Fort Myers – Snapping The Globe

The Koreshans

Driving down Estero Parkway toward Naples, I came across a sign directing visitors to the Koreshan Historic Site. With no idea about what this place was, on a whim, I turned my car and decided to check it out.

What I found, blew my mind!

Anticipating a monument of some sorts, I instead found something within Koreshan State Park, very unexpected, very historical and just downright interesting.

In 1894, Dr. Cyrus R. Teed, founded the Koreshan Unity Settlement in Estero, a utopian community comprised of approximately two-hundred followers. Taking the name “Koresh”, Hebrew for Cyrus, meaning shepherd, he led his people to the area hoping to find a location which was accepting of their religious, scientific and cultural beliefs, the main one being that the entire universe existed within a giant, hollow sphere…the Earth.

At this location, the followers built a community consisting of a farm, nursery, botanical gardens, a printing facility, boat works, cement works, sawmill, bakery, store and a hostelry. Living a life based on communal living, they also lived celibate lives.

Only fourteen years after the establishment of the commune, Dr. Teed passed away at the age of 69, leaving some of the members to give up on the movement. After years of decline, there were only four remaining members in 1961, who then decided to deed the 305 acres of their land to the State of Florida as a park and memorial.

Something seemed familiar to me. The name Koresh. In 1993, a man by the name of David Koresh was the leader of a cult, the Branch Davidians, in Waco, Texas, which met a devastating ending when their compound was stormed by the FBI. As I made my way through the site, I wondered if this former settlement was related. While visiting one of the buildings, I discovered that others were wondering the same thing as the question was posed to a park ranger. What we learned was that although both were communes with unique beliefs, the only similarity was the name Koresh, one that was adopted by its leader for its meaning…shepherd.

The grounds of the Koreshan Historic Site were quite large and as I made my way along its pathways, I encountered eleven buildings, each depicting the life of the community members and other points of interest.

The Art Hall served as the cultural, religious and educational center of the community. The members produced plays and musicals and founded the Pioneer University here, which instructed students on construction, baking, beekeeping and music.

The Planetary Court was built in 1904 and served as the residence of the governing body of the Koreshan Unity, the Planetary Council. The group, composed of seven women, each handling different aspects of day-to-day living in the settlement, lived in their own room and in relative luxury.

The Founders House, built in 1896, is the oldest structure on the site and was the home of Dr. Cyrus Teed. It was restored in 1992.

The New Store was built in 1920 to replace the Old Store located nearby. This store not only served the Koreshan community but other residents in the area and served as a general store, restaurant, post office and dormitory.

The Old Store was located on the banks of the Estero River and was in use until construction of the New Store and burned down in 1938.

Damkohler Cottage was built by Gustave Damkohler in 1882 with one room and was the first building to be constructed. This was the location where Dr. Teed stayed during his first visit to the site.

Bamboo Landing was constructed to receive visitors and freight that arrived from the river. The pier was also used as a stage for theatrical and orchestral performances.

The Victorian and Sunken Gardens were installed to showcase native and exotic plants that were imported by the Koreshans.

Hedwig Michel Gravesite is the final resting place of the last Koreshan to live at the settlement. Mrs. Michel arrived shortly after the death of Cyrus Teed and was responsible for a brief revival of the commune in the 1940s.

The Dining Hall. Although all that is left of the three-story building that served as a dining hall and girls’ dormitory, is the dining bell and three of the four foundation corner stones.

The Koreshan Bakery was built in 1903 and produced 500-600 loaves of bread per day. The bread was used by the commune and sold to the public in the general store.

Lillian “Vesta” Newcomb Cottage was the residence of long-time member, Lillian Newcomb and built in 1920. Originally serving as home and office of Koreshan barber, Lou Stratton, the building was moved to its current location in the1930s.

Conrad Schlender Cottage was built in 1903 and moved to the settlement in the 1930s serving as a dormitory for the male members. It eventually became the home of Conrad Schlender one of the last remaining members of the settlement.

The Small Machine Shop was built in 1905 and used to produce small detailed products.

The Koreshan Laundry handled the washing, drying and ironing of all laundry for the settlement. Built in 1903, the laundry was eventually demolished.

The Large Machine Shop was a production shop for a variety of products and materials needed by the settlement. Built in 1904, it was powered by a steam engine which also powered the adjacent laundry.

The Generator Building housed the electrical alternator, generator and power source for the community. It also provided power for the nearby communities until 1916 when Florida Power and Light assumed the task.

Of course, because of Covid restrictions, the buildings were not open, and tours were temporarily suspended. We were, however, able to peer into the windows of each and get a glimpse of what life was like for the commune members.

While most visitors to Fort Myers lean toward more popular attractions such as the Edison Ford Winter Estates and the miles of white sand beaches, this is one that shouldn’t be missed. An important part of southwest Florida’s history, it is an attraction that was truly enlightening and worth the spontaneous side trip!

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Koreshan Historic Site

https://www.floridastateparks.org/sites/default/files/media/file/kor-brochure%20%28002%29_0.pdf
Address: 3800 Corkscrew Road, Estero Florida 33928
Hours: 0800-1700, daily
Admission: $5.00 per vehicle (two to eight people), $4.00, single-occupant vehicle, $2.00 pedestrians, bicyclists, extra passengers, passengers in vehicle with holder of Annual Individual Entrance Pass.

Do The Sloo

While visiting a friend who had recently relocated to Southwest Florida, she mentioned that she had not seen one alligator since she had been there.

Now, to some people, that might not be such a bad thing, but everyone knows that alligators outnumber people in many parts of the state, so it was quite surprising that she had not seen even one.

Maybe she wasn’t looking in the right places?

During a spring trip to Fort Myers, I was looking for something to occupy my morning. Something that would give me a bit of exercise and yet, give me something to write about. After a few internet searches and scouring my trusty Google Maps, I found that “something” just off of Six Mile Cypress Parkway.

The Six Mile Cypress Slough Preserve (pronounced sloo) is a wetland ecosystem comprised of over 3,500 acres with a boardwalk trail, Interpretive Center and amphitheater. This slough catches and slowly filters rainwater which then makes its way to Estero Bay and provides a habitat for fish, alligators and birds. This slice of nature, conveniently located only `15 minutes from downtown Fort Myers, offers visitors the opportunity to view wildlife from an elevated boardwalk snaking through the preserve.

Heading out early that morning, I secured a place to park in the already crowded lot, tightened the laces on my walking shoes and prepared for a long walk…

What I soon discovered was that the name is a little misleading. Named for the highway that it is located off of, Six Mile Cypress Parkway, I thought that it meant that I was going to find six miles of boardwalk. Silly me. After studying the map at the entrance, I learned that the boardwalk was only 1.2 miles long. Nevertheless, I was interested in what I might find, and the regulations sign informed me (see number 4) that jogging, and power walking are not permitted on the boardwalk. So much for my exercise regimen that day…

Since I am originally from the great state of Louisiana, I am accustomed to seeing moss-covered cypress trees, muddy water, wading birds and even the occasional alligator, so this was nothing new for me. However, one never knows what Mother Nature might throw out at them and there is something unique in every swamp setting. Definitely a lot of beauty would be here in the preserve, you just need to know where to look and what to look for.

The boardwalk was well maintained and actually quite busy for a weekday morning. As I made my way around, I discovered shelters offering information on the slough and its residents, photo blinds and seating areas throughout, making it easy to relax and enjoy (and capture) the scenery. Immediately, I noticed a group of white birds wading in the murky waters, hunting for their breakfast among the hundreds of cypress knees. Admiring the flora and fauna, I slowly made my way from pond to pond…Pop Ash, Otter, Wood Duck…hoping to catch a glimpse of some of their inhabitants, but it wasn’t until I reach the Gator Lakes that I actually saw some movement.

Eyes and ridged back barely visible amongst the lily pads, a small gator slowly made his way around the lake, possibly hoping for his own meal. A little further away, I noticed another as well as a few turtles sunning themselves on a log. Amusing as it was for me to listen to some of the other visitors gasping at this tiny four-foot gator, I had to remind myself that while I had grown up seeing monster-sized alligators while we fished in the backwaters of Louisiana, this may have been some visitor’s first time seeing one in the wild.

My time in the preserve was rather short, as 1.2 miles doesn’t require a lot of time to cover, even with photo stops and time for nature spotting, but it provided a nice and inexpensive outing. Lee County residents should be commended for petitioning to raise their own taxes back in 1976 to raise the funds to protect the slough as a preserve and provide it free of charge for visitors. Another similar sanctuary in nearby Naples, a little larger in size, is owned by the Audubon Society, but charges a heft entry fee.

Take my advice, enjoy what the residents worked hard to preserve and spend some time in Lee County. As I told my friend, “Go to the Slough Preserve and find your gator! Do the Slough (Sloo)!”

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Six Mile Cypress Slough Preserve

https://www.sloughpreserve.org
Address: 7751 Penzance Blvd, Fort Myers, Florida 33966-0600
Hours: Dawn to Dusk, daily. Interpretive Center: Open from 1000-1600, Tuesday through Sunday.
Admission: free
Parking: $1.00 per hour, maximum $5.00 per day, payable at pay stations in the lot. Lee Country Annual Parking Stickers are accepted at this location.

The Winter Escape

In 1885, Thomas Edison headed to south Florida, seeking a respite from the harsh winters. His friend, Henry Ford followed 31 years later and moved in next door!

This past spring, I found myself in Fort Myers, doing the exact same thing…seeking a respite from the remnants of winter’s wrath. Between trips to the beach and time lounging in the warm sunshine, I found myself wanting to see what it was that lured Edison and his family, and later, Henry Ford, to the area. I headed downtown to the National Register Historic Site, Edison and Ford Winter Estates.

What I found at the most visited historic home site in America (besides long lines and a hefty admission fee) was twenty acres of historical buildings and gardens including the 1928 Edison Botanical Research Laboratory.

After purchasing my admission, I followed the masses across McGregor Boulevard and began my explorations.

Starting my self-guided tour on the northeast side of the property, I visited the Caretakers’ Cottage. The cottage, which now offers various exhibits throughout the year, was one of the oldest buildings in Fort Myers when Thomas Edison arrived. Designed in the “cracker” style, it was originally used by cattlemen as they drove their herds south. The house was renovated and expanded to include a kitchen, garage and chauffeur’s quarters, making it comfortable for the caretakers who lived on-site year-round. On this day, I found the structure to be devoid of its original furnishings, but filled with an interesting display of furniture and artwork created from the wood of trees destroyed by Hurricane Irma in 2017.

Continuing my walk through the beautifully landscaped property and the Moonlight Garden, I found Edison’s study which was built in 1928 and was the site of many experiments, including underwater telegraphy. The laboratory originally contained equipment for mechanical and chemical experiments and many elements from his various companies. Eventually, his laboratory was sold to Henry Ford and moved to his collection of historic buildings at Greenfield Village in Dearborn, Michigan.

*Thomas Edison’s Study and the Moonlight Garden*

Just across the pathway from Edison’s study, I discovered the place where the family, no doubt, spent much of their time…the swimming pool. One of the first residential pools constructed in the area, the 50’ x 20’ pool was built in 1910. A few years later, a changing room, shower and Tea House were added. As I stood in the heat of the day, I must admit, it still looked pretty inviting!

Following the path along the Caloosahatchee River, I reveled in the cool breeze and stopped to inspect the remnants of the pier which had been constructed to bring in building materials needed for the estate’s creation. The river walk path, lined with tall, regal palms and lush greenery led to the property belonging to Henry Ford. In 1914, the Ford family (Henry, Clara and their son Edsel) was invited by the Edison’s for a visit. Finding the climate and area (as well as the company) to be enjoyable, they purchased the home adjacent to the Edison estate. The Mangoes, as it was named by the Fords, was built in the Craftsman architectural style and featured two stories.

On the southwestern side of the property, I first investigated the Ford Caretaker’s Cottage, originally a garage and residence. Today, it caters to visitors of the estate and offers locally made ice cream, books and gifts as well as a place to sit and cool off. Another garage, to the rear of the main house, provided a look at five of Ford’s beautifully crafted automobiles.

Finally, with a quick peek at Ford’s citrus grove, I made my way to Henry Ford’s main house. Built in 1911, the American bungalow was constructed with a wide covered porch from which I and other visitors could peer into the opened, plexi-glass covered doorways of the home. The cypress ceiling with decorative beams held court over the interior accoutrements, although I was to understand that most of the furnishings on display were not original, except for the grandmother clock in the living room.

Strolling by Clara Ford’s Michigan Rose Garden, I then had an outstanding view of the front of the Edison home, fronted by a row of majestic palms. Before heading to the porch, however, I strolled down Orchid Lane and the Friendship Walk. The lane was developed as a natural path from the mango trees that formed a line down both properties. Many orchid plants were grown here and the stones that gave sustenance to the path were quite interesting with each being a gift to the Edisons from friends, family and local community members and leaders. Started in 1928, with a stone from Hamilton Holt, the president of Rollins College in Winter Park, Florida, the pathway continued to evolve with stones, fifty in all, in memory of family members, ideologies and causes.

Making my way back to the Edison main house, I was able to examine the family’s pride and joy…the Seminole Lodge.

*Edison’s Guest House and Main House, Seminole Lodge*

Divided into two sections, it was interesting to contemplate the thought process involved in its design. Originally, the main house included a kitchen and dining room, however in 1906, the Edison family purchased the guesthouse, originally owned by a business associate, to house their frequent guests, including Henry Ford, Harvey Firestone, President-elect Herbert Hoover, and many others. The guest house offered a sitting room, dining room, kitchen, guest bedrooms and quarters for serving staff. The original design of the main house included a kitchen and dining room, however, with the addition of the guest cottage to the main structure, the family remodeled the main house to offer a library, a study, Edison’s den and serve as family bedroom suites, using the kitchen and dining in the guest house.

*Walkway between Edison Guest House and Main House*

Again, we were allowed to walk on the ample covered porches and peer through the plexi-glass blocked doorways, but it was wonderful to learn that nearly all of the furnishings in the Edison main house and guest house are original to the Edison family. There were many cozy seating areas on the porch and it was assured that many a fishing tale was told here when the men returned from their days at sea. On the wall above one of the seating areas, I spied a mounted tarpon. It was amusing to read about Charles Edison’s story as to how he gaffed a 110-pound tarpon (his first), while his dad, out in a larger boat upriver, excitedly brought back his first tarpon, only to discover he had been out-fished by his son!

*Edison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and Gardens*

I continued to enjoy the estate grounds until I decided to make my way back to the visitor center. Although I had assumed that my tour was over, in the attached building, I discovered the museum displaying a wide assortment of machinery, Edison inventions, fishing gear along with a depiction of the pier that originally stood behind the houses, statues of both Thomas Edison and his wife, Mary, furniture and many of Henry Ford’s automobiles. I studied as many as I could of the exhibits and artifacts before making my way through Thomas Edison’s Machine Shop.

I stood looking at the tables filled with beakers and lab equipment and it was truly awe-inspiring to think of the ideas conceived and executed here. If it not for Thomas Edison, we might possibly be using candles during the nighttime hours and if it were not for Henry Ford, everyday travel as we know it, would not exist.

As I got back into my car to head back to my hotel room, where I turned on my lights, I realized that today, I had stood where these great men stood, saw where they worked and enjoyed what they got to enjoy, even if just during the winter.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Edison and Ford Winter Estates

https://www.edisonfordwinterestates.org/
Address: 2350 McGregor Boulevard, Fort Myers, FL 33901
Hours: Daily, 0900-1730
Admission: Adults, $15.00 USD, Teens (13-19 years), $10.00 USD, Children (6-12 years), $5, Children (0-5 years), free.