Adventures in New Mexico Part 7-White Sands

©2022 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Snow saucers are relatively easy to find in cold weather climates, especially those that receive plenty of snow.

Finding them in southern New Mexico was pretty easy too!

Yes, there is a ski area just outside the town of Cloudcroft in the Lincoln National Forest east of Alamogordo, but in the warm month of May, those searching to purchase them want them for an area west of Alamogordo…White Sands.

White Sands National Park is an American national park located in southern New Mexico which is completely surrounded by the White Sands Missile Range. Covering 145,762 acres, including a 275 square mile field of white gypsum sand dunes, this area comprises the largest gypsum dune field of its kind on earth.

Many years ago, I learned of this park and it had been my dream ever since to see this field of shifting white sands with its 60 foot high dunes. While I’ve seen large, sugar-white sand dunes in the Destin area of Florida, those could not compare to these behemoths which provide a haven for hiking and sand sledding.

We had done some research and learned that saucers could be rented or purchased in the Visitor’s Center, but not wanting to leave it to chance, we opted to visit a local sporting goods store to purchase one shortly after our arrival into Alamogordo. Finding wax to coat it proved to be a bit more difficult, but thankfully, our hotel had some to give us, left by previous visitors.

Arriving early in the morning, so as to optimize our time in the park and to avoid the heat of the midday sun, we followed the road into the park mesmerized with the massive alabaster hills lining each side. Sand blew across the road as we trekked deeper into the recreational area and with no specific plan, we decided to continue our drive to see what we would find.

As anxious as we were to take a turn zooming down the dunes, we followed the Dunes Drive until we spotted a pull off for the Dunes Life Nature Trail. Parking our car along the fence leading to the trail, we grabbed our water and backpacks and followed the narrow trail toward the dunes rising in the distance. Seeking out the one-mile loop which winds through the edge of the white sands, we sometimes struggled to spy the markers leading the way across the bright field of white, but also took pleasure in spotting the desert life that resides throughout the area.

Dunes Life Nature Trail
Dunes Life Nature Trail
Dunes Life Nature Trail
Dunes Life Nature Trail
Dunes Life Nature Trail

While the windswept patterns of the sands was almost hypnotic, we took pleasure in analyzing the scrub, cacti and grasses that were scattered throughout the area, the bugs, beetles, caterpillars and lizards crawling through the sand, twisted pieces of sun-scorched wood and occasional flowers. As we found a lone tree, its roots exposed and flourishing like contorted appendages, we made it a temporary place of refuge from the sun and a place for an impromptu photo shoot. For a place that appears to be quite barren at first glance, it had a tremendous amount of natural life and beauty.

Dunes Life Nature Trail
Dunes Life Nature Trail
Dunes Life Nature Trail
Dunes Life Nature Trail
Dunes Life Nature Trail
Dunes Life Nature Trail

After our explorations were complete, we continued on Dunes Drive until we reached the pull off for the Interdune Boardwalk. Shaking the sand from our shoes from our first hike was a lengthy process but we didn’t have to worry as much about them filling up again as this wooden walkway took us out through the dune field for a short distance.

Interdune Boardwalk Trail

Finally, we headed to the rear of the park near the Group Use Area. Here, the dunes were massive, free of grasses and scrub, and we were able to back our car right up to the dunes in the picnic area. Using one of the shelters and its picnic table, we waxed up our saucer to allow for easier movement on the sand, and then made the difficult climb though the shifting sand to the top. Taking a seat in the saucer, we scooted to the edge and enjoyed the ride down! While the first slide wasn’t as quick as we had hoped, we learned that by using the path made from the previous slides, it compressed the sand, making subsequent slides much faster. If there had just been a bit of rain, the sand would have been tightly packed making the dunes very slippery, but I wasn’t willing to trade our beautiful day for rain!

Waxing our saucer.
Our first runs in the Group Use Area

It was such a rush, but unlike skiing where the chair lift takes you back up to the top, we had to climb, feet sinking into the sand, to the lift off point. It was extremely exhausting! After a while, however, we learned to use the more stable ridges for the climb up and then figured out that it was easier if we removed our shoes. While we would have expected the sand to be extremely hot, we discovered that the gypsum is quite cool and refreshing and it was also easier to find our footing during the climb.

What was also amazing was when at the top, you could look out for miles at the fields of white. Windswept sands, creating beautiful patterns, were set against a crisp blue sky and it looked as if you could walk forever! It was a breathtaking sight!

All white for miles!

After a few slides, we decided to continue our drive and see if we could find a different area to continue our fun. Not too far away, near one of the backcountry and horse trails, we found some higher and steeper dunes, which we absolutely had to try! By this time, the wind was blowing a bit harder and believe me, when sand gets into your mouth, it doesn’t melt like snow! For this reason, as well as for the glare, sunglasses (or maybe goggles when the sand is blowing hard) are a must!

Dunes Drive in the rear of the park…unpaved packed gypsum.
More sledding fun!

Eventually with a glance at our watches, we realized that our fun at White Sands National Park was coming to a close. Heading toward the front of the park, we made a stop at the Visitors Center. Here, we took a look at the exhibits which outline the topography and wildlife of the park and the Tulurosa Basin. While perusing the various items in the gift shop, we noticed a group of young adults looking at the saucers that were for sale in the gift shop. After watching them leave without the purchase, I instructed my son to chase after them and offer ours so that they could enjoy the park as we did. They were very appreciative and we told them to just gift it to another person before leaving the park!

It was now time to begin our long journey back to Albuquerque so that we could make our flight home the next day. There was somewhere I wanted to stop first, however. As we had journeyed into Alamogordo, I had noticed signs with the advertisment “Come See the World’s Largest Pistachio”. My curiosity was piqued and with it being on the highway we were going to be driving on, I decided that we had to stop.

Pistachio Land is a tourist attraction located on Highway 70 near Alamogordo. A pistachio farm which offers tours of their operation and orchard, they also offer a gift shop with free pistachio samples, an ice cream shop and of course, the world’s largest pistachio! No, it’s not real…just a large reproduction made of plaster and concrete located in the parking lot. Still…a great photo op!

The World’s Largest Pistachio!

After our obligatory snaps with the gigantic pistachio, we headed into the shop and walked out with about six bags of different flavored pistachios…my husband’s favorite snack. It was so much fun hanging out at the pistachio dispenser and sampling the unique flavors! My favorite? Dill pickle!

While we would have loved to take part in a tour, it was time to make our final three hour trek back north. Seeing a lot of the same desert scenery and mountains along the way, we plodded along until we passed something interesting. The Valley of Fires.

The Valley of Fires recreation area is located adjacent to the Malpais Lava Flow which was formed approximately 5,000 years ago when Little Black Peak erupted and flowed 44 miles into the Tularosa Basin, filling it with molten rock. The lava flow is over six miles wide, covers approximately 125 square miles and is one of the youngest lava flows in the continental United States. It can be viewed very well from the highway and there are a couple of pull-offs so that you can park and take a closer look. It was great to stretch our legs and see another unique area of New Mexico. If you have time, take a walk through what at first appears to be fields of barren rock, but actually offers many varieties of flowers, cactus, trees and bushes, typical of the Chihuahuan desert plus many animals including bats, roadrunners, quail, deer, sheep and lizards.

Valley of Fires…not to be confused with The Valley of Fire in Nevada

After our unexpected desert discovery, we were back in the car and on our way to the completion of our trip in Albuquerque. We had literally traveled full circle throughout the state and were leaving with lots of memories and experiences. New Mexico was not what I expected…it was more!

Did we see everything? No, but what we had seen was simply amazing…ancient structures and settlements, petroglyphs, museums, artwork, UFOs, caverns, sand dunes and a whole lot of desert landscapes! What we didn’t see in this amazing state will have to wait for our next trip because we are definitely going back.

Our adventures in New Mexico was exactly that…an adventure and a good one at that!

For more pictures and sledding videos, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

White Sands National Park

  • https://www.nps.gov/whsa/index.htm
  • Address: 19955 Highway 70 West, Alamogordo, New Mexico 88310
  • Hours: January 29-March 11, 0700-1900, daily. March 12-April 8, 0700-0800. April 9-September 9, 0700-2100. Other operating hours, 0700-1800. Visitor’s Center, 0900-1700, daily.
  • Admission: Vehicle Entrance, $25.00 (valid for reentry for seven consecutive days from the date of purchase). Single Person Entrance (entry by walking or bicycle), $15.00 (valid for reentry for seven consecutive days from the date of purchase). Motorcycle Entrance, $20.00 (valid for reentry for seven consecutive days from the date of purchase). Annual Vehicle Pass, $45.00 (admits the pass holder and three persons, 16 years and older, in a private non-commercial vehicle into the park for free for a period of one year from month of purchase. It can only be purchased at the entrance station to White Sands National Park. This pass does not apply to special use fees, such as camping and interpretive program fees. America the Beautiful Annual Park Pass, $80.00 (covers entrance, standard amenity fees and day use fees for a driver and all passengers in a personal vehicle at per vehicle fee areas (or up to four adults at sites that charge per person). Children age 15 or under are admitted free.

McGinn’s PistachioLand

  • https://pistachioland.com/
  • Address: 7320 US Highway 54/70, 37 Highway 82, Alamogordo, New Mexico 88310
  • Hours: 1000-1700, daily. Tours offered, 1000-1600, daily. Closed Christmas and Thanksgiving.
  • Admission: Free. Tours, $3. Children under 5 years, free.

Valley of Fires

Adventures in New Mexico Part 6-Carlsbad, But All’s Good

©2022 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Heading so far south into New Mexico had me wondering if we had made the right decision going so far out of our way. But, I was told we couldn’t miss one of the state’s natural wonders…

Carlsbad Caverns.

As we headed farther south, we noticed fields of oil wells pumping out their liquid gold, so it was no surprise upon our arrival that many of the hotels, ours included, catered to long-term guests in the petroleum industry. This meant, however, that we were able to secure a larger room with a kitchen and an early breakfast in the morning as many of these workers make these hotels their home away from home.

Since Carlsbad Caverns was located about 20 miles southwest of the city center, we were packed up and grabbing a bite to eat with the oil field workers so that we could make our arrival before the opening of the Visitor’s Center. Even though it wasn’t yet the height of tourist season, we anticipated a large number of visitors and wanted to be one of the first in line since we had only half a day to experience the caverns and then make it to our next destination, over three hours away.

Winding our way up to the Visitor’s Center, we secured a parking spot and found ourselves fifth in line. As anticipated, by the time the doors were unlocked, a line snaked to the parking lot behind us. Using our America the Beautiful Pass for admission, we also signed up and paid for the ranger-led tour of the King’s Palace, a part of the caverns off limits except when accompanied by park personnel. We also opted to hike to the cavern entrance instead of taking the elevators. At the time, I really did not have an opinion about either, however, being accompanied by my son, he insisted that we hike, a decision I would later appreciate.

Since we were told we were unable to enter the cavern for another half hour, we spent some time inspecting the museum exhibits. As the appointed time neared, we all gathered near the door, expecting a ranger to come over and unlock it or have it magically swing open. When this didn’t happen, we all paced and glanced at our watches, thinking that our precious time in the cavern was dwindling. Eventually, my son tried the door, finding it unlocked! Yes, we were unable to go to the cavern until 0830, however, we all could have walked the trail to the starting point! What do they say about sheep and the cliff?

When we reached the gathering point, a ranger greeted us and gave us some important information about our trek. From here, we would walk to the cavern entrance a short distance away and after our visit, we could either hike back out or take the elevator back to the Visitor’s Center.

And so it began.

As we started our walk, we soon saw the giant, dark, gaping maw that was the access to the caverns. Much larger than I ever anticipated, I watched the bats circling near and from the entrance as we walked back and forth along the hairpin trail into the abyss. One thing we had learned from the ranger was that during the evening, the park hosts its nightly Bat Program which allows visitors to experience the wonder of thousands of bats flying out of the cavern and into the night sky (April to October) from the amphitheater at sunset. With regret, we wished that we had known of this event so that we could have journeyed here the night before. On this day, however, we would have to be content to watch the bats flying to and fro above our heads.

Cold and damp, we were glad that we had opted to don pants and pullovers and of course sneakers for the loose gravel and dirt path. Into the darkness, we proceeded, following the 1.25 mile Natural Entrance Trail and the occasional sign directing us to specific items to note. Extremely steep, we lost about 750 feet…equivalent to walking up or down a 75-story building…for about an hour.

As we made our way, we reflected on the fact that this was what sixteen-year old Jim White first experienced in 1898 when he stumbled upon one of the largest cave systems in the world, Carlsbad Caverns. Here, while we had explicitly placed lighting, well-maintained trails and a cafeteria a short distance away, he had explored with homemade torches, string to find his way back, food and water.

Little by little, he and a friend mapped the enormous caving system, naming each of the areas with monikers of what it reminded him of. Whale’s Mouth, with its draperies and flowstone, The Green Lake Room for its, yes, green lake, The Lion’s Tail for its stalactite and popcorn and the Temple of the Sun with its tall columns, stalactites and stalagmites.

Whale’s Mouth
Old Staircase

Finally, we approached the Big Room. Glancing at our watches, we had a decision to make…head left toward the cafeteria to await our tour of the King’s Palace or keep going a short distance and then return the way we had come at our tour’s appointed time. Opting for the second choice, we continued through the impressive large limestone chamber, which is almost 4,000 feet long, 625 feet wide and 255 feet tall at its highest point. The fifth largest chamber in North America, it is also the twenty-eighth largest in the world. Following the snaking loop trail, we skirted thousands of rock formations, delicate sculptures, columns, cave bacon and popcorn, tubes, spires, fossils, ribbons, drapes, curtains, stalagmites, helictites, stalactites, totem poles, flowstone, soda straws and more all in the 357,469 square feet of the Big Room. As mesmerized as we were, we had to turn back to meet our guide, however, we knew that we would come this way again, shortly.

Gathering in the cafeteria area (which was not in operation at the time), we joined about thirty other visitors and our ranger for what was to be a one and a half hour, 1 mile guided tour through four highly decorated cave chambers into the deepest portion of the cavern…830 feet beneath the earth’s surface.

Following our ranger down an 80 foot descent, we marveled at the details and rooms for which Jim White had named the King’s Palace for its opulence. Listening to stories about the cave’s geology and early explorer’s experiences, we made our way through the first of the four chambers known as the scenic rooms, which contains a spectacular large castle-like formation in the center of the 100-foot tall expanse.

King’s Chamber

Continuing on to the Papoose Room, located between the King’s Palace and the Queen’s Chamber, we entered a small room which was similar in context to the King’s Palace. Hundreds of impressive stalactites clung from the ceiling and stalagmites sprouted from the ground.

Papoose Room

Next was the Queen’s Chamber, considered the most beautiful of the four scenic caves, with its highlight being the 40-foot tall floor to ceiling drapery column and the delicate formations resembling lace and filigree.

Queen’s Drapery Column
Queen’s Chamber

Finally, we headed back through the King’s Chamber on our way to the final chamber in the assemblage, the Green Lake Room, passing the Bashful Elephant, which indeed, does appear to be a small elephant viewed from its rear. The Green Lake Room is the uppermost of the four rooms and named after the deep, malachite colored lake in the corner of the room. An interesting tale was related by our guide about how in the 1940s, the military, using the caverns as an emergency fallout shelter, used the lake to look for ripples caused by an atomic bomb test miles away. As none ever appeared, it was believed that Green Lake Room could be a viable shelter in case of a nuclear attack.

Bashful Elephant
Green Lake Room

Finally, after hearing many tales of Jim White’s explorations, we were all seated on a bench. Our ranger asked us to completely turn off our cellphones and then he proceeded to shut off all lights in the chamber. At this moment, you realize that you have never experienced total darkness, even when you thought you had…at night…in your bedroom. This was something different…until I moved my arm and my Apple Watch gave the area around us a greenish glow, flashing 11:25. Embarrassed for ruining the moment, I quickly removed my watch and placed it under my leg! However, for the mistake, it did give us a small glimpse of how Jim White might have viewed the space with a single candle.

Making our way back to the tour starting point, we then resumed our explorations of the Great Room back from the spot we had left earlier. There was much to see including the Stone Lily Pads, table-like shelf stone formations at the edge of a now dry pool, the Silent Bell, the Crystal Spring Dome which is the largest active stalagmite in the cavern and having a bell-like appearance, the Rock of Ages, a huge column, the Chinese Theater, which contains beautiful columns stalactites and stalagmites and the Dolls Theater, a recessed area with soda straws and small columns.

Bottomless Pit
Cave Bacon
Mirror Lake
Stone Lily Pads
Silent Bell
Rock of Ages
Dolls Theater
Chinese Theater

All in all, our trek throughout the three miles of rooms and passageways of the main cavern took us much longer than expected. The sheer size of the cavern was unlike anything we had ever experienced and it was mind blowing that there are still parts undiscovered and more than 27 miles of passages are not open to the public! There were times when my mind began to wander, thinking that if an earthquake would suddenly happen in this area while we were so far below ground…I had to redirect my thoughts because, well, I just couldn’t fathom the consequences!

Finishing our circuit, we found ourselves back at the elevators and waited patiently for our return to the Visitor’s Center and civilization!

With our tour of what some call “one of the seven wonders of the world”, we headed back to Carlsbad in anticipation of the next leg of our journey.

Returning north, we headed toward Artesia where we took a westerly turn. A short time after our turn onto Route 82, I spotted an enormous sculpture resembling an oil rig. Anxious to get to our destination, but also curious about what it was, I made a U-turn and parked. While the city also boasts one of the best collections of bronze sculptures in the area and a diverse public mural program which celebrate its rich history, this major piece of sculptural work is the one to see if you only have time to devote to a single piece. The Derrick Floor, is dedicated “to the men and women who take risks and do the work to find, produce and refine New Mexico oil and gas.” The drilling rig is a 34-foot high cast with a four man crew created in 125 percent life size scale and sits in a pool of cascading water. It was designed by Vic Payne and dedicated in April of 2004.

My curiosity sated, we headed back to the road and continued our journey west through Lincoln National Forest toward Alamogordo and White Sands. Though most of our journey in New Mexico had been through dry, scrubby barren land, we welcomed the change of scenery as the landscape changed to a lush mountainous and forested region. Though there wasn’t much to see, besides a couple of shops and not many places to stop (plan your bathroom breaks accordingly), we finally emerged on the far side to some amazing mountainous overlooks in Cloudcroft. Happy for the opportunity to stretch our legs we pulled over to take a few photos.

Alamogordo welcomed us with a hot dry wind. As we glanced out toward the area where White Sands National Park was located, we could see a haze in the air and I wondered if conditions would make our planned excursion the next day a no-go. But first, in order for that excursion to take place, we had one thing to do.

Find some snow saucers and ski wax!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Carlsbad Caverns

  • https://www.nps.gov/cave/index.htm
  • Address: 3225 National Parks Highway, Carlsbad , New Mexico  88220
  • Hours: Visitor’s Center, 0800-1700, daily. Last cavern entrance ticket sold, 1415. Last cavern entrance, 1430. Elevator into the cavern, 0830-1430. Last elevator out of the cavern, 1645. Hike into the cavern, 0830-1430, Last time to hike out of the cavern, 1530 (complete hike out by 1630). National park closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day. Free entry for America the Beautiful Pass and other passes (see website for more information).
  • Admission: Adults (16 years and older), $15.00, Children (under 16 years), free.

Artesia Bronze Sculptures

The Lions Next Door

©2022 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Having been on safari in Tanzania, I knew that the Bandia Reserve in Senegal, had its shortcomings.

While I absolutely loved visiting and had done so three times, there was the glaring fact that it was missing some of the animals that captivate thrill seekers…the big cats. Because it is a private reserve comprising just over 8600 acres and is surrounded by fencing, the animals that do reside there…giraffes, deer, ostrich…would be sitting ducks. There are a few hyenas that reside in the front of the park, however, they are in their own enclosure and not free to roam.

On my last visit to Bandia Reserve, I did learn something…Ranch de Bandia, a lodge which offers lion experiences, had opened recently adjacent to the reserve.  Offering up close interactions with lions, it was meant to fill the gap where The Bandia Reserve was lacking while still offering a Safari experience with big cats and a place for visitors to call home while surrounded by African wildlife.

Located only 70 kilometers from Dakar (45 minutes), it is an easy drive from the city and also located near the resort town of Saly, a popular tourist destination.  Since we were staying near the downtown area, we decided to do both activities (Bandia Reserve and Ranch de Bandia) in order to make the most of our time and the drive.

Arriving in the late morning to Bandia, we quickly realized that early arrivals and late afternoons are probably best for animal spotting.  The midday hour is when most animals are inactive due to the heat and it was on this trip when I saw the least amount of wildlife.  We still managed to see enough to make our trip worthwhile, however, the park’s rhinos remained elusive on this trip.

Bandia Reserve Entrance
Ticket booths and safari vehicles

Hyenas in their enclosure at the front of the park
Tortoises
Giraffes

Giraffes

Giraffes
Ostriches

African Buffalo
A family of “Pumbas”

Fighting Pumbas
Bridge crossing

Spotting a giraffe
The “Elephant” Baobab tree
Many kinds of deer and elk reside in the park
Monkeys
Monkey showing off

After our safari at Bandia was complete, we headed back thru the entrance gates and over to Ranch de Bandia, across the highway. 

Preparations had already been made by our tour guide, Mass Kane, so we were all set to take off on our 30 minutes of exploration into the lions’ territory. 

Loading up into the park’s specially equipped vehicles, we noticed pieces of meat still sitting on top of the truck’s iron mesh that enclosed it.  Flies were everywhere, attracted by the smell and the bloody mess, but if this was the way to attract the lions, we had to get used to it.


Lion Park Safari vehicle
Leftovers

Snack time!

Entering the gates of the enclosure, we could hear the roars of an angry cat in the distance; Malik, a territorial lion protesting our arrival.  Moving through the second set of gates, the sound of his roars became much louder and as we turned onto a small roadway, we spotted him behind a bush in a clearing.  Realizing that he would soon partake of a meal, he came forward, jumping onto the hood of our vehicle and then climbing onto the roof.  It was an amazing experience to have such  ferocious, yet beautiful creature that close to us.  As he shifted closer to the back of the truck above where I was seated, I could smell his musky scent and feel the mud from his paws falling down into my hair.  All in the experience, right?  I was definitely going to need a shower when I got home!

Inside Malik’s enclosure
Malik
Malik

Moving back to the front of the truck, he interacted with the driver and guide who, through an opening in the front mesh, doled out his afternoon snack.  Finally, growing tired of us, he jumped off and headed back into the trees, seeking shelter from the afternoon’s heat.

Starting up our truck, we drove through and then exited the enclosure into another area.  A small bit of travel ensued before we finally spotted the first of two female lions. One, named Savannah, stood under a tree watching us warily before approaching, yet still maintaining a bit of distance.  We drove along the road with her staying nearby until we came across her mate, Madibah, a proud male.  Promptly, Madibah jumped into the hood and waited for his treat, while Savannah waited patiently nearby.  After he was satisfied, he climbed onto our roof and Savannah took her turn, giving us some great photo opportunities with the assistance of our guide.


Savannah
Madibah
Madibah
Savannah on our roof
Savannah
Savannah and Madibah
Madibah hanging out on our roof

While I don’t recommend it, we did get some pretty decent shots of Madibah by holding our phone’s camera through an opening at the top of the vehicle.  After trying it once, (seeing another friend successfully photograph Madibah this way), I was roared at, causing me to quickly pull my phone inside. On a trip a week later, another friend had Madibah grab her phone from her, biting it and hurling it from the vehicle onto the muddy road. 

I wonder if Apple Care covers that!

Our thirty minute adventure soon came to a close and we headed back to where we had started. 

What I did learn later, however, is that in addition to the adult lion encounter, Ranch de Bandia also offers a baby lion encounter.  This was not an option offered to us nor to any of my friends who visited near that time, leaving me to wonder if it is something that has been added recently or if there were no baby lions at that time.

A visit to both parks is something special for visitors to Senegal.  An opportunity to see many animals in a protected reserve is unique to the area and should not be missed!  And if you travel with my friend and tour guide, a great dinner on the beach in nearby Saly can wrap up your day’s adventures!!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Ranch de Bandia

  • Lion cub activity, 1000-1530, daily, 15 minutes.  25,000CFA per person. 18 years and over only.  Mandatory dress required: trousers and closed shoes.
  • Lion Safari, 0900-1630, daily, 30 minutes. Children ages, 3-10 years, 10,000CFA per person. Adults, 20,000CFA per person.
  • Compulsory vehicle rental for the safari, 20,000 CFA for a maximum capacity of 7 people.

The Motherland Experience




What Goes Up…Must Come Down, Part One

©2022 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Our plans for the day included two things…

Mount Jacinto and the Palm Springs Air Museum. Fitting to combine them since both involve going high up into the atmosphere and then returning back to terra firma…and in the case of some of these aircraft…permanently!

If you are ever interested in heading to Mount Jacinto, REMEMBER…it is at a much higher altitude! Even if people are wearing shorts in the downtown area, when you get to the aerial tram parking lot, you’ll see lots of people in heavy jackets and snow clothes during the winter months. We had planned semi-accordingly, and I will say that because although I had brought a warm jacket, I had worn tennis shoes with short socks! When I stepped out of the car and walked to the aerial tram station, my ankles were asking “why” and we weren’t even to the top yet!

The idea for the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway was conceived in 1935 by Francis Crocker, a young electrical engineer. During the heat of the day on a visit to Banning, California, he looked up at the snow-capped peak of Mount San Jacinto and wished that he were able to go there “where it was nice and cool.” With the assistance of O. Earl Coffman, Francis Crocker set out to make this desire a reality. Construction of the tramway, in the rugged Chino Canyon on the north edge of Palm Springs, was finally started (after countless roadblocks) in 1961.

Engineers were challenged to overcome the jagged terrain by the use of helicopters in the erection of four of the five supporting towers, with only the first able to be reached by road. Twenty-three thousand helicopter missions, twenty-six months of construction and hundreds of workers resulted in the the completion of the towers and the 35,000 square foot Mountain Station, after two years of strenuous labor.

On September 12, 1963, local and state dignitaries and countless celebrities took the tram’s inaugural ride to the Mount Jacinto’s peak with Francis Crocker occasionally riding along, giving a narration of the construction process and of course, so that he could go “where it was nice and cool.”

Since we had not purchased our tickets online, we easily purchased them at the Valley Station ticket counter and then waited for our timed boarding process to begin. Stepping out of the rear of the station, we gazed up at the miniscule Johnson Falls cascading down on the rocky face before spotting the signs warning of rattlesnakes in the area…back inside for us!

Valley Station
Valley Station Exterior

In the small Tramway History Museum (after searching fruitlessly for socks in the gift shop), we watched a film on the tram’s construction process and regarded the photographs which documented this feat of engineering until an announcement was made regarding our boarding.

Tramway History Museum

After a few minutes wait in an anteroom, the doors were opened and we were allowed to board the tram car. As in any case such as this, passengers jockeyed for position to be sure to get the foremost and lowest windows, but as the tram began its ascent, we realized that during the 1998 modernization project, the cars had been updated. These new cars became the largest rotating cars in the world offering all passengers the most spectacular views, regardless of where they stood in the car, during its two complete revolutions on its ten minute, 2.5 mile ride.

As we ascended toward the peak on this clear, sunny day, we were fortunate to have outstanding views of the rocky Chino Canyon and the desert plains of the Coachella Valley. An exhilarating ride, we delighted in the grand perspective and even the swinging of the car as its arm passed atop each tower…something my husband who is terrified of heights was dreading.

Exiting into the Mountain Station, at an elevation of 8,516 feet, we took some time to take in the views from two of its observation decks, while we stepped around the newly fallen snowdrifts. Yes, my ankles were extremely cold at this point!

Mountain Valley Station Observation Deck Views

Finally, a walk down the paved trail behind the station, led us to the trails of the state park. Deciding to follow Desert View trail into the park proved to be a bit difficult at times due to the snow and icy conditions, but we persevered, despite me falling down hard at one point. No broken bones, but we got some great photos, built a small snowman, watched families have a great time sledding down the small hills and learned about some of the trees and wildlife of the area through the park’s signage. It is easy to imagine that it must be quite lovely here during the summer months!

Once back inside the (much warmer) Mountain Station, we browsed the wildlife exhibits and watched another movie about the tram’s construction until it was time to make our way down to the Valley Station. Here, we realized how smart it was to make the start of our day an early one. Whereas we had entered the station and walked directly to the counter to purchase our tickets, we now discovered a line stretching from the counter, outside, down the steps and onto the sidewalk. And…while we had parked directly in front of the station, cars were then being directed to one of many parking lots only accessible by trolley.

Mountain Station Exhibits

Whew! Hard to get up in the morning, but worth the effort!

Best part of getting up so early…we had time to have lunch downtown and then head to the Palm Springs Aviation Museum! Another trip to the clouds…well sort of!

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Mount Jacinto Aerial Tram

  • https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/sbnf/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=74226&actid=50
  • https://pstramway.com/
  • Address: 1 Tram Way Palm Springs, California 92262
  • Hours: Monday through Friday, First Tram up 10:00 am, Last Tram up 4:30 pm, Last Tram down 6:00 pm. Saturday, Sunday and Holidays, First Tram up 8:00 am, Last Tram up 4:30 pm, Last Tram down 6:00 pm
  • Admission: Adults, $28.95, Children (ages 3-10), $16.95, Seniors (65+), $26.95. Tickets can be purchased online, however, if online tickets are sold-out for any day, tickets are still available, but can only be purchased on the day of your visit at the Tram’s Valley Station.
  • Getting There: From Downtown Palm Springs, head east on E. Tahquitz Canyon Way toward E Tahquitz Canyon Way, turning left onto N. Calle Encilia. Turn left onto E. Alejo Road and then right onto N. Indian Canyon Drive. Turn left onto E. Stevens Road and then right at the first cross street onto N. Palm Canyon Drive. Pas by 7-Eleven and then take a left onto Tramway Road. Destination will be on the right.

BIG Plans in the BIG City

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Everything’s BIGGER in Texas, right?

Years ago, when I lived in Dallas, I always heard people say this, so when I visited Austin for the first time, I expected BIG things there as well.  

Did I find that?

You bet!

Being downtown has its advantages. It’s a BIG city, but everything is close by. Or so I thought!  

My initial plan was to take a walk along the river, enjoy the scenery and city views and then head over to one of Austin’s local attractions. It was a beautiful day and I thought it would be nice to be outdoors and get my daily dose of culture.

After a short time, I happened upon the statue of music legend Stevie Ray Vaughan. It was a normal sized statue, but the bronze effigy, erected in 1994, depicts the Blues guitarist in his customary poncho, straight brimmed hat and western boots, as he appeared to his adoring fans before his death…LARGER than life.

Seeking out more three-dimensional art, my next destination was to be the Umlauf Sculpture Garden and Museum. Thinking I could continue my trip along the river and be there in a short amount of time, I soon discovered that my short walk was actually a long one. BIG mistake!  Silly me…I had plugged in the driving directions on my phone instead of the walking directions and it was a lot farther than I thought. Too invested to give up at this point, I plodded onward but I was glad I did.

The Umlauf Sculpture Garden and Museum, exhibits the works of Charles Umlauf and other visual and performing artists displayed in a peaceful setting filled with native Texas plants and trees. The site once contained small ponds which were used by soldiers to practice fly casting during the 1930s and 1940s. Becoming overgrown and neglected during later years, the property was then given to the City of Austin and transformed into a sculpture garden for the dozens of bronze and stone pieces gifted to the city in 1991, by 20th century American sculptor, Charles Umlauf.

As I made my way through the property, I encountered stunning sculptural works of art amid waterfalls, streams, pathways, flowers and natural beauty. With not just one theme on display, I encountered three-dimensional depictions of men, women, children, animals and religious subjects. In addition, there were a few pieces, including the winning project, from the design competition, Design Shine 2020…a BIG deal!

Deciding not to make the long walk back to the city, I called Uber in anticipation of arriving in time to see Austin’s BIGGEST spectacle during the spring and summer months. The nightly emergence of the bats at the Congress Avenue Bridge!  

Never had I heard of the Austin bats! Only when I mentioned to a friend that I was going to be in the Music City did she tell me what an amazing experience it is and that I was going to be there during the prime viewing season.

But first, I wanted a quick look around the downtown area.  

Approaching from Congress Avenue, I admired the grand State Capitol building with its BIG dome, viewable all the way from the Congress Street Bridge.  It was getting late in the day and although I was aware that tours, both guided and self-guided were offered, I didn’t have the time, especially if I was going to see the bats.  Glancing at my watch, I also realized that the last tours departing would be in a few minutes…definitely not enough time to make my way across the lawn and make the necessary arrangements. But as I entered the front gates, I discovered that sticking with the theme of the day…BIG statues…I could make the most of the rest of my afternoon. 

The Texas Confederate Memorial Lawn has some amazing monuments designed and constructed by notable sculptors along its Great Walk and on the grassy lawns to the east and west.  Here, you can find the African American History Memorial (West Lawn), Spanish American War Memorial, (West Lawn), Memorial to Volunteer Firefighters (Great Walk), the Monument to Confederate Soldiers (Great Walk), Memorial to the Texas Rangers (Great Walk), Heroes of the Alamo Monument (Great Walk), Artesian Fountain Exhibit (East Lawn) and the Tejano Monument (East Lawn).  In fact, the collection is so BIG, that even though I glanced at one of the maps, I still missed so many more statues located at the rear of the Capitol building…Ten Commandments, Texas Schoolchildren, Pioneer Woman, Pearl Harbor, Statue of Liberty, World War I, World War II, Korean War Veterans, Vietnam Veterans, Disabled Texas Veterans and Texas Police Officers.  I now definitely have motivation to return!

Texas African American History Memorial
Memorial to Volunteer Firefighters
Monument to Confederate Soldiers
Memorial to the Texas Rangers
Heroes of the Alamo Monument
Artesian Fountain Exhibit
Tejano Monument

Oh well, it was getting late, and I wanted to be sure not to miss the BIG event!

As I headed back down Congress Avenue, I marveled at the architecture as well as the graffiti artwork displayed on many of the buildings and in alleyways. My favorite, however, was the BIG guitar on Congress Avenue, designed by Craig Hein, giving homage to Austin’s musical roots.

Earlier, while walking along the river, I had observed signs for boat companies that offer trips out on the river so that riders get a prime view of the emergence at sunset. Other companies offered kayak trips for similar views but not being sure of my plans at the time, I had not made any reservations. Instead, I took my place along the rail on the pedestrian walkway, along the river on the north bank, with hundreds of other people and waited. To be honest, at that time, I wasn’t quite sure what I was waiting for.

Finally, I heard a gasp and saw my fellow observers pointing. There they were. Hundreds of Brazilian Free-Tailed bats were emerging from the 16-inch-deep crevices between concrete beams of the bridge, their nesting spot during the day, and taking flight in search of their evening meal.

Little did I know, at the time, how lucky I was to see this phenomenon as weather sometimes dictates their appearance with hot or warm, dry weather being the optimum conditions. 100,000 bats live under the bridge, rearing their young and then migrating to Mexico during the winter months.

Although I was able to see the long columns of bats in the darkening sky, it was obvious that there are many other prime viewing locations, in the river and on the opposite bank.

Weary, yet excited, I stumbled back in the direction of my hotel, hoping to find a BIG burrito and a BIG margarita…because you can’t go to Austin and expect anything less!

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Stevie Ray Vaughan Statue

  • Address: Riverside Drive & South First

Umlauf Sculpture Garden and Museum

  • https://www.umlaufsculpture.org/
  • Address: 605 Azie Morton Road, Austin, Texas 78704
  • Hours: Tuesday-Friday, 1000-1600, Saturday and Sunday, 1100-1600. Closed Monday. Closed Independence Day, Labor Day, Austin City Limits Music Festival, December 24 and 25, December 31 and January 1.
  • Admission: Members, free, Adults, $7.00, Seniors (60+), $5.00, Students, $3.00, Youth, 13-17 years, $1.00, Children under 12, Active Military and Veterans, free.

Austin Bats

Texas State Capitol

  • https://tspb.texas.gov/prop/tc/tc/capitol.html
  • Address:  1100 S Congress Ave, Austin, Texas
  • Hours: Texas Capitol and Extension: Monday-Friday, 0700-2000, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-2000. Easter Sunday, Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day. Grounds open daily, 0700-2000. Capitol Visitor’s Center, Monday-Friday, 0900-1700, Saturday and Sunday, 1200-1700. Easter Sunday, Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day. Monday-Friday, guided tours of the Capitol are available on a limited basis between 9:30 a.m. and 4 p.m. with the last tour departing at 3:30 p.m. On Saturday and Sunday, guided tours of the Capitol are available on a limited basis between 1230 and 1600 with the last tour departing at 1530. Self-guided tours of the Capitol and Grounds are allowed daily. Visitors are welcome to pick up free self-guided Capitol and Grounds tour brochures at the Capitol north entry or Capitol Information and Guide Service 1S.2.
  • Admission: Capitol Tours, both guided and self-guided, are free. All tours depart from inside the South Foyer outside the tour guides office in the Capitol, approximately every 30-45 minutes and last for 30 minutes.

The Oldest Resident

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Florida is known for its large population of seniors. Not high schoolers mind you…

Senior citizens!

The sunny days and warm weather offer good health and vitality, so many opt to move to the golden state their during their “golden” years.

I would imagine that even with the most outstanding weather, most residents don’t make it past their 100th birthday, however, so if I told you that St. Augustine has a resident much older than that, you probably would not believe me, right?

Would you believe 600 years old?

In the parking lot of the Villa 1565 Hotel, stands St. Augustine’s oldest resident…the Old Senator. No government politician, this senator stands over 56 feet tall, has a girth of over 21 feet and could tell many stories about St. Augustine’s history and people.

While most people are aware of gigantic sequoias of California, some of the largest trees in the world, not all realize how large live oak trees can maturate…well, maybe us southerners do, as we have grown up with them towering over our yards. This one, however, is probably the most impressive I have even laid eyes on.

Crossing paths with this giant while returning from the Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park, I was awed by its enormous size. Its torso is enclosed by a small gate and a wooden frame has been constructed, allowing for pictures with the tree’s trunk. While it is impressive to stand near its base and think about how many arms’ lengths it would take to make it all the way around, I think that it is much more impressive to stand back, inside of the parking lot, and observe how far reaching this behemoth’s limbs stretch.

While it is within the confines of the Villa 1565 Hotel, you will only have to fight for observation rights with the occasional trolley from Old Town Trolley Tours making stop number 21.

Go pay your respects and listen closely when the wind causes its leaves to whisper. You just might learn something.

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The Old Senator

  • Address: Villa 1565 Hotel, 137 San Marco Avenue, St. Augustine, FL, 32084
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Not So Bad

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The Badlands.

One of the world’s richest geologic deposits lies east of Rapid City. Ancient animals once roamed the land and today a wide array of wildlife can be spotted throughout the area.

I will just put it out there…the Badlands wasn’t a national park that I had aspired to visit. Although I had heard of it, it wasn’t one that I was familiar with. But hearing others insist that I make the drive and spend the day there, was enough to make me take some time to research how best to see it in its entirety while in South Dakota.

It had snowed a bit the night before and I was shocked to see those speeding along the interstate, trying to maintain the 80 mph speed limit. Creeping along at a tortoise-like speed, I spotted quite a few vehicles being pulled from the ditches and I wondered if I was making this long drive on the wrong day.

After a quick stop to see the famous Wall Drug and pick up lunch, I headed to the entrance of the park, first making a pitstop at Prairie Homestead, the place to be if you want to learn about the pioneers and first homesteaders. Though it was closed for the season, it seemed like a great place to see one of the last remaining original sod homes intact today. Many pieces of farm equipment were on display, but the best part was the many little prairie dogs running around on the premises. These were quite different than the ones I saw near Devil’s Tower…they were white! After many photos and a walk around the premises, it was time to head toward the park’s gates.

Although it was quite cold out and there was a light dusting of snow on the ground, I learned another great reason for visiting during the off-season…no entrance fee! Though I later learned that entrance fees are collected year round, maybe this was the day that someone decided to call in sick and there was no one to man the booth. Nevertheless, it was my good fortune to not have to pay the thirty dollar entrance fee!

Driving along, I was filled with anticipation because I really had no knowledge of what I would experience. A little was gleaned from looking at a map of the park, but I was excited to see what it consisted of in person. Not long after my entrance, I encountered a parking lot at the Big Badlands Overlook area. Parking my car at the base of some high geologic formations, I exited my car and walked around, following a sign pointing in the direction of the Door Trail. I made my way onto the boardwalk marveling at the large, rocky spires rising up on each side of me. The end of the boardwalk offered spectacular views over the landscape and I noticed where you could venture off of the boardwalk and make your way onto the cracked earth, riddled with gulleys and small hoodoos. Reading the directions on the posted sign, I learned that it was recommended to bring water, even during the winter, and follow the yellow trail markers along the half mile hike. Although I was alone, I decided to follow in the footsteps of two other guys who had departed just before me. Sometimes it was a bit difficult to spy the next marker, but as I stood in this foreign landscape, I likened it to being on another planet. Making it to marker 5, I decided that I had reached my limit, especially when I spotted the Beware of Rattlesnakes sign!

Finding the path back to the boardwalk, I made my way towards my car, but not before crossing the road to check out the entrance to the Castle Trail, which leads to other parts of the park. Heading back onto the Badlands Loop Road, I marveled at the stunning views that I passed, pulling over at every overlook that I came across. For once, I was thankful that no one was with me to complain about the constant breaks in my progression through the park…I simply could not help myself! It reminded me of the last time I had driven through the Valley of Fire in Nevada when each new perspective outdid the last!

Just past the Ben Reifel Visitor Center, which was closed, I spotted the Cedar Lodge, also locked down for the season. At Cedar Pass, I parked in the adjacent lot, followed the path to the boardwalk and leisurely made my way along its duration, all the while admiring the mountains that towered over me.

Back on the road, I delighted in the lack of traffic and the beauty of the day. Bright blue, almost cloudless skies hovered above me and when I came across the parking area at Saddle Pass Trail, which leads to Castle Trail, I decided it was time to take another walk and see nature’s artistry up close.

Continuing on, I drove through Norbeck Pass which is the transition zone between the upper and lower prairie environments separated by the famed Badlands Wall. It was truly amazing to almost have the park to myself. I could only imagine the amount of traffic that usually courses through the park during its peak season between Memorial Day and Labor Day. At first, I would pull over to admire the overlooks, however, when I realized that no one was ever behind me, I basically stopped in the road to take one of the thousands of pictures that I took that day.

The Fossil Exhibit Trail was next on the itinerary and I followed the boardwalk, reading the signage interspersed along its length. I gradually learned about the multitude of fossils discovered here and the animals that once called this area home.

Across the road was the opposite end of the Castle Trail that I had investigated earlier. I took a short walk along its length to check out an unusual geologic formation that I spotted from the distance.

A quick stop was made at the White River Valley Overlook and taking a look at my map, I realized that if I wanted to make the drive throughout the entire park, I would have to step it up. Finally around Burns Basin Overlook, I spotted horns sticking up from the grassy area along the road. Further up the road, I spotted Big Horn sheep grazing along the rocky shoulder making me realize that I had never seen Bison.

Thankfully, I had cell service and did a quick search on the best places to see bison in the park. I was directed to the western side of the park near Roberts Prairie Dog Town. So, I hadn’t missed them after all!

The beautiful Yellow Mound Overlook with its multicolored geology caused me to pull over once again. Yellow, purple, gray and striped reddish hills make for one of the most spectacular and colorful views in the entire park. Could this be the inspiration for the line in the song “America the Beautiful”? O beautiful for spacious skies, For amber waves of grain, For purple mountain majesties, Above the fruited plain!

I scouted more overlooks…the Ancient Hunters Overlook, the Pinnacles Overlook… and then, just past the Hay Butte Overlook, I finally saw my first bison. A group was situated in the grassy area on my right, a couple of adults and a calf. Pulling my car over to the shoulder of Sage Creek Rim Road, I grabbed my camera and walked to the rear of my car. Dark, beady eyes watched me carefully, making sure that I was no threat to its child. I didn’t dare go any closer, but when one of the adults got to its feet and turned its head towards me, I knew it was my cue to leave. How on earth would I explain to my car rental company how a bison dented my car?

A little further up on the road, I spotted a dark figure on the edge of a precipice. How nice of them to place a bison statue on the edge of the cliff! Yet as I drove closer, I realized what I was seeing was not a statue but a real live bison, standing still, alone, watching over its domain. I shot it as best I could with my camera, but if I could have been closer or had a better telephoto lens, this would have been the money shot!

Continuing on, I found this lone creature’s herd. An extremely large group of bison spread across the road and in the fields on either side. While extremely moving to be in such close proximity, it was also a bit disconcerting. Again, I worried that they might become excited and stampede. Under their watchful gaze, I drove slowly through the group until I reach Prairie Dog Town.

Much like the Prairie Dog Town I had observed near Devil’s Tower, I watched fascinated as they ran to and fro, freezing now and then to judge my presence and then duck down into their burrow. These rodents, whose name dates back to the 1700s, derive their moniker from their warning call that sounds much like a dog’s bark. Indeed, I must have been perceived as a threat, as I heard their communications from quite some distance.

Finally, as the sun was dipping down lower, I decided that it was time to call it a day. Knowing that I didn’t want to encounter bison on the roads after dark, I headed for the Pinnacles Entrance and on to Wall, where I merged on to the interstate.

For having no prior knowledge of this spectacular national park, I was so thrilled that I learned about it from a nice hunter in the airport gatehouse. It was possible that I would have learned about it simply from scouring a map or reading one of the brochures in my hotel lobby, but it could have been possible that I might have deemed another close attraction, like Bear Land, more enticing. Thankfully, I have learned to accept advice from other travelers!

So how would I rate my experience? Travel to the Badlands on icy roads during the winter months, but having the park to myself? I’d say it wasn’t so bad!

I would do it again in a heartbeat!

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Prairie Homestead

Badlands National Park

  • https://www.nps.gov/badl/index.htm
  • Address: 25216 Ben Reifel Rd, Interior, SD 57750, United States
  • Hours: 24 hours, 7 days a week
  • Admission: Private vehicle, $30.00 (for 7 days), Individual (Hiking, Bicycling, etc…for 7 days), $15.00, Motorcycle, $25.00 (for 7 days), Commercial Sedan, 1 to 6 passenger capacity, $25.00, Commercial Van, 7 to 15 passenger capacity, $50.00, Commercial Minibus, 16 to 25 passenger capacity, $60.00, Commercial Motorcoach, 26 or more passenger capacity, $150.00. Badlands National Park Annual Pass, $50.00.

Close Encounters

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In the 1977 hit motion picture, Close Encounters of the Third Kind, a man’s encounter with a UFO leads him to a landmark mountain where the government is attempting to communicate with extraterrestrials.

I was only ten years old when the movie was released and remember sitting in the theater, half fascinated and half terrified; my youthful naivete leading me to somehow believe that what I was seeing really existed. Of course, we scanned the darkened skies during the evenings, watching for anomalies, but now, there was this weird shaped mountain somewhere, where extraterrestrials were hiding out, waiting to abduct innocent people like me!

The blockbuster movie captivated the masses and paved the way for similar movies and television shows and its innovative special effects initiated what was to come.

While enroute to Rapid City, South Dakota, I decided to engage other travelers in the gatehouse in the Minneapolis airport. Listening to their conversations, it was evident that they had traveled there many times and I was eager to know what attractions they suggested that I visit. Of course, topping the list was Mount Rushmore, the Crazy Horse Memorial and the Badlands, but one caught me off guard.

Do you remember the movie, Close Encounters of the Third Kind?” I was asked by a man going on a hunting trip. “The mountain tower that was featured in the movie is just across the border in Wyoming, only a couple hours away. It is worth the drive.”

There was no thinking about this. I knew that I was going to move heaven and hell to see this and more importantly photograph it for my mom, a huge fan of the movie.

Setting out early on my second day in South Dakota, it was cold but clear. Merging on to the interstate, I headed west, marveling at how little traffic I encountered, crossing into Wyoming. Turning from the highway at Sundance, I headed north, the anticipation building with each mile.

And there it was!

Pulling over to the side of the road, with it still quite some distance from my location, I snapped photo after photo so that I could send to my mom…the culmination of the hints I had been texting to her as to where I was going.

Earlier in the day, I was concerned about certain locations possibly being closed for Veteran’s Day. Entering the park, however, I learned that it was my good fortune to actually be visiting on this day as admission was complimentary, saving me the twenty-five dollar entry.

Winding my way uphill, I occasionally glimpsed the tower peeking out from behind the trees until I reached the parking area where it loomed over me. After parking my car and taking a quick bathroom break, I headed toward the trail entrance.

Color caught my eye and I began to notice bits of cloth attached to many of the trees along the trail. These are prayer cloths left by practitioners of Native American religions, who believe the tower to be sacred.

I was only there to moderately hike, but after passing a sign informing climbers to register, I assumed that climbers scale the tower’s soaring, smooth walls. I later learned, however, that climbers are asked by the National Park Service to not climb in June, during the summer solstice, a sacred time. Native Americans, however, ask that the tower not be climbed at any time.

I followed the Tower Trail, passing the boulder field on a paved 1.3 mile walk around the base of the Tower. It was a lovely day with bright blue skies as a backdrop for the monolith reaching up to it. The hike was relatively easy, with views of the nearby valleys and of course every part of the tower. Signage along the path informed about the tower’s geologic history, the surrounding lands and the people who live there, the fire ecology and the nature that dwells on the tower’s lands.

Of course, the landscape looked nothing like the movie’s. There definitely was not an area with a huge mothership blasting five tuba notes in communication with mankind! However, I was glad that I had decided to cut into my tight schedule to enjoy the great outdoors and take this excursion.

Once my hike was complete, I drove back down the mountain to the base of Joyner’s Ridge Trail where stunning views of the tower are abundant. Deciding not to take another hike as I had so much more to see on my return to South Dakota, I headed toward the front of the park. Here, I encountered Prairie Dog town. Everywhere, I looked, I could see small heads popping out of the ground and little bodies running back and forth. Such a fascinating place, I stayed for longer than I had planned watching these amazing animals.

Passing through the front gates, I made a pit stop at the gift shop. Asking for advice for a nearby lunch stop, the nice saleslady directed me to the town of Hulett. With one more glance at the Tower that had sometimes haunted my earlier years, I set off to see what other close encounters I could find in Wyoming and South Dakota.

Believe me, there are many!

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Devil’s Tower

  • https://www.nps.gov/deto/index.htm
  • Address: Devil’s Tower, Wyoming 59602, United States
  • Hours: Open 24 hours. Visitor Center is currently closed.
  • Admission: $25 per vehicle (1-7 day pass), $20 per motorcycle (1-7 pass), $15 Individual on foot or bicycle (1-7 day pass), $25, Commercial Tours (1-6 people), $40, Commercial Tours (7-25 people), $100, Commercial Tours (26 or more people). Fee free days, January 18, April 17, August 4, August 25, September 25 and November 11.

Heads Up

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The length of my bucket list sometimes keeps me up at night.

How will I ever complete everything?

Since many things will have to remain unchecked at least for now, due to Covid19, I am trying to enjoy some of the things that are close at hand. Maybe some things, by necessity, have suddenly appeared on my list, but some of them have always been there!

When I say close at hand, it is understandable that not being able to travel outside the country has forced us to take a closer look at the amazing places that are within our boundaries. Since I can’t go gorilla trekking in Uganda right now, I can certainly travel within the United States and mark off a few things, like Mount Rushmore.

Unbelievably, I don’t ever remember having been to South Dakota. Maybe I spent a short night while on one of my trips for work, but not enough time to see anything that this beautiful state has to offer.

Pondering my bucket list situation one night, I packed a bag and decided that I would leave for Mount Rushmore in the morning. It was now…or now (I didn’t want to say never)…and I really needed to get out of the house!

As luck would have it, it was a good travel day and I made all three of my flights, arriving in Rapid City around eleven. My rental car took me to my downtown hotel, where I dropped my bags and quickly freshened up. With sunset so early in the winter day, I knew that it was imperative to make the most of the daylight. Thankfully, Mount Rushmore is only a short drive from the downtown area and I made the trip in a quick twenty-five minutes.

As I navigated the winding road, aware that I was getting close, I looked up ahead at a passing truck and there it was! I had not been prepared to see this amazing landmark from the highway and I had to slow my speed and pull over to take a better look. It was mesmerizing!

While most people opt to visit Mount Rushmore during the warmer summer months, I realized as I pulled into a mostly empty parking garage that visiting during the winter has its advantages.

And disadvantages.

Improvements to the property certainly cannot be done during the busy times of the year, so as I made my way down the Avenue of the Flags, which display flags of all fifty states, the District of Columbia and the three territories, Guam, American Samoa and Virgin Islands, I had to maneuver around construction equipment, detours and closed off areas. As I arrived on the Grand View Terrace, I finally laid my eyes on the colossal sculpture, sans the massive crowds that flock here during the summer…another advantage of my November visit.

Looking down at the unoccupied amphitheater seating, it dawned on me how many people I could actually be sharing this space with. Yes, it was cold, but there was no one to my left and no one to my right…perfect for social distancing.

As luck would have it, the weather, which could be volatile at this time of year was cooperating. Although a few clouds dipped low, occasionally obscuring the upper portions of the the carvings, blue skies prevailed and we were all treated with beautiful views.

After feasting my eyes, I headed inside the Visitor’s Center to warm up and learn about the famous carvings’ history, much of which I did not know.

Mount Rushmore was the brainchild of Gutzon Borglum. With an idea of carving the four Presidents, Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt and Lincoln, from the waist up, construction began in 1927 and took fourteen years to complete. When funding ran out, only the heads were completed. The Presidents represent the nation’s birth, development, growth and preservation. There are many exhibits in the Visitor’s Center explaining their construction as well as a short film.

Although I saw the entrance to the Presidential Trail, which gives hikers a closer look, I was not quite sure of how much time it would entail. With my plans including continuing on to the Crazy Horse Memorial, a short drive away, I decided to skip this portion of the grounds.

Jumping back into my now freezing car, I cranked up the heat and headed out to Highway 244. Not long into my journey, I learned that I wasn’t quite done with my visit to Mount Rushmore. From the roadway, behind the park, there is a great view of the profile of George Washington’s 60 foot head, 20 foot nose and 18 foot wide mouth. Pull over to the side of the road or in the adjacent parking lot and keep an eye out for the many mountain goats that hang out in the area.

This was the icing on the cake!

Twenty four hours earlier, I had not planned to be here and now I was gazing up at the profile of our nation’s first president.

With my head held high, I gave myself a personal pat on the back for making this happen. I then placed a mental check on my bucket list while looking up at this important piece of our nation’s history.

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Mount Rushmore

  • https://www.nps.gov/moru/index.htm
  • Address: 13000 Highway 244, Building 31, Suite 1, Keystone, SD 57751
  • Hours: October 1 through March 13, 0500-2100, March 14 through September 30, 0500-2300.
  • Admission: free admission
  • Parking: Cars, Motorcycles and RVs, $10.00 per vehicle. Seniors (ages 62+), $5.00 per vehicle. Free for Active Duty Military.

Bubble, Bubble…Could Be Trouble!

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Volcanoes are quite intriguing, but often deadly.

Living in the proximity of one is not for me, but I have visited and climbed a few in my lifetime.

Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands have twenty-seven potentially active volcanoes…Cayambe, Reventador, Guagua Pichincha, Cotopaxi, Tungurahua, Sangay, Chacana to name a few. The Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve has three inside its boundaries, Yanahurco, Cotocachi and Cuicocha. Since we were nearby in Otavalo, we decided to make the hour-long trek to the Cuicocha Lagoon, a volcanic crater lake known for its spectacular beauty and scenic overlooks.

The reserve, only 87 miles from Quito, attracts visitors year round who are seeking a respite from the hustle and bustle of city life. Well-paved hiking trails lead the way around the lake and through the reserve where visitors might spy spider and howler monkeys, 600 species of bird, including Andean condors, Andean gulls, hummingbirds and toucans and a wide variety of plants and flowers. Though there are waterfalls and and a rain-forest, the main attraction is the lagoon, filled with brilliantly colored water and centered with two volcanic domes that rise from the surface of the lake.

As we made our way through the sometimes steep and dusty trail, we admired the beautiful lake and Cotacachi Volcano in the distance, luckily having a fairly clear day. There were a few stops along the way which highlighted an Offerings Site (a great scenic overlook) and both Lunar and Solar calendars. Although we were not there for a long strenuous day of hiking, it was nice to have something different to see along the trail.

There is a restaurant on the premises and a boat dock which offers boat rides in the lake. It would have been interesting to see the two mile lake and islands from up close as I hear the lake bubbles from the gasses emitted from the volcano. Although seemingly serene, those bubbles are there as a reminder that there is not always stability in a volcanic region!

In addition, because of our parking location and limited time within the park, we were unable to stop at the Visitor’s Center to sign the guest book and see the exhibits which showcase the park’s inhabitants and ecological system, something that would have given us some insight to the area before beginning our trek.

Statue at Visitor’s Center

Though our visit was short, it was worth the journey for the sheer beauty of the area. The local towns are simple and charming and it would be a wonderful adventure to stay for a while to enjoy the people and delectable cuisine.

In fact, many international travelers never leave and choose to retire here!

So, if you are looking for a day trip or even to stay for a lifetime…head out to Otavalo, Ibarra or Cotacachi. The views from your backyard will be the best you’ve ever seen!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe, and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve

  • http://cuicocha.org/
  • Hours: Sunrise to sunset
  • Admission: free
  • Boat Rides: $4 per person
  • Getting There: By car, from Quito, take Panamericana Norte to reach the ciry of Cotacachi. From here you continue for 12 kilometers until you reach the Cuicocha lagoon. By bus, from Quito to Cotacachi (closest town) costs approximately $2-3 and takes about 2 hours. You can then take a taxi from Cotacachi to the reserve for about $10, however it is recommended to make arrangements for a later pick-up.