Tag: wildlife photography

Wisdom and Wildlife

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Beaches, sun, horses, lighthouses, churches…

There was much that I had discovered and enjoyed while visiting the Outer Banks and then I found a bit more!

While driving near the lighthouse, I noticed a sign for the Outer Banks Center for Wildlife Education. I had some time to spare, so I decided to check it out.

The Outer Banks Center for Wildlife Education, located at Currituck Heritage Park, is dedicated to exploring coastal North Carolina’s wildlife, natural history and heritage. From the time you walk through the doors, you experience beautiful taxidermied specimens (including a large bear, perfect for a photo op) and dioramas showcasing the area’s history, species and residents that follow the “Life by Water’s Rhythm” theme. Emphasis is placed on the lifestyle and livelihood that is garnered from hunting, trapping, fishing and living along the coastal region.

Most interesting was a movie about the Sound, its resources and duck hunting history. A great deal was revealed about the Whalehead Club and how it’s existence as a lavish hunting retreat in the 1920’s shaped the area as a tourist destination.

My favorite part of the entire exhibit, however, was the display of handcrafted duck decoys. These beautifully crafted pieces made by James Best were captivating in their detail and craftsmanship.

After your indoor visit, make sure to take the outdoor nature trail where birds and nutria can be spotted in their natural habitat. Other activities include kayak tours, fishing, crabbing and archery and visits to the historic Whalehead Club.

If you need a little more than just a beach visit while in Corolla, make sure to check out this educational gem.

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Outer Banks Center for Wildlife Education

The Real Ponies of OBX

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There are approximately 60,000 free-roaming horses in the United States and Canada.

If you have the opportunity to visit one of the locations where they reside…you should take full advantage.

A couple of years ago, while visiting friends in North Carolina’s Outer Banks, I went in search of the many different horse statues that graced the barrier island.

These statues were placed throughout the different communities to commemorate the wild Spanish mustangs that roam the northern beaches of Corolla and Carova and are believed to be the descendants of shipwrecked horses from centuries prior.

This year, I went in search of the real horses.

Though you can access the northern beaches by four-wheel drive vehicles and search for these beautiful, four-legged creatures by yourself, there is always the risk of getting bogged down in the loose, deep sand. I wasn’t that brave.

For those who are not as adventurous (or do not own a four-wheel drive vehicle), there are safari-type tours that will drive you there (and back) in search of the horses and this is what I decided to do.

Leaving early in the morning, we headed out in the open-air, twelve-seat vehicle towards the end of the Ocean Trail to the North Beach Access Road where the pavement ends and the sand begins at the Currituck National Wildlife Refuge.

Not long after beginning our journey on the sandy expanse, we slowed our trek as we spotted a group of seven mustangs standing along the waterfront. Not to be intimidated by our presence, they stood in two groups, huddled against the morning breeze.

Advised that we would keep our distance, we strove to get the best photos from our viewpoint a short distance away while these creatures alternately stood together and sometimes took a rest on the sand.

After a short while, we said goodbye and moved onward in search of more, scanning the tall sand dunes that protected the beach homes that line the coast and driving inland on the many unpaved roads that harbor additional homes on the inlet.

There were many more horses to be spotted that day; two holding court atop a towering dune, a group of four grazing in a grassy field, the lone male trotting along down a sandy road, a group of three blocking our passage on Sandfiddler Road.

All in all, we spotted twenty-one mustangs during our excursion while also enjoying the amazing, beachfront homes, alluring landscapes and even a bit of history.

The Wash Woods Station provides an interesting change in the architecture along the beach and was built as a lifesaving station in 1917 to replace an outdated station (Deals Island Station #6) a few miles north. It was named for a small village located just north of the Virginia border and housed many guardsmen who kept lookout, especially during times of war when enemy ships cruised along the coast.

After the war, the need for personnel decreased until only a single caretaker remained. The station was decommissioned in late 1954 or early 1955. It served as a private vacation home for a time and then was restored in 1989. Today you can enjoy its construction from afar and occasionally even a horse on the property.

Eventually, we made our way back the way we had come, taking time to stop to enjoy the views from Penny Hill, the second largest dune in North Carolina.

Finally, our adventure was coming to a close and it was time for everyone to head back to their beach chairs and sun!

As I sat in my chair later that day, I turned my head and looked northward. I thought about the magnificent ponies that hold court not that far from where I was seated. Though they were not as colorful as the ones that I had sought out two years before, they were the true color of the landscape.

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Horse Tour Companies


Seeing the Sea Lions

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Pier 39 was opened in 1978 as an entertainment, dining and shopping venue and has attracted thousands of visitors since its inception.

It has also attracted something else.

Sea Lions.

While sea lions have always been present in San Francisco Bay, they have only become a tourist attraction since 1989. Having always been seen on Seal Rock, the majority of the population has decided to change their location and starting lounging on the docks of Pier 39, where it is speculated that they feel safer.

Though the sea lions only appear seasonally, due to their migration habits, the best time to see them is during the spring, usually between February until June or July when they leave to seek out their food sources.

When they can be found at Pier 39, they are a source of pure entertainment for visitors with their playful antics. I enjoyed sitting on the platforms installed to provide optimum viewing of the large creatures which can weigh up to half a ton. They are known for their intelligence, playfulness and noisy barking but despite the fact that thousands of people come to see them every day, they usually avoid humans.

After you enjoy your free show at Pier 39, take some time to walk around, enjoy a great meal, buy some souvenirs and check out some of the performers that put on frequent shows on the premises.

No matter what you end up doing at Pier 39, however, you will always hear the blubbery creatures barking in the distance, so don’t feel bad if you have to go check them out one more time!

I did!

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Pier 39

  • https://www.pier39.com/
  • Address: The Embarcadero, San Francisco, CA 94133
  • Hours: 1000-2200, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There:

Sawa Sawa

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

As we drove out of Tarangire National Park, one thing repeated itself over and over in my head.

“Sawa Sawa”.

A year ago, I didn’t know what the Swahili phrase meant.  Now, if I am completing something, I hear Fahad’s throaty voice asking, “Sawa Sawa?”

Whenever we were out in one of the parks and we were ready to move on, Fahad would always ask in Swahili, “Sawa Sawa?”  Though technically translated to English, it means “equal”, it also is means, “fine”, “all good” and “no worries” and what Fahad was asking was if we were ready to go.

Though we were not ready to move on, it was time for our adventure to end and time to return to Arusha, Nairobi and then home.

Driving through the park, heading to the exit, in order to make our way back to Arusha, we looked out at the elephants and giraffes, the baobab trees and the amazing landscapes that we had admired over the past week.

I definitely was not going miss the bumpy roads or the tsetse flies, but I would miss the beauty of each day, the animals, the scrumptious cuisine, our quaint lodges, local beer, our new friends, Mathilda (our 4×4),  and, of course, Fahad.

I was going to miss Tanzania.

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Land of the Elephants and Baobabs

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Mating lions.  Lounging cheetahs.  Charging elephants.  Jumping warriors.

These were some of the amazing things we had seen so far on our Tanzanian adventure.  What could Tarangire National Park possibly offer up that would be so different?

Turning off of Tarangire Road, we soon found ourselves at the Tarangire National Park Visitor’s Center.  The sixth largest national park in Tanzania is located in the Manyara Region and is famous for it high density of elephants and baobab trees.  Though I had seen my fair share of baobab trees in Senegal, it was something new for many in our group.

The Visitor’s Center was a nice place to stretch our legs for a short time while Fahad and our other guides checked us in.  The area was lined with walking paths which we utilized as we made our way to an impressive wooden staircase and viewing platform.  Adjacent to a baobob tree, a species which we had begun to notice growing in the region while on our journey to Tarangire, the platform allowed an up-close and personal look at the “tree of life” as they are also known.  These massive trees reach heights of sixteen to ninety-eight feet and have trunk diameters of twenty-three to thirty-six feet.  The trees are the largest and most important in Africa as their trunk can hold up to 120,000 liters of water and they provide shelter and wood.  For most of the year, the tree is leafless and it appears that it has it roots sticking up in the air, earning it another nickname, “the upside-down tree”, however, when the leaves can be harvested, they are used for making soup and medicine.

Termite mounds were very common in the Serengeti, however, we were never able to exit our vehicles to see them up close.  Here at the Visitor’s Center, we were able to follow one of the paths to see one at arm’s length and we learned that they were plenty throughout the park, many housing armies of dwarf mongooses.

Soon, it was time to move along and begin our game drive while enroute to the Tarangire Sopa Lodge…there would be many baobabs, termite mounds and a wealth of wildlife throughout the two days we would spend here.

Our first impression of Tarangire was a hot and sweaty one.  Much more arid and dry than the other two parks, it was also sweltering and teeming with tsetse flies.  The blue and black flags were present throughout the park and although they didn’t cause me much anguish, my travel mates suffered their piercing bites.

Because of the scorching temperatures, the watering holes were where we were headed.  Giraffes and zebras gathered around an oasis of green-tinted water and herds of elephants lined the banks of the Tarangire River, the primary source of fresh water in the Tarangire Ecosystem.

As we sat high on a ridge, overlooking the river valley, we watched as zebras, giraffes and wildebeests joined the elephants, all inhabiting the area harmoniously.

A short drive later, we soon found ourselves at the Tarangire Sopa Lodge our final resting place on our safari.

The next day, with an early start, we found ourselves watching the sun rise above the baobab trees and termite mounds which seemed to greet us at every turn.

There were many other animals, as to be expected, however, throughout the day, we encountered a large number of leopards and cheetahs, some lounging on the trees’ large limbs and some stalking their prey in the high, yellow grass.

At a different part of the river, we watched zebras and wildebeests parading in long lines to bathe and drink, vultures maintaining a sharp eye on the surrounding area and hyenas mud-bathing on the banks.

Throughout the park, male ostriches danced along, bobbing their bright pink necks with females remaining aloof.  At one point, while driving along, we noticed what appeared to be a male ostrich resting in the grass.  Waiting for it to rise, we soon noticed that it was not alone.  Not only had we been fortunate to spy the mating ritual of lions while at Ngorongoro, but now, we were able to witness that of the ostrich!

Other birds were quite plentiful throughout the park, with it being the home to more than 550 species.  Bird enthusiasts converge upon the park with the hopes of spotting the numerous flocks within the trees and within and around the watering holes and we were quite charmed to spot many.

Giraffes were a common sight and our favorite was an old guy who stood right beside the road and our vehicle.  He seemed as mesmerized by us as we were of him and although the lighting was behind him, I was able to capture some funny photos.  Yes, funny…he appears to be smiling at us!

The elephants…Tarangire’s claim to fame…were everywhere.  The largest elephant population in Tanzania has herds of up to 300 even out of the dry season, ensuring sightings throughout the year.  Many baby elephants followed their mothers and we even watched a youngster running and trumpeting to alert his herd that he was left behind.  Teenagers…they are all the same!

As the day drew on and the sun approached the horizon, three of my favorite memories presented themselves.

First, after a call on our radio, Fahad sped along the dusty roads, finally coming to a stop at the base of a large hill.   Here, many 4x4s had gathered around a large, low-limbed tree.  On the branches rested three female lions.  Though it was hard to capture them photographically in the failing afternoon light, it was fascinating to spot them in the tree.  Though we had seen many cheetahs resting in the trees throughout our trip, this was a first for us…and honestly, I don’t think I ever realized that lions climb trees!

Our second encounter was with an imposing herd of wildebeests.  Stretching out as far as we could see, a few approached the road, attempting to cross.  We stopped to watch, hoping to see them make their way in front of us.  After a few timid tries, one (we nicknamed her Helen), was a bit more brazen than the rest.  Stopping to think about the passage, she looked around for a while, finally breaking into a slight run and eventually a full gallop.  The others, watching her carefully, mimicked her actions and began to run across the road.  Soon the massive herd crossed immediately before us, stirring up a huge dust cloud, in a thunderous roar!

Giddy with the excitement of seeing the wildebeests, we made our way towards to the lodge at full speed.  Knowing Fahad only drives quickly when there is something special to see, we wondered what it could be as he had not received any calls on the radio and the sun was heavy on the horizon.  Pulling over to the side of the road, we looked out on the landscape to a massive baobab, filled with vultures and the bright orange sun setting behind it.  I couldn’t have pictured a more fitting end to our day in the land of the elephants and baobabs!

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Tarangire National Park

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tarangire National Park

On the Edge

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Located at the highest point on Ngorongoro Crater’s entire rim and offering unsurpassed views of the crater, lies the Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge.

Greeted upon our arrival, once again, with refreshing cool towels and mouthwatering drinks, we received our keys and followed our porters to check out our new accommodations.

The entire resort is themed around traditional circular African houses with conical roofs and our rooms, grouped in sets of four, were no exception.

Walking into our temporary residence, we checked out the entry hall complete with armoire and minibar.  The circular room, was very interesting with its brick side tables, headboards, foot boards and vanity.   African print bedding graced the berth but no artwork adorned the elliptical walls.  Instead, the curtains were drawn, exposing a wall of windows looking out onto the crater and the rain-forests at the rim.  Indeed, who needs artwork when you can admire this!

Difficult as it was to tear myself away, we set out to enjoy the beautiful sunset from the luxurious westward facing lounge and pool area before heading to the dramatic dining room with its soaring ceilings.

The service, once again, was incredible and the food a remarkable exhibition of the chef’s amazing talent.

On our second evening, we enjoyed an interesting talk given by a local ranger of the history and diversity of the crater, complete with an interesting slideshow.  Our absolute favorite thing about the lodge, however, was the hot water bottles that were placed in our beds each night to help combat the chill!  We didn’t have the mosquito netting here at the crater as the temperatures were too chilly, but the hot water bottles were a nice touch!

We loved leaving our windows open to the chilled mountain air, even though we were subject to the sounds of Africa.  In fact, being able to hear the outside environment, led to some amazing sightings.

On our first evening, in the waning light, we noticed Cape Buffalo foraging in the brush.  A little later, a mountain reedbuck was grazing near our windows. So enthralled by this close-up encounter, I could have passed on dinner and watched this active display.  No wonder there was no television and wifi available in our rooms!  Also, in the middle of our first night, we were awakened by grunting and discovered zebras scratching their hind quarters on the lodge.  The following evening, we were roused by the sound of a heavy movement through the brush.  Two large elephant were walking near the top of the rim.  It is a wonder that we actually got any sleep!

The encounters weren’t restricted to our rooms, however.  One evening, one of the members of our group took us outside to see a large owl resting on the rear patio.  Monkeys continued to wander the premises and many guests had to hang on to their belongings to keep the sneaky primates from helping themselves.  The most exhilarating (and alarming) encounter, however, was when we were exiting the rear of the lodge and headed back to our rooms.  A guard greeted us and informed us that he would be escorting us.  The flashing of light and excited voices near the pool caught our attention.  A Cape Buffalo was standing near the pool, mere yards from our location!

Though we had visited and departed the crater a few hours before, we hadn’t really left it behind.

Definitely one of the most interesting places we have ever stayed!

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Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge

The Descent

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

If seeing the Maasai up close and personal was the main thing that I wanted to do on my safari, Ngorongoro Crater was a close second.

So many people look a bit confused when you mention Ngorongoro Crater…it’s something they have probably seen before in pictures, but not something that they have ever given much thought to.  Me?  I knew exactly what it was and I couldn’t wait to see it!

After leaving Olduvai Gorge, we began the long and winding road up to the rim of the crater.  Passing many villages on the way, we also continued to see the occasional giraffe and dust devil in the distance.   We relished the giraffe sightings as we know that we would not be seeing any in the crater as their long legs prohibit them from descending and ascending the steep crater walls.

Passing the luxurious (and wildly expensive) Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, we knew we were almost there.  Only six lodges sit on the crater rim, offering a bed capacity of only 560 along with sixteen campsites.  Realizing how very few people are allowed here every night, it dawned on us what a privilege the journey was that we were about to undertake.

As our 4×4 climbed the steep road, we breathed a sigh of relief when we finally pulled into a parking area on the side of the road.  This was it…our first view of Ngorongoro Crater!

Standing on the viewing platform, we gazed out on the crater’s unadulterated beauty.  Far below us, we could distinguish the magnificent savannah plains, highlands and forest canopies, detect herds of large animals on the crater floor and see some safari vehicles traveling along the crisscrossing roads.  Tomorrow, that would be us.

Completing the final part of our journey, we were soon pulling into our home for the next two nights, the Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge.

Settling in, we were soon enjoying cocktails while admiring the stunning sunset from the lodge’s lounge and it’s westward facing location.  Small monkeys paraded around the grounds and a couple of Cape Buffalo were spotted near the rear of the lodge foraging for their dinner.

The next morning, up bright and early and outfitted appropriately for the colder temperatures of the crater’s rim, we set out under the darkness of the new morning.  After a brief stop to check in at the Ranger’s station, we began making our way down the canopy covered road.

Centuries ago, a towering volcanic mountain, as high as Kilimanjaro, stood in this spot.  After a tremendous eruption, the volcano’s interior, empty of magma, could no longer support the weight above and collapsed on itself.  It became the world’s sixth-largest unbroken caldera with more than a hundred square miles in its flat bottom, which did not flood.  Its diverse environment of savannas, marshes, lakes, salt pans, forests and escarpments then became the home for many species of African wildlife, which we hoped to see.

As luck would have it, the first sighting of the day was of some “honeymooners”.  Not the human kind…these honeymooners were two separate sets of male and female lions almost lost in the tall grass. The lion mating ritual was one of complete interest, once the affair was explained to us by our guide.

The female, already in estrus, attracts the male who mounts her, inserting his penis, which has barbs that begin to dig into the female.  As he retracts, the pain caused to the female causes her to lash out at him, swatting her large paws at him.  As the mating ritual continues approximately every fifteen minutes for as many as five days, the female produces eggs and the chances of fertilization is increased.

Watching both of these interesting spectacles for their many attempts, we noticed one of the male’s brothers lying in wait…hoping for a chance at the female if she tired of his sibling.

Moving on, we spied many other animals that we had yet to see during our trek…a lone jackal, a pair of nocturnal bat-eared foxes returning to their den for a days rest and finally…wildebeests.  Thousands of blue wildebeests roamed the crater floor, grazing in the early morning light.

Personally, I love the wildebeests for their unique appearance.  Nicknamed “Spare Parts”, it’s easy to see why as they look like they were made from so many other animals!  Their forequarters look like they come from an ox, their hindquarters from an antelope and their mane and tail from a horse.

Driving along the countless trails that span the crater floor, a female lion was spotted alongside the road.  A few 4x4s stopped to admire her reserved beauty as she lounged in the heat of the new day.  Soon, tiring of her grassy spot, she stood and ambled over to the road, making her way between two of the safari vehicles.  Laziness prevailed and she quickly decided that the middle of the road was much better than her previous spot.  Too bad for those trying to make their way!

Continuing on, we passed another pride of lions while continuing over a hill admiring the many zebras making their way in a line along the ridge.  As we crested the hill, before us stood a most beautiful oasis!

Truly, my breath was taken away as we looked out at the clouds wrapping their misty fingers over the crater’s rim and the reflections within a pond lying before us, only broken by the occasional movement of the many hippo lounging within.

As we pulled up to the pond, preparing to have our breakfast here, I stepped out of our safari vehicle to stretch my legs and to make my way to the restroom facilities.  A huge splash and a loud grunt, however, caught my attention.  Mesmerized, I watched an extremely large hippo lunge through the pond toward another, bellowing loudly.  The next few minutes were filled with two hippos berating each other, whipping their tales and splashing wildly while engaging the other in a sinister altercation.

Knowing that many deaths are attributed to hippos each year did not deter me from venturing closer and closer to the lake in an attempt to catch this exhibition on camera, so fascinating as it was!  It was the most exciting thing we had seen thus far!

Soon, the hippos tired of each other and moved on to meld with the other hippos wading in the shallows of the basin.

Enjoying our breakfast, we marveled at our surroundings, basking in its endless beauty.  I couldn’t stop watching the clouds rolling over the top of the crater, the succession of zebras that continued to make their way over the hill behind us and to the rear of the lake and the hippos that continued to laze in the murky waters.  Honestly, I don’t know if I have ever been in a more beautiful place!

Our morning meal completed, we reluctantly moved on, migrating with the other vehicles along the dusty crater roads.  Flightless male ostriches flaunted their pink necks and plumage and my favorite feathered creature in the crater, the Secretary Bird, made itself known throughout our journey.

Our next stop was at another hippo pool.  This one and its surroundings, however, were filled with so much activity, we were unsure where to focus our attention.  In the pool, hippos lounged lazily, occasionally flipping over to flash their undersides and countless birds waded in the shallows and lingered along the banks.  Ranks of zebras, head to tail, made their way along the rear of the pool and in the distance we spotted something amazing…a pride of lions guarding their kill!

Lazing in the mid-morning sun after their filling meal, they allowed the occasional hyena and jackal to enjoy the remnants of the slaughtered Cape Buffalo.  Meanwhile, a herd of Cape Buffalo, possibly the relations of the deceased, moved closer and closer to the pride, finally coming to a standoff.  The herd, wanting to pass, stared the pride down until finally backing away and taking another path to the watering hole avoiding the many hyena and jackal roaming the area.

Reluctantly departing this array of activity, we found ourselves at a rest stop.  Taking a small break, we walked around the area, enjoying the foliage and eyeing an elephant roaming among the trees.

As usual, our safari vehicle was the last to leave the area, but as we pulled away from the rest stop, my husband noticed movement in another cluster of trees.  An enormous elephant moved out from the brush, exposing the largest set of tusks that we had ever seen.  Estimated by our guide to be about sixty years old, he stayed near the tree line.  As another vehicle pulled up to speak to our driver, we watched the old guy move away from the trees and slowly amble toward us.  His gait was slow and tired but we soon noticed him picking up speed, realizing he was heading right for us!  And…Fahad was not paying attention!  “Fahad!  Fahad!”  We weren’t sure what was going to happen and we all ducked into the vehicle just as the senior mammoth reached us and bumped the back of our 4×4!  As quickly as he came, he ambled away…”his fifth leg” swinging and obviously please with himself.  Pulses beating rapidly, we drove away and allowed him to enjoy the rest of his day while we explored the Lerai Forest, home to the tall, slim yellow barked acacia trees.

The remainder of the day was filled with monkeys, zebras, wildebeests, ostriches, gazelles and a fun pair of warthogs, covered in mud and hellbent on using a rock to give themselves a good scratching!

The day was drawing to a close and as we traveled toward home, one more thing presented itself to us.  A lion relaxed on one of the small culvert walls adjacent to the road.  So close was he to our vehicle that I could have reached out and given him a pat.  Now, I would have had a great story to tell, I’m sure, but probably would have left an appendage or two behind.

As we drove out of Ngorongoro Crater, it was hard to believe the spectacles we had witnessed.  I had  thought it would be hard to beat the Serengeti, but the crater had offered up its own predators, beasts and fowl.  Cruising the crater floor was truly one of the most amazing parts of our safari thus far.  Though we were saying goodbye at this point, we headed back to our lodge, knowing we would say our final goodbyes looking out over the crater.  The famous Ngorongoro sunset would be our ultimate adieu.

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Ngorongoro Crater

  • http://www.ngorongorocrater.org/
  • Gates and barriers open at 0600  and close at 1800, except for the Seneto Descent Gate, which close at 1600 hours.
  • ALL VISITORS TO NGORONGORO CRATER MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A LICENSED GUIDE.
  • Keep to authorized roads and tracks. No off-road driving.
  • Speed limits 25km/hour
  • Only vehicles equipped with standard safaris equipment allowed in the Crater (heavy-duty jack; chain/rope; shovel/hoe; axe/panga)
  • No more than 5 vehicles around an animal or kill

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ngorongoro Crater

The Jumping Nomads

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The Maasai.

This tribe has fascinated me for years, from the first time I saw their jumping tribesmen on a documentary highlighting the nomadic people.  I loved the action, the singing and their colorful clothing.

As I scoured the itinerary for our safari, the first thing that stood out was the visit to a Maasai village.  Yes, I was excited to see the beautiful scenery and the animals, but I was most excited to see the Maasai!

Having driven to Arusha from Nairobi, I had already spotted many Maasai along the way, walking along the roads and tending their cattle.  I had also spotted many Maasai villages dotting the landscape while flying to the Serengeti.  I was giddy with excitement, however, as we pulled off of the roadway and parked under an acacia tree in front of a village on the way from the Serengeti to Olduvai Gorge.

Many villagers, dressed in their colorful Shúkà, emerged from the entryway of their compound and lined up while one of the village elders, Lalashe, came over to greet and welcome us to the village.

While we waited for the others in our party to arrive, we mingled with the women as they decorated us with their beautiful, beaded collars.  They sang songs and smiled at us while the men, practiced their dance moves.  Soon, the others safari vehicles pulled under the acacia tree and our friends joined us for the show.

The Maasai women began to sing harmonies while one of them, the song leader, or olaranyani, sang the melody.  As she began by singing a line or title (namba) of the song, the group responded with a call of acknowlegement.  The olaranyani then sang a verse over the group’s rhythmic throat singing.  The women moved their necks…tilting their head back for an inward breath and then breathing out when their head was leaned forward.

While the women provided the music, one of the men used the Greater Kudu, or horn and the other men formed lines, moving together and chanting rhythmically, “Oooooh-yah” with a growl and staccato cough.  They thrust and withdrew their bodies, some jumping.

As their performance came to a close, we were invited into their compound and gathered under a large tree in the center.  The men continued to chant while jumping extremely high in what seemed to be a competition among them.

Eventually, we were gathered around two of the male villagers who proceeded to demonstrate how the Maasai make fire.  With a bit of a breeze, conditions weren’t right and they were unsuccessful after two lengthy attempts.  Clapping for their efforts, we then moved on to other parts of their village.

The schoolhouse was nearby and as we glanced into the small hut, the young children sang a song for us, recited their ABC’s and we inspected their lessons written on their chalkboard.  Handing over the small gifts we had brought (pens, pencils and paper) to the schoolmaster, we were thanked profusely by everyone.

The king’s son, then divided us into groups and assigned us to one of the male villagers whose job was to escort us around the village and show us how they lived.  As my group entered the small mud huts, we were greeted by darkness.  Our eyes adjusted and we noticed a small cooking area in the center and two raised sleeping pallets at the rear of the hut.  We were informed that the building of the huts are the women’s responsibility and they assist each other with the task, each hut taking about four days to build.  When the king’s son, who had led us around, was asked if he lived with all of his wives and families in one hut, we were greeted with a laugh and a funny response, “Oh, no, each of my wives have their own hut.  Women fight too much!”

Exiting the huts, we saw many women and children who had not performed during our arrival, peeking out curiously at us.  Shyly, they remained in the doorways of their huts where they could dart back in if a camera was raised.

One thing we noticed about those who were present in the village was that there were no young boys or teens.  Boys who have reached puberty participate in a rite of passage, an emorata…a circumcision ceremony performed without anesthetic, believing the pain with lead them into manhood.  The newly circumcised young men then live in another village built by their mothers (a manyatta) which has no barricade for protection, since they are now warriors and can protect themselves.  These newly minted warriors spend much of their time on walkabouts throughout the Maasai lands and can be recognized by their elaborate white face paint.  Before arriving at the village, we had spotted what we thought was a newly circumcised boy, but in actuality, it was some younger boys playing a joke on unsuspecting tourists.  They had plastered some white tape on their foreheads!  Later, however, we did see some “authentic” newly circumcised boys walking along the roadway.

Our leaders escorted us around the center of the village where tables had been set up showcasing a wide variety of crafts available for purchase.  As we walked around and selected objects of interest, we tried to keep in mind the instructions given to us by our guides about negotiations.  “Start by offering half of the price they give”.  Usually a great negotiator in African markets, I was again a bit off of my game and let my emotions get in the way of my common sense, ending up paying a bit more than I probably should have.

Walking away with a mask and a statue, I know that we had made an impact on the villager’s day to day life.  Learning to survive in the modern world, the villagers use the money they earn from their craft sales and the admission charged per safari vehicle to pay for things we take for granted like water.  Instead of walking miles to the nearest watering hole, the modern day Maasai can have water delivered!

It was then time to say goodbye.  We reluctantly handed back our colorful collars that the women had lent to us at the beginning of our visit and made our way back to our safari vehicles.  Many of the villagers came out and as we drove away, they all stood proudly, a colorful mark on a barren land, waving goodbye!

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Maasai Village

  • http://maasaiwilderness.org/maasai/
  • There are many Maasai villages in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.  If you are with a tour company, the villages are visited on a rotating basis.  A recent change necessitates a $50 per vehicle

 

 

A Bird’s Eye View

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Not many places will compare with the Serengeti’s beauty.

Though Naabi Hill is in the Serengeti and not really a destination in itself, all visitors to the Serengeti may at some point pass through Naabi as it is one of the main gates into the Serengeti.  All guides must stop here and check in and out, a time consuming process.

Located south of the busy Seronera area, Naabi Hill is a landmark by which one can estimate distances and locations in the area since it is an extremely high point on the plain and is central to the annual great migration.

Though we were not present for the great migration when the landscape may be dotted black from the large numbers of wildebeest, the views of the Serengeti from the top were awe inspiring!  After the climb to the top, on the moderate trail, we were able to gaze out over the short, grassy plains while standing under the acacia trees which cover the summit.  Since we had not booked the balloon safari, it was great to see from a different perspective what we had seen from the ground during the past few days.

The two square mile area is home to giraffes, elephants, antelope, lion, cheetah, vervet monkeys, wildebeest and zebras. There were also many small Agama lizards along the trail and a it is a great place for bird watching with many colorful starling and maribou storks soaring overhead.

After your descent, it may be wise to utilize the facilities available…coffee shop, toilets and even a small grocery store, where you can purchase souvenirs, sodas, snacks and even a “little nip” for the ride!  There are plenty of tables and benches to rest and enjoy lunch.

For those wanting to stay in the area, there are a few lodges and camps;  Sametu Camp for only 14 guests with a front row to superb, up-front, big cat viewing and roaring, nighttime bonfires.  Serengeti Serena Lodge’s thatched, rondavel huts and manicured grounds.  Four Seasons Lodge’s oasis of luxury with its infinity swimming hole overlooking a frequented watering hole and Private Mobile Camps with wildlife a few feet from its spacious tents.

Although our stop in Naabi was a short one, while we were checked out of the Serengeti,  it was a nice place to stretch our legs and enjoy the sunny morning. It was also the perfect place to enjoy one last look out over the Serengeti on our way to Ngorongoro Crater.

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The Endless Plains

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The Seregeti.

Covering almost 30,000 square kilometers with its location in northern Tanzania and Kenya, the Serengeti’s wildlife and scenery is beyond anything imaginable. As far as the eye can see, the Serengeti spreads out…offering nature’s magnificence….the endless plains.

Disembarking from our aircraft, we stepped into the bright sunshine and were greeted by our safari guide, Fahad.  This was the person that we would come to rely on for the next week as our driver, our guide, our teacher and more importantly, our friend.  As he accompanied us to the front of the small terminal, our baggage was loaded and we were introduced to our safari vehicle, Mathilda.

Into Mathilda we climbed, the five of us taking one of the six seats in the back.  The roof was raised and we were on our way, scanning the horizon and observing the Thompson’s gazelles that grazed just across the road.  This was it!  Our first sighting on the Serengeti!  So, they weren’t one of the Big Five…but it was just the beginning!

Turning left onto one of the many roads that criss-crossed the park,  we bumped along, spotting other vehicles in the distance.  As we slowed, we noticed movement near a patch of acacia trees…a herd of elephants!  Slowly they ambled along, two youngsters with four older females.  We watched them slowly until continuing further down the road.  Here, we encountered another herd, and this one came extremely close to Mathilda!

What a start!

During the next few hours, we encountered warthogs, giraffes, lions, cape buffalo, monkeys, and hippos!  We even spotted a cheetah holding court on a termite hill and a leopard resting on a large branch as well as countless birds flitting about and resting in the brush.

By the time we had reached the Serengeti Sopa Lodge, we had already spotted FOUR of the Big Five!

After checking into our accommodations, we enjoyed a delicious lunch and a small amount of time to unpack and freshen up.   Four o’clock rolled around and it was time for our evening game drive.  Not having to venture extremely far from our lodge, we saw many more of the same animals as earlier, however, the highlight of the late afternoon was finally seeing a large dazzle of zebra!

The next two days were filled with game drives beginning early in the day.  We spotted hyena, dik dik, baboons, ostriches, hartebeests, secretary birds, guinea fowl, impala and many other elephants, giraffes, cape buffalo, cheetahs, zebras, and lions.  In fact, the Serengeti should be named the land of the lion…they are quite plentiful and we were excited to spot them on many occasions.

The Serengeti is not all about wildlife viewing, though, that is what most people come for.  There are some other places of interest in the park which help to break up the day and give everyone some time to stretch their legs and enjoy a respite from the bumpy roads.

The Serengeti Visitor’s Center, located in the heart of the Serengeti, is set in alluring natural rock formations (Kopjes).  A guided or self-guided walk offers a wide range of up-to-date information on the Serengeti ecosystem.  The beautiful trail is lined with exhibits on the Serengeti’s history, ecology, people and conservation and hundreds of rock hyrax resting on the walls.

The Michael Grzimek Memorial Rhino Post is a ranger post in the Moru Kopjes.  It’s conservation project has a goal to protect and monitor the remaining Serengeti black rhinos, provide sound biological management to its population and to secure the Moru area for the introduction of additional rhinos.  While the Serengeti was once home to approximately 1000 black rhinos, poaching reduced the population dramatically.  The Rhino Post, named after Michael Grzimek, who fought to protect the rhino, offers a small hut detailing information on its conservation efforts.

Another interesting stop is at the sound rocks of the Moru Kopjes.  Here you can hike to the top of a rock mass where several ancient boulders produce mellow notes when tapped with smaller stones.  Whether once used as instruments or a method of communication, it is now a interesting stop for visitors…and the views aren’t so bad either!

Some of the most memorable moments of our time in the Serengeti were watching a coalition of cheetah relaxing under a tree, a large male lion lounging near the roadway and who later joined his black maned brother in a search for their next meal, being charged by an enormous, tusked elephant, lunch in the middle of the Serengeti under a sausage tree and beautiful African sunsets.

Trying to explain to our family what we were seeing every day was extremely difficult.  So surreal were our experiences, we were giddy with excitement even when exhausted from the long days.  Absorbing all of the information that Fahad gave us was sometimes overwhelming, but always impressive…that man knew something about everything!  Driving along, he never failed to miss things even far out in the distance!

The most memorable times, however, were when Fahad received a call on his radio and began to drive extremely fast.  We knew that something good was in store!

Nicknaming him “Fishtail Freddy”, we joked that Fahad was on a mission…sometimes a “mission impossible”.  After downloading the Mission Impossible theme song, we would play it for him to inspire him and assist his driving skills!  On our last day, shortly after the charging elephant, Fahad picked up the radio, listened and began to drive quickly.  Turning on our theme song, it was just finishing as we pulled up to five other safari vehicles lining the side of the road.  Here, we found out what the fast driving and fishtailing had brought us to.

In the distance, there was not one…but two black rhino!  The last of our Big Five!

We often joked that our wonderful Fahad, many times over, gave us Serengeti ice cream, Serengeti sauce, Serengeti nuts and, often, Serengeti whipped cream…now he had given us the Serengeti cherry!

What a way to end our time in the Endless Plains!

 

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Serengeti

Safari Express

Ranger Safaris

  • http://www.rangersafaris.com/