Tag: St. Augustine

The Architecture of St. Augustine

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Many worldwide cities have their own style of architecture that sets them apart.  You know what I mean…when you look at a photo, you can say “I recognize that place”.  

While St.  Augustine doesn’t entirely have one distinct look per se, although many of Henry Flagler’s creations appear similar, it definitely has a some of the oldest buildings and most historic buildings in the continental United States.  It has a classic and picturesque look with many styles from different eras…Spanish Colonial, Spanish Renaissance Revival, Moorish, Neoclassical, Queen Anne, Second Renaissance Revival, Vernacular.  It’s residences, churches and businesses are not overshadowed by skyscrapers and the city has enforced building codes to preserve the periods of architecture throughout the area. 

Many people opt to take a trolley tour through the city, jumping off at many of the attractions and landmarks.  This covers many historical edifices, however, when traveling by foot, you will encounter so much more some hidden away on mossy tree-lined streets.  As I hoofed it through the city, I was amazed at the number of historical markers describing past and present buildings as well as other important events.  I love history and this further reinforced what an amazing and rich place St. Augustine is!

Here’s a few to look out for:

The Governor’s House.  Located on the Plaza de la Constitution, this building dates back to 1598 and has been home to several government offices.  Today it operates as a museum and houses exhibits in the main lobby which highlights the city’s history. 

Spanish Dragoon Barracks.  The two-story coquina shingled roof structure was erected on the site of another current building.  The building housed the barracks for the Spanish Dragoon’s but was razed in 1822.  Today a memorial plaque stands on the site. 

Pena-Peck House.  The Pena-Peck House now operates as a Historic Museum.  Built in 1750, the house is a fabulous example of the meshing of three distinct styles, First Spanish, Territorial and British, thereby making it larger than many of its neighbors. The structure also operates as The Woman’s Exchange carrying unique works of art, fashion and home decor and is a much sought-after wedding venue.

Dr. Peck House.  Dating back to 1750, this house served as the home of the Royal Treasurer and later, the Governor.

Tovar House and Gonzalez-Alvarez House.  Together, these two houses comprise the Oldest House Museum Complex with the Tovar House taking the prize for the city’s Oldest House.  Located on St. Francis Street, these structures are on the Old Town Trolley tour (Stop #16) and open to the public.  Dating back to the 1700s, these two homes have a rich history and have been occupied by many over the years…the living and some say the “dead”.  Reports of a shadowy male figure, strange lights and moving objects attract those not only interested in the buildings’ historical status!

St. Francis Barracks.  Once part of a Franciscan Chapel, this building housed the British Military from 1763-1783, the Spanish from 1783-1821 and then the United States.  Today, the barracks and military reservation house the Headquarters of the Military Department of the State of Florida and the Headquarters of the National Guard.

St. Augustine Visitor Information Center.  While the building itself is a new construction, I beg you to stop by and check out the Old Spanish Trail Zero Milestone on the center’s grounds as well as Fuente de Los Canos de San Francisco.  The Old Spanish Trail was opened in 1929 and was constructed to provide a continuous highway route from Florida to California and its name pays homage Spanish heritage and missions of the southwest and the south.  Nearby, the set of masks that decorate the fountain was gifted to St. Augustine by the City of Aviles, the birthplace of  Pedro Melendez, St. Augustine’s founder.  They are reproductions of the six faces that serve as waterspouts for the municipal fountain in the San Francisco neighborhood of Aviles.  Also, out the lovely clock near the Visitor’s Center parking garage.

Water Wheel at Mill Top Tavern.  The working water wheel is a 19th century grist mill driven by a well at the bottom of the wheel pumped to drive the wheel.  Quite the unexpected piece of equipment as you venture into this little plaza…worth a look-see or an outdoor meal nearby to watch it work its magic.

The Salcedo House.  On this site stands the former home of Jorge Biassou, the nation’s first black general in 1796.  Biassou was one of the original leaders of the slave uprising in Haiti and for his service to the Spanish against the French, he became a Spanish General and Florida’s second highest paid official.

Ximenez- Fatio House. Built in 1798 for use as a general store, tavern and family home.  Later in operated as a boarding house to provide lodging for fortis earliest tourists.  Today the house operates as a lifestyle museum highlighting the history and heritage of Florida.

There are so many more buildings to discover in St. Augustine, some of which I’ve previously covered in my blog. Put on your sneakers and get ready to do a lot of walking and a lot of exploring!

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Governor’s House

  • Address:  48 King Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  Monday thru Saturday, 1000-1700, Sunday, 1300-1700. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.
  • Admission:  General Admission, free.  Donations accepted.

Spanish Dragoon Barracks

  • Address:  Cordova Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  none, marker can be read from sidewalk.
  • Admission:  Not open to the public

Pena-Peck House

  • Address:  143 St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  Friday and Saturday,  1100-1600
  • Admission: free, donations accepted 

Dr. Peck House

  • Address:  St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours:  none, marker can be read from sidewalk.
  • Admission: Not open to the public

Tovar House

  • Address:  14 and 22 St. Francis Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  1000-1700, daily.  Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.
  • Admission: Adults, $8.00, Seniors (55+), $7.00, Students (valid id), $4.00, Children (ages 0-6), free, Military (valid id), $7.00 

Old Spanish Trail Zero Milestone, Fuente de Los Canos de San Francisco, St. Augustine Visitor Center

  • Address:  10 S. Castillo Drive, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  Visitor Center, 0830-1730, daily.  Grounds, 24 hours, daily.
  • Admission:  free

Water Wheel at Mill Top Tavern

  • Address:  19 St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Salcedo House

  • Address:  42 St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  none, marker can be read from sidewalk.
  • Admission:  Not open to the public

Ximenez- Fatio House

  • Address:  20 Aviles Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  Monday thru Saturday, 1000-1700
  • Admission:  By tour, Adults, $10.00, Students/Seniors/Active Military/First Responders/Educators, $8.00, Saint John’s County Residents, $5.00

Lighthouse, Nighthouse

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For a few days, while visiting St. Augustine, I had spied the St. Augustine Lighthouse across the waters of the Matanzas Bay.

Its red, black and white eye-catching color-scheme was hard to miss and I continually vowed that I would make my way over the Bridge of Lions to Anastasia Island for a closer look.

Finally, I patiently waited for a boat to pass through the raised bridge, glancing at the clock to make sure I had enough time to see the lighthouse, its grounds and the museum. Arriving later in the afternoon, I paid my admission in the gift shop and headed out back to the densely grown landscape and followed the path toward the towering beacon.

Built between 1871 and 1874, the lighthouse not only has a colorful body, but a colorful past. Steering numerous vessels to safety along Florida’s coastal waters, the current structure was preceded by another, which eventually fell into ruin. The new tower was put into service with a new first order Fresnel lens and lit for the first time in October 1874 by its first keeper, William Russell. Its lens, handblown in Paris, stood nine feet tall.

For twenty years, the lighthouse was kept by William A. Harn, a Union war hero, who had fought during the Battle of Gettysburg. He and his wife lived in a Victorian style keeper’s house, along with their six daughters. During 1885, the lamp was converted to kerosene and felt the Charleston earthquake in 1886, with its tower swaying violently. It served as a lookout post during World War II and was eventually modernized when plumbing was installed in 1907 and electricity in 1925. Only ten years later, it was the last lighthouse in Florida to be electrified and was fully automated in 1955. Today, the light continues to burn as a private aid for navigation.

Entering the structure and admiring the initial exhibits, I then made my way up the 219 steps to the top of the lighthouse, examining the information on each level and appreciating the effort someone had made to remind me of how many more steps my weary feet had to climb.

Finally, I made it!

At one hundred and sixty-five feet above sea level, I gazed out at the spectacular views of the city of St. Augustine, Anastasia Island and the ocean. It was breezy but a beautiful, clear day and I was amazed with how far down the coast I could see.

Eventually, I made my way down the winding staircase and headed out to see what other exhibits were offered by the Lighthouse and Maritime Museum.

My next stop was at the Keepers’ House. In this building, I learned about life at the Light Station and studied the furnishing and remnants of the families that once resided there. Out front, I admired the memorial to the Crew of the United States Coast Guard E-2C Radar Surveillance Aircraft Number 3501. Other buildings on the premises included a 1941 U.S. Coast Guard barracks and a 1936 garage that was home to a jeep repair facility during World War II. The site is also a National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration weather station. Another stop demonstrated the art of boat making and you can see the First Order Fresnel lens. The best part of the grounds, however, was that you could incorporate sightseeing with a bit of exercise with numerous trails leading through the dense overgrowth that also offered different views of the lighthouse.

Behind the Scenes tours are offered every day, from 1100 to 1500, on the hour, and offer visitors insight into the role that the Light Station has played in St. Augustine’s history and provides a glimpse into the preservation and research work that goes on at the Museum. Thousands of volunteer hours provide what is needed to keep this historic structure up and running and available to visitors and locals alike.

What I thought most fascinating, however, is that the location of the lighthouse has been subject of many ghost stories and supernatural legends. Visitors and volunteers have experienced a great deal of paranormal activity throughout the site and it has attracted the attention of televisions’ Ghost Hunters, My Ghost Story and Most Terrifying Places in America which have featured the lighthouse on their series. For those interested in this type of phenomena, the St. Augustine Lighthouse & Maritime Museum offers tickets for a number of “Dark of the Moon” ghost tours and ghost-themed private events to the public.

As much as I loved my visit in the light of day, I think that the lighthouse during the hours of night might be an extremely interesting and possibly terrifying thing to do!

Who knows who you might meet? The ghosts of past keepers, WWII soldiers or even Floridian explorers? No telling, but in this case, I think you would you have to refer to this Lighthouse as a Nighthouse!

Regardless, this is a must-see in St. Augustine!

St. Augustine Lighthouse and Maritime Museum

  • https://www.staugustinelighthouse.org/
  • Address: 100 Red Cox Drive, St. Augustine, Florida 32080-5443
  • Hours: 0900-1800, daily. Closed Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Day.
  • Admission: Adults, $14.95, Seniors (ages 60+), $12.95, Children (ages 12 or under), $12.95

King’s Castle

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While visitor’s may be aware of the connection of two of King Streets most famous landmarks, Flagler College and The Lightner Museum, many may not know that these came to fruition because of the Villa Zorayda.

Villa Zorayda, an architectural masterpiece, was built by Franklin Smith in 1883, in the Moorish style of the Alhambra Palace in Granada, Spain. When Henry Flagler, millionaire American industrialist, founder of Standard Oil and the Florida East Coast Railway, arrived in St. Augustine in 1883 with his new wife, they found the hotel facilities and transportation systems to be inadequate. Flagler, intrigued by the stunning Villa Zorayda, offered to buy it for his honeymoon but was turned down by the owner, Franklin W. Smith. Flagler then went on to build his own architectural masterpieces on King Street.

Villa Zorayda, also known as Zorayda Castle, was Smith’s winter home and housed his extensive art and antique collection. Over the years, it was utilized as a restaurant, a nightclub, a gambling casino and a hotel. After renovations in 2003, it was reopened to the public in 2008 as a museum.

My first encounter with the architectural marvel was while riding the Old Town Trolley. As we drove through the parking lot to drop off some riders, I was intrigued with the beautiful style, but it wasn’t until the next day when I had a bit of time on my hands to hot foot it over for a quick look-see.

Of course, as I entered, I was met with my least favorite phrase, “Photography Not Permitted”. Argh! Still, I paid my admission, put on my audio guide headphones and started my tour in the small study.

Whoa! This place was amazing! Had I stepped into a middle eastern palace? It sure looked like it!

The trim, the gold detailing, the gorgeous hand-painted tiles! And this was just in the first room, the Prayer Room. Each of the rooms were similarly styled and filled with Franklin Smith’s art and antique collection, now owned by Abraham Mussallem, an authority on oriental rugs and Egyptian artifacts who also purchased the villa in 1913.

The highlight of the villa is the central two-story center court which can be gazed upon from both levels. Rooms surrounding this courtyard are similarly decorated and are bedecked with alabaster and plaster reliefs, replicas of the walls of the Alhambra Palace. “There is no conqueror but God” is reproduced in the tracery of the Alhambra and is inscribed in Arabic script above the front entrance. Filling the space are hand painted wood panels, intricately designed doorways and geometrically shaped windows and colorful stained glass. There are Middle Eastern brass lamps, Oriental rugs, sculptures, carved furniture and Egyptian artifacts throughout. The most curious piece of the collection, however, is the Sacred Cat Rug made from the hairs of ancient cats that roamed the Nile River and is over 2400 years old.

The highlight of the villa is the central two-story center court which can be gazed upon from both levels. Rooms surrounding this courtyard are similarly decorated and are bedecked with alabaster and plaster reliefs, replicas of the walls of the Alhambra Palace. “There is no conqueror but God” is reproduced in the tracery of the Alhambra and is inscribed in Arabic script above the front entrance. Filling the space are hand painted wood panels, intricately designed doorways and geometrically shaped windows and colorful stained glass. There are Middle Eastern brass lamps, Oriental rugs, sculptures, carved furniture and Egyptian artifacts throughout. The most curious piece of the collection, however, is the Sacred Cat Rug made from the hairs of ancient cats that roamed the Nile River and is over 2400 years old.

Sacred Cat Rug

It was awe-inspiring to wander from room to room studying each piece of the collection, including items from its gaming and club days. My favorite room, however, was on the second floor…the Harem Room. More of a small porch, it had a small star-shaped window to peek into the room and decorated with blue and white tiles and ornamentation. An exquisite wooden swing hung in the entry area to this room and I was tempted to take a quick ride…

Harem Room

I did not, of course, but you know what I did do?

I snuck a few pictures…okay more than a few…since the woman manning the front desk wasn’t too worried about interacting with the customers…even when paying…much less watching to see if we were disobeying instructions!

 In all, my visit lasted about forty-five minutes, but was worth the exploration of this unique property and its furnishings. If you are visiting St. Augustine and making your way down King Street to witness the unique stunning structures that are Flagler College and the Lightner Museum, take a bit of time to stop in and check out the Castle of King Street, Villa Zorayda.

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Villa Zorayda

  • https://villazorayda.com/
  • Address: 83 King Street, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours: Monday to Saturday, 1000-1700, Sunday 1100-1600. Closed Easter, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.
  • Admission: Adults (ages 13-59), $12.00, Children (ages 7-12), $5.00, Seniors (ages 60 and over), $11.00.
  • Parking: Free parking for one vehicle while visiting the museum.

Just Like the Caribbean

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Of all the things to love about St. Augustine, there is one that stands out.

Castillo de San Marcos.

I love visiting forts and have been to many throughout the world. What stands out to me about this particular one, however, is that even though it is poised on American soil, as you gaze upon its coquina walls, you can’t help but feel like you’ve been transported to the Caribbean.

Sitting on the shores of Matanzas Bay, the Castillo San Marcos National Monument was built over 340 years ago by the Spanish to protect the sea routes and the city. Builders were brought from Havana and workers retrieved the soft coquina stone from Anastasia island to construct the 26 foot high star-shaped walls over the course of twenty-three years.

Over time, the Castillo de San Marcos underwent many changes including the raising of its walls an additional six feet and the transference of ownership multiple times. While the Spanish instituted its construction, occupation was later transferred by treaty to the British and renamed St. Marks. The Spanish regained the fort in 1784 and changed the name back to its original moniker. In 1821, Spain sold the property to the United States, which renamed it Fort Marion (after Francis Marion) and appropriated it for use by the United States Army until 1899. In 1861, Florida, which had joined the Confederate States of America, gave the fort to the Confederates however, during the following year, the fort was taken by the Union. During this time, storerooms were converted to prison cells and Native Americans (among them Chief Osceola) were held captive in the fort as well as prisoners during the Spanish-American War in 1898. A year later, the fort was discontinued as a military base and named a national monument in 1900 with its original name being restored in 1942.

Over its illustrious history, Castillo de San Marcos has flown six different flags and today remains the oldest and largest masonry fortress within the continental United States. Definitely something to see outside of the Caribbean!

As I made my way to the ticket booth, I anxiously eyed the extensive line snaking out from the entrance. Only one hundred people were being allowed to visit the fort at one time, however, the line moved much quicker than I anticipated and I was walking past the drawbridge and into the fort’s courtyard before I knew it.

Much like other forts I have visited prior, there were two levels to explore…the lower level which housed many exhibits, prison cells and living and working quarters and the upper level which provided expansive views of the historic city, the bay and nearby Anastasia Island, whose natural elements helped to birth the structure. While I enjoyed wandering from from room to room on the lower level, it is always the upper levels that are most fascinating with it guard towers and ornately engraved cannons.

A popular tourist attraction in St. Augustine, the fort is run by the National Park Service and is well preserved and maintained. After your tour of this historical structure, spend some time walking along the waterfront area and enjoy the expanse of ground that fronts the fort. Take a deep breath, close your eyes and imagine…with its water views and palms trees, it certainly does feel as though you are in the presence of a great Caribbean citadel.

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Castillo de San Marcos National Monument

  • https://www.nps.gov/casa/index.htm
  • Address: 1 S Castillo Dr, Saint Augustine Beach, FL 32084-3252
  • Hours: 0900-1730 (last admission 1700), daily. Park grounds closed from midnight until 0530. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas Day.
  • Admission: Adults (16 years and over), $15.00 (good for 7 consecutive days). Children (15 years and younger), free if accompanied by adult. Maximum capacity of 100 visitors in the fort at any time.
  • Parking: The city of St. Augustine maintains a parking lot in front of the Castillo. Parking is $2.50 per hour and paid at automated stations which accept currency, credit and debit. The city’s parking garage is located a block away and provides additional shaded parking.

The Whole Ball of Wax

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Fog is often a problem in coastal areas and it seems that St. Augustine gets its fair share of foggy mornings and evenings.

Setting out early on my last day, the plan was to visit Castillo de San Marcos National Monument, however, as I made my way towards the historic district, I noticed that the fort was barely visible in the pea-soup-like gloom. Thinking about the photographs that I had hoped to capture, I decided that this point of interest might have to wait until later when the haze had dissipated and the sun was high above, illuminating the old structure.

But what could occupy me in the meantime?

Walking away from the waterfront area, I happened upon Potter’s Wax Museum. I had already visited the statue of Henry Flagler which has a seat of honor on the sidewalk in front of the museum. To be honest, the museum wasn’t at the top of my list of things that I really wanted to see, but as I checked the hourly weather forecast and realized that the fog was going to be here for a little while, I decided that it was good as anything else to occupy my time.

Having visited Madame Tussaud’s in London, Amsterdam and Las Vegas, I knew the caliber of these attractions. Did I expect to see the same quality of art in this building that is the oldest pharmacy in the United States? Probably not, but the oldest wax museum in the United States inside of the oldest pharmacy in the United States was probably worth a look!

The small lobby is the ticket office for the wax museum but it should be given a few minutes inspection before continuing. A collection of ancient medications and medical objects are housed in two large glass cases…elixirs to cure headaches, malaria, and fevers to pharmaceutical scales, mortars and pestles, an old cracked leather doctor’s bag and a faded eye chart. There is also a rustic memorial to Seminole Indian Chief Tolomato as well as a wide variety of souvenirs filling the space.

A photo of George L. Potter, the museum’s founder, greets visitors as they enter the museum portion of the building. Fascinated by wax figures he encountered on a visit to London as a child, it was his dream to create this attraction in 1949. Instead of the celebrities that are commonly seen in the grand wax museums today, he set out to preserve the likenesses of great American leaders, statesmen and significant historical figures. Combining waxes from France, hair from Italy and the most skilled artisans, he sought to give the American public what Europeans had at their fingertips. The first figures were produced in Belgium and shipped to the old dispensary on Orange Street where they still reside today.

The historical figures still make up a large part of the museum, however, in addition to American presidents, past and present composers and musicians, artists, innovators, soldiers, kings and queens, there was a smidgen of current celebrities. It was fun to see their likenesses up close, pose for pictures and pretend I was actually standing in their presence.

The Chamber of Horrors in the rear of the museum, not for the faint of heart, housed a collection of those that graced the screens of the most horrifying movies to date…Frankenstein, Freddy Krueger, the Creature From the Black Lagoon, to name a few and in the adjacent room, our favorite Star Wars characters lined up for photo opportunities.

While my visit only lasted about an hour, it was enlightening and the enjoyment I experienced most unexpected. Hoping only to find something to help me pass the time, I actually found a gem. The intimacy of Potter’s museum was a contradiction to what I had experienced in London, Amsterdam and Las Vegas and I can see why it attracts thousands of visitors each year.

George Potter gave us the whole ball of wax and then some!

Finally bidding a farewell to some of Florida’s royalty and founders, I headed out into the late morning to find the fog lifting and the Castillo visible against a backdrop of the waters of Matanzas Bay. No wax figures along the waterfront, but definitely lots of history!

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Potter’s Wax Museum

  • https://www.potterswaxmuseum.com/
  • Address: 31 Orange Street, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily
  • Admission: Adults, $12.13, Children (ages 4-12), $7.07, Children (under 3 years), free

A Tale of Three Hotels

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Throughout St. Augustine’s historic district, there are a great number of historic buildings that any tourist must seek out! But there are three hotels that date back to the city’s establishment as a destination for the rich and famous!

When Henry Flagler, millionaire American industrialist, founder of Standard Oil and the Florida East Coast Railway, arrived in St. Augustine in 1883 with his new wife, they found the hotel facilities and transportation systems to be inadequate. Flager, intrigued by the beautiful Villa Zorayda, offered to buy it for his honeymoon but was turned down by the owner, Franklin W. Smith. Determined to offer travelers a unique place to rest their head and enjoy the city, he began construction on the Ponce de Leon Hotel, which was completed in 1887.

The Spanish Renaissance hotel was the first of its kind, constructed of poured concrete and coquina stone and was one of the first buildings wired with electricity from the onset. The hotel was a huge success and shortly thereafter, Flagler opened the equally exquisite Alcazar across the street to accommodate the overflow of guests.

Each of the hotels attracted notable personalities including President Grover Cleveland, Mark Twain, President Theodore Roosevelt and Babe Ruth.

As Flagler expanded his railway line further south over the years, St. Augustine gave way to West Palm Beach and Miami as winter destinations, both offering warmer weather year-round. Due to travelers venturing further south, both hotels slowly succumbed to the decline in business and closed, eventually with the buildings being used for various purposes during the years after.

In 1968, the Ponce de Leon hotel became the centerpiece of the newly established Flagler College. Construction began in 1976 to restore the Ponce de Leon to its original grandeur and in 1998, the College began offering guided historic tours. It was added to the U.S. National Register of Historic Places in 1975 and became a U.S. National Historic Landmark in 2006.

The Alcazar, opened in 1889, was constructed in the Moorish-Spanish style with 300 guest rooms, Turkish and Russian baths, a magnificent casino, tennis courts and the largest indoor swimming pool in the nation. Closed in 1932, due to the national economic depression, it was purchased by Chicago publisher, Otto C. Lightner in 1947. Lightner converted the building into a hobbies museum which housed several collections, including his own extensive collection of Victorian era art. It was turned over to the city of St. Augustine and it was opened to the public in 1948.

While I had hoped to take the tour of Flagler College to see the former Ponce de Leon Hotel, I arrived to find that tours were temporarily suspended to the Covid restrictions. Sadly, I was only able to admire the exterior of the many buildings that make up Flagler College, however, this was not entirely a bad thing as it is like no other that I have ever seen. The buildings are quite beautiful as well as the immaculate grounds upon which they are situated.

Crossing the street to admire the Lightner Museum, I found the exact opposite situation. I had not planned to visit the museum, which was open, but I had learned through my Old Town Trolley tour guide that if a complete visit was not in your plan, then you at least needed to take a look at the courtyard, which is free to the public. What she said was most accurate…the building is an architectural wonder, but the courtyard is equally magnificent and lush with palm trees and fountains and worthy of a look. It is easy to imagine it in its heyday when it lured celebrities and noteworthy visitors.

After capturing some amazing photos of Flagler’s two stunning architectural gems, I headed across Cordova Street to admire the Casa Monica Hotel. This hotel was built by Franklin Smith in 1988, to whom Henry Flagler sold the land. After only four months of operation, Smith sold the hotel to Flagler, who renamed it the Cordova Hotel. He connected it to the Alcazar via a bridge in 1902. Eventually it fell victim to the Great Depression and closed. It was reopened by Richard Kessler in 1997 and renamed the Casa Monica Resort and Spa.

Though I wasn’t able to gaze upon the interiors of any of these historic hotels, I was content to inspect all of their exteriors and appreciate their prodigious architectural features. There are so many historic buildings throughout the city, but these are three that should not be missed!

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Flagler College

Lightener Museum

  • https://lightnermuseum.org
  • Address:  75 King Street, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily
  • Admission: Adults, $17.00, Youth (ages 12-17 years), $10.00, Children (ages 11 and under), free, College Student, $14.00, Military, $14.00, Seniors (ages 65+), $14.00

Casa Monica Resort and Spa

The Churches of St. Augustine

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As I hopped on the St. Augustine’s Old Town Trolley to begin my tour of the city, I was excited for the frequent stops and to see many of the historic churches scattered throughout the city. Many of these churches were not open, however, being able to gaze upon the architecture of these sanctuaries was worth the ride.

Grace United Methodist Church, located on Carrera Street, looked a little familiar…not because I had been there before, but because it had the same appearance as the Ponce de Leon Hotel. Indeed, Henry Flagler built the church in 1887 in the Spanish Renaissance Revival style, using the same builders and architects of the historic hotel. The church was built to replace the wood-constructed Olivet Methodist Church, which stood on the site Flagler wanted for the up-coming Alcazar Hotel and it was donated to the people of the city. It is currently listed on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places.

A little further down the street, I found the Ancient City Baptist Church. Though not as ornate as Grace United, it offered a rather stately appearance on the corner of Carrera and Sevilla Streets. Dating back to 1887, the church was finally built in 1894, when Henry Flagler offered the charter members a parcel of land at no charge but with a few stipulations…the property could not be mortgaged, a bell could not be placed in the tower and the building had to be completed within two years. The Romanesque Revival church was completed after a year’s time and has served the community ever since.

Heading down a block south, I found a magnificent piece of architecture, the Memorial Presbyterian Church. Now, if I found Grace United to be familiar, I most certainly felt some deja vu when I stood in the front of this church. Florida’s first and oldest Presbyterian congregation, Memorial was established in June 1824, completed in 1890 and also designed in the Spanish Renaissance Revival style. What made it so familiar to me, however, was that I have a visited a famous church much like it…in Venice, Italy. Memorial Presbyterian Church was based on the Basilica of St. Mark and also built by the architects of the Ponce de Leon hotel by Henry Flagler. I would have loved to have seen its interior, but due to restrictions, it was not open at the time. I contented myself with a walk around the grounds, admiring each and every angle of this prestigious sanctuary.

As I finally made my way to Plaza de la Constitution, I came upon the petite Trinity Parish Episcopal Church. This church was also not open, but it made for a beautiful photo subject situated on the square on the corner of King and Saint George Streets. The church building was completed in 1831, is the oldest Protestant church in Florida and is known for having some of the oldest and most beautiful stained glass windows in the Episcopal Diocese of Florida.

At long last, I made my way across the plaza to the church that I most wanted to see, the Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine. Thankfully arriving during its limited opening hours, I was able to inspect both the exterior the interior of Cathedral. Built in the Spanish Mission style (appropriating from St. Augustine’s inception) it is the oldest Catholic Church in the city and the seat of the Bishop of the Diocese of St. Augustine. First established in 1565, the church was built during the years of 1793 to 1797 and designated a U.S. National Historic Landmark. It is the oldest Christian congregation in the contiguous United States.

As I walked throughout the structure, I admired the burnt orange ceiling with its darkened wood trusses. Exquisite murals lined the walls depicting scenes from the history of the Catholic Church in the development of the New World and scenes from the life of Saint Augustine of Hippo. The stained glass windows were exquisite and allowed a filtering of light which highlighted the gold leafed statuary on the main altar and the orange and blue tile floor was extraordinary. One of the most unique cathedrals I have ever set foot in, I felt as though I should be in another country.

Hopping back on the Old Town Trolley, I finally set my sights on some of the other historical structures of the city.

Prayer time was over…

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Grace United Methodist Church

  • https://gracestaugustine.org
  • Address: 8 Carrera St, St. Augustine, Florida 32084-3622
  • Hours: Tours of sanctuary from 1300-1500, most weekday afternoons
  • Admission: Free

Ancient City Baptist Church

Memorial Presbyterian Church

  • https://memorialpcusa.org/
  • Address: 32 Sevilla Street, Saint Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours: Visitors are welcome to take a self-guided tour of the church from 1100-1545, Monday through Saturday.
  • Admission: Free

Trinity Episcopal Church

  • https://trinitysta.org
  • Address: 215 St George St, Saint Augustine, Florida 32084, United States
  • Hours: Unknown
  • Admission: Free

Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine

Shrine Surprise

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Having visited Our Lady of La Leche Shrine and on my way to making a stop at each of St. Augustine’s illustrious churches on the trolley tour, it should be no surprise to anyone that I would seek out a small Greek Orthodox Shrine in the heart of the historic district.

Although I knew that this shrine was dedicated to Saint Photios the Great (Feast Day February 6), the Ecumenical Patriarch of Constantinople (middle of the ninth century) and to the first colony of Greek people who came to America in 1768, I was not sure what I was going to find on St. George Street. I wandered inside, finding no entrance fee and a small courtyard. Following the walkway to a pair of plain grey doors, I heaved one open and stepped inside.

At first glance, I was a bit underwhelmed. A large sterile room with glass cases housing ornaments filled the room and photographs graced the walls. But as I turned right, color caught my eye.

An archway led to a little chapel decorated in the most magnificent manner. Each of its interior arches was trimmed intricately in gold leaf and the ceilings and alcoves contained Byzantine style frescoes of Greek apostles and saints. Unlike anything I have ever seen, even during my travels abroad, it was no surprise that it has been described as the “Jewel of St. George Street.”

Thankfully, I was alone for quite some time and I was able to absorb every little detail including an altar and a lectern and inspect each of the stunning frescoes before making way for other visitors.

Exhibits within the museum depict the life of early Greeks in America and the development of the Greek Orthodox Church in America. The displays tell the story of the First Greek colony in the New World through various artifacts, photographs and historical documents. Of particular interest was a black and white photographic exhibit on the inhabitants of Mount Athos by Nikos Vatopoulos. There was also another smaller photographic collection by Peter C. Yalanis detailing Greek ruins just before heading the gift shop filled with religious treasures.

Although I had been excited to seek out the numerous churches in the city, this shrine took me by surprise. Much to my delight, I found a stunning piece of architecture hidden away in the center of the historic district. Now that my religious interest had been sparked by Our Lady of La Leche shrine and this amazing chapel, I was excited to set out and see the city’s other holy sites!

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St. Photios Greek Orthodox National Shrine

  • https://stphotios.org/
  • Address: 41 St. George Street, St. Augustine, FL, 32084
  • Hours: Daily, 1100-1700
  • Admission: Free, donations accepted

Old School

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Many years ago, I remember sitting in my first-grade Catholic-school classroom listening to Sister Mary Marshall play songs to help us recall vocabulary, spelling and mathematics. Sitting next to my friend, Nina, we watched our teacher write on the giant chalkboards in her neat “nun” handwriting and cowered from her wrath when we were caught misbehaving!

Although our school was relatively small, it was gigantic compared to the some of the first schools established in the United States.

After the first settlements were founded, eventually, the need arose for the children’s education. Small one-room schoolhouses were built and a teacher was brought in to deliver instruction. Since there was a small number of children, all ages were taught together.

Although the Oldest Wooden School House, located in St. Augustine’s historic district, only dates back to the early 18th century and was by no means the first, it does hold the title of the “oldest” as it is the only one still standing. No other wooden structures in the city, built prior to 1702, remain as the British burned St. Augustine to the ground during that year.

The Oldest Wooden School House was built for the Genopoly family in the Minorcan Quarter. It was a single-story building made of cypress and red cedar and had a detached kitchen and a privy. The first schoolteacher, Juan Genopoly, eventually commissioned a second story to guarantee privacy for himself and his family.

Today, visitors enter through the gift shop and pay the admission fee. From the gift shop they step into the quaint walled-in garden and observe the many statues of international educators, the old school bell in the corner of the courtyard and a 250-year-old pecan tree which still bears fruit.

After my walk through the garden, I took a peek inside of the kitchen and learned that it was not used as a cafeteria, but as the location where the teachers whipped up their own meals for themselves and their family. Students brought their own “lunch pails” and the kitchen was built as a separate entity to avoid unnecessarily heating the schoolhouse or catching it on fire.

Turning to find the entrance to the schoolhouse, I stepped inside, taking care to monitor the uneven floorboards. The two rooms on either side were decorated in the style of the time and it was evident that one was used as an office for Teacher Genopoly.

Passing into the main room, I observed the small, narrow stairway leading up to the family’s main living and sleeping quarters and the small space underneath the stairs which demonstrated “the dungeon” where unruly students were placed for punishment. To the right was the main space where instruction took place around the fireplace.

In long showcases along the back wall, there are many artifacts, including old textbooks and school supplies from the eighteenth century and a list of the last class which attended school there in 1864.

As I ventured closer to the students, I wondered how they were segregated for learning purposes and observed how the dunce cap was used not on the head of the ill-behaved child, as I had thought, but the head of the slow learner. Although it was a common practice, it was not one that I thought was fair.

And with that, my time visiting the Oldest Wooden School House was complete.

Short and sweet, yet very educational…for me and for those who came before me…both visitors and students…I really enjoyed this American Treasure, such an important part of St. Augustine’s past.

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Oldest Wooden Schoolhouse

  • Address: 14 St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida, 32084
  • Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 1000-1700, Friday and Saturday, 1000-1900
  • Admission: Adult, $5.00, Students (ages 6-12), $4.00, Children (under 5), free

The Heart of the City

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Sitting on a bench in a plaza, far, far away, I enjoy watching the citizens of the city come together. Older people sit on benches watching the children run and play. Patrons sip their lattes in outdoor cafes and sample the local cuisine. Vendors sell their wares and the old cathedral keeps watch over the entire setting, marking the hour with the tone of a mighty bell.

This scene can be found throughout many cities in the world. A few U.S. cities have town squares but being such a young country and one that tried to set itself apart, town squares are just not as prevalent.

Although everyone is familiar with the landing at Jamestown in 1607, many don’t realize that the oldest city in the United States had already been in existence since 1565, when the Jamestown settlers made their way ashore.

St. Augustine.

Plaza de la Constitution, the heart of St. Augustine, was established in 1573 by the Spanish Royal Ordinances and is the oldest public park in the United States.

When designed, the requirement was put in place that the plaza be oriented toward the primary compass points with a length equal to one and one-half times its width. Public and government buildings and churches were constructed facing the plaza and it was the place where the citizens of St. Augustine came to do business and meet their neighbors.

As I made a plan to see all of St. Augustine’s sights, one of the first things I noticed was Plaza de la Constitution. Thinking fondly of all the time I had spent abroad, enjoying the architecture and action of many plazas, piazzas, squares and parks (Piazza Navona in Rome, St. Mark’s Square in Venice, Plaza Mayor in Madrid, Plaza de Mayo in Buenos Aires, Trafalgar Square in London…just to name a few!) I knew that it would be the best place to start my explorations of the landmarks in the Old Town.

Among some of the sites within the park that I discovered were the old public well, which dates back to the 1600s, a pavilion used for city events and live entertainment, a monument to Confederate veterans, a 19th century monument to the Spanish Constitution of 1812 and the historic marketplace structure where the citizens of St. Augustine went to purchase their food and much needed items. Today, the market is no longer in operation, but the square is surrounded by numerous restaurants and shops. I was even offered a free banana as I walked into the park…by a PETA group hoping to bring awareness to pet cruelty!

After I walked through the park, languishing in the shade of the mossy oaks, I made my way to the front of the park and the spot that Juan Ponce de Leon landed near in 1513, marked by a statue on Ponce de Leon Circle at the entrance to the Bridge of Lions. Not only did I have a great view of the statue and of the old marketplace building, but of the mighty oak trees that stand at attention in the park.

The Public Market

There are many historic structures that surround the plaza, including the historic Government House, built from 1706-1713, which served as the home of the Florida’s Spanish governors and as the capitol of the Florida Territory in 1823.

The Government House

The exchange of flags took place in the plaza when Florida was transferred from Spain to the United States. Meetings were held in this location on the eve of the Civil War and Union Navy Officers crossed the park in 1862 when they reclaimed the city from the Confederates.

The Treasury on the Plaza

Also sitting on the plaza are two churches, Trinity Parish Episcopal Church, (established 1763-1783) and the Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine (constructed 1793-1797), which was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1970 and is the oldest Catholic Church in the city and the seat of the Bishop of the Diocese of St. Augustine. The basilica’s awe-inspiring mission architecture is hard to miss, towering over the plaza.

Trinity Episcopal Church
The Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine

Although it would have been easy to grab a seat on one of the plaza’s benches and watch the world go by, there was just too much to see and do.

How could I see it all?

I exited the park, picked a street and started walking!

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Plaza de la Constitution

  • Address: 170 St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free