All good things must come to an end, but better things may be in store.
Our time exploring other parts of Croatia was complete, but we were leaving beautiful little Hvar Town, heading back to the beautiful city of Dubrovnik and now we knew what to expect. There were many things we wanted to do and see, including our new friend, Ivusa.
Our ferry from Hvar Town to Dubrovnik
The ferry ride was a bit longer this time, but included a stop to pick up and deposit other passengers in Korčula. Since I was able to grab a spot on the back deck as we made our way to the dock, I had prime viewing of the beautiful old city. Why didn’t we spend a few days here? Definitely next time!
Lovely Korčula!
Four hours later, after our departure from Hvar, we were disembarking in Dubrovnik and catching a taxi to the Old Town. Our Airbnb, this time, was within the Old Town city walls…in fact, it was adjacent to Stradun, the city’s main pedestrian street, so a bit more convenient in that we didn’t have to climb twenty-two billion stairs!
Martecchini Airbnb apartment
After depositing our luggage in our room, we were off!
The Dominican Monastery, just around the corner, was first on our list. Dating back to the 14th century, the monastery is one of the most important architectural landmarks in the city and contains a great number of paintings, artifacts, jewelry and other items from Dubrovnik’s history. Its bell towers are prominent when walking the walls of the city, however, these not quite being as old as the monastery itself. Begun in the 16th century, they were only completed in the 18th.
Within the monastery, is the Gothic church of Saint Dominic, usually richly decorated and filled with treasures including the large golden crucifix above the main altar from the 14th century. Under construction at the time, we had to use our imaginations in order to “see” what it usually presents. The monastery museum was also quite intriguing with its vast jewelry collection and paintings from the Dubrovnik art school from the 15th and 16th centuries.
Churchof St. Dominic
Treasures from the Dominican Monastery MuseumTreasures from the Dominican Monastery MuseumTreasures from the Dominican Monastery Museum
Making our way through the abbey, we noted the Capital Hall, where the monastic community held its meetings, and the porches of the cloister which were added in the 15th century. Within the cloister is a rich green oasis complete with a stone well crown and I would imagine this was a favorite place for the residents to relax and enjoy nature’s beauty.
After our visit was complete, we walked a short distance, past the clock tower, to the Church of St. Blaise. The steps of this church is both a meeting place, due to its central location near the clock tower, and a resting place, perfect for people watching. We also noticed that many from the community congregate here, including the children, who play games on the steps and in Luza Square in front of the church.
Clock Tower
Church of St. BlaiseChurch of St. Blaise
The interior of this church did not disappoint my “church fascination” with its beautifully decorated golden altar, taking my breath away when I entered. Named after the patron saint of Dubrovnik, the church was built in 1715, by Venetian architect and sculptor Marino Gropelli on the foundations of a past Romanesque medieval church. This saint is featured on the main altar in gilt silver, crafted in the 15th century by an unknown master. In the saint’s left hand is a scale model of the Romanesque church which was destroyed by the earthquake of 1667 and he is flanked by two kneeling angels. This statue was the only one which survived the fire of 1706.
Church of St. Blaise
In front of the church is another of Dubrovnik’s landmarks, Orlando’s column. Unfortunately, this was under renovation and closed off by metal fencing. This tall and slender stone flag column is decorated with a depiction of a medieval knight, Orlando, who according to legend, helped the people of old Dubrovnik defeat invaders in the middle ages. A monument to freedom, it details the help aquired to remain a free trade city-state and acts as a flag holder which displays the Libertas (freedom) flag as well as the St. Blaise festival flag. An interesting note about the statue; the knight’s forearm is 51.25 centimeters long, the standard Dubrovnik measurement for fabric, where local merchants were measuring, cutting and selling fabric.
Orlando’s Column (under construction)
Orlando’s Column courtesy of justdubrovnik.com
A little further down the Stradun, we headed into the Franciscan Church. Much as I wanted to visit the Monastery and Museum, I decided to wait until the next morning as I thought that seeing another monastery was probably not what my husband had in mind. The church was a good compromise as the afternoon was nearing its end and he was anxious to start happy hour and revisit Lady Pipi restaurant which was near this location.
A large complex, consisting of the church, monastery, library, and pharmacy, belonging to the Order of the Friars Minor, was built in 1317, but with its construction taking centuries to complete. The original church was destroyed in the earthquake of 1667 and much of the complex was rebuilt several times with the only remaining element being the decorated portal which overlooks the main street.
Franciscan Church
Franciscan Church
The Baroque interior was stunning as we entered through the main doors with its diagonally patterned tile floor and and large, gilded chandelier. The main altar contained a statue of Christ between four twisted marble columns and the five side altars were sculpted by Venetian Giuseppe Sardi between 1684 and 1696. An important side note, we learned, is that poet Ivan Gundulić is buried in the church.
Continuing our explorations, we decided to see more of what lay beyond the gates. A short walk past the Pile Gate, through which we had entered earlier on our return, brought us past the Amerling Fountain, the overlook for the Beach Sulic, which we would later realize was the place Cersei Lannister on Game of Thrones would stand, the Imperial Hilton Hotel and almost to the Church of St. Elizabeth, a small chapel. Heading back to the Old Town, we wandered through its streets and alleyways appreciating the architecture and its beauty.
Amerling Fountain
Overlook for the Beach SulicSites outside Dubrovnik’s Pile Gate
Imperial Hilton Hotel
Chapel of St. Elizabeth
Dubrovnik’s Pile GateOld Town SitesOld Town SitesOld Town SitesOld Town Sites
At this point, my husband was truly at the end of his touring mode…but I spotted the Church of the Holy Annunciation. Promising only a quick peek, I ducked in and inspected the Serbian Orthodox church which was constructed in 1887. Though I was only inside for a few moments, I learned later that this impressive church has a huge collection of icons dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries within its museum and an impressive library containing over 12,000 volumes, including a gospel in Russian printed in Moscow in 1805.
Church of the Holy Annunciation
Finally, it was time for the long walk up the stairs for our grilled seafood platter “A La Pipi”!
“It’s about time!” said my husband. Long days definitely lead to good things!
Old Town at Night
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After enjoying our live music, we decided to leave the windows open to enjoy the fresh night air while we slept.
In the early hours of the morning, my husband was awakened by a sound. The way he described it was “otherworldly”, moving through the town and palace and causing the dogs to all begin barking and howling. It was as if something flew over and through the area.
I was awakened by the sound of him moving through the room and hastily shutting the windows and closing the curtains. As he realized that I was awake, visibly shaken he asked me if I had heard the sound. In a deep sleep, I had not, but I realized that he was most unnerved and wondered what exactly he had heard. Later, after thinking about the parts of the country that are remote and desolate and its history steeped in stories about vampires, giants and witches, I thought that maybe he had indeed experienced something out of this world.
A few hours later, my husband was up, packing his clothes and making a quick breakfast. As much as he had enjoyed the city of Split, he seemed determined to head down to the ferry as quickly as we could. He really was quite shaken!
After a quick walk, we determined which pier our ferry was departing from and grabbed a seat and waited for our boarding time.
Boarding commenced and we found a seat on the small ferry, readying ourselves for the hour and fifteen minute ride. Before we knew it, we had spotted the shoreline of Hvar and were disembarking on the main pier of Hvar Town.
Ferry from Split to Hvar.First glimpses of Hvar.
Since the check-in time for our Airbnb was much later in the afternoon, we decided to check our bags into a storage facility, grab some lunch and then check out some of the sights in the area. After a quick stop at the Tourist Information office, I had a map and a list of all the pertinent things in Hvar Town.
Hvar main square.
After walking around the town a bit, we decided to tackle Fortica Spajnola (the Spanish Fortress or City Fortress), the citadel that towers over the town on the adjacent mountaintop, we headed up the many steps leading up to the fortress’s path. A little tired and now, very hot, we plodded on knowing that the end result would be stunning views of the town below and gaining some insight into the town’s history.
Fortica Spajnola in the distance.
Twenty five minutes later and a little winded, we made it to the entrance and after paying our entrance fee, we began our explorations of this historic structure.
Fortica SpajnolaFortica Spajnola
The building of the City Fortress was started in 1278 during the era of the Venetian empire. In 1551, a new fortress was built to replace the original to offer protection to the population that had retreated to the island during the Turkish Invasion in 1571. An explosion caused much destruction in 1579 and modifications and repairs were made at the beginning of the 17th century by building the Baroque defensive bastions. Army barracks were completed in 1775 and 1776. Today, as the island remains safe from invaders, the fortress stands preserved above the town as a reminder of its turbulent past.
Fortica Spajnola
Fortica Spajnola
Fortica Spajnola
Fortica Spajnola
Fortica Spajnola
Making our way through the maze of passageways, we discovered not only a collection of amphora and other exhibits from antiquity and the Middle Ages, but atop, stunning panoramic views of Hvar Town and the surrounding Pakleni islands. Thankfully, by this time a cool ocean breeze had refreshed us enough to enjoy the setting and we sat at the café to enjoy a cold drink.
Fortica SpajnolaFortica SpajnolaFortica Spajnola
Checking the time, we made our way down towards town first stopping at the small ruined chapel of Kostel Panny Marie na Kruvenicic (Church of the Virgin Mary in Kruvenica). Although the door was locked, we were able to walk around the building and take some nice photographs. Continuing on, we made our way down the mountainside, back to the stairs of the city, casually inspecting alleyways, architecture and shops along our path.
Kostel Panny Marie na Kruvenicic (Church of the Virgin Mary in KruvenicaKostel Panny Marie na Kruvenicic (Church of the Virgin Mary in Kruvenica
Reclaiming our luggage, we headed towards the Loggia, the 13th century remains of the governor’s palace that now houses the five-star Palace Elisabeth Hotel. Taking a seat, we waited for instructions from our Airbnb host. Although the property was supposed to be ready for occupancy at 4:00 p.m., we began to get a bit nervous when there was no contact from our host. After continuously texting, we eventually received a message, that he was taking care of a few last minute things in the apartment…frustrating when check-out is 11:00 a.m. and things should have been ready for our arrival five hours later. Close to 5:00 p.m., we were met by our host, learning that he had much on his plate with his wife pregnant and due any day, and escorted to what would be our headquarters for until we would depart for Dubrovnik a couple of days later. A nice place, situated above the popular Lola Bar, we once again had VIP seating for the live music below later in the evening.
Loggia
Loggia
That evening, we headed out to the waterfront, drinks in hand, to watch the sunset and the mega yachts sail into the harbor and contemplate what our next day would bring.
Hvar RivaHvar RivaNighttime in Hvar
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Spanish Fortress (Fortica Spajnola)
Address: Ul. Biskupa Jurja Dubokovica 80, 21450, Hvar, Croatia
Hours: 0900-2000
Admission: Adults, 40 HRK, Children (7-16 years), 20 HRK, Children (under 7 years), free
Getting There: Walk from the main square to the north, passing the main city gate or Porta di Datalla (Gate of Dates) to ascend the stairs or take a taxi.
Kostel Panny Marie na Kruvenicic (Church of the Virgin Mary in Kruvenica)
Address: Ul. Higijeničkog Društva 9, 21450, Hvar, Croatia
Hours: 0900-2000
Admission: free
Getting There: Walk from the main square to the north, passing the main city gate or Porta di Datalla (Gate of Dates) to ascend the stairs or take a taxi.
Over the course of more than a decade, I have spent considerable time in Dakar, Senegal. A vibrant city with much history and friendly people, there is no shortage of places to visit and things to do.
One of the most sought-after destinations for most visitors is Goree Island and that was the first place on my agenda when I arrived more than 11 years ago.
A short walk from our hotel was the ferry port and a twenty-five minute choppy boat ride had us approaching a colorful island nestled in the Atlantic waters off of the coast of Senegal. It was quite the adventure! Over the years, I made many trips to Ile de Goree, but some time had passed since my last. Walks around the island always revealed the Portuguese, Dutch, English and French influences. I always found photographic opportunities at every turn and I had been toying with the idea of a return.
As I overheard two of my co-workers, on their first trip to Senegal, questioning whether or not to venture out to the island on their own, I decided that maybe it was time to reacquaint myself with the beautiful island and I offered to take them there.
Noting the ferry schedule, we decided to leave our hotel (now much farther from the city center) about an hour prior to our selected ferry. Little did I realize how much more congested the city’s streets and roadways had become. Sitting in bumper-to-bumper traffic, we inched forward along the coast, ultimately realizing that we would not make it in time. Our two taxis finally arrived at the port only to discover that COVID and security restrictions had personnel limiting those who could enter and demanding identification. While I had my driver’s license with me, I discovered that two others had not brought any identification…at all. This certainly put a kink in our plans!
A gentleman, who had been hovering nearby, suddenly stepped in and introduced himself as a tour guide. He went on the explain that those wishing to visit Goree with a tour guide leading the way, could enter without identification.
Smelling a rat, I questioned him further, wanting to know the cost of his services.
“You pay me at the end of the tour what you think I am worth.”
Although he had the official tour guide badge, I have been in this situation before and it never ends well. But what other option did we have at this point? Jump into two more taxis and go back the way we had come, enduring more than another hour’s worth of traffic?
Reluctantly, I made an agreement with him. We paid him the cost of the ferry tickets and the cost of the admittance to the island along with the tour guide tax (paid to the island) and took a few seats in the nearby restaurant to wait out the time until the next ferry departure.
At two-thirty on the dot, our boat pulled away from the dock and we enjoyed the salty breeze on our journey, punctuated with pleasant conversations with some of the local women. Though these conversations seemed innocent enough, it wasn’t until we arrived that I remembered their purpose.
“Enjoy your visit. My name is Fatou. I have a stand in the market. Come see me and buy something.”
Making our way with our guide along the dock and to the crescent beach area, we waited patiently for him to settle the necessities for our tour.
Finally, we were on our way.
Everything was still quite familiar to me with a few remodeled buildings and a new market area. We listened as our guide gave us a detailed history of the island, including its role in the slave trade from the 15th to the 19th centuries, and we followed him in the direction of the House of Slaves.
The House of Slaves, is the most famous landmark on the island, built by the Afro-French Métis family from 1780-1784, and is one of the oldest structures on the island. This is the location where more than 33,000 slaves, torn from their families, were held and then shipped to the western world to work, wage free, never to return.
We made our way through each of the small rooms of the house, taking in our guide’s haunting stories, aware of the atrocities that took place where we now stood. But, until you stand at the Door of No Return at the rear of the structure, you don’t realize what each of these people must have encountered until gazing out at the water beyond the portal. That ocean was their uncertainty. Their new future. One that they could not have envisioned.
Leaving the House of Slaves, we wandered the streets, with our guide, making our way to a small shop where the art of sand painting was demonstrated. Years ago, I remembered seeing this on the hilltop area of the island, however, this store was a little nicer and allowed the artist to exhibit multiple paintings, all for sale.
After a couple of purchases, we once again entered the streets, heading to the Catholic Church of St. Charles Eglise. With my distinct fascination of religious structures, I found it odd that I had never been here before or even knew of its existence.
Remember Fatou? Well, you don’t think she or the other women were going to let us forget our promises to visit their shops. These women began to follow us, asking us to make purchases from them. Although I have more than enough African art, fabric and crafts, it is hard to continually say no when they begin to follow you, interrupting your tour.
And if that wasn’t enough, after our guide led us to the area near the fort (now a museum), relieving himself on a wall as we looked on, he then demanded his payment.
All five of us put up 10,000 CFA each, a total of almost $50.00. Unbelievably, he was not happy about that amount and demanded more, which we refused to hand over. And this was in addition to what we paid for admission to the island, the museum and for the guide tax, which he had assured me a portion would be given to him! A frustrating situation, all due to two people not having identification.
After his hasty departure (in order to make the next ferry), we made our way through the back alleys, eventually losing a couple of our group to the demanding ladies in the market. Gathering our group once again, we made our way to the highest point on the island with its winding walkway lined with giant paintings. This has always been one of my favorite parts of my visits as it is like an art gallery in nature.
On the island’s highest peak, La Castel, we found ourselves in the presence of two large cannons, remnants of the French occupation during World War II. The Vichy cannons were the largest ever made of this type and their turrets now function as homes with artwork and handicrafts for sale near their entrances and clotheslines strung with the occupants’ freshly laundered clothing swaying in the wind. Also topping this pinnacle is the WWII Commemorative Monument which is in the shape of a white sail.
Spending a few minutes in this area, we looked out on the waters that surrounded the island, remembering that the grand cliffs leading down to the ocean were the ones that Gregory Peck scaled to attack Nazi troops in the 1961 movie “The Guns of Navarone”.
Noticing the late hour, we headed down the steep walkway toward the bay and ferry dock for the next boat to Dakar, carefully evading Fatou and the others. Although we would have loved to purchase more to help their businesses, time and funds were running short.
Making our way to the front of the ferry, I suddenly realized how tired I was. It’s a lot to take on the responsibility of a group and to ensure that all goes well and that we everyone achieves what they want from their visit!
So, to wrap up this adventure, if someone asks me for recommendations on visiting Goree Island, I would give them three important pieces of advice.
Hire a reputable guide.
Make sure everyone carries identification. Pack your patience.
Well…that and a camera!
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Dakar-Ile de Goree Ferry
Ferry Schedule: Sunday, 1200-2300, Monday-Thursday, 0645-2300, Friday, 1200-2300, Saturday, 1315-2300. Ferries run every one or two hours.
Fares: Special ferry boat, 1,750,000, Resident, 2,700 CFA, Non-resident, 5,200 CFA
The early bird gets the worm…or a great breakfast!
Although I had checked many things off of my list of things to do in Havana, there was still a great deal more to see! As I sat in the dining room, enjoying my eggs, fruit and toast, I checked my map and thought more about the some of the things that were suggested by my seatmate on the flight to Havana.
Deciding to start at the Basilica and Convent of San Francis of Assisi, I thought that I would finally see more of the religious institutions that dot the predominately Catholic country.
Getting anywhere was slow going as I was continually distracted by the unique architecture that existed on each block. Passing the Museo Casa de Mexico Benito Juarez, I made a note to return later if there was time and then made a quick stop to admire the statue of Simon Bolivar, the Venezuelan military and political leader who led Venezuela, Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Panama to independence from the Spanish Empire.
Casa de Benito Juarezand Simon Bolivar Statue
Finally arriving in the Plaza de San Francisco de Asis, I first sought out two significant statues. The monument to the Polish composer, Frederic Chopin, sits on a bench, beckoning visitors to take a seat next to him and El Caballero, the bronze likeness of José María López Lledín, a man which much speculation once surrounded. An interesting story surrounds the latter. Originally from Spain, he was was said to have lost his family, arrested for a crime he did not commit and wandered the streets of Havana during the 1950s. He always carried a portfolio with his treasured pens, gifts and colored pieces of cards, which he bestowed on passersby. Over time, he became well known throughout the city and would often entertain with poetry recitals and storytelling. He died in 1985 and was buried in the Cemetery of Santiago de las Vegas. After the restoration of the plaza in the late 1990s, his remains were exhumed and placed in the Basilica Menor de San Francisco de Asis. His statue was erected in 2001 and was designed by sculptor José Villa Soberón, who also sculpted the John Lennon sculpture which can be found in the Parque Lennon in Vedado. His beard has been rubbed shiny and it is said that doing so gives good luck!
After a beard rubbing, I admired the lovely, wide open plaza and the beautiful buildings surrounding it, as well as the statue of Fray Junípero Serro with a Juaneño Indian boy, before entering the Basilica.
The original church that stood on this site was built by the Franciscans in 1591 but was damaged by severe storms in 1680 and 1692. A hurricane toppled its tower in 1694. Eventually, construction resulted in the church’s present Baroque stature in 1739, was named a basilica by the Pope and became the city’s premier house of worship. It eventually adjoined the adjacent Franciscan convent.
As I ventured inside, again I was a bit underwhelmed, as I had been with the Havana Cathedral. Its interior is in the shape of a Latin cross with domed ceilings, however, it lacked the grandeur that I thought would exist here. As I later learned, however, from 1762, the church no longer served the Catholic religion. From this time, the British had control over Havana and commandeered the basilica for Anglican services. Considered desecrated by the Protestants, Catholicism never existed within its walls again. Although the monks continued to occupy the convent, Queen Maria Cristina of Spain closed the building and transferred the members of the religious order. In 1907, the property was purchased by the government and sadly, became a warehouse.
Today, the church acts as one of Havana’s most outstanding concert halls and is home to the acclaimed all-female chamber orchestra, Camerata Romeu. As I wandered through the church, I was privy to some of the members performing during a rehearsal session.
Inside the crypt, the remains of many 17th and 18th century aristocrats can be found. The nave and the attached cloister also houses the Museum of Sacred Art which exhibits paintings by José Nicolás de la Escalera and Vicente Escobar, wooden images, early marriage registries and the armchairs and lectern used by Fidel Castro and Pope John Paul II during his 1998 visit. Though I enjoyed wandering through the church’s interior, it was the cloister with its fern-filled courtyards and countless rooms filled with religious artifacts that was most captivating.
The former church’s one hundred and thirty-seven foot tower, once the tallest in Havana (second tallest in Cuba), was previously crowned by a statue of St. Francis of Assisi, whose head was severed during a hurricane in 1846. Though the tower can be accessed by a somewhat rickety staircase (which I had planned to tackle for the beautiful views of the city), it was sadly not meant to be…the spire was closed due to maintenance.
Making my departure, I headed south on Oficios and immediately found myself staring at a train’s coach car, El Coche Mambi. Entering the car, I was greeted by an elderly woman, who explained (in Spanish) that visiting was by tour only. After paying her, she then led me through the car which was used by the Presidents on their tours of the country. Last used by Fidel Castro Ruz, the coach has been converted into a museum and preserved the same as when it was in use. Though my Spanish is basic, I mostly understood the history and what I was seeing as she led me through the coach and explained its contents. The president’s bedroom, the president’s wife’s bedroom, the kitchen, dining room and the president’s desk were quite interesting and beautifully displayed.
As I thanked the gracious senora for the short, yet insightful stopover, I ventured out, making my way to the waterside.
Headed toward the ferry terminal, I first encountered Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral. Since I had deemed the day, “a church day”, I decided that my ferry to Regla could wait while I find if it was possible to see the church’s interior. Discovering unlocked doors, I peered inside, spying a woman performing some tasks. She did not seem disturbed by my presence, so I quietly entered and moved throughout the space, discovering each of the elements that make an orthodox church unique.
The church’s construction dates back to 2004 when Cuban leader Fidel Castro offered to build the cathedral as a monument to Russian and Cuban good-will. The cathedral was built in the Byzantine style with a central golden cupola surrounded by four smaller copper-colored ones. The pieces of the cupolas, as well as elements of decoration, including the floor covering and the church plate, were brought from Moscow and the interior has space for 500 congregants.
After my walk-thru was complete, I ventured back out into the sunshine, finally heading to the ferry terminal. My destination was the small town across the bay where the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla is located. Though I probably would have not done this without some coaxing, it was highly recommended by the tour guide that I sat beside on the airplane. After hearing how much I love visiting churches, he insisted that I take the ferry to see this church, which houses the black Madonna, a highly venerated statue of the Virgin Mary.
I was a bit nervous as I entered the ferry terminal. After having my bag searched, I unsuccessfully searched for a ticket counter. There were many people waiting and as a boat approached from the south, I assumed that this was the correct vessel. Lining up with both locals and tourists, I asked a gentleman if this was the boat to Regla and was told yes, only to glance up and discover that another boat had pulled up to the dock. Hmmm. I decided that I would go with my gut!
As I approached the lanchita on the right, I saw people paying the crew as they boarded. Thankfully, I had smaller change, even though I overpaid a bit…ticket price was only 10 centavos! Making my way across the boat to the open doorways, so that I could get some air while fighting for space among the masses, I again asked someone (who appeared to be a local) if I was on the boat to Regla. “Si Señora”, he replied and I breathed a sigh of relief.
As we pulled away from the dock, I realized that if I indeed was on the wrong boat, the other ferry crossed the bay to the Christ statue and that wouldn’t be such a bad thing. Our ferry motored off, getting further from the city and I spied the golden cupola of Our Lady of Kazan in the distance, reflecting the brilliant glow of the day. And…it looked like we were headed in the right direction!
Seven minutes later, we were pulling up to the dock in Regla and I decided to follow those who appeared to be tourists. From the looks of the area, it seemed like the church was the tourist destination of choice…maybe the only choice.
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla was a short walk and I was met by many vendors sitting on the stone gates which surrounded the church, hoping to sell me a candle or an offering to the Virgin. The church, with its long colorful history, is extremely important to the believers of the Virgin. The statue, which was believed to have been carved by St. Augustine “the African” in the 5th century, was brought from Spain in 453. After surviving a storm in the Strait of Gibraltar, it became known as the patron of sailors.
A small hut was built on the site, to house a copy of the image in 1687 by a pilgrim named Manuel Antonio, but was destroyed by a hurricane only five years later. A more durable chapel was built a few years later and in 1714, Nuestra Señora de Regla was proclaimed patron of the Bahía de la Habana. In 1957, the image was crowned by the Cuban Cardinal in the Havana Cathedral. On September 7, the saint is celebrated when thousands of pilgrims descend on Regla and the image is paraded through the streets.
The church’s vaulted ceiling makes a grand statement above the lightness of the church’s color scheme which is trimmed in blue, a salute to its association with the sea. There are beautiful paintings which depict life on the ocean, carved stations of the cross, saint’s statues and a golden side altar. As you enter the church, however, it is the altar, directly in your line of vision, that houses La Santísima Virgen de Regla. Though I had to wait a short time, I was finally able to approach the altar and take pictures of the Black Madonna…truly awe inspiring.
The ferry ride back to Old Havana was a quick affair and I toyed with the idea of immediately jumping on the other ferry. I wanted to revisit the Christ Statue and Castillo Des Los Tres Reyes Del Morro and I also wanted to tour La Cabana. There were other things in Old Havana that I wanted to discover first, however, so off I went by land, towards the Almacenes San José Artisan’s Market.
Since I had done a bit of browsing on Obispo street, but not yet made any significant purchases, I was eager to see what I might find in this highly recommended establishment. Built in 1885, the Havana’s oldest depository is the home to the largest artisan’s market in the city. A short walk from the harbor, it is easily accessible to cruise ship arrivals and offers everything from clothes to paintings to toys and tobacco accessories. The sheer size of it was quite overwhelming and I was not sure where to turn. As everyone tried to garner my attention, I decided that I would try to find shirts for my sons and a nativity set for my collection. In a predominately Catholic country, it would seem that finding a nativity set would be an easy feat, however, it took at least a half an hour of talking to people, who then went to talk to people, in order to find one! And since I was pretty particular about the type of t-shirts that I was searching for, it was a similar procedure. It was quite exhausting, but I met some interesting people, learned some interesting local news and walked away with the purchases I had planned and then a couple of unplanned ones too!
With my heavy package, I decided that I would begin heading back to my Airbnb to drop them and have a quick bite to eat. Crossing the street, however, I spotted the Church of St. Francisco of Paula. What caught my attention was the tall trio of stained glass windows on the rear of the church. I decided that I should take a quick look from the inside to see their sunlit beauty.
What originally served as an important hospital for women and children during the end of the 17th century, was built with an adjoining church devoted to St. Francis of Paola, one of the founders of the Roman Catholic Order of the Minims. The buildings were destroyed by a hurricane in 1730, but rebuilt in the Baroque style that is seen today. When the Havana Central Railroad attempts to demolish the church was met by opposition, work was completed to have it listed as a National Monument in 1944. Sadly, however, the railroad was able to destroy the hospital.
The church that can be visited today is similar in style to other Havana churches, those of Santo Domingo, Guanabacoa and San Francisco de Asis and has been extensively restored. The stained glass windows, that lured me inside, act as the altarpiece and this church has the only organ that has been preserved in Cuba with its original pipes and machinery. The ashes of the great Cuban violinist Claudio José Brindis de Salas (1852-1911), considered one of the best violinists of his time, are preserved in the church and although the the belfry still exists, its original three bells, destroyed during the hurricane of 1730, were never restored.
My stomach was starting to rumble and my feet were starting to ache, but there was one more church I wanted to see before I shifted gears. A couple of blocks from St. Francis of Paola church was the Iglesia y Convento de la Merced.
Having seen a few churches in the city, I had been a bit underwhelmed. This one, however, did not disappoint. One of the most beautiful churches in Havana, it was built between 1865 and 1867 in the Baroque style and is the type to make you gasp as you lay your eyes on the interior. Decorated by Cuban artists, it contains murals and frescoes throughout with highlights of light blue on the ceiling and an elegant black and white marble floor. Beautiful statuary and intricately carved stations of the cross grace its heart and it was hard not to take a seat on the old carved pews to rest and pray for a few moments. The most intriguing part of the church, however, was the chapel on the left side of the church with a full grotto installed behind the altar. Though the church is suffering from exposure to the damp air and is in need of restoration, it is truly one that I was glad that I did not miss.
Finally, it was time to continue my journey back to my temporary home. It had been a busy morning and I needed to refresh and refuel. After my lunch, it would be time to change channels from churches to the forts that lay across the channel.
From prayers to protection…all in a day in Havana!
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Casa Benito Juarez
Address: 116, Obrapia, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: Sunday and Tuesday only, 0930-1430.
Admission: Unknown
Statue of Simon Bolivar
Address: Mercaderes, Obrapia, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Convento and Basilica Menor of San Francis of Assisi
Address: Plaza de San Francisco La Habana Vieja, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0930-1800, daily
Admission: Church and Museum, $2 CUC (about $2 US), Tower $1 CUC (about $1 US), Children under 12 years, free
El Coche Mambi
Address: Oficios y Churruca, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 0930-1600. Closed Sunday.
Admission: By tour only, $2 CUC (about $2 US)
Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral
Address: Avenida del Puerto Esquina Calles Sol y Santa Clara – La Habana Vieja, Havana 10100 Cuba
Hours: No posted opening times
Admission: free
Terminal de Ferris (Ferry Terminal)
Address: Avenue Del Puerto, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 0400-midnight, daily.
Admission: 10 centavos (about 10 cents US)
Capacity is 90 persons and boats depart every 15 minutes
Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Regla
Address: Avenue Marti, Regla, Cuba
Hours: 0800-1700, daily
Admission: free, donations accepted
Almacenes San José Artisan’s Market
Address: Avenida del Puerto corner of Calle Cuba
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 1000-1800. Closed on Monday.
Admission: free
St. Francis of Paola
Address: 110 Leonor Pérez, Havana, Cuba
Hours: No posted opening times
Admission: free
Iglesia Y Convento de la Merced
Address: Calle de Cuba 806, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Hours listed are 0800-1200 and 1500-1700, Monday-Saturday and 0900-1300, Sunday, however, I ventured in after the noon hour, so church may or may not be closed. Mass times are 0900, Monday-Saturday and noon, Sunday
Thousands of soldiers took part in this important charge and in addition to these participants, the mission employed a millenary of ships, airplanes and tanks.
As with the passage of time, most who lived to recall the events of this day have passed on…
Most of the mechanical craft that saw action have been retired, scrapped or gone to their grave. Incredibly, some have been restored and live on in museums, but there are few that are actively continuing their careers in a different capacity.
The USS LST-510 was designed to be a short-lived assault craft which was designed to allow the landing of both armored and unarmored vehicles on a beach. Appearing to be a basic cargo ship, it was able to deceive those surveilling the area. The LST, also known by its crews as a Large Slow Target, had a flat bottom and was able to sail directly up to or close to shore. It then opened the ramp hidden inside a door on its bow and allowed vehicles to exit and go to combat.
Having contributed to the success of and having survived D-Day, the USL LST-510 was destined to continue its career long into the next century. Now known as the M/V Cape Henlopen, this World War II survivor was sold into commercial hands and was converted into a car ferry. The ferry’s name and owners have changed over the years, but her new mission has remained constant.
Today, the M/V Cape Henlopen crosses the Long Island Sound between Orient Point, New York and New London, Connecticut.
When we had decided to take the ferry while making our way to Massachusetts, we had heard about this World War II survivor from a few locals. Never did we realize, however, that the ferry that we would be traveling on would be this historic seafaring vessel. In fact, as we sat in line, waiting for it to arrive, we were more concerned with the overcast skies and deteriorating weather conditions.
After driving on board, we exited our vehicles and made our way into the wind and drizzle, attempting to climb the stairs to the lounge area as quickly as possible. As I glanced over to the right, a blue sign caught my eye, perhaps the only clue to this ship’s wartime service.
This was the one we had heard of!
Excitedly, we entered the lounge area and took a look around. Sadly, there was nothing more to see which informed travelers of her historic and significant past.
Our ride was uneventful and a short hour and fifteen minutes later, we were arriving in New London.
Ordinarily, upon arriving at one’s destination, passengers are often in a rush to disembark and continue on their journey. As we sat in my friend’s Ford Expedition, we glanced around as we drove slowly from the hold and imagined what the soldiers who manned the vehicles in the hold on that pivotal day must have felt.
Fear and anticipation.
For us, there was only admiration.
This magnificent veteran played such an important part in history and continues to serve the citizens of our nation to this day.
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There was one thing that I wanted to do while in Charleston but it can sometimes be tricky during the winter.
Fort Sumter.
Less frequent boat schedules and colder weather are sometimes off-putting, so, when I noticed that temperatures were going to be unseasonably warm while I would be in Charleston, I decided that my plan would be a “go”.
Armed with a few layers and an umbrella (just in case), I headed over to the Liberty Square with an intent to catch the afternoon boat. Though it is recommended to purchase tickets in advance during the busier months, I found no problem in purchasing one at the last minute at the National Park Visitor Center.
The Visitor Center offers information about the Fort and its history to browse before boarding the boat and I read through the information while awaiting our boarding time.
The boat, a pseudo paddle wheeler, soon pulled adjacent to the pier. Taking a spot in the front of the boat, I enjoyed the breezy thirty minute ride to the island.
Once we arrived, we were given sixty minutes to tour the fort and the island. National Parks rangers greeted us at the pier and instructed those wanting to take part in the close-of-the-day flag ceremony to follow them to the upper part of the fort. Interesting as that sounded, I was more interested in taking unobstructed photographs, so I used this time, while others were occupied, to walk around the fort.
Construction began on the fort in 1829 and was named for Revolutionary War general and South Carolina native, Thomas Sumter. The fort was one of fifty built as part of a coastal defense program implemented by Congress in 1817 and was erected on a man-made island entirely formed from thousands of tons of granite. It was the site of the Battle of Fort Sumter in 1861, where a thirty-four hour exchange of artillery fire…the first shots of the Civil War…let to a surrender and the occupation by Confederate troops. After the Civil War, the fort was restored by the U.S. military and occupied during the Spanish-American War (1898), World War I (1914-1918) and World War II (1939-1945). In 1948, the fort was decommissioned as a military post and turned over to the National Park Service as a National Historic Site.
Although the fort is built on an 2.4 acre island, there is much to discover including the Powder magazine (where Fort Sumter’s powder was stored) the Gorge Wall (the lightly-armed rear wall facing inland) the Battery Huger (named for War hero, Isaac Huger) and a small museum highlighting the fort’s history and items from its occupation. There are a large number and variety of cannons throughout the property and on the top level, a beautiful view of the bay and Fort Johnson, the site where the first shots of the Civil War were fired from.
An hour goes by pretty quickly and after I had captured my last photograph, the rangers were ushering us out to the waiting boat prepared to take us back to Liberty Square. As the sun was going down, so was the temperature and it was nice to take a seat inside, especially since they were now serving adult beverages!
Nothing like a good adult beverage on a sunset cruise!
That’s what is so great about a visit to Fort Sumter…it’s a two-for-one tour! You not only get a lesson on Civil War history, you get a cruise of the harbor, complete with after-hour beverages. You can even step it up and add to the theme! Have a “shot”!!!
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Standing high on a cliff above the Tejo estuary, Cristo Rei, Portugal’s answer to Rio’s Christ Statue, beseeches visitors to wend across the Tagus River, to scrutinize its enormity.
As I walked along the waterfront on one of my trips to Lisbon, I glanced across the waterway to the statue, wondering just how big it actually was?
A couple of summers ago, I visited Rio’s iconic statue and marveled at its size as I stood at its base. I had also visited the more modest Christ Cristo Blanco statue in Cuzco a few months later and the Virgin Statue in Quito. Does Cristo Rei measure up to Christ the Redeemer, its inspiration?
While traveling with a friend, who hails from Rio de Janeiro, we debated this topic. As a proud Brazilian, she truly believes that no other Christ statue equals the size of the one that tops Corcovado mountain in Rio. After googling a few dimensions, we were surprised to find that although the actual statue of Christ the Redeemer outshines Cristo Rei by 2 meters, their pedestal heights are remarkably different with the latter statue’s overtaking the former’s by 76 meters.
But looking at them both from afar, why does the one in Lisbon seem smaller than the one in Rio?
With Christ the Redeemer’s location so high on the mountain and Cristo Rei’s location on a hill far across the Tagus River, the disparity of their bearings definitely add to the mystery of how large each actually appear to be.
We decided that we would visit Cristo Rei, stand beneath the statue and see if our perception of the two was the same.
Travel to the statue is not complicated and can be reached by car, traveling across the 25 de Abril Bridge, by train through the station in Pragal and by ferry over the Tagus River, through the port of Cacilhas in Almada. In the interest of time, we decided to take Uber to the ferry port and enjoy the river crossing in the bright, sunny afternoon. Once we reached the opposite shore, we jumped on the bus which deposited us at the gates of the Sanctuary a few minutes later.
Cacilhas port lighthouse
Bus stop outside of ferry terminal, Cacilhas port
Cristo Rei, inaugurated on May 17, 1959, was erected to express gratitude to God for the country being spared the effects of World War II. Taking almost ten years to complete, the statue and has attracted thousands of visitors. Over the years, additions have been made to the grounds, including the Chapel of Our Lady of Peace and a Sanctuary with a rectory, chapel, administration and meeting halls and exhibition galleries.
As we walked through the parking premises, we made our way to the statue’s base and to the entrance facing the river. Paying our admittance, we joined the line waiting for a spot in the elevator which would take us to the viewing platform at the foot of the statue.
Exiting the elevator and climbing the stairway adjacent to the gift shop, we stepped out into the sunshine and glanced upwards.
There it was…Cristo Rei…all ninety-two feet of him!
Making our way around the top of the base, we craned our neck to get a better look at the statue designed by sculptor Francisco Franco de Sousa. Like Christ the Redeemer, the figure of Christ’s arms are extended, facing the city of Lisbon, as if to embrace the city. Standing beneath the statue, we both agreed that our impression of the statues, while in their immediate presence was similar. Even my Brazilian friend was astonished at how large this statue actually was and so similar to Christ the Redeemer!
Remaining for some time, we enjoyed the fascinating views of the city all around us while standing in the shadow of the dominant icon, faced by the bronze Ten Commandments.
Finally, we decided to see all of the other areas that the sanctuary had to offer.
Making our way down within the four arches of the pedestal (oriented in the directions of the compass rose), we visited the Chapel of Our Lady of Peace and the Pope John XXIII Hall, containing eight oil paintings created by João de Sousa Araújo. An old high cross from the Sanctuary of Christ the King is also located in the hall. The Chapel of the Confidants of the Heart of Jesus displays valuable reliquaries of Saint Margaret Mary Alacoque, Saint John Eudes, Saint Faustina Kowalska and Blessed Mary of the Divine Heart Droste zu Vischering.
Exiting the pedestal, we made our way around the structure, admiring the statues of the apostles and other pieces of religious art on the premises, including stations of the cross. Here, it is also possible to admire the sweeping views of the city across the river and access to the grounds is free if unable to gain entry into the pedestal.
So, which statue did my Brazilian friend think was more impressive? Christ the Redeemer, of course! It is one of the symbols of her country and I wouldn’t expect her to choose anything but. If you ask me? It would be close, as I was impressed by both. Christ the Redeemer, however, having always been on my bucket list and located so high above the city, I think it ekes out the win!
If anyone is visiting Lisbon and looking for an afternoon of adventure, I would definitely recommend making the short journey to Cristo Rei…one of the city’s treasures!
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Getting There: Take the commuter ferry from Cais do Sodre Station across the river to Cacilhas, from where there are buses (#101) outside the station that stop at the monument. Ferry ticket price, €1.30. Bus ticket, €1.50 purchased from driver.
Although we were anxious to get to Santorini as soon as possible, we were also curious about Greece’s ferry system. So many times while in Athens for work, I desperately wanted to head to the Port of Piraeus to catch a ferry to one of the nearby islands.
I always chickened out.
I was not sure how the port was laid out, if it would be easy to find the correct ferry or even how to purchase a ticket.
This time, we realized that we needed to try something different. We’ve traveled by plane for so long, we felt as though we needed to figure out how to travel like the locals. The bonus would be the beautiful scenery along the way!
Once we decided that our trip to Santorini was going to be on the ferry…it was time to figure it all out!
Discovering that there was more than one website offering ferry tickets, including the ferry service’s own websites, it became a matter of choosing the one which offered the best price for the class of service. Opting for Business Class tickets, we were all set. I was finally getting to go to the Greek Islands!
Now…I needed to figure out how to get to the port.
A brief discussion with my Airbnb owner gave me the confidence to take the metro. He warned of the terrible traffic near the port near departure times and since we were near the Monastiraki metro station, he explained that it was easy to take the metro straight to the port.
He was right!
Up early, we purchased our metro tickets and waited for our departing train. Twenty minutes later, we (and a LOT of other people) were exiting that same train, headed to our respective ferries.
The port was busy with arriving cars and taxis and fellow travelers pulling and carrying suitcases. We had no idea which gate our ferry was departing from and it took a bit of walking before we discovered the board with the gate assignments.
In other countries, I have taken ferries on occasion…nothing, however, had prepared me for what we would find for our trip to Santorini. Approaching the gate area, we were fascinated…this was not a ferry! It was a cruise ship!
Entering from the rear, our tickets were checked and we were directed to place our luggage in the racks in the middle of the car parking area, something I was not comfortable with, knowing that the ferry made stops at other islands before Santorini. Just exactly who was monitoring the luggage?
After heading upstairs, we were directed to our large business class seats. Noting a luggage storage rack in the front of the cabin, I immediately headed back downstairs, collected our luggage and brought it back upstairs to our location.
Making myself comfortable…leg rest up…seat back…neck pillow in place…pashmina draped around my legs…I watched the port disappear into the distance.
As I was hypnotized by the rocking of the ferry, the rolling waves, and the passing landscapes, my eyes grew heavy.
Four more hours and we will have made it to Santorini. By ferry.
And yes, it wasn’t that hard!
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Going to St. John while on St. Thomas is an absolute must!
But, how do you get there?
Yes, there is a passenger ferry that operates from St. Thomas’ Red Hook Harbor every hour. This entailed parking our car and paying the daily parking rate of $5 as well as the ferry fare for the four of us…$6.00 per person, each way, plus a luggage surcharge for carrying our cooler and beach chairs.
St. Thomas passenger ferry and terminal
After our arrival in St. John, the question remained…how would we get around?
We could walk from Cruz Bay to the nearest trail and then hike to the nearest beaches, Solomon or Honeymoon. If we chose this option, however, it would mean only bringing snorkel equipment and a towel. No cooler…no chairs.
We could rent a car…approximately $80-$100 for the day.
Or…we could hire a taxi. We knew we wanted to visit Trunk Bay, which would cost $6.00 per person, each way. We also wanted to visit other beaches, adding to the overall cost and eliminating spontaneity.
So…the grand total for taking the passenger ferry for the day would be well over $100-$150, depending on the method of transportation and number of destinations.
There had to be a better way.
We already had a car on St. Thomas…was there a way to take it to St. John?
Love City Car Ferries to the rescue!
Thankfully, we investigated this option early on in our trip. Love City Car Ferries, takes reservations for cars and trucks up to three tons and must be booked three days before your trip. The total cost for the car, its occupants and luggage is $50, plus a $3 port fee. That’s it…we drive on…we drive off.
The day of our trip, we were up early and arriving in Red Hook Harbor, following the signs to the car ferry loading apron. Directed to back into lines for organized loading onto the ferry, we realized that we were actually a bit early. After asking the attendant if the ferry we were about to back onto was Love City’s 9:00 am ferry (it was currently 8:15), we were informed that we needed to move to another line. The ferry we were in line to board was Boyson’s Inc.’s Mister B.
Moving to the first line, we watched cars, delivery vehicles and even a dump truck back onto Mister B. We definitely learned what to do and what not to do!
Loading of Boyson’s Ferry
Finally, Mister B departed and Love City’s Captain Vic pulled up to the loading apron. Being the first to back onto the ferry was a plus as we only had to watch out not to back into the ferry, not other cars. Slowly, other vehicles filled the ferry and it was time to depart.
Mister B’s Ferry, unloading before we backed on
First car on the ferry
Though my husband and children opted to stay in the car for the ride over, I climbed to the top of the wheelhouse and watched Red Hook Harbor grow smaller and the neighboring islands pass by…Great St. James, Little St. James, Dog Island and finally Steven Cay as we pulled up to the Car Ferry Dock at Enighed Pond. The trip was a mere twenty minutes.
Top of the wheel house
Arriving into St. John’s Enighed Pond
Departing the barge was a less complicated affair since all we had to do was drive forward off of the boat and make our way onto the island.
When we booked our trip, we had elected to return on a 7:00 pm ferry. Around 3:00 pm, we were getting tired from being in the sun all day and checked the ferry schedule. It appeared that there was a 4:00 pm and then a 6:15 pm departure time. Not seeing the 7:00 departure that we had booked (and was on our reservation), we were a little nervous about waiting and not making it off of the island. We all agreed that we would make our way quickly back to the car ferry dock and inquire as to whether or not we could take the early boat.
Thankfully, we did not wait until 7:00. Apparently, Love City has an agreement with Global Marine ferries and travel with the two companies is interchangeable. On this day, however, Global Marine was not operating. So, our only two options were 4:00 pm and 6:15 pm and there was no problem with our taking the early ferry.
Once again, we lined up and backed our car on to the ferry…my husband was becoming quite proficient! This time, we all stayed put inside the car and luckily for us we did…it started to rain!
A short time later, we were back in Red Hook Harbor and ready for dinner!
Although it was quite difficult to figure out the ferry situation in St. John, we are glad that this is the way we approached it. Though we were only able to contact and book with Love City Ferries, it appears that Boyson was operating regularly at the time. After numerous unsuccessful attempts to reach Boyson for their schedule and procedure to book, we decided on Love City. A bit confusing, it seems that Love City has been the only operator that has offered reliable service over the past few years.
If you decide to utilize the car barge for a trip to St. John, I would suggest taking a trip to the ferry pier prior to your trip to inquire as to the ferry schedules and operators. I understand the Boyson may be a bit cheaper, but whichever company you decide to use, be sure to ask the attendant for scheduled departure times for your return trip later in the day.
Have a great time!
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Since our next day was a travel day, we were up early and out thedoor, heading for Don Mueang airport.
Although we were only in Bangkok for two “half” nights (arrival after midnight and leaving hotel at 3:30 AM) I was sad to leave the Ibis Nana hotel. Last time I was in Bangkok, I stayed at the Mercure at the Skytrain Stadium stop. It was an extremely nice hotel that I booked thru Delta Perks, a site that offers us airline discounts with certain hotel chains. I absolutely loved this hotel and its location! This time, I decided to try another Accor hotel, the Ibis Nana. The Ibis offers clean, Scandinavian style rooms. Our price was around 30 dollars per night, more than half of the Mercure’s price. Since our stay was short, this seemed like a more reasonable choice.
What I liked most about this hotel is that there are lots of restaurants and bars in the area, so after a long day of sightseeing, you can go back to your room, freshen up and then you don’t have to go very far for a good meal or for nightlife.
Our flight from Bangkok to Surat Thani was booked with Nok Air. There are many discount airlines to choose from and most operate from Don Mueang airport which is closer to the city of Bangkok. Our flight was a steal at $67. The good thing about booking a flight that departs at 6:10 AM is that there is no traffic at that time of the morning. Our cab driver was not happy when we had him turn on the meter…I suspect that he hoped to charge us a much higher fare than the 300 baht that was showing on the meter when we arrived.
Nok Air does not allow you to carry on your rollaboards, however, they do not require you to pay to check your luggage. The excellent thing about this is that with hardly any luggage being brought on board, the boarding process takes hardly any time at all. The plane was impeccable and the bathrooms were immaculately clean. On this short flight (1 hour) the flight attendants served a small breakfast snack, did a coffee service and even sold Nok Air products. Grant it, we were not full, maybe 2/3, but they were amazingly quick and efficient.
When we arrived, our bags were quickly delivered to the baggage claim. We had booked the plane-bus-ferry option. It wasn’t long before we were loaded onto our bus and driving towards the Lomprayah ferry.
At the Lomprayah ferry terminal, we purchased the transfer option (150 baht) to take us from the arrival ferry pier to our hotel. The ferry was very nice and there was s snack bar for purchasing food, drinks and food.
After our docking in Koh Samui, we were met by the Lomprayah agents and escorted to our bus. 30 minutes later, we arrived at our hotel, Montien House.
We were told that our rooms would be another hour, so we went off to have lunch. Before long, we were checked into our rooms. I had specifically requested a room near my friend’s and facing the beach side of the property however, neither request had been met. In addition, someone had spilled something all over one of the walls and the room generally did not seem clean. I went downstairs and explained what had happened. Thankfully, they were able to move me to the room across from my friend’s room, although it wasn’t beach facing. Although I was unsure about the hotel at first, it quickly grew on me and I came to love the staff. Every day, they wanted to know my plans and when I came in, they wanted to know how my day was. The room was always cleaned very well and if there was something I needed, it was quickly taken care of. The hotel was conveniently located near many shops, restaurants and nightlife.
On my last night, I went downstairs to go to the beach to release my lucky lantern. I was alone and the front desk was occupied by one of the young men who worked at the hotel. He saw my lantern and asked if I needed help with it. I asked him to show me what to do. He explained that it was easier if there were two people. I responded that my friends were not there to help me. What he said to me, was very touching, especially since I had had such a trying day. “The staff here can help you. We are your friends too!”
Maybe it wasn’t the most luxurious hotel, but little things like that mean so much to a customer!
