africa – Snapping The Globe

The Lions Next Door

Having been on safari in Tanzania, I knew that the Bandia Reserve in Senegal, had its shortcomings.

While I absolutely loved visiting and had done so three times, there was the glaring fact that it was missing some of the animals that captivate thrill seekers…the big cats. Because it is a private reserve comprising just over 8600 acres and is surrounded by fencing, the animals that do reside there…giraffes, deer, ostrich…would be sitting ducks. There are a few hyenas that reside in the front of the park, however, they are in their own enclosure and not free to roam.

On my last visit to Bandia Reserve, I did learn something…Ranch de Bandia, a lodge which offers lion experiences, had opened recently adjacent to the reserve. Offering up close interactions with lions, it was meant to fill the gap where The Bandia Reserve was lacking while still offering a Safari experience with big cats and a place for visitors to call home while surrounded by African wildlife.

Located only 70 kilometers from Dakar (45 minutes), it is an easy drive from the city and also located near the resort town of Saly, a popular tourist destination. Since we were staying near the downtown area, we decided to do both activities (Bandia Reserve and Ranch de Bandia) in order to make the most of our time and the drive.

Arriving in the late morning to Bandia, we quickly realized that early arrivals and late afternoons are probably best for animal spotting. The midday hour is when most animals are inactive due to the heat and it was on this trip when I saw the least amount of wildlife. We still managed to see enough to make our trip worthwhile, however, the park’s rhinos remained elusive on this trip.

*Hyenas in their enclosure at the front of the park*

*Many kinds of deer and elk reside in the park*

After our safari at Bandia was complete, we headed back thru the entrance gates and over to Ranch de Bandia, across the highway.

Preparations had already been made by our tour guide, Mass Kane, so we were all set to take off on our 30 minutes of exploration into the lions’ territory.

Loading up into the park’s specially equipped vehicles, we noticed pieces of meat still sitting on top of the truck’s iron mesh that enclosed it. Flies were everywhere, attracted by the smell and the bloody mess, but if this was the way to attract the lions, we had to get used to it.

Entering the gates of the enclosure, we could hear the roars of an angry cat in the distance; Malik, a territorial lion protesting our arrival. Moving through the second set of gates, the sound of his roars became much louder and as we turned onto a small roadway, we spotted him behind a bush in a clearing. Realizing that he would soon partake of a meal, he came forward, jumping onto the hood of our vehicle and then climbing onto the roof. It was an amazing experience to have such ferocious, yet beautiful creature that close to us. As he shifted closer to the back of the truck above where I was seated, I could smell his musky scent and feel the mud from his paws falling down into my hair. All in the experience, right? I was definitely going to need a shower when I got home!

Moving back to the front of the truck, he interacted with the driver and guide who, through an opening in the front mesh, doled out his afternoon snack. Finally, growing tired of us, he jumped off and headed back into the trees, seeking shelter from the afternoon’s heat.

Starting up our truck, we drove through and then exited the enclosure into another area. A small bit of travel ensued before we finally spotted the first of two female lions. One, named Savannah, stood under a tree watching us warily before approaching, yet still maintaining a bit of distance. We drove along the road with her staying nearby until we came across her mate, Madibah, a proud male. Promptly, Madibah jumped into the hood and waited for his treat, while Savannah waited patiently nearby. After he was satisfied, he climbed onto our roof and Savannah took her turn, giving us some great photo opportunities with the assistance of our guide.

While I don’t recommend it, we did get some pretty decent shots of Madibah by holding our phone’s camera through an opening at the top of the vehicle. After trying it once, (seeing another friend successfully photograph Madibah this way), I was roared at, causing me to quickly pull my phone inside. On a trip a week later, another friend had Madibah grab her phone from her, biting it and hurling it from the vehicle onto the muddy road.

I wonder if Apple Care covers that!

Our thirty minute adventure soon came to a close and we headed back to where we had started.

What I did learn later, however, is that in addition to the adult lion encounter, Ranch de Bandia also offers a baby lion encounter. This was not an option offered to us nor to any of my friends who visited near that time, leaving me to wonder if it is something that has been added recently or if there were no baby lions at that time.

A visit to both parks is something special for visitors to Senegal. An opportunity to see many animals in a protected reserve is unique to the area and should not be missed! And if you travel with my friend and tour guide, a great dinner on the beach in nearby Saly can wrap up your day’s adventures!!

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Ranch de Bandia

Lion cub activity, 1000-1530, daily, 15 minutes. 25,000CFA per person. 18 years and over only. Mandatory dress required: trousers and closed shoes.
Lion Safari, 0900-1630, daily, 30 minutes. Children ages, 3-10 years, 10,000CFA per person. Adults, 20,000CFA per person.
Compulsory vehicle rental for the safari, 20,000 CFA for a maximum capacity of 7 people.

The Motherland Experience

http://themotherlandexperiencetraveltours.com
Telephone: +221 77 295 24 24
Owner: Mass Kane
Email: Kanemass@hotmail.com

Rediscovering Accra

There is nowhere like Africa.

The smells, the sights, the people!

I had missed being in Accra and was excited to show my friend around on her first sojourn. Once we had visited Black Star Square, a new locale for me, it was time to reacquaint with some “oldies but goodies” and see what else we might discover in the process.

When you walk around the city, you never know what you might encounter…fighting cows, someone’s laundry on a city bench or wall, someone sleeping under a tree, countless vendors hawking their goods. It is always a surprise and usually quite entertaining.

Dodging the hazards of the crumbling sidewalk, we ventured back along 28 September Road towards the Accra Arts Market. Speaking of not knowing what you might find or walk away with, this is the place. I was in search of face masks made of kente cloth and I knew exactly where to look, however, it is quite difficult engaging with the locals who invite you into their booths and remind you that it’s always “free to look”. Although I have countless masks and other oddities from my previous visits, I steeled myself to say no, however, my friend, on her first visit, couldn’t and walked away with a small table!

Purchases aside, we were able to reconnect with my old friend David, a drum maker who works in the market, share a soda and some great gossip!

Since the Kwame Nkrumah monument was a short distance away, I decided that we should stop in for a visit. Although I had been there before, it was nice to see it once again, even if the fountains were all drained and the property a bit unkempt. One of the most interesting things I discovered was in the museum at the back of the property. I had just finished watching the Netflix series, “The Crown” and remembered the episode when Queen Elizabeth danced with President Nkrumah at a ball in Accra in 1961. Right there on the wall was a photo depicting that particular event!

Leaving the property, I suddenly realized a major mistake we made upon our arrival. I really am out of practice… Never tell some of the locals your name unless you want a personalized ornament, shell, bracelet…the possibilities are endless. I understand that they are desperately trying to make a living, but once they had our name (in our case) they made bracelets for each of us with our monikers woven into it and wanted to sell it to us. Sadly, I didn’t have enough money for their asking price (which was quite high) and I felt bad for the amount of time spent making it, so…we came to an agreement of a purchase with a discount.

Continuing on, our next stop was the Holy Trinity Cathedral. This beautiful, stone church was completed in 1894 and was funded by the colonial British government. Fifteen years after its completion, it was deemed a cathedral by the Diocese of Accra.

Having lain my eyes upon many a cathedral in the world, I would say that this one was in no way equal, however, mass was just finishing and the priest warmly welcomed us inside and told us to make ourselves at home. The design was quite interesting with a dark, barrel-vaulted ceiling, a stone-walled interior and red velvet-covered pews, but it was stark in contrast to some of the Italian, Central and South American gilded temples I have set foot in. Nonetheless, it was nice to see the interior and even speak with some of the parishioners who were still gathered outside.

Heading into the Jamestown area, I was hoping that we could tour the Ussher Fort, one of the three forts that Europeans built in the region during the middle of the 17th century. This fort was built by the Dutch and was completed in 1649 and I suspected that we would be able to get some interesting photos in the bright, sunny day. Blaming incorrect internet information, we found the place to be closed, but were still able to sneak a peek at the interior through the barred doorways. Definitely another place for one of my future trips.

After stopping for a cold drink at the colorful Jamestown Cafe, we cut through the area that houses the Makola market. Having seen the market in operation during its peak operations during the week, we found the streets to be relatively deserted…Sundays are really a day of rest for many Ghanaians. A little further, after passing the monument to King Tackie Tawiah, (king of Accra from 1862-1902), we ended up on Independence Avenue with its countless vendors and local market. While Makola was quiet, we found a flurry of activity while hastening our own travels back to our hotel.

Hobbling back to my room, I suddenly realized how much ground we had covered that day. My friend was thrilled to have seen so many interesting sights and met so many interesting people. Me? I was just happy to rediscover one of my favorite African cities!

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Accra Arts Centre

Address: Prof. John Evans Atta Mills High Street, Accra Ghana
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: free

Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park and Museum

Address: Prof. John Evans Atta Mills High Street, Accra Ghana
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: 5 cedi (about .83 US)

Holy Trinity Cathedral

Address: High Street, Accra Ghana
Hours: Unknown
Mass Schedule: Unknown
Admission: free

Ussher Fort

https://www.ghanamuseums.org/ussher-fort-museum.php
Address: 33 Prof. Atta Mills High St, Accra, Ghana
Hours: Unknown
Admission: Pupils from Primary to JHS 3, GH¢ 0.20 (about .04 US), SHS Students, GH¢ 0.50 (about .08 US), Tertiary Students with ID, GH¢ 1.00 (about .16 US), Ghanaian Adults, GH¢ 2.00 (about .33 US), Foreign Children, GH¢ 2.00 (about .33 US), Foreign Students with ID, GH¢ 5.00 (about .83 US), Adult Foreigners, GH¢ 10.00 (about $1.66 US)

Makola Market

Address: Kojo Thompson Rd, Accra, GH
Hours: 0800-1800, daily
Admission: free

Seeking the Star

A year is a long way to be away from the things you love.

My job, my friends and yes, Africa!

Africa is absolutely one of my favorite places to travel to. I had not been to Ghana in a year and a half, so when I learned that I had a trip during my first month back to work, I was extremely excited!

Having spent so much time there in the past, I feel as though I know the city like the back of my hand. While looking through a map of the city, however, I realized that there are some things I had never seen except from maybe a cab window.

Rising bright and early in the morning, I had breakfast and then set out with a friend to investigate one of Ghana’s major landmarks…Black Star Square.

The public square, also known as Independence Square, hosts the city’s annual celebrations and other national events, including civic and military parades.

Completed in 1961, by prime minister and President Kwame Nkrumah, to celebrate Ghana’s independence from the British, the square boasts stands to accommodate 30,000 people, the Independence Arch, the Liberation Day Monument and the Black Star Monument, also known as the Black Star Gate.

We made our way down 28 February Road approaching the square, spotting closed gates. These gates were low enough to step over, however, and noting other people in the square, we decided to join them.

Immediately to our left, we noticed one of the highlights, the statue of a soldier, facing the Independence Arch, which symbolizes the Ghanaians who lost their lives fighting for their country’s independence.

We then walked around the parade grounds, passing by and then under the Independence Arch and the stands reserved for the notables where we were stopped by a security guard. Though we were trying to take a look at the view of the ocean beyond the square, I guess we found out that this part was off limits. The square, however, is massive with lots of other ground to cover and it would be a sight to behold to attend one of the country’s celebratory gatherings, especially the Independence Day parade which is held March 6th every year.

Moving on, we made our way across 28 February Road to the Black Star Gate. As we approached, I noticed two gentlemen under the gate stand and one begin to approach. I steeled myself for a scam, however, he was very friendly and asked us if we wanted to climb to the top. The small admittance fee allowed our entry and he would accompany us to answer any questions we might have.

Climbing the inner staircase to the top, he chatted amicably and gave us a history of the square.

Standing on the pinnacle, we had an amazing view of the entire square, the nearby Accra Sports Stadium, the coast and parts of the city. The best part, however, was when our guide, Abraham, positioned us under the huge black star and photographed us with the appearance of holding it in our hands!

We chatted a bit, took some pictures together and then headed down for views of the arch from below.

There was a great deal of visitors while we were there and I silently wondered why I had never made it here before with it being so close to my hotel and many other attractions I had visited before! Now I can mark it off the list, with the intent of possibly returning on March 6…that’s something I want to see!

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Black Star Square

Address: 28th February Roundabout, Accra, Ghana
Hours: 0600-1800, daily
Admission: free. Climb to top of Black Star Gate, 5 Ghanaian Cedi (about .83 US)

Long Haul Lagos

“I would never go out without an armed guard.”

Years ago, I visited Nigeria’s capital city, Abuja. My stay was short and we never saw much of the city aside from the ride to and from the airport. This time, I was headed back to Nigeria and gifted with time…about seventy-eight hours…to enjoy the country’s coastal city.

As I expressed an interest to see what Lagos, Nigeria had to offer, I was met with much opposition, even the quote above. Still, I had done some research and though there were some negative reviews, there was not enough to deter my curiosity.

Hiring a driver and enlisting the company of a few co-workers, we set out early in the morning, hoping to get a jump-start on the the traffic that reportedly torments the city. It’s a long haul to Lagos from New York and apparently, it can sometimes take almost as many hours to fight the congestion that clogs the cities highways and roads. Handing the driver a list of things that we thought would be interesting, we left it in his capable hands to figure out an itinerary which would allow us to see as much as possible.

As we made our way through the congested streets, we finally found our way to the Third Mainland Bridge which connects the mainland to Lagos Island. Our driver slowed so that we could get a glimpse of the Makoko floating fishing village on the right. Definitely not a place tourists would venture, it looks serene with its brightly colored buildings and fishing boats bobbing in the gentle surf.

Founded as a fishing village in the 19th century, many residents still practice the trade, however, throughout the six different villages that comprise Makoko (Oko Agbon, Adogbo, Migbewhe, Yanshiwhe, Sogunro and Apollo), its many thousand residents (estimates range from 40,000 to 300,000) resort to various enterprises, some extremely dangerous or illegal, to survive. Hiring a boat to cruise its crowded. sludge-filled waterways is not advised as residents view outsiders with a wary eye.

Since closer inspection was out of the question, we continued on, passing through Lagos Island and onto the southernmost Victoria Island.

Our first stop was the Yellow Chille, a local restaurant highly recommended to us for its legendary Seafood Okra Soup. While I didn’t sample their spicy, fare my companions said it was delicious. The service was slow, however, and we had to push them to get a bill that was very different from our calculation of the prices in the menu. Ever hear, “TIA”? Yes, “this is Africa”. Sometimes, sadly, this is what you get.

Rounding up our driver, we headed to the Lekki Market (also known as the Oba Elegushi International Market or Jakande Art Market), anxious to find some special Nigerian handicrafts. Having been to many markets in Africa, I was pleasantly surprised to find a wide array of crafts beyond the usual fare. More than that, the people were quite welcoming and didn’t push for you to enter their establishments. A simple, “no thank you“, sufficed and you could move on, looking for whatever else captivated your interest. Our driver accompanied us through the market, insisting that he could assist in better bargaining, however, I think I did much better without his help, getting three, better quality items than he procured for another person. Still, in all, it was an enjoyable time, though short, and we managed to walk away with some nice pieces.

A quick drive down the highway led us to the Lekki Conservation Center. Despite my research on the Lagos area, I somehow had not stumbled upon this property, however, one of my companions knew of it and our driver enthusiastically agreed that we should visit.

The Lekki Conservation center encompasses 190 acres and was established in 1990 to serve as a biodiversity conservation and environmental education center. An amazing urban park, designed to satisfy one’s curiosity of nature, it is the only protected area in Lagos state and a place to observe many species of Nigeria’s wildlife.

After admiring a couple of monkeys begging for a handout, we paid our admission and joined a group that began to traverse the boardwalk leading into the trees. Our guide pointed out items of interest and described the many reptiles and mammals that reside in this protected area. Monkeys swung through the trees and followed us on the walkways, hoping to steal a treat or something else they deemed of value from the trespassers in their swamp.

We soon encountered what the Lekki Conservation Center is most known for, its 401 meter long canopy walkway, reportedly the longest canopy walkway in Africa. Having walked along the highest canopy walkway in Ghana, I knew we were in for an amazing treat.

I soon learned that much more was involved with this walkway. Whereas, Ghana’s walkways were mainly made of rope and wood, this one is an engineering feat…more of a series of suspended bridges constructed of steel that clash with the bright green landscape. With entry and exit portals connecting six towers, it is quite exhilarating to creep along the shaky walkways while investigating the various vegetation and wildlife residing in the treetops.

After our descent, we continued through the park stopping for a rest in the picnic area, enjoying fresh coconut water while seated in one of the thatched roof huts. Checking the time, we realized that we would have to get back on the road to try and beat the traffic back to our hotel. Heading back into the swamp, we made our way along the boardwalk with a quick stop to climb the park’s treehouse.

Our driver was ready to hit the highway when we emerged from the treeline and even though we had been conscientious of the time, we got to…slowly…experience some of Lagos’ bumper to bumper traffic!

So, did I feel like I got to see what Lagos had to offer?

Absolutely!

Did I need an armed guard?

Absolutely not!

Everyone we encountered in the city was gracious and friendly and never did I feel as though my life was in peril. Being a well-seasoned traveler, I used my experience and good judgement to guide us in selecting what to see and do.

So, if you find yourself in Lagos…absolutely go check it out! It’s an amazing, vibrant city filled with nature, culture and good food!

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The Yellow Chille

http://yellowchilling.com/
Address: 27 Oju Olobun Cl, Victoria Island, Lagos, Nigeria
Hours: Sunday to Thursday, 1100-2200, Friday and Saturday 1100-2300.

Lekki Market

Address: Elegushi Modern Plaza, Nigeria
Hours: 0800-1800, daily

Lekki Conservation Center

http://www.ncfnigeria.org/
Address: 19 Lekki – Epe Expy, Lekki Penninsula II, Lekki, Nigeria
Hours: 0830-1700, daily
Admission: Adults, 1000 NGN (about $2.77 US), Children ages 11-17, 300 NGN (about $.83 US), Children ages 1-10, 200 NGN (about $.55 US)

Sawa Sawa

As we drove out of Tarangire National Park, one thing repeated itself over and over in my head.

“Sawa Sawa”.

A year ago, I didn’t know what the Swahili phrase meant. Now, if I am completing something, I hear Fahad’s throaty voice asking, “Sawa Sawa?”

Whenever we were out in one of the parks and we were ready to move on, Fahad would always ask in Swahili, “Sawa Sawa?” Though technically translated to English, it means “equal”, it also is means, “fine”, “all good” and “no worries” and what Fahad was asking was if we were ready to go.

Though we were not ready to move on, it was time for our adventure to end and time to return to Arusha, Nairobi and then home.

Driving through the park, heading to the exit, in order to make our way back to Arusha, we looked out at the elephants and giraffes, the baobab trees and the amazing landscapes that we had admired over the past week.

I definitely was not going miss the bumpy roads or the tsetse flies, but I would miss the beauty of each day, the animals, the scrumptious cuisine, our quaint lodges, local beer, our new friends, Mathilda (our 4×4), and, of course, Fahad.

I was going to miss Tanzania.

Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

The Final Resting Place

When you think about Africa, you usually think about extremely warm temperatures. Although the weather in the Serengeti was on the warmer side, we found residing at 2,000 feet above the crater floor at Ngorongoro to be quite chilly. We hadn’t pulled out our swimsuits…yet…and after all of our travels, we were ready for some fun in the sun!

Driving through Tarangire National Park and coming over a slight rise, 140 kilometers from Arusha, we found ourselves looking down at the Tarangire Sopa Lodge. As we pulled in to the picturesque property, we were elated to be off of the dusty park roads and were ready for a big lunch!

The always attentive Sopa staff was waiting at the entrance with cool, perfumed towels to wipe away the grime and we were each assigned a porter who escorted us to our circular suites with conical roofs, complete with sitting room, mini-bar, two queen beds, mosquito nets and balconies overlooking the wooded areas adjacent to the lodge.

Heading quickly out to the pool area, where we were instructed that lunch would be waiting, we stared in awe at the lawn where hundreds of rock hyrax lounged in the bright sunshine, munching on grass, leaves and insects. Not afraid of us, they perched on the short bordering walls next to the pathways and stared up at us curiously while we strolled by.

As we rounded the buildings, an oasis presented itself to us…a large lazy-river-type pool with a bridge leading to a small island in the center! Wow! We couldn’t wait to finish lunch, jump in and cool off!

Lunch, a buffet-style affair was the utmost in deliciousness! Barbecued chicken and sausage, fish, shawarma, rice dishes, salads and fabulous desserts were available for us to enjoy while sitting under thatched umbrellas. Though we filled our bellies and could have been happy to descend in to a short food coma, we forced ourselves to our rooms, donned our swimsuits and returned to the pool to relax in the sun with our friends and a few beers! Though the waters were extremely cool, it was nice to enjoy the African afternoon. This was the life! Were we only going to be here for two nights?

The lodge, built on different levels is a comfortable respite in Tarangire National Park. The large, main public area, is filled with carvings, African relics, hand-woven carpets and marble floors. The lounge, where we convened before dinner that evening, is on an upper level with floor to ceiling windows and an outdoor terrace. Surrounding the bar, there are televisions with sports broadcasts for those unwilling to miss their favorite games and a pool table for friendly competitions. Wifi is also available in the main building and large comfortable seating groups and fans provide comfortable resting areas to surf the internet and contact loved ones back home.

Our breakfasts and evening meals were served buffet style in the large, open dining area in the main building and consisted of many types of dishes and fabulous service. My favorite, mandazis (a fried donut), were present at breakfast and I was determined to eat my fill during my final days in Tanzania.

An outdoor terrace ran along one length of the dining room so breakfast could be enjoyed along with the view of the park’s tree-studded, grassy plains and a large outdoor patio offered dinner every other night beneath a star filled sky. Inside the dining room, an intricately painted mural at one end of the room is not to be missed as well as the exotic flooring with its multi-colored timbers and copper nails.

As with both of our mealtimes during the midday, lunch is always served, weather permitting, beside the pool. During the rainy season (April-May), the dry river bed fills up and offers a sparkling, gurgling backdrop…just watch out for the monkeys who lurk nearby, hoping to sneak a piece of fruit!

As the lodge property is not enclosed in any way, animals are at liberty to come and go as they please and we spotted quite a few gazelle and monkeys from our balconies. We didn’t realize, however, how many other animals make their way on to the property. On our first night, while heading back to our room after dinner, we were greeted at the head of the pathway by one of the lodge’s guards. He informed us that many different animals are spotted on the property during the nighttime hours…even lions! Indeed, two Cape Buffalo were not far away grazing on the front lawn. They didn’t glance our way and our guard did not seem very fazed by the situation. We wondered, however, what would happen if an elephant decided to charge or if a lion decided to have a late night “touristy” snack. Checking out the guard, we realized that he did not carry a gun or weapon…only a flashlight. Gosh! How ever would he defend us?

With its position within the Tarangire National Park, the Tarangire Sopa Lodge is truly what one expects with a safari adventure in Tanzania. As I closed our mosquito net around us and listened to the night sounds through our screened patio door, it dawned on me that it was our last night in Tanzania. Our safari adventure was coming to an end and in the morning, we would be making our way back to Arusha.

One more mealtime in the morning…have to make sure I get some mandazis before we leave this amazing place!

Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Tarangire Sopa Lodge

http://www.sopalodges.com/tarangire-sopa-lodge/overview
Address: Tarangire National Park, Manyara Region, Tanzania
Rates: Rates vary by season, Low, High and Peak, Single Suite, Double Suite and Triple Suite and Full Board and Half Board. $170-$867 per night

Land of the Elephants and Baobabs

Mating lions. Lounging cheetahs. Charging elephants. Jumping warriors.

These were some of the amazing things we had seen so far on our Tanzanian adventure. What could Tarangire National Park possibly offer up that would be so different?

Turning off of Tarangire Road, we soon found ourselves at the Tarangire National Park Visitor’s Center. The sixth largest national park in Tanzania is located in the Manyara Region and is famous for it high density of elephants and baobab trees. Though I had seen my fair share of baobab trees in Senegal, it was something new for many in our group.

The Visitor’s Center was a nice place to stretch our legs for a short time while Fahad and our other guides checked us in. The area was lined with walking paths which we utilized as we made our way to an impressive wooden staircase and viewing platform. Adjacent to a baobob tree, a species which we had begun to notice growing in the region while on our journey to Tarangire, the platform allowed an up-close and personal look at the “tree of life” as they are also known. These massive trees reach heights of sixteen to ninety-eight feet and have trunk diameters of twenty-three to thirty-six feet. The trees are the largest and most important in Africa as their trunk can hold up to 120,000 liters of water and they provide shelter and wood. For most of the year, the tree is leafless and it appears that it has it roots sticking up in the air, earning it another nickname, “the upside-down tree”, however, when the leaves can be harvested, they are used for making soup and medicine.

Termite mounds were very common in the Serengeti, however, we were never able to exit our vehicles to see them up close. Here at the Visitor’s Center, we were able to follow one of the paths to see one at arm’s length and we learned that they were plenty throughout the park, many housing armies of dwarf mongooses.

Soon, it was time to move along and begin our game drive while enroute to the Tarangire Sopa Lodge…there would be many baobabs, termite mounds and a wealth of wildlife throughout the two days we would spend here.

Our first impression of Tarangire was a hot and sweaty one. Much more arid and dry than the other two parks, it was also sweltering and teeming with tsetse flies. The blue and black flags were present throughout the park and although they didn’t cause me much anguish, my travel mates suffered their piercing bites.

Because of the scorching temperatures, the watering holes were where we were headed. Giraffes and zebras gathered around an oasis of green-tinted water and herds of elephants lined the banks of the Tarangire River, the primary source of fresh water in the Tarangire Ecosystem.

As we sat high on a ridge, overlooking the river valley, we watched as zebras, giraffes and wildebeests joined the elephants, all inhabiting the area harmoniously.

A short drive later, we soon found ourselves at the Tarangire Sopa Lodge our final resting place on our safari.

The next day, with an early start, we found ourselves watching the sun rise above the baobab trees and termite mounds which seemed to greet us at every turn.

There were many other animals, as to be expected, however, throughout the day, we encountered a large number of leopards and cheetahs, some lounging on the trees’ large limbs and some stalking their prey in the high, yellow grass.

At a different part of the river, we watched zebras and wildebeests parading in long lines to bathe and drink, vultures maintaining a sharp eye on the surrounding area and hyenas mud-bathing on the banks.

Throughout the park, male ostriches danced along, bobbing their bright pink necks with females remaining aloof. At one point, while driving along, we noticed what appeared to be a male ostrich resting in the grass. Waiting for it to rise, we soon noticed that it was not alone. Not only had we been fortunate to spy the mating ritual of lions while at Ngorongoro, but now, we were able to witness that of the ostrich!

Other birds were quite plentiful throughout the park, with it being the home to more than 550 species. Bird enthusiasts converge upon the park with the hopes of spotting the numerous flocks within the trees and within and around the watering holes and we were quite charmed to spot many.

Giraffes were a common sight and our favorite was an old guy who stood right beside the road and our vehicle. He seemed as mesmerized by us as we were of him and although the lighting was behind him, I was able to capture some funny photos. Yes, funny…he appears to be smiling at us!

The elephants…Tarangire’s claim to fame…were everywhere. The largest elephant population in Tanzania has herds of up to 300 even out of the dry season, ensuring sightings throughout the year. Many baby elephants followed their mothers and we even watched a youngster running and trumpeting to alert his herd that he was left behind. Teenagers…they are all the same!

As the day drew on and the sun approached the horizon, three of my favorite memories presented themselves.

First, after a call on our radio, Fahad sped along the dusty roads, finally coming to a stop at the base of a large hill. Here, many 4x4s had gathered around a large, low-limbed tree. On the branches rested three female lions. Though it was hard to capture them photographically in the failing afternoon light, it was fascinating to spot them in the tree. Though we had seen many cheetahs resting in the trees throughout our trip, this was a first for us…and honestly, I don’t think I ever realized that lions climb trees!

Our second encounter was with an imposing herd of wildebeests. Stretching out as far as we could see, a few approached the road, attempting to cross. We stopped to watch, hoping to see them make their way in front of us. After a few timid tries, one (we nicknamed her Helen), was a bit more brazen than the rest. Stopping to think about the passage, she looked around for a while, finally breaking into a slight run and eventually a full gallop. The others, watching her carefully, mimicked her actions and began to run across the road. Soon the massive herd crossed immediately before us, stirring up a huge dust cloud, in a thunderous roar!

Giddy with the excitement of seeing the wildebeests, we made our way towards to the lodge at full speed. Knowing Fahad only drives quickly when there is something special to see, we wondered what it could be as he had not received any calls on the radio and the sun was heavy on the horizon. Pulling over to the side of the road, we looked out on the landscape to a massive baobab, filled with vultures and the bright orange sun setting behind it. I couldn’t have pictured a more fitting end to our day in the land of the elephants and baobabs!

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Tarangire National Park

http://www.tanzaniaparks.go.tz/

Tarangire National Park

http://www.tanzaniaparks.go.tz/

The Trek To Tarangire

Parting is such sweet sorrow…

I have seen some of the most beautiful places in this world. Ngorongoro Crater tops that list! Truly one of the most remarkable environments I have had the privilege to lay my eyes upon, I was definitely despising our departure.

Of course, there was going to be lots of new and exciting things to see in our next destination, Tarangire National Park. However, one must not overlook the journey to get there. Watching the scenery as we navigated the roads and highways would prove to be new and exciting too!

Many vibrant communities lined our route, with countless villagers going about their day to day living. Markets were in full swing and people were waiting alongside the roadways in order to get there.

A couple of hours into our trek, we made a stop at the African Galleria. Once we had utilized their facilities, we took a bit of time to walk around and inspect the amazing artwork. Yes, there were the normal masks, souvenirs and fabrics that you would find in any market, but there was also the most awe-inspiring carvings that I have ever seen. After spotting the most intricate piece of shaped wood, depicting migrating wildebeests, my curiosity got the best of me and I had to inquire about some of the prices.

They were willing to make a deal for me their first customer (okay, I’ve heard that one before).

They would give me a much better deal because it was Sunday (yeah, heard that one too).

They would pack it carefully and ship it via FedEx and it would be waiting for me when I got home.

Any guesses as to the price? Well, let’s just say that I could have booked another safari with what they wanted to charge me.

Not that it wasn’t worth it! It truly was! Both my husband and I agreed that the craftsmanship required to master a piece like that was worth the price. When you have two children in college, however, you have to admire from afar and move along!

Strolling around, we made it to the more affordable part of the galleria and negotiated a fair price for a couple of other pieces. Heading outside to relax with a couple of sodas, we then spotted the King of the Jungle! Naturally, we had to pose for a few pics!

Turning back onto the highway, we traveled for a while until Fahad pulled over from the roadway to a fruit seller’s stand. He said he had a surprise. Well, it was definitely a surprise! Have you ever seen or tasted a red banana? Absolutely delicious!

Enjoying our red bananas, we traveled for a while longer before turning onto Tarangire Road. This intersection was teeming with activity! The Minjingu Market was going strong with villagers from miles around selling their wares and making deals. So colorful and busy, we weren’t sure where to look!

Although Tarangire was only a short drive down the road, we didn’t have time to stop and enjoy the activity.

The elephants were calling!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Minjingu Market

African Galleria

http://africangalleriatz.net/

On the Edge

Located at the highest point on Ngorongoro Crater’s entire rim and offering unsurpassed views of the crater, lies the Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge.

Greeted upon our arrival, once again, with refreshing cool towels and mouthwatering drinks, we received our keys and followed our porters to check out our new accommodations.

The entire resort is themed around traditional circular African houses with conical roofs and our rooms, grouped in sets of four, were no exception.

Walking into our temporary residence, we checked out the entry hall complete with armoire and minibar. The circular room, was very interesting with its brick side tables, headboards, foot boards and vanity. African print bedding graced the berth but no artwork adorned the elliptical walls. Instead, the curtains were drawn, exposing a wall of windows looking out onto the crater and the rain-forests at the rim. Indeed, who needs artwork when you can admire this!

Difficult as it was to tear myself away, we set out to enjoy the beautiful sunset from the luxurious westward facing lounge and pool area before heading to the dramatic dining room with its soaring ceilings.

The service, once again, was incredible and the food a remarkable exhibition of the chef’s amazing talent.

On our second evening, we enjoyed an interesting talk given by a local ranger of the history and diversity of the crater, complete with an interesting slideshow. Our absolute favorite thing about the lodge, however, was the hot water bottles that were placed in our beds each night to help combat the chill! We didn’t have the mosquito netting here at the crater as the temperatures were too chilly, but the hot water bottles were a nice touch!

We loved leaving our windows open to the chilled mountain air, even though we were subject to the sounds of Africa. In fact, being able to hear the outside environment, led to some amazing sightings.

On our first evening, in the waning light, we noticed Cape Buffalo foraging in the brush. A little later, a mountain reedbuck was grazing near our windows. So enthralled by this close-up encounter, I could have passed on dinner and watched this active display. No wonder there was no television and wifi available in our rooms! Also, in the middle of our first night, we were awakened by grunting and discovered zebras scratching their hind quarters on the lodge. The following evening, we were roused by the sound of a heavy movement through the brush. Two large elephant were walking near the top of the rim. It is a wonder that we actually got any sleep!

The encounters weren’t restricted to our rooms, however. One evening, one of the members of our group took us outside to see a large owl resting on the rear patio. Monkeys continued to wander the premises and many guests had to hang on to their belongings to keep the sneaky primates from helping themselves. The most exhilarating (and alarming) encounter, however, was when we were exiting the rear of the lodge and headed back to our rooms. A guard greeted us and informed us that he would be escorting us. The flashing of light and excited voices near the pool caught our attention. A Cape Buffalo was standing near the pool, mere yards from our location!

Though we had visited and departed the crater a few hours before, we hadn’t really left it behind.

Definitely one of the most interesting places we have ever stayed!

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Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge

http://www.sopalodges.com/ngorongoro-sopa-lodge/overview

The Descent

If seeing the Maasai up close and personal was the main thing that I wanted to do on my safari, Ngorongoro Crater was a close second.

So many people look a bit confused when you mention Ngorongoro Crater…it’s something they have probably seen before in pictures, but not something that they have ever given much thought to. Me? I knew exactly what it was and I couldn’t wait to see it!

After leaving Olduvai Gorge, we began the long and winding road up to the rim of the crater. Passing many villages on the way, we also continued to see the occasional giraffe and dust devil in the distance. We relished the giraffe sightings as we know that we would not be seeing any in the crater as their long legs prohibit them from descending and ascending the steep crater walls.

Passing the luxurious (and wildly expensive) Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, we knew we were almost there. Only six lodges sit on the crater rim, offering a bed capacity of only 560 along with sixteen campsites. Realizing how very few people are allowed here every night, it dawned on us what a privilege the journey was that we were about to undertake.

As our 4×4 climbed the steep road, we breathed a sigh of relief when we finally pulled into a parking area on the side of the road. This was it…our first view of Ngorongoro Crater!

Standing on the viewing platform, we gazed out on the crater’s unadulterated beauty. Far below us, we could distinguish the magnificent savannah plains, highlands and forest canopies, detect herds of large animals on the crater floor and see some safari vehicles traveling along the crisscrossing roads. Tomorrow, that would be us.

Completing the final part of our journey, we were soon pulling into our home for the next two nights, the Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge.

Settling in, we were soon enjoying cocktails while admiring the stunning sunset from the lodge’s lounge and it’s westward facing location. Small monkeys paraded around the grounds and a couple of Cape Buffalo were spotted near the rear of the lodge foraging for their dinner.

The next morning, up bright and early and outfitted appropriately for the colder temperatures of the crater’s rim, we set out under the darkness of the new morning. After a brief stop to check in at the Ranger’s station, we began making our way down the canopy covered road.

Centuries ago, a towering volcanic mountain, as high as Kilimanjaro, stood in this spot. After a tremendous eruption, the volcano’s interior, empty of magma, could no longer support the weight above and collapsed on itself. It became the world’s sixth-largest unbroken caldera with more than a hundred square miles in its flat bottom, which did not flood. Its diverse environment of savannas, marshes, lakes, salt pans, forests and escarpments then became the home for many species of African wildlife, which we hoped to see.

As luck would have it, the first sighting of the day was of some “honeymooners”. Not the human kind…these honeymooners were two separate sets of male and female lions almost lost in the tall grass. The lion mating ritual was one of complete interest, once the affair was explained to us by our guide.

The female, already in estrus, attracts the male who mounts her, inserting his penis, which has barbs that begin to dig into the female. As he retracts, the pain caused to the female causes her to lash out at him, swatting her large paws at him. As the mating ritual continues approximately every fifteen minutes for as many as five days, the female produces eggs and the chances of fertilization is increased.

Watching both of these interesting spectacles for their many attempts, we noticed one of the male’s brothers lying in wait…hoping for a chance at the female if she tired of his sibling.

Moving on, we spied many other animals that we had yet to see during our trek…a lone jackal, a pair of nocturnal bat-eared foxes returning to their den for a days rest and finally…wildebeests. Thousands of blue wildebeests roamed the crater floor, grazing in the early morning light.

Personally, I love the wildebeests for their unique appearance. Nicknamed “Spare Parts”, it’s easy to see why as they look like they were made from so many other animals! Their forequarters look like they come from an ox, their hindquarters from an antelope and their mane and tail from a horse.

Driving along the countless trails that span the crater floor, a female lion was spotted alongside the road. A few 4x4s stopped to admire her reserved beauty as she lounged in the heat of the new day. Soon, tiring of her grassy spot, she stood and ambled over to the road, making her way between two of the safari vehicles. Laziness prevailed and she quickly decided that the middle of the road was much better than her previous spot. Too bad for those trying to make their way!

Continuing on, we passed another pride of lions while continuing over a hill admiring the many zebras making their way in a line along the ridge. As we crested the hill, before us stood a most beautiful oasis!

Truly, my breath was taken away as we looked out at the clouds wrapping their misty fingers over the crater’s rim and the reflections within a pond lying before us, only broken by the occasional movement of the many hippo lounging within.

As we pulled up to the pond, preparing to have our breakfast here, I stepped out of our safari vehicle to stretch my legs and to make my way to the restroom facilities. A huge splash and a loud grunt, however, caught my attention. Mesmerized, I watched an extremely large hippo lunge through the pond toward another, bellowing loudly. The next few minutes were filled with two hippos berating each other, whipping their tales and splashing wildly while engaging the other in a sinister altercation.

Knowing that many deaths are attributed to hippos each year did not deter me from venturing closer and closer to the lake in an attempt to catch this exhibition on camera, so fascinating as it was! It was the most exciting thing we had seen thus far!

Soon, the hippos tired of each other and moved on to meld with the other hippos wading in the shallows of the basin.

Enjoying our breakfast, we marveled at our surroundings, basking in its endless beauty. I couldn’t stop watching the clouds rolling over the top of the crater, the succession of zebras that continued to make their way over the hill behind us and to the rear of the lake and the hippos that continued to laze in the murky waters. Honestly, I don’t know if I have ever been in a more beautiful place!

Our morning meal completed, we reluctantly moved on, migrating with the other vehicles along the dusty crater roads. Flightless male ostriches flaunted their pink necks and plumage and my favorite feathered creature in the crater, the Secretary Bird, made itself known throughout our journey.

Our next stop was at another hippo pool. This one and its surroundings, however, were filled with so much activity, we were unsure where to focus our attention. In the pool, hippos lounged lazily, occasionally flipping over to flash their undersides and countless birds waded in the shallows and lingered along the banks. Ranks of zebras, head to tail, made their way along the rear of the pool and in the distance we spotted something amazing…a pride of lions guarding their kill!

Lazing in the mid-morning sun after their filling meal, they allowed the occasional hyena and jackal to enjoy the remnants of the slaughtered Cape Buffalo. Meanwhile, a herd of Cape Buffalo, possibly the relations of the deceased, moved closer and closer to the pride, finally coming to a standoff. The herd, wanting to pass, stared the pride down until finally backing away and taking another path to the watering hole avoiding the many hyena and jackal roaming the area.

Reluctantly departing this array of activity, we found ourselves at a rest stop. Taking a small break, we walked around the area, enjoying the foliage and eyeing an elephant roaming among the trees.

As usual, our safari vehicle was the last to leave the area, but as we pulled away from the rest stop, my husband noticed movement in another cluster of trees. An enormous elephant moved out from the brush, exposing the largest set of tusks that we had ever seen. Estimated by our guide to be about sixty years old, he stayed near the tree line. As another vehicle pulled up to speak to our driver, we watched the old guy move away from the trees and slowly amble toward us. His gait was slow and tired but we soon noticed him picking up speed, realizing he was heading right for us! And…Fahad was not paying attention! “Fahad! Fahad!” We weren’t sure what was going to happen and we all ducked into the vehicle just as the senior mammoth reached us and bumped the back of our 4×4! As quickly as he came, he ambled away…”his fifth leg” swinging and obviously please with himself. Pulses beating rapidly, we drove away and allowed him to enjoy the rest of his day while we explored the Lerai Forest, home to the tall, slim yellow barked acacia trees.

The remainder of the day was filled with monkeys, zebras, wildebeests, ostriches, gazelles and a fun pair of warthogs, covered in mud and hellbent on using a rock to give themselves a good scratching!

The day was drawing to a close and as we traveled toward home, one more thing presented itself to us. A lion relaxed on one of the small culvert walls adjacent to the road. So close was he to our vehicle that I could have reached out and given him a pat. Now, I would have had a great story to tell, I’m sure, but probably would have left an appendage or two behind.

As we drove out of Ngorongoro Crater, it was hard to believe the spectacles we had witnessed. I had thought it would be hard to beat the Serengeti, but the crater had offered up its own predators, beasts and fowl. Cruising the crater floor was truly one of the most amazing parts of our safari thus far. Though we were saying goodbye at this point, we headed back to our lodge, knowing we would say our final goodbyes looking out over the crater. The famous Ngorongoro sunset would be our ultimate adieu.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Ngorongoro Crater

http://www.ngorongorocrater.org/
Gates and barriers open at 0600 and close at 1800, except for the Seneto Descent Gate, which close at 1600 hours.
ALL VISITORS TO NGORONGORO CRATER MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A LICENSED GUIDE.
Keep to authorized roads and tracks. No off-road driving.
Speed limits 25km/hour
Only vehicles equipped with standard safaris equipment allowed in the Crater (heavy-duty jack; chain/rope; shovel/hoe; axe/panga)
No more than 5 vehicles around an animal or kill

Ngorongoro Crater

http://www.ngorongorocrater.org/