Category: Interior

Not So Bad

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The Badlands.

One of the world’s richest geologic deposits lies east of Rapid City. Ancient animals once roamed the land and today a wide array of wildlife can be spotted throughout the area.

I will just put it out there…the Badlands wasn’t a national park that I had aspired to visit. Although I had heard of it, it wasn’t one that I was familiar with. But hearing others insist that I make the drive and spend the day there, was enough to make me take some time to research how best to see it in its entirety while in South Dakota.

It had snowed a bit the night before and I was shocked to see those speeding along the interstate, trying to maintain the 80 mph speed limit. Creeping along at a tortoise-like speed, I spotted quite a few vehicles being pulled from the ditches and I wondered if I was making this long drive on the wrong day.

After a quick stop to see the famous Wall Drug and pick up lunch, I headed to the entrance of the park, first making a pitstop at Prairie Homestead, the place to be if you want to learn about the pioneers and first homesteaders. Though it was closed for the season, it seemed like a great place to see one of the last remaining original sod homes intact today. Many pieces of farm equipment were on display, but the best part was the many little prairie dogs running around on the premises. These were quite different than the ones I saw near Devil’s Tower…they were white! After many photos and a walk around the premises, it was time to head toward the park’s gates.

Although it was quite cold out and there was a light dusting of snow on the ground, I learned another great reason for visiting during the off-season…no entrance fee! Though I later learned that entrance fees are collected year round, maybe this was the day that someone decided to call in sick and there was no one to man the booth. Nevertheless, it was my good fortune to not have to pay the thirty dollar entrance fee!

Driving along, I was filled with anticipation because I really had no knowledge of what I would experience. A little was gleaned from looking at a map of the park, but I was excited to see what it consisted of in person. Not long after my entrance, I encountered a parking lot at the Big Badlands Overlook area. Parking my car at the base of some high geologic formations, I exited my car and walked around, following a sign pointing in the direction of the Door Trail. I made my way onto the boardwalk marveling at the large, rocky spires rising up on each side of me. The end of the boardwalk offered spectacular views over the landscape and I noticed where you could venture off of the boardwalk and make your way onto the cracked earth, riddled with gulleys and small hoodoos. Reading the directions on the posted sign, I learned that it was recommended to bring water, even during the winter, and follow the yellow trail markers along the half mile hike. Although I was alone, I decided to follow in the footsteps of two other guys who had departed just before me. Sometimes it was a bit difficult to spy the next marker, but as I stood in this foreign landscape, I likened it to being on another planet. Making it to marker 5, I decided that I had reached my limit, especially when I spotted the Beware of Rattlesnakes sign!

Finding the path back to the boardwalk, I made my way towards my car, but not before crossing the road to check out the entrance to the Castle Trail, which leads to other parts of the park. Heading back onto the Badlands Loop Road, I marveled at the stunning views that I passed, pulling over at every overlook that I came across. For once, I was thankful that no one was with me to complain about the constant breaks in my progression through the park…I simply could not help myself! It reminded me of the last time I had driven through the Valley of Fire in Nevada when each new perspective outdid the last!

Just past the Ben Reifel Visitor Center, which was closed, I spotted the Cedar Lodge, also locked down for the season. At Cedar Pass, I parked in the adjacent lot, followed the path to the boardwalk and leisurely made my way along its duration, all the while admiring the mountains that towered over me.

Back on the road, I delighted in the lack of traffic and the beauty of the day. Bright blue, almost cloudless skies hovered above me and when I came across the parking area at Saddle Pass Trail, which leads to Castle Trail, I decided it was time to take another walk and see nature’s artistry up close.

Continuing on, I drove through Norbeck Pass which is the transition zone between the upper and lower prairie environments separated by the famed Badlands Wall. It was truly amazing to almost have the park to myself. I could only imagine the amount of traffic that usually courses through the park during its peak season between Memorial Day and Labor Day. At first, I would pull over to admire the overlooks, however, when I realized that no one was ever behind me, I basically stopped in the road to take one of the thousands of pictures that I took that day.

The Fossil Exhibit Trail was next on the itinerary and I followed the boardwalk, reading the signage interspersed along its length. I gradually learned about the multitude of fossils discovered here and the animals that once called this area home.

Across the road was the opposite end of the Castle Trail that I had investigated earlier. I took a short walk along its length to check out an unusual geologic formation that I spotted from the distance.

A quick stop was made at the White River Valley Overlook and taking a look at my map, I realized that if I wanted to make the drive throughout the entire park, I would have to step it up. Finally around Burns Basin Overlook, I spotted horns sticking up from the grassy area along the road. Further up the road, I spotted Big Horn sheep grazing along the rocky shoulder making me realize that I had never seen Bison.

Thankfully, I had cell service and did a quick search on the best places to see bison in the park. I was directed to the western side of the park near Roberts Prairie Dog Town. So, I hadn’t missed them after all!

The beautiful Yellow Mound Overlook with its multicolored geology caused me to pull over once again. Yellow, purple, gray and striped reddish hills make for one of the most spectacular and colorful views in the entire park. Could this be the inspiration for the line in the song “America the Beautiful”? O beautiful for spacious skies, For amber waves of grain, For purple mountain majesties, Above the fruited plain!

I scouted more overlooks…the Ancient Hunters Overlook, the Pinnacles Overlook… and then, just past the Hay Butte Overlook, I finally saw my first bison. A group was situated in the grassy area on my right, a couple of adults and a calf. Pulling my car over to the shoulder of Sage Creek Rim Road, I grabbed my camera and walked to the rear of my car. Dark, beady eyes watched me carefully, making sure that I was no threat to its child. I didn’t dare go any closer, but when one of the adults got to its feet and turned its head towards me, I knew it was my cue to leave. How on earth would I explain to my car rental company how a bison dented my car?

A little further up on the road, I spotted a dark figure on the edge of a precipice. How nice of them to place a bison statue on the edge of the cliff! Yet as I drove closer, I realized what I was seeing was not a statue but a real live bison, standing still, alone, watching over its domain. I shot it as best I could with my camera, but if I could have been closer or had a better telephoto lens, this would have been the money shot!

Continuing on, I found this lone creature’s herd. An extremely large group of bison spread across the road and in the fields on either side. While extremely moving to be in such close proximity, it was also a bit disconcerting. Again, I worried that they might become excited and stampede. Under their watchful gaze, I drove slowly through the group until I reach Prairie Dog Town.

Much like the Prairie Dog Town I had observed near Devil’s Tower, I watched fascinated as they ran to and fro, freezing now and then to judge my presence and then duck down into their burrow. These rodents, whose name dates back to the 1700s, derive their moniker from their warning call that sounds much like a dog’s bark. Indeed, I must have been perceived as a threat, as I heard their communications from quite some distance.

Finally, as the sun was dipping down lower, I decided that it was time to call it a day. Knowing that I didn’t want to encounter bison on the roads after dark, I headed for the Pinnacles Entrance and on to Wall, where I merged on to the interstate.

For having no prior knowledge of this spectacular national park, I was so thrilled that I learned about it from a nice hunter in the airport gatehouse. It was possible that I would have learned about it simply from scouring a map or reading one of the brochures in my hotel lobby, but it could have been possible that I might have deemed another close attraction, like Bear Land, more enticing. Thankfully, I have learned to accept advice from other travelers!

So how would I rate my experience? Travel to the Badlands on icy roads during the winter months, but having the park to myself? I’d say it wasn’t so bad!

I would do it again in a heartbeat!

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Prairie Homestead

Badlands National Park

  • https://www.nps.gov/badl/index.htm
  • Address: 25216 Ben Reifel Rd, Interior, SD 57750, United States
  • Hours: 24 hours, 7 days a week
  • Admission: Private vehicle, $30.00 (for 7 days), Individual (Hiking, Bicycling, etc…for 7 days), $15.00, Motorcycle, $25.00 (for 7 days), Commercial Sedan, 1 to 6 passenger capacity, $25.00, Commercial Van, 7 to 15 passenger capacity, $50.00, Commercial Minibus, 16 to 25 passenger capacity, $60.00, Commercial Motorcoach, 26 or more passenger capacity, $150.00. Badlands National Park Annual Pass, $50.00.