El Coz

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The Ritz Carlton it’s not…

But, then again, I probably won’t ever stay at the Ritz Carlton.  Nothing personal… they have lovely properties.  They are just very expensive!

My husband likes higher-end hotels.  Me?  As long as it’s clean, safe and in a good location, that’s good enough for me.  After all, I’m never in my room except to sleep!  My money is better spent on enjoying the location.

As my son and I decided to venture out to Cozumel at the last minute, we had minimal time to make hotel arrangements.  Finding a few properties that were all-inclusive and at great rates, was a bonus!  Trouble was, I didn’t quite remember how Cozumel was laid out.  With the clock ticking, we had to make a decision.  Having narrowed our list down to five properties, we began to compare them…number of bars and restaurants, location of the room type, available wi-fi (and if for a charge), beach size, number of pools, etc.

Eventually, we decided on the El Cozumeleño for its ocean front room, balcony and free wi-fi…and more importantly, the price.

After our arrival into Cozumel, we hired one of the shared buses to take us to our hotel in the north zone.  As we traveled to this end of the island, one of the things I noticed was that other hotels and a couple of restaurants were nearby, but nothing else.  This did not present a problem with meals as we were staying at an all-inclusive property, however, there was not going to be a quick walk into town and it did not appear that there was any kind of bus system.

Our first impression of the hotel was that it was neat, clean and well presented.  The lobby areas had plenty of seating and a large check-in desk.

The hotel staff was extremely pleasant and our room was ready at check-in.  Our room was far from luxurious and a little dated, but extremely clean and one of the largest I have stayed in, with a balcony, sitting area with a pull-out couch and bathroom divided into two parts, toilet and shower and sink/vanity area.

During check-in, I was informed that the restaurant behind the lobby bar, La Veranda, required reservations (which we had just missed making), but there was one other restaurant, El Cocal, the buffet, which was located outside between the two pools as well as the availability of room service and a snack bar adjacent to the poolside bar.  We decided to try El Cocal, that evening and made reservations for La Veranda for the next.

Over the course of our trip, we never did get to try room service, however, we much preferred La Veranda for dinner.  Breakfast at this locale was very good, however, the service was slow, so for the other two mornings, we dined at the buffet and also had lunch there and at the snack bar near the poolside bar.  Overall, our opinion is that breakfast and lunch should be taken at the buffet unless time is not of the essence.  Dinner should definitely be taken at La Veranda.

El Cocal
Dessert at La Veranda

A full list of activities (ping pong tournament, exercise classes, etc) for each day was located at the towel exchange and snorkel equipment (free for 1 hour of use each day or for a daily charge) and golf clubs were available for the on-site mini-golf…an entire 18 holes, which we played a few times…a very challenging course!  There was also a large-scale chess set located near the pool.

The pools were spacious and clean and a there was plenty of seating, however, the beach chairs that were not under the few thatched umbrellas were of a strange shape and collected rainwater.  A nice row of hammocks lay between the main pool and the beach and two jacuzzis were situated near the pools.  The beach area was a bit rocky and it would be best to wear water shoes to enter and exit the water.  We did attempt to snorkel, however, although there were quite a few fish,  the remaining reef was not in good shape.

Three bars were located on the premises, one in the lobby, one in the pool as a swim-up bar and one adjacent to the pool and the buffet.  The servers were always very friendly and eager to recommend new, delicious drinks.

Overall, the resort was good, though in desperate need of evening entertainment and activities.  Our main complaints, however, were concerning the location, wi-fi and the hotels elevators.

For those who prefer to always remain on the resort, its seclusion may be a plus, however, I enjoy having the ability to take public transportation to other areas of the city that we are staying in for shopping and sightseeing.  Yes, there were cabs, however, one-way cab fare to town, was about $10 and there was always a discrepancy between being quoted in pesos and dollars.  If we were quoted 100 pesos and you checked the daily conversion rate in U.S. dollars, that would have been about $6.00.  If you asked what the rate was in dollars, you would be told $10.00.

Another issue was the on-site car rental.  They realize that they have a captive audience.  Deciding to rent a car so that we could check out the island and some of the attractions, I was a shocked to hear that the car rental price was about $74.00 (after taxes for automatic transmission and about $10 less for manual transmission).  After checking out prices on line, I found that rental rates from the airport were about half that price.  Had I given this some forethought, it would have been about the same price to rent the car at the airport and keep it for the three days, as we also paid $17 each way to and from the airport.  With that option, we could have had a little more freedom.

Wi-fi was one of the the deciding factors for us.  Remembering our resort in Punta Cana and the high daily rate they charged for slow service, we decided that we did not want to be cut off from our family and friends.  What we learned, however, was that while wi-fi was advertised as complimentary, it was only available in the lobby and it was extremely slow.  We could text and look up information on the internet, however, we could not upload pictures to Facebook, Instagram and Snapchat.

The other major problem with this hotel was that while we were there, a tropical disturbance in the Gulf of Mexico was causing massive amounts of rain.  This was not the resort’s fault.  El Cozumeleño’s fault is that the elevators faced the outside and were subject to the elements.  Many times we found the elevators inoperable and were directed to the service elevator, which sometimes was also not working.  Being on the eighth floor, it was not always an option to be running up and down the stairs of which parts were open to the outside and were extremely wet.

A friend recently asked me for recommendations for all-inclusive hotels on Cozumel.  Would I recommend El Cozumeleño?  Overall, we had a nice time and for the price, it was a good deal as well as safe and clean.  Personally though, I think maybe I would try something a little different on a future trip, possibly on a different part of the island.  But, if you like seclusion and to be cut off from the world…this is your place!  If not, rent a car at the airport.

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El Cozumeleño

  • http://www.elcozumeleno.com/default.cfm
  • Address:  Playa Santa Pilar KM 4.5 Zona Hotelera Norte, 77600 San Miguel de Cozumel, Mexico
  • Shared ride service from the airport:  $17.00 US (for two persons)
  • Cab service from the hotel to the airport:  $17.00

A Walk in the Jungle

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Having visited San Gervasio archaeological site twice in the past, it was a place about which I could have said, “Been there, done that”.

Not me…

I love ruins and architecture.  So why would I not go back?

The largest and most important archaeological site on Cozumel is a sanctuary to Ixchel, the goddess of fertility and love.  Located in the center of the island in the middle of a lush jungle, populated with iguanas, flowers and foliage,  the site’s name was taken from the agricultural and cattle ranch, San Gervasio, founded by Mr. Gervasio Novelo on September 14, 1858.

The site’s original name is unknown, but its long history dates back to 100 BC and it continued into the late 16th century, with the arrival of  the Spaniards.

For the duration of San Gervasio’s existence, women have made the obligatory pilgrimage to pay tribute to Ixchel, “She Of the Rainbows”, deity of midwifery, fertility and women.

The site’s entrance is well-marked on Transversal Road, but once turning from the main road, the drive is long and narrow and marked with a speed limit that I think the iguanas could outrun.

A decent parking lot is available for those with rentals and a nice, attendant will keep an eye on your car…be sure, he will remember you and be standing nearby for his tip!

When entering the complex and paying your entrance fee of $4.50, you will first encounter a courtyard, with a few souvenir shops.  Since, I only had a rain slicker, we were trying to purchase a small umbrella for my son.  The shops only carried the long, curved handle type, for $10, which would have been impossible to bring home.  One of the shop owners, offered to lend us one, for a tip…actually a good deal for us and a smart move on her part.  How many times has this umbrella paid for itself?

Another tip I learned later was about bug spray…definitely bring your own.  My son is a mosquito magnet and I did not think of picking up some while in town.  The shop vendors were more than willing to sell us a very expensive can, which we did not purchase due to the size and cost.  Later, I learned that we could have asked for a spray down for a tenth of the cost of the can…something we should have definitely done for my son.

It is in this area that you can hire a guide to take you throughout the complex and the price for the both of us was $20, though we opted not to use this service. Restrooms are also located here and I recommend using the facilities before entering the site.

Before entering the actual archaeological site, you encounter another ticket counter.  I don’t understand the logic here…would you seriously pay just to enter the courtyard?  Anyway, here we paid $5 each and received our tickets.

The site is very well laid out, well marked and has sturdy paths to lead you from one area to the next in the front of the complex.

One of the first buildings you encounter is the The Little Hands Structure, so named because of the red colored hand prints that mark the wall.  The temple is comprised of two rooms in which a small temple was built in the interior of one of them.

Another small house-like structure is located nearby, although it is almost certain to have had a ceremonial use.  A small temple is also located in the center of the structure.

As we continued on, we encountered other small structures, but an impressive arch-like structure, which marked the intersection of two ancient roads  or sacbés, caught my eye.  In pre-hispanic days, The Arch Structure, was the entrance or exit of the central part of San Gervasio.  Pilgrims and traders would reach the famous sanctuary of Ixchel to make an offering at the altar that lies in the middle of the vaulted passageway.  It was here that many statues to Ixchel were found and are still being discovered.  One of the statues, a large ceramic image of Ixchel was believed to have delivered oracles spoken by a hidden priestess for pilgrims with questions.

From this point, we chose one of the two roads to either Pozo or Nohoch Nah.  The paved paths ended here and the road was rocky and a bit muddy from the recent rains.

Nohoch Nah, also known as the the Big House Structure, was quite an impressive one.  An altar in the middle of the enclosure, in which offerings were placed can be seen through the grated metal that covers the doorways.  Most archaeological sites prohibit you from standing on or climbing the structures, however, this one allows for climbing the stairs and walking around the formation giving you a distinct understanding of how the Mayans felt when they utilized the structure.

After a long and drizzly walk through the jungle, complete with massive puddles blocking the path, we soon arrived at Murciélagos y Pet Nah.  The Muciélagos and Round House Structures were the most important buildings in the Late Classic period in San Gervasio.  The principal center of the site was located here and it was also here that the Overlord resided.  The Round House was named as such due to the unusual rounded platforms and its altar which is also round. Again, we were able to climb to the top of the rounded platforms giving us a different perspective of Murciélagos.

After another long and muddy walk through the jungle, we soon arrived at the final area of San Gervasio, complete with four distinct structures.  The Palace Structure contained colonnaded halls most of which can still be seen standing on the foundation.   Though you were not prohibited from climbing the other structures, here, signs inform you that it is not allowed.

In this wide, grassy area, another structure, is the Ossuary,  The structure was aptly named after numerous human remains were found inside during exploration of the building.  The temple no longer exists, but originally had masonry walls and a a roof.

Another smaller structure also stands here in this area, Structure 25B, which was also another colonnaded hall with a masonry roof.   Different from other colonnaded halls, it only had three pillars with square bases and three columns with round bases.

Back to the smooth, paved walkways, we made our way toward the front of the complex returning our umbrella along the way.

Though San Gervasio is not quite as large as Chichen Itza or many of the other massive ruin sites in the Riviera Maya and has not had a lot of restoration, the numerous structures that can be viewed at close range amid the beautiful natural setting makes the off-the-beaten trek, worthwhile.

So…grab your sunglasses, umbrella and bug spray and your sense of adventure…head on over to San Gervasio.

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San Gervasio

  • http://www.inah.gob.mx/es/zonas/101-zona-arqueologica-san-gervasio
  • Address:  Kilómetro 7.5, Carretera Transversal, Centro, 77600 Cozumel, Q.R., Mexico
  • Hours:  Monday thru Sunday, 0800-1630
  • Admission:  $9.50
  • How To Get There:  By car, head north on Transversal Road from downtown Cozumel.  The entrance is well-marked.  If you are arriving by cruise ship, many taxis will take you to the ruins and wait for about $70 and return you to San Miguel or the cruise ship’s dock.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Vibrant Village

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Mayan ruins dot the landscape throughout Mexico.

On Cozumel, two archaelogical sites are easily accessible to tourists…

San Gervasio is the largest and located in the central part of Cozumel.

The smallest, but oldest, El Cedral, is located near the south coast.

Having never heard of El Cedral, we were anxious to check out this small fertility temple, dating back to 800 AD.  Once functioning as a jail in the 19th century, it is located in a small village and is thought to have been an important ceremonial site.

As we drove through the arched entrance, it was late afternoon and we wondered if our arrival might be too late.  Passing through a gate, we traveled down a long rural road before arriving at the front of the village.

A central plaza spread before us with a large, covered pavilion, lined with brightly covered flags.  A nearby covered structure contained a large number of inscribed benches and there were a few vendor’s storefronts as well as the Hacienda Tequila Museum, which offers tequila tastings.

Not seeing a ruin or signs directing us to one, we turned left and drove around the village.  What a treat!  Brightly colored houses, with festive crosses and art displays greeted us at every corner.

As we made the full circle, back to the front of the village, a kindly villager stopped our car to direct us to the location of the ruin and showed us a parking location.

Festive statues greeted us at the front of the pavilion and after walking through the pavilion, we found the temple located at the far, left end.  Not very impressive and having no ornamentation, the ruin sits next to the highlight of the village, a small stucco church, which is known to be the first church on the island, the Church of El Cedral.

The church, rather small and simple,  is light and airy although its seating does not appear to be very comfortable.  On the altar were three small garments that appeared to be draped over three crucifixes.  I was quite curious about these, but with no one nearby, I was unable to find out more.

Knowing that the large pavilion in the center of town houses a five-day festival, Féria El Cedral, which brings people from all over Mexico at the end of April or early May, to enjoy the festivities, I had no idea that these crosses had anything to do with it.

Once we had walked around the church, we returned to visit one of the the souvenir shops.  Here, I found out more.

Legend has it that 150 years ago, a young man by the name of Casimiro Cárdenas was attacked during the Caste War in the town of Saban.  Though the enemies killed his companions, Cárdenas survived the massacre by hiding under other bodies, while clutching a cross, an event which came to be known as the Miricle of Saban. So strongly that Cárdenas believed that the cross was the reason he survived that he vowed to honor the cross even as he later settled in El Cedral.  Soon after arriving in the town, he and the other immigrants celebrated the first services to honor the holy cross in which after praying, they received the toche (blessing with the cross).  Invitations were also extended to the residents of the main town of Cozumel, a tradition that still continues.

The pavilion is where the traditional and folkloric events are performed and many other events are held in conjunction with the festival…horse racing, rooster fights, rodeo, concerts and bullfighting.  Large quantities of food are prepared and consumed and commemorative merchandise is sold throughout the event.   The Pigs Head dance, in which dancers carry a decorated pig’s head, is one of the culminating events of the festivities.

After the death of Casimiro Cárdenas, his wife continued the festivities and today, his descendants are the keepers of the holy cross of Sabán.  The festival is held between April 23 with prayers commencing at dawn and end on May 3rd with a traditional dance “Cabeza de Cerdo”, symbolizing Jesus Christ’s sacrifice.

While making the drive around Cozumel, take a half hour out of your day to visit El Cedral, a town steeped in tradition and history.  Very easy to find, it is located 3 km west of Carretera Costera Sur.  The turnoff is near Km 17, across from the Alberto’s Restaurant sign.  And, if you are on the island during festival season, be sure and visit…and tell us about it!

 

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El Cedral Village, Church and Archaeological Ruins

  • Hours:  Open daily
  • Admission:  free
  • How to Get There:   Located 3 km west of Carretera Costera Sur.  The turnoff is near Km 17, across from the Alberto’s Restaurant sign.

Cruising Around Cozumel

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Some arrive in Cozumel by cruise ship.

Some by air.

Some by ferry.

No matter your method of transportation into Cozumel, make sure you’ve arrived by checking out all that the island has to offer!

My family and I have been to Cozumel many times over the years.  Most times we have arrived by ferry, a couple of times by cruise ship, but this time, my son and I arrived by air.  Honestly, I am a flight attendant and I should know these type of things, but I don’t think I realized that Cozumel had an airport…as I’ve only ever talked to people who have flown into Cancun and gone to Cozumel by ferry.

School had just let out and everyone in my family was busy with work and other obligations except for me and my youngest son.  An adventure was in order! We had no idea where we were going to end up.  We were going to go to the airport, with suitcases filled with clothing for any climate and get on a flight…any flight…and see where we could go.

After miraculously getting seats on an oversold flight to Atlanta, we had to devise a plan.  Grabbing breakfast and a seat at McDonald’s, we opened up my computer and began checking which flights from Atlanta had seats to and from the destination.  Sunny Cozumel was the winner!  (Or so we thought…) A few hours later, we were touching down at the Cozumel International Airport.  We couldn’t wait to lay by the pool and get some much need sun and relaxation.

To our dismay, no beautiful, sunny skies were there to greet us…only gray clouds and wet pavement.  How can this be?  We were arriving at a tropical destination…a resort…don’t they order up beautiful weather for the tourists?  Surely this was just a passing rain shower!

After arriving at our hotel, the El Cozumeleño, we donned our bathing suits and headed out to the pool.  It was raining again.  No good.  Time to pull up to the bar.

It continued to rain…all night…and after a text to my dad, I realized that because I don’t watch the news regularly, I had failed to comprehend that it was hurricane season and a tropical storm was causing havoc in the Gulf of Mexico.  Ugh…

The next morning, with high hopes, I pulled back the curtains in our room, hoping for sun.  Nope.  No sun again.  Those same gray clouds and a light rain greeted us.

Well, we were in Cozumel.  Rain or not, we were going to see what was out there, even if we had to buy umbrellas and rain slickers.  It was time to make the best of it!

After renting a Jeep Patriot (great for driving through floodwaters) we headed out.  Navigating the narrow streets, we drove slowly, through the pouring rain until we reached the main highway that cuts through the middle of the island (Transversal de Cozumel).  The rain had slowed and we were soon arriving at San Gervasio archaeological site.  Thankfully, the rain soon tapered off and we were able to spend some time investigating these interesting ruins.

Heading east again, we soon spotted the end of the road.  Only two ways to go…north or south.  Since we had been warned by our rental company that traveling on the dirt road to the north would void our rental contract, we decided that it was southbound for us!

This part of the island has some amazing beaches and breathtaking scenery and at the turn in the road, a very cool bar and restaurant…Señor Iguanas.  Years ago, I remember coming to this part of the island and there only being some small fisherman’s huts and small shacks that sold tacos and beer.  Although we would have loved to hang out at Señor Iguanas and enjoy the views, the ambiance and the forty mile per hours winds whipping through the establishment, we decided to get some food to go and continue on our way.  After all, we now had a break in the rain.

The waves were quite large and for a while, we stopped to watch a group of surfers ride the massive crests toward shore.  If there had been more of a gentle swell, my son would have considered taking a lesson at one of the many venues along the way that offer private instruction.

As we continued on, we stopped often to admire the spectacular coastline, shop at the many vendors that line the roadway and just enjoy our drive and time being away from the resort.

As we rounded the island’s southernmost tip, we headed west and made our way, past many resorts, to the village of El Cedral which boasts the first church on the island and a Mayan ruin.  I especially enjoyed driving around the town’s back streets…lots of cute homes and artwork line the streets!

With the rain still at bay, we drove through downtown (vowing to make our way here the next day for shopping), past a tall lighthouse and on to a place we had seen on our way to the hotel.

Bam No. 4 Military Base (Base Aérea Militar No. 4) offers some great photo ops with some old military planes displayed out front.  In addition, there is a war memorial, honoring some of the defenders of the nation.

Leaving our car parked in this location, we made the short walk back towards town to a small square located between the roadways.  Here, there is a replica of a Mayan temple with statues depicting ancient Mayans.

As the day was drawing to a close, we made our way back to our hotel and our dinner reservations, ever thankful that we were able to see what Cozumel had to offer even though the weather wasn’t up to par.

Pulling back into the El Cozumelena, with not a moment to spare, we parked our car as the skies opened up again and we made a mad dash inside!  Time to head to the bar…

Cozumel is a lovely destination for anyone who loves islands or is a diver or snorkeler (thousands of dive sites lie just offshore).  There are many delicious food options throughout the city and various types of shopping in the central plaza  and throughout the island.  And…if you run out of things to do in Cozumel, take the ferry (located downtown) right on over to the mainland and Playa del Carmen and the Mayan Riviera.  You will find many other things to do there as well!

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San Gervasio Archaeological Zone

Senor Iguanas

  • Address:  At the intersection of Transversal de Cozumel and Quintana Roo C-1

El Cedral

  • Address:  Off of highway Quintana Roo C-1, near Playa Palancar
  • Admission:  free

Bam No. 4

  • Address:  On Avenue Rafael E. Melgar, just past downtown, heading north
  • Admission:  free