Vibrant Verona

©2023 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

While visiting Venice is an amazing experience, after having been there many times, one gets the itch to see other cities in the region. Having already taken the train to Padua a few years prior, I was planning on seeing some other nearby cities. On this particular day, however, realizing that we had arrived a little earlier than normal, I decided to venture out a little further…to Verona.

Verona is one of the main tourist destinations in northern Italy, situated on the Adige River and known as the setting for two of William Shakespeare’s plays, Romeo and Juliet and The Two Gentlemen of Verona. Because of its artistic heritage and opera season staged in its Roman amphitheater, it attracts millions of visitors each year.

Ruled by the della Scala family during the 13th and 14th century, the city was extremely prosperous during their reign and this wealth can be spied throughout its boundaries today; in its monuments, walls and architecture and more. While I was aware that many tourists head straight to Juliet’s House and Museum, one of the most famous places in the city, I decided to do this as well, but also to see the other aspects that make this UNESCO World Heritage Site so special.

After the hour and ten minute train ride, I quickly ducked into a station shop to purchase a face mask for the return trip or for any other attraction which might require it. During my train ride, I had realized that KN95 face masks were still required on public transportation when conductors removed five British travelers at the stop prior to Verona’s Porta Nuova station. While I had a regular surgical mask, I realized that it was not enough and was thankful that I went unnoticed.

Verona Train Station

Thankful that crisis had been averted, I set out to walk to the city center, first stopping at the Porta Nuova (https://snappingtheglobe.com/?p=30718), the city’s old gate. Stopping for a few photos, I then continued on Corso Porta Nuova past Giardini Pradaval and its sculptures and statues, the Lapidary Museum Maffeiano and I Portoni della Bra the historic gate that once divided the city from the countryside and connects the Porta Nuova railway station to Piazza Bra. While I felt welcomed by the city gate Porta Nuova, it was when I walked through the arches of I Portoni della Bra that I felt as though I was truly entering the city and readied myself for the city’s beauty.

Porta Nuova Gate
Giardini Pradaval
Lapidary Museum Maffeiano
I Portoni della Bra
I Portoni della Bra

Having planned to see the amphitheater, I decided to take a detour and walk toward the river and the Castelvecchio Museum, since its opening hours were fewer. Making my way across its intimidating drawbridge into the courtyard, I then headed inside to make my way through its major Italian art collections distributed over twenty-nine rooms. Sculpture, paintings, ancient weapons, ceramics, goldsmiths, miniatures and ancient city bells were artfully displayed throughout the castle which dates back to the mid 1300s. While it was built as a residence for the della Scala family, it was mainly used for the military defense of the city and that is evident by its towering walls and battlements.

Castelvecchio Exterior
Castelvecchio Entrance

While I enjoyed my walk through the castle’s interior, what I really wanted to do was investigate the courtyards, the battlements and the clock tower. Climbing up the stairway, I made my way first to the rear of the castle and was rewarded with stunning views of the river and the Scaligero Bridge. It was a beautiful day and being out on the walls was the perfect place to be! Some of the passageways were a bit narrow but easy to navigate and to reach the seven towers. From the front of the castle, the views of the city, the large courtyard, the clock tower and the small courtyard beneath the tower were so stunning that I could have stayed up there all day. Finally, I passed through the adjacent walkway to the bridge and took a quick stroll across so that I could say “I did”.

Scaligero Bridge

If I was going to see everything, however, it was time to move on and I decided to continue my path along the Corso Cavour, which follows the river. A short stroll later, I passed the Arco dei Gavi, a massive, ancient white-marble arch which was was used as a gate in the walls during the Middle Ages. During the Napoleonic rule, French engineers demolished it and its ruins were moved to a square and then to the arena. In 1932, the arch was reconstructed, under Mussolini’s rule, in its current spot next to the Castelvecchio, very near its original location.

Arco dei Gavi

A little further down the road, I happened upon the Basilica di San Lorenzo. As I always make time for a church, I spent a few moments walking through this 12th structure. Built in the Romanesque style on the remains of a 5th or 6th century paleo-Christian building, using some of the original materials, it was interesting to see the two different types of building materials stemming from the different phases of construction…alternating brick and stone which gives the interior a striking pattern of strips in the columns and the walls and apse. Listening in to a tour guide’s spiel, I also learned that a unique feature is the presence of the women’s galleries, still intact and open onto three sides. Though my stop was a quick one, I was glad to see this beautiful church.

Chiesa di San Lorenzo
Chiesa di San Lorenzo
Chiesa di San Lorenzo Exterior
Chiesa di San Lorenzo
Chiesa di San Lorenzo
Chiesa di San Lorenzo

Near the Ponte della Vittoria, I decided to move into the city center as there was more to see in that domain. A few minutes later, I passed under the impressive Porta Borsari, the arched limestone gate, which dates back to the 1st century and served as the main entrance to the city.

Porta Borsari

There were many more churches, including the Church of St. Eufemia; some open, some closed for the afternoon, and as I spied many balconies, I thought of Juliet’s House, which I had planned to visit…whenever I got there! But of course, there was so much to see along the way!

Other churches in Verona

Glancing at my watch, I decided to snatch a few moments at the Church of San Giovanni in Foro. A minor church, it was built on what was the main Roman road. Badly damaged by fire in 1172, while much of Verona was destroyed, its restoration in the early 1900s led to the discovery that Roman walls had been incorporated into the external walls of the church. It was small and dimly lit, but its beautiful mosaics, stone walls and ancient paintings made me glad that I had stumbled upon this gem.

Church of San Giovanni in Foro
Church of San Giovanni in Foro

Continuing on, I finally made my way to the beautiful Piazza delle Erbe, which was once the center of the city’s political and economic life. There were many market stalls hawking souvenirs and food, but there were lots of statues, fountains and other landmarks to see. More importantly, the square is surrounded by many buildings and monuments that have marked the history of Verona…City Hall, Lamberti Tower, the Houses of Mazzanti, Maffei Palace, the Gardello Tower and the Casa dei Mercanti (Merchant’s House). What I loved most, however, was the ancient fountain (circa 1368) with its roman statue, Madonna Verona, built by Bonino da Campione, which stands proudly in the center of the square and welcomes visitors to investigate its history.

Piazza delle Erbe
Piazza delle Erbe
Piazza delle Erbe
Madonna Verona
Piazza delle Erbe

My goodness…what wasn’t there to see? I love everything about Rome and its “in your face architecture”, but the simplicity of Verona with the minor details that begged you to slow down and savor it was unlike anything I had ever experienced in Italy. Everywhere I laid my eyes, there was stunning construction, architectural details on every building, including balconies upon which other Italian ladies, like the fictional Juliet, may have stood, conversing down to their young paramours.

Finding my way to the Scaliger Tombs, I decided that I needed to enter the premises so that I could see these stunning tombs at close range. After paying my entrance fee, I was given a handout to guide me through the small courtyard. Each of the elaborate tombs were unique and some just outright ostentatious. While passerby could get a glimpse through the iron bars of all of the tombs, I thought it much better to see their beauty unobstructed.

Scaliger Tombs

These five funerary monuments celebrate the Scaliger family who ruled in Verona from the 13th to the late 14th century. Located in a wrought-iron fenced enclosure of the church of Santa Maria Antica, these Gothic tombs were constructed for the wealthy members of the noble Scaliger dynasty who ruled as the Lords of Verona; Cangrande I, Mastino II, Cansignorio, Alberto II and Giovanni.

Scaliger Tombs
Scaliger Tombs
Scaliger Tombs

The church was open and I was given a covering for my shoulders as I entered. The modest sanctuary was dimly lit and quiet and it didn’t appear that photographs were appreciated by the woman keeping a sharp eye on the visitors. While I was able to capture a couple undetected, as I was inspecting the 14th century frescoes in the central nave, I took a moment to nod my head in prayer before leaving.

Santa Maria Antica

Finally, next on the list was the famed Juliet’s House, a short walk away. As expected, after walking through the short corridor to the courtyard, I found it extremely crowded with other visitors. Everyone was jockeying for position and waiting for their chance to pose with the bronze statue of Juliet. Noting the balcony above, and those also posing there for photographs, I figured out which door to enter to pay my admission.

Juliet’s House
Juliet’s House

Inside, there were statues paying homage to Shakespeare, another bronze statue of Juliet, period furniture and the bed and Renaissance costumes from Franco Zeffirelli’s 1968 film version of Romeo and Juliet. The wooden floors and artfully decorated ceilings were extremely cozy, although very roomy, depicting the wealth of the Capello family (from which the name Capulet was derived). Eventually, I was able to step out onto the balcony and also pose for a photo, but I was interested to find that even though the house dates back to 13th century, the balcony was only added during the 20th century.

Juliet’s House
Juliet’s House
Juliet’s House

On my way out, I noticed the red mailbox, which collects the letters “to Juliet” from visitors. Remembering the 2010 movie Letters to Juliet, I smiled at the messages visible in the small window in the center, glancing around, wondering where the women who volunteer to answer them were.

Just up the road, I happened upon Porta Leoni, the ancient gate that was built during the Roman Republic and features a double façade and two towers. Adjacent, below the street level are amazing Roman excavations.

Porta Leoni

The afternoon was dwindling away and although I had seen so much during my afternoon visit to Verona, I still wanted to see the amphitheater. Deciding to walk along the river in order to make navigation back to Corso Porta Nuova a little easier, I was stopped in my tracks by an imposing church on the corner.

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore.

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore
Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore

Oh, I was here and I couldn’t resist, so I went in, hoping I had enough time for everything else on my list…namely the amphitheater. The church was still open and I paid my admission, following the handout offered to me, which guided me to both the Upper and Lower churches.

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore
Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore

Starting with the Lower church, I traversed the ancient staircase to reach the first and oldest cloister of the complex. Here, I marveled at the decorated ribbed vaults and frescoed columns which divided the space. Of particular note was the early 14th century fresco depicting the Virgin seated on a throne with baby Jesus and a 12th century fresco of the Baptism of Jesus. There is a tombstone of jurist Antonio Pelacani, who died in 1327, showing him teaching his students and another of scholar Master Omobono, built in 1330. In the presbytery, there is a wooden crucifix from the 14th century and in the right transept, the stone upon which saints Fermo and Rustico were beheaded.

Lower Church
Lower Church
Lower Church
Lower Church
Lower Church

Back upstairs in the Upper church, I found it to be a massive and towering space. Again, crumbling frescoes decorated the walls and a large wooden door was topped with a fresco of the Crucifixion of Christ. The single nave church contained five apses and of particular interest was the Della Torre altar, from the 18th century, Our Lady’s Chapel (1613), which contains a some significant paintings and the presbytery with its marble altar, created by Schiavi, on which the relics of Saints Fermo and Rustico are kept.

Upper Church
Upper Church
Upper Church
Upper Church
Upper Church
Upper Church
Upper Church

There were many tourists here and there was so much to see in the Upper Church that I spent much more time here than I had anticipated. As I finally exited San Fermo, I regained my routing along the river to head back toward the center of the city where the amphitheater was located. Taking much longer than I had anticipated, along with the heat of the afternoon slowing me down, I realized that I had maybe need to check the train schedule. I was still a ways from the train station and just over an hour away from Venice. As I realized that if I didn’t make the next train, I would be arriving into the Mestre station pretty late and I still needed to keep in mind dinner and the 20 minute walk back to my hotel. Upper ChurchThere were many tourists here and there was so much to see in the Upper Church that I spent much more time here than I had anticipated. As I finally exited San Fermo, I regained my routing along the river to head back toward the center of the city where the amphitheater was located. Taking much longer than I had anticipated, along with the heat of the afternoon slowing me down, I realized that I had maybe need to check the train schedule. I was still a ways from the train station and just over an hour away from Venice. As I realized that if I didn’t make the next train, I would be arriving into the Mestre station pretty late and I still needed to keep in mind dinner and the 20 minute walk back to my hotel.

Sadly, I had saved the amphitheater for last and it was not meant to be.

This time…

With so much to see in Verona, I was impressed with what I had undertaken and experience in a single afternoon. As there is much more enjoy in Verona, I realized that I would definitely return in the near future.

Pulling my KN95 mask from my bag…it was time to make that train.

.For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Castelvecchio Museum

  • https://museodicastelvecchio.comune.verona.it/nqcontent.cfm?a_id=42545
  • Address: Corso Castelvecchio, 2, Verona, Italy
  • Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 1000 to1800. Last entrance at 1715. Closed Mondays, December 24, January 1.
  • Admission: Adults, €6.00 (+ €.60 online presale), Children (ages 8-14 years), €1.00 (+€.10 online presale). Free admission for residents of 65 years in the Municipality of Verona, persons with disabilities and their companion, children up to 7 years, holders of the VeronaCard.

Arco dei Gavi

Basilica di San Lorenzo

Porta Borsari

  • Address: Corso Porta Borsari, 57A, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Chiesa di San Giovanni in Foro

  • Address: Corso Porta Borsari, 20, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
  • Hours: hours unknown
  • Admission: free

Piazza delle Erbe

Scaliger Tombs

  • Address: Via San M. Antica 1, Verona VR, Italy
  • Hours: unknown
  • Admission: €3 (unverified)

Juliet’s House

Porta Leoni

  • Address: Via Leoni, 37100 Verona VR, Italy
  • Hours: 24 hours daily
  • Admission: free

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore

  • https://www.chieseverona.it/it/le-chiese/la-chiesa-di-san-fermo
  • Address: Corte S. Elena, Piazza Duomo 35, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
  • Hours: Monday to Friday, 1100-1800, Saturday, 0930-1800, Sunday, 1300-1800
  • Admission: Single entry €4. Entry to four churches, San Fermo, San Zeno, Cathedral Complex and Santa Anastasia, Basilica of San Zeno, the Cathedral Complex, the Basilica of Santa Anastasia, €8

Look Out Lodi, Here We Come!

©2022 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Traveling with my friend Cristina is always a treat…she’s one of those few people that I can plan a trip with and expect to see everything that the city has to offer.  She has as much energy as I do and always has an idea for something fun! Together, we are a traveling force to be reckoned with!

Last fall, while working a trip to Milan, we decided that we should take a day trip to a neighboring city. Scouring the map, we looked for cities that were an hour or an hour and a half away and that offered numerous sites and a city center with easy access to the train station.

Stumbling upon a cool little video about the city of Lodi, we decided that this would be our destination.  With only a thirty-minute train ride (a bonus!), a beautiful Piazza and plenty of churches, it looked like there would be plenty to keep us occupied that afternoon.

Heading to Milan’s Centrale Station, we hopped on a train and struck up conversation with a young woman heading toward Bologna. She had been to Lodi and insisted that we would enjoy our excursion, especially since it was one of those no-cloud-in-the-sky warm fall afternoons.

Thirty minutes later, bidding our new friend Arrivederci, we jumped off the train and made our way toward the city center.  Spying some unique architecture and passing through Passeggio Federico I Park and its many monuments, we happened upon the Porta Cremona, a monumental gate which also pays tribute to the fallen of the Great War fought in Lodi, Italy.

Passeggio Federico I Park
Porta Cremona
Porta Cremona

Gazing wistfully at the locked Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, we continued on knowing that there was much that awaited us only a few blocks away.

Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie

Heading north, we chatted as we passed numerous churches, intriguing alleyways and interesting art and architecture.  Reaching the Napoleon Bonaparte bridge, which spans the Adda river, we stood on its pedestrian walkway gazing out at its muddy waters and the beautiful villas lining its banks.  This bridge played an important role in the Battle of Lodi, during the French Revolutionary War, on May 10, 1796, when the French forces, under Napoleon’s rule, went head-to-head with Austrian forces, led by Karl Philipp Sebottendorf.  While Napoleon was successful in this campaign, it was not a decisive battle, but one that led Napoleon to believe that he was superior to other generals and destined to achieve great things.  A couple blocks from the river we found an interesting statue of Napoleon Bonaparte and a commemorative plaque.

Sights in Lodi
Napoleon Bonaparte bridge, spanning the Adda river

As we continued our walk, we discovered a quaint little courtyard filled with plates decorating the walls. Not sure if it was attached to an artist’s studio, it was fun looking at all the displays.  There were lots of little shops and cafes along the way, many closed for a few hours in the afternoon, but the best one was Gelateria Umberto. Who can resist a couple of scoops of gelato in the afternoon? Not me!

Shops of Lodi
Gelato snack!
San Felippo Neri Church
Archway over Corso Umberto I

Finally, we made it to the Piazza della Vittoria (Victory Square), where the Lodi Cathedral (Duomo) takes the center stage.

Lodi Cathedral

Founded in 1158, the cathedral was completed in two phases, the second, being carried on from 1170 and the façade being completed in 1284. The brick entrance that faces the Piazza is Gothic in style, however, the overall building is Romanesque with a massive bell tower which was left unfinished.

Lodi Cathedral Entrance

As we entered the massive church, the largest in northern Italy and seat of the Bishop of Lodi, we were amazed with how much there was to see within its walls.  Looking down the nave toward the altar, there were two staircases on either side. At the back of the church there were multiple tombs and along each wall, multiple side chapels, the most impressive being a simple niche containing a 15th century, full-size wooden depiction of Christ, his disciples and his blessed mother, Mary.  The church is also connected on the left to the Bishop’s Palace and a court which is the remaining part of a cloister dating back to 1484.

Lodi Cathedral
Lodi Cathedral
Lodi Cathedral
Lodi Cathedral
Lodi Cathedral
Lodi Cathedral
Lodi Cathedral

Up the right-hand staircase, we found the entrance to the crypt, which features a 12th century bas-relief and is the oldest section of the cathedral. In the center of the crypt is an altar dating back to 1856, which houses the remains of Saint Bassianus in a beautifully bedecked silver case. On the left-hand side of the high altar is the altar of Saint Alberto Quadrelli, Bishop of Lodi from 1168 to 1173. 

Bishop’s Palace
Court remains of 15th century cloister

Once our explorations of the cathedral were complete, we headed back into the Piazza, formerly known as the Piazza Maggiore until 1924. The town hall is located here as well as the Vistarini Palace, one of the most beautiful in the city.  Porticos which protect cafe tables from the sun and the elements, line the edges of the square and it is quite colorful and scenic.  It is definitely the heart of the city today where the residents meet for conversation, children play games and the local market is held on Tuesdays and Thursdays in contrast to the fairs, festivals and executions which took place during Medieval times.  As countless bishops have traversed the square over time, it even saw the arrival of Pope John Paul II in 1992.

Piazza della Vittoria
Piazza della Vittoria
Vistarini Palace

Spying another tall bell tower down one of the streets branching off of the Piazza, we set off on foot attempting to find what lay beneath.  While the church we found was closed, our curiosity led us to an even greater discovery, Il Templo dell’Incoronata.

Chiesa di Santa Maria del Sole
Sights in Lodi
Sights in Lodi
Tempio delle Incoronata

At the end of the 15th century, a brothel with a painting of an image of the Virgin Mary was located in the area known today as via Incoronata.  It is said that in September of 1487, the image of the Virgin Mary wept and called on those present to build a temple dedicated to her on that site…Tempio delle Incoronata or the Temple of the Crowned.

Tempio delle Incoronata Entrance
Tempio delle Incoronata (Rear View)

With the assistance of all citizens of Lodi, the Temple of the City was erected and became one of the most beautiful buildings of Renaissance Lombardy.  Started in 1488 by Giovanni Battagio, a pupil of Bramante, it was completed in 1503, by Lorenzo Maggi, and a portico was added in the late 15th century and the loggia in 1882.  It was through two small doors in the portico that we entered, only because we were being nosy when we saw other tourists exit.  Walking a short distance thru a small, dark hallway, our inquisitiveness was rewarded with one of the most spectacular church interiors that we had both ever laid eyes on. 

Tempio delle Incoronata
Tempio delle Incoronata
Tempio delle Incoronata
Tempio delle Incoronata

The octagonal space was surrounded by arches on the lower level, an altar and an octagonally domed ceiling all highlighted by copious amounts of gilt. Every space not covered in gold was decorated with paintings, most completed by three generations of the Piazza family, who were founding the most prestigious painting school in Italy.  It was almost indescribable!  The only disappointing part was that we were not there on Sunday when the underground space below the monumental sacristy is open to the public.  In this museum space, there are three different rooms housing rare and unique works of sacred art and objects attesting to the importance of the sanctuary.

Tempio delle Incoronata
Tempio delle Incoronata

Giddy with excitement, we headed back out into the city, taking a roundabout route back to the train station. Spotting the Church of San Lorenzo, we ducked inside, perhaps to say a few prayers for our expeditious return to Milan since we were hearing rumblings of a train strike.

Church of San Lorenzo

The city’s oldest church, after the cathedral, was built in the 12th and 13th centuries.  A typical Romanesque-style church, we noticed an image of Saint Lorenzo, above the altar, to whom the church is dedicated. There were several works of art within the church and beautiful architectural details including the apse above the choir with 16th century stucco adornments by Abbondio da Ascona and a fresco of a Resurrected Christ by Callisto Piazza.

Church of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo

Glancing at our watches, we noted the time and set off once again, finding ourselves in the Piazza di Castello.  The Visconti Castle spread out before us, including the Torrione di Lodi (Tower of Lodi).  The castle was founded in the 12th century by a member of the Visconti family, the Lord and Dukes of Milan who in the 13th and 14th centuries took possession of and then rebuilt the original fortification. In 1456, Francesco Sforza added a round tower to the northern corner of the castle which eventually (20th century) was converted to a water tower. It has since become a landmark of Lodi greeting those who arrive into the city.  Today, the castle is the seat of the Questura of Lodi, the local office of the Italian Ministry of the Interior. As we studied the exterior of the castle, we realized that we would have liked to have seen more of it, however, it is not open to the public and even if it had been, we had that train to catch!

Piazza di Castello
Visconti Castle and Torrione di Lodi (Tower of Lodi)

Walking quickly, we headed to the train station.  Catching sight of the pink-hued building with its statue dedicated to Amatori Wasken Lodi, the city’s roller hockey team(yes, really…), and the time on the station’s clock, we knew that we had made it in time to get back to Milan for our dinner reservation!

Lodi Train Station and statue dedicated to Amatori Wasken Lodi

While Lodi had not been on our radar as one of the Italian cities we wanted to visit initially, we were so glad that we had found that video prior to our trip which was the inspiration for a wonderful day.  Being so close to Milan was a bonus, but the biggest reward was the multitude of attractions that the city has to offer and getting to share it with my friend, Cristina!

For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram @snappingtheglobe.com.

Napoleon Bonaparte Bridge (Bridge of Lodi)

  • Address: Via X Maggio, 5, 26900 Lodi, Italy
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Lodi Cathedral (Duomo of Lodi)

  • http://Diocese.lodi.it
  • Address: Piazza della Vittoria, 4/10 26900 Lodi, Italy
  • Hours: 0730-1200 and 1530-1900, daily
  • Admission: free

Tempio dell’Incoronata

  • http://Incoronata.eu
  • Address: Via Incoronata, 23, 26900 Lodi, Italy
  • Hours: Monday, 0930-1230, Tuesday thru Friday, 0930-1230 and 1530-1800, Saturday and Sunday, 0930-1230 and 1500-1800
  • Mass Schedule: Weekday Mass, Sunday and holidays: 11.30 (visitors must leave the church ten minuts before the function).
  • Admission: free

Museo del Tesoro dell’Incoronata

  • http://Incoronata.eu
  • Address: Via Incoronata, 25 – 26900 Lodi
  • Hours: Sunday, 1500-1800
  • Admission: free
  • Booking is recommended for groups and school visits.

Church of San Lorenzo

  • Address: 9, Piazza S. Lorenzo, 9, 26900 Lodi, Italy
  • Hours: Unknown
  • Admission: free

Castle of Visconti and Torrione di Lodi (Tower of Lodi)

  • Address: 26900, Lodi, Italy
  • Hours: 24 hours daily, viewed from exterior only
  • Admission: not open to the public

The Fountain Au Natural

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Dozing on the way to my hotel, I suddenly sat up, aware that the bus was making a series of turns. My inner navigation, sensing that we were almost to my hotel, had alerted me to the area, that no matter how many times I visit, I never tire of seeing on my arrival into Rome.

Passing by the Vatican’s towering walls and the line snaking around its perimeter, our bus made its way through the busy streets, finally taking a final turn. I eyed the vendors displaying their wares on the street corners, the summer sale signs in the clothing stores, the gelato shops…and then, I noticed something I had never noticed before.

A fountain.

Not so unusual, you say? If you’ve been to Rome before, you would be aware that fountains are a dime a dozen, existing in the city for over two-thousand years. They decorate street corners, piazzas and buildings. Originally fed by nine aqueducts to provide drinking water and enhancement, they are part of the overall Italian art and architectural experience.

But this one…just down the street from my hotel….looked a little lonely and a little bit dilapidated, with no running water. Yet, there was something about it that was extremely intriguing, but we drove by a little too quickly. Since it wasn’t far, I decided that I would walk that way later in the afternoon and take a closer look.

In the circular Piazza dei Quiriti, the fountain that I had spied…was still there…and waiting for me…but now I knew a little bit more about its history.

Before I had taken my nap, I had learned (thanks to Google!) that this small fountain was one of five erected in Rome during the 1920s to embellish the city. A competition was held by the municipality and the winner, Attilio Selva, gave them not only what they wanted but also a bit of controversy.

Severely criticized not only for its naked female figures and the positions in which they were situated, but also because it sat in the shadow of the church of San Gioacchino in Prati. Because of the controversy it aroused, the inauguration was postponed for over a year. During that time, however, the new Fascist government, preferring the exhibition of naked bodies, as evidenced by the adornment of au natural images on various buildings, caused the disputation to be soon forgotten.

Except to those enroute to San Gioacchino in Prati and of course, the curiosity seekers.

And me.

The curiosity seeker, enroute to San Gioacchino.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Fontana Delle Cariatidi

  • Address: Piazza dei Quiriti, 00192 Roma, RM Italy
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Bus, 180F, 30, 32, 70, 81. Train, FC3, FL3, FL5. Metro, Line A.