Amsterdam’s Weteringsplantsoen is a lovely little park situated in the southwest part of the city.
On my way to a tour at the Heineken Experience, I had some time to kill. Passing this small park, I decided to take a detour through it and take some pictures of the adjacent canal and the beautiful fall foliage. Something, however, caught my eye before I made it to the canal.
Fall foliage on the Singelgracht Canal
A statue of a man laying down.
Since I could not read Dutch, I snapped a few photos and decided to do some investigation a bit later.
What I found was quite interesting.
The official name of this place, Fusilladeplaats Rozenoord, can be translated into English as “the firing squad place”.
During World War II, this rose garden was the site where German occupation forces shot and killed more than 100 Dutch civilians, many of them resistance fighters, during a four month period. While this was a widely known event, no one ever faced trail for the crimes.
Even though the events are commemorated on May 4, every year, it was decided that a memorial be erected to pay homage to those who lost their lives. This monument’s inscription reads:
Op deze plaats werden in de laatste maanden van de Tweede Wereldoorlog meer dan 100 Nederlanders door de Duitse bezetter gefusilleerd (At this place, during the last months of the Second World War, the German occupiers shot dead more than 100 Dutch people)
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Mardi Gras is a huge celebration, especially in Louisiana, but amidst the beads and floats, some people forget that Mardi Gras is the precursor to the Lenten season for the Catholic religion. Partying and feasting are the norm during the Mardi Gras season, but all that comes to an end on Ash Wednesday, the day after Fat Tuesday, when Catholics begin their abstinence for six weeks.
Having attended Catholic school, I remember being off of school for the Mardi Gras holiday, but the thing I remembered most was attending mass on Ash Wednesday with my school so that we could receive ashes on our foreheads. For the Lenten season, it was as important to us as Good Friday and Easter Sunday.
Recently, I found myself in Bogota. Since I had not been to Colombia in many years, I was excited to revisit some of the places that I had in the past and some new ones. At least one of those places was a church and since it happened to be Ash Wednesday, I was excited to see if any of the traditions in Bogota Catholicism were different than I expected.
Early in the morning, two of my friends and I decided to take an Uber to one of Bogota’s most famous natural landmarks, Monserrate. Rising more than 10,000 feet above the city center, the mountain boasts a 17th century church and shrine devoted to El Señor Caído (“The Fallen Lord”).
I recalled visiting many years ago, but I didn’t remember much except for the photo of a beautiful flower that I took there (that now hangs on my living room wall) and that we had taken a teleférico (cable car) to the top of the mountain.
Arriving at the teleférico station, we discovered that the teleférico was not in operation, only the funicular. So be it! It was either that or a long hike (almost two miles) with a steep grade! Purchasing our tickets, we took our place in line and awaiting our turn to board the railway car to the mountaintop. As we were packed like sardines, it made it easy to make friends and I practiced my Spanish while we enjoyed the scenery during the climb.
Monserrate StationMonserrate Funicular
At the end of the line, we exited the funicular and made our way along the pathway admiring the beautiful statues of the Stations of the Cross as well as the stunning views of the city below, in between the low clouds and light rain showers. On the adjacent mountain, we spied the 45-foot tall statue of the Virgin of Guadalupe and its adjacent sanctuary, which appeared to be miniscule from our vantage point. Finally, we were face to face with the Basilica Sanctuary of Monserrate which houses the statue of the fallen Lord of Monserrate, representing Jesus falling for the third time on his way to Calvary.
Stations of the Cross Pathway
Monserrate Stations of the CrossMonserrate Stations of the CrossViews of Bogota from MonserrateThe Virgin of GuadalupeMonserrateMonserrate
Monserrate
Basilica Sanctuary of Monserrate
Pausing for a moment to take a photo with the Bogota sign in front of the basilica, we then entered, realizing that Ash Wednesday mass was taking place. Walking quietly through the church, I made my way through its interior, investigating the chapels and its decorative features. At the rear of the building, in an enclosed room behind the altar, I discovered the Lord of Monserrate. It is said that this miraculous effigy of Christ has hair that grows and that when they try to lower it to the city, its weight increases, becoming an impossible task to achieve. It was difficult to get a good look as the viewing windows were small and many people were lined up, hoping to get a glimpse of the famous icon, but I did notice that hair on the statue appeared to be realistic.
Basilica Sanctuary of Monserrate
Basilica Sanctuary of Monserrate
The Lord of Monserrate
Dating back almost 500 years, the basilica is built on the mountain that was once named Cerro de Las Nieves for its frequent cloudiness. A monastery dedicated to the Virgen of Montserrat was founded in this location and a path was created for pilgrims to climb the hill. The basilica houses a chapel dedicated to this Black Madonna and while I studied it, I thought it to look familiar. After some contemplation, I realized that it was because the origins of the Virgen Morena de Monserrate are of Catalonia, Spain and I had visited the monastery of Montserrat outside of Barcelona many years ago. In fact, it was so familiar to me because I had purchased a tiny replica of this Virgin which sits on my desk in my home office!
The Virgen of Montserrat
After my investigation of the basilica was complete, I wandered around to the rear of the church to where a large craft market is located. Small stalls offered up all sorts of handmade objects, clothing items and religious souvenirs. Hoping to add to my nativity collection, I figured that this would be the best place to find a unique piece. Surprisingly, however, it took quite a bit of asking around to finally find one…and then a lot more searching to find one that met my requirements. Happy at last and package in hand, we decided to catch the funicular so that we could head back down the mountain and catch a ride to the downtown area.
Monserrate Market
The ride to Plaza de Bolivar was only about ten minutes and we were dropped off right in front of the Catedral Primada de Colombia, better known as the Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Bogota and Primate of Colombia. A lively square, standing before the basilica, it is filled with both locals and tourists, but its main occupants are pigeons! Lots and lots of pigeons!
Plaza de Bolivar Residents
The square is also surrounded by many historical buildings, including the Palacio de Justicia (Palace of Justice), Palacio Lievano (Palace Lievano), Museo Santa Clara (Santa Clara Museum), Museo Colonial (Colonial Museum) and the National Capitol among others. While we wished that we had had the time to visit everything in this area, it was the cathedral that we were most interested in, however.
Towering over Bolivar Square, the cathedral is the largest church in all of South America. The neoclassical structure has a striking façade, however, its interior, we soon found, was rather lackluster as are many of Columbia’s sanctuaries. We did take the time, however, to inspect the many paintings, sculpture and statues from the 17th and 18th century as well as the side chapels and other architectural features of the church.
Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Bogota and Primate of Colombia
Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Bogota and Primate of Colombia entrance
Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Bogota and Primate of Colombia
Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Bogota and Primate of Colombia
Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Bogota and Primate of Colombia
Noting that mass was not being conducted, we saw a line spanning the length of the cathedral down the central aisle. The three of us, all practicing Catholics, realized that the cathedral’s parishioners were receiving ashes, so we took our places and slowly made our way to the front of the line. What a special opportunity to receive ashes in the Bogota Cathedral on this day!
Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Bogota and Primate of Colombia
Lunchtime had already passed, so deciding to seek out a local restaurant, we headed down the pedestrian friendly Carrera 7. Vendors were plenty and it was fun to check out the some of the unique merchandise and watch the street performers, while seeking out Colombian cuisine. Since it was Ash Wednesday, we had to be mindful of our meat intake, but empanadas were plentiful and it was easy to order those filled with queso and dulce de leche churros for dessert!
Carrera 7Carrera 7
Our meal complete, we realized that the afternoon was almost halfway finished. We still had a bit of a drive back to our hotel and there was that pesky thing called work that we had to do, but there was one more church at the end of Carrera 7, that I wanted to visit…the Church of San Francisco.
Dating back to the 16th century, this ornate church is the oldest preserved church in Bogota. Built between 1586 and 1611, it originally was part of a complex combined with a monastery that covered two city blocks and had three two-story cloisters. Its exterior once covered in white, was stripped in recent years leaving only the white bell tower to exhibit its original appearance. Today, the only parts of the original temple that survive are the church façade, the tower and the chancel.
TheChurch of San Francisco
Somewhat intimidating when we approached, with its unassuming façade, graffiti spray painting on the front wall and trash littering the walkway and within the entryway, my colleagues looked to me as though I was a bit mad to bring them here in a city where crime is rampant. Stepping gingerly into the darkened interior, we allowed our eyes to adjust as we gained our bearings. Met with a beautiful red screen separating the inside from the gritty periphery, we peered around up the central aisle toward the high altar. A beautiful wooden roof soared above our heads and a simplistic, double nave design spread around us. The confessionals were designed in an ornate gold and red composition as were many other features, however, the chapels were decorated chiefly in gold and the Stations of the Cross were of a wooden design.
TheChurch of San Francisco
TheChurch of San Francisco
TheChurch of San FranciscoTheChurch of San Francisco
The overall presentation was extremely dark, both in brightness and composition, and I am sad to say, maybe because of its location in the downtown area, it gave me a very eerie feeling. We did not notice many other visitors and no services for Ash Wednesday were being held. I think when I suggested to bid our adieu, my companions were quite relieved to move along.
Our day was coming to a close and other considerations were coming into play, including traffic and getting some rest before flying through the night. Scratching my forehead while on the ride home, I realized that my ashes were still prominently displayed. Removing my compact from my handbag and taking a glance, I noted the dark mark semi-hidden under my bangs.
It was the beginning of Lent. Beginning in Bogota.
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Address: Carrera 2 Este No. 21-48 Paseo Bolívar, Bogota, Colombia
Admissions and Hours: Accessing Monserrate: By foot, trail open every day, except Tuesdays, 0500-1300 to go up and from 0500-1600 to go down. Free of charge. By funicular, Monday to Friday, 0630-1145 and Saturdays, 0630-1630. 23,500 COP (about $5.40 USD) round trip. On Sundays and holidays, 0530-1800. 14,000 COP (about $3.20 USD) round trip. Discounts for Senior citizens (over 62 years). By teleférico, Monday to Saturday, 1200-2200, 23,500 COP (about $5.40 USD) roundtrip. On Sundays, 0530-1800. 14,000 COP (about $3.20 USD) roundtrip. Pets allowed for an additional fee. Basilica Admission: free
Catedral Primada de Colombia
Address: Carrera 7 10 80, Bogotá, CO 111711
Hours: 0900-1700, daily (unverified)
Admission: free
Iglesia de San Francisco (Church of San Francisco)
Avenida Jimenez de Quesada #7-10, Bogota, Colombia
Traveling with my friend Cristina is always a treat…she’s one of those few people that I can plan a trip with and expect to see everything that the city has to offer. She has as much energy as I do and always has an idea for something fun! Together, we are a traveling force to be reckoned with!
Last fall, while working a trip to Milan, we decided that we should take a day trip to a neighboring city. Scouring the map, we looked for cities that were an hour or an hour and a half away and that offered numerous sites and a city center with easy access to the train station.
Stumbling upon a cool little video about the city of Lodi, we decided that this would be our destination. With only a thirty-minute train ride (a bonus!), a beautiful Piazza and plenty of churches, it looked like there would be plenty to keep us occupied that afternoon.
Heading to Milan’s Centrale Station, we hopped on a train and struck up conversation with a young woman heading toward Bologna. She had been to Lodi and insisted that we would enjoy our excursion, especially since it was one of those no-cloud-in-the-sky warm fall afternoons.
Thirty minutes later, bidding our new friend Arrivederci, we jumped off the train and made our way toward the city center. Spying some unique architecture and passing through Passeggio Federico I Park and its many monuments, we happened upon the Porta Cremona, a monumental gate which also pays tribute to the fallen of the Great War fought in Lodi, Italy.
Passeggio Federico I Park
Porta Cremona
Porta Cremona
Gazing wistfully at the locked Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, we continued on knowing that there was much that awaited us only a few blocks away.
Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie
Heading north, we chatted as we passed numerous churches, intriguing alleyways and interesting art and architecture. Reaching the Napoleon Bonaparte bridge, which spans the Adda river, we stood on its pedestrian walkway gazing out at its muddy waters and the beautiful villas lining its banks. This bridge played an important role in the Battle of Lodi, during the French Revolutionary War, on May 10, 1796, when the French forces, under Napoleon’s rule, went head-to-head with Austrian forces, led by Karl Philipp Sebottendorf. While Napoleon was successful in this campaign, it was not a decisive battle, but one that led Napoleon to believe that he was superior to other generals and destined to achieve great things. A couple blocks from the river we found an interesting statue of Napoleon Bonaparte and a commemorative plaque.
Sights in LodiNapoleon Bonaparte bridge, spanning the Adda river
As we continued our walk, we discovered a quaint little courtyard filled with plates decorating the walls. Not sure if it was attached to an artist’s studio, it was fun looking at all the displays. There were lots of little shops and cafes along the way, many closed for a few hours in the afternoon, but the best one was Gelateria Umberto. Who can resist a couple of scoops of gelato in the afternoon? Not me!
Shops of Lodi
Gelato snack!
San Felippo Neri Church
Archway over Corso Umberto I
Finally, we made it to the Piazza della Vittoria (Victory Square), where the Lodi Cathedral (Duomo) takes the center stage.
Lodi Cathedral
Founded in 1158, the cathedral was completed in two phases, the second, being carried on from 1170 and the façade being completed in 1284. The brick entrance that faces the Piazza is Gothic in style, however, the overall building is Romanesque with a massive bell tower which was left unfinished.
Lodi Cathedral Entrance
As we entered the massive church, the largest in northern Italy and seat of the Bishop of Lodi, we were amazed with how much there was to see within its walls. Looking down the nave toward the altar, there were two staircases on either side. At the back of the church there were multiple tombs and along each wall, multiple side chapels, the most impressive being a simple niche containing a 15th century, full-size wooden depiction of Christ, his disciples and his blessed mother, Mary. The church is also connected on the left to the Bishop’s Palace and a court which is the remaining part of a cloister dating back to 1484.
Lodi Cathedral
Lodi CathedralLodi CathedralLodi Cathedral
Lodi Cathedral
Lodi CathedralLodi Cathedral
Up the right-hand staircase, we found the entrance to the crypt, which features a 12th century bas-relief and is the oldest section of the cathedral. In the center of the crypt is an altar dating back to 1856, which houses the remains of Saint Bassianus in a beautifully bedecked silver case. On the left-hand side of the high altar is the altar of Saint Alberto Quadrelli, Bishop of Lodi from 1168 to 1173.
Bishop’s Palace
Court remains of 15th century cloister
Once our explorations of the cathedral were complete, we headed back into the Piazza, formerly known as the Piazza Maggiore until 1924. The town hall is located here as well as the Vistarini Palace, one of the most beautiful in the city. Porticos which protect cafe tables from the sun and the elements, line the edges of the square and it is quite colorful and scenic. It is definitely the heart of the city today where the residents meet for conversation, children play games and the local market is held on Tuesdays and Thursdays in contrast to the fairs, festivals and executions which took place during Medieval times. As countless bishops have traversed the square over time, it even saw the arrival of Pope John Paul II in 1992.
Piazza della Vittoria
Piazza della Vittoria
Vistarini Palace
Spying another tall bell tower down one of the streets branching off of the Piazza, we set off on foot attempting to find what lay beneath. While the church we found was closed, our curiosity led us to an even greater discovery, Il Templo dell’Incoronata.
Chiesa di Santa Maria del SoleSights in LodiSights in LodiTempio delle Incoronata
At the end of the 15th century, a brothel with a painting of an image of the Virgin Mary was located in the area known today as via Incoronata. It is said that in September of 1487, the image of the Virgin Mary wept and called on those present to build a temple dedicated to her on that site…Tempio delle Incoronata or the Temple of the Crowned.
Tempio delle IncoronataEntrance
Tempio delle Incoronata(Rear View)
With the assistance of all citizens of Lodi, the Temple of the City was erected and became one of the most beautiful buildings of Renaissance Lombardy. Started in 1488 by Giovanni Battagio, a pupil of Bramante, it was completed in 1503, by Lorenzo Maggi, and a portico was added in the late 15th century and the loggia in 1882. It was through two small doors in the portico that we entered, only because we were being nosy when we saw other tourists exit. Walking a short distance thru a small, dark hallway, our inquisitiveness was rewarded with one of the most spectacular church interiors that we had both ever laid eyes on.
Tempio delle IncoronataTempio delle IncoronataTempio delle IncoronataTempio delle Incoronata
The octagonal space was surrounded by arches on the lower level, an altar and an octagonally domed ceiling all highlighted by copious amounts of gilt. Every space not covered in gold was decorated with paintings, most completed by three generations of the Piazza family, who were founding the most prestigious painting school in Italy. It was almost indescribable! The only disappointing part was that we were not there on Sunday when the underground space below the monumental sacristy is open to the public. In this museum space, there are three different rooms housing rare and unique works of sacred art and objects attesting to the importance of the sanctuary.
Tempio delle IncoronataTempio delle Incoronata
Giddy with excitement, we headed back out into the city, taking a roundabout route back to the train station. Spotting the Church of San Lorenzo, we ducked inside, perhaps to say a few prayers for our expeditious return to Milan since we were hearing rumblings of a train strike.
Church of San Lorenzo
The city’s oldest church, after the cathedral, was built in the 12th and 13th centuries. A typical Romanesque-style church, we noticed an image of Saint Lorenzo, above the altar, to whom the church is dedicated. There were several works of art within the church and beautiful architectural details including the apse above the choir with 16th century stucco adornments by Abbondio da Ascona and a fresco of a Resurrected Christ by Callisto Piazza.
Church of San LorenzoChurch of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Glancing at our watches, we noted the time and set off once again, finding ourselves in the Piazza di Castello. The Visconti Castle spread out before us, including the Torrione di Lodi (Tower of Lodi). The castle was founded in the 12th century by a member of the Visconti family, the Lord and Dukes of Milan who in the 13th and 14th centuries took possession of and then rebuilt the original fortification. In 1456, Francesco Sforza added a round tower to the northern corner of the castle which eventually (20th century) was converted to a water tower. It has since become a landmark of Lodi greeting those who arrive into the city. Today, the castle is the seat of the Questura of Lodi, the local office of the Italian Ministry of the Interior. As we studied the exterior of the castle, we realized that we would have liked to have seen more of it, however, it is not open to the public and even if it had been, we had that train to catch!
Piazza di Castello
Visconti Castle and Torrione di Lodi (Tower of Lodi)
Walking quickly, we headed to the train station. Catching sight of the pink-hued building with its statue dedicated to Amatori Wasken Lodi, the city’s roller hockey team(yes, really…), and the time on the station’s clock, we knew that we had made it in time to get back to Milan for our dinner reservation!
Lodi Train Station and statue dedicated to Amatori Wasken Lodi
While Lodi had not been on our radar as one of the Italian cities we wanted to visit initially, we were so glad that we had found that video prior to our trip which was the inspiration for a wonderful day. Being so close to Milan was a bonus, but the biggest reward was the multitude of attractions that the city has to offer and getting to share it with my friend, Cristina!
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When I am traveling, if there is a religious shrine, graveyard or church, I will find it.
It’s even easier if it’s across the street from my hotel!
When I arrived in St. Augustine, the weather was less than optimum. Foggy and rainy, it just wasn’t the way I wanted to start my trip. As the day wore on, however, there was some improvement.
As I walked out of my hotel, I could see the top of an extremely large cross amidst the fog in the distance; the Mission Nombre de Dios (Name of God) and the Shrine of Our Lady de La Leche. Though I really wanted to start my explorations of this historic mission, I decided to temporarily put it on hold, praying for a nicer day.
The next morning, it was still a bit foggy but much better than the previous day. Crossing San Marco Avenue, I entered the gates and headed to the far end of the property to where the immense cross soars over the waters of the Matanzas River. The Great Cross, a 208-foot-high structure constructed of stainless steel, was built in 1965 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the first parish Catholic Mass and is fronted by an 11-foot statue which depicts Father Francisco Lopez de Mendoza, the first parish priest of St. Augustine.
In 1565, General Don Pedro Menendez de Aviles was sent by Spain to drive out the French Huguenots and establish the oldest permanent European settlement in what is now the United States. Father Mendoza, the chaplain of Menendez’ ship, offered a Mass of Thanksgiving on September 8, 1565, the day the Spanish arrived, with a roughly constructed altar and observed by the native Timucuans. Following mass, Pedro Menendez hosted a feast for his companions and the natives, an act that many describe as being the first Thanksgiving, contrary to what we have been taught. Today, on the site of the original altar, you will spot a newer recreation.
Dating back to the establishment of our great nation, these grounds are often described as America’s Most Sacred Acre. The Shrine is the oldest Marian Shrine in the United States and was recently elevated to a National Shrine by the U.S. Conference of Catholic Bishops.
I moved slowly, relishing in the serenity of the area and walked the well-maintained paths and walkways of the mission grounds. Passing the modest cemetery, I made my way to the small chapel. A beautiful vine-covered, stone and masonry sanctuary, it was built in 1967 by St. Augustine Governor Hita Y Salazar and housed an exquisitely detailed carved statue of Mary nursing the baby Jesus. It was the first devotion to Mary in the United States and was brought from Spain in the early 1600s. This chapel was bombed by the Spanish troops in 1728, during a battle with British soldiers who were attempting the seizure of St. Augustine, rebuilt in 1875 and restored after an especially turbulent storm season in 1914.
Other items of interest are the gravesites of six of the Sisters of St. Joseph who came to St. Augustine to teach the liberated slaves, the Stations of the Cross, an unknown formation (most likely the base for a religious monument), a bell tower, and statues of St. Francis of Assisi and St. Joseph.
After my exploration of the grounds was complete, I headed across the bridge to the front of the property. Finding the museum still closed, I ventured into the larger shrine church. Housing a replica of the original statue, I found the church to be quaint, yet modern, with its interestingly arranged colorful stained-glass windows. In the front of the church, a small room, devoted to Our Lady of Fatima, offers a modest place of prayer.
Finally, I made my way back to the now open Gift Shop/Museum and began making my way through the museum. The woman working behind the desk came and joined me and gave me a brief overview of the items in the small gallery.
Items of interest include an interesting diorama of the celebration of the first mass, important documents including a letter written by Pedro Menendez de Aviles, dated October 15, 1565, liturgical vestments and a statue of St. Francis Borgia. The most important artifact, however, is the original outer coffin in which Pedro Menedez de Aviles was buried. The coffin, encased and protected by glass, was presented to the Mission by the city of Aviles, where the remains of Menendez are still interred.
If I had had more time, I would have liked to have returned for mass at noon, however, since there were so many other places to visit within the city, I had to be content to offer up some early prayers and continue on my way. Stepping out of the museum, I realized that the fog had burned off and the sun was now shining brightly. Yes, there were other things I needed to see that day, however, I took one last stroll across the mission’s lake for another glimpse at Father Mendoza and the Great Cross.
Truly one of the most historic and meaningful temples that I have ever visited in the United States and possibly the world, it is recommended that all visitors to St. Augustine take some time to visit this holy site.
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Shrine of Our Lady of La Leche and Mission Nombre de Dios
In 1876, outlaws, gamblers and gunslingers like Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane arrived in Deadwood in search of gold and a wild time in the wild, wild west! Coming across a gulch full of dead trees and an abundance of gold, it is where they made their life and where they subsequently met their death.
Today, Deadwood is a place where visitors still flock to make their fortune in the casinos, but also to experience the countless activities and attractions that can be found in this small city.
Deadwood was not on my radar when I arrived in South Dakota. In fact, the only time I had ever really heard the name was as the title of an HBO American Western television series that aired from 2004-2006. When seeking ideas from others on things to do, the usual attractions came up, but so did Deadwood. Doing a quick search, I discovered many exciting things but I knew I would have to be selective as my time would be limited.
Parking at the Visitor’s Center, I ventured inside hoping to get some maps and brochures. Instead, I received some wonderful information from the lady who worked there. The most valuable being that Mount Moriah Cemetery was still open.
Having just driven there a few minutes earlier, I had found the gates closed and assumed that it, along with many other attractions, was closed for the season. Discovering that I could park and enter the side path next to the closed gates, I headed back in that direction.
This final resting place of western legends, murderers, madams and pillars of Deadwood’s early economic development is built on a hill overlooking the city. Walking along the paved paths in the late afternoon light, I quickly found the gravesites of Wild Bill and Calamity Jane. The cemetery is laid out in terraces, on multiple hillsides and is fairly easy to navigate. The most heartbreaking section, however, is toward the rear where there are many small headstones of children who died of the smallpox, scarlet fever and diphtheria epidemics from 1878 to 1880.
Also at the rear of the graveyard is a beautiful bird’s eye view of Deadwood Gulch. The American flag that flies at this point is never lowered to honor all veterans who have served our country. Another section near this area is Potter’s Field where there are many unclaimed and unknown dead. Keep an eye out amongst the trees for the numerous deer that like to hang out in the cemetery.
A visit to the cemetery should take about forty-five minutes to an hour. During the high season when the Mount Moriah Cemetery Visitor Center is open, there is a fifteen minute video and information about the cemetery history, native and introduced plant species, cemetery symbolism and death statistics within Deadwood from 1875 to 1900.
Driving back towards town, I knew that it was nearing the closing hour for many of the museums and shops. I decided to secure parking at the Visitor’s Center and take a walk through the picturesque downtown, a National Historic Landmark.
Starting at the southwest part of Main Street, I made my way northward, meandering past numerous shops, hotels, casinos, restaurants and bars all residing in well preserved Gold Rush-era architecture. My favorite discoveries were the amazing chainsaw art at Dahl’s and in front of the Four Aces Casino where I found the city’s statue of Wild Bill Hickok. After hanging out with Will Bill for a few moments, I wandered back up Main Street, enjoying the ambiance of the twilight and the awakening of the Deadwood night.
The idea of staying into the evening and finding a nice place to enjoy dinner and drinks was extremely appealing, however, with almost an hour’s drive ahead of me, I decided to head home and see what cool nightlife I could find in Rapid City’s downtown.
If you are visiting South Dakota, a trip to Deadwood should warrant more than an afternoon, since there is so much to experience. The Deadwood Brothel, The Broken Boot Gold Mine, The Days of ’76 Museum, Mount Moriah Cemetery, a little bit of gambling and much more…I was short of time, but you shouldn’t be!
My mild time could be your wild time! Make it happen!
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
There was still plenty of daylight and most attractions in Cuba did not close for a little while. I needed a plan of action that might include a frosty beverage!
Grabbing a seat on a rustic bench, I took a second to regroup.
Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio near the Revolution Museum caught my eye. I had just been near there and it meant a little backtracking, but there were many restaurants just around the corner and it would be nice to have a seat and something to drink.
Though the church was not open, I discovered that it sat on a pretty, yet tiny, colonial square, Plazuela de Santo Ángel. A lovely bronze statue of a woman holding court in front of the church captured my attention. She was dressed in vintage attire, holding a fan and appeared to have just left the church and was going to do her business in Old Havana.
Although there is a placard on the church wall which tells visitors about this woman, Cecilia Valdes, I had to wait until later to decipher who she was as it was written in Spanish. What I later learned was that this woman is the title heroine of a popular 19th century book which had a scene set at this location. The book has inspired operas, literary reiterations and a feature film and has been considered one of the most important novels detailing life in 19th century Cuba. You can also take note of the bust on the nearby wall of Cirilo Villaverde, the Cuban poet, novelist, journalist and freedom fighter. He is known especially for one great literary piece of work. Yes…the novel, Cecilia Valdes!
As I made my way away from the square, I was intrigued with the area. There were captivating outdoor cafes, fun souvenir shops and colorful fans hanging above the street. It was a beautiful afternoon and it was nice to take a seat under one of the large umbrellas and enjoy a refreshing cerveza!
Once again, I continued my explorations and there was a great detail to take in; small, beautifully crafted tiles on buildings, artists putting the finishing touches on their masterpieces, bits of grafitti, a statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes and city wall ruins in the Parque Cespedes La Maestranza and the Police Headquarters situated in a old fortress, were just a few of the treasures that I encountered along the way.
Music playing in the distance caught my ear and I followed the tune. Finding myself in the Plaza de la Catedral, a known locale of countless street performers, I stared up at the profound Havana Cathedral, also known as the Catedral de San Cristobal. One of the eleven cathedrals on the island, it serves as the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese. Built between 1748 and 1777, it was consecrated in 1782.
The Baroque architectural style is quite commanding as you stand before the cathedral in the plaza and if your eye is quite discerning, you may notice that the two bell towers are of unequal size and height. Approaching the facade, I noticed that there were fossilized marine fauna and flora in the stone, quickly realizing that the Cathedral is constructed from coral. It is quite beautiful and I could not wait to see what its interior held, especially knowing that it was designed by Italian architect Francesco Borromini.
The interior is decorated in the neoclassical style and has a central nave, two side aisles, eight side chapels and is in the form of a Latin cross. Though my initial impression of the interior was that it was stunning, with its palatial columns and soaring vaulted ceilings, I realized that it was more of an understated beauty. I have seen my share of opulent religious building throughout the world and this one was not of that class. It was, however, welcoming and offered many sculptures, paintings and frescoes throughout its interior. Some of these paintings and frescoes are by masters Peter Paul Rubens and Bartolome Esteban Murillo. Other standouts are a statue of Apolinar Serrano, Spanish bishop of Havana, who is buried in the Cathedral, a sculpture of Saint Christopher, the Patron Saint of Havana, three fading frescoes by Giuseppe Perovani above the altar, a canvas of the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, Patroness of the Cathedral, and on the altar, sculptures and goldsmith works made in Rome during the first half of the 19th century.
The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Christopher and between 1796 and 1898, the remains of Christopher Columbus were kept in the Altar of the Gospel before being taken to the Seville Cathedral in Spain after the Cuban War of Independence.
Finding the side door open, I ventured out and discovered access to the right belltower. I suspected that someone is usually stationed at the entrance to collect an admittance fee, however, no one was present. Making my way up each level of the campanile, I had bird’s eye views of each of the mighty carillons as well as panoramas of the plaza below and even a view across the river of the Christ of Havana. A small gate was unlocked and I discovered that it led onto a portion of the roof. Since there was no one to tell me that I was not allowed and no signs, I ventured to the area and was rewarded with close glimpses of the tiled roof and the spectacular flying buttresses.
After my visit to the Cathedral was complete, I headed back out into the Plaza de la Catedral. Musicians were performing at the El Patio restaurant and locals and visitors were dancing in the square. There were gaily dressed Cuban women, seated at tables and telling fortunes and a general sense of celebration. Walking down the Empedrado, I witnessed many artists along the thoroughfare and older women holding tight between their teeth, one of the things Cuba is known for. It seems that they have learned that tourists love the photo opportunity to pose with a cigar smoking old lady! Here, I also found La Bodeguita del Medio, the famous bar which lays claim to being the birthplace of the Mojito cocktail, prepared in the establishment since its opening in 1942. Though I would have loved to go inside, the line was fairly long and I really would have preferred to come back in the evening for a proper drink.
Cutting back across the Plaza de la Catedral, my next destination was the Plaza de Armas, Havana’s oldest square. Originally known as Plaza de Iglesia for a church that stood on the site, it was developed in the 1520s. Its current name was adopted in the late 16th century, when the governor used the site to conduct military exercises.
Today, the square is centered with a marble statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes and bounded by some important buildings which include the 18th century Palacio de Los Condes de Santovenia (now known as the Hotel Santa Isabel), El Templete, the Public Library, the Museum of Natural History, the Palacio del Segundo Cabo, the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales and the Castillo de la Real Fuerza.
Museum of Natural History
Hoping to be able to visit the Castillo de la Real Fuerza before closing time, I raced around the property to find the entrance. Luckily, I was allowed inside and began my exploration of the oldest Spanish stone fortress in the Western Hemisphere.
Castillo de la Real Fuerza
Constructed between 1555 and 1577, to safeguard against pirate attacks, it later became the official residence of the Governor of Havana and served as Cuba’s National Archive and National Library. After the Revolution, it housed government offices and a museum of arms. Today, the Castillo de la Real Fuerza, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982, serves as a Museum of Ceramics and a Maritime Museum.
After making my way through the lower level and discovering the maritime artifacts located there, I ventured to the second level which houses the bulk of the Maritime Museum and includes the Naval Model-Making Salon and the Underwater Archeology Warehouse. The most spectacular part of the second level, however, is the watchtower which was added in 1634 and is now a symbol of the city. This watchtower is adorned with a bronze statuette, a replica of La Giraldilla of the Seville Cathedral and is used as a weather vane. Though I originally had no knowledge of this watchtower, it was the ladies keeping watch over the museum salons who wanted me to see what made the castle special, that unlocked the door and let me out on the balcony to see it up close!
Upon my departure from the castle, I headed back to the Plaza de Armas. As I entered the gates of El Templete, I was taken aback by the neoclassical architecture, not very common in Havana. The small Greco-Roman temple with Doric columns, dates back to 1827, and was erected in the place where it was believed that the Villa de San Cristobal de la Habana was founded in 1519. Though the workers were in the process of closing the premises for the day, they allowed me to take a quick peek to see the three valuable paintings by French painter Juan Bautista Vermey, which depict the first mass, the first council and the blessing of the Templete on its inauguration.
El Templete
Inside the courtyard, you can spy the Column of Cajigal which honors the Spanish governor in charge of its construction, an image of the Virgin of Pilar, patroness of Spanish sailors (atop the column), and a marble bust of Governor Don Hernando de Soto, the first governor of the town of San Cristobal de La Habana. The ceiba tree, a sacred symbol in various religions, is one of many that has stood on the site. The latest has existed since 1960 and on November 16, residents come to the tree after midnight, circle it three times and throw a coin to its roots and make a wish.
El Templete
Crossing the plaza, I stepped into the courtyard of the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales, the former offical residence of the governors of Havana. Dating back to the late 1700’s, it is home to the Museum of the City of Havana and houses exhibitions of art and historical artifacts. Though I would have loved to see the interior and its original colonial decor, the palace was closing for the day.
Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales
Though I was disappointed in not having had the opportunity to visit the palace, I stepped back into the street, which I discovered was paved with wooden blocks. This was the first time I had ever seen this and believe me, it was pretty cool!
Walking past the plaza, I made my way past the Mezquita Addallah and Parque Guayasamin toward the beautiful Old Town Square. Though there are many squares and plazas throughout the city, this one was my favorite. Laid out in 1559, this square offers buildings in many different architectural styles, as well as a fountain and unique sculpture. It was here that I finally encountered the Town Dogs.
Addallah MosqueParque Guayasamin
I learned about the Town Dogs during my tour that morning but even though I had kept a keen eye out, I had not encountered any of them. The Town Dogs are designated as such by the mayor, protected and cared for by the city, each being vaccinated and sterilized. They wear a tag bearing their names and addresses and are free to roam on their own. Lounging on the steps of the Camera Obscura, I found Nina and P. Oblivious to the fact that I was excited to see them, neither were extremely cooperative about giving me a photogenic look…probably because they also had had a long day and were as tired as I was!
Old Town Square
Spying a restaurant balcony with seating across the square, I made a beeline in that general direction. The Don Eduardo Alegre Bar and Restaurant was the perfect way to relax and enjoy the amazing view below, the perfect place to enjoy a cold beer and the perfect way to end my day!
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Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio
Address: Calle Compostela y Cuarteles Loma del Ángel, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0700-1900, daily
Admission: free
Catedral de San Cristobal
Address: Calle Empedrado 156 , La Habana Vieja, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0930-1700, Sunday 1030-1200, Sunday Mass at 0900.
Admission: free. Tower access, $1 CUC ($1 US)
Castello de la Real Fuerza
Address: Plaza de Armas e/Calle O’Reilly y Av. del Puerto Calle Desamparado/San Pedro, Havana Cuba
The port city of New Bedford, Massachusetts, has been the home of countless fisherman for thousands of years.
While I love sailing in and out of this port when traveling to Cuttyhunk Island, I haven’t had much of an opportunity to see what makes up the city itself.
Known as the “The Whaling City” due to its importance in the whaling industry during the nineteenth century, there is a wonderful museum which focuses on the history of the trade. Though I would have loved to have visited this institution, the Covid restrictions had closed it down until further notice.
I wasn’t in town for long…only as long as it took to get groceries and board our boat which was to take us to Cuttyhunk. As I stood guard over our belongings at the New Bedord State Pier, my friends brought over load after load destined for our stay on the island. My attention wandered from the multitude of fishing boats lining the harbor to the occasional passerby. As I finally took a turn carrying one of the many bags from the car, I noticed a statue on the edge of the pier. Taking a quick walk over, I noted the plaque set into the concrete.
The statue, which honors the fishermen of the Port of New Bedford, was installed in this spot on June 30, 2016 and designed by sculptor Erik Durant. The installation depicts the scene of a fishing family consisting of a mother standing near her fisherman husband, who is down on one knee. He holds his daughter in his lap, accepting her hugs, and has his hand on the shoulder of his son, who holds a crew cap.
The monument is quite moving and it is evident that it is one that most families of the area can relate to. With a little research, I learned that the passing of the cap to the son signifies the continuation of the fishing tradition and the clinging daughter represents the regret of the separation that the family has when the father is away. The woman stands behind the father and the children, representing those who stay behind while the fisherman are at sea.
So, I didn’t get to take a quick tour of the whaling museum, however, I stumbled upon something more significant.
One that represents the fishermen of both the past and present.
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The Fisherman’s Monument
Address: 49 State Pier, New Bedford, Massachusetts, 02740
Remus and Romulus were born to Rhea Silvia (the daughter of a king) and the war god, Mars. There were ordered to be drowned in the Tiber River, but the trough in which they were placed floated down the river and came to rest at the site which would later become Rome. Finishing its journey at a sacred fig tree, the Ficus ruminalis, a she-wolf and a woodpecker, both revered by Mars, suckled and fed them until they were found.
After my visit to Segovia recently, I learned something. On my next visit to Rome, there is a place that I need to visit.
The Capitoline Museums.
Sure, I always enjoy the historical artifacts displayed in museums, especially in Rome, but there is one thing in particular that I want to see.
The famous bronze statue of the Capitoline Wolf with Romulus and Remus beneath her belly.
The Capitoline Wolf represents the origins of Rome and depicts the goddess Luperca suckling Romulus and Remus. The original was placed in the Palazzo dei Conservatori on the Campidoglio in Rome in 1471 but was then later moved to the Capitoline Museums. Today, a copy is situated on a pillar at the northern corner of the Palazzo Senatorio.
Crazy thing is that as many times as I have been to Rome, I was never aware that this statue existed. As I stepped off of the bus in Segovia, however, after the amazing aqueduct, a copy of this statue was one of the first things I saw.
Interesting enough, the original statue, located in Rome, was favored by Benito Mussolini, the Italian dictator. Upon his orders, duplicates were made and distributed to cities throughout the world, including Argentina, Austrailia, Belgium, Bolivia, Brazil, Canada, Chile, China, France, Guatemala, Hungary, Italy, Japan, Libya, Moldova, New Zealand, Norway, Romania, Sweden, Switzerland, Tajikistan, United Kingdom, United States, Uruguay and yes…Spain.
The statues were dedicated to the city of Segovia in 1974 as well as Merida, and Tarragona and today is a popular landmark…one of the first things visitors to the city see.
So don’t miss it. See it in Segovia. See it in Rome. See it in Paris. See it in Bucharest. See it…well…in many place, thanks to Mussolini.
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Statue of Remus and Romulus
Address: Plaza del Azoguejo 1, 40001 Segovia Spain
There is a statue on Prague’s Charles Bridge of Saint Johannes van Nepomuk (St. John of Nepomuk) that I have walked past many times and often rubbed the plaque at the bottom for good luck.
Everyone needs a little luck and I wouldn’t want the bridge to crumble beneath my feet, plunging me to my death into the Vltava River, right?
It is widely known that Saint Johannes van Nepomuk, a priest, was drowned in the Vltava River on the orders of Wenceslaus IV, King of the Romans and King of Bohemia. He is considered the first martyr and a protector from floods and drowning.
What I was not aware was that there are other statues of Saint Johannes van Nepomuk throughout the world including,
Monument on Cathedral Island, at the Church of the Holy Cross, Wroclaw, Poland
St. John of Nepomuk Statue in Buchach, Ukraine
Statue of St. John of Nepomuk in Divina, Slovakia
Saint Nepomuk on the Schwarzen Bridge in Loningen, Germany
Statue of St. John of Nepomuk in churchyard of the cathedral, Passau, Germany
Statue of St. John of Nepomuk in churchyard of the cathedral, Passau, Germany
Roadside figure of St. John of Nepomuk, Buchach, Ukraine
Statue on bridge of St. John Nepomuk, Wurzburg, Bavaria, Germany
When I had planned our route through Bruges, I had noticed a monument marked on my Google map as a point of interest on the Wollestraat Bridge. We had stopped to take a couple of pictures of the statue, dodging a tour guide and their group, but continued on our journey that day. It wasn’t until later when someone asked if we had seen the famous statue on the bridge that I realized it was an important landmark in Bruges.
This statue of the Saint was designed by Flemish sculptor Pieter Pepers in 1767 and appears, like most others, with a halo of five stars, which commemorate the stars that hovered over the Vltava River on the night of his murder and which are said to symbolize the five letters of the Latin word “tacet” which means silent. He is adorned in priestly robes and carries a large crucifix to which he has set his gaze upon.
What we learned was that the original statue was replaced in 1811.
Why?
It was thrown in to the Dyver Canal in 1795!
Seems that Saint Nepomuk can’t stay off of bridges or out of the river!
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With a location near the North Sea, how could you not expect to get the freshest seafood in Bruges?
The Vismarkt, also known as the Fish Market, is centrally located near Burg Square and is the place to purchase the freshest fish and seafood in the city. The current location, dating back to 1821, was erected following the townspeople’s request to move it from Market Square, where the smell was overwhelming. The building was constructed, per Napoleon’s order to the city mayor to modernize public facilities, and still remains in excellent condition.
Though it would have been nice to see the market in action, we visited on a Monday, one of the two days the market is closed. The covered arcade usually bustles with fishmongers hawking their catch and sometimes artists and artisans displaying their creations. If you have to pick a day to visit, however, Friday nights, during summer, offer live concerts and open-air tapas bars with fish based snacks.
For those interested in the history of the city and hoping to get something for dinner, combine it with a walk along the scenic canal and a photo op with the bust of former mayor Frank Van Acker.
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