Sawa Sawa

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

As we drove out of Tarangire National Park, one thing repeated itself over and over in my head.

“Sawa Sawa”.

A year ago, I didn’t know what the Swahili phrase meant.  Now, if I am completing something, I hear Fahad’s throaty voice asking, “Sawa Sawa?”

Whenever we were out in one of the parks and we were ready to move on, Fahad would always ask in Swahili, “Sawa Sawa?”  Though technically translated to English, it means “equal”, it also is means, “fine”, “all good” and “no worries” and what Fahad was asking was if we were ready to go.

Though we were not ready to move on, it was time for our adventure to end and time to return to Arusha, Nairobi and then home.

Driving through the park, heading to the exit, in order to make our way back to Arusha, we looked out at the elephants and giraffes, the baobab trees and the amazing landscapes that we had admired over the past week.

I definitely was not going miss the bumpy roads or the tsetse flies, but I would miss the beauty of each day, the animals, the scrumptious cuisine, our quaint lodges, local beer, our new friends, Mathilda (our 4×4),  and, of course, Fahad.

I was going to miss Tanzania.

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The Final Resting Place

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

When you think about Africa, you usually think about extremely warm temperatures.  Although the weather in the Serengeti was on the warmer side, we found residing at 2,000 feet above the crater floor at Ngorongoro to be quite chilly.  We hadn’t pulled out our swimsuits…yet…and after all of our travels, we were ready for some fun in the sun!

Driving through Tarangire National Park and coming over a slight rise, 140 kilometers from Arusha, we found ourselves looking down at the Tarangire Sopa Lodge.  As we pulled in to the picturesque property, we were elated to be off of the dusty park roads and were ready for a big lunch!

The always attentive Sopa staff was waiting at the entrance with cool, perfumed towels to wipe away the grime and we were each assigned a porter who escorted us to our circular suites with conical roofs, complete with sitting room, mini-bar, two queen beds, mosquito nets and balconies overlooking the wooded areas adjacent to the lodge.

Heading quickly out to the pool area, where we were instructed that lunch would be waiting, we stared in awe at the lawn where hundreds of rock hyrax lounged in the bright sunshine, munching on grass, leaves and insects.  Not afraid of us, they perched on the short bordering walls next to the pathways and stared up at us curiously while we strolled by.

As we rounded the buildings, an oasis presented itself to us…a large lazy-river-type pool with a bridge leading to a small island in the center!  Wow!  We couldn’t wait to finish lunch, jump in and cool off!

Lunch, a buffet-style affair was the utmost in deliciousness!  Barbecued chicken and sausage, fish, shawarma, rice dishes, salads and fabulous desserts were available for us to enjoy while sitting under thatched umbrellas.  Though we filled our bellies and could have been happy to descend in to a short food coma, we forced ourselves to our rooms, donned our swimsuits and returned to the pool to relax in the sun with our friends and a few beers!  Though the waters were extremely cool, it was nice to enjoy the African afternoon.  This was the life!  Were we only going to be here for two nights?

The lodge, built on different levels is a comfortable respite in Tarangire National Park.  The large, main public area, is filled with carvings, African relics, hand-woven carpets and marble floors.  The lounge, where we convened before dinner that evening, is on an upper level with floor to ceiling windows and an outdoor terrace.  Surrounding the bar, there are televisions with sports broadcasts for those unwilling to miss their favorite games and a pool table for friendly competitions.  Wifi is also available in the main building and large comfortable seating groups and fans provide comfortable resting areas to surf the internet and contact loved ones back home.

Our breakfasts and evening meals were served buffet style in the large, open dining area in the main building and consisted of many types of dishes and fabulous service. My favorite, mandazis (a fried donut), were present at breakfast and I was determined to eat my fill during my final days in Tanzania.

An outdoor terrace ran along one length of the dining room so breakfast could be enjoyed along with the view of the park’s tree-studded, grassy plains and a large outdoor patio offered dinner every other night beneath a star filled sky.  Inside the dining room, an intricately painted mural at one end of the room is not to be missed as well as the exotic flooring with its multi-colored timbers and copper nails.

As with both of our mealtimes during the midday, lunch is always served, weather permitting, beside the pool.  During the rainy season (April-May), the dry river bed fills up and offers a sparkling, gurgling backdrop…just watch out for the monkeys who lurk nearby, hoping to sneak a piece of fruit!

As the lodge property is not enclosed in any way, animals are at liberty to come and go as they please and we spotted quite a few gazelle and monkeys from our balconies.  We didn’t realize, however, how many other animals make their way on to the property.  On our first night, while heading back to our room after dinner, we were greeted at the head of the pathway by one of the lodge’s guards.   He informed us that many different animals are spotted on the property during the nighttime hours…even lions!  Indeed, two Cape Buffalo were not far away grazing on the front lawn.  They didn’t glance our way and our guard did not seem very fazed by the situation.  We wondered, however, what would happen if an elephant decided to charge or if a lion decided to have a late night “touristy” snack.  Checking out the guard, we realized that he did not carry a gun or weapon…only a flashlight.  Gosh!  How ever would he defend us?

With its position within the Tarangire National Park, the Tarangire Sopa Lodge is truly what one expects with a safari adventure in Tanzania.  As I closed our mosquito net around us and listened to the night sounds through our screened patio door, it dawned on me that it was our last night in Tanzania.  Our safari adventure was coming to an end and in the morning, we would be making our way back to Arusha.

One more mealtime in the morning…have to make sure I get some mandazis before we leave this amazing place!

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Tarangire Sopa Lodge

Land of the Elephants and Baobabs

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Mating lions.  Lounging cheetahs.  Charging elephants.  Jumping warriors.

These were some of the amazing things we had seen so far on our Tanzanian adventure.  What could Tarangire National Park possibly offer up that would be so different?

Turning off of Tarangire Road, we soon found ourselves at the Tarangire National Park Visitor’s Center.  The sixth largest national park in Tanzania is located in the Manyara Region and is famous for it high density of elephants and baobab trees.  Though I had seen my fair share of baobab trees in Senegal, it was something new for many in our group.

The Visitor’s Center was a nice place to stretch our legs for a short time while Fahad and our other guides checked us in.  The area was lined with walking paths which we utilized as we made our way to an impressive wooden staircase and viewing platform.  Adjacent to a baobob tree, a species which we had begun to notice growing in the region while on our journey to Tarangire, the platform allowed an up-close and personal look at the “tree of life” as they are also known.  These massive trees reach heights of sixteen to ninety-eight feet and have trunk diameters of twenty-three to thirty-six feet.  The trees are the largest and most important in Africa as their trunk can hold up to 120,000 liters of water and they provide shelter and wood.  For most of the year, the tree is leafless and it appears that it has it roots sticking up in the air, earning it another nickname, “the upside-down tree”, however, when the leaves can be harvested, they are used for making soup and medicine.

Termite mounds were very common in the Serengeti, however, we were never able to exit our vehicles to see them up close.  Here at the Visitor’s Center, we were able to follow one of the paths to see one at arm’s length and we learned that they were plenty throughout the park, many housing armies of dwarf mongooses.

Soon, it was time to move along and begin our game drive while enroute to the Tarangire Sopa Lodge…there would be many baobabs, termite mounds and a wealth of wildlife throughout the two days we would spend here.

Our first impression of Tarangire was a hot and sweaty one.  Much more arid and dry than the other two parks, it was also sweltering and teeming with tsetse flies.  The blue and black flags were present throughout the park and although they didn’t cause me much anguish, my travel mates suffered their piercing bites.

Because of the scorching temperatures, the watering holes were where we were headed.  Giraffes and zebras gathered around an oasis of green-tinted water and herds of elephants lined the banks of the Tarangire River, the primary source of fresh water in the Tarangire Ecosystem.

As we sat high on a ridge, overlooking the river valley, we watched as zebras, giraffes and wildebeests joined the elephants, all inhabiting the area harmoniously.

A short drive later, we soon found ourselves at the Tarangire Sopa Lodge our final resting place on our safari.

The next day, with an early start, we found ourselves watching the sun rise above the baobab trees and termite mounds which seemed to greet us at every turn.

There were many other animals, as to be expected, however, throughout the day, we encountered a large number of leopards and cheetahs, some lounging on the trees’ large limbs and some stalking their prey in the high, yellow grass.

At a different part of the river, we watched zebras and wildebeests parading in long lines to bathe and drink, vultures maintaining a sharp eye on the surrounding area and hyenas mud-bathing on the banks.

Throughout the park, male ostriches danced along, bobbing their bright pink necks with females remaining aloof.  At one point, while driving along, we noticed what appeared to be a male ostrich resting in the grass.  Waiting for it to rise, we soon noticed that it was not alone.  Not only had we been fortunate to spy the mating ritual of lions while at Ngorongoro, but now, we were able to witness that of the ostrich!

Other birds were quite plentiful throughout the park, with it being the home to more than 550 species.  Bird enthusiasts converge upon the park with the hopes of spotting the numerous flocks within the trees and within and around the watering holes and we were quite charmed to spot many.

Giraffes were a common sight and our favorite was an old guy who stood right beside the road and our vehicle.  He seemed as mesmerized by us as we were of him and although the lighting was behind him, I was able to capture some funny photos.  Yes, funny…he appears to be smiling at us!

The elephants…Tarangire’s claim to fame…were everywhere.  The largest elephant population in Tanzania has herds of up to 300 even out of the dry season, ensuring sightings throughout the year.  Many baby elephants followed their mothers and we even watched a youngster running and trumpeting to alert his herd that he was left behind.  Teenagers…they are all the same!

As the day drew on and the sun approached the horizon, three of my favorite memories presented themselves.

First, after a call on our radio, Fahad sped along the dusty roads, finally coming to a stop at the base of a large hill.   Here, many 4x4s had gathered around a large, low-limbed tree.  On the branches rested three female lions.  Though it was hard to capture them photographically in the failing afternoon light, it was fascinating to spot them in the tree.  Though we had seen many cheetahs resting in the trees throughout our trip, this was a first for us…and honestly, I don’t think I ever realized that lions climb trees!

Our second encounter was with an imposing herd of wildebeests.  Stretching out as far as we could see, a few approached the road, attempting to cross.  We stopped to watch, hoping to see them make their way in front of us.  After a few timid tries, one (we nicknamed her Helen), was a bit more brazen than the rest.  Stopping to think about the passage, she looked around for a while, finally breaking into a slight run and eventually a full gallop.  The others, watching her carefully, mimicked her actions and began to run across the road.  Soon the massive herd crossed immediately before us, stirring up a huge dust cloud, in a thunderous roar!

Giddy with the excitement of seeing the wildebeests, we made our way towards to the lodge at full speed.  Knowing Fahad only drives quickly when there is something special to see, we wondered what it could be as he had not received any calls on the radio and the sun was heavy on the horizon.  Pulling over to the side of the road, we looked out on the landscape to a massive baobab, filled with vultures and the bright orange sun setting behind it.  I couldn’t have pictured a more fitting end to our day in the land of the elephants and baobabs!

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Tarangire National Park

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tarangire National Park