Its a time for warm weather to replace the cold, flowers to replace dead grass, animals to emerge from hibernation, players to fill baseball diamonds…
Spring brings hope…and SPRING BREAK!
Yes, every year, thousands of families and students descend upon beaches everywhere hoping to escape winter’s icy fingers and return home, to the envy of friends and those not so fortunate, to show off their tan lines!
Over the years, I have been blessed to have had the opportunity to take my children on some pretty awesome vacations, some, during their Spring Breaks. Last year was no exception. This time, my youngest son and I decided to head to the far southern reaches of the Caribbean…
Aruba.
While we didn’t take advantage of staying on popular Palm or Eagle Beaches, we had rented a car, which in turn, offered us the opportunity to make our way all over the island. After a long day of travel, we were excited to have arrived, excited to make our way to hotel and excited to get our vacation started.
Our hotel, situated across from the Hadicurari Beach, where sailboarders glide across the shallow Caribbean waters, was clean and offered us what a traditional hotel room couldn’t…a kitchen. We were excited to stock our fridge with some snacks, ice down our beer, get settled in our hotel room and cross the road to put our feet in the sand. But…finding more rocks than sand, we attempted to manipulate a path to deeper waters. One step in…
Ouch!
A crab got me.
Okay…maybe this wasn’t the hotel for us.
Yet…that evening, as we sat on our patio and opened up a couple of Balashi Beers, we realized that despite the less than optimum beachfront real estate, the sunsets here were spectacular. This is what the hotels and homes in this area are known for!
With a car at our disposal, we could enjoy different beachfront properties each day and then retire to this little slice of paradise to enjoy our own personal happy hour!
On our first day, that first sip of Balashi, along with the spectacular views, gave us hope for the days to come.
After the constant travel we had experienced on our vacation so far, we decided that we needed a relaxing beach day!
Wanting to explore the nearby Pakleni islands, we decided that renting a boat for the day would be the best option since we own a boat at home and have experience on the water. We awakened early, headed to the small harbor and sought out a vendor. After a lot of questions with a lot of people, we were informed that since the onset of Covid we would not be able to rent the boat ourselves but rather with the assistance of a captain. I don’t know what Covid had to do with any of this, however, the addition of a captain made it quite expensive and much less private than we desired.
Instead, we analyzed the signs along the Riva advertising the water taxis and their destinations.
Palmizana Beach on Sveti Klement Island.
Mlini and Zdrilica beaches on Marinkovac Island.
Kordovon beach on Jerolim Island.
Right away, we knew that Jerolim was out of contention as it’s home to a nudist beach…not that we have a problem with that…it’s just that my body isn’t in as great a shape as it once was! Kordovon beach is one of the oldest Adriatic nudist beaches (established in the 1950s) and has been voted by CNN as the most beautiful naturist beach in Europe…sorry we had to miss it!
When we had solicited the opinions the day before at the Visitor’s bureau, from our waiters and our host, some had suggested Milini for its beauty, others had suggested Palmizana for its sheer size and facilities.
Finally, we decided to just throw caution to the wind and flipped a coin…Palmizana won! We hopped on board the next water taxi, with a handful of other travelers, and held on as our boat made its way across open water towards the islands.
Water taxi ride to Palmizana.
View of Hvar Town and its mighty fortress.
Boats along the way.
A short time later, we approached a dock and were allowed to disembark. Following a path and the other passengers, we made our way to the other side of the island where Palmizana beach spread out before us, sparkling and pristine.
Building on Palmizana island.
Sites on Palmizana island.
Renting an umbrella and two chairs, we proceeded to relax and enjoy the sun for the majority of the day with a break to enjoy a couple of beers from one of the restaurants that remained open, since it was the last day of the tourist season.
Palmizana Beach
The beach was a bit pebbly and waters crystal clear, albeit a bit cold for our liking, but all in all the adventure was worth it! It was nice to relax after all of our adventures.
Water taxi back to Hvar Town.
During the late afternoon, we headed back to the dock to make the boat crossing back to Hvar Town. My husband was a bit sunburned and anxious to take a break in the apartment, but I spotted the Cathedral of St. Stephen’s doors open, so I opted to take a quick peek!
Cathedral of St. Stephen’s
The cathedral, located on the eastern side of the city square (Pjaca) was built on the site of an early 6th century Christian church and later the Benedictine convent of St. Mary. While the church was decorated much less lavishly than I had expected, since it was decorated by Venetian artists, it did have some redeeming qualities. The side chapels were similar in style and much more ornate than the rest of the décor with heavy marble columns. The stone pulpit dates back to the 15th century and the crucifix, over the altar, is in the Gothic style, while the rest of the church is a blend of Renaissance, Manneristic and Baroque styles.
Cathedral of St. Stephen’s
Cathedral of St. Stephen’s
Cathedral of St. Stephen’s
As I stepped outside to photograph the exterior of one of the most important historical buildings in Hvar and inspect its 17th century bell tower, the priest and another gentleman were hard at work raising a very large canvas portrait of what I assumed was St. Stephen above doorway. Stepping away into the Pjaca, I admired the uniquely styled cathedral in the dwindling afternoon light.
Cathedral of St. Stephen’s
Meeting up with my husband, we proceeded to continue our afternoon sunset observations from the Riva before the dinner hour. The golden light was stunning as it set beyond the islands that we had visited on this day and once again, the yachts began to sail into the harbor, taking their places, sometimes five deep along the dock. With as many boats on this night, surely dinner was going to be a lively affair!
Watching the sunset.
Yachts “stacked” along the dock.
Dinnertime in Hvar.
Hvar, while the smaller of the three cities that we visited, was filled with charm and natural beauty. We were only there for two nights, however, it definitely left a mark on us, making me wonder how many other secret spots Croatia had up it sleeve! Tomorrow, however, we were heading back, the final leg of our journey to Dubrovnik, and we were looking forward to see all of the sites we had not had time for during our first few days!
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In 1885, Thomas Edison headed to south Florida, seeking a respite from the harsh winters. His friend, Henry Ford followed 31 years later and moved in next door!
This past spring, I found myself in Fort Myers, doing the exact same thing…seeking a respite from the remnants of winter’s wrath. Between trips to the beach and time lounging in the warm sunshine, I found myself wanting to see what it was that lured Edison and his family, and later, Henry Ford, to the area. I headed downtown to the National Register Historic Site, Edison and Ford Winter Estates.
What I found at the most visited historic home site in America (besides long lines and a hefty admission fee) was twenty acres of historical buildings and gardens including the 1928 Edison Botanical Research Laboratory.
After purchasing my admission, I followed the masses across McGregor Boulevard and began my explorations.
Starting my self-guided tour on the northeast side of the property, I visited the Caretakers’ Cottage. The cottage, which now offers various exhibits throughout the year, was one of the oldest buildings in Fort Myers when Thomas Edison arrived. Designed in the “cracker” style, it was originally used by cattlemen as they drove their herds south. The house was renovated and expanded to include a kitchen, garage and chauffeur’s quarters, making it comfortable for the caretakers who lived on-site year-round. On this day, I found the structure to be devoid of its original furnishings, but filled with an interesting display of furniture and artwork created from the wood of trees destroyed by Hurricane Irma in 2017.
Thomas Edison’s Caretakers’ Cottage
Exhibit in the Caretakers’ Cottage
Continuing my walk through the beautifully landscaped property and the Moonlight Garden, I found Edison’s study which was built in 1928 and was the site of many experiments, including underwater telegraphy. The laboratory originally contained equipment for mechanical and chemical experiments and many elements from his various companies. Eventually, his laboratory was sold to Henry Ford and moved to his collection of historic buildings at Greenfield Village in Dearborn, Michigan.
Thomas Edison’s StudyThomas Edison’s Study and the Moonlight GardenMoonlight Garden
Just across the pathway from Edison’s study, I discovered the place where the family, no doubt, spent much of their time…the swimming pool. One of the first residential pools constructed in the area, the 50’ x 20’ pool was built in 1910. A few years later, a changing room, shower and Tea House were added. As I stood in the heat of the day, I must admit, it still looked pretty inviting!
Swimming Pool Complex
Following the path along the Caloosahatchee River, I reveled in the cool breeze and stopped to inspect the remnants of the pier which had been constructed to bring in building materials needed for the estate’s creation. The river walk path, lined with tall, regal palms and lush greenery led to the property belonging to Henry Ford. In 1914, the Ford family (Henry, Clara and their son Edsel) was invited by the Edison’s for a visit. Finding the climate and area (as well as the company) to be enjoyable, they purchased the home adjacent to the Edison estate. The Mangoes, as it was named by the Fords, was built in the Craftsman architectural style and featured two stories.
PierRiverwalk
On the southwestern side of the property, I first investigated the Ford Caretaker’s Cottage, originally a garage and residence. Today, it caters to visitors of the estate and offers locally made ice cream, books and gifts as well as a place to sit and cool off. Another garage, to the rear of the main house, provided a look at five of Ford’s beautifully crafted automobiles.
Henry Ford’s Caretakers’ Cottage
Ford’s Automobile Garage
Ford’s Citrus Grove
Finally, with a quick peek at Ford’s citrus grove, I made my way to Henry Ford’s main house. Built in 1911, the American bungalow was constructed with a wide covered porch from which I and other visitors could peer into the opened, plexi-glass covered doorways of the home. The cypress ceiling with decorative beams held court over the interior accoutrements, although I was to understand that most of the furnishings on display were not original, except for the grandmother clock in the living room.
Henry Ford’s Winter Estate Main House
Henry Ford’s Winter Estate Main House
Henry Ford’s Winter Estate Main HouseHenry Ford’s Winter Estate Main House
Strolling by Clara Ford’s Michigan Rose Garden, I then had an outstanding view of the front of the Edison home, fronted by a row of majestic palms. Before heading to the porch, however, I strolled down Orchid Lane and the Friendship Walk. The lane was developed as a natural path from the mango trees that formed a line down both properties. Many orchid plants were grown here and the stones that gave sustenance to the path were quite interesting with each being a gift to the Edisons from friends, family and local community members and leaders. Started in 1928, with a stone from Hamilton Holt, the president of Rollins College in Winter Park, Florida, the pathway continued to evolve with stones, fifty in all, in memory of family members, ideologies and causes.
Clara Ford’s Michigan Rose Garden
Friendship WalkClara Ford’s Michigan Rose Garden
Making my way back to the Edison main house, I was able to examine the family’s pride and joy…the Seminole Lodge.
Edison’s Guest House and Main House, Seminole Lodge
Divided into two sections, it was interesting to contemplate the thought process involved in its design. Originally, the main house included a kitchen and dining room, however in 1906, the Edison family purchased the guesthouse, originally owned by a business associate, to house their frequent guests, including Henry Ford, Harvey Firestone, President-elect Herbert Hoover, and many others. The guest house offered a sitting room, dining room, kitchen, guest bedrooms and quarters for serving staff. The original design of the main house included a kitchen and dining room, however, with the addition of the guest cottage to the main structure, the family remodeled the main house to offer a library, a study, Edison’s den and serve as family bedroom suites, using the kitchen and dining in the guest house.
Edison’s Guest House and Main House, Seminole LodgeEdison Guest HouseWalkway between Edison Guest House and Main House
Again, we were allowed to walk on the ample covered porches and peer through the plexi-glass blocked doorways, but it was wonderful to learn that nearly all of the furnishings in the Edison main house and guest house are original to the Edison family. There were many cozy seating areas on the porch and it was assured that many a fishing tale was told here when the men returned from their days at sea. On the wall above one of the seating areas, I spied a mounted tarpon. It was amusing to read about Charles Edison’s story as to how he gaffed a 110-pound tarpon (his first), while his dad, out in a larger boat upriver, excitedly brought back his first tarpon, only to discover he had been out-fished by his son!
Edison Main HouseEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and GardensEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and GardensEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and GardensEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and GardensEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and Gardens
I continued to enjoy the estate grounds until I decided to make my way back to the visitor center. Although I had assumed that my tour was over, in the attached building, I discovered the museum displaying a wide assortment of machinery, Edison inventions, fishing gear along with a depiction of the pier that originally stood behind the houses, statues of both Thomas Edison and his wife, Mary, furniture and many of Henry Ford’s automobiles. I studied as many as I could of the exhibits and artifacts before making my way through Thomas Edison’s Machine Shop.
Edison Ford Winter Estate MuseumEdison Ford Winter Estate MuseumEdison Ford Winter Estate MuseumEdison Ford Winter Estate Museum
I stood looking at the tables filled with beakers and lab equipment and it was truly awe-inspiring to think of the ideas conceived and executed here. If it not for Thomas Edison, we might possibly be using candles during the nighttime hours and if it were not for Henry Ford, everyday travel as we know it, would not exist.
Edison’s Machine Shop and Laboratory
As I got back into my car to head back to my hotel room, where I turned on my lights, I realized that today, I had stood where these great men stood, saw where they worked and enjoyed what they got to enjoy, even if just during the winter.
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There was a time when I used to spend multiple days in Senegal.
Having so much time to explore, we saw a great deal of not only the city of Dakar but of the neighboring areas.
One morning, after having been up for most of the night, enjoying a few (or maybe more) cocktails, we convened in the lobby of our hotel for a day’s adventure. Though my eyes may have been a little red and my head throbbing somewhat, I made it downstairs in time to greet our tour guide for the day.
It had always been my desire to go on an African safari. I longed to roam an African nation in an open top vehicle on the search for the Big Five while shooting frame after frame with my telephoto lens. So, when my friend suggested we go to the Bandia Reserve for a “mini safari” experience, I was eager to join her, however, hearing the words, “reserve”, I must admit, I didn’t have many expectations. What I envisioned was more like a zoo.
But as our tour guide, Mass, arrived and herded us into his van, his excitement for the place he was taking us was a bit contagious. After a quick nap in the rear seat, I woke to spectacular sights during the long drive…colorful villages, Senegalese women balancing things on their heads, gaudy buses emblazoned with kooky paint jobs, men driving horse-drawn carts, huge baobab trees.
Though I was still a bit skeptical, the way Mass had described this place…3500 hectacres of grand nature…had me curious as to what we would find.
As we drove around the park, I was amazed. Although I knew this was extremely different from what I would find in say, Tanzania, Kenya or South Africa, I was impressed, especially when we came upon a large group of giraffes lounging in the road, blocking our way.
Fast forward to 2017, for my 50th birthday and 25th wedding anniversary, my husband and I finally went on safari in Tanzania. While vast acres of wilderness spread out before us in the Serengeti, Ngorogoro Crater and Tarangire National Park, my memories of the Bandia Reserve were not so different, except that we didn’t have as much expanse to drive around and that we never found the elusive rhinos that reside in Bandia.
Coming back to Dakar after being off for a year due to Covid, I was excited to see, once again, the city that holds such a dear place in my heart. I was even more excited to learn that a good friend would be flying with me and we, both avid photographers, made plans to go to revisit the Bandia Reserve.
I had made arrangements for Mass to drive us to Bandia Reserve and two other members of our work group decided to join us. After a long night of no sleep, (this time due to work…no cocktails!), we all dozed during the long drive, reminiscent of my first expedition. However, I was awake long enough to enjoy the colorful sights!
As we pulled into the park and exited our vehicle, the first thing I noticed was a gigantic baobab tree (sacred to the Senegalese) and a few monkeys scampering around its base. Mesmerized by these small apes and their antics, we were unaware that our vehicle was ready to be loaded and we had to be collected by Mass as our safari driver was ready to take us through the park.
Heading out on the bumpy, dirt roads, we passed through the part of the park that houses the giant tortoises and the hyenas. The hyenas have a place of “honor” behind a tall, secure chain link gate and are the only carnivores within the park. As you can imagine, since the park is secured by towering barricades at its borders, the other residents would be sitting ducks for these fierce, doglike creatures during their comestible pursuits.
Continuing into the wild, it wasn’t long before we had our first encounter. A group of giraffes were enjoying the shade of a robust baobab tree and the nearby thicket. One stood warily as we approached, seemingly ready to defend its turf if we ventured too close while others merely ignored our presence. A short drive away, we encountered a group of three young males eager to show their prowess by fighting each other by using their necks.
As we made our way down each of the dusty roads, we encountered, ostriches, giant eland, oryx, antelope, waterbuck, western Buffon’s cob, greater kudu, nyalas, impalas, gazelles, warthogs, buffalo, more monkeys, more giraffe and many species of bird.
Not long after an encounter with a pair of zebras, we were driving along and noticed another jeep parked down a narrow lane. Our driver quickly turned and approached slowly. What had eluded us on my first visit was sitting lazily under the tree in front of us…the park’s two rhinos! Resting in the shade, these magnificent creatures, used to being gawked at by visitors, merely looked over at us through heavily lidded eyes with much disinterest. Finally, one stood and took a few steps toward our vehicle, giving us more photographic opportunities and the impression that maybe we had worn out our welcome.
Backing slowly, we retreated the way we had come in search of more adventure in Bandia.
A short time later, after countless sighting of smaller animals and more giraffe, we came to another giant baobab tree and a sign, Tombeau de Griots (the Tomb of the Griots). This tree is one of the last baobab trees that house griot remains. The griots are considered masters of knowledge and keepers of historical records across generations. They include singers, poets, instrumentalists, musicians and storytellers who maintain a tradition of oral history in parts of West Africa. Because the baobabs are considered sacred and represent longevity and knowledge, they were chosen to be the appropriate place to store the remains of the griots.
I had remembered this place from my first visit and as I jumped out of the jeep and peered into the opening at the base of the baobab tree, I once again saw the skulls of the griots. They are protected by a metal screen so that the bones cannot be disturbed. Although these remains have been allowed to stay inside of this particular baobab tree due to it being on private property, since 1962, the burial of griots in baobabs has been banned due to the health risks of the decomposition of bodies.
After a couple of photos with my travel mates, we jumped back into our safari jeep and headed back to the front of the reserve. Inside the restaurant, we took a look at the crocodiles in the lake and skirted the monkeys looking for a handout from the diners.
Restaurants, shops and public areas at the Bandia Reserve.
It had already been a long day, but Mass decided that it was not over. Though we toyed with the idea of dining at the reserve, our guide promised us that he had a much better place. A short drive took us to the beachfront in Saly for some fresh seafood and picturesque views.
Once again, Senegal did not disappoint. Nature at its finest…on all fronts!
If you are visiting Dakar, make sure to book a trip to the Bandia Reserve, one of Senegal’s highlights. Also, right across the street is the Lion Ranch…your opportunity to see the big cats of Senegal. Definitely on my to-do list!
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Admission: Payments can be made in FCFA, Euros or by credit card. Adults, 12,000 FCFA or 18.50€, Children under 12 years, 7,000 FCFA or 10.50€. Use outside vehicle (personal, taxi, car), 10,000 FCFA or 15€, Safari truck rental with up to 11 seats, 40,000 FCFA or 61€, Safari truck rental up to 24 seats, 60,000 FCFA or 91€, Guide (compulsory)per vehicle, 6.500 FCFA or 10€.
Getting There: Coming from Dakar by motorway, take the Sindia/Popeguine exit number 14 to Sindia in 2 km, then take a right on the National Road (N1) Dakar-Mbour for 3,3 km, turn left at the signposts, continue the track in laterite for 800m. Coming from Saly, you will have 15 km to travel and 18 km from Mbour.
When the opportunity presented itself to spend a little time in Los Cabos, my first, I decided that it would be nice see the differences between these Mexican cities.
During our long drive to the hotel, I noticed that the scenery was certainly different. Dry and arid, the landscape offered little in the way of buildings or any other sights until we passed through the town of San Jose del Cabo, filled with colorful homes and businesses.
Crossing the bridge over the estuary, we began to spy larger properties lining the coast and more greenery. Our hotel, the J.W. Marriott, was one of the nicest I have ever stayed in. The rooms were beautiful and the grounds, impeccable. During our first afternoon, we spent time hanging in the countless pools that cascaded down the hillside, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. As we swam and waded near the pool bar, we enjoyed our drinks, the music and the occasional crash of the giant waves below.
A little dismayed that we were not walking distance to shopping or restaurants, we were able to secure a short Uber ride into nearby San Jose del Cabo, the town we had passed through on our way to the hotel. Dropped off in the center, near the town square, we marveled at the well-lit streets filled with galleries, shops, restaurants and colonial architecture. It truly was one of the most charming Mexican towns I had ever been to!
Colorful flags fluttered overhead as we approached Plaza Mijares. Here the town’s residents gathered on the Saturday night to visit near the gazebo and listen to music being performed on the stage. It was a lively affair, but the thing that caught my attention was Mission San Jose del Cabo Anuiti, the Catholic church keeping watch over the festivities from its perch on the high steps. With its origins dating back to 1730, the church is dedicated to St. Joseph and is the center of the community.
After a few quick photos with the San Jose del Cabo sign in front of the church, we decided to take a quick look inside. The church was bright and airy, narrow with high ceilings, but sadly in need of some repair. Not wanting to interrupt the parishioners in prayer, we stood at the rear and snapped a couple of quick photos.
Since we were in search of our dinner we continued on, occasionally ducking into the one of the countless galleries and courtyards filled with sculpture and cute shops stocked with intricately crafted souvenirs. Venturing away from the busier food joints, we finally found a quaint eatery filled with locals. I always say, “eat where the locals eat” and I can assert that we were not disappointed! After some amazing tacos, we decided to call it a night and head back to our home away from home.
The next morning, I awoke early and decided to spend a bit of time exploring the grounds of our wondrous hotel. Courtyards boasted sculpture and indigenous flowers and plants. The walkways were lined with color, the blossoms still wet with the morning’s dew. As I made my way back down to the lowest level, where we had spent time the day before, I skirted the chairs and umbrellas which awaited the sun-seeking guests and headed down the wooden staircase to the beach. Enjoying the warm sands between my toes, I made my way southward. The roar of the crashing waves that we heard the day before, was more intimidating in person and I noted that there were no beach chairs here. I wondered if that was due to Covid or just as a deterrent by the hotel to keep people off of the beach and out of the powerful current.
I pondered this as I continued my stroll skirting the rocks and tide pools. Why would someone travel all this way to stay at a beach resort where they could not use the beach? The ocean was beautiful to look out upon and the hotel’s cascading infinity pools were spectacular and refreshing, but couldn’t you enjoy an amazing pool elsewhere? Like, say Vegas? As a beach lover, I was a little perplexed and as I gazed up and down the beach, I rarely saw a soul.
Finishing my waterfront walk, I headed back up the hillside to the hotel grounds. It was getting close to the time to pack up and prepare to make my way back to the airport for my flight.
As I spoke to a fellow passenger on my flight, I was asked how I had enjoyed my trip to Los Cabos. Would I go back for a longer stay?
While I had enjoyed my visit, my answer was a convoluted one. Personally, I would love to go back to see more of San Jose del Cabo and maybe stay in one of the hotels in the nearby hotel zone…if and only if…I learned that the beaches were usable. My hotel was beautiful but left me wanting more. I think that those desiring privacy and luxury would love the J.W. Marriott, but I don’t think it would be my choice for more than a couple of nights.
How did Los Cabos compare to other Mexican cities that I visited in the past? It was a lovely place that I think that I would return to one day, however, the turquoise waters of Cancun and Cozumel are more of a draw for the things I enjoy.
With over two million visitors per year, Los Cabos is attractive to many and worth a look whether it be a short stay or long. I think the strength of the attraction is what someone is searching for…be it privacy, partying, sightseeing, golf or deep-sea fishing…definitely its allure is in the eye of the beholder.
I guess I was eyeing something not necessarily better, just a little bit different.
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There is just something about being surrounded by water, feeling the ocean breeze flowing through your hair and the sand between your toes!
Having visited many islands in my life and Florida on many occasions, Sanibel Island had somehow escaped me, although I had spent much time in the southern part of the state. I had always heard that it was the Shelling Capitol of the World and I was curious to see what this meant. Would the shells be so plentiful that they would pave a path along the beaches?
After leaving Key West and driving to the mainland, my husband and I decided that we needed to head to the western part of the state and check it out for ourselves. Finding our way to the Sanibel Inn, we checked in and took a quick walk to the beach. The weather wasn’t cooperating at the moment, so our stay was short, but just long enough to see how many shells were embedded in the sand at the top of the beach near the hotel’s path. Grabbing a few, I took them back to the room and gave them a quick washing. Seeing what I had motivated me to wake up early the next morning for an early scavenging.
As dim daylight filtered through the drawn curtains, my alarm went off. Swinging my legs over the side of the bed and heading to the window, I was a bit dismayed to find that while there was daylight, there was no sunlight. In fact, the sky was dark and a light drizzle was falling.
Well, it might not be tanning weather, but I had brought a hat and a raincoat.
Walking along the narrow beach, I collected shell after shell. Canvasing every square inch, I collected many similar ones with ideas for craft projects swimming around in my head. My bag was full when I headed back inside our hotel and the sun was finally starting to show its face. It was a good day…sand, shells and sun!
Before heading back to the beach for some swimming and tanning, we decided to take a quick drive to see what the twelve mile island had to offer.
Driving from one end to the other, we admired the beautiful homes that lined the shores in Captiva and then eventually found our way to the Sanibel Lighthouse at the eastern end of the island.
The Sanibel Island Lighthouse park encompasses the entire tip of the island. Attracting visitors for the wide array of activities is offers, we found the parking lots packed with vehicles for those visiting the beach, the fishing pier and of course, the lighthouse.
Having just been to the lighthouse in Key West, it was interesting to see the differences between the two. Though visitors are allowed around the historic lighthouse, none are allowed to climb the 127 steps to the top of the 98 foot structure, like we were in Key West.
Much like the Key West structure, the lighthouse was built in the 1800s by settlers of the island. First lit on August 20th, 1884 with kerosene oil, the lighthouse keeper, Dudley Richardson, the keeper from 1884 until 1892, had to get to the top of the lighthouse by walking up an external spiral staircase. Various other keepers followed Richardson and lived on the premises in the structures you can still see today.
In 1949, the job was discontinued and the lighthouse became automated. The lighthouse continued its duty until 1972 when the Coast Guard proposed that it be decommissioned. The mariners in the area and the residents, however, opposed and halted the idea. In 1982, the buildings on the premises were offered to Sanibel residents to live in for free in exchange for its maintenance. In 2004, the Coast Guard gave the lighthouse to the City of Sanibel and it was restored in 2013.
It was nice to walk around the premises, although the museum was not open, and we ventured out to the crowded beach area. We also took a walk on the pier and watched the fisherman and the boats that passed nearby.
Finally, we headed back to our little beach, which had become smaller with the incoming tide, and relaxed while watching the large number of birds that come to enjoy the clear waters.
And of course, I grabbed a few more shells!
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The best part is that everyone’s idea of treasure is in the eye of the beholder.
Recently, with COVID19 restricting travel, I found myself with a lot of free time on my hands. Normally, in June, I am home only about a third of the month, with conventions, training and other events that take me away. This year, being unable to commute to work due to the loss of so many flights, I found myself wandering aimlessly around my home, looking for things to do, browsing my travel photos and just generally missing my usual lifestyle.
Sometimes, however, when one door is closed, another opens.
One of my best friends owns a house on the island of Cuttyhunk, just off of the coast of New Bedford, Massachusetts. Every year, she opens her house at the end of May for the summer and every year, the invitation is extended for me to visit.
Because of the ferry schedule, Cuttyhunk isn’t the easiest place to travel to and only once in recent years was I able to work it out. Two summers ago, a few of our friends and I, were able to go out for a quick weekend getaway. Though we enjoyed our visit, it was too early during the season (and still too cool) to see what summers on the island entail.
As I struggled with being home for such a great length of time, Kathie reached out and asked if I would be interested in keeping her company for a while on the island.
Mindful of the cool weather I had experienced beforehand, it was an exercise in balancing my summer wardrobe with pieces that could still keep me warm for those crazy days when the ocean winds decided otherwise.
After finally making my way north and an uneventful ferry ride, I learned that being there in mid June gives you a new perspective. Things certainly were different than on my first visit!
There was lots more activity. More people. More boats in the harbor.
And the best part, for a warm-weather loving person like myself, it was bathing suit and beach weather! Well…on most days!
There are quite a few beaches that surround the island and we made sure to take our daily walks on them all.
My favorite part was how much the beaches changed shape every day due to the tides, currents and waves. It was interesting to find that while some beaches were rocky one day, they were sandy the next and you never would know what might have washed in overnight.
Kathie was always on the lookout for beach glass. Always amazed at how she could spot the tiniest pieces, I instead focused my attention on driftwood and shells, with my ultimate goal of putting it together to form some sort of artpiece.
As we traversed the mile and half long by three quarters wide island, we poked the soft sand and seaweed, strolled along the waters edge and analyzed the tide pools along Channel, Church, West End and Barges Beaches. Crab traps lay half buried in the sand, and crabs and other crustaceans, both live and dead, small and large, could be spotted everywhere we walked. Barnacles and and long seaweed fingers clung to the side of the boulders and lengths of rope, of all circumferences and colors lay knotted around pieces of driftwood.
Rubber gloves, which may have fallen from fishing boats, could be spotted and they were usually displayed with great fanfare and sometimes obscene gestures. The fishermen, who mark their traps and fishing spots with buoys, were probably disappointed to find that many of their markers had washed ashore.
There were some interesting seashells and colorful granite rocks ground smooth from years of being subject to the pounding waves.
Looking out to sea, it was always interesting to see the many boats making their way to the island, some from the mainland and some from neighboring Martha’s Vineyard. As we walked along Barges Beach, I mistakenly took the remains of the fourteen barges that litter the shoreline as shipwrecks. In fact, these barges were buried here in 1949 to stabilize the land damaged by a 1944 Nor’easter. Though they are slowing eroding away themselves, they provide a natural habitat for some of the island’s creatures and a place to capture some unique beach shots.
As we walked near the sand dunes, we watched the sandpipers and seagulls soar around us, and the occasional rabbit hop our way.
Every day was a new day.
You never know what you were going to find!
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Are there any movies that have a scene that just “sticks” with you?
I have always loved the movie Under the Tuscan Sun. One memorable scene is when the main character, Frances, goes to Positano to meet her amore Marcello.
I had never seen any place quite like the alluring town cascading down the mountainside toward the sea. I remember thinking, that I needed to see this Italian paradise for myself!
It had been sixteen years since I had seen that movie and I had still not made it to Positano. Since my son and I were staying in Naples, we decided that we would make the journey to Positano to fulfill my dream of visiting this beautiful town on the Amalfi Coast.
Taking the same Circumvesuviana train that we had taken a couple of days before to Pompeii, we continued on, past that stop, to Sorrento. Here, we purchased tickets for the City Sightseeing bus to Positano. The winding journey along the coast was picturesque, alternating between grassy fields, small towns, mountain passes and ocean views. Thirty-five minutes later, as we drove along a cliffside road, Positano suddenly came into view…and it was breathtaking!
As we were dropped off along the main road, we headed on foot toward the town’s center. It was hard to make headway on the narrow sidewalks clogged with throngs of tourists and because every few feet, we had to stop at the many spectacular overlooks.
There it was! The quaint and colorful Italian town of Positano…defying gravity and clinging to the cliffs of the Amalfi coast!
Scanning the map we had grabbed at the Sorrento train station, we decided to head toward the town’s center. Turning on to the pedestrian friendly Viale Passitea, we ducked into the small church on the corner. Finding it to be charming, yet unassuming, our visit was short as we were anxious to see what lay in store for us further down the steep path down to the coast.
The walkway, at times, was covered by beautiful trellises covered with bougainvillea, keeping us cooler during the heat of the day, and we passed an endless number of shops selling artwork, clothing, shoes and gifts. There were boutiques, art galleries, ceramic shops and many artists working on their craft. Moving with the crowds, it was impossible to take it all in!
Eventually, we found ourselves in the heart of Positano, the seafront, with its many restaurants lining the boardwalk and its golden beach filled with hundreds of sun seekers, hoping to bring home a souvenir tan.
The Church of Santa Maria Assunta, with its iconic multi-colored dome, lies parallel to the azur waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Marina Grande and from its piazza, set higher on the cliff, it is a popular spot to look out over the seaside.
Heading inside to snag a reprieve from the heat, we found the beauty of this church, dating back to the 10th century abbot it once was, to be quite spectacular.
Santa Maria Assunta was established when a Byzantine icon of the Blessed Virgin was brought to Positano by the order of the Benedictines. Part of the cargo of a sailing ship from the East, the icon was credited with a miracle. Stopped by a dead calm and unable to sail, the sailors heard a voice calling out, “Posa! Posa!” (“Put me down”). Interpreting the words to mean that that they were to head to shore, it was then that the ship was able to sail once again and headed to the small community that eventually gained it’s name, Positano, from the Virgin’s words. The Virgin was given to the residents who chose her as their patron and built a church in her honor.
After a falling into disrepair, restorations began in the late 1700’s and lasted five years when Archbishop Antonio Puoti crowned the Virgin’s icon with a golden crown. Today, the statue of the Madonna is heavily guarded in St. Stephen’s chapel but is displayed on the main altar (as it was was during our visit), on special religious occasions and carried in procession on the beach on August 15…disappointing that we would miss this important celebration a few days away.
Amidst the interior, which boasts a nave, two aisles and five arches, there are five chapels on each side. On the right, you can admire the chapels of St. Blaise, the Immaculate Conception, St. Anthony, and St. Anne followed by the Altar of the Circumcision on the right end. Displayed here is the rare painting, Circumcision by Fabrizio Santafede dating back to 1599.
“Circumcision” by Fabrizio Santafede
Above the high altar is the Byzantine icon of the Blessed Virgin. To the right, is the Chapel of St. Stephen, which in addition to usually housing the Madonna statue, also displays one of the most valuable works of art in the Amalfi Coast; the embossed silver reliquary bust of St. Vito, dating back to the 16th century. The chapel also contains relics of other martyrs.
The Chapel of St. StephenThe Bust of St. Vitus
Make sure not to miss the two niches on each side of the apse which house Our Lady of Sorrows on the right and a valuable Christ at the column (1798) on the left, the chapel of the Blessed Sacrament to the left of the high altar and the altar of Our Lady of Mount Carmel which contains a beautiful painting from the Chartreuse of Serra San Bruno in Calabria. The chapels of the Crucifixion, the Annunciation, St. Vito and St. Nicholas of Bari are located along the left aisle.
When exiting the church, take a glance upwards at the majestic organ above the central door in the choir and check out the baptismal font in the right corner.
There are many treasures throughout this historic church and you should allow yourself enough time to wander freely. Even outside, you can take note of the belltower, which was built in 1707, and above the belltower door a medieval bas-relief portraying the seven fish and a wolf mermaid. Above the relief, a stone dating back to 1902, remembers Flavio Gioia of Positano, the inventor of the compass.
Heading toward the Spiaggia Grand (Big Beach), it was tempting to shed out outer layers for a quick, refreshing dip, however, we didn’t want to shell out money for umbrellas on the private side (left) for such a short time and the public side (right) was quite congested. Besides, if we got all wet and sandy, it would make the rest of our afternoon and evening, which was to include dinner in Sorrento, a bit uncomfortable.
So…we opted for gelato instead!
After our frosty treat, we glanced out at three of the thirty watchtowers that once protected the Amalfi coast from Saracen pirates. These towers were all within sight of each other and communication warning of danger was in the form of smoke signals.
We then headed west along the Via Positanesi D’America, a small lane that runs along the coast towards the Positano’s small beach, Fornillo, where the locals go to escape the tourist crowds. It was hot, but we were rewarded with beautiful views of the azur waters and a close-up view of the Torre Trasita (16th century), one of the historical watchtowers, located on the rocky cliff. Today, this tower operates as a guesthouse and rooms can be rented by the night for a unique experience on the Amalfi Coast.
Fornillo Beach
Fornillo Beach
Realizing that much of our day had flown by, it was time to head back to the bus stop and to Sorrento.
Though there are so many beautiful towns to explore past Positano (Praiano, Amalfi, Ravello), time was not on our side. If we wanted to discover Sorrento, it was time to say arrivederci to Positano.
Though Positano was positively stunning and we enjoyed our visit, I do have to admit that it was not quite as I envisioned because I had first experienced it from a cinematic point of view…no crowds, no soul-sucking summertime heat, no Marcello… Although a little disillusioned, I did have to stop and remind myself that we were visiting the Amalfi Coast during one of the most busy times of the year. Getting a taste of it made me realize what it could be at another time.
So, yes, it was not goodbye…it was definitely until I see Positano again!
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Pickup point Sorrento, Piazza di Curtis, behind the Circumvesuviana train station. Drop off in Positano is Spoda bus stop.
Fare: The 1st “Coast to Coast” line ticket is priced at €10.00 per person, one way. Return ticket can be purchased for €6.00 by showing the €10.00 ticket purchased on the same day. If you need to other trips on the same day the cost will always be €6.00.
There was much that I had discovered and enjoyed while visiting the Outer Banks and then I found a bit more!
While driving near the lighthouse, I noticed a sign for the Outer Banks Center for Wildlife Education. I had some time to spare, so I decided to check it out.
The Outer Banks Center for Wildlife Education, located at Currituck Heritage Park, is dedicated to exploring coastal North Carolina’s wildlife, natural history and heritage. From the time you walk through the doors, you experience beautiful taxidermied specimens (including a large bear, perfect for a photo op) and dioramas showcasing the area’s history, species and residents that follow the “Life by Water’s Rhythm” theme. Emphasis is placed on the lifestyle and livelihood that is garnered from hunting, trapping, fishing and living along the coastal region.
Most interesting was a movie about the Sound, its resources and duck hunting history. A great deal was revealed about the Whalehead Club and how it’s existence as a lavish hunting retreat in the 1920’s shaped the area as a tourist destination.
My favorite part of the entire exhibit, however, was the display of handcrafted duck decoys. These beautifully crafted pieces made by James Best were captivating in their detail and craftsmanship.
After your indoor visit, make sure to take the outdoor nature trail where birds and nutria can be spotted in their natural habitat. Other activities include kayak tours, fishing, crabbing and archery and visits to the historic Whalehead Club.
If you need a little more than just a beach visit while in Corolla, make sure to check out this educational gem.
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Hours: April until October, 0900-1700, Monday through Saturday. Closed Sundays. November until March, 0900-1700, Monday through Friday. Closed Saturday and Sunday
There are approximately 60,000 free-roaming horses in the United States and Canada.
If you have the opportunity to visit one of the locations where they reside…you should take full advantage.
A couple of years ago, while visiting friends in North Carolina’s Outer Banks, I went in search of the many different horse statues that graced the barrier island.
These statues were placed throughout the different communities to commemorate the wild Spanish mustangs that roam the northern beaches of Corolla and Carova and are believed to be the descendants of shipwrecked horses from centuries prior.
This year, I went in search of the real horses.
Though you can access the northern beaches by four-wheel drive vehicles and search for these beautiful, four-legged creatures by yourself, there is always the risk of getting bogged down in the loose, deep sand. I wasn’t that brave.
For those who are not as adventurous (or do not own a four-wheel drive vehicle), there are safari-type tours that will drive you there (and back) in search of the horses and this is what I decided to do.
Leaving early in the morning, we headed out in the open-air, twelve-seat vehicle towards the end of the Ocean Trail to the North Beach Access Road where the pavement ends and the sand begins at the Currituck National Wildlife Refuge.
Not long after beginning our journey on the sandy expanse, we slowed our trek as we spotted a group of seven mustangs standing along the waterfront. Not to be intimidated by our presence, they stood in two groups, huddled against the morning breeze.
Advised that we would keep our distance, we strove to get the best photos from our viewpoint a short distance away while these creatures alternately stood together and sometimes took a rest on the sand.
After a short while, we said goodbye and moved onward in search of more, scanning the tall sand dunes that protected the beach homes that line the coast and driving inland on the many unpaved roads that harbor additional homes on the inlet.
There were many more horses to be spotted that day; two holding court atop a towering dune, a group of four grazing in a grassy field, the lone male trotting along down a sandy road, a group of three blocking our passage on Sandfiddler Road.
All in all, we spotted twenty-one mustangs during our excursion while also enjoying the amazing, beachfront homes, alluring landscapes and even a bit of history.
The Wash Woods Station provides an interesting change in the architecture along the beach and was built as a lifesaving station in 1917 to replace an outdated station (Deals Island Station #6) a few miles north. It was named for a small village located just north of the Virginia border and housed many guardsmen who kept lookout, especially during times of war when enemy ships cruised along the coast.
After the war, the need for personnel decreased until only a single caretaker remained. The station was decommissioned in late 1954 or early 1955. It served as a private vacation home for a time and then was restored in 1989. Today you can enjoy its construction from afar and occasionally even a horse on the property.
Eventually, we made our way back the way we had come, taking time to stop to enjoy the views from Penny Hill, the second largest dune in North Carolina.
Finally, our adventure was coming to a close and it was time for everyone to head back to their beach chairs and sun!
As I sat in my chair later that day, I turned my head and looked northward. I thought about the magnificent ponies that hold court not that far from where I was seated. Though they were not as colorful as the ones that I had sought out two years before, they were the true color of the landscape.
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