fort – Snapping The Globe

Rediscovering Accra

There is nowhere like Africa.

The smells, the sights, the people!

I had missed being in Accra and was excited to show my friend around on her first sojourn. Once we had visited Black Star Square, a new locale for me, it was time to reacquaint with some “oldies but goodies” and see what else we might discover in the process.

When you walk around the city, you never know what you might encounter…fighting cows, someone’s laundry on a city bench or wall, someone sleeping under a tree, countless vendors hawking their goods. It is always a surprise and usually quite entertaining.

Dodging the hazards of the crumbling sidewalk, we ventured back along 28 September Road towards the Accra Arts Market. Speaking of not knowing what you might find or walk away with, this is the place. I was in search of face masks made of kente cloth and I knew exactly where to look, however, it is quite difficult engaging with the locals who invite you into their booths and remind you that it’s always “free to look”. Although I have countless masks and other oddities from my previous visits, I steeled myself to say no, however, my friend, on her first visit, couldn’t and walked away with a small table!

Purchases aside, we were able to reconnect with my old friend David, a drum maker who works in the market, share a soda and some great gossip!

Since the Kwame Nkrumah monument was a short distance away, I decided that we should stop in for a visit. Although I had been there before, it was nice to see it once again, even if the fountains were all drained and the property a bit unkempt. One of the most interesting things I discovered was in the museum at the back of the property. I had just finished watching the Netflix series, “The Crown” and remembered the episode when Queen Elizabeth danced with President Nkrumah at a ball in Accra in 1961. Right there on the wall was a photo depicting that particular event!

Leaving the property, I suddenly realized a major mistake we made upon our arrival. I really am out of practice… Never tell some of the locals your name unless you want a personalized ornament, shell, bracelet…the possibilities are endless. I understand that they are desperately trying to make a living, but once they had our name (in our case) they made bracelets for each of us with our monikers woven into it and wanted to sell it to us. Sadly, I didn’t have enough money for their asking price (which was quite high) and I felt bad for the amount of time spent making it, so…we came to an agreement of a purchase with a discount.

Continuing on, our next stop was the Holy Trinity Cathedral. This beautiful, stone church was completed in 1894 and was funded by the colonial British government. Fifteen years after its completion, it was deemed a cathedral by the Diocese of Accra.

Having lain my eyes upon many a cathedral in the world, I would say that this one was in no way equal, however, mass was just finishing and the priest warmly welcomed us inside and told us to make ourselves at home. The design was quite interesting with a dark, barrel-vaulted ceiling, a stone-walled interior and red velvet-covered pews, but it was stark in contrast to some of the Italian, Central and South American gilded temples I have set foot in. Nonetheless, it was nice to see the interior and even speak with some of the parishioners who were still gathered outside.

Heading into the Jamestown area, I was hoping that we could tour the Ussher Fort, one of the three forts that Europeans built in the region during the middle of the 17th century. This fort was built by the Dutch and was completed in 1649 and I suspected that we would be able to get some interesting photos in the bright, sunny day. Blaming incorrect internet information, we found the place to be closed, but were still able to sneak a peek at the interior through the barred doorways. Definitely another place for one of my future trips.

After stopping for a cold drink at the colorful Jamestown Cafe, we cut through the area that houses the Makola market. Having seen the market in operation during its peak operations during the week, we found the streets to be relatively deserted…Sundays are really a day of rest for many Ghanaians. A little further, after passing the monument to King Tackie Tawiah, (king of Accra from 1862-1902), we ended up on Independence Avenue with its countless vendors and local market. While Makola was quiet, we found a flurry of activity while hastening our own travels back to our hotel.

Hobbling back to my room, I suddenly realized how much ground we had covered that day. My friend was thrilled to have seen so many interesting sights and met so many interesting people. Me? I was just happy to rediscover one of my favorite African cities!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Accra Arts Centre

Address: Prof. John Evans Atta Mills High Street, Accra Ghana
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: free

Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park and Museum

Address: Prof. John Evans Atta Mills High Street, Accra Ghana
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: 5 cedi (about .83 US)

Holy Trinity Cathedral

Address: High Street, Accra Ghana
Hours: Unknown
Mass Schedule: Unknown
Admission: free

Ussher Fort

https://www.ghanamuseums.org/ussher-fort-museum.php
Address: 33 Prof. Atta Mills High St, Accra, Ghana
Hours: Unknown
Admission: Pupils from Primary to JHS 3, GH¢ 0.20 (about .04 US), SHS Students, GH¢ 0.50 (about .08 US), Tertiary Students with ID, GH¢ 1.00 (about .16 US), Ghanaian Adults, GH¢ 2.00 (about .33 US), Foreign Children, GH¢ 2.00 (about .33 US), Foreign Students with ID, GH¢ 5.00 (about .83 US), Adult Foreigners, GH¢ 10.00 (about $1.66 US)

Makola Market

Address: Kojo Thompson Rd, Accra, GH
Hours: 0800-1800, daily
Admission: free

Just Like the Caribbean

Of all the things to love about St. Augustine, there is one that stands out.

Castillo de San Marcos.

I love visiting forts and have been to many throughout the world. What stands out to me about this particular one, however, is that even though it is poised on American soil, as you gaze upon its coquina walls, you can’t help but feel like you’ve been transported to the Caribbean.

Sitting on the shores of Matanzas Bay, the Castillo San Marcos National Monument was built over 340 years ago by the Spanish to protect the sea routes and the city. Builders were brought from Havana and workers retrieved the soft coquina stone from Anastasia island to construct the 26 foot high star-shaped walls over the course of twenty-three years.

Over time, the Castillo de San Marcos underwent many changes including the raising of its walls an additional six feet and the transference of ownership multiple times. While the Spanish instituted its construction, occupation was later transferred by treaty to the British and renamed St. Marks. The Spanish regained the fort in 1784 and changed the name back to its original moniker. In 1821, Spain sold the property to the United States, which renamed it Fort Marion (after Francis Marion) and appropriated it for use by the United States Army until 1899. In 1861, Florida, which had joined the Confederate States of America, gave the fort to the Confederates however, during the following year, the fort was taken by the Union. During this time, storerooms were converted to prison cells and Native Americans (among them Chief Osceola) were held captive in the fort as well as prisoners during the Spanish-American War in 1898. A year later, the fort was discontinued as a military base and named a national monument in 1900 with its original name being restored in 1942.

Over its illustrious history, Castillo de San Marcos has flown six different flags and today remains the oldest and largest masonry fortress within the continental United States. Definitely something to see outside of the Caribbean!

As I made my way to the ticket booth, I anxiously eyed the extensive line snaking out from the entrance. Only one hundred people were being allowed to visit the fort at one time, however, the line moved much quicker than I anticipated and I was walking past the drawbridge and into the fort’s courtyard before I knew it.

Much like other forts I have visited prior, there were two levels to explore…the lower level which housed many exhibits, prison cells and living and working quarters and the upper level which provided expansive views of the historic city, the bay and nearby Anastasia Island, whose natural elements helped to birth the structure. While I enjoyed wandering from from room to room on the lower level, it is always the upper levels that are most fascinating with it guard towers and ornately engraved cannons.

A popular tourist attraction in St. Augustine, the fort is run by the National Park Service and is well preserved and maintained. After your tour of this historical structure, spend some time walking along the waterfront area and enjoy the expanse of ground that fronts the fort. Take a deep breath, close your eyes and imagine…with its water views and palms trees, it certainly does feel as though you are in the presence of a great Caribbean citadel.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Castillo de San Marcos National Monument

https://www.nps.gov/casa/index.htm
Address: 1 S Castillo Dr, Saint Augustine Beach, FL 32084-3252
Hours: 0900-1730 (last admission 1700), daily. Park grounds closed from midnight until 0530. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas Day.
Admission: Adults (16 years and over), $15.00 (good for 7 consecutive days). Children (15 years and younger), free if accompanied by adult. Maximum capacity of 100 visitors in the fort at any time.
Parking: The city of St. Augustine maintains a parking lot in front of the Castillo. Parking is $2.50 per hour and paid at automated stations which accept currency, credit and debit. The city’s parking garage is located a block away and provides additional shaded parking.

Forts and Beaches

How do you combine history with a day at the beach?

In Key West, you can take a boat tour to the Dry Tortugas. On this island, seventy miles west of Key West, visitors can tour Fort Jefferson, bask in the sun and snorkel the clear waters of the Caribbean. A long ferry ride for a short time on the island? Surely there must be a better way!

Fort Zachary Taylor State Park on the southern part of the Key West, also offers a historic fort and a beach.

Built in the mid-1800s, Fort Zachary Taylor was one of three strongholds built to defend the southeastern United States coastline. Completed in 1866, it played significant roles in both the Civil War and the Spanish-American War and played a key role in guarding the harbor of Key West.

The fort, built by Irish brick masons, is two and a half stories tall and forms a trapezoid. Towering over fifty feet about the water, it walls are five feet thick. Back in its heyday, the fort housed 198 cannons and 450 men.

Only a few cannons (and none of the men) are in existence today, but we were able to walk along the top of the walls, enjoying the ocean views and in the inner areas where the remaining cannons are housed. There are multiple displays detailing life in the fort and ammunitions in the areas which once housed the barracks and if you are lucky, you might spy one of the iguanas that call the fort home.

After we had made our way throughout the historic structure, we exited the gates and took the Tropical Hammock Trail leading to the Fort Zachary Taylor State Park beach, passing the remains of the old Blacksmith Shop along the way.

Our walk wasn’t a long one and we found a rocky beach edged with calm waters and palm trees.

After we secured two chairs and an umbrella, it was time for some relaxation. The beach was decent, however, paying more for two chairs and an umbrella than we had in the Greek Isles, was a bit surprising. In addition, we were also glad to have brought snacks as the concession stand’s pricing was on the high side. As far as a refreshing swim was concerned, the water was dark and cloudy and extremely warm. Taking some time to relax together and get some sun seemed to be the only benefit of our visit.

So, while we enjoyed the fort and beach’s close proximity to the other attractions in Key West, what we expected was not what we got. I had seen the pictures of Fort Jefferson in the Dry Tortugas and maybe that skewed my perception of what we would be experiencing in Key West. Though I enjoyed the fort I felt we were a bit short-changed on the beach side.

Next time, I think I’m paying for that long ride to the Dry Tortugas!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Fort Zachary Taylor State Park

https://www.floridastateparks.org/parks-and-trails/fort-zachary-taylor-historic-state-park
Address: 601 Howard England Way, Key West FL 33040
Hours: 0800-sundown, daily
Admission: $6.00 per vehicle (2-8 people). Pedestrians, bicyclists, extra passengers, passengers in vehicle with holder of Annual Individual Entrance Pass (Monroe County surcharge included in this price), $2.50. Single-occupant vehicle or motorcycle (Monroe County surcharge included in this price), $4.50.
Beach Amenities: Two chairs and umbrella, $30.00. Concessions and watersport rentals vary.

The Other Side of Havana

Old Havana is filled with history, architecture, landmarks, entertainment, restaurants and museums. One would be hard pressed to not find something that interests them during their visit.

There are many other parts of the city, however, that offer up some amazing items of interest, so making a priority to step outside of the box is essential.

When I had gone on my tour of the city, we had visited the areas of Vedado, Centro Habana and Habana Viejo and crossed through the tunnel to Habana del Este. There was a brief stopover at the Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro and a drive by of Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana, the two fortresses that lay to the east of the entrance canal to the Bay of Havana. Since I didn’t have the time to properly explore each of these or the Military Exhibition, I decided that I needed to return on my last afternoon in the city.

But how would I get there?

Toying with the idea of taking the ferry to the Christ Statue, I decided that it would be a long walk to each of the fortresses and back. Remembering that I had seen many taxi cabs parked by the Plaza 13 de Marzo, I headed in that direction, thinking that cab fare would not be much just to cross through the tunnel from that point. Quickly locating a driver, I discovered that cab fare to the east side was a flat rate of only $10 CUC. A short drive ensued and I was dropped at El Morro.

After I paid the entrance fee, I made my way through a long, semi-arched tunnel. Exiting in the bright sunshine, I found myself on the colossal ramparts of the castle, complete with sweeping views of the the city across the waterway and the Battery of Twelve Apostles below. These twelve cannons, along with with the cannons on the ramparts, helped assist in the defense of the Havana Harbor and the city.

This iconic landmark was built between 1589 and 1630 and together with the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta, on the opposite side of the bay, was a major part of the city’s defense fortification system. To safeguard the harbor from pirates and other invaders, a chain was strung between the two fortresses.

The fortress grounds are sprawling and contain several museums; Museo del Morro, Museo de la Navegación and Museo de Piratas. These museums display artifacts and items related to the castle’s history, the city’s maritime history and pirate folklore. The most stunning part of the complex, however, is the lighthouse which was built in 1846. The lighthouse was constructed to take the place of the watchtower that was destroyed by the British during their siege in 1762.

Hoping to enjoy the views of the fort and surrounding areas from a higher vantage point, I approached the lighthouse. Finding the door open, I ventured in and made my way up the curved staircase. As I neared the top, however, I heard a voice which appeared to be talking to another on a two-way radio. Thinking that maybe I was entering somewhere where I should not be, I quickly made my way back down and out of the structure. Having to be content to enjoy the lighthouse from the castle level, I also made my way through the exhibit which detailed lighthouses throughout Cuba. It is also interesting to note that El Morro once housed a school for lighthouse keepers.

Although it was still sweltering during the afternoon, I made my way around the fort, admiring the rusted cannons, central barracks, the old latrines and the small memorial, commemorating the 1762 siege, located between the two strong powder rooms in the northeast bastion. There was also a stairway which contained many clay vats leading to a hidden exit at the Star platform. These earthenware jars are called tinajones and were place there for the storage of the oil used in the lighthouse. Now empty, it was worth the descent for the lovely views of the water, the city and the Battery of the Twelve Apostles.

After a quick stop in the cafe for some much needed water, a walk through the vendor’s stalls and a walk around the grounds, I decided to make my way to the east and the Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana. Known as one of the most complex and expensive defense systems in the Americas, it is also one of the largest.

Constructed in the 18th century with some of most advanced military defensive features, it was named after King Carlos III of Spain, who demanded a spyglass to see it from Madrid. He claimed that such a fortress, which cost so much, surely could be seen across the ocean!

Over the years, the fortress has been used as a prison, a storage facility and, more famously, as the command headquarters of Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara. After renovations were completed the early 1990s, different museums were opened within the complex including the Museo de Armas (Museum of Arms), Comandacia de ‘Che’ Guevara (Command Headquarters of ‘Che’ Guevara) and a museum of the history of the fortress.

Most famously, La Cabana is known for attracting thousands of locals and visitors each night to witness a tradition that began in the eighteenth century; the firing of the 9 o’clock cannon. Having heard the shot from my location in Old Havana each night, I had hoped to witness the spectacle at the fortress during my visit.

As I arrived in the late afternoon, after a short walk from El Morro, I was able to enter via the great drawbridge, which in turn, led to another bridge which crossed the now-dry moat. The innards of the fort was laid out much like a small city and I admired the repetitive framework. Making my way to the ramparts to admire the restored cannons and the excellent views of both the city and of El Morro, I marveled at the sheer size of this place.

Discovering the Comandacia de ‘Che’ Guevara (Command Headquarters of ‘Che’ Guevara), I explored the items of interest that were once in his possession, including the desk from which he made revolutionary decisions. Next door, I was welcomed by an elderly gentleman who was manning the International Book Fair, held here annually…a great place to visit, if you read in Spanish.

Out in the courtyard, I found the inimitable sundial which told me that it was around five o’clock, the time which everything begins to shut down around the city. Since no one was asking me to leave, I continued my explorations, but found the chapel and the Museum of Arms closed. Noting that vendors were setting up, I realized that they must do so each evening in anticipation of the crowds that arrive for the cannon firing. Although I walked around a bit more, I realized that the restaurants I had encountered were not open. I was tired, hungry, ready for a shower and nine o’clock was a few hours away. Besides, I wasn’t even sure how I was going to get home!

Stopping for a few more photo opportunities on my way out, I hesitated at the road. Should I turn right and head toward the Christ Statue and try to catch the ferry back to Havana or should I turn left and head back to El Morro where I might be lucky enough to find an empty cab? It was a tough decision because I really didn’t know how far I was from the ferry. Turning toward El Morro, I prayed for a passing cab. Some passed with patrons and an empty one did drive by, but I did not see it until it was too late to flag it down! Continuing down the road, I finally made it back to El Morro and as luck would have it, I saw an old Russian cab.

Now, I had ridden in many classic cars during my visit, but this type of car was one that I had maybe only seen during my trips to Moscow years ago; the Russian Lada. It wasn’t a very smooth ride back through the tunnel, but it certainly was unique! The little old gentleman driving put on “Mack the Knife” as he swerved, bumped and sped me back to Old Havana. It was seriously one of the funniest, yet terrifying moments I have ever had in a cab…and I take cabs in New York regularly! (Check out the video on Facebook, Snapping the Globe).

Finally, setting my feet on terra firma and still a bit shaky, I headed back to my Airbnb for my last night.

My last night to enjoy delicious Cuban food…

My last night to say admire the amazing architecture…

My last night to hear the cannon firing…

My last night to lay in bed and listen to the city outside my door…

My last night to enjoy my Airbnb host’s hospitality…

I realized that for all my uncertainty about taking this trip, I had found a place that rated in the top of my all-time favorite places! A place that I will certainly return in the future. After all, there were still many things to see within the city and so much outside of it!

Yes, Cuba…I am coming back!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro

Address: Havana, Cuba
Hours: 1000-1900, daily
Admission: $4 CUC (about $4 US)

Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana

Address:
Hours: 1000-2200, daily
Admission: $4 CUC (about $4 US)

Hoofing It Thru Havana

Especial del dia…pollo con queso en trigo.

As I sat in the sanwicheria, eating my chicken and cheese sandwich, I contemplated how to tackle parts of the city which I had not seen that day or on my previous day’s ventures.

Should I make my way to the waterside area bordering Avenue del Puerto for its many museums and churches, venture out to the Malecon’s architectural wonders and take in the fresh sea air or head south to the Almacenes San Jose Artisans’ Market to seek out some exclusive treasures?

Finally deciding to head north, I made my way along the narrow, dusty streets stopping to capture the captivating architecture and scenes of daily life on my camera. What fascinated me most, however, were the small markets and the carnicerias…not for what they offered or for their appearances, but how locals were required to stand outside in long lines to purchase products. I was a bit confused with the markets, especially, as people stood with their noses pressed against the windows while shopkeepers unlocked the door and allowed one person inside at irregular intervals. After speaking with my host, I learned that purchases are regulated by the government and it is sometimes difficult for locals to obtain necessities. Thankfully, drinks (beer, water and soda) and food were provided by my host and charged to my account, so I never had to figure out how to gain admission into these exchanges.

Continuing on, I decided to conquer the northern part of the city, starting with the Museum of the Revolution. After paying my admission and checking my backpack in the baggage room, I made my through the former Presidential Palace, which dates back to the initiation of its construction in 1913. The awe-inspiring building was decorated by Tiffany’s of New York, contains a jaw-dropping double staircase and many exquisite rooms including the Salón de los Espejos (Hall of Mirrors), which resembles the room in the Palace of Versailles, the Salón Dorado, used for banquets and decorated in Louis XVI style, the Despacho Presidencial, the President’s office where Fidel Castro was sworn in in 1959 and the chapel with its Tiffany chandelier.

*Salón de los Espejos* (*Hall of Mirrors*)

Though I was originally unaware of Cuba’s history, especially during the revolutionary period, the displays, though mostly captioned in Spanish, contain much documentation and photographic evidence of Batista’s overthrow and a somewhat skewed view of Castro’s seizure of power. There is a large array of artifacts, clothing (including blood-stained and bullet riddled uniforms), letters, documents, weapons and newspapers. If you look carefully or have a guide point it out to you, you can spy the bullet holes in the walls, near the staircase, from the students’ attempt at overthrowing the government in 1957.

In the rear of the building you can find the Granma, the vessel that brought Castro, Guevara and eighty-two others to Cuba in 1956 with the purpose of overthrowing the regime of Fulgencio Batista. Due to preservation purposes, be warned, the ship is partly obscured by the surrounding glass and continuously guarded. There are other vehicles associated with the revolution surrounding the pavilion, including planes, rockets and an old postal van that was used as a getaway car during the 1957 attack. In the courtyard and throughout the museum, there were many art pieces by Kamyl Bullaudy Rodriguez.

*Sculpture by Kamyl Bullaudy Rodriguez.*

In addition to seeing many other tourists within the museum, I was a bit taken aback to find many locals as well. I later learned, however, the museum was designed primarily to help Cubans understand their own history.

Exiting the museum, I stopped to take a look at the fragment of the former city wall and the SAU-100 tank used by Castro during the 1961 Bay of Pigs battle. Just beyond these landmarks, I made my way through the Plaza Trece de Marzo, passing the statue of patriot José Marti on horseback, a gift from U.S. donors through a fund initiated by the Bronx Museum of the Arts. The original bronze statue of Marti on horseback, by equine sculptor Anna Hyatt Huntington (from which this was modeled) can be seen in New York’s Central Park.

Walking a ways on the Paseo de Marti, again, I was in awe of the architectural gems. Although some were a shadow of their former selves, you could see the artistry that still prevails. This must have been a beautiful place to walk in its heyday and today is still a nice place to stroll with its colorfully, tiled walkways, large shade trees and dedicated effigies.

Crossing the traffic circle near the Spanish embassy, I walked up to the monument that we had passed earlier in the day during my tour…that of General Maximo Gomez, a commander in the wars for independence. The statue is well maintained and frequented by youngsters who used the wide open area to skate.

As the breeze from the Bay of Havana beckoned me toward the water, I found myself at the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta, one of the four historic forts that defended Port Havana. Built more than 400 years ago, San Salvador de la Punta Castle is also one of the three fortresses that appear on the Cuban coat of arms.

Castle La Punta and Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro, the fort I had visited on my tour earlier during the day, were both built on either sides of the channel’s entry. For centuries, a chain barrier was stretched across the canal to prevent access into the port. If this did not deter marauders, pirates and anyone else with ill-intent, there were many large cannons pointed toward the water.

Today, the castle’s moat is no longer functional and the castle no longer serves in its original capacity. Renovated in 2002, to restore it to its original historic appearance, its interior houses the Castle Museum. There are several rooms that inform about the castle’s history and construction, displays of naval models, various objects from sunken Spanish fleets and information about underwater archeology and the slave trade. Intricate models of other castles in Spain, Italy and Cuba can be found on the lower level and many cannons and artillery can be found on the upper level. Don’t plan on asking for any assistance, the staff has other things to do during the mid-day hours! Can anyone say siesta?

After taking in the castle’s interior, make sure to walk around the promenade that surrounds the castle. Here, you can check out dedications to other castles, statues, cannons and fantastic views of the channel, Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro, La Cabana and the Malecón. Take a moment to cross back over the roadway to check out the Monument to the Eight Medical Students, a Greek-style temple, built in 1890, in memory of the students executed in the city in 1871, who were accused of violating the grave of a Spanish journalist and the Real Carcel de La Habana, the remains of a 19th century jail where political figures were incarcerated.

*Monument to the Eight Medical Students*

At the beginning of my afternoon, one of the options I considered was making my way along the waterway on the Avenue Del Puerto. I had already seen so much of Havana and there was still so much on my agenda, especially in this area. It was hard to believe I had already seen so many interesting places.

With the walkway bordering the channel nearby, I decided that that would be my general direction. Sunset was many hours away, leaving me with ample time to continue my explorations…what else would I find in this beautiful, old city?

To be continued…

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Museo de Revolucion

Address: Calle Refugio 1 entre Monserrate y Zulueta, Havana 10600 Cuba
Hours: 0930-1600, daily
Admission: Adult Nationals, $8 CUC ($8 US), Under 12 years, free. Adults, International, $10 CUC ($10 US) Guided tours, $2 ($2 US), only available in Spanish. Ticket office open from 0930-1600.

Plaza 13 de Marzo and Statue of José Marti

Address: Agramonte (y Genios), Havana, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Monument to General Maximo Gomez

Address: Av. del Puerto Calle Desamparado/San Pedro, Havana Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta

Address: Paseo de Marti Prado y Av. del Puerto, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0900-1700, Wednesday to Sunday
Admission: $6 CUC ($6 US)

Monument to the Eight Medical Students

Address: 4JWR+4W, Havana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

At Fort Copa…To The Tune of Barry Manilow

Copacabana beach is a spectacle to behold.

Beautiful sands, highlighted by emerald waters and scantily clad bodies are what many visitors come to the city for!

Plus, who can’t stop the Barry Manilow song “Copacabana” playing in your head!

Having participated in and beheld the spectacle that is Rio’s Carnivale the night before, sleep was what I needed most, but I also did not want to miss out on a warm, cloudless day! Forcing myself up and out of bed, I decided to head to the beach, but realizing that I had somehow forgotten my bathing suit, I decided that scantily clad is not what I wanted to shoot for!

Deciding that I would still go to the beach, it would just be in a different capacity. At the far end of the beach is Fort Copacabana and the least I could do would be to squeeze in a bit of Rio’s culture and history.

As an Uber took me through the crowded streets, filled with revelers, I was glad that I was protected inside a vehicle as I watched a young girl lose her phone to a quick-footed thief! Thankfully, my driver safely deposited me at the entrance to the fort soon after!

There are a few items of interest in the entrance courtyard, including a shrine to Santa Barbara, as well as the ticket counter to obtain entry, but after entering its giant white-washed portal, it is the sumptuous views of the Copacapana beaches and and the pristine waters of the Atlantic ocean that grab your attention. There are a few pieces of military equipment lining the sea wall and a couple of quaint cafes here to enjoy the views.

Dating back to its inception in 1914, the fort is a museum which showcases many exhibits pertaining to the Brazilian Army. It was one of the most modern installations of its time and was constructed to guard the entrance to Guanabara Bay and the adjacent coastline.

In 1922, the fort was involved in an unsuccessful military uprising but was eventually converted into the Army History Museum when there was no need for Coast Artillery Batteries.

The Army History Museum is the first part of the property that can be toured. It is filled with military memorabilia and exhibits on the Brazilian military’s history.

Continuing along the walkway, I entered the actual fort and made my way through each of the exhibits, some showcasing ammunitions and others, the living and work spaces of the soldiers assigned there I marveled at the beautiful tile work and iron works decorating the arched doorways. Exploring the infirmary and engine rooms, I made my way throughout the passageways, some decorated with dioramas depicting various events in the history of Brazil.

Of special interest within the main building is the small Chapel of the Senora of Copacabana. The fort was built on the peninsula where the original church of the Nossa Senhora de Copacabana was located and the shrine gave the soldiers a place to worship and pray.

The exterior and its grounds were a maze of walkways leading to the top of the fort where the ocean’s mighty waves crashed against its base and on its topmost location is a mighty cannon. It is the perfect place to grab a spot and enjoy the beauty of not only the fort but Rio itself.

So I didn’t get to enjoy the sunshine that afternoon at the beach. I got to enjoy the sunshine at the Fort while soaking up some of Brazil’s rich history. I think that is better than any tan!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Historical Museum of the Army and Copacabana Fort

http://www.mhexfc.eb.mil.br/pt-br/
Address: Praça Coronel Eugênio Franco, 1, Rio de Janeiro – RJ 22070-020, Brazil
Hours: 1000-1800, Tuesday to Sunday. Closed Mondays.
Admission: Adults, R $6, Students, Teachers, Seniors, 60+ and Youth ID holders, R $3. Free, Members of the military and dependents, Seniors over 80 years, Disabled, Children under 6 years, Tour guides

The First Shots

There was one thing that I wanted to do while in Charleston but it can sometimes be tricky during the winter.

Fort Sumter.

Less frequent boat schedules and colder weather are sometimes off-putting, so, when I noticed that temperatures were going to be unseasonably warm while I would be in Charleston, I decided that my plan would be a “go”.

Armed with a few layers and an umbrella (just in case), I headed over to the Liberty Square with an intent to catch the afternoon boat. Though it is recommended to purchase tickets in advance during the busier months, I found no problem in purchasing one at the last minute at the National Park Visitor Center.

The Visitor Center offers information about the Fort and its history to browse before boarding the boat and I read through the information while awaiting our boarding time.

The boat, a pseudo paddle wheeler, soon pulled adjacent to the pier. Taking a spot in the front of the boat, I enjoyed the breezy thirty minute ride to the island.

Once we arrived, we were given sixty minutes to tour the fort and the island. National Parks rangers greeted us at the pier and instructed those wanting to take part in the close-of-the-day flag ceremony to follow them to the upper part of the fort. Interesting as that sounded, I was more interested in taking unobstructed photographs, so I used this time, while others were occupied, to walk around the fort.

Construction began on the fort in 1829 and was named for Revolutionary War general and South Carolina native, Thomas Sumter. The fort was one of fifty built as part of a coastal defense program implemented by Congress in 1817 and was erected on a man-made island entirely formed from thousands of tons of granite. It was the site of the Battle of Fort Sumter in 1861, where a thirty-four hour exchange of artillery fire…the first shots of the Civil War…let to a surrender and the occupation by Confederate troops. After the Civil War, the fort was restored by the U.S. military and occupied during the Spanish-American War (1898), World War I (1914-1918) and World War II (1939-1945). In 1948, the fort was decommissioned as a military post and turned over to the National Park Service as a National Historic Site.

Although the fort is built on an 2.4 acre island, there is much to discover including the Powder magazine (where Fort Sumter’s powder was stored) the Gorge Wall (the lightly-armed rear wall facing inland) the Battery Huger (named for War hero, Isaac Huger) and a small museum highlighting the fort’s history and items from its occupation. There are a large number and variety of cannons throughout the property and on the top level, a beautiful view of the bay and Fort Johnson, the site where the first shots of the Civil War were fired from.

An hour goes by pretty quickly and after I had captured my last photograph, the rangers were ushering us out to the waiting boat prepared to take us back to Liberty Square. As the sun was going down, so was the temperature and it was nice to take a seat inside, especially since they were now serving adult beverages!

Nothing like a good adult beverage on a sunset cruise!

That’s what is so great about a visit to Fort Sumter…it’s a two-for-one tour! You not only get a lesson on Civil War history, you get a cruise of the harbor, complete with after-hour beverages. You can even step it up and add to the theme! Have a “shot”!!!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Fort Sumter

https://www.nps.gov/fosu/index.htm
Address: 340 Concord Street, Charleston, SC 29401
Hours: Ferry Schedule, See Below. National Park Visitor Center, 0830-1700
Admission: Adults (ages 12-61), $24, Seniors and Active Military (62+/Military ID), $22, Children (ages 4-11), $16, Infant (ages under 3), free

Fort Sumter Boat Schedule

Date	Liberty Square – Downtown Charleston	Patriots Point – Mount Pleasant
Jan 2 – Feb 28	11:00 am, 2:30 pm	1:00 pm
Mar 1 – Mar 14	9:30 am, 12:00 pm & 2:30 pm	10:30 am, 1:00 pm
Mar 15-Aug 20 & Labor Day Weekend	9:30 am, 12:00 pm, 2:30 pm & 4:00 pm	10:30 am, 1:00 pm & 3:30 pm**
Aug 21 – Nov 30	9:30 am, 12:00 pm & 2:30 pm	10:30 am, 1:00 pm
Dec 1 – Dec 24	11:00am, 2:30 pm	1:00 pm
Dec 26 – Dec 31	9:30 am, 12:00 pm & 2:30 pm	10:30 am, 1:00 pm
Thanksgiving, Dec 25 & Jan 1	Fort Closed	Fort Closed

The Castle of Saint George

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

When visiting Lisbon, its hard to miss the imposing structure that presides over the city on the highest hilltop.

Castelo de São Jorge….The Castle of Saint George.

One of the oldest edifices in Lisbon, the castle is also one of the most visited sites in the capital city. Once housing Portuguese troops and Vasco da Gama during his stays in Lisbon after his returns from sea voyages, it later acted as the residence of the Moorish royals. It was conquered in 1147 by Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal and was named after Saint George, the patron saint of England, due to the assistance received by Portugal from the English. The castle retained its function as a residence of kings until King Manuel I ordered the construction of the Ribeira Palace, which became the new royal seat in the 16th century.

After the move, the castle was no longer utilized and fell into a long period of decay, with the earthquake of 1755 causing irreparable damage. Today, after a complete restoration in 1938, what visitors to the site experience are the main walls of the fortifications, several rebuilt rooms and eleven towers, including the Tower of Ulysses, which houses the Camera Obscura, offering a 360 degree of the city, the Tower of the Keep, the Tower of Riches (or Trumbling Tower), Tower of the Palace, Tower of the Cistern and Tower of St. Lawrence.

After the long walk uphill toward the castle and waiting in line to purchase tickets just outside the castle walls, we entered and made our way to the outer fortifications which overlook the city. Panoramic views are on display and for the first-timer to Lisbon, this is an outstanding way to garner an understanding of how the city is laid out. I must admit, it took my breath away!

A restaurant is located here on the promenade and wine vendors offer Portuguese samplings to quench your thirst in the hot, sunny afternoons.

Making our way into the interior of the structure, we marveled at the towering walls and walked along the ramparts admiring both the views and the wind whipping the country’s flags.

Ruins of older structures and a cistern were visible in the courtyard as well as a small door on the northern wall called the Door of Treason which allowed secret messengers to enter or exit as needed. Take a moment to have a seat in one of the garden areas and admire the many pieces of sculptures that adorn the premises. The gardens of Castelo de St. Jorge is a place to be cherished as it is one of the only remaining green spaces in Lisbon where native species of the Portuguese forest hold court. Here, visitors can observe trees such as cork oaks, carobs, strawberry, umbrella pines and various fruit trees.

While there are other, more beautiful and more preserved castles throughout the country, Castelo de St. Jorge is easy to reach and is rich in history. More importantly, with its prominent location high above the city, it is the perfect place to start your exploration of the Portuguese capital.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Castelo de São Jorge

http://castelodesaojorge.pt/pt/
Address: R. de Santa Cruz do Castelo, 1100-129 Lisboa, Portugal
Hours: November 1-February 28, 0900-1800, daily. March 1-October 31, 0900-2100, daily. Closed December 24, 25, 31, January 1, May 1.
Admission: Adults, 8.50€, Students under 25 years, 5€, Family (2 adults, 2 children) 20€, Seniors (over 65), 5€

By Land and By Sea

Two forts, one city.

My favorite thing about San Juan is its two forts, Castillo San Felipe del Morro and San Cristobal. Having visited both two times before, you would think that I would look to find something else. Well, there are lots of other things in Old Town, but I never tire of these old structures…truly a photographers dream!

Castillo San Felipe del Morro and San Cristóbal, are two forts that were built to protect the city, the former from attacks from the sea and the latter, attacks from land.

Exiting our cruise ship, the first thing on my agenda was San Cristóbal. Near the port, I knew that it was a short walk that would take me through Plaza de Colón and to the gates of the fort. Starting early, to make the most of our short time in San Juan, I could beat the crowds, photograph to my hearts content, still stroll the city and also see El Morro.

Castillo San Cristóbal, a San Juan Historic Site, stands guard at the eastern gate, the land entrance, to the walled city of Old San Juan. After 149 years of construction, the fort was completed in 1783, although modifications were made throughout next century. The fortification covered about 27 acres of land, sitting on a hill originally known as the Cerro de la Horca, and basically wrapped around the city of San Juan allowing entry through its heavily guarded double gates.

Although the largest fortification built by the Spanish in the New World stood ready to defend the city against land attacks, not much action was seen. A land attack by the British in 1797 (under the command of Sir Ralph Abercrombe) did not make it as far as the fort and until 1898, the only dilemma was a 24 hour mutiny by soldiers living inside the fort against the Spanish crown. Finally, in 1898, the first shots of the Spanish-American War were fired when Puerto Rico was under military attack from U.S. Navy warships. Though the Spanish military attempted to retaliate, its old cannons and the fort could not withstand the assault, surrendering within 24 hours. Only six months later, Puerto Rico became a territory of the United States.

After Puerto Rico’s acquisition, the United States maintained an active military base at the fort with the additions of concrete pillboxes and an underground bunker control center during World War II. In 1961, once the U.S. Army vacated the premises, the U.S. National Park Service gained control and San Cristobal and El Morro were designated as museums and both were also declared as World Heritage Sites by the United Nations.

Over the years, with the city’s growth, part of San Cristóbal and a large segment of the city wall was was demolished to allow for flow of traffic in and out of the city.

The fort has two entrances, one off of Norzagaray Street and one off of Munoz Rivera Avenue. Since I was coming from the cruise ship terminal, I entered from the latter, however, the former is much more dramatic and one used by those coming from El Morro along the route near the water. If you choose to enter from Munoz Rivera, make sure to exit from other entrance to admire its sweeping ramp and grand appearance.

There are many things to see within the fort that can be observed with or without a guide. Three popular tours offered include, The Tunnels Tour which offer treks through the tunnels of the fort and include historical information about these hidden defenses, The Outworks Tour, which brings you to the outworks to see the land defenses and the The Lantern Light Tour, offered twice a week, which informs of soldier’s lives within the fort. In addition, every hour on the hour, free 20-30 minute Daily Orientation Talks are led by park rangers which explain life in the fort.

Since I had opted not to participate in one of the daily walks or tours, I was on my own with my map, looking forward to seeing all of the things that make San Cristóbal special.

Beginning with the short movie that is run continuously throughout the day, on the hour and the half hour (Spanish on the quarter and three quarters of the hour), I learned about the battles and the construction of the forts. Some of the relics from the forts times of battle are also on display in the Visitor Center.

Continuing through the long tunnel, I then found myself in the heart of the fort. There are so many passageways to explore, it is quite a bit difficult to determine, at times, which way to go. Some of the main items you want to make sure you see are:

Tunnel Systems: There are many tunnels to explore throughout the fort, one in particular, leading to the dungeon.

Cisterns: These extremely large cisterns were used for the transport of water during the times of the Spanish Colony and also used as bomb shelters during World War II.

Santa Barbara Chapel: Located in the central plaza, the chapel was built for the fort’s occupants to offer prayers and worship. Santa Barbara is the patron saint of persons in danger of fire and explosions and for this reason, the chapel was especially important to the cannoneers working with their dangerous weapons.

Military Uniforms: A display of uniforms of the soldiers gives insight into how uncomfortable these men must have been in the Caribbean heat. Made of wool and/or cotton, they were layered and included coats and tights.

Living Quarters: Beds, uniforms and dining tables are displayed to show how the troops’ quarters looked when the fort was in use. Make sure to check out the window shutters with graffiti etched into it…ships, dates and Spanish words.

Cannon Balls: There are many piles of cannonballs, weighing approximately 200 pounds each, on the upper level of the fort.

Flags: Check out the flags blowing in the breeze, the United States flag, the Puerto Rican flag and the Cross of Burgundy flag. The latter is a white flag with a red X and was t he Spanish military flag used from the 16th to 18th centuries to identify warships, forts and regiments of troops loyal to the king of Spain.

Sentry Boxes (Garitas): Located around the outer walls of the fort, the garitas offered a vantage point to watchmen who were guarding the shore. One particular garita, Garita del Diablo, located by itself close to the water in one of the oldest parts of the fort, is of particular interest to tourists. Legend tells that guards on duty in this garita, would disappear, taken away by the devel. Though stories must have run rampant during this time, it was more likely that the guards took advantage of the garitas remote location to escape. Though this sentry box is inaccessible to tourists, it can still be seen. There are many other garitas that can be entered and used for photo opportunities.

Outworks: To the east of the fort is a large stretch of lawn along with some buildings. This is the Outworks of the fort. Take a walk around the area to the the layers of defense (moats and walls) from a different perspective.

With so much to enjoy here, take your time to see all parts of San Cristobal. In addition to the photo opportunities it provides within its walls, its city and coastal views are incredible! I could see both the Carnival Sunshine and Royal Caribbean’s ships docked as well as other beautiful buildings throughout the city. Make sure to stand along the water side and take in the panoramic views of the coast from Old San Juan to Condado and beyond…truly spectacular!

After leaving San Cristóbal, it is approximately a one mile picturesque walk to Castillo San Felipe del Morro along Calle Norzagaray. Since I wanted to stroll through the center of town, doing some shopping along the way, I used Calle Fortaleza then, Calle Clara Lair to the Old City Gate. Walking along the outer walls on the Paseo de Morro, I walked along the water, looking out to El Canuelo, another smaller fortification on Goat Island, and made my way through the grounds of Castillo San Felipe del Morro to the front entrance.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro, or El Morro, as it is affectionately known, sits high atop a bluff overlooking the entrance to San Juan Bay. One of the largest fortifications built by the Spanish in the Caribbean, it took over 250 years to complete (1787) and was built to protect San Juan from invaders by sea.

After crossing the bridge to the fort, I showed my receipt from San Cristóbal and began my own tour of El Morro.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro, named in honor of King Philip II of Spain, lies on the northwestern-most point of the islet of Old San Juan. Construction of the citadel and its surrounding walls began in 1539, on orders of King Charles V of Spain, seeking a way to defend the port of San Juan by controlling entry to the harbor. The final design, drawn up in 1587, was based on Spanish military fortification principles of that time and similar structures can be seen throughout the Caribbean and Latin America in Cuba, Dominican Republic, Mexico, Panama, Guatemala and Honduras.

El Morro’s six levels rise from the sea to a height of 145 feet and offer an imposing sight to those arriving by sea. Nevertheless, El Morro suffered many attacks over the years, from the English in both 1595 and 1598 and from the Dutch in 1625. During the Spanish-American War, U.S. Navy ships fired upon El Morro, destroying the lighthouse. As mentioned above, the war ended with the Treaty of Paris, in which Spain ceded ownership of islands of Puerto Rico to the United States.

After the U.S. acquired Puerto Rico, many government buildings, including El Morro, became part of a large U.S. Army post, Fort Brooke. The large green space in front of El Morro was filled with a hospital, officer’s quarters, officer’s club and sports facilities. The U.S. Army also added a massive concrete bunker to the top of El Morro to serve as a Harbor Defense Fire Control Station, during World War II, to watch for German submarines.

In 1961, the fort became part of the National Park Service when the United States Army officially retired from the fort. Declared a World Heritage Site by the United Nations, the esplanade was cleared and restored giving citizens and visitors a wide open space to enjoy the sunny Caribbean days. Today you can see many people flying kites in the afternoon trade winds, a beautiful site with the castillo in the background.

While walking through the ancient fortification, make sure to take in the case mates, where countless arms were fired and the chapel, where no doubt many a soldier prayed for redemption and safety. As with San Cristóbal, check out the sentry boxes, or garitas scattered throughout the structures upper levels.

My favorite part, however, is the restored lighthouse. Sitting 180 feet above sea level, the lighthouse was completed in 1908. On the upper levels you can also see the same three flags flown on San Cristóbal…the U.S. flag, the Puerto Rican flag and the Cross of Burgundy flag.

Looking out at the massive grounds, the property spreads out along 70 acres, including the killing grounds and the esplanade. Nearby, you can see the nearby Cemetery of Santa Maria Magdalena de Pazzi.

An interesting fact about El Morro was that it was used as a film set in 1996 for the movie, Amistad, directed by Steven Spielberg, representing a fort in Sierra Leone, where slaves were auctioned in 1839. Interesting indeed, since slave labor was used to build El Morro.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro is a most amazing structure and if you arrive or depart on a cruise ship, you are in for a treat! In the afternoon sunlight, you glide right by the Old City Gate, Paseo de Morro and the regal El Morro perched high on its promontory. One of the most beautiful sights of Puerto Rico!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Castillo San Cristobal

https://www.nps.gov/saju/index.htm
San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
Hours: Open daily, 0900-1800, closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day
Admission: Adult, $7.00, Children under 15 years, free. Admission covers entrance to both forts.
Tunnels Tour: English, 1030, Wednesday, 1030 and 1430, Saturdays. Spanish, 1430, Wednesday and 1030 and 1230, Sundays. Approximately 1 hour, maximum group size, 15 people. Sign up at the front desk prior to the tour.
Outworks Tour: Spanish, Saturdays, 1430, English, Sundays, 1430.
Lantern Light Tour: Spanish, Sundays, 1800-1900, English, Tuesdays, 1800-1900. Ranger led.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro

https://www.nps.gov/saju/index.htm
Address: 501 Calle Norzagaray, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
Hours: Open daily, 0900-1800, closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day
Admission: Adult, $7.00, Children under 15 years, free. Admission covers entrance to both forts.
Tours: El Morro, Keystone to Protection of the Spanish Empire Tour, English, Saturdays, 1030 English and Sundays, 1430. Spanish, Saturdays, 1430 and Sundays, 1030. Short informational talks are available every day in the main plaza of Castillo San Felipe del Morro

Make sure to wear comfortable shoes when visiting either of the forts as some of the flooring can be uneven, slippery and offer lots of stairways and bring lots of water, especially on hot days as the heat is intensified by the stone.

The Danish Fort

Antsy…

That’s me. I used to be the person who loved lying in the sun all day. Now, I still do, but I get these nagging thoughts that I should also being doing something a little more culturally stimulating.

While in St. Thomas, there were so many beaches and islands that we wanted to check out, but I knew that there were some interesting landmarks that I wanted to visit as well.

As we drove through Charlotte Amalie, after our arrival, we passed by Fort Christian. A lovely, dark red building, the fantastic clock tower caught my attention. I knew that we needed to come on another day to explore!

‘After a few rain showers blew through and the skies decided to remain cloudy, I persuaded my family that we should drive into town to see the fort…the fact that there is a souvenir market next door and the promise of some cool t-shirts cemented the deal.

Fort Christian, named for the Danish King Christian V, originated with Governor Jorgen Iversen, after his arrival on May 25, 1672. Four years later, the outer walls and a three story oval tower, Trygborg, had been completed. The fort served its purpose over the years, successfully defending St. Thomas from the French among others, however, it was demilitarized during the 1870s. Undergoing enlargement and repair, it later served as the police headquarters of the Virgin Islands, as well as a town center, a government building and a jail.

A basic square structure with stone curtain walls and diamond-shaped stone bastions at the corners, the Tyygborg tower and north curtain were eventually demolished as well as other parts of the fort. The current Gothic Revival structure, with its Victorian clock tower, which serves as an entrance, was eventually built to replace the north curtain in the 18th century. Today, the bastions and the rooftop can be accessed as well as the living quarters that were later added.

We enjoyed visiting the lower level which houses former cells, displays detailing the fort’s history, chapel and the living quarters. These areas are filled with antiques and gives an idea of the living standards at the time. We did not have a tour guide as we arrived just before three o’clock (last admitting time) however, having an escort would have been a benefit in learning more about the history of the structure and the role it played in protecting the island’s harbor.

Enjoy a visit to Fort Christian…take the time to make your way up top and look out toward the water, the cruise ships and the mountains….you might even spot the Governor’s house! The views are truly fantastic! And when you are done…grab an ice cream or snow-cone to beat the heat and maybe even a souvenir t-shirt!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Fort Christian

https://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/prvi/pr29.htm
Address: Forte Strade, Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas 00801, USVI
Hours: Monday-Friday, 0830-1600. Last admittance, 1500.
Admission: Non-local Adult, $!0, Children, ages 5-12, $7. Local (with ID), $5. Students (school-aged in uniform and/or with ID), $3. Children (4 years and under): free.