Crazy For Crazy Horse

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Imagining sites that I wanted to experience in South Dakota, it was a given what might top the list (hint…four president’s).

Honestly, I have to admit that I didn’t know much more about other attractions within the state. It was a dream of mine to see those four presidential heads lined up on a rockface in the Black Hills, but anything else I encountered was lagniappe. Those I had spoken to insisted that I not to miss the Crazy Horse memorial, but aside from thinking it was a statue, I didn’t know very much about it or its history.

Upon my departure from Mount Rushmore, I followed my GPS in the direction of Crazy Horse’s address, admiring the stunning natural beauty along the way. A short, 16 miles later, I was pulling onto the premises.

Now, where was this statue?

Was I in for a surprise! Heading inside the welcome center and museum, I learned something, that many of you might laugh at, because I didn’t already know.

Crazy Horse wasn’t merely a statue, but in fact, a massive sculpture being carved from a nearby mountain. Under construction since 1948, the mountain monument, much like Mount Rushmore, will depict Oglala Lakota warrior, Crazy Horse, riding a horse and pointing to his tribal land.

Looking out to Thunderhead Mountain from the viewing deck, I was a bit baffled. I could see that the top part of the mountain was resembling a man looking to the west, but that was about it.

Watching the film offering, I learned that the memorial was being constructed on sacred Lakota land and was commissioned by Henry Standing Bear, a Oglala Lakota chief. Sculpturer Korczak Ziolkowski, a friend of Henry Standing Bear, was chosen to carry out the Lakota’s monumental plans and he and his descendants have worked tirelessly over the years to see it to the finish.

But who was Crazy Horse?

A war leader of the Oglala Lakota, Crazy Horse took on the fight against the United States federal government to stop the encroachments on the territories and way of life of the Lakota people. After surrendering in May 1877, he was fatally wounded while imprisoned at Camp Robinson, Nebraska.

In the 1940s, the world saw the completion of Mount Rushmore in the Black Hills. Henry Standing Bear had learned that a monument to his cousin, Crazy Horse, was being planned for construction in Fort Robinson, Nebraska. Standing Bear, persuaded James Cook, spearheader of the project, to abandon plans so that a monument of spiritual significance to the Lakota people could be constructed on Lakota land and one which would honor his relative.

After acquiescing to Henry Standing Bear’s persuasion to undertake the massive project, Ziolkowski, formulated a plan to create a monument that captured Crazy Horse’s likeness, which depicts the Native American riding his horse, left hand gesturing forward, showing the lands of his ancestors. Today, you can see the completed face and a long smooth piece of granite stretching out before him. There is some etching on the rock walls resembling a horse, however, it was quite difficult to envision what is to come.

I did not have to go far to find the answer. Near where I was standing on the deck, there was a sculpture’s model. As I studied this representation, it was much easier to comprehend the plan. The large scale sculpture on the mountain is planned to be 641 feet long and 563 feet high. The arm of Crazy Horse will be 263 feet long and the head 87 feet high. An impressive feat, it will be the second largest statue in the world behind the Statue of Unity in India.

What still confounded me, however, was that it only took fourteen years to complete Mount Rushmore. After seventy-three years, there was still a great deal to complete here. As I took the shuttle bus tour to the base of the mountain, I learned that no federal money has been accepted from the government. All construction is operated by the Crazy Horse Memorial Foundation, a nonprofit organization, and paid for with funds earned from the Welcome Center and museum and from private donations. The current plan is that in ten years, the arm of Crazy Horse will be complete.

Thinking ahead, I sadly realized that the culmination of this stunning monument will probably not be in my lifetime.

Returning to the Welcome Center, I made my way through its entirety, enjoying each of the museums offered under its roof.

The Indian Museum of North America, created by Korczak Ziolkowski and his wife, Ruth, was constructed to feature American Indian art and artifacts from tribal Nations across North American. The museum itself is an architectural delight, large and airy and built from ponderosa pine, harvested and milled at the Crazy Horse memorial site. Its interior is filled with carvings, paintings, clothing items, canoes, tools, artwork and teepees.

The Mountain Carving Gallery is a tribute to the story of the mountain. Here you can see tools that Korczak used when he began the project, including a half size replica of a wooden basked used with an aerial cable car run by an antique Chevy engine that enabled him to haul equipment and tools up the mountain. It is here that you can also learn more about the phases of carving each of the components of the sculpture. Take heed of the cart in the far corner. Small chunks of granite, gathered and removed from the mountain after blasting, are available for visitors for a small donation. An amazing piece of history that can be passed on to your children and grandchildren!

Another museum, depicts Korczak’s home and studio. After living in a tent for his first seven months, he constructed a log cabin and studio home, so well-built that it still remains part of the Visitor’s Center. His home was filled with antiques and original works of sculpture and these are on display today, including a Marie Antoinette mirror, Louis XVI chairs and carvings of those he admired.

A variety of items are on display in Korczak’s workshop, including wood, bronze, marble and casts. Of particular interest is his wooden toolbox made when he was 18 years old and a full-sized, original Concord Stagecoach, restored by him and his family.

Though the Native American Educational and Cultural Center was not open, I was able to take a peek inside through its glass doors. Hands-on activities and instructions in American Indian history and culture are provided here and it serves as an outlet for artists to sell their work during the busier months of the year. A collection of Edward Curtis photogravure prints of the American West and the Native American peoples are displayed on the lower level as well as an Exhibit of the American Bison, detailing its story from its prehistoric origins in North America to its near extinction.

If taking home a distinctive reminder of your visit is important, do not forget the treasure-filled gift shop with skillfully crafted mementos lining its walls and filling its showcases.

Thankfully, I had arrived with enough time to see all of the museums and the entire premises. Having expected “just a statue” I discovered so much more and walked away with a much greater appreciation for what has been and is being accomplished. Though I will probably never get to see Crazy Horse’s completion before I move on, eventually, through the tireless efforts of the Ziolkowski family, one day, it will stand tall and proud, high above Lakota land…a symbol of courage and heritage.

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Crazy Horse Memorial

  • https://crazyhorsememorial.org/
  • Address: 2151 Avenue of the Chiefs, Crazy Horse, South Dakota 57730
  • Hours: Welcome Center and The Museums of the Memorial, January 4-March 16, 0900-1700, daily. March 17-May 11, 0800-1900. May 12-May 27, 0800-2000. May 28-September 6, 0800- 30 minutes after laser light show. September 7-October 3, 0800-2000. October 4-October 11. 0800-1800.
  • Hours: Bus to Base – A closer look of the Mountain from the base, January 4-March 16, 1000-1600. March 17-May 11, 0900-1800. May 12-May 27, 0900-1900. May 28-September 6, 8:30 am – the last boarding 1.5 hours before the Laser Light Show begins. September 7-October 3, 0900-1900. October 4-October 11. 0900-1700.
  • Admission: January 1-May 27, $30.00, 3 or more people in a vehicle. $24.00, 2 people in a vehicle. $12.00, 1 person in a vehicle. $7.00, per person on a motorcycle, bicycle or walking. May 28-October 11, $35.00, 3 or more people in a vehicle. $30.00, 2 people in a vehicle. $15.00, 1 person in a vehicle. $10.00, per person on a motorcycle, bicycle or walking. No parking fees.

Heads Up

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The length of my bucket list sometimes keeps me up at night.

How will I ever complete everything?

Since many things will have to remain unchecked at least for now, due to Covid19, I am trying to enjoy some of the things that are close at hand. Maybe some things, by necessity, have suddenly appeared on my list, but some of them have always been there!

When I say close at hand, it is understandable that not being able to travel outside the country has forced us to take a closer look at the amazing places that are within our boundaries. Since I can’t go gorilla trekking in Uganda right now, I can certainly travel within the United States and mark off a few things, like Mount Rushmore.

Unbelievably, I don’t ever remember having been to South Dakota. Maybe I spent a short night while on one of my trips for work, but not enough time to see anything that this beautiful state has to offer.

Pondering my bucket list situation one night, I packed a bag and decided that I would leave for Mount Rushmore in the morning. It was now…or now (I didn’t want to say never)…and I really needed to get out of the house!

As luck would have it, it was a good travel day and I made all three of my flights, arriving in Rapid City around eleven. My rental car took me to my downtown hotel, where I dropped my bags and quickly freshened up. With sunset so early in the winter day, I knew that it was imperative to make the most of the daylight. Thankfully, Mount Rushmore is only a short drive from the downtown area and I made the trip in a quick twenty-five minutes.

As I navigated the winding road, aware that I was getting close, I looked up ahead at a passing truck and there it was! I had not been prepared to see this amazing landmark from the highway and I had to slow my speed and pull over to take a better look. It was mesmerizing!

While most people opt to visit Mount Rushmore during the warmer summer months, I realized as I pulled into a mostly empty parking garage that visiting during the winter has its advantages.

And disadvantages.

Improvements to the property certainly cannot be done during the busy times of the year, so as I made my way down the Avenue of the Flags, which display flags of all fifty states, the District of Columbia and the three territories, Guam, American Samoa and Virgin Islands, I had to maneuver around construction equipment, detours and closed off areas. As I arrived on the Grand View Terrace, I finally laid my eyes on the colossal sculpture, sans the massive crowds that flock here during the summer…another advantage of my November visit.

Looking down at the unoccupied amphitheater seating, it dawned on me how many people I could actually be sharing this space with. Yes, it was cold, but there was no one to my left and no one to my right…perfect for social distancing.

As luck would have it, the weather, which could be volatile at this time of year was cooperating. Although a few clouds dipped low, occasionally obscuring the upper portions of the the carvings, blue skies prevailed and we were all treated with beautiful views.

After feasting my eyes, I headed inside the Visitor’s Center to warm up and learn about the famous carvings’ history, much of which I did not know.

Mount Rushmore was the brainchild of Gutzon Borglum. With an idea of carving the four Presidents, Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt and Lincoln, from the waist up, construction began in 1927 and took fourteen years to complete. When funding ran out, only the heads were completed. The Presidents represent the nation’s birth, development, growth and preservation. There are many exhibits in the Visitor’s Center explaining their construction as well as a short film.

Although I saw the entrance to the Presidential Trail, which gives hikers a closer look, I was not quite sure of how much time it would entail. With my plans including continuing on to the Crazy Horse Memorial, a short drive away, I decided to skip this portion of the grounds.

Jumping back into my now freezing car, I cranked up the heat and headed out to Highway 244. Not long into my journey, I learned that I wasn’t quite done with my visit to Mount Rushmore. From the roadway, behind the park, there is a great view of the profile of George Washington’s 60 foot head, 20 foot nose and 18 foot wide mouth. Pull over to the side of the road or in the adjacent parking lot and keep an eye out for the many mountain goats that hang out in the area.

This was the icing on the cake!

Twenty four hours earlier, I had not planned to be here and now I was gazing up at the profile of our nation’s first president.

With my head held high, I gave myself a personal pat on the back for making this happen. I then placed a mental check on my bucket list while looking up at this important piece of our nation’s history.

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Mount Rushmore

  • https://www.nps.gov/moru/index.htm
  • Address: 13000 Highway 244, Building 31, Suite 1, Keystone, SD 57751
  • Hours: October 1 through March 13, 0500-2100, March 14 through September 30, 0500-2300.
  • Admission: free admission
  • Parking: Cars, Motorcycles and RVs, $10.00 per vehicle. Seniors (ages 62+), $5.00 per vehicle. Free for Active Duty Military.

Forts and Beaches

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How do you combine history with a day at the beach?

In Key West, you can take a boat tour to the Dry Tortugas. On this island, seventy miles west of Key West, visitors can tour Fort Jefferson, bask in the sun and snorkel the clear waters of the Caribbean. A long ferry ride for a short time on the island? Surely there must be a better way!

Fort Zachary Taylor State Park on the southern part of the Key West, also offers a historic fort and a beach.

Built in the mid-1800s, Fort Zachary Taylor was one of three strongholds built to defend the southeastern United States coastline. Completed in 1866, it played significant roles in both the Civil War and the Spanish-American War and played a key role in guarding the harbor of Key West.

The fort, built by Irish brick masons, is two and a half stories tall and forms a trapezoid. Towering over fifty feet about the water, it walls are five feet thick. Back in its heyday, the fort housed 198 cannons and 450 men.

Only a few cannons (and none of the men) are in existence today, but we were able to walk along the top of the walls, enjoying the ocean views and in the inner areas where the remaining cannons are housed. There are multiple displays detailing life in the fort and ammunitions in the areas which once housed the barracks and if you are lucky, you might spy one of the iguanas that call the fort home.

After we had made our way throughout the historic structure, we exited the gates and took the Tropical Hammock Trail leading to the Fort Zachary Taylor State Park beach, passing the remains of the old Blacksmith Shop along the way.

Our walk wasn’t a long one and we found a rocky beach edged with calm waters and palm trees.

After we secured two chairs and an umbrella, it was time for some relaxation. The beach was decent, however, paying more for two chairs and an umbrella than we had in the Greek Isles, was a bit surprising. In addition, we were also glad to have brought snacks as the concession stand’s pricing was on the high side. As far as a refreshing swim was concerned, the water was dark and cloudy and extremely warm. Taking some time to relax together and get some sun seemed to be the only benefit of our visit.

So, while we enjoyed the fort and beach’s close proximity to the other attractions in Key West, what we expected was not what we got. I had seen the pictures of Fort Jefferson in the Dry Tortugas and maybe that skewed my perception of what we would be experiencing in Key West. Though I enjoyed the fort I felt we were a bit short-changed on the beach side.

Next time, I think I’m paying for that long ride to the Dry Tortugas!

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Fort Zachary Taylor State Park

  • https://www.floridastateparks.org/parks-and-trails/fort-zachary-taylor-historic-state-park
  • Address: 601 Howard England Way, Key West FL 33040
  • Hours: 0800-sundown, daily
  • Admission: $6.00 per vehicle (2-8 people). Pedestrians, bicyclists, extra passengers, passengers in vehicle with holder of Annual Individual Entrance Pass (Monroe County surcharge included in this price), $2.50. Single-occupant vehicle or motorcycle (Monroe County surcharge included in this price), $4.50.
  • Beach Amenities: Two chairs and umbrella, $30.00. Concessions and watersport rentals vary.

The Key to Lighting The Way

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Having visited lighthouses in Ghana, Cuba and the Outer Banks of North Carolina, I know what great views can be had from the top.

When I spotted the Key West Lighthouse while we were visiting the Hemingway House from the upper terrace, I knew that a long winding staircase was in my future.

The next morning.

My husband’s future? Not really.

As we walked down the street in the early morning heat, he decided to duck into a small restaurant and enjoy a cold drink. Seeing the island from a bird’s eye view and exerting a great deal of energy first thing in the morning did not seem all that enticing when all he wanted to do was lay on a beach.

Off I went, on my own, anxious to see if there was anything that made this particular lighthouse, well…particular.

As I stood at the bottom of the towering beacon, gazing upward and taking a breath, I entered and began the climb. Eighty-eight steps to the top, I finally made it, occasionally stopping to to catch my breath and peer out of the random porthole.

The views of the island were breathtaking and the waters surrounding the island were glistening in the morning sun. It was enlightening to find the landmarks noted on the signs attached to the rail and as I scanned the horizon, I spotted some of the attractions I was interested in visiting. The best attraction that I spotted, however, was my husband, sitting on the porch of the restaurant drinking his Diet Coke…and was that a piece of Key Lime pie?

At the base of the lighthouse, I stopped for a minute to admire one of the life-like statues that grace the lighthouse and museum’s grounds and then headed over to the lighthouse keeper’s former home, now a museum.

The first lighthouse on the island was built in 1825 near the Southernmost Point. After it was destroyed by a hurricane in 1846, this new lighthouse was constructed inland on Whitehead Street and completed in 1848.

As I moved through the museum, I learned that the first lighthouse keeper was a woman, nearly unheard of during that time period. Many upgrades were completed over the years, including the installation of a Third Order Fresnel Lens which allowed the lens to be seen from a greater distance, the addition of the Keeper’s Quarters and the installation of electricity. Though the lighthouse served Key West and its maritime visitors and passersby for many years, it was decommissioned in 1969.

A large number of photographs lined the walls of the museum and a couple of the rooms were staged to allow a look into how the lighthouse keepers and their families lived. There were many other nautical items and aged lens displayed throughout the gallery.

Other buildings on the premises

Though the lighthouse has not been in use for many years, it has played an important part of Key West’s maritime heritage and is now an important part of Key West’s tourism. There are many things to see and do in Key West and this is one of the ones that all visitors should see.

Was it worth the sweltering climb?

Yes, because I got the views and key lime pie in the end!

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Key West Lighthouse and Keeper’s Quarters Museum

  • https://www.kwahs.org/museums/lighthouse-keepers-quarters/visit
  • Address: 938 Whitehead Street, Key West, Florida 33040
  • Hours: Monday through Saturday, 1000-1600
  • Admission: Adults, $17.00 ($15.40 online), Senior/Local/College ID/Retired Military, $12.00 ($10.30 online), Youth (ages 7-18), $8.00 ($6.30 online), Children (under 7), free, Active Military, free

The Little White House

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

While on vacation, there are some things that I want to visit.

There are some things that my husband wants to visit.

Then, there are the things that we both want to visit.

While in Key West, Harry S. Truman’s Little White House was one of those things that we were both interested in.

Well, we were very interested until we got there and asked to purchase a ticket…wow quite expensive! In the end, we decided to take the tour, even after being told that we could not take photos inside the home…and everyone who knows me, knows that drives me crazy!

As we sat on the back veranda, our tour guide gave us a quick overview of the history of the property and of how it came to be the Key West home of President Truman.

Built in 1890, as the first officer’s quarters of the submarine base naval station, it was later converted into a single-family dwelling to house the base commandant. Originally a waterfront dwelling, the property’s ocean views were eventually blocked by a new building at the naval station.

Before President Truman’s acquisition, the home had its share of famous visitors. In 1912, President William Howard Taft traveled to Key West for a stay before traveling to Panama for an inspection of the canal which was under construction. While staying in the home during World War I, Thomas Edison perfected underwater weapons and the home acted as a command center for the remainder of the war.

Requiring some relaxation, President Harry S. Truman was ordered to take a warm-weathered vacation by his physician. His first trip, in 1946, was the first of eleven visits over the course of his time in office and it was on those visits that he and Bess put their decorative touches on it and made it their “home away from home”.

As we walked through the house with our guide, we were regaled with tales of the many important events that took place within its walls…and not necessarily the nightly poker games.

United States Cabinet members and foreign officials were regular visitors to the Truman home and it was where the the Joint Chiefs of Staff laid out the creation of the Department of Defense.

Later still, other presidential visitors included General Dwight D. Eisenhower, who later became president and President John F. Kennedy. In more recent years, President Jimmy Carter held a family reunion on the premises and a week of peace talks was initiated here by Secretary of State Colin Powell with President Robert Kocharyan of Armenia and Heydar Aliyev of Azerbaijan. Former President Bill Clinton and his wife, Hilary, have also spent a weekend relaxing in the Little White House.

After the President Truman left office, the house reverted to the role as home to the Naval Station commandant until 1974, when the submarine base was closed and later, that year, it was added to the U.S. National Register of Historic Places.

The home was deeded to the State of Florida on January 1, 1987. Almost a million dollars was spent restoring the house to its 1949 appearance and it was opened as a state historic site and museum.

As we were led through each of the home’s rooms, we garnered a better understanding of how the president spent his days and nights on vacation, as we examined items such as the President’s briefcase, books, telephone. Noting these last objects, obviously, at times, he found it necessary to mix business with pleasure.

My favorite items, however, were his poker table (which could tell a tale or two, I am sure), his “vacation” shirt, which still hangs in the closet and his famous “The Buck Stops Here” sign which still sits on his desk.

The home is in impeccable condition and looks much like one would expect a home to look like during the late 40’s and early 50’s.

Now back to the no photographs rule…

Of course, I wanted to capture what I was seeing as it appeared to be so original and Tru (pun intended!), however, as we were accompanied the entire time by our guide, it was by the hardest that I was able to snap a few photos when he was not looking.

With that being said, was the visit to the Little White House worth the $22.52?

We learned a lot about the United States’ 33rd president, were able to enjoy authentic 1950’s decor and walk through a piece of architecture that played an important part of our great country.

The most important thing, however, was that my husband and I were able to enjoy something together!

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Harry S. Truman Little White House

Buoy Oh Buoy!

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I’ve been to Cuba…

And I’ve been close to Cuba.

Approximately ninety miles from Cuba to be exact.

One of the most popular landmarks on Key West is the Southernmost Point. A giant red, white and black buoy marks the spot (24 degrees, 33 minutes north latitude and 81 degrees, 45 minutes) which is the southernmost point of the continental United States, only ninety miles from Cuba. Erected in 1983 by the City of Key West, the landmark attracts travelers by the thousands with a line, for those seeking a photograph, sometimes snaking down the block.

Luckily for us, it was a slow day and we didn’t have to wait long, but, buoy or buoy, it is one of those things that you just have to see!

And can you see Cuba?

Only if you have better than 20/20 eyesight (more like telescopic vision) even on a clear day!

Don’t forget to check out the amazing statue of the Conch Blower, which honors Albert Kee, Key West’s unofficial goodwill ambassador, who welcomed visitors to the Southernmost Point, blowing on a conch shell, waving, and yelling “Welcome to the island!” and on the opposite side, The Cable Hut. Built on the mainland and transported by Flagler’s railroad, the Cable Hut protected the connection between the telephone lines and the telegraph lines which linked Key West and Havana, Cuba.

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Southernmost Point

Mile Marker Must Do

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

While there are many photographic opportunities on Key West, from architecture to jewel hued waters, there was one that I had missed on my previous trips.

I have driven on this highway, of which parts are quite spectacular and picturesque, and stretches from upper Maine to Florida. The highway spans 2,369 miles and connects most major cities in the eastern United States, culminating on the corner of Fleming and Whitehead streets in Key West.

The sign, one of the most popular places to have your picture taken, is in front of the US1 mile marker zero sign. Selfies rule here and then you can pop in to one of the souvenir shops and buy something to commemorate the occasion!

My husband and I, enroute to the Hemingway House, took a few moments here on our first day on the island and again on our last as we turned onto the highway in our rental car to head back to the mainland.

While there are many other things to see in Key West, you’ll probably pass near the sign while heading to other points of interest. It is a must-do, so you can say you did!

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Mile Marker Zero

First Flight

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

For the past thirty years, I have worked for an airline. Anything flight-related captures my interest, but I do love reading or learning about travel in the past. Seeing photographs of how passengers treated traveling by plane with great reverence, it of utmost interest. Many years ago, my airline merged with the now defunct Pan American World Airways. Tragically, with the fall of this great company, was also the fall of the way people traveled in style. Instead of suits, dresses and Louis Vuitton luggage, you see travelers in hair rollers, pajamas and trash bags.

When I see anything that refers to Pan Am, I am instantly intrigued. My desire to revisit the golden age of flying transcends above all, so when my husband and I were in Key West and enroute to the Hemingway House and I spotted First Flight, I had to stop and check it out.

Located on Whitehead Street, First Flight, claims to be the birthplace of Pan American World Airways. In this building, the first airline tickets were sold in 1927 for what was to become the principal and largest international airline in the United States.

With its inception as an air mail and passenger service which operated between Key West and Havana, Cuba, it became known as the airline that shaped the international airline industry.

Now a restaurant and brewery which features a beautiful garden dining area under a tree-top canopy and an interior filled with Pan Am memorabilia and an indoor-outdoor bar made from an airplane wing. You can also visit the Mercantile for airline themed gifts and souvenirs.

Sound amazing?

I think so and I wish that I would have been able to see and experience it. But…after reading the placard outside the bar and photographing the building, it was time to move on as it was the middle of the day and much too early to drink or eat!

Hoping to come back later in our trip, we never did but it is on my list for my next visit to Key West.

First class caviar and service? You bet!

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First Flight

  • http://firstflightkw.com/
  • Address: 301 Whitehead Street, Key West, Florida 33040
  • Hours: 1200 to 2200, daily. Happy hour, 1600-1800, daily.
  • Admission: free. Menu items vary.

Never To Be, Napoleon

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Recently, while in Barcelona, I visited the Arc de Triomf. Only one of many triumphal arches I have visited over the years, I decided that I would make a point of visiting any and all that were present in the cities that I would currently be in.

Having seen the Arco della Pace in Milan a few years ago for a few brief moments as I was making my way to the Castle Sforza, I recently decided to make an official visit.

Arco della Pace or “Arch of Peace” is located in the Parco Sempione, directly opposite the famous Castello Sforzesco. Built under Napoleon’s rule, it is one of Milan’s many city gates and was built in the style of Paris’ Arc du Triomphe. Napoleon’s intention was that he could pass through the arch on his way into Milan as he traveled from Paris.

Built between the years of 1807 and 1838, it was constructed from many materials, including marble, bronze and stucco. Architect, Luigi Cagnola was commissioned to construct the neoclassical structure and added bas-reliefs, Corinthian columns, and statues including a bronze effigy of a Goddess led by four horses. Under the statue, which tops the arch, there is an inscription that reads Sestina della Pace (poem by peace). The names of the fallen of World War II are inscribed above the arch and at the side of the Arch, above the columns, there are two plates with the names of the fallen of the Great War and at the center there is a large slab dedicated to Victor Emanuel II. This slab is bordered by two bas-reliefs depicting two soldiers.

While the decoration of the arch initially intended to document Napoleon’s victories and originally named the Victory Arch, the conquering of the Napoleonic Kingdom of Italy by the Austrian Empire put an end to the idea. Eventually, under the rule of Emperor Francis II, the monument was decorated with scenes from the Battle of Leipzig, which ironically, led to Napoleon’s defeat.

The historical arch, one of the most familiar landmarks in the city is a common meeting point and area where locals gather to relax and enjoy the spaciousness of the Piazza Sempione and Milan’s largest park. Children can be spotted running and playing and adults exercising or enjoying an aperitif or a snack.

The arch’s base is enclosed by a metal chain, hindering visitors from walking through and lingering under the arch. There is no security presence, however, so I believe, the barrier is more of a deterrence to keep the homeless from using the space as a shelter. There are some beautiful motifs and carvings inside of the three arches that are worth taking a better look, so if you feel comfortable stepping over the chain, go for it!

There are many nightclubs and restaurants in the area as well as Milan’s own Chinatown, so grab a seat and admire the beauty of this historical triumphal arch and then take a short walk to enjoy the offerings of the area.

In my quest to see all of the world’s triumphal arches, today I achieved part of my goal.

Quite the triumph!

Now…how many more are there? Stay tuned!

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Arco della Pace

  • Address: Piazza Sempione, 20154 Milano MI, Italy
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Metro, Line 2, Moscova or Line 1, Cairoli and walk through Castle straight through park to Arch.

All Roads Lead to Sol

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Walking through one of the busiest and well known places in Madrid, the Puerta del Sol, I noticed a crowd of people across the street.

They were all looking down.

Being of a curious mind, I needed to see why.

In front of the old Post Office building, under the clock tower, a slab is embedded in the concrete sidewalk.

Kilometer Zero.

This stone slab marks the point from which the distances of Spain’s national roads are measured and specifically the starting point for measuring the distances of the country’s six national roads. It is also the starting point for Madrid’s numbered streets. The closer to the kilometer mark 0, the lower the street number.

If you’ve ever heard the saying, “all roads lead to Rome”, this type of marker explains why as many countries used these type of traditional markers, most commonly in their capital cities, with the most famous marker being the “Golden Milestone” in Ancient Rome.

The Madrid marker was originally placed in this location in 1950 and replaced with newer stones in 2002 and 2009, however with the replacement in 2002, it was turned the wrong direction, but corrected in 2009.

Today, it attracts thousands of tourists and tour groups who come to see where travel begins.

If you are in the historic Puerta del Sol, challenge yourself to find Kilometer Zero.

It won’t be that hard…just look for a group of people looking down!

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Kilometer Zero

  • http://www.comunidad.madrid/
  • Address: Puerta del Sol, 7, 28013 Madrid, Spain
  • Hours: daily, 24 hours
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Metro, stop Sol, lines 1, 2 and 3