mastino II, a copy, of which the original being located in the Castelvecchio clock tower.
The ark of Cansignorio, which dates back to 1375, is the most elaborately decorated. Designed by Bonino da Campione, it depicts sculptures of warrior saints, characters from the Gospels, Virtues and Apostles and a large equestrian statue of Cansignorio.
The sarcophagus of Albert I is a richly carved monument, constructed in 1301.
The tomb of Mastino I is the oldest.
The hanging ark by Giovanni della Scala is a work by Andriolo de Santi. It was finished in 1359 at the church of S. Fermo Maggiore, where it remained until 1400.
This sarcophogi is the most ornamented in the lot. It was possibly commissioned by Alberto I in 1300 and might have been the first burial site for Cangrande.
After my inspection of the tombs was complete, I found the Church of Santa Maria Antica to be open on this day. This small church was originally linked with a convent founded in 744-745. In the 1200s, it became the private chapel of the Scaligeri family who then erected their famous sepulchre alongside the structure.
Wandering in, I donned a shoulder covering given to me by one of the volunteers. The modest sanctuary was dimly lit and quiet and it didn’t appear that photographs were appreciated by the woman keeping a sharp eye on the visitors. While I was able to capture a couple undetected, as I was inspecting the 14th century frescoes in the central nave, I took a moment to nod my head in prayer before departing.
There were many places that I visited on my brief trip to Verona. It was interesting to realize, in retrospect, that so many of the places I had visited, had connections to the others. The Castelvecchio Museum contained some of original pieces of the Scaligeri tombs, which I had unknowingly inspected on my visit there earlier in the day, and later on, I had visited San Fermo Maggiore church which had held the hanging ark by Giovanni della Scala for many years. I had not known all of this prior to my visit, but only later, when doing some research.
While not a lengthy visit, take a few minutes to visit the Scaligeri tombs to comprehend the beauty and history of these funerary monuments and seek out their significance in the other landmarks of Verona.
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Scaliger Tombs
- Address: Via San M. Antica 1, Verona VR, Italy
- Hours: unknown
- Admission: €3 (unverified)
After entering the premises and walking down the pathway lined with apricot trees, we encountered a wall. It was interesting to note that this wall was placed here to keep evil spirits away as they can only travel in straight lines. If, by some chance, the spirit was able to navigate around the wall, they would encounter the reflecting pond directly in front of the house. Since spirits do not have a reflection, this was the second line of defense for the house.
The garden house, was designed in the traditional Vietnamese style, in an almost total square with an area of about 135 meters. We were able to take a seat, have tea and enjoy the beautiful woodwork and the family altar which is its centerpiece. There are also many precious relics of the Nguyen dynasty, including four horizontal lacquered boards with the words, “Van Vo Trung Hieu” (literature, military, loyal and pious), gifted by King Bao Dai in 1937, hanging in the middle room. Looking out of the open doors that line the front of the house onto the reflecting pond and the multitude of colorful, fragrant flowers, your feeling is one of peace.
Our next stop, after re-boarding our dragon boat, was one that I was familiar with, Thien Mu Pagoda. One thing different from the day before, however, was that our guide gave us much information on the history of the pagoda and pointed out many items of interest, including the pavilion to the right of the tower which contains a stele (1715) set on the back of a massive marble turtle and the precious antiques in the main hall…bronze gong (cast in 1677) and wooden gilded boards with Lord Nguyen Phuc Chu’s inscriptions (1714). Another unusual item is an Austin car in which, monk Thich Quang Duc was driven to his death in Saigon in 1963.
After our guide’s speech was complete, I decided that I would walk around the property and rephotograph everything since the day was much brighter than the previous one. After revisiting the main hall, I walked around the back of the structure and much to my surprise, realized that there was so much more to see. With the rainfall the day before and my haste to meet my driver in time, I must have not realized that the grounds extended far beyond. So…maybe coming back on the tour was not such a bad thing!
We boarded the boat again and were served a nice lunch while continuing our cruise. Our next destination was a small, old pagoda, although I never caught the name. A rather quaint place, built onto the steep rocky banks of the Perfume, it was an interesting stop and had some very old relics inside of the temple.
The first tomb on our tour was Minh Mang, about 12 kilometers from Hue. Construction on the tomb began in September 1840, however, only four months into the project, Minh Mang became sick and passed away. His successor to the throne, Emperor Thieu Tri, continued construction and Minh Mang’s corpse was buried in Buu Thanh in August of 1841. The tomb was completed in 1843.
Moving along into the temple area, we found the Salutation Court, however, rain decided to hamper our progress as the skies opened up. We ducked in to the Sung An Temple after passing through the Hien Duc Mon gate. This temple is where the Emperor and Queen Ta Thien Nhan are worshiped and is flanked by Ta, Huu Phoi Dien (Left, Right Temples) in the front and Ta, Huu Tung Phong (Left, Right Rooms) in the back.
One thing to notice when visiting Khải Định’s tomb is that it is much smaller than the tombs of his predecessors, however, undeniably more elaborate. The rectangular structure of the tomb leans against Chau Chu Mountain and is flanked by the largest sculptures of dragons in all of Vietnam. The tomb features an imperial audience court and twelve stone statues representing bodyguards. The interior boasts intricately designed glass and porcelain decorations on the walls and the ceiling is decorated with nine complex dragons. The rear room of the palace houses a temple containing the Emperor’s grave, an altar dedicated to him and a statue of his likeness, created in Marseilles.
Our next stop was a roadside village where locals make sandalwood and cinnamon incense and traditional Hue conical hats. Colorful stalks of incense are bunched together, hanging on the walls, displayed in bins and some pieces are lit leaving a pleasant aroma in the air. Local women demonstrate the process for making the incense which is used in temples throughout Vietnam.
After passing through the main gate, you notice to your right, the beautiful landscape and Luu Khiem lake. Located on the lake are Xung Khiem and Du Khiem Pavilions where the Emperor would frequent to admire flowers, compose poems and read books. We could hear music floating across the lake and noticed that a cultural performance was taking place. No time to stop, we continued on to the Hoa Khiem Palace (the Emperor’s working place) which is now the altar devoted to the Emperor and the Queen. Flanking both sides of the Palace are Phap Khiem House and Le Khiem House which were for the military and civil mandarins.
To the rear of Hoa Khiem Palace is Luong Khiem Palace (the Emperor’s resting place), which was later used to worship the Emperor’s mother. The the left of the Palace is the Minh Khiem theater and Chi Khiem, the altar to worship the Emperor’s wives and Tri Khiem and Y Khiem Palaces, which were the accommodations of the Emperor’s concubines.
