Dakar – Snapping The Globe

The Lions Next Door

Having been on safari in Tanzania, I knew that the Bandia Reserve in Senegal, had its shortcomings.

While I absolutely loved visiting and had done so three times, there was the glaring fact that it was missing some of the animals that captivate thrill seekers…the big cats. Because it is a private reserve comprising just over 8600 acres and is surrounded by fencing, the animals that do reside there…giraffes, deer, ostrich…would be sitting ducks. There are a few hyenas that reside in the front of the park, however, they are in their own enclosure and not free to roam.

On my last visit to Bandia Reserve, I did learn something…Ranch de Bandia, a lodge which offers lion experiences, had opened recently adjacent to the reserve. Offering up close interactions with lions, it was meant to fill the gap where The Bandia Reserve was lacking while still offering a Safari experience with big cats and a place for visitors to call home while surrounded by African wildlife.

Located only 70 kilometers from Dakar (45 minutes), it is an easy drive from the city and also located near the resort town of Saly, a popular tourist destination. Since we were staying near the downtown area, we decided to do both activities (Bandia Reserve and Ranch de Bandia) in order to make the most of our time and the drive.

Arriving in the late morning to Bandia, we quickly realized that early arrivals and late afternoons are probably best for animal spotting. The midday hour is when most animals are inactive due to the heat and it was on this trip when I saw the least amount of wildlife. We still managed to see enough to make our trip worthwhile, however, the park’s rhinos remained elusive on this trip.

*Hyenas in their enclosure at the front of the park*

*Many kinds of deer and elk reside in the park*

After our safari at Bandia was complete, we headed back thru the entrance gates and over to Ranch de Bandia, across the highway.

Preparations had already been made by our tour guide, Mass Kane, so we were all set to take off on our 30 minutes of exploration into the lions’ territory.

Loading up into the park’s specially equipped vehicles, we noticed pieces of meat still sitting on top of the truck’s iron mesh that enclosed it. Flies were everywhere, attracted by the smell and the bloody mess, but if this was the way to attract the lions, we had to get used to it.

Entering the gates of the enclosure, we could hear the roars of an angry cat in the distance; Malik, a territorial lion protesting our arrival. Moving through the second set of gates, the sound of his roars became much louder and as we turned onto a small roadway, we spotted him behind a bush in a clearing. Realizing that he would soon partake of a meal, he came forward, jumping onto the hood of our vehicle and then climbing onto the roof. It was an amazing experience to have such ferocious, yet beautiful creature that close to us. As he shifted closer to the back of the truck above where I was seated, I could smell his musky scent and feel the mud from his paws falling down into my hair. All in the experience, right? I was definitely going to need a shower when I got home!

Moving back to the front of the truck, he interacted with the driver and guide who, through an opening in the front mesh, doled out his afternoon snack. Finally, growing tired of us, he jumped off and headed back into the trees, seeking shelter from the afternoon’s heat.

Starting up our truck, we drove through and then exited the enclosure into another area. A small bit of travel ensued before we finally spotted the first of two female lions. One, named Savannah, stood under a tree watching us warily before approaching, yet still maintaining a bit of distance. We drove along the road with her staying nearby until we came across her mate, Madibah, a proud male. Promptly, Madibah jumped into the hood and waited for his treat, while Savannah waited patiently nearby. After he was satisfied, he climbed onto our roof and Savannah took her turn, giving us some great photo opportunities with the assistance of our guide.

While I don’t recommend it, we did get some pretty decent shots of Madibah by holding our phone’s camera through an opening at the top of the vehicle. After trying it once, (seeing another friend successfully photograph Madibah this way), I was roared at, causing me to quickly pull my phone inside. On a trip a week later, another friend had Madibah grab her phone from her, biting it and hurling it from the vehicle onto the muddy road.

I wonder if Apple Care covers that!

Our thirty minute adventure soon came to a close and we headed back to where we had started.

What I did learn later, however, is that in addition to the adult lion encounter, Ranch de Bandia also offers a baby lion encounter. This was not an option offered to us nor to any of my friends who visited near that time, leaving me to wonder if it is something that has been added recently or if there were no baby lions at that time.

A visit to both parks is something special for visitors to Senegal. An opportunity to see many animals in a protected reserve is unique to the area and should not be missed! And if you travel with my friend and tour guide, a great dinner on the beach in nearby Saly can wrap up your day’s adventures!!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Ranch de Bandia

Lion cub activity, 1000-1530, daily, 15 minutes. 25,000CFA per person. 18 years and over only. Mandatory dress required: trousers and closed shoes.
Lion Safari, 0900-1630, daily, 30 minutes. Children ages, 3-10 years, 10,000CFA per person. Adults, 20,000CFA per person.
Compulsory vehicle rental for the safari, 20,000 CFA for a maximum capacity of 7 people.

The Motherland Experience

http://themotherlandexperiencetraveltours.com
Telephone: +221 77 295 24 24
Owner: Mass Kane
Email: Kanemass@hotmail.com

Baobabs, Bats, Birds and Boats

Three whole days in Senegal!

That much time in Senegal nowadays is a rarity for me and I was excited for the possibilities it held. Until…we found out that my company had changed our hotel at the last minute due to a problem with our regular one. The one we were being moved to was in the middle of nowhere! Nothing to do but hang at the overly crowded pool and stare out of my dusty window at the highway.

Thank goodness, I have a good friend who operates his own tour company, The Motherland Experience! After contacting Mass Kane, my friend Amy and I quizzed him for some different tour ideas since we both have done quite a lot within the country.

We perused a few different options that he presented and finally decided on the Saloum Delta. Located on the southwestern coast of Senegal, this is the area where the Saloum river meets the Atlantic Ocean. What interested us most was that we were told that if we made it there on time, we might be able to participate in the drum mass at the Catholic church. Now that was something I was wanting to see…and hear!

Leaving early in the morning, we began the long drive, past the resort town of Saly toward Fatick. In Mbour, we stopped quickly so that we could get a glimpse of the Grand Mosquee de Gandigal-Est. Though we could not get closer than the front gates, past the tall palms that line the front walkway we could see that it was a stunning piece of architecture with its twin minarets reaching skyward. A little further, we drove down a narrow dirt road to check out the Catholic Church’s steeple towering over the trees. Attracting a great deal of attention, a group of young girls came over to say hello. Wanting to practice their English, they giggled and asked me my name and insisted we all take a picture together!

*Catholic Church and local school girls*

Continuing on our way, we reached Fatick, where witnessing large crowds walking through the muddy streets and congregating in a large field, we learned that the community was hosting a festival. While I am sure that it would have been interesting to take part, we had a destination in mind, so after stopping to watch a few minutes of a wrestling match in the field, we headed out.

A short time later, we pulled over again.

Now, there are baobab trees everywhere in western Africa and I have seen some gigantic ones during my times there, but the tree located here? It was one of the largest baobab trees I had ever seen. Mass wanted us to see this magnificent beauty so we all jumped out and began to take pictures. On one side of the tree, we noticed a hole…the entrance to the inside of the tree! Many of the baobab trees are hollow and as they are considered sacred, they are often used for burials of the village elders, but we were invited to climb inside as it was empty. Well, I am not one to pass up a challenge, so I readied myself, hike up a leg and attempted to follow the directions of the Senegalese men offering to help me inside. It is was not the most elegant of entrances and I actually got stuck for a moment, but finally after wiggling a bit, I made it in!

Very dark and damp, it seemed more like a cave and realizing that I was feeling drops of what felt like water, I looked up. Well, what do you normally find in caves? Bats! Hundreds of bats were circling above me and were attached to the inside of the tree. And that water? Well, you know…not water.

Getting out of there as fast as I could, I prayed that I didn’t contract any airborne illnesses from the bats and headed over to the nearby stalls to check out some of the local crafts for sale.

Finally, we were on our way once again and after a few short miles, we arrived at the Somone Lagoon. Herding us down to the boats, Mass greeted the boatman and we were on our way through the Saloum Delta.

The delta is the perfect place to see a variety of wildlife and birds among the mangrove trees. We glided through the calm waters admiring nearby houses and wharfs. As the boat eventually slowed, we pulled up to a small beach onto Morloth Island. On the shore was a small hotel with woven hammocks swinging in the breeze under a grass hut. This looked like a place I could hang out for a couple of days!

Quickly guided to the rear of the structure, we were loaded onto a horse-drawn cart with a few other visitors. Heading out, we bumped along the dirt road until we reached a small, quaint village.

The narrow road, lined by high walls, protected the cinderblock structures behind them and after a short ride, we were pulling into the main part of the village. A white, weathered gazebo stood in the center, obviously the place for village gatherings and we spotted a minaret towering above the village mosque. Children walked together in groups and many local artisans attempted to attract our attention to sell us their wares. A little ways up the road, we were shown the marriage trees. These trees had grown adjacent to each other and intertwined. With their tall roots extending from their bases, it was a great spot for photos.

A short walk led us to the Catholic church, Missionaire Du Sacre Coeur. This is the scene of the famous drum mass that we had heard of, but sadly, we learned that we were too late. The Sunday services were complete and with it the sounds of the local instruments. Disappointed, we stepped through the doors of the church, admired the stark simplicity of the interior with its pointed arches, heavy wooden pews and small stained glass windows which encircled the worship space. Designed for a smaller congregation, it was intimate and even more of a disappointment that we did not get to participate in the Sunday services.

Setting out to make the return trip, we first stopped at a large, covered pavilion; the craft market. Unlike any craft market I had ever experienced, these ladies were intent on each vendor getting a crack at selling their wares. While, I like to peruse all commodities in a normal market for the best selection, we were each greeted by a village woman and ushered over to a chair. The woman then proceeded to show me what she had. Only. I wasn’t allowed to look at what was being offered to anyone beside me or anywhere else in the pavilion. Since I have been to Africa so often and have so many mementos, it would take something extremely unique to have me open my wallet…and on this day, I saw nothing of the sort. Leaving with my merchant a bit unhappy, I decided to concentrate on the the musicians who filled the afternoon with song. Though we didn’t get to partake in the drum mass, here we listened to the beats of the local soul and watched one woman bust out her moves! She definitely had the rhythm!

Hopping back onto our cart, we were driven back to our starting point so that we could take our boat back across the delta. Here, we would have a delicious lunch to ready us for the long drive back to Dakar.

Although a long day, the trip to the Saloum delta was filled with the colorful sights and sounds of western Africa, along the way and at our destination. Definitely an experience I won’t ever forget!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

The Motherland Experience

http://themotherlandexperiencetraveltours.com
Telephone: +221 77 295 24 24
Owner: Mass Kane
Email: Kanemass@hotmail.com

The Slave Island

Over the course of more than a decade, I have spent considerable time in Dakar, Senegal. A vibrant city with much history and friendly people, there is no shortage of places to visit and things to do.

One of the most sought-after destinations for most visitors is Goree Island and that was the first place on my agenda when I arrived more than 11 years ago.

A short walk from our hotel was the ferry port and a twenty-five minute choppy boat ride had us approaching a colorful island nestled in the Atlantic waters off of the coast of Senegal. It was quite the adventure! Over the years, I made many trips to Ile de Goree, but some time had passed since my last. Walks around the island always revealed the Portuguese, Dutch, English and French influences. I always found photographic opportunities at every turn and I had been toying with the idea of a return.

As I overheard two of my co-workers, on their first trip to Senegal, questioning whether or not to venture out to the island on their own, I decided that maybe it was time to reacquaint myself with the beautiful island and I offered to take them there.

Noting the ferry schedule, we decided to leave our hotel (now much farther from the city center) about an hour prior to our selected ferry. Little did I realize how much more congested the city’s streets and roadways had become. Sitting in bumper-to-bumper traffic, we inched forward along the coast, ultimately realizing that we would not make it in time. Our two taxis finally arrived at the port only to discover that COVID and security restrictions had personnel limiting those who could enter and demanding identification. While I had my driver’s license with me, I discovered that two others had not brought any identification…at all. This certainly put a kink in our plans!

A gentleman, who had been hovering nearby, suddenly stepped in and introduced himself as a tour guide. He went on the explain that those wishing to visit Goree with a tour guide leading the way, could enter without identification.

Smelling a rat, I questioned him further, wanting to know the cost of his services.

“You pay me at the end of the tour what you think I am worth.”

Although he had the official tour guide badge, I have been in this situation before and it never ends well. But what other option did we have at this point? Jump into two more taxis and go back the way we had come, enduring more than another hour’s worth of traffic?

Reluctantly, I made an agreement with him. We paid him the cost of the ferry tickets and the cost of the admittance to the island along with the tour guide tax (paid to the island) and took a few seats in the nearby restaurant to wait out the time until the next ferry departure.

At two-thirty on the dot, our boat pulled away from the dock and we enjoyed the salty breeze on our journey, punctuated with pleasant conversations with some of the local women. Though these conversations seemed innocent enough, it wasn’t until we arrived that I remembered their purpose.

“Enjoy your visit. My name is Fatou. I have a stand in the market. Come see me and buy something.”

Making our way with our guide along the dock and to the crescent beach area, we waited patiently for him to settle the necessities for our tour.

Finally, we were on our way.

Everything was still quite familiar to me with a few remodeled buildings and a new market area. We listened as our guide gave us a detailed history of the island, including its role in the slave trade from the 15th to the 19th centuries, and we followed him in the direction of the House of Slaves.

The House of Slaves, is the most famous landmark on the island, built by the Afro-French Métis family from 1780-1784, and is one of the oldest structures on the island. This is the location where more than 33,000 slaves, torn from their families, were held and then shipped to the western world to work, wage free, never to return.

We made our way through each of the small rooms of the house, taking in our guide’s haunting stories, aware of the atrocities that took place where we now stood. But, until you stand at the Door of No Return at the rear of the structure, you don’t realize what each of these people must have encountered until gazing out at the water beyond the portal. That ocean was their uncertainty. Their new future. One that they could not have envisioned.

Leaving the House of Slaves, we wandered the streets, with our guide, making our way to a small shop where the art of sand painting was demonstrated. Years ago, I remembered seeing this on the hilltop area of the island, however, this store was a little nicer and allowed the artist to exhibit multiple paintings, all for sale.

After a couple of purchases, we once again entered the streets, heading to the Catholic Church of St. Charles Eglise. With my distinct fascination of religious structures, I found it odd that I had never been here before or even knew of its existence.

Remember Fatou? Well, you don’t think she or the other women were going to let us forget our promises to visit their shops. These women began to follow us, asking us to make purchases from them. Although I have more than enough African art, fabric and crafts, it is hard to continually say no when they begin to follow you, interrupting your tour.

And if that wasn’t enough, after our guide led us to the area near the fort (now a museum), relieving himself on a wall as we looked on, he then demanded his payment.

All five of us put up 10,000 CFA each, a total of almost $50.00. Unbelievably, he was not happy about that amount and demanded more, which we refused to hand over. And this was in addition to what we paid for admission to the island, the museum and for the guide tax, which he had assured me a portion would be given to him! A frustrating situation, all due to two people not having identification.

After his hasty departure (in order to make the next ferry), we made our way through the back alleys, eventually losing a couple of our group to the demanding ladies in the market. Gathering our group once again, we made our way to the highest point on the island with its winding walkway lined with giant paintings. This has always been one of my favorite parts of my visits as it is like an art gallery in nature.

On the island’s highest peak, La Castel, we found ourselves in the presence of two large cannons, remnants of the French occupation during World War II. The Vichy cannons were the largest ever made of this type and their turrets now function as homes with artwork and handicrafts for sale near their entrances and clotheslines strung with the occupants’ freshly laundered clothing swaying in the wind. Also topping this pinnacle is the WWII Commemorative Monument which is in the shape of a white sail.

Spending a few minutes in this area, we looked out on the waters that surrounded the island, remembering that the grand cliffs leading down to the ocean were the ones that Gregory Peck scaled to attack Nazi troops in the 1961 movie “The Guns of Navarone”.

Noticing the late hour, we headed down the steep walkway toward the bay and ferry dock for the next boat to Dakar, carefully evading Fatou and the others. Although we would have loved to purchase more to help their businesses, time and funds were running short.

Making our way to the front of the ferry, I suddenly realized how tired I was. It’s a lot to take on the responsibility of a group and to ensure that all goes well and that we everyone achieves what they want from their visit!

So, to wrap up this adventure, if someone asks me for recommendations on visiting Goree Island, I would give them three important pieces of advice.

Hire a reputable guide.

Make sure everyone carries identification.
Pack your patience.

Well…that and a camera!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Dakar-Ile de Goree Ferry

Ferry Schedule: Sunday, 1200-2300, Monday-Thursday, 0645-2300, Friday, 1200-2300, Saturday, 1315-2300. Ferries run every one or two hours.
Fares: Special ferry boat, 1,750,000, Resident, 2,700 CFA, Non-resident, 5,200 CFA

Into the Wild

There was a time when I used to spend multiple days in Senegal.

Having so much time to explore, we saw a great deal of not only the city of Dakar but of the neighboring areas.

One morning, after having been up for most of the night, enjoying a few (or maybe more) cocktails, we convened in the lobby of our hotel for a day’s adventure. Though my eyes may have been a little red and my head throbbing somewhat, I made it downstairs in time to greet our tour guide for the day.

It had always been my desire to go on an African safari. I longed to roam an African nation in an open top vehicle on the search for the Big Five while shooting frame after frame with my telephoto lens. So, when my friend suggested we go to the Bandia Reserve for a “mini safari” experience, I was eager to join her, however, hearing the words, “reserve”, I must admit, I didn’t have many expectations. What I envisioned was more like a zoo.

But as our tour guide, Mass, arrived and herded us into his van, his excitement for the place he was taking us was a bit contagious. After a quick nap in the rear seat, I woke to spectacular sights during the long drive…colorful villages, Senegalese women balancing things on their heads, gaudy buses emblazoned with kooky paint jobs, men driving horse-drawn carts, huge baobab trees.

Though I was still a bit skeptical, the way Mass had described this place…3500 hectacres of grand nature…had me curious as to what we would find.

As we drove around the park, I was amazed. Although I knew this was extremely different from what I would find in say, Tanzania, Kenya or South Africa, I was impressed, especially when we came upon a large group of giraffes lounging in the road, blocking our way.

Fast forward to 2017, for my 50th birthday and 25th wedding anniversary, my husband and I finally went on safari in Tanzania. While vast acres of wilderness spread out before us in the Serengeti, Ngorogoro Crater and Tarangire National Park, my memories of the Bandia Reserve were not so different, except that we didn’t have as much expanse to drive around and that we never found the elusive rhinos that reside in Bandia.

Coming back to Dakar after being off for a year due to Covid, I was excited to see, once again, the city that holds such a dear place in my heart. I was even more excited to learn that a good friend would be flying with me and we, both avid photographers, made plans to go to revisit the Bandia Reserve.

I had made arrangements for Mass to drive us to Bandia Reserve and two other members of our work group decided to join us. After a long night of no sleep, (this time due to work…no cocktails!), we all dozed during the long drive, reminiscent of my first expedition. However, I was awake long enough to enjoy the colorful sights!

As we pulled into the park and exited our vehicle, the first thing I noticed was a gigantic baobab tree (sacred to the Senegalese) and a few monkeys scampering around its base. Mesmerized by these small apes and their antics, we were unaware that our vehicle was ready to be loaded and we had to be collected by Mass as our safari driver was ready to take us through the park.

Heading out on the bumpy, dirt roads, we passed through the part of the park that houses the giant tortoises and the hyenas. The hyenas have a place of “honor” behind a tall, secure chain link gate and are the only carnivores within the park. As you can imagine, since the park is secured by towering barricades at its borders, the other residents would be sitting ducks for these fierce, doglike creatures during their comestible pursuits.

Continuing into the wild, it wasn’t long before we had our first encounter. A group of giraffes were enjoying the shade of a robust baobab tree and the nearby thicket. One stood warily as we approached, seemingly ready to defend its turf if we ventured too close while others merely ignored our presence. A short drive away, we encountered a group of three young males eager to show their prowess by fighting each other by using their necks.

As we made our way down each of the dusty roads, we encountered, ostriches, giant eland, oryx, antelope, waterbuck, western Buffon’s cob, greater kudu, nyalas, impalas, gazelles, warthogs, buffalo, more monkeys, more giraffe and many species of bird.

Not long after an encounter with a pair of zebras, we were driving along and noticed another jeep parked down a narrow lane. Our driver quickly turned and approached slowly. What had eluded us on my first visit was sitting lazily under the tree in front of us…the park’s two rhinos! Resting in the shade, these magnificent creatures, used to being gawked at by visitors, merely looked over at us through heavily lidded eyes with much disinterest. Finally, one stood and took a few steps toward our vehicle, giving us more photographic opportunities and the impression that maybe we had worn out our welcome.

Backing slowly, we retreated the way we had come in search of more adventure in Bandia.

A short time later, after countless sighting of smaller animals and more giraffe, we came to another giant baobab tree and a sign, Tombeau de Griots (the Tomb of the Griots). This tree is one of the last baobab trees that house griot remains. The griots are considered masters of knowledge and keepers of historical records across generations. They include singers, poets, instrumentalists, musicians and storytellers who maintain a tradition of oral history in parts of West Africa. Because the baobabs are considered sacred and represent longevity and knowledge, they were chosen to be the appropriate place to store the remains of the griots.

I had remembered this place from my first visit and as I jumped out of the jeep and peered into the opening at the base of the baobab tree, I once again saw the skulls of the griots. They are protected by a metal screen so that the bones cannot be disturbed. Although these remains have been allowed to stay inside of this particular baobab tree due to it being on private property, since 1962, the burial of griots in baobabs has been banned due to the health risks of the decomposition of bodies.

After a couple of photos with my travel mates, we jumped back into our safari jeep and headed back to the front of the reserve. Inside the restaurant, we took a look at the crocodiles in the lake and skirted the monkeys looking for a handout from the diners.

*Restaurants, shops and public areas at the Bandia Reserve.*

It had already been a long day, but Mass decided that it was not over. Though we toyed with the idea of dining at the reserve, our guide promised us that he had a much better place. A short drive took us to the beachfront in Saly for some fresh seafood and picturesque views.

Once again, Senegal did not disappoint. Nature at its finest…on all fronts!

If you are visiting Dakar, make sure to book a trip to the Bandia Reserve, one of Senegal’s highlights. Also, right across the street is the Lion Ranch…your opportunity to see the big cats of Senegal. Definitely on my to-do list!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Bandia Reserve

http://reservedebandia.com/home.html
Address: N 2 Route de Mbour, Saly, SN
Hours: 0800-1800, daily
Admission: Payments can be made in FCFA, Euros or by credit card. Adults, 12,000 FCFA or 18.50€, Children under 12 years, 7,000 FCFA or 10.50€. Use outside vehicle (personal, taxi, car), 10,000 FCFA or 15€, Safari truck rental with up to 11 seats, 40,000 FCFA or 61€, Safari truck rental up to 24 seats, 60,000 FCFA or 91€, Guide (compulsory)per vehicle, 6.500 FCFA or 10€.
Getting There: Coming from Dakar by motorway, take the Sindia/Popeguine exit number 14 to Sindia in 2 km, then take a right on the National Road (N1) Dakar-Mbour for 3,3 km, turn left at the signposts, continue the track in laterite for 800m. Coming from Saly, you will have 15 km to travel and 18 km from Mbour.

Motherland Experience Travel Tours

http://themotherlandexperiencetraveltours.com
Telephone: +221 77 295 24 24
Email: Kanemass@hotmail.com
Owner: Mass Kane