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Many may remember Grimsvotn, the volcano that caused havoc in Iceland in 2011. Disrupting air travel, not only in Iceland, but throughout Europe for the better part of a week, due to the enormous amount of ash it spewed into the air, it suddenly went dormant a short time later.
After ten years, the problems it caused was still fresh in many people’s minds when Fagradalsfjall began rumbling. Located only twenty miles from the city center, it made world headlines and airlines wondered what havoc this new volcano might wreak within their airspace and beyond.
Realizing that I would be visiting Iceland, a friend and I decided that we would rent a car and hike the area to watch the birth of this new volcano. While waiting for our arrival covid tests, we struck up a conversation with our van driver. He asked if seeing Fagradalsfjall was in our plans…much like every visitor…but suggested that we call one of the other drivers to take us. It seems that two other groups that arrived before us had arranged for this driver, Kat, to drive them out to the site in a large multi-passenger van. Since we were not much into the idea of all of the hassles of renting a car, we decided to check with her also when we arrived at the hotel.
A quick call to both Kat and the person in charge of the other two groups, confirmed my friend’s and my seats, along with a couple of others from our own group. After a short nap and the receipts of our negative tests by text, we were gathered in the lobby ready for our adventure.
The drive was not extremely long but not quite as picturesque as I remembered other parts of Iceland. As we turned into the parking lot, I wondered what the hike would be like, spying the many visitors making their way up the inclined rocky path. The wind was kicking as we exited the van and we quickly posed for a group shot…since so many of us didn’t know the others, we though it prudent to have a record of who was making their way into this vast unknown.
No, not really!
We just thought we would do a “before” and “after” shot!
Soon into our journey, it became apparent who was going to lead the pack and who would be finishing last. I already mentioned the steep inclined path…did I mention the wind? Yes, and it was worse as we made our way up the hillside. It was evident that I could not keep up with those who were a good twenty years younger (or more), but there were a couple that were behind us. After feeling like the leaders were always having to wait for us, we told them to keep moving and we would make our way in our own time. We were all anxious to make our destination, but it wasn’t a race.
About forty-five minutes into our hike, we finally got our first glimpse of Fagradalsfjall behind its lava field. It was making a commotion in the distance, but the best shot was achieved by our captain who caught it from this distance at its angriest!
Continuing around a hill, we spied another lava field on our right. Attempts at keeping the lava contained were obvious, but I would guess that would be a losing battle in the end.
Finally, we came to a large peak. This would be the final push to the best viewing area nearest to the volcano. Now, if we thought the winds were bad before, that was nothing compared to what was happening on this climb. I grew up in Louisiana, so I am no stranger to the hurricanes and tropical storms that descend upon my home state during their season. These winds definitely mirrored those of a strong tropical storm or even the beginnings of a category 1 hurricane. The gusts were so strong at times that we could only take a few steps at a time and then have to stand firmly in place, often squatting to avoid being pushed off of our feet. It was slow going, but eventually, the five of us who brought up the rear, made it to join the others who had been enjoying the show.
The best part…they had brought beer!
Fagradalsfjall was putting on a great display of emotion. For some reason, I related to the volcano as a “she” and I thought that she was in a fury, only to be calmed to a semi-agitated state. Lava spewed violently from her cone every twenty minutes or so and then flowed like a river down into the valley below us. Smoke and steam filled the air, at times obscuring the view.
We enjoyed our beer and rested our feet and I could only imagine how much more resplendent she would be during the darkened hours of night. Other friends had made the hike a few days before ours, however, after realizing the difficulty I had during the day, I was glad that we had tackled it the way we had. Only one thing could be worse than our climb up here…the climb back down! Of course, I was correct in my assumptions as I watched people knocked off of their feet on the path.
But what comes up must eventually come down and that would be the five of us, once again, bringing up the rear. We helped each other as much as we could, giving physical assistance and words of encouragement and finally, we all made it down that rocky gradient, with the only casualty being my hat, which was blown away to Greenland.
I knew there were some tough parts ahead, but most of it was downhill this time around and we took our time, even stopping to touch the cooled lava rock and pose for pictures.
Tired and bedraggled, we dealt with the final stretch of the journey back to our van and “what the mountain taketh away, the mountain giveth”…I found a nice 66degree North hat to replace mine that was snatched so forcefully! Of course, I needed to wash it first!
You know that pictures we said we would take together when we all made it back? Yeah…that didn’t happen. There were those that were frozen from having the lack of adequate clothing, warming up on the bus and refusing to set foot outside.
Anyhow, we had come and we had conquered and seen Fagradalsfjall.
After a quick pitstop in town, for restrooms and more beer, we headed back around the rear of the volcano area. Kat had decided to take us to the Krysuvik Geothermal Springs. A steamy, bubbling place reminded us of our trips to the Blue Lagoon, however, these hot springs were not for bathing, nor did they smell all that great, unless you love the smell of rotten eggs. Still, we made our way on the wooden walkways to enjoy the beauty of Iceland one last time, relishing in the fact that it was now after nine o’clock and still not dark.
Many of my friends made their way to the natural wonder that is Fagradalsfjall after our journey, but many did not get to enjoy it as we did. I have heard that the lava flow obstructed that last peak which gave the closest and most fantastic views of the eruptions. Others still encountered weather worse than we did and had to turn back. While I thought it one of the toughest things I have ever physically attempted, I am so glad that we were able to do it when we did and with the people we did it with. Yes, we didn’t all stay together, but in the end, we all did it and saw Fagradalsfjall during its glory!
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Fagradalsfjall
- https://guidetoiceland.is/travel-iceland/drive/Fagradalsfjall
- Address: Geldingadalur, Grindavik, Iceland
- Hours: 24 hours, daily
- Admission: free
- Parking: free, Geldingadalur Volcano Parking Lots A and D on Highway 427.
- Getting There: https://goo.gl/maps/7whyFEjn1pbrQFD99
- Hiking Map: https://safetravel.is/eruption-in-reykjanes
- Gear Needed: Outdoor rain clothing, layers, trekking poles, backpack (with water, snacks, lunch, etc.), and possibly crampons depending on weather conditions.
I love walking through Reykjavik. Everywhere you look, there is something interesting to see…from the harbor and the fishing boats…to the sculpture scattered throughout the town center…to the brightly painted tin buildings…to the interesting graffiti.
A visitor’s center is located on the premises which gives an interpretation of the history and nature of the national park. If you are near the campground, there is also an information center which will provide further information.
The smaller of the two, Strokkur, is more reliable in providing a show. Strokkur erupts about every 10 to 15 minutes, 24 hours a day. There are other, smaller geysers throughout the area as well as mineral springs and mud pots worth the walk around the premises. Since Geysir was quiet during my visit, my attention, however, was always drawn back to Strokkur, with its timely blasts.
Soon on our way, after an early departure, rain threatened our journey on and off until we arrived at our first stop, Skogafoss Waterfall. Though there wasn’t sufficient time to climb the long winding stairway to admire the largest waterfall in the country from the top (82 feet and a 200 foot drop), I was able to photograph the cascading waters very near its base, only getting slightly wet from the massive amounts of spray that the waterfall produces. As the rain temporarily cleared and the sun peeked out around the clouds, a beautiful rainbow was visible near the base of the waterfall.
Signs line the pathway to the beach warning of danger from the rogue waves that roll in with full force from the Atlantic, but when you arrive at the beach, there is no shortage of people daring the tide…laying on the beach, trying to get their best photgraphic shots of the rolling waves and getting as close to these monsters as possible. Spying a few soaked tourists, I stayed as far away as possible.
The adjacent, small village of Vík í Mýrdal, with 450 inhabitants, lies directly under the Myrdalsjokull glacier, which sits atop the volcano Katla. Speculation is that since there has not been an eruption since 1918, another may be brewing causing glacier melt and flash flooding which could decimate the village. Regular drills are held in the village directing residents to the local church which sits atop a hill hopefully protecting it from the floodwaters. If you are driving the ring road around the island, it is important to keep this village in mind as it is the only service center between Skógar and the west edge of the Mýrdalssandur glacial outwash.
Leaving Vík í Mýrdal, we were finally on our way to Sólheimajökull glacier, driving past beautiful countryside views. Donning my ski pants, hat and gloves while enroute, I readied myself for what we would encounter.
Soon, we were making our way up the trail, heading toward the glacier. Carrying our crampons on our axes, we walked along the edge of the glacial lake to our staging area. A beautiful rainbow stretched like a bridge across the lake and we could not wait to make the climb up to the glacier. After a quick lesson in strapping on our crampons, we were ready.
