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Traveling with my friend Cristina is always a treat…she’s one of those few people that I can plan a trip with and expect to see everything that the city has to offer. She has as much energy as I do and always has an idea for something fun! Together, we are a traveling force to be reckoned with!
Last fall, while working a trip to Milan, we decided that we should take a day trip to a neighboring city. Scouring the map, we looked for cities that were an hour or an hour and a half away and that offered numerous sites and a city center with easy access to the train station.
Stumbling upon a cool little video about the city of Lodi, we decided that this would be our destination. With only a thirty-minute train ride (a bonus!), a beautiful Piazza and plenty of churches, it looked like there would be plenty to keep us occupied that afternoon.
Heading to Milan’s Centrale Station, we hopped on a train and struck up conversation with a young woman heading toward Bologna. She had been to Lodi and insisted that we would enjoy our excursion, especially since it was one of those no-cloud-in-the-sky warm fall afternoons.
Thirty minutes later, bidding our new friend Arrivederci, we jumped off the train and made our way toward the city center. Spying some unique architecture and passing through Passeggio Federico I Park and its many monuments, we happened upon the Porta Cremona, a monumental gate which also pays tribute to the fallen of the Great War fought in Lodi, Italy.
Gazing wistfully at the locked Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, we continued on knowing that there was much that awaited us only a few blocks away.
Heading north, we chatted as we passed numerous churches, intriguing alleyways and interesting art and architecture. Reaching the Napoleon Bonaparte bridge, which spans the Adda river, we stood on its pedestrian walkway gazing out at its muddy waters and the beautiful villas lining its banks. This bridge played an important role in the Battle of Lodi, during the French Revolutionary War, on May 10, 1796, when the French forces, under Napoleon’s rule, went head-to-head with Austrian forces, led by Karl Philipp Sebottendorf. While Napoleon was successful in this campaign, it was not a decisive battle, but one that led Napoleon to believe that he was superior to other generals and destined to achieve great things. A couple blocks from the river we found an interesting statue of Napoleon Bonaparte and a commemorative plaque.
As we continued our walk, we discovered a quaint little courtyard filled with plates decorating the walls. Not sure if it was attached to an artist’s studio, it was fun looking at all the displays. There were lots of little shops and cafes along the way, many closed for a few hours in the afternoon, but the best one was Gelateria Umberto. Who can resist a couple of scoops of gelato in the afternoon? Not me!
Finally, we made it to the Piazza della Vittoria (Victory Square), where the Lodi Cathedral (Duomo) takes the center stage.
Founded in 1158, the cathedral was completed in two phases, the second, being carried on from 1170 and the façade being completed in 1284. The brick entrance that faces the Piazza is Gothic in style, however, the overall building is Romanesque with a massive bell tower which was left unfinished.
As we entered the massive church, the largest in northern Italy and seat of the Bishop of Lodi, we were amazed with how much there was to see within its walls. Looking down the nave toward the altar, there were two staircases on either side. At the back of the church there were multiple tombs and along each wall, multiple side chapels, the most impressive being a simple niche containing a 15th century, full-size wooden depiction of Christ, his disciples and his blessed mother, Mary. The church is also connected on the left to the Bishop’s Palace and a court which is the remaining part of a cloister dating back to 1484.
Up the right-hand staircase, we found the entrance to the crypt, which features a 12th century bas-relief and is the oldest section of the cathedral. In the center of the crypt is an altar dating back to 1856, which houses the remains of Saint Bassianus in a beautifully bedecked silver case. On the left-hand side of the high altar is the altar of Saint Alberto Quadrelli, Bishop of Lodi from 1168 to 1173.
Once our explorations of the cathedral were complete, we headed back into the Piazza, formerly known as the Piazza Maggiore until 1924. The town hall is located here as well as the Vistarini Palace, one of the most beautiful in the city. Porticos which protect cafe tables from the sun and the elements, line the edges of the square and it is quite colorful and scenic. It is definitely the heart of the city today where the residents meet for conversation, children play games and the local market is held on Tuesdays and Thursdays in contrast to the fairs, festivals and executions which took place during Medieval times. As countless bishops have traversed the square over time, it even saw the arrival of Pope John Paul II in 1992.
Spying another tall bell tower down one of the streets branching off of the Piazza, we set off on foot attempting to find what lay beneath. While the church we found was closed, our curiosity led us to an even greater discovery, Il Templo dell’Incoronata.
At the end of the 15th century, a brothel with a painting of an image of the Virgin Mary was located in the area known today as via Incoronata. It is said that in September of 1487, the image of the Virgin Mary wept and called on those present to build a temple dedicated to her on that site…Tempio delle Incoronata or the Temple of the Crowned.
With the assistance of all citizens of Lodi, the Temple of the City was erected and became one of the most beautiful buildings of Renaissance Lombardy. Started in 1488 by Giovanni Battagio, a pupil of Bramante, it was completed in 1503, by Lorenzo Maggi, and a portico was added in the late 15th century and the loggia in 1882. It was through two small doors in the portico that we entered, only because we were being nosy when we saw other tourists exit. Walking a short distance thru a small, dark hallway, our inquisitiveness was rewarded with one of the most spectacular church interiors that we had both ever laid eyes on.
The octagonal space was surrounded by arches on the lower level, an altar and an octagonally domed ceiling all highlighted by copious amounts of gilt. Every space not covered in gold was decorated with paintings, most completed by three generations of the Piazza family, who were founding the most prestigious painting school in Italy. It was almost indescribable! The only disappointing part was that we were not there on Sunday when the underground space below the monumental sacristy is open to the public. In this museum space, there are three different rooms housing rare and unique works of sacred art and objects attesting to the importance of the sanctuary.
Giddy with excitement, we headed back out into the city, taking a roundabout route back to the train station. Spotting the Church of San Lorenzo, we ducked inside, perhaps to say a few prayers for our expeditious return to Milan since we were hearing rumblings of a train strike.
The city’s oldest church, after the cathedral, was built in the 12th and 13th centuries. A typical Romanesque-style church, we noticed an image of Saint Lorenzo, above the altar, to whom the church is dedicated. There were several works of art within the church and beautiful architectural details including the apse above the choir with 16th century stucco adornments by Abbondio da Ascona and a fresco of a Resurrected Christ by Callisto Piazza.
Glancing at our watches, we noted the time and set off once again, finding ourselves in the Piazza di Castello. The Visconti Castle spread out before us, including the Torrione di Lodi (Tower of Lodi). The castle was founded in the 12th century by a member of the Visconti family, the Lord and Dukes of Milan who in the 13th and 14th centuries took possession of and then rebuilt the original fortification. In 1456, Francesco Sforza added a round tower to the northern corner of the castle which eventually (20th century) was converted to a water tower. It has since become a landmark of Lodi greeting those who arrive into the city. Today, the castle is the seat of the Questura of Lodi, the local office of the Italian Ministry of the Interior. As we studied the exterior of the castle, we realized that we would have liked to have seen more of it, however, it is not open to the public and even if it had been, we had that train to catch!
Walking quickly, we headed to the train station. Catching sight of the pink-hued building with its statue dedicated to Amatori Wasken Lodi, the city’s roller hockey team(yes, really…), and the time on the station’s clock, we knew that we had made it in time to get back to Milan for our dinner reservation!
While Lodi had not been on our radar as one of the Italian cities we wanted to visit initially, we were so glad that we had found that video prior to our trip which was the inspiration for a wonderful day. Being so close to Milan was a bonus, but the biggest reward was the multitude of attractions that the city has to offer and getting to share it with my friend, Cristina!
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Napoleon Bonaparte Bridge (Bridge of Lodi)
- Address: Via X Maggio, 5, 26900 Lodi, Italy
- Hours: 24 hours, daily
- Admission: free
Lodi Cathedral (Duomo of Lodi)
- http://Diocese.lodi.it
- Address: Piazza della Vittoria, 4/10 26900 Lodi, Italy
- Hours: 0730-1200 and 1530-1900, daily
- Admission: free
Tempio dell’Incoronata
- http://Incoronata.eu
- Address: Via Incoronata, 23, 26900 Lodi, Italy
- Hours: Monday, 0930-1230, Tuesday thru Friday, 0930-1230 and 1530-1800, Saturday and Sunday, 0930-1230 and 1500-1800
- Mass Schedule: Weekday Mass, Sunday and holidays: 11.30 (visitors must leave the church ten minuts before the function).
- Admission: free
Museo del Tesoro dell’Incoronata
- http://Incoronata.eu
- Address: Via Incoronata, 25 – 26900 Lodi
- Hours: Sunday, 1500-1800
- Admission: free
- Booking is recommended for groups and school visits.
Church of San Lorenzo
- Address: 9, Piazza S. Lorenzo, 9, 26900 Lodi, Italy
- Hours: Unknown
- Admission: free
Castle of Visconti and Torrione di Lodi (Tower of Lodi)
- Address: 26900, Lodi, Italy
- Hours: 24 hours daily, viewed from exterior only
- Admission: not open to the public