Hanoi – Snapping The Globe

Hanoi, Leaving No Stone Unturned

The streets of Hanoi were calling…

With so many things left to see in Vietnam’s capital, even though I was exhausted from the long trip the day before, rising early was a must! As I walked along P. Hang Ga, I learned that being up and out early had its advantages…the sidewalks were not as crowded, making it much easier to reach my first destination, Hoa Lo Prison Museum.

Hoa Lo Prison was built in 1896 by the French and was intended to house only 450 inmates. The inmate population eventually exceeded that number, however, and terrible housing conditions resulted. Many died within its confines, but without adequate security, many escaped the prison walls over the years.

The museum focuses mainly on the prison’s use during the French occupation up until the mid-1950s, during Vietnam’s struggle to gain independence. Many displays show the deplorable conditions in which the prisoners lived and the punishments they received. A French guillotine is showcased in one of the rooms and many cells are open for inspection. There is also a memorial in the courtyard dedicated to the Vietnamese prisoners.

Two rooms also concentrate on the American pilots who were incarcerated in the prison during the American War (as it is called in Vietnam). The U.S. POW’s referred to the prison as the Hanoi Hilton and after analyzing the many photos, it seemed as though the American prisoners were treated well, though from prisoners accounts, we have learned that was far from the truth. American pilots that were incarcerated included Pete Peterson (the first U.S. ambassador to a unified Vietnam in 1995) and Senator John McCain (Republican nominee for the U.S. Presidency in 2008). Senator McCain’s flight suit is displayed as well as photos of the Hanoi locals rescuing him from Truc Bach Lake.

After leaving Hoa Lo prison, a short walk took me to the Ambassadors’ Pagoda (Quán Sứ Temple) in the French Quarter area of Hanoi. The well-maintained pagoda is the official headquarters of Buddhism in Hanoi. The pagoda received its name during the 17th century when there was a guesthouse that housed the ambassadors of Buddhism from other countries. Today, residents hold “send-off” ceremonies for the souls of recently deceased family members and government officials frequently make visits to the pagoda.

Deciding to walk a short ways through the French Quarter area, I circled Thien Quang Lake and headed back north to St. Joseph’s Cathedral, stopping to purchase some delicious donuts from a local Vietnamese woman. She obviously thought I need fattening up as she filled the bag completely. I had to ask her to take donuts out of the bag four times to get to the amount that I desired!

Eating my snack as I walked, I soon arrived at the Neo-Gothic Cathedral. Noticing that the main entrance was blocked off, I admired the soaring facade with its twin bell towers and took pictures from its plaza. Assuming that entry was only available during Mass-times, I continued my journey, only to find later that entry was available through the Diocese of Hanoi compound, a block away.

Arriving in the Hoan Kiem Lake area, I first noticed the Thang Long Water Puppet Theater. Not quite understanding what a water puppet show entailed, I had heard that the shows were quite nice and something that all visitor’s to Hanoi should see. Proceeding to the ticket counter, I purchased a ticket to the next show. Having more than an hour before my performance, I decided to do a little shopping and visit the Ngoc Son Temple which sits in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake.

Ngoc Son (Temple of the Jade Mountain) is reached by entering the Tam Quan (Three-Passage Gate) and crossing the red wooden bridge called The Huc (Rising Sun), to the its location on the Jade Islet. In the 16th-18th centuries, a country villa was located on the islet and used by the Trinh mandarins when boating on the lake. In the 19th century, the temple had many different uses, but currently, it is dedicated to Tran Hung Dao, a 13th century Vietnamese national hero, scholar Van Xuong and to Nguyen Van Sieu a Confucian master who restored and expanded the temple in 1864.

There are a few buildings to visit in the temple, the Pen Tower, Dai Nghien, the Moon Contemplation Pavilion and the Pavilion Against Waves, all of which have symbolic meaning. Once you have spent time within the temple, take time to observe the lake from this unique perspective. If you are early enough in the morning, catch the sunrise from the bridge and throughout the day, watch for a giant turtle head floating above the water…a sign of good luck.

Leaving the busy temple, I headed back to the Thang Long Water Puppet Theater. Taking my seat in the middle of the theater, I marveled at the musicians accompanied by the cheo singers who chant the story and warn the puppets of danger. Although I watched closely, I could never figure out how the puppets danced above the water. Reading up on the art of Vietnamese puppetry, I did learn that the guilds closely preserve the secrets of their craft…so, I guess I will never know. Enjoying something I had never experienced. it was also nice to be away from the heat of the day and have a chance to rest my feet.

The next point on my map was Ngôi Nhà di Sản (The Heritage House). A small inconspicuous building on Ma May Street, I actually walked past it a couple of times before realizing its location. One of the few intact remains of an old-style home in Hanoi, it is an excellent glimpse into how Hanoi’s residents once lived.

Further down the street from the Heritage House is the oldest temple in Hanoi, Bach Ma. Also known as the White Horse Temple, it was built in the 11th century by the order of King Ly Thai To, the governor of Hanoi. Everything you see today, however, dates from the late 18th century when the temple was restored. Arriving at the end of the day, the woman in charge of the temple was closing up, but saw me approaching and invited me in. She kindly allowed me to look through the entire building without feeling rushed.

The final things on my Hanoi “To Do” list were not far in the Old Quarter. Navigating the crowded and narrow streets, I first made my way to the Old City Gate. Somehow, I lost my bearings and was not sure which direction to turn. With the help of a shopkeeper, I was pointed in the right direction and soon found the landmark. In 1010, the thick city walls protected the city’s interior and the king and his court. Access to the city was by four gates, only one of which remains today. The gate still stands strong and motorbikes ride through the openings throughout the day.

Walking through the gates, I came to the highway and crossed over using the covered walkway. Spanning 4 km of the Song Hong dyke, is the Hanoi Ceramic Road. Completed in 2010 for Hanoi’s 1000th birthday celebration, it is comprised of scene’s depicting different periods in Vietnam’s history. I first saw this mural upon my arrival into the city and then again while on the bus to Ha Long Bay. It is wonderful to see the craftsmanship up close, though a little disconcerting with the traffic flying by.

Finally, my checklist was complete. Everything that I had set out to do and see in the country’s capital was now stored away in my memory and on my camera’s SD card. It was time to move on. It would be an early morning as I set out for my next Vietnamese adventure…Hoi An.

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Hoa Lo Prison Museum

http://hoalo.vn/
Address: 1 Hoả Lò, Trần Hưng Đạo, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Hours: 0800-1130 and 1330-1700, daily. Self-guided tours, signs in English, Vietnamese and French
Admission: 10,000 Vietnamese dong (about US 50 cents)

Ambassadors’ Pagoda

http://www.hynostravel.com/attractions/ambassadors-pagoda-hanoi-vietnam/
Address: 73 Quán Sứ, Trần Hưng Đạo, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: free
Modest dress required

Thang Long Water Puppet Theater

http://thanglongwaterpuppet.org/en/
Address: 57b Dinh Tien Hoang Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam
Hours: Summer, 1610, 1720, 1830, 2000, Winter, 1500, 1610, 1720, 1830, 2000 and 2115, Sunday morning 0930
Admission: Adults, 100,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $4.50), Children (under 1.2 meter), 60,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $2.70). Assigned seating.

Ngoc Son Temple

http://www.hynostravel.com/attractions/ngoc-son-temple-hanoi-vietnam/
Address: Dinh Tien Hoang St., Hanoi 100000, Vietnam, Hoan Kiem Lake
Hours: 0730-1700, daily
Admission: 30,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $1.35)

Heritage House

Address: 87 Ma May Street, Hanoi, Vietnam
Hours: 0830-1700, daily, closed during the lunch hour
Admission: 10,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $.50)

Bach Ma Temple

Address: 13 Hàng Giấy, Hàng Buồm, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Hours: 0700-1100 and 1400-1700
Admission: free

Old City Gate

Address: 56 Hàng Chiếu, Đồng Xuân, Hoàn Kiếm Đồng Xuân Hoàn Kiếm Hà Nội, Vietnam, Vietnam
Hours: Open always
Admission: free

Hanoi Ceramic Mosaic Mural

Address: Ấp Thạnh Vinh, Phúc Xá, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Hours: Open always
Admission: free

Hanoi, Having a Look…

Three forty-five a.m. My eyes pop wide open.

Having been to Asia before, it was no surprise to wake up this early. It had happened quite frequently when I was in Thailand a couple of years ago. The trick was to make use of my time…update Facebook, edit pictures, write blog posts, call home.

The Ha Long Bay cruise, was still weighing heavily on my mind. Still not sure what to do, I called a friend who had done Ha Long Bay as a day trip and asked her for her opinion. She assured me that since there was so much that I wanted to do and see in Hanoi, I would definitely benefit from doing a day trip and that I would not miss out on anything. Yes, it would be a day trip (albeit a long, tiring one) and it would be a much cheaper option, helping to resolve that deficit I was now in thanks to my expensive visa!

Feeling good about my decision, I finally dressed for the day and headed downstairs for breakfast. After some fruit, sticky rice and an omelet, I enlisted the front desk’s help to finalize my booking for my Ha Long Bay trip the next day. Finally, it was all set.

Glad to have the Ha Long Bay dilemma resolved, I gathered my belongings, marched out of the hotel into the congested streets and made my way toward the western part of the city. My plan was to venture northwest of the Old Quarter and begin my exploration at the Ho Tay or West Lake.

Making my way westward along a street behind my hotel, I still marveled at the hoards of motorbikes passing by and admired the locals making deals on their daily produce. Soon, I came to a few stalls that contained piles of some sort of grilled animal. Behind two of these, I noticed women wielding cleavers and cutting the animals into pieces. After taking a closer look, I stopped in my tracks. Were these dogs? Already attracting negative attention as a foreigner with a camera swinging freely around her neck, I didn’t dare lift it to take a picture. I stopped in my tracks, pretended to search for something in my bag, while trying to get a better look. A few negative glances deterred my curiosity, so I walked across the street to another stall with a lady who did not appear so menacing. As sweetly as I could, I inquired as to what kind of animal it was. Not as welcoming as I thought, she proceeded to yell at me to go away, further making me think that these were indeed dogs.

I am sure that I am not the first westerner to walk down this street early in the morning and witness this ritual and I am sure that there have been many animal rights activists willing to give the Vietnamese people a piece of their mind. I decided to keep walking or possibly find myself in a situation that I was not willing to welcome, however, I did find out later that dog is still considered a delicacy in Vietnam. Typically, Vietnamese eat dog meat at the end of the lunar month to get rid of bad luck. Dog is also the go-to dish for drinking parties, family reunions and special occasions. It is said to increase a man’s virility and help provide medicinal cures. Although I vowed at that moment to avoid beef, lest I be served something I was not comfortable with, I was also told that because it is more costly than beef, chances of that happening were extremely rare. Still, I decided that I would be consuming chicken, pork and seafood during my stay.

After my early morning shock and struggling to put it out of my mind, I continued my walk along the streets covered with beautiful old trees and lush greenery. I marveled at the monuments, buildings and churches that I passed and soon, I arrived at my first destination, the Quán Thánh Temple.

The Quán Thánh Temple, formerly known as the Trấn Vũ Temple, is a Taoist temple dating back to the 11th century. One of the four Sacred Temples of the capital, it is a leading tourist attraction in the city. Known for its principle gate and giant banyan tree shading the large yard, it is one of the oldest temples in Hanoi. The shrine contains a famous bronze statue of Trấn Vũ, Deity of the North in Taoism, and in the courtyard, a brick oven which people use to burn fake money believing it will be sent to their ancestors. Finding it very peaceful, I enjoyed my walk around its gardens.

Leaving Quán Thánh, I headed north along Thanh Nién Road which crosses between Ho Tay (West Lake) and Truc Bach Lake. Many may know Truc Bach Lake as the location in which Senator and former presidential candidate, John McCain, landed during the Vietnam War after being shot down.

Trấn Quốc Pagoda lies just off of Thanh Nién Road on a small island near the southeastern shore of Ho Tay and is the oldest Buddhist temple in Hanoi, constructed in the sixth century. A favorite sightseeing location of kings and lords of Vietnam, it lured these nobles because of its tranquility, serenity and stunning scenery.

Walking along the palm tree lined bridge connecting the pagoda’s island to the mainland, the view of the red pagoda against the green water of Ho Tay is spectacular. The front yellow gates are impressive with its massive wooden doors. Immediately to the left of the entrance, is one of the main parts of the Trấn Quốc Temple as it holds important monk’s ashes of whom have resided at the Trấn Quốc Pagoda for centuries. The monumental stupa, red in color, which symbolizes luck and prosperity and visible from afar, was erected in 1998 and is comprised of 11 floors each displaying a vaulted window holding a statue of Amitabha made from gemstone. The top of the stupa offers a nine-story lotus, also from gemstone.

The Trấn Quốc is also known for its priceless antiques, dating back hundreds of years. The worshiping statues in the front house are meticulously engraved and polished by skillful craftsmen. The most outstanding of the bunch is “Thích ca thập niết bàn”, which has been assessed as the most beautiful statue of Vietnam.

If you can visit this remarkable pagoda at the end of the day, it is renowned for its sunset views.

After my visit to the Trấn Quốc Pagoda was complete, I made my way back from the way I had come, passing the Quán Thánh Temple and headed toward the Presidential Palace.

The Presidential Palace, built between 1900-1906 for the French Governor-General of Indochina by August Henri Vildieu, incorporates Italian Renaissance design and lush landscaping throughout the premises. Although you cannot enter the actual palace, currently used for government meetings, you can see it from a relatively close distance. There are many other items of interest on the grounds including a traditional Vietnamese house on stilts, the house where President Ho Chi Minh lived and worked from 1954 to 1958, a garage of Ho Chi Minh’s cars and a grand carp pond.

Leaving the Presidential Palace, I set out to visit the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum located nearby in Ba Dinh Square. Although the attraction is closed from September through November each year for renovation and is the time when Ho Chi Minh’s body is sent to Russia for re-embalming, you can get a great view of the building from the area where Ho Chi Minh, Chairman of the Communist Party of Vietnam (1951-1969) read the Declaration of Independence on September 2, 1945, establishing the Democratic Republic of Vietnam.

Near Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum and Ho Chi Minh’s Museum lies the One Pillar Pagoda or Chùa Một Cột. This pagoda dates back to 1049 when Emperor Ly Thai Tong had it constructed as a way to express his gratitude to the young peasant girl he married, bearing him a son and heir. The pagoda was built to resemble a lotus blossom and is built of wood on a single stone pillar. The pagoda was destroyed by the French in 1954, but was rebuilt by the new government.

Although my guide book stated that an entrance fee was required, I wandered freely through the pagoda and the adjacent area. This location has many vendors for decently priced souvenirs, snacks and drinks and is a great place to take a break for a short time before continuing on.

My next stop in this fascinating city was the Temple of Literature. This temple is one of many in the city dedicated to Confucius but is also the site of Vietnam’s first university, established in 1706. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect here, but was not disappointed.

Entering through the imposing tiered gateway I was greeted with formal gardens before reaching the Khue Van pavilion and a beautiful fish pond known as the Well of Heavenly Clarity. The area encompassed by the temple is quite large and their are many displays of traditional Vietnamese architecture as well as a low-slung pagoda and numerous statues of Confucius and his disciples. The temple honors Vietnam’s finest scholars and those of literary accomplishment.

As I departed from the Temple of Literature, many school girls were arriving wearing Ao Dai (traditional Vietnamese dress) hoping to take pictures in front of and around the Temple of Literature and seemingly celebrating a success (possibly graduation). It was a sight to behold with the many colors and with their beautiful figures.

Taking a few minutes to grab some lunch at a nearby cafe, I discovered that France is not the only place to get great bread. Though France departed Vietnam in 1954, after one hundred years of colonial rule, they left behind the expertise of unbelievable baking! If you’ve ever had a good ham and cheese baguette in Paris, you’re sure to find one equally appetizing or better in Vietnam!

With aching feet and the clock fast approaching the five o’clock hour, I realized that my final stop in Hanoi, that day, was going to be the Thang Long Royal Citadel.

As I entered the area near the Citadel, I found that an exhibition was taking place in conjunction with the 62nd anniversary of Hanoi Liberation Day. Walking through the grounds, there were many exhibits and colorful displays. The tunnels on the Đoan Môn gate were blocked due the exhibition, but I was able to enter the complex through an adjacent gate. After paying my admission, I was able to climb to the top of the gate and walk throughout the structure. From the top, I had amazing views of the festivities below. This gate is the remaining relic of the ancient Forbidden City.

Walking throughout the UNESCO Heritage site (since 2010), it is easy to see why this complex is a source of great pride to the people of Hanoi and the Vietnamese people. The grounds are lush, green and extensive, although many of the original buildings were destroyed by the French.

15th century stone dragons can be found decorating the steps to what was once Kinh Thien Palace. You can also visit Hau Lau (Black Tower) and Cua Bac (Northern Gate) at the back of the complex as well as the Princess Tower and the Military Operation Bunker.

From the front of the grounds, you see the Flag Tower of Hanoi which is frequently used as a symbol of the city. Built in 1812, during the Nguyen Dynasty, the tower, was spared from destruction during the French colonial rule as it was used as a military post. I inquired as to visiting the tower but was told that it was not open to the public. After my visit, however, I discovered that although most people consider it a part of the Citadel, it is actually part of the Military History Museum. Perhaps I was told that it was not open that day or perhaps I was mistakenly told that it was not open to the public…the language barrier may have contributed to not being able to visit this landmark.

Realizing that the day was drawing to a close, I decided that it was time to head back to my little hotel room in the Old Quarter for a shower and dinner. Exhausted, I was dreading the long walk. After being approached by a motorcyclist and offered a ride to my hotel, I decided to take him up on his bid. Shortly after taking my seat behind him, however, I wondered what I had gotten myself into! Turning his motorbike around and heading into traffic until he was able to get to the street that he wanted, I wondered if he actually knew how to navigate the streets. We continued on…many motorbikes immediately to our left and right and the occasional bus, inches from my shoulder. He made quick work of driving back to the Old Quarter and was soon depositing me at the door of the hotel.

After my harrowing journey, it was time to relax, have a calming drink, eat a delicious dinner and ready myself for my long day to Ha Long Bay the next morning! Reflecting on my day’s adventures, I was amazed that I had braved the streets of Hanoi, even on the back of a motorbike, and seen so many beautiful and inspiring things, however, I realized that I had seen only half of what the city had to offer. There was so much more still to explore. Glad that I had decided on the one day cruise to Ha Long Bay, I was now free to explore the rest of Hanoi’s treasures on my return.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Quán Thánh Temple

Address: Ngã 3 giao cắt và, Thanh Niên, Quán Thánh, Ba Đình, Hanoi, Vietnam
Admission, 10,000 Dong (about 50 cents U.S.)
Opening Hours: 0500-1900

Trấn Quốc Pagoda

Thanh Niên, Trúc Bạch, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Admission, free
Opening Hours: dawn til dusk

Presidential Palace

http://vpctn.gov.vn/Pages/trangchu.aspx
Address: No 1 Hoang Hoa Tham street (Red Gate), Ba Dinh District, Hanoi 10000, Vietnam
Admission: 40,000 Dong (about U.S. $1.80)
Opening Hours: 0700-1700

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

https://www.vietnamonline.com/attraction/ho-chi-minh-mausoleum.html
Address: Ba Dinh Square, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Admission: free
Opening Hours: Summer Hours, 0730-1030, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, 0730-1100, Saturday and Sunday. Winter Hours, 0800-1100, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, 0800-1130, Saturday and Sunday. Closed September 4 through November 4.
Modest Dress required

One Pillar Pagoda (Chùa Một Cột)

http://www.vietnamtourism.com/index.php/tourism/items/241
Address: Chùa Một Cột, Đội Cấn, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Admission: 25,000 Vietnamese Dong (about $1.12)
Opening Hours: 0600-1800, daily

Temple of Literature

http://vanmieu.gov.vn/
Address: Quoc Tu Giam Street, Hanoi, Vietnam, VN
Admission: 10,000 Vietnamese Dong (about U.S. 45 cents)
Opening Hours: 0830-1130 and 1330-1630

Thang Long Royal Citadel

http://www.hoangthanhthanglong.vn/
Address: Quán Thánh, Ba Đình, Hanoi, Vietnam
Admission: 30,000 Vietnamese Dong (about U.S. $1.34)
Opening Hours: 0830-1130 and 1400-1700

Flag Tower of Hanoi

https://www.vietnamonline.com/attraction/hanoi-flag-tower.html
Address: Lê Hồng Phong, Điện Biên, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Admission: 10,000 Vietnamese Dong (about U.S. 45 cents) Admission to Military Museum, 30,000 (about U.S. $1.34)
Opening Hours: 0800-1130 and 1400-1600 Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, Saturday and Sunday.

Heading to Hanoi!

After a few frantic weeks of planning and stressing, I had finally made it to Vietnam..all by myself. I must admit, as adventuresome as I am, I was a bit nervous about being alone in a country that I knew virtually nothing about.

Getting to Vietnam is not an easy feat. An extremely long trip, most treks from the United States involve stops in other cities…Hong Kong, Taipei, Seoul, Manila…before continuing to Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi. My exhausting, five-flight journey, beginning in Richmond, Virginia, would take me to Atlanta, Seattle, Narita, Bangkok and finally, Hanoi and encompass four days!

Early on in my travels…still looking fresh!

Once I had arrived in Bangkok, I set about to book my flight for the next day. Being that I preferred to leave for my return through Singapore, I desired to work my way from north to south, thus ending in Ho Chi Minh City, a closer (and cheaper) flight to Singapore.

Bangkok has two airports, Suvarnabhumi (or the Bangkok International Airport) and Don Mueang International Airport. Both offer flights to Vietnam, but since I had just arrived into and was staying overnight near Suvarnabhumi, I opted to fly from there to Hanoi.

Shortly after the noon hour, I was on my way. Just under two hours later, we were pulling into Noi Bai International Airport.

Having arranged transportation to my hotel, I walked quickly, visa approval letter and forms in hand, to the immigration area to secure my visa. Second in line, I handed everything over to the official and was instructed to take a seat and wait for my name to be called. Carefully, I counted out twenty-five dollars to hand over for the visa stamp fee and five minutes later, my name and picture appeared on the large monitor over the counter. Walking up to the desk, I was handed my passport with my new visa pasted in securely and instructed to pay one hundred and thirty five dollars! Thinking there was a mistake and given a multi-entry visa instead, I let the official know that I had only required the single entry tourist visa. Big shocker! The U.S. and Vietnam have changed the visa procedure, effective August 2016, to a one year, multi entry type with a stamp fee of $135 for all visitors…and somehow, I had missed this information. Well, this was a big blow to my $100 per day allowance!

Trying not to let it get me down, I pulled out the additional $110 and reluctantly handed it over. Safely putting away my passport, I proceeded through immigration, collected my suitcase and exited to the arrivals hall.

Looking for my driver, was the next hurdle. It didn’t seem as though any of the people awaiting passengers with pre-arranged pickup were extremely interesting in them seeing their names on the signs they were supposed to be holding up. Walking among them, bending over and trying to read signs that were folded over while they sat looking at their phones, I began to panic a little as nothing I saw contained my name. Another two rounds among them and I was now sure that my name was not on one of those signs, and, not seeing any phone companies in this area where I could purchase a sim card to make a call, left me wondering what to do. Thankfully, I was able to log into the airport WiFi and use Skype to call my hotel. At the moment that I informed the front desk that my transportation had not arrived, he magically appeared in front of me. Whew! A few moments later, we were on our way in air conditioned comfort to the Tu Linh hotel.

Unfortunately, I had allowed my driver to put my carry-on bag in the trunk which contained my DSLR camera. As we traveled to the city center, there were so many sights that I was unaccustomed to seeing and I wanted to capture them all. Using my Iphone, I was able to get a few, though not of the quality that I would have preferred.

After a forty-five minute ride, we began driving through the narrow, congested streets of the Old Quarter. People were everywhere on sidewalks…eating, cooking, squatting. Motorcycles, cars and bikes fought for space as they passed though the area.

My hotel was like all of the buildings in the area…narrow and tall, as at one time, buildings attempted to minimize taxes because each property was taxed according to the width of the street-facing facade.

Greeted by a friendly young woman, I was given my key and helped to my room by the bellman. Small, but clean, my bed filled the space but my room had everything that I needed, a refrigerator, large television, safety deposit box, hairdryer and hot water.

Since I had only booked my room for one night, I headed downstairs to inquire about trips to Ha Long Bay, which I was hoping to book for the next day. At this point, I was still on the fence about the overnight trip. Although it had been highly recommended to me, others had written about not settling for the cheaper cruises and because I was a solo traveler, I was also subject to a higher rate for occupying a double cabin. Additionally, I was concerned about being an individual on a boat with couples and whether or not it would be an awkward situation, especially during the downtime in the evening. Perusing the many books that were given to me by the front desk attendant, I found it extremely confusing to mesh the price with the amenities. Finally, giving up, I headed out to walk around, find a grocery store and check out the area.

My first lesson in the city was how to cross the street. Basically, there is no right way. Terrified, it took me about ten minutes to muster the courage to dart between the masses of motorcycles and cars speeding through the streets. At one point, I stuck close to an old woman, because I was sure that they would never hit her. You know, they really do respect their elders! Another challenge was navigating the sidewalks…oh wait, you couldn’t! Motorcycles were parked everywhere, defeating the purpose of the sidewalk. Basically, you had to walk along the curb, once again, dodging traffic. I felt completely drained trying to make my way through the area.

After finding the grocery store and stocking up on diet coke, water, beer and a sim card for my phone, I headed back to my hotel. Exhausted, I told myself that I would just lie down for a few minutes to regain my composure. An hour later, I was still there, trying to convince myself that I could just skip dinner and get some rest. Knowing full well that I would be awake at three a.m. dying of hunger and counting down the hours until breakfast, I forced myself up and out the door in search of nourishment. But, first, there was that pesky problem…I still had not booked my Ha Long Bay cruise. Deciding to book another night at the Tu Linh, I gave myself a reprieve and resolved to take a day to explore the city instead. It would also give me the opportunity to gather a bit more information on the Ha Long Bay cruises.

Setting out and walking the three blocks to the street where it was recommended that I eat, I scanned the area for restaurants that appeared to be tourist friendly. Every single one was packed…with locals. Turning right, I walked to another street and then left, hoping to see restaurants with western faces. Finally, I noticed one with other tourists inside. Opening the door, I was met with a friendly greeting and shown to a table. Giving my drink order, I was also met with a question, “And one Cha Ca?” Huh? “One Cha Ca?” I glanced down at the menu and realized that that is the only thing they serve. Okay then. One Cha Ca for me.

Reading the description on the menu, I discovered that it is a specialty of the Hanoi people made from mudfish, snakehead fish or Hemibagrus, a type of catfish. The fish bones are removed, it is covered by banana leaves, seasoned and grilled over a coal heat. The Cha Ca must remain hot, so the servers continually come to the table to reheat and reserve. The Cha Ca is served with roasted peanuts, rice noodles, dill, spring onion, coriander, mint, shrimp paste or fish sauce. And boy was it good!

After looking it up when I returned home, guess what? I just so happened to stumble upon the restaurant in Hanoi that is famous for this dish! Gotta love it when that happens! So, after all, my long, stressful day ended on a positive.

Finally, wandering back to my little hotel, I began to feel more at ease with the busy streets of Hanoi. After a good night’s rest, I was sure that I would be ready to tackle the many sights and attractions that this city was willing to offer.

For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Hanoi

Getting there: Delta Air Lines flies from Atlanta, Detroit, Minneapolis, Los Angeles, Portland and Seattle to Narita International Airport. Although flights to Bangkok will be discontinued at the end of October, you can fly to Singapore and connect to Tiger Air, Jetstar and Vietjet Airlines (non-stop) to various cities in Vietnam. Many other airlines fly from cities in the U.S. making connections in Seoul, Hong Kong, Manila and Taipei.
Where to Stay: Tu Linh Palace Hotel, 2 Hàng Gà, Hàng Bồ, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam. This hotel is in the Old Quarter and near the Đồng Xuân Market and the Night Market open on weekend nights. There are many hotels in the Old Quarter which are extremely tourist friendly. Try the Agoda app which gives the best prices for hotels in Asia.
Where to Eat: Chả Cá Thăng Long, 21 Đường Thành Cửa Đông Cửa Đông Hoàn Kiếm, Hồ Hoàn