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While visiting Venice is an amazing experience, after having been there many times, one gets the itch to see other cities in the region. Having already taken the train to Padua a few years prior, I was planning on seeing some other nearby cities. On this particular day, however, realizing that we had arrived a little earlier than normal, I decided to venture out a little further…to Verona.
Verona is one of the main tourist destinations in northern Italy, situated on the Adige River and known as the setting for two of William Shakespeare’s plays, Romeo and Juliet and The Two Gentlemen of Verona. Because of its artistic heritage and opera season staged in its Roman amphitheater, it attracts millions of visitors each year.
Ruled by the della Scala family during the 13th and 14th century, the city was extremely prosperous during their reign and this wealth can be spied throughout its boundaries today; in its monuments, walls and architecture and more. While I was aware that many tourists head straight to Juliet’s House and Museum, one of the most famous places in the city, I decided to do this as well, but also to see the other aspects that make this UNESCO World Heritage Site so special.
After the hour and ten minute train ride, I quickly ducked into a station shop to purchase a face mask for the return trip or for any other attraction which might require it. During my train ride, I had realized that KN95 face masks were still required on public transportation when conductors removed five British travelers at the stop prior to Verona’s Porta Nuova station. While I had a regular surgical mask, I realized that it was not enough and was thankful that I went unnoticed.
Thankful that crisis had been averted, I set out to walk to the city center, first stopping at the Porta Nuova (https://snappingtheglobe.com/?p=30718), the city’s old gate. Stopping for a few photos, I then continued on Corso Porta Nuova past Giardini Pradaval and its sculptures and statues, the Lapidary Museum Maffeiano and I Portoni della Bra the historic gate that once divided the city from the countryside and connects the Porta Nuova railway station to Piazza Bra. While I felt welcomed by the city gate Porta Nuova, it was when I walked through the arches of I Portoni della Bra that I felt as though I was truly entering the city and readied myself for the city’s beauty.
Having planned to see the amphitheater, I decided to take a detour and walk toward the river and the Castelvecchio Museum, since its opening hours were fewer. Making my way across its intimidating drawbridge into the courtyard, I then headed inside to make my way through its major Italian art collections distributed over twenty-nine rooms. Sculpture, paintings, ancient weapons, ceramics, goldsmiths, miniatures and ancient city bells were artfully displayed throughout the castle which dates back to the mid 1300s. While it was built as a residence for the della Scala family, it was mainly used for the military defense of the city and that is evident by its towering walls and battlements.
While I enjoyed my walk through the castle’s interior, what I really wanted to do was investigate the courtyards, the battlements and the clock tower. Climbing up the stairway, I made my way first to the rear of the castle and was rewarded with stunning views of the river and the Scaligero Bridge. It was a beautiful day and being out on the walls was the perfect place to be! Some of the passageways were a bit narrow but easy to navigate and to reach the seven towers. From the front of the castle, the views of the city, the large courtyard, the clock tower and the small courtyard beneath the tower were so stunning that I could have stayed up there all day. Finally, I passed through the adjacent walkway to the bridge and took a quick stroll across so that I could say “I did”.
If I was going to see everything, however, it was time to move on and I decided to continue my path along the Corso Cavour, which follows the river. A short stroll later, I passed the Arco dei Gavi, a massive, ancient white-marble arch which was was used as a gate in the walls during the Middle Ages. During the Napoleonic rule, French engineers demolished it and its ruins were moved to a square and then to the arena. In 1932, the arch was reconstructed, under Mussolini’s rule, in its current spot next to the Castelvecchio, very near its original location.
A little further down the road, I happened upon the Basilica di San Lorenzo. As I always make time for a church, I spent a few moments walking through this 12th structure. Built in the Romanesque style on the remains of a 5th or 6th century paleo-Christian building, using some of the original materials, it was interesting to see the two different types of building materials stemming from the different phases of construction…alternating brick and stone which gives the interior a striking pattern of strips in the columns and the walls and apse. Listening in to a tour guide’s spiel, I also learned that a unique feature is the presence of the women’s galleries, still intact and open onto three sides. Though my stop was a quick one, I was glad to see this beautiful church.
Near the Ponte della Vittoria, I decided to move into the city center as there was more to see in that domain. A few minutes later, I passed under the impressive Porta Borsari, the arched limestone gate, which dates back to the 1st century and served as the main entrance to the city.
There were many more churches, including the Church of St. Eufemia; some open, some closed for the afternoon, and as I spied many balconies, I thought of Juliet’s House, which I had planned to visit…whenever I got there! But of course, there was so much to see along the way!
Glancing at my watch, I decided to snatch a few moments at the Church of San Giovanni in Foro. A minor church, it was built on what was the main Roman road. Badly damaged by fire in 1172, while much of Verona was destroyed, its restoration in the early 1900s led to the discovery that Roman walls had been incorporated into the external walls of the church. It was small and dimly lit, but its beautiful mosaics, stone walls and ancient paintings made me glad that I had stumbled upon this gem.
Continuing on, I finally made my way to the beautiful Piazza delle Erbe, which was once the center of the city’s political and economic life. There were many market stalls hawking souvenirs and food, but there were lots of statues, fountains and other landmarks to see. More importantly, the square is surrounded by many buildings and monuments that have marked the history of Verona…City Hall, Lamberti Tower, the Houses of Mazzanti, Maffei Palace, the Gardello Tower and the Casa dei Mercanti (Merchant’s House). What I loved most, however, was the ancient fountain (circa 1368) with its roman statue, Madonna Verona, built by Bonino da Campione, which stands proudly in the center of the square and welcomes visitors to investigate its history.
My goodness…what wasn’t there to see? I love everything about Rome and its “in your face architecture”, but the simplicity of Verona with the minor details that begged you to slow down and savor it was unlike anything I had ever experienced in Italy. Everywhere I laid my eyes, there was stunning construction, architectural details on every building, including balconies upon which other Italian ladies, like the fictional Juliet, may have stood, conversing down to their young paramours.
Finding my way to the Scaliger Tombs, I decided that I needed to enter the premises so that I could see these stunning tombs at close range. After paying my entrance fee, I was given a handout to guide me through the small courtyard. Each of the elaborate tombs were unique and some just outright ostentatious. While passerby could get a glimpse through the iron bars of all of the tombs, I thought it much better to see their beauty unobstructed.
These five funerary monuments celebrate the Scaliger family who ruled in Verona from the 13th to the late 14th century. Located in a wrought-iron fenced enclosure of the church of Santa Maria Antica, these Gothic tombs were constructed for the wealthy members of the noble Scaliger dynasty who ruled as the Lords of Verona; Cangrande I, Mastino II, Cansignorio, Alberto II and Giovanni.
The church was open and I was given a covering for my shoulders as I entered. The modest sanctuary was dimly lit and quiet and it didn’t appear that photographs were appreciated by the woman keeping a sharp eye on the visitors. While I was able to capture a couple undetected, as I was inspecting the 14th century frescoes in the central nave, I took a moment to nod my head in prayer before leaving.
Finally, next on the list was the famed Juliet’s House, a short walk away. As expected, after walking through the short corridor to the courtyard, I found it extremely crowded with other visitors. Everyone was jockeying for position and waiting for their chance to pose with the bronze statue of Juliet. Noting the balcony above, and those also posing there for photographs, I figured out which door to enter to pay my admission.
Inside, there were statues paying homage to Shakespeare, another bronze statue of Juliet, period furniture and the bed and Renaissance costumes from Franco Zeffirelli’s 1968 film version of Romeo and Juliet. The wooden floors and artfully decorated ceilings were extremely cozy, although very roomy, depicting the wealth of the Capello family (from which the name Capulet was derived). Eventually, I was able to step out onto the balcony and also pose for a photo, but I was interested to find that even though the house dates back to 13th century, the balcony was only added during the 20th century.
On my way out, I noticed the red mailbox, which collects the letters “to Juliet” from visitors. Remembering the 2010 movie Letters to Juliet, I smiled at the messages visible in the small window in the center, glancing around, wondering where the women who volunteer to answer them were.
Just up the road, I happened upon Porta Leoni, the ancient gate that was built during the Roman Republic and features a double façade and two towers. Adjacent, below the street level are amazing Roman excavations.
The afternoon was dwindling away and although I had seen so much during my afternoon visit to Verona, I still wanted to see the amphitheater. Deciding to walk along the river in order to make navigation back to Corso Porta Nuova a little easier, I was stopped in my tracks by an imposing church on the corner.
Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore.
Oh, I was here and I couldn’t resist, so I went in, hoping I had enough time for everything else on my list…namely the amphitheater. The church was still open and I paid my admission, following the handout offered to me, which guided me to both the Upper and Lower churches.
Starting with the Lower church, I traversed the ancient staircase to reach the first and oldest cloister of the complex. Here, I marveled at the decorated ribbed vaults and frescoed columns which divided the space. Of particular note was the early 14th century fresco depicting the Virgin seated on a throne with baby Jesus and a 12th century fresco of the Baptism of Jesus. There is a tombstone of jurist Antonio Pelacani, who died in 1327, showing him teaching his students and another of scholar Master Omobono, built in 1330. In the presbytery, there is a wooden crucifix from the 14th century and in the right transept, the stone upon which saints Fermo and Rustico were beheaded.
Back upstairs in the Upper church, I found it to be a massive and towering space. Again, crumbling frescoes decorated the walls and a large wooden door was topped with a fresco of the Crucifixion of Christ. The single nave church contained five apses and of particular interest was the Della Torre altar, from the 18th century, Our Lady’s Chapel (1613), which contains a some significant paintings and the presbytery with its marble altar, created by Schiavi, on which the relics of Saints Fermo and Rustico are kept.
There were many tourists here and there was so much to see in the Upper Church that I spent much more time here than I had anticipated. As I finally exited San Fermo, I regained my routing along the river to head back toward the center of the city where the amphitheater was located. Taking much longer than I had anticipated, along with the heat of the afternoon slowing me down, I realized that I had maybe need to check the train schedule. I was still a ways from the train station and just over an hour away from Venice. As I realized that if I didn’t make the next train, I would be arriving into the Mestre station pretty late and I still needed to keep in mind dinner and the 20 minute walk back to my hotel. Upper ChurchThere were many tourists here and there was so much to see in the Upper Church that I spent much more time here than I had anticipated. As I finally exited San Fermo, I regained my routing along the river to head back toward the center of the city where the amphitheater was located. Taking much longer than I had anticipated, along with the heat of the afternoon slowing me down, I realized that I had maybe need to check the train schedule. I was still a ways from the train station and just over an hour away from Venice. As I realized that if I didn’t make the next train, I would be arriving into the Mestre station pretty late and I still needed to keep in mind dinner and the 20 minute walk back to my hotel.
Sadly, I had saved the amphitheater for last and it was not meant to be.
This time…
With so much to see in Verona, I was impressed with what I had undertaken and experience in a single afternoon. As there is much more enjoy in Verona, I realized that I would definitely return in the near future.
Pulling my KN95 mask from my bag…it was time to make that train.
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Castelvecchio Museum
- https://museodicastelvecchio.comune.verona.it/nqcontent.cfm?a_id=42545
- Address: Corso Castelvecchio, 2, Verona, Italy
- Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 1000 to1800. Last entrance at 1715. Closed Mondays, December 24, January 1.
- Admission: Adults, €6.00 (+ €.60 online presale), Children (ages 8-14 years), €1.00 (+€.10 online presale). Free admission for residents of 65 years in the Municipality of Verona, persons with disabilities and their companion, children up to 7 years, holders of the VeronaCard.
Arco dei Gavi
- https://www.verona.in/verona/what-to-see/details/arco-dei-gavi
- Address: Corso Cavour, 2, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
- Hours: 24 hours, daily
- Admission: free
Basilica di San Lorenzo
- https://verona.com/it/verona/chiesa-di-san-lorenzo/
- Address: Corso Cavour, 28, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
- Hours: 0900-1200 and 1500-1700
- Admission: free
Porta Borsari
- Address: Corso Porta Borsari, 57A, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
- Hours: 24 hours, daily
- Admission: free
Chiesa di San Giovanni in Foro
- Address: Corso Porta Borsari, 20, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
- Hours: hours unknown
- Admission: free
Piazza delle Erbe
- https://verona.com/en/verona/piazza-delle-erbe/
- Address: Piazza delle Erbe, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
- Hours: 0730-2030, daily
- Admission: free
Scaliger Tombs
- Address: Via San M. Antica 1, Verona VR, Italy
- Hours: unknown
- Admission: €3 (unverified)
Juliet’s House
- https://verona.com/en/verona/casa-di-giulietta/
- Address: Via Cappello, 23, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
- Hours: 0900-1900, daily
- Admission: Adults, €6
Porta Leoni
- Address: Via Leoni, 37100 Verona VR, Italy
- Hours: 24 hours daily
- Admission: free
Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore
- https://www.chieseverona.it/it/le-chiese/la-chiesa-di-san-fermo
- Address: Corte S. Elena, Piazza Duomo 35, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
- Hours: Monday to Friday, 1100-1800, Saturday, 0930-1800, Sunday, 1300-1800
- Admission: Single entry €4. Entry to four churches, San Fermo, San Zeno, Cathedral Complex and Santa Anastasia, Basilica of San Zeno, the Cathedral Complex, the Basilica of Santa Anastasia, €8