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Distance can certainly skew one’s perception.
Standing high on a cliff above the Tejo estuary, Cristo Rei, Portugal’s answer to Rio’s Christ Statue, beseeches visitors to wend across the Tagus River, to scrutinize its enormity.
As I walked along the waterfront on one of my trips to Lisbon, I glanced across the waterway to the statue, wondering just how big it actually was?
A couple of summers ago, I visited Rio’s iconic statue and marveled at its size as I stood at its base. I had also visited the more modest Christ Cristo Blanco statue in Cuzco a few months later and the Virgin Statue in Quito. Does Cristo Rei measure up to Christ the Redeemer, its inspiration?
While traveling with a friend, who hails from Rio de Janeiro, we debated this topic. As a proud Brazilian, she truly believes that no other Christ statue equals the size of the one that tops Corcovado mountain in Rio. After googling a few dimensions, we were surprised to find that although the actual statue of Christ the Redeemer outshines Cristo Rei by 2 meters, their pedestal heights are remarkably different with the latter statue’s overtaking the former’s by 76 meters.
But looking at them both from afar, why does the one in Lisbon seem smaller than the one in Rio?
With Christ the Redeemer’s location so high on the mountain and Cristo Rei’s location on a hill far across the Tagus River, the disparity of their bearings definitely add to the mystery of how large each actually appear to be.
We decided that we would visit Cristo Rei, stand beneath the statue and see if our perception of the two was the same.
Travel to the statue is not complicated and can be reached by car, traveling across the 25 de Abril Bridge, by train through the station in Pragal and by ferry over the Tagus River, through the port of Cacilhas in Almada. In the interest of time, we decided to take Uber to the ferry port and enjoy the river crossing in the bright, sunny afternoon. Once we reached the opposite shore, we jumped on the bus which deposited us at the gates of the Sanctuary a few minutes later.
Cristo Rei, inaugurated on May 17, 1959, was erected to express gratitude to God for the country being spared the effects of World War II. Taking almost ten years to complete, the statue and has attracted thousands of visitors. Over the years, additions have been made to the grounds, including the Chapel of Our Lady of Peace and a Sanctuary with a rectory, chapel, administration and meeting halls and exhibition galleries.
As we walked through the parking premises, we made our way to the statue’s base and to the entrance facing the river. Paying our admittance, we joined the line waiting for a spot in the elevator which would take us to the viewing platform at the foot of the statue.
Exiting the elevator and climbing the stairway adjacent to the gift shop, we stepped out into the sunshine and glanced upwards.
There it was…Cristo Rei…all ninety-two feet of him!
Making our way around the top of the base, we craned our neck to get a better look at the statue designed by sculptor Francisco Franco de Sousa. Like Christ the Redeemer, the figure of Christ’s arms are extended, facing the city of Lisbon, as if to embrace the city. Standing beneath the statue, we both agreed that our impression of the statues, while in their immediate presence was similar. Even my Brazilian friend was astonished at how large this statue actually was and so similar to Christ the Redeemer!
Remaining for some time, we enjoyed the fascinating views of the city all around us while standing in the shadow of the dominant icon, faced by the bronze Ten Commandments.
Finally, we decided to see all of the other areas that the sanctuary had to offer.
Making our way down within the four arches of the pedestal (oriented in the directions of the compass rose), we visited the Chapel of Our Lady of Peace and the Pope John XXIII Hall, containing eight oil paintings created by João de Sousa Araújo. An old high cross from the Sanctuary of Christ the King is also located in the hall. The Chapel of the Confidants of the Heart of Jesus displays valuable reliquaries of Saint Margaret Mary Alacoque, Saint John Eudes, Saint Faustina Kowalska and Blessed Mary of the Divine Heart Droste zu Vischering.
Exiting the pedestal, we made our way around the structure, admiring the statues of the apostles and other pieces of religious art on the premises, including stations of the cross. Here, it is also possible to admire the sweeping views of the city across the river and access to the grounds is free if unable to gain entry into the pedestal.
So, which statue did my Brazilian friend think was more impressive? Christ the Redeemer, of course! It is one of the symbols of her country and I wouldn’t expect her to choose anything but. If you ask me? It would be close, as I was impressed by both. Christ the Redeemer, however, having always been on my bucket list and located so high above the city, I think it ekes out the win!
If anyone is visiting Lisbon and looking for an afternoon of adventure, I would definitely recommend making the short journey to Cristo Rei…one of the city’s treasures!
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National Sanctuary of Christ the King
- https://cristorei.pt/default.aspx?langid=2
- Address: 2800-058 Almada, Portugal
- Hours: Summer weekdays, 0930-1830, Summer weekends, 0930-1900, Winter, 0930-1830.
- Admission: Adults, €6.00, Children, €3.00
- Getting There: Take the commuter ferry from Cais do Sodre Station across the river to Cacilhas, from where there are buses (#101) outside the station that stop at the monument. Ferry ticket price, €1.30. Bus ticket, €1.50 purchased from driver.