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Rainforests? Volcanoes? Beaches?
If a vast array of nature’s offerings is what you are searching for in a vacation, then head down to Costa Rica, the rugged, rainforested country nestled between the Caribbean and Pacific. With a quarter of the area comprising protected jungle teeming with wildlife, many outdoor adventures await.
When my son and I departed from Richmond, early in the morning, we honestly did not know where we were going to end up that night. Our suitcases were packed with a wide array of clothing options which would cover us from Alaska’s frigid temperatures to the Caribbean’s torridity. Hoping to be able to escape winter’s wrath, we decided to try for the first flight with remaining space…San Jose, Costa Rica. Though the flight was booked on the heavy side, we managed to secure two seats and were soon on our way. Four hours later, our passports were being stamped and we were shuttled to our hotel for the night.
The plan was to pick up our car the next day and set out to see what we could find. With suggestions from my flight attendant friends, we booked a room for the next night in Heredia and decided to visit the La Paz Waterfall Park.
Although we had a bit of a late start, we knew that our destination was only about an hour away and we would still have the entire afternoon to explore…or so we thought. Traffic on the two lane highways was heavy as many tourists and locals made their way into the mountainous countryside. We followed the other cars, passing coffee plantations, small restaurants and souvenir stands. As traffic came to a standstill near the turn which would take us to the park, it was evident that the many locals we noticed in the lines of cars were not going to the same place as we were.
Inching our way up Highway 126, it soon became evident why our drive had tripled in time…a festival. Cars were parked along the highway for miles and those departing walked with their children in strollers, carrying balloons, cotton candy and stuffed animals. Eventually, we creeped past the carnival location, gaining speed and arriving at our destination with enough time, we were told, to see everything the park had to offer.
La Paz Waterfall Gardens is an eco park with five waterfalls, a cloud forest, a rain forest, hiking trails, an aviary with numerous species of birds, toucan feeding demonstrations, a butterfly observatory, monkeys, a hummingbird garden and snake, frog, jungle cat, insect, orchid and heliconia exhibits.
As we ventured into the well-manicured, but jungle-like landscape, we first encountered the aviary which contains some of the most exciting and colorful birds of Costa Rica. The birds that reside here have been illegally captured by hunters and confiscated by the government or donated by their owners. Unfortunately, they all lack the basic skills to survive in the wild on their own, but are well cared for by the staff of the park. Inside the aviary, we entered the toucan enclosure where we were assisted with feeding the toucans by holding food in our mouths. Once we moved our hands and exposed the food, the friendly birds took the food straight from our lips!
One of the knowledgeable guides continued to walk with my son and I through the aviary, pointing our different species, including macaws, tanagers, parrots and finches. Leading us to a caged enclosure, we discovered two sloths hanging from their wooden perches. This amazing guide not only took my camera into the enclosure to take some pictures for me, he then invited us into the cage after a group of onlookers had departed. What a treat! We were able to stand just below the sloths for great photo opportunities…one even reached down in an attempt to comb my hair with his long claws!
Thanking the guide, we continued on into the insect exhibit and the butterfly observatory where many of the 25 species of butterfly continually landed on our arms, heads and even my face. My favorite part of the observatory was the laboratory area where we could observe the butterflies emerging from their chrysalis or in larva stages of their growth.
Exiting the observatory, we walked through Monkey Pass inspecting the spider and white-faced monkeys climbing and swinging through their exhibit. These monkeys had once been illegally held and were confiscated by the Costa Rican Ministry of Wildlife. Despite being abused and some near death, they have been successfully rehabilitated and have formed family units after being donated to the park.
Walking through the hummingbird garden, we then watched the diminutive feathered creatures flitting around amongst the trees and bushes while making our way to the serpentarium which showcases 30 of the most beautiful, yet deadly snakes of Costa Rica. Here, we were able to view, up close and personal, boa constrictors, bushmasters, vipers and even the colorful yet venomous sea snake found off the Pacific Coast of the country.
The next exhibit displayed most of the six species of endangered Central American cats, including jaguars, pumas and ocelots which were placed in the care of the park after the Costa Rican Ministry of the Environment lost funding and the animals were unable to be released into the wild. These animals reside in glass enclosures and can be viewed at close range. Though beautiful to see at such a close distance, both my son and I were dismayed to see the jaguars pacing the cage continually…very sad to be in such close range to an area where they should be able to live free.
After departing the cat enclosures, we made our way to the orchid and frog exhibits. The orchids were quite beautiful, but the frogs definitely stole the show. In the humid ranarium, there are many species of native frogs that are allowed to roam (or hop) freely. Here, you can find the Blue Jeans Poison Dart Frog, Caribbean Striped Poison Dart Frog, the Bullfrog and everyone’s favorite, the Red-Eyed Leaf Frog which looks very different while at rest. When sleeping, the frog looks like a fat, green lump. When awake, it is one of the most intriguing amphibians with its bright red, bulging eyes and red palms and soles.
Before moving on, make sure to visit Casita de la Paz, a farmhouse reproduction built using tools available to the average farmer a century ago. See how water was collected and heated within the home, how the farmer would have lived within the home and two oxcarts, colorful vehicles used to transport coffee beans from Costa Rica’s central valley over the mountains to the Pacific coast. Keep an eye out for the friendly mapaches, Costa Rica’s raccoon, that run around, and sometimes through, the cabin.
Finally, we were ready to hit the trails and make our way to the five waterfalls located in the park. Well constructed viewing platforms allow for amazing photo opportunities and a cooling, mist shower whether you need it or not! The Trail of Falls allows visitors to see five different cascades via trails and metal staircases following the Rio La Paz as it flows almost 5,000 feet down the slopes of the Poas Volcano. The first waterfall, El Templo, plunges 104 feet into a pool of clear water surrounded by lush tropical vegetation. Magia Blanca (White Magic), the tallest of the five, descends 131 feet and you can observe it from above and below the drop-off. Continuing downriver, you can gaze upon Escantada (65 feet) and the much smaller, Escondido Falls. The final deluge can be seen from the park, however, to get the full effect, it is best viewed from the end of the trail, walking along the highway (or drive the short distance upon departure from the park). After all that climbing, if you are not up to returning the way you came (and my shaky legs were not), you can descend 400 steps to the gift shop and bus stop where a free shuttle bus is provided by the Gardens that takes you back to the reception area.
Usually, I am not a fan of attraction gift shops, but take some time to take a look at the Boruca masks sold here. They are quite beautiful, made of balsa and feature three dimensional carvings of animals and other creatures indigenous to Costa Rica. The ones offered in La Paz’s gift shop were not cheap, but some of the best quality that I found in Costa Rica. I am sure there are many other places that sell this quality, however, I decided to wait and the ones I found in La Fortuna were not up to the standards that these were.
It was the end of our day, the park was closing and the weather was deteriorating rapidly, so sadly, we had to leave. We truly enjoyed the park and wished that we had been able to secure reservations at the Peace Lodge located on the premises. However, traveling the winding roads, we made our way back part of the way we had traveled a few hours earlier and to Villas Callas, our home for the night.
These cabañas are located a short drive from the waterfall gardens and are very reasonably priced. Opting for a two-story unit, with the bedroom upstairs, we found it to be modest, but comfortable, and set in a well-landscaped expanse. Each unit contains a fully equipped kitchen, bathroom, fireplace (great for cool evenings) and bedroom. Make sure to stop by the small food stand at the entrance to the property for some amazing empañadas and take advantage of their complimentary breakfast at the property’s restaurant.
This part of Costa Rica is very beautiful and offers mountainous views, rolling hillsides and a major tourist attraction, Poas Volcano. Though still closed since its eruption last year, the government is hoping for a re-opening (with some implemented restrictions) later this year.
So with a full day under our belt, we shut our eyes, readying ourselves for the long drive through the mountains to La Fortuna. Dreaming of the long trek, I wondered what we would find!
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La Paz Waterfall Gardens
- http://www.waterfallgardens.com/index.php
- Address: La Paz Waterfall Gardens & The Peace Lodge, Vara Blanca, Alajuela, Costa Rica
- Hours: 0800-1700, daily
- Admission: Adults, $44, Children, 3-12 years, $28, Under 3, free
- Getting There: Located 6 km, north, from Vara Blanca gas station
Villas Callas
- http://www.villacalas.com/
- Address: Poas Volcano National Park 456-4005 Poas Volcano National Park 456-4005
- Rates: About $55-$90 per night, depending on size of cabana
Soon on our way, after an early departure, rain threatened our journey on and off until we arrived at our first stop, Skogafoss Waterfall. Though there wasn’t sufficient time to climb the long winding stairway to admire the largest waterfall in the country from the top (82 feet and a 200 foot drop), I was able to photograph the cascading waters very near its base, only getting slightly wet from the massive amounts of spray that the waterfall produces. As the rain temporarily cleared and the sun peeked out around the clouds, a beautiful rainbow was visible near the base of the waterfall.
Signs line the pathway to the beach warning of danger from the rogue waves that roll in with full force from the Atlantic, but when you arrive at the beach, there is no shortage of people daring the tide…laying on the beach, trying to get their best photgraphic shots of the rolling waves and getting as close to these monsters as possible. Spying a few soaked tourists, I stayed as far away as possible.
The adjacent, small village of Vík í Mýrdal, with 450 inhabitants, lies directly under the Myrdalsjokull glacier, which sits atop the volcano Katla. Speculation is that since there has not been an eruption since 1918, another may be brewing causing glacier melt and flash flooding which could decimate the village. Regular drills are held in the village directing residents to the local church which sits atop a hill hopefully protecting it from the floodwaters. If you are driving the ring road around the island, it is important to keep this village in mind as it is the only service center between Skógar and the west edge of the Mýrdalssandur glacial outwash.
Leaving Vík í Mýrdal, we were finally on our way to Sólheimajökull glacier, driving past beautiful countryside views. Donning my ski pants, hat and gloves while enroute, I readied myself for what we would encounter.
Soon, we were making our way up the trail, heading toward the glacier. Carrying our crampons on our axes, we walked along the edge of the glacial lake to our staging area. A beautiful rainbow stretched like a bridge across the lake and we could not wait to make the climb up to the glacier. After a quick lesson in strapping on our crampons, we were ready.
