No matter where you go in Italy, you will find celebrated cities filled with stunning architecture, monumental landmarks and bustling piazzas. Some cities are mere blips on the map and others more well known.
Having stayed in Venice so often and walked its alleys, crossed its bridges and traversed its canals, I felt as though it was time to venture out further and see those nearby cities, a brief train ride away.
On a recent trip, we had arrived in Venice much earlier than usual. Deciding to take advantage of this early morning accession, I checked the train schedules and decided to make the hour long journey to Verona.
Having studied the city’s map, I learned that there was so much to this city than its ties to Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet and I decided that I was going to navigate its streets and landmarks on foot, so that I could take in every detail.
Arriving at the city’s main train station, Porta Nuova, I set out to make my way to Verona’s historical center. Following my GPS’s directions, the first thing I encountered was Porta Nuova… Yes, I had just departed the train station, Porta Nuova, but there was another.
Built between 1532 and 1540, the city gate of Porta Nuova was built under the direction of architect Michele Sanmicheli, replacing the ancient Porta di Santa Croce, with the sideways of the gate being added by the Austrians in 1854.
The gate was constructed to encourage access to the city and I thought it befitting that it was the first thing I encountered when seeking out the historical section of Verona. Only one of two remaining gates in the city, it offered entrance from the south and was an important element of the city’s fortifications.
While, the gates’ arched doorways were barred off, I was able to look inside, through the openings and inspect the surrounding premises. The facade’s details have been restored and the structure is topped with the Italian flags.
The stop at Porta Nuova was not one I had planned, but rather merely encountered on my route to other attractions in the city center. However, it was a beautifully restored and maintained architectural piece of Verona’s past and I was glad that it was there to welcome me as it had done to countless others over the centuries.
If there was more like this to come…I couldn’t wait to see what else was in store!
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Porta Nuova
Address: Corso Porta Nuova, 1, 37122 Verona VR, Italy
On the famed Île de la Cité, visitors are drawn to the magnificent stained glass windows of Sainte-Chapelle and the medieval French Gothic cathedral, Notre Dame. Yet, another historic structure, La Conciergerie, just next door to Sainte-Chapelle, is often overlooked!
But why? Perhaps the average tourist does not realize the significance of the building situated on the Boulevard du Palais, only wanting to check the boxes of the most famous landmarks in the City of Lights. Or, maybe…they simply do not allocate enough time for a building they may think is only a judicial one…not one that dates back to the 6th century and played an important role in the French Revolution.
Located within a fortified complex on the Île de la Cité, in the Seine River, the impressive medieval palace, was built as an historic Gothic dwelling to house the Kings of France, beginning with King Clovis. In 1200, King Philip II then made the Palais de la Cite the royal seat of power, remaining so until the 14th century. At this time, it then took on a judicial role as the Kings of France vacated to settle in at the Louvre and Chateau du Vincennes. As a Palace of Justice, it saw the addition of prison cells and became a royal prison, chancellery and seat of Parliament.
During the French Revolution of 1789 and the period of “The Terror” (1793-1795), the palace held and tried many political prisoners, but it is one that it is most famous for. It was in La Conciergerie that the ill-fated Queen Marie Antoinette was detained in captivity until her execution, along with 2700 others.
Marie Antoinette’s fate, a guillotined beheading, was similar to most prisoners who spent time at the converted cells within the palace walls. The word “conciergerie” is a French term meaning, “lodging of a housekeeper” as it was looked after by the person left in charge of the palace in the absence of the King and was known as one of the worst prisons of the period. Very few prisoners made it out alive, succumbing to illness, neglect or the blade of the guillotine.
While a majority of La Conciergerie’s square footage is dedicated to courthouses and administrative buildings, a most important historical part is open to the general public and has been transformed into a museum.
Façade of the Palais du Justice
Having purchased a combination ticket with Sainte-Chapelle, we proceeded directly to the entry point on Boulevard du Palais once our tour of the holy chapel was complete. Since La Conciergerie still operates as a government building, we were guided through a security complex so that we and our belongings could be searched and run through metal detectors before being allowed access to the premises.
Since there are no guided tours, we were given a small tablet to aid in our navigation of the premises. As we entered the museum, we first moved through the Grande Salle (Great Hall), a palatial space reminiscent of its royal status as home to the kings and then on to the lower level, La Salle des Gens D’Armes (Soldier’s Hall). This massive space once served as an enormous dining room for palace workers and accommodated royal banquets and other formal occasions within its impressive 210 foot long area, divided by grand columns and vaulted 28 foot ceilings.
La Salle des Gens D’Armes (Soldier’s Hall)
The corridor of cells allowed for the understanding of the former prisoners’ living conditions. These dark and narrow cells with no furnishings, were not a place of luxury. While we gazed upon clean floors and felt the neutral climate from modern heating and air conditioning, it was certain that this place was once overrun with rats and other vermin and that prisoners suffered from both heat and cold and slept on the floor. By stark contrast, we were also privy to the small prison warden offices, complete with period furniture and more conveniences as well as the cells outfitted for wealthier prisoners.
Prison cells of La ConciergerieWarden’s office
A mural that shows the names of some individuals victimized by the Reign of Terror and imprisoned or tried at the Conciergerie. Their names are printed in different colors depending on their punishments, with those executed by guillotine shown in red. Other plaques and historical displays throughout the museum portion of the visit recount the history of the Revolution and the Reign of Terror, led by the infamous Robespierre.
Mural of prisoners’ names
Museum displays and artifacts
Finally, we traversed the stairs to the site of the cell of Marie Antoinette. The queen was held in this cell during the final two months of her life during the Reign of Terror. Here, the sanctuary, Girodins’ Chapel, was originally a place of worship that was then converted to a collective cell during the Revolution. After the Revolution, the “Expiatory Chapel” was built to atone for the queen’s execution and pay tribute to her and other royal figures executed during that time period. Nestled in the back of the chapel, there is a shrine covered with black walls, covered in silver tears. Located at the supposed site of the queen’s bed, a faux marble altar is decorated with a text to honor her memory and the last letter from Marie-Antoinette to her sister-in-law, Madame Elisabeth. Period furnishings show how her cell may have been decorated as in contrast to the less wealthy prisoners; she was given a bed, furniture and servants. A detailed reconstruction of her cell is available for inspection.
Girodins’ Chapel
Girodins’ Chapel(rear)
Expiatory Chapel
Re-creation of Marie Antoinette’s cell
Just outside of Girodins’ Chapel is the garden in the women’s courtyard. Here, female prisoners were allowed to wash their clothes in the fountain, walk around, and eat outside, a nice perk not afforded to the male prisoners.
The Women’s Courtyard
La Conciergerie is not a large museum but an important one and we completed our tour in a short time span. If you find time to traverse the Île de la Cité or visit Notre Dame (when reopened) or Sainte-Chapelle, take an extra hour to tour this interesting piece of Paris’ significant history. It may not have the views of the Eiffel Tower or the artwork of the Louvre, but it will give an understanding of the French Revolution and Marie Antoinette’s last days. While it is not the only site where you might see an actual guillotine blade, it might be the one worth remembering.
Guillotine blade on display at La Conciergerie
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LaConciergerie
Address: 2 Boulevard du Palais, 75001 Paris
Hours: 0930-1800, daily. Closed December 25 and May 1.
Admission: Adults, €11.50 (US$ 12.60), Under 18 years and EU Citizens (18 – 25 years old), free entry, Persons with reduced mobility and accompanying person, free entry. Free entry with Paris Pass and Paris Museum Pass. Free entry on the first Sunday of the month from November to March. Combined ticket with Sainte-Chapelle, €18.50
Getting There: Metro, Cité, line 4. Bus, lines 21, 24, 27, 38, 58, 81 and 85.
Visiting Paris with my, then 13 year-old son, many years ago, we had mentally prepared a list of things that we wanted to do and experience…the Louvre, Notre Dame, Montmartre, the Sacre Coeur and of course, the Eiffel Tower. Naturally, we hoped to add more to our list as we happened upon it and that’s kind of what happened with Sainte-Chapelle.
While waiting to pay our admission at the Arc de Triomphe, we spotted a poster-style sign on the wall advertising Sainte-Chapelle. I had vaguely heard of it prior to this trip, but it really wasn’t a place that we had allotted time for in our schedule. My son, however, was transfixed with the photo of the vivid stained glass windows and insisted that we could go.
Time was limited, but after our visit to the Arc de Triomphe, we dashed to the Metro and made it to the Île de la Cité with a little time to spare. Securing our entry tickets, we walked into an architectural and chromatic dreamland.
While the Gothic-style itself was mesmerizing, it was those stained-glass windows that had captivated my son and drew us here that took our breath away.
Walking through the Sainte-Chapelle, we admired the vividness of the soaring apertures that fill in the upper walls of the space and the golden accents, comprehensive statues, architectural details, rich colors and brightly lit chandeliers hanging from the vaulted ceiling. Albeit a spontaneous decision, we had made the right one.
Last spring, remembering this experience so fondly and after having toured Chateau de Vincennes’ Sainte-Chapelle earlier in the year, I decided to return while on one of my Parisian layovers.
The walk across the bridge to the Île de la Citéand Saint-Chapelle
Booking a ticket online, I arrived at my appointed time and made my way through the security checkpoint, through the courtyard and into the royal chapel. Indeed, it was as beautiful as I remembered it.
Waiting to get in
Entrance
Upper Chapel
Constructed around 1238 and consecrated ten years later, this residence of the Kings of France until the 14th century, is considered one of the highest Gothic architectural achievements of its time. Built by King Louis IX of France, to house his collection of Passion relics, including the Crown of Thorns, it is also one of the earliest surviving buildings on the Île de la Cité. Though damaged during the French Revolution, it was restored and contains one of the most extensive 13th century stained glass collections in the world, with over two thirds of its original glass remaining.
While Sainte-Chapelle is no longer a church, having been secularized after the French Revolution, it is still considered a royal chapel inspired by earlier ones in the realm. This one, with its two levels, equal in size, offered a place (upper level) to house the sacred relics and was reserved for the royal family and their guests. The lower level was used by the courtiers, servants and soldiers of the palace. Its large size was comparable to many of the other Gothic cathedrals in France.
As I made my way through the upper chapel, what struck me most, as it did before, was that most of the walls are mostly constructed of pillars and buttresses and the spaces between are almost entirely glass. On a sunny day, the color is almost blinding with so many panes catching the light. On this day, however, it was quite gloomy outside, but even then, the windows showed off their magnificence.
Upper ChapelUpper Chapel
The upper chapel was filled with visitors, all gazing skyward and I followed the walls and windows in order, using the laminated card (available in a variety of languages) to decipher what was each window’s theme…the New Testament (featuring scenes of the Passion, the Infancy of Christ and the Life of John the Evangelist) and the Old Testament (featuring scenes from the Book of Genesis, Exodus, Joseph, Numbers/Leviticus, Joshua/Deuteronomy, Judges, Jeremian/Tobia, Judity/Job, Esther, David and the Book of Kings). Created by three different ateliers you can spot the contrasting styles used in the artist’s creations. And finally, I stood before the great rose window, at the rear of the chapel, created and installed in the late 15th century. This window, is composed of eighty-nine separate panels, representing scenes of the Apocalypse and uses a different technique, giving it a brighter look.
Upper Chapel, Rose Window
Upper Chapel, King/Queen Alcove, Middle
After I had made my way through the crowded space, paying particular attention to the two small alcoves set into the opposite walls where the King and Queen worshipped (King, north side, Queen, south side), I proceeded down the stairway to the lower chapel. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, it was heavily decorated with sculpture, columns, murals and the fleur-de-lis emblem of Louis IX, especially on its vaulted ceiling. Whereas the upper chapel soared to great heights, the lower chapel’s ceiling was only 22 feet high, although, still offering its own beautiful stained glass windows, depicting scenes from the Virgin’s life.
Lower ChapelLower ChapelLower ChapelLower Chapel
After my exit from the chapel’s interior, I took a few moments, despite the drizzling rain that had begun to fall, to walk around the exterior and admire its Gothic architectural components. Since visiting Notre Dame is currently not possible since its devastating fire in 2019, this is a stunning substitute on the Île de la Cité.
Sainte-Chapelle exterior
While there are other important “copies” of Sainte-Chapelle throughout the world (Karlstejn Castle, near Prague, Hofburgkapelle, Vienna, Collegiate Church of the Holy Cross and St. Bartholomew, Wroclaw, Poland and Exeter College, Oxford) and you can see some of the early stained glass that was removed at the Musee de Cluny in Paris and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, I can not imagine not seeing this one in person and I was glad for my son’s inquisitiveness and persuasive skills many years ago.
It is truly a masterpiece like no other that should be on the top of every Parisian visitor’s list.
For me, two visits down and many more to come.
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Address: Sainte-Chapelle, 10, boulevard du Palais 75001 Paris
Hours: April 1-September 30, 0900-1900, October 1-March 30, 0900-1700. Last admission, 40 minutes before closing. Closed May 1, December 25 and January 1. Visit by confirmed time slot booked online.
Admission: Adult, 11.50€, 18 year old and under, free, 18-25 year old (European Union), free. Combined ticket with Conciergerie, Adult, 18.50€, 18 year old and under, free, 18-25 year old (European Union), free.
Getting There: Metro 4, station Cité, RER B ou C, station Saint-Michel, Métro 1,7,11, 14, station Châtelet. By Bus, Lines 21, 24, 27, 38, 58, 81, 85, 96 et Balabus, Stations Vélib’ à proximité.
Chaco Culture National Historic Site bears a unique title, one of the 20 least visited national parks in the US!
So why were we up early, making a three hour drive through unmaintained roads to hike through its boundaries?
For one, Bandolier National Park was closed due to the wildfires raging in the northern part of the state and Taos Pueblo had still not reopened since Covid restrictions were lifted. After spying pictures of this park and noticing its remoteness, I decided that it would be a perfect photo opportunity, make for an interesting blog post and a way to learn about the ancient Chacoan culture in this UNESCO World Heritage Site.
This national park gives insight to the engineering abilities of the ancestral Pueblo people of the southwest. The structures located in the park were built between 850 and 1250 in a remote canyon cut by the Chaco Wash. The structures were constructed of quarried sandstone bricks and timber hauled from great distances and during this time frame, the area was a major center of culture for the Puebloans. Fifteen major complexes make up the area and what remain are the largest building ever built in North America until the 19th century.
Our original plans had us spending this day in the Albuquerque area and driving to Chaco Canyon the next day, to hike and sight see before continuing on to Santa Fe. As I awakened early, however, I burrowed under my hotel sheets and pondered this agenda. We wanted to make it to Santa Fe in time to visit the new attraction Meow Wolf. There is nothing I hate more than not having enough time at an attraction and having to leave before I’m ready in order to meet a timeline and I was afraid that I wasn’t allowing enough time in Chaco Canyon. And…if we were not to make it to Meow Wolf, we would miss our opportunity since it was closed on the next day. After doing a bit of reading, I realized that there was much to see and do in Chaco Canyon that a couple of hours was not adequate.
A change of plans was in order.
This journey was beckoning our adventurous sides. It did not matter how long or hard! If the Chacoans could do it without modern conveniences, we could too.
Jumping into the shower, I informed my son of our new plan. Thankfully, he’s a flexible travel companion, quick to get ready, and we were soon on the Interstate 25 heading north.
The further we traveled, through desert and mountainous regions, cell service became more spotty and obsolete at times. Before all was lost, we made a call to the National Park for some specific directions, since we were a little unsure of the roads in this area. This proved to be a smart move! The ranger gave us detailed directions and even the good advice to fill up our car and purchase snacks at the nearby gas station before leaving the paved roads.
While I had anticipated rough roads, I wasn’t quite prepared for what we encountered. Twenty-one miles on a paved highway would take approximately 15-20 minutes, however, dirt, loose gravel, potholes and uneven surfaces kept us at about 20 miles per hour…you can do the math!
Finally, after the grueling, steering-wheel-clutching, teeth-gritting-when-we-hit-the-potholes drive, we spied the National Park entrance sign ahead and a paved road leading into the park. Success!
Entering the park, views of Fajada Butte
First stopping into the Visitor’s Center, we purchased a America the Beautiful Annual Parks Pass. As we would be visiting other parks within the state, it would definitely pay for itself. Quizzing the ranger for helpful advice, we then headed out to the parking lot to fill our water bottles at the cisterns and began our explorations along the Una Vida trail leading from the lot.
Visitor’s Center
Una Vida, only a mile long, gave us our first look at the type of structures and petroglyphs that we would be encountering throughout the park.
Una Vida Trailand Ruins
Una Vida Trail and Ruins
Una Vida Trailand RuinsPetroglyphs on Una Vida TrailPetroglyphs on Una Vida Trail
Refilling our water again, we headed out on the nine-mile loop road to the next stop, the Hungo Pavi trail. More structures dotted the landscape, but it was on the trail that we would find the Chacoan Great House (occupation AD 1000-1250s). Paved and dirt pathways ran throughout the site and we were able to examine these dwellings from extremely close proximity. This monumental public building is a good example of what Chacoan sites look like without excavations, covered in windblown sand and native vegetation, and consists of over 150 rooms, a great kiva (space used by Puebloans for rites and political meetings) and an enclosed plaza.
Hungo Pavi Trailand Ruins
Hungo Pavi Trail and Ruins
Hungo Pavi RuinsHungo Pavi Trailand Ruins
Our next stop was the Chetro Ketl trail, home to the second largest Chacoan great house, covering more than three acres and containing a great kiva and elevated kivas. The structures consists of two and three stories and an elevated plaza that stands twelve feet above the canyon floor. Along the way we also followed the Petroglyph trail which spanned the bottom of the cliff face between Chetro Ketl and Pueblo Bonito. Here, we spotted many petroglyphs etched onto the walls, some low and some so high it made you wonder how they reached these soaring elevations.
Chetro Ketl Ruins
Chetro Ketl Ruins
Chetro Ketl RuinsChetro Ketl Ruins
Chetro Ketl Trailand Ruins
Chetro Ketl RuinsPetroglyph Trail
The Pueblo Bonito trail is named after the beautiful structure located within its confines. This large complex, where we headed next, was unearthed between 1920 and 1927 by seven expeditions of the National Geographic Society and the Smithsonian Institution. According to the sign on site, over one hundred thousand tons of rubble and wind blown sand were removed to accurately reconstruct parts of the destroyed walls and match the ancient masonry. Located approximately 4.5 miles from the Visitor Center, it is the most important site in the canyon and worth the 0.6 mile roundtrip hike. Constructed from AD 850 to AD 1150 it was the center of all of the Chacoan universe.
Pueblo Bonito
A much larger compound than we had encountered thus far, we walked around its perimeter, comparing its size to the massive boulders that had fallen from the mesa beyond. Climbing these boulders, we had a bird’s eye view of the interior of Pueblo Bonito.
Pueblo Bonito Trailand RuinsPueblo Bonito RuinsPueblo Bonito Trailand RuinsPueblo Bonito Trailand RuinsView of Pueblo Bonito Ruins from top of boulders
Along this trail, we encountered a sign directing us to the Wetherill Cemetery. While from this point, it was only a quarter mile hike, we learned later, that there was a parking area up the road which would have provided a much shorter walk. Only one grave was located here, that of Richard Wetherill, an amateur archaeologist who discovered, researched and excavated sites associated with the ancient Pueblo people. Fascinated by the ruins and artifacts of the Southwestern United States, Wetherill was credited with the excavation of Pueblo Bonito. He was murdered during a mysterious circumstances by a Navajo in Chaco Canyon in 1910.
Wetherill Cemetery
Returning to Pueblo Bonito, the trail brought us around to the front of the complex and through parts of its interior. Judging by the small doorways, these ancient people must have been of a smaller stature and we were mesmerized for the still intact wood beams still in place. The most interesting part of the entire complex was an interior room with its wooden walls and ceiling still unscathed.
Pueblo Bonito Ruins
Pueblo Bonito Ruins
Pueblo Bonito Ruins
Pueblo Bonito Ruins
Pueblo Bonito Ruins
Pueblo Bonito Ruins
Pueblo Bonito Ruinswith original wood wallsPueblo Bonito Ruins
Pueblo Bonito Ruins
Skipping Casa Rinconada, we next headed to Pueblo del Arroyo, about a mile up the road. The 1/4 mile roundtrip trail brought us to another Chacoan Great House (occupation 1075-1250s). Planned and constructed in two stages, the architecture found here lacks a great kiva and earthen mounds, however, typifies the pueblo architecture found throughout the area.
Pueblo Del Arroyo Trail and RuinsPueblo Del ArroyoRuinsPueblo Del ArroyoRuinsPueblo Del Arroyo Ruins
Pueblo Del Arroyo Ruins
Pueblo Del Arroyo Ruins
It was now getting to be late afternoon and there was still so much more to see. Realizing that we had made the correct decision to devote this entire day to Chaco Canyon, I quickly calculated that although making it a long day, we could conceivably depart from the park between 6:00 and 6:30pm, have dinner along the way and still make back to our hotel at a semi-decent hour.
There was still a trail that we wanted to follow, but we were concerned about making it back in time to follow our new itinerary. This trail passed near Kin Kletso, another great Chacoan House (occupied from AD 1100 to 1150s). There were some interesting petroglyphs here, but we hesitated for a moment because to take this trail up to the top of the mesa, we needed to register. After talking with another couple of hikers, who assured us that we had enough time and that we could register at the top of the trailhead, by filling out a form, leaving half in the box and half on the dashboard of our car, we set off.
Kin Kletso TrailKin Kletso RuinsKin Kletso Trailand Ruins
Heading on the Pueblo Alto trail, we hoped to reach the Pueblo Bonito Overlook. The trail, a total of 2.6 miles, reaches the overlook at .75 mile. If we could reach the overlook, we would then recalculate our time. But first, the beginning of the trail had me rethinking if I was capable of making it to our destination. The trail wound up the side of the cliff, giving us great views of Kin Kletso, but I was a little hesitant of looking anywhere but in front of me. Next, we discovered that we had to make our way through a narrow path, between the cliff walls, straight up. Not wanting to let my son down, I persevered and even enjoyed myself, discovering the beautiful flowers, fossils embedded in the stone, shrimp burrows and other landmarks along the way. From the top of this mesa, the view of the canyon was stunning.
Pueblo Alto Trail, overlook to Kin Kletso (middle left and bottom right), trail through slot canyon (top right)Fossilized shrimp burrows in the rockCanyon views from atop the mesaAlong the Pueblo Alto trailTo the end of the Pueblo Alto trail and views of Pueblo BonitoView of Pueblo Bonito from Pueblo Alto trail
When we reached the Pueblo Bonito overlook, I had to admit that it was worth the intimidating climb! With Pueblo Bonito spread out below us, it was much easier to see from above what we could not fathom while walking through the complex!
Checking our watches, we discovered that we had actually made pretty good time, so we decided to follow the Chacoan Road for a little ways. There were two additional structures that we were able to spot from afar, but sadly, if we were going to make our departure window, we had to turn back. Along the cliff’s edge we retreated, back through the narrow canyon, gingerly stepping from one rocky stair to another, past Kin Kletso and back to the cool confines of our car.
Along the Chacoan Road, ruins afarDesert sceneryBack thru the slot canyon and to the main road
Another quick trip to the Visitor’s Center to grab more water and we were on our way back to Albuquerque. While the trip on the unpaved roads seemed shorter as we were now familiar with its length, it was still harrowing, praying we didn’t pop a tire or break an axle. As we approached paved roads and civilization, the late summer sun was illuminating the nearby mountains, giving us quite the show of fiery reds and oranges!
As we arrived back to Albuquerque close to 9:00 p.m., during the midst of a lunar eclipse, I realized that while we were extremely tired from the six hours we had spent in the car, the sun and all of the hiking in the park, we had made the right decision.
Chaco Culture National Historic Site absolutely warrants enough time to see everything that if offers. Maybe it is one of the least visited, but we can say we did!
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Address: Mailing address, PO Box 220, Nageezi , NM 87037
Hours: 0700-sunset, daily
Admission: Vehicle entrance fee, $25.00 USD for 7 days (includes all persons traveling in one private, non-commercial vehicle (car/truck/van). Motorcycle entrance fee, $20.00 USD for 7 days. Individual entrance fee, $15.00 for 7 days.
Traveling with my friend Cristina is always a treat…she’s one of those few people that I can plan a trip with and expect to see everything that the city has to offer. She has as much energy as I do and always has an idea for something fun! Together, we are a traveling force to be reckoned with!
Last fall, while working a trip to Milan, we decided that we should take a day trip to a neighboring city. Scouring the map, we looked for cities that were an hour or an hour and a half away and that offered numerous sites and a city center with easy access to the train station.
Stumbling upon a cool little video about the city of Lodi, we decided that this would be our destination. With only a thirty-minute train ride (a bonus!), a beautiful Piazza and plenty of churches, it looked like there would be plenty to keep us occupied that afternoon.
Heading to Milan’s Centrale Station, we hopped on a train and struck up conversation with a young woman heading toward Bologna. She had been to Lodi and insisted that we would enjoy our excursion, especially since it was one of those no-cloud-in-the-sky warm fall afternoons.
Thirty minutes later, bidding our new friend Arrivederci, we jumped off the train and made our way toward the city center. Spying some unique architecture and passing through Passeggio Federico I Park and its many monuments, we happened upon the Porta Cremona, a monumental gate which also pays tribute to the fallen of the Great War fought in Lodi, Italy.
Passeggio Federico I Park
Porta Cremona
Porta Cremona
Gazing wistfully at the locked Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, we continued on knowing that there was much that awaited us only a few blocks away.
Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie
Heading north, we chatted as we passed numerous churches, intriguing alleyways and interesting art and architecture. Reaching the Napoleon Bonaparte bridge, which spans the Adda river, we stood on its pedestrian walkway gazing out at its muddy waters and the beautiful villas lining its banks. This bridge played an important role in the Battle of Lodi, during the French Revolutionary War, on May 10, 1796, when the French forces, under Napoleon’s rule, went head-to-head with Austrian forces, led by Karl Philipp Sebottendorf. While Napoleon was successful in this campaign, it was not a decisive battle, but one that led Napoleon to believe that he was superior to other generals and destined to achieve great things. A couple blocks from the river we found an interesting statue of Napoleon Bonaparte and a commemorative plaque.
Sights in LodiNapoleon Bonaparte bridge, spanning the Adda river
As we continued our walk, we discovered a quaint little courtyard filled with plates decorating the walls. Not sure if it was attached to an artist’s studio, it was fun looking at all the displays. There were lots of little shops and cafes along the way, many closed for a few hours in the afternoon, but the best one was Gelateria Umberto. Who can resist a couple of scoops of gelato in the afternoon? Not me!
Shops of Lodi
Gelato snack!
San Felippo Neri Church
Archway over Corso Umberto I
Finally, we made it to the Piazza della Vittoria (Victory Square), where the Lodi Cathedral (Duomo) takes the center stage.
Lodi Cathedral
Founded in 1158, the cathedral was completed in two phases, the second, being carried on from 1170 and the façade being completed in 1284. The brick entrance that faces the Piazza is Gothic in style, however, the overall building is Romanesque with a massive bell tower which was left unfinished.
Lodi Cathedral Entrance
As we entered the massive church, the largest in northern Italy and seat of the Bishop of Lodi, we were amazed with how much there was to see within its walls. Looking down the nave toward the altar, there were two staircases on either side. At the back of the church there were multiple tombs and along each wall, multiple side chapels, the most impressive being a simple niche containing a 15th century, full-size wooden depiction of Christ, his disciples and his blessed mother, Mary. The church is also connected on the left to the Bishop’s Palace and a court which is the remaining part of a cloister dating back to 1484.
Lodi Cathedral
Lodi CathedralLodi CathedralLodi Cathedral
Lodi Cathedral
Lodi CathedralLodi Cathedral
Up the right-hand staircase, we found the entrance to the crypt, which features a 12th century bas-relief and is the oldest section of the cathedral. In the center of the crypt is an altar dating back to 1856, which houses the remains of Saint Bassianus in a beautifully bedecked silver case. On the left-hand side of the high altar is the altar of Saint Alberto Quadrelli, Bishop of Lodi from 1168 to 1173.
Bishop’s Palace
Court remains of 15th century cloister
Once our explorations of the cathedral were complete, we headed back into the Piazza, formerly known as the Piazza Maggiore until 1924. The town hall is located here as well as the Vistarini Palace, one of the most beautiful in the city. Porticos which protect cafe tables from the sun and the elements, line the edges of the square and it is quite colorful and scenic. It is definitely the heart of the city today where the residents meet for conversation, children play games and the local market is held on Tuesdays and Thursdays in contrast to the fairs, festivals and executions which took place during Medieval times. As countless bishops have traversed the square over time, it even saw the arrival of Pope John Paul II in 1992.
Piazza della Vittoria
Piazza della Vittoria
Vistarini Palace
Spying another tall bell tower down one of the streets branching off of the Piazza, we set off on foot attempting to find what lay beneath. While the church we found was closed, our curiosity led us to an even greater discovery, Il Templo dell’Incoronata.
Chiesa di Santa Maria del SoleSights in LodiSights in LodiTempio delle Incoronata
At the end of the 15th century, a brothel with a painting of an image of the Virgin Mary was located in the area known today as via Incoronata. It is said that in September of 1487, the image of the Virgin Mary wept and called on those present to build a temple dedicated to her on that site…Tempio delle Incoronata or the Temple of the Crowned.
Tempio delle IncoronataEntrance
Tempio delle Incoronata(Rear View)
With the assistance of all citizens of Lodi, the Temple of the City was erected and became one of the most beautiful buildings of Renaissance Lombardy. Started in 1488 by Giovanni Battagio, a pupil of Bramante, it was completed in 1503, by Lorenzo Maggi, and a portico was added in the late 15th century and the loggia in 1882. It was through two small doors in the portico that we entered, only because we were being nosy when we saw other tourists exit. Walking a short distance thru a small, dark hallway, our inquisitiveness was rewarded with one of the most spectacular church interiors that we had both ever laid eyes on.
Tempio delle IncoronataTempio delle IncoronataTempio delle IncoronataTempio delle Incoronata
The octagonal space was surrounded by arches on the lower level, an altar and an octagonally domed ceiling all highlighted by copious amounts of gilt. Every space not covered in gold was decorated with paintings, most completed by three generations of the Piazza family, who were founding the most prestigious painting school in Italy. It was almost indescribable! The only disappointing part was that we were not there on Sunday when the underground space below the monumental sacristy is open to the public. In this museum space, there are three different rooms housing rare and unique works of sacred art and objects attesting to the importance of the sanctuary.
Tempio delle IncoronataTempio delle Incoronata
Giddy with excitement, we headed back out into the city, taking a roundabout route back to the train station. Spotting the Church of San Lorenzo, we ducked inside, perhaps to say a few prayers for our expeditious return to Milan since we were hearing rumblings of a train strike.
Church of San Lorenzo
The city’s oldest church, after the cathedral, was built in the 12th and 13th centuries. A typical Romanesque-style church, we noticed an image of Saint Lorenzo, above the altar, to whom the church is dedicated. There were several works of art within the church and beautiful architectural details including the apse above the choir with 16th century stucco adornments by Abbondio da Ascona and a fresco of a Resurrected Christ by Callisto Piazza.
Church of San LorenzoChurch of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Glancing at our watches, we noted the time and set off once again, finding ourselves in the Piazza di Castello. The Visconti Castle spread out before us, including the Torrione di Lodi (Tower of Lodi). The castle was founded in the 12th century by a member of the Visconti family, the Lord and Dukes of Milan who in the 13th and 14th centuries took possession of and then rebuilt the original fortification. In 1456, Francesco Sforza added a round tower to the northern corner of the castle which eventually (20th century) was converted to a water tower. It has since become a landmark of Lodi greeting those who arrive into the city. Today, the castle is the seat of the Questura of Lodi, the local office of the Italian Ministry of the Interior. As we studied the exterior of the castle, we realized that we would have liked to have seen more of it, however, it is not open to the public and even if it had been, we had that train to catch!
Piazza di Castello
Visconti Castle and Torrione di Lodi (Tower of Lodi)
Walking quickly, we headed to the train station. Catching sight of the pink-hued building with its statue dedicated to Amatori Wasken Lodi, the city’s roller hockey team(yes, really…), and the time on the station’s clock, we knew that we had made it in time to get back to Milan for our dinner reservation!
Lodi Train Station and statue dedicated to Amatori Wasken Lodi
While Lodi had not been on our radar as one of the Italian cities we wanted to visit initially, we were so glad that we had found that video prior to our trip which was the inspiration for a wonderful day. Being so close to Milan was a bonus, but the biggest reward was the multitude of attractions that the city has to offer and getting to share it with my friend, Cristina!
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Returning from Montenegro the night before, we met up with a couple of friends who were also on vacation, for dinner and drinks. They had arranged to do a boat tour of the nearby islands with a gentleman who had been taking many of my co-workers out for an afternoon in the sun.
When I had confirmed my Airbnb with Antonia, our host, she asked on what airline and what time we would be arriving. Giving her this information, I didn’t mention that I worked for the airline, but she volunteered that her husband had been taking out the crews on his boat. Amazingly, it was the same person who had taken out my friends! His name was Ivusa!
As we enjoyed cocktails, they raved about what an amazing experience it was. At that precise moment, deciding that we also needed this experience, I texted Antonia and asked her if Ivusa could take us out when we returned to Dubrovnik in six days.
The next morning, as we packed our car and readied for our departure to Bosnia and Split, Ivusa came out and introduced himself. A friendly guy, we discussed our travel plans and plans for our return the next weekend. Having heard of our rental car woes, Ivusa, probably worried that we would get off on the wrong foot, graciously offered to drive our car up the hill. Thank goodness!
Saying goodbye, we prepared ourselves for the long day ahead.
We had planned to make our way to Mostar and Medjugoria, Bosnia and then continue on to Split, where we would spend two nights in the Diocletian Palace. Checking the route, we determined that while the GPS routing was through the mountains, we felt like we should take a secondary route which hugged the coastline until we reached the town of Neum. Besides, it would be more scenic!
Starting our trip, we drove along, enjoying the stunning views. Finally, our GPS began directing us to take a turn. Following the commands, we drove towards Neum, but instead of the original routing, it had us follow another road. Not anything that seemed like a major highway, we hesitantly followed the directions. Next thing, we ended up on a dirt road, heading up a mountain. The road narrowed and as I studied the GPS map, I realized that if we continued on this passage, we were going to cross into Bosnia. Yes, that was the intent, but there was no way that there was going to be a border crossing on the side of a mountain and we risked crossing illegally. Not wanting to be wanted in another country, we decided that we should turn around…this was no small feat. The road we were on was extremely narrow and dropped off precariously on our left. Somehow…and to this day, I am not sure how…we got the car turned around and didn’t look back.
Our luck with this rental car had not been good so far and we had lost so much time following the GPS instructions, we decided that continuing on to Split would be best for us. Finally, making it back to the coastal road, we eventually crossed into Bosnia and then back into Croatia. I even jumped out of the car and stood for a moment, so that I could say that I had been in Bosnia!
Hercegovacko-Neretvanski, Bosnia
The drive to Split was extremely long and aside from a stop in Neretva, Croatia, to enjoy the lake views of the Valley of Life, we plodded along, praying to get there in one piece and return the car.
Neretva, Croatia, The Valley of LifeNeretva, Croatia, The Valley of Life
After an agonizing five hours of driving, we made it to the Split Airport. We can’t stress enough how relieved we were to hand over the keys to the car and have someone else do the driving for the rest of our trip!
Scenes along the way.
With a short Uber ride to the old part of town, we could finally breath a sigh of relief and relax for a moment. During the day, I had been in contact with the Airbnb owner and she was expecting our arrival.
As we were dropped off at the entrance to Diocletian Palace, I looked around and wasn’t sure where to head. Although I had marked the apartment’s location on my map, it was quite confusing as we made our way through Diocletian’s Palace. Finally, as we stood between Saint Domnius Cathedral and the Silver Gate, glancing frantically around, trying to figure out which way to turn, I heard my name. Thankfully, Ines had come to look for us and two people looking confused with suitcases was enough to convince her that she had the right people!
Walking thru the Peristyle, looking for our apartment.Where Ines found us!
Leading us into a nearby building, I noticed right away, the peeling paint and the newly built, but unfinished, stairway. It was only two nights, right?
But, when we reached the apartment on the topmost floor, I remembered why we had booked this particular unit. It was absolutely stunning and overlooked the Cathedral of Saint Domnius. After giving us a brief tour, Ines explained that because of the apartment’s location within the Diocletian Palace, a UNESCO Heritage Site, all renovations have to be approved by the government. While nothing can be done to the exteriors of the building and not much to the stairwells, more can be done to the interior, within their guidelines. Therefore, while almost everything within the apartment was new, the interior stone walls were original to the palace…dating back to the fourth century! When they say, “If Walls Could Talk!”
Peristyle Emperor Suite
View outside our window!
Finally on our own, we quickly unpacked and headed out to see what we could within the city in the waning afternoon. Saving the Cathedral for the next day when we had more time, we eventually ended up on the Riva, the bustling waterfront and boardwalk. Grabbing a couple of beers, we also grabbed a seat and enjoyed the close of our day with the setting sun.
The RivaSunset along the Riva.
Walking back through the palace, we enjoyed the live music being performed in the Peristyle and discovered that it could be heard perfectly from the opened windows of our apartment. And after dinner, this is what we did…enjoyed our VIP seating and the beautiful music on our first night in Split.
The Peristyle at night.Nighttime in Diocletian’s Palace.
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Walking along the Manzanares River in Madrid, especially on a beautiful day, is a real treat as many landmarks and parks sit on or near its banks.
As I left the Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida, I decided to make my way to the Chapel of the Virgin of the Harbour which lies a short distance away, in the shadow of the Royal Palace of Madrid.
Walking along the Paseo de la Florida, I neared the metro station of Principe Pio and spotted a large structure in the middle of the traffic circle.
The San Vincente Gate.
Curiosity had me whipping out my phone to see what information I could find on this interesting piece of architecture. What I found, however, was more interesting than I anticipated.
While Madrid is filled with many historic architectural features, this was not one of them!
In 1726, a structure, commissioned by the Marques de Vadillo, stood in this area. Consisting of three giant arcs topped with a figure of San Vicente, the gate was also known as Puerta de Florida. Standing for about fifty years, it was then demolished to make way for much needed roadways. In 1775, King Carlos III, contracted Francesco Sabatini to design a new gate, closer to the river. Built of granite and limestone, it featured two shutters and an arc, Doric columns and military symbols. Unlike the first one, it stood for over two hundred years…but much like the first, it too was disassembled in the 1980s for traffic renovations.
In 1992, a proposal was passed by the City Council of Madrid approving an exact replica of the original 1775 gate. Original molds were used to construct the single arch and two blind apertures, decorated with two Doric columns and two pilasters in its interior.
Risking life and limb to make my way through the traffic zooming around the traffic circle, I crossed the roadway to get a closer look. What I thought was part of the gate, I quickly realized was remaining Christmas lighting, set within the openings of the the arches. The sun was low in the sky, highlighting the structure and I noted that if I stuck around for a couple of hours, I might get to see these holiday lights enhancing the structure.
If I wanted to get to the Chapel of the Virgin of the Harbour, however, I needed to make haste, so off I went, walking along the Paseo de la Virgin del Puerto. Many people were out due to the unseasonable warmth and I grew excited as I spotted the spires of the chapel in the distance.
Noting its unique appearance, I thought that it reminded me of a German palace. I approached from the rear, appreciated the sun’s rays highlighting the beautiful towers and roofline.
This chapel was built between 1716 and 1718 by Pedro de Ribera and is one of the first examples of baroque architecture in Spain. It was damaged by missiles in 1936, during the Spanish Civil War, which left only the walls and the octagonal dome. In 1945, it was proclaimed a national monument and reconstruction was begun by architect Carlos Mendoza. The church was reopened in 1951.
On this day, however, it was not open. I had read that it was often closed to the public and the best time to obtain access was immediately after masses of which I had hoped there would be one during the afternoon. I had hoped that it might arrive just at that time, however, it was locked up tight and I realized that the only afternoon masses were on Saturdays. Sad, considering that in the interior, you can see the tomb of Marquis Vadillo…yes, that same Marquis responsible for the San Vicente Gate, which I had just visited. What a coincidence!
While my visit to the chapel was a bit of a bust, I did get to get up close and personal to the Gate of San Vicente and learn that the chapel houses the remains of the person responsible for this gate. So, although I didn’t quite get to do what I had set out to, I learned a little bit about something unique in Madrid.
And that’s what visiting a city is all about…discovery!
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When your time is limited in a city, it is imperative to have multiple plans because you never know…websites have incorrect hours, the lines are too long to get into your intended destinations or you happen to sleep too long.
On this particular day, I had plans to visit the Pantheon of Illustrious Men. It was some distance from my hotel and it closed at 3:00 p.m, so I knew that when I laid down for a quick nap, it had to be just that…quick.
So, what do you think happened?
Yes, I slept a little too long.
On this day, however, I had broken my cardinal rule. There was no Plan B, C, D, E or even F.
As I rushed to get ready, I ran through list of attractions, churches and museums in the area. Temple of Debod came to mind and I thought I would head that way to see what I would find.
It was a beautiful day and I headed on foot in the direction of the Temple of Debod. I didn’t remember that it was a place where you could enter the building; I had only remembered that it was in a park. Yet, when I arrived, there was a line formed waiting for entry.
“Okay, is this worth it?” I asked myself, looking at the empty water basins that make up the monument. I remembered walking by in the past, and it was quite lovely, but waiting an extraordinary amount of time due to Covid spacing requirements for entry, didn’t seem like a productive way to spend my shortened afternoon. Quickly taking a look at my Google maps, I realized that I wasn’t extremely far from the Real Ermita de San Antonio de La Florida (The Royal Chapel of St. Anthony of La Florida).
A few years ago, I had dragged a couple of my coworkers to this small church before taking a ride on the Teleferico en Rosales. I didn’t remember much about it except that it was extremely famous for its interior painting.
Walking through the Parque de la Montaña and near the Rosaleda del Parque del Oeste, I enjoyed the warmth of the winter afternoon. Finally, crossing the brightly bedecked pedestrian walkway above the train tracks, I found myself at the rear of the church.
Though it wasn’t extremely far, it had taken about 45 minutes and it suddenly dawned on me that it could be closed. I also suddenly remembered that there had been no photography allowed when I had first visited…oh brother…this afternoon was surely going to be a bust!
Oh well, I was here.
Walking toward the front of the church, I found a sign directing me to the entrance on the right. There was no one to greet me and I made my way through the hallway and right into the church, where I found two other visitors, eyes trained on the ceiling. Following their lead, I looked upward and remembered what this church was famous for.
Goya.
Okay, so I had moved on to Plan G. Plan Goya.
In the late 17th century, a chapel, devoted to St. Anthony of Padua, had a great many devotees, especially those of women without future matrimonial prospects. To this day, it still hosts of a pilgrimage, held on June 13, that is attended by young adult women who hope to be married.
The chapel was eventually demolished and relocated to the estate of La Florida. King Charles V ordered the construction of the new chapel between 1792 to 1798 and commissioned painter Francisco de Goya to adorn its vaults with a series of frescoes. Goya, aware of the importance of this chapel to its devotees took great care with his creation and these frescoes ultimately became some of the greatest of his masterpieces.
Due to its importance to the city of Madrid and to Spain, in 1905, the chapel was declared a National Monument and Francisco de Goya’s remains were moved here in 1919 from Bordeaux (where he had died in 1828). In order to preserve the original as a museum, an identical chapel was built beside it, in 1928, for worshipers.
As my eyes moved around the room, I was entranced by the muted movement within each series. These frescoes, depicting the miracles of St. Anthony of Padua, were painted over six months time during which Goya developed many new techniques that he went on to incorporate into his art going forward. The most captivating series, however, are within the dome and depict Saint Anthony raising a man from the dead and absolving his father who had been falsely accused of his murder.
Take a moment to sit on one of the benches, prepare for a neck ache and take it all in.
As I did this for a while, my neck spasms then began. Moving around, I then took in the two altarpieces painter by Jacinto Gómez Pastor, on each side of the rectangular Greek cross-plan chapel, as well as a gold cherub chandelier dropping from the dome. At the front of the chapel, I admired the crucifix, within the apse, decorated with angels and fronted by Goya’s tomb.
The chapel is and contains one of Madrid’s most spectacular treasures and it is a place that all visitors should seek out. Best part for me? Photographs are now allowed!
As I always like to suggest to people, “head on over,” to places that I recommend, I think that in this case it takes on an interesting connotation here.
When Goya’s remains were to be brought to Madrid, the French officials realized that his head had gone missing. Madrid’s response?
“Bring him home, even headless!”
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Address: Glorieta San Antonio de la Florida, 528008
Hours: Daily, 0930-2000, Closed Monday. Summer hours, from June 15-September 15, 0930-1400, Tuesday to Friday. Saturday, Sunday and public holidays, 0930-1900.
Admission: free
Guided tours (conducted in Spanish and English, with prior booking by calling 91 542 07 22, from 9:30 to 20:00.
Across the James River, less than half a mile from the Belmead mansion, lies St. Francis de Sales.
Sad, neglected and slowly succumbing to the passage of time.
Built by enslaved people in the 1800s, the Belmead plantation was eventually converted to both a school for boys, St. Emma Military Academy, housed in the Belmead mansion and St. Francis de Sales School for Girls which offered educations for Native and African American students. These schools were established by Mother Katherine Drexel, a former heiress and socialite who devoted her life to the church and later went on to become one of only two American Roman Catholic saints. The girl’s school was named for Drexel’s father, Francis, and often referred to as Castle Rock…a castle to the girls that resided there and a foundation (rock) for their futures.
Both schools were closed in 1970 and since this time, the buildings have fallen into disrepair.
Visiting with a tour organized by local photographer John Plaschal, I had already done a full exploration of the Belmead mansion and its surrounding property. I headed to St. Francis de Sales, having to take the long way around with the James River bridge outage. Parking in the lot adjacent to the former school, I made my way through the opening in the gate, heading to the front of the building. The back was a bit lackluster, but it was the Gothic facade was what I wanted most to see.
Part of the front of the building had collapsed in the past few years and this made for some interesting photography, but the part I was most excited about was the church. With its arched doorway, capped with a splendid stained glass window and statue of its namesake, St. Francis de Sales, it was breathtaking. Creeping vines covered the façade, some still in bloom, and an occasional window was shattered, allowing the outside to venture in.
Waiting my turn, I finally entered the doorway. The narthex was enclosed by a low barrier and I had to be content to view the entire church from this viewpoint. It was obvious that mass had not been celebrated here in some time. There were two pews in front of the altar which appeared to be waiting for the worshipers of the past. The vaulted ceiling rose above and it looked as if great portions of it had fallen, leaving only the beams visible. What I loved most, however, were the colorful stained glass windows, visible on the left side of the church.
An agreement had been made with the current owner to allow visitors to venture no further than this point, due to the current state of the property. It was sad, as I would have liked to inspect each part of the church more intimately and especially to look back towards the choir to see the light filtering through the stained glass window above the doorway.
Walking completely around the building, I paid attention to the numerous architectural details while making my way toward the former art studio. The doorway was open and I spied blank chalkboards, empty shelves and tables and chairs covered in the crumbling debris from the aged ceiling.
The back of the building was in especially atrocious shape with the right side collapsing from the main structure. I was able to make my way closer, however, to see the balconied areas and vine-covered entrance. The rusty fire escapes still clung to the back of the building and I could only imagine the occasional student’s attempts to venture out using these dilapidated steps when curfew was upon them.
Following the path behind the school, I inspected the tall chimney and an abandoned building. An old gas pump stood neglected in the weeds nearby and I wondered if equipment used at the school was stored there at one time.
Continuing on the path through the woods, I admired the changing leaves and tall trees that lined the path. Eventually, I encountered a low wall, a landmark that I had been instructed to look for. Just beyond, I found the small, humpback bridge that crossed the small creek. I photographed every angle, even stepping down into the creek bed to see it from below, while the water coursed past my feet.
My journey back to the main building seemed much quicker and I sought out some of the other buildings on the property. Finally, eyeing the darkening sky, I jumped into my car and made my way to the main road. There was, however, a stop I had to make along the way.
The nun’s cemetery.
John, aware of my love of cemeteries, insisted that I visit on my way out and described the landmarks that I needed to navigate the area successfully. Pulling my car over to the shoulder, I headed into the darkening forest.
Now, I have watched enough scary movies to ask myself, “Why are you going into the forest…at dusk…by yourself…looking for a cemetery?”
Still, I ventured on, finding what then made sense as I saw it…a tree tunnel. Well, it was more like evergreen bushes trained to grow into a shape that resembled a tunnel, but instead of walking around it, I heeded my instructions and overcame my fear of the creepy crawlies that probably resided there. Moving quickly through it, I continually eyed the light at the end. “Come to the light,” it called, evoking memories of supernatural movies where the dead passed on, heading towards a bright aurora. That thought was applicable, as when I stepped out, it was there that I found the nun’s cemetery.
About eleven small headstones, marking the final resting place of the nuns that resided there, were scattered around the overgrown graveyard. In the moment, I was more concerned with snakes, than ghosts, so I headed back to the path.
Continuing on into the ever-growing gloom, I passed through a gate and found the children’s cemetery. Now, if dead nuns don’t make you scared, dead children might…especially in the dark.
I made quick work of photographing the small burial ground and finally, returned as quickly as I had come…maybe quicker!
A successful day of photography, both the Belmead and St. Francis de Sales, although, shadows of their former selves, make for stunning architectural subjects. It is good to know, however, that both buildings have been recently purchased by a new owner and a foundation has been established in an effort to restore and reuse the buildings.
Possibly one day, after renovations, everyone may have the opportunity to see these stunning pieces, reminders of time gone by.
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St. Francis de Sales
Address: 3500 St. Emma Drive, Powhatan, Virginia 23139
As a child, one of my favorite memories was waiting for the Wonderful World of Disney movie on Sunday nights. Seeing Tinkerbell flying onto the screen in front of the Disney Castle and all of the fireworks exploding behind it, was breathtaking! The anticipation was only second to Christmas Eve when we eagerly awaited the arrival of Santa and the presents under the tree the next morning!
The mere sight of this castle, in even a picture, was enough to trigger fantasies of not only what the movie would be that week, but also what it would be like to live in or even visit this castle. Castles were what our fantasies were made of…princesses, knights in shining armor and space to run freely and have spectacular games of hide and seek.
Visitors to Disney World have often wondered how Walt Disney, the theme park’s creator, conceived and brought to fruition, this beautiful castle. Had he seen one like it somewhere?
Visitors to Segovia, go to see not only the city’s amazing aqueduct, but the beautiful castle (or alcazar) that is rumored to have been Walt’s inspiration for Disneyworld’s castle.
Now, I’m a bit of a sucker for a castle. I love not only the history and the architecture, but the princess that resides in every woman, imagines that one day she is going to wander the halls of a castle in a foreign land, doling out orders to her ladies in waiting and whiling away the hours sewing, painting, dancing and waiting for her prince. So, when I have an opportunity to see an amazing “real-life” castle, I take it!
Walking through the city of Segovia, past the aqueduct, the Plaza Mayor and the many beautiful churches and cathedrals, I headed to the outermost edge of the city. I wanted to see the castle of Segovia.
Originally built as a fortress in the 12th century, it was later used as a royal palace, state prison, Royal Artillery College and military academy and is well known throughout Spain for its distinctive architecture. It was one of the favored residences of the monarchs and a key fortress in the defense of the kingdom with its location on the granite cliffs at the convergence of the Clamores and Esrema rivers. There are many secret passages that connect to these rivers and it is the location where Isabella was crowned in 1474 as the Queen of Castile and Leon.
And yes, as I approached the castle, I could truly see the similarities to what I had once set my eyes upon on visits to Disneyworld and on Sunday night television! It is a truly fascinating spectacle and I was excited as I entered the ticket office at the forefront of the property. Ticket in hand, I crossed the drawbridge and began my exploration.
Ticket Office
The castle is now used as a museum and a military archives building and when you enter, there are many different options of the areas to seek out. Follow the signs, as your visit is self guided, and take each space, one by one.
The highlights of the castle are its keep, its square with four towers and the hall raised by King John II of Castile which first served as a Weapons room. There are magnificent courtyards filled with statues and artillery and the Cellars in which the foundations of the castle can be found.
The Hall of the Palace contains suits of armor and leads to the Hall of the Galley with its magnificent stained glass windows representing Henry III of Castile and his family and Henry II of Castile with scenes of the death of Peter I and John II. A beautiful painting depicting the coronation of the queen Isabella I of Castile decorates one of the walls, but it is the coffered ceiling that takes center stage. The room was built by the queen of Catherine of Lancaster in 1412.
Hall of the PalaceHall of the PalaceHall of the GalleyHall of the Galley
The Throne Room contains portraits of the kings, the coat of arms of the Catholic Monarchs, the throne seating and leads to the Hall of the Fireplace with its tapestry of Our Lady’s betrothal. The Royal Chamber’s main focus is the brocade covered bed, woven in gold, along with scenes of the family life of the Catholic Monarchs.
Throne Room
Hall of the Fireplace
The Hall of the Kings truly took my breath away with its gold inlaid ceiling set with statues corresponding to the Kings of Asturias, Leon and Castile. There is a portrait of Philip II and two portraits of his wives, Elisabeth of Valois and Anna of Austria.
Hall of the KingsHall of the Kings
Sweeping through the Room of the Belt with its tile walls and its elaborate blue and gold ceiling, I was elated to peer through a screened partition to spy the Chapel, which was also accessible through the next hallway. This was the location where the kings and queens of the castle celebrated mass.
Room of the BeltRoom of the Belt
Chapel
Chapel
Finally, I ventured into the Weapons Room or Armory. The Alacazar had housed the armory of the House of Trastamara since old times and was the model of the collections of weapons that were finally collected into the Royal Armory of Madrid. Out of the back of the Weapons Room, there is a large terrace which offers views of the river below and the nearby Museo Real Casa de Moneda de Segovia and the Convento de San Juan de la Cruz.
Weapons Room
Weapons Room
Weapons Room
Following the signs, I retraced my steps to the front of the castle to climb the 152 steps of the tower of John II of Castile. The large panoramic terrace gave me outstanding views of the entire city and close up views of the construction of the towers and the castle. As I stared out upon the city, my inner princess reared her head and I felt that Sunday night Disney excitement. That inner princess suddenly felt as though she was staring out on her kingdom…one she was about to set foot back upon and thoroughly discover what it was all about!
Tower of John II of CastileTower of John II of Castile
View From Tower of John II of Castile
Tower of John II of Castile
Very inspiring.
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Address: Plaza Reina Victoria Eugenia, s/n, 40003 Segovia, Spain
Hours: October to March, 1000-1800 and April to September, 1000-1900. Closed December 25, January 1, January 6.
Admission: Adults, €5.00, Seniors €3.45. Citizens of the European Union can visit for free on Tuesdays from 1400-1600.
Getting There: Train, from Chamartin station in Madrid, http://www.renfre.com or http://www.thetrainline.com. By bus, from Moncloa metro station (Madrid), http://www.omio.com. After arriving in Segovia, bus #11 (2€) stops at the aqueduct and its about a 15-20 minute walk to the castle on the northwest side of the city.
