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Many may remember Grimsvotn, the volcano that caused havoc in Iceland in 2011. Disrupting air travel, not only in Iceland, but throughout Europe for the better part of a week, due to the enormous amount of ash it spewed into the air, it suddenly went dormant a short time later.
After ten years, the problems it caused was still fresh in many people’s minds when Fagradalsfjall began rumbling. Located only twenty miles from the city center, it made world headlines and airlines wondered what havoc this new volcano might wreak within their airspace and beyond.
Realizing that I would be visiting Iceland, a friend and I decided that we would rent a car and hike the area to watch the birth of this new volcano. While waiting for our arrival covid tests, we struck up a conversation with our van driver. He asked if seeing Fagradalsfjall was in our plans…much like every visitor…but suggested that we call one of the other drivers to take us. It seems that two other groups that arrived before us had arranged for this driver, Kat, to drive them out to the site in a large multi-passenger van. Since we were not much into the idea of all of the hassles of renting a car, we decided to check with her also when we arrived at the hotel.
A quick call to both Kat and the person in charge of the other two groups, confirmed my friend’s and my seats, along with a couple of others from our own group. After a short nap and the receipts of our negative tests by text, we were gathered in the lobby ready for our adventure.
The drive was not extremely long but not quite as picturesque as I remembered other parts of Iceland. As we turned into the parking lot, I wondered what the hike would be like, spying the many visitors making their way up the inclined rocky path. The wind was kicking as we exited the van and we quickly posed for a group shot…since so many of us didn’t know the others, we though it prudent to have a record of who was making their way into this vast unknown.
No, not really!
We just thought we would do a “before” and “after” shot!
Soon into our journey, it became apparent who was going to lead the pack and who would be finishing last. I already mentioned the steep inclined path…did I mention the wind? Yes, and it was worse as we made our way up the hillside. It was evident that I could not keep up with those who were a good twenty years younger (or more), but there were a couple that were behind us. After feeling like the leaders were always having to wait for us, we told them to keep moving and we would make our way in our own time. We were all anxious to make our destination, but it wasn’t a race.
About forty-five minutes into our hike, we finally got our first glimpse of Fagradalsfjall behind its lava field. It was making a commotion in the distance, but the best shot was achieved by our captain who caught it from this distance at its angriest!
Continuing around a hill, we spied another lava field on our right. Attempts at keeping the lava contained were obvious, but I would guess that would be a losing battle in the end.
Finally, we came to a large peak. This would be the final push to the best viewing area nearest to the volcano. Now, if we thought the winds were bad before, that was nothing compared to what was happening on this climb. I grew up in Louisiana, so I am no stranger to the hurricanes and tropical storms that descend upon my home state during their season. These winds definitely mirrored those of a strong tropical storm or even the beginnings of a category 1 hurricane. The gusts were so strong at times that we could only take a few steps at a time and then have to stand firmly in place, often squatting to avoid being pushed off of our feet. It was slow going, but eventually, the five of us who brought up the rear, made it to join the others who had been enjoying the show.
The best part…they had brought beer!
Fagradalsfjall was putting on a great display of emotion. For some reason, I related to the volcano as a “she” and I thought that she was in a fury, only to be calmed to a semi-agitated state. Lava spewed violently from her cone every twenty minutes or so and then flowed like a river down into the valley below us. Smoke and steam filled the air, at times obscuring the view.
We enjoyed our beer and rested our feet and I could only imagine how much more resplendent she would be during the darkened hours of night. Other friends had made the hike a few days before ours, however, after realizing the difficulty I had during the day, I was glad that we had tackled it the way we had. Only one thing could be worse than our climb up here…the climb back down! Of course, I was correct in my assumptions as I watched people knocked off of their feet on the path.
But what comes up must eventually come down and that would be the five of us, once again, bringing up the rear. We helped each other as much as we could, giving physical assistance and words of encouragement and finally, we all made it down that rocky gradient, with the only casualty being my hat, which was blown away to Greenland.
I knew there were some tough parts ahead, but most of it was downhill this time around and we took our time, even stopping to touch the cooled lava rock and pose for pictures.
Tired and bedraggled, we dealt with the final stretch of the journey back to our van and “what the mountain taketh away, the mountain giveth”…I found a nice 66degree North hat to replace mine that was snatched so forcefully! Of course, I needed to wash it first!
You know that pictures we said we would take together when we all made it back? Yeah…that didn’t happen. There were those that were frozen from having the lack of adequate clothing, warming up on the bus and refusing to set foot outside.
Anyhow, we had come and we had conquered and seen Fagradalsfjall.
After a quick pitstop in town, for restrooms and more beer, we headed back around the rear of the volcano area. Kat had decided to take us to the Krysuvik Geothermal Springs. A steamy, bubbling place reminded us of our trips to the Blue Lagoon, however, these hot springs were not for bathing, nor did they smell all that great, unless you love the smell of rotten eggs. Still, we made our way on the wooden walkways to enjoy the beauty of Iceland one last time, relishing in the fact that it was now after nine o’clock and still not dark.
Many of my friends made their way to the natural wonder that is Fagradalsfjall after our journey, but many did not get to enjoy it as we did. I have heard that the lava flow obstructed that last peak which gave the closest and most fantastic views of the eruptions. Others still encountered weather worse than we did and had to turn back. While I thought it one of the toughest things I have ever physically attempted, I am so glad that we were able to do it when we did and with the people we did it with. Yes, we didn’t all stay together, but in the end, we all did it and saw Fagradalsfjall during its glory!
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Fagradalsfjall
- https://guidetoiceland.is/travel-iceland/drive/Fagradalsfjall
- Address: Geldingadalur, Grindavik, Iceland
- Hours: 24 hours, daily
- Admission: free
- Parking: free, Geldingadalur Volcano Parking Lots A and D on Highway 427.
- Getting There: https://goo.gl/maps/7whyFEjn1pbrQFD99
- Hiking Map: https://safetravel.is/eruption-in-reykjanes
- Gear Needed: Outdoor rain clothing, layers, trekking poles, backpack (with water, snacks, lunch, etc.), and possibly crampons depending on weather conditions.
Leaving the gardens, we made our way on to the main trail, winding our way steadily up the mountainside, crossing a few fixed bridges along the way. A short time later, we found our way to the first hanging bridge. A bit of a back log had us waiting a while to pass over…workers monitor the bridge and allow a limited number to cross the bridge at one time. Unfortunately, there are those who are not as considerate of other’s time and paused one to many times to take selfies and pictures of the surrounding area.
Finally, we made our way as steadily as possible across the shaky span, marveling at the clouds swirling around the treetops. From the bridges and the higher parts of the trails, epiphyte plants, birds, mammals and butterflies can be observed up close. Some of the high altitude birds include the bell bird and the Emerald Toucanette, while at lower elevations, toucans and turkey hens can be spied along with migratory birds of prey during the months from November to February. High altitude trees include Yema Huevo, Cirri and Pilon trees and in the lower regions, Caobilla, Fruta Dorada and Maquenque trees. Keep an eye out for frogs, snakes, lizards and mammels such as kinkajous, raccoons, margays, ocelots, pumas, jaguars and tapirs.
The trail spans almost two miles and can be covered in about two hours. Six more hanging bridges are spaced out on the trail, along with a waterfall and viewing area and a tunnel. Each of the bridges vary in length and believe it or not, after the first bridge, the crowds thin. Maybe visitors decide that one is enough. Maybe they think they are too shaky or they run out of time, but at the end of the trail, the last few bridges have no one on them, allowing ample time to enjoy the views from the center of the bridge.
