Murano – Snapping The Globe

You know the saying…”the glass is half full”?

My husband is that kind of guy…always sees the bright spot!

While my husband could have been upset that I only allotted a condensed visit to Murano during our day, he was elated that he would have any time there at all. My birthday, my decision…he had agreed to this plan! So…glass half full!

Revisiting Murano was not high on my list. Twice before, I had called upon the island, most recently, the week before. Both times, I had been part of a tour and was taken immediately to one of the glass blowing demonstrations in one of the workshops on the Grand Canal of Murano. With limited time, because of the presentation, my impression of Murano was not optimum. Not having time to do much exploration, the only thing I could associate with it was a dark, cramped (and hot) workspace, filled with other tourists, holding up their iPhone (me included), trying to document a master glassblower manipulate molten glass into a small pony. Then, being ushered into the crowded giftshop so that I could buy a replica of that breakable steed.

Arriving from Burano, we disembarked onto the Murano Faro dock and had a wonderful view of the tall, elegant lighthouse that was built in 1934. Walking down Calle Bressagio, we passed the Oratorio Ex ospizio Briati, a chapel which was the former Carmelite convent and followed the street until we reached the canal along Fondamenta Manin, where we browsed the many souvenir shops that line the waterway.

A building across the canal caught my eye and I quickly ushered my husband across the bridge….the Church of Saint Peter Martyr. This ancient church was originally built in 1348 with a Dominican convent and was dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. After a fire in 1474, it was rebuilt to its current state and was one of the two main parish churches on the island of Murano that I planned to visit.

Church of Saint Peter Martyr

The church contains some important works by Tintoretto (Baptism of Christ), Giovanni Bellini (Assumption with Saints and Barbarigo Altarpiece), Giovane (San Nicolo, Santa Lucia, San Carlo Borromeo), Paolo Veronese (Saint Jerome in the Desert), Giovanni Agostino da Lodi (Barcaioli Altarpiece) and Guisseppe Porta (Deposition from the Cross). In the right wing is the Ballarin Chapel, built in 1506 and named after the famous glassmaker from Murano. It is a humble church, but warm and welcoming.

Continuing our explorations, strangely enough, we found ourselves at the Guarnieri Glass Factory. It wasn’t one of the factories that I had visited previously, but it also wasn’t something that I had really desired to experience again. As we approached the arched entrance, decorated with beautiful glass roses, a gentleman greeted us warmly. The factory was about to close, but he agreed to ask the master craftsman if he would do one more demonstration for us. Although this man seemed reluctant, no doubt ready to retreat to his air conditioned home for a nice dinner, he agreed after another couple approached.

Sweating profusely in the intense heat, he shaped a beautiful stallion, much more elegant that the ones I had witnessed being sculpted at the other demonstrations. For his final act, a glass bubble was blown and popped, signaling his departure!

I must admit, while it was not something I had wished to do again, it was quite nice to be one of only two couples in attendance and I later learned that this is one of the best places to seek out this experience. The outstanding thing about it, however, was that before leaving, I ended up with a beautiful necklace from the gift shop! A splendid birthday gift!

Murano boasted an impressive landscape along its hidden streets and central canals…stunning Italian architecture, cobblestone streets and occasional handblown glass exhibits randomly placed in courtyards throughout. While we never did make it to the other church that I so desired to see, Duomo Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato, we enjoyed the impressive scenery that we encountered.

It was getting late in the afternoon at this point and the sun’s slanted rays led to an ambiance that I had never experienced in Murano having visited earlier in the day. Entranced with the deepening of the colors along the canals, I actually hated to leave. Indubitably a much different Murano, one I would choose to return to again.

As we boarded the water taxi for our return to Venice, we found the ride to be much more enjoyable with the heat of the day diminishing. In fact, a cool breeze made our ride quite refreshing especially since we were able to snag a spot on the outside deck. Cruising between the islands, the sunlight glittered on the waters as we passed Cimitero di San Michele, the 10th century cemetery christened after the resident Church of Saint Michael. Entering the canals of Venice, we passed elegant bridges spanning its width, and spied architecture, palpable in late afternoon sunshine, while tourists strolled the banks searching for their dinner destination.

These tourists would be us later, celebrating my birthday and the glass would definitely be full…of my favorite Italian beer!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Church of Saint Peter Martyr

Address: Fondamenta dei Vetrai, 30141 Venezia VE, Italy
Hours: Unknown
Admission: free

Guarnieri Vetreria Artistica

Address: Fondamenta Serenella, 11, 30141 Venezia VE, Italy
Hours: Monday to Friday, 0900-1800, Saturday, 0900-1645, Sunday, Closed
Admission: free

When I began thinking about writing this post, the first things that popped into my head was the song from Gilligan’s Island.

Just sit right back and you hear a tale, a tale of a fateful trip…

While we were on a three hour tour (or pretty close) and we kind of had a skipper and a first mate (the two who planned the tour). The only things in common with Gilligan’s outing was that we were taking a boat and heading to some islands, but we were praying that it would not be a fateful trip! Thankfully, it was anything but, however, there were some times I was doubtful.

Although I had been to the Venetian island of Murano, many years ago, I had never made it to any of the others. When approached by some of my friends about taking a tour that his wife had set up, I instantly agreed. It sounded like a day of sun and fun! It also ended up being a day with a few challenges!

Finding out where our boat would be picking us up was the first challenge. We wondered if we had walked over the bridge to the wrong location, but after some pacing, self-doubt and frantic internet searches, we saw the boat sidling up to the pier…a few minutes late.

Making our way across the gangplank, we were on our way.

First stop, Murano.

The ride across the Venetian Lagoon was not long, however, we were fortunate that one of us had the forethought to bring a small ice chest filled with champagne and beer…you know…to pass the time. Now, whether this was allowed or not…I can only say that we were not asked to stop and we even shared with some other tourists!

A couple of drinks later, I noticed that the lighthouse at the entrance to the harbor of Murano was growing closer. Making our way into the main canal, the boat eventually pulled up to the pier, allowing us to disembark. We were ushered into one of the many glassmaking studios to witness a glassblowing demonstration, which I remembered from my first visit. After its completion, I made my way along the canal boardwalk. Peering into the many Venetian glass shops, I admired the artistry, resisting the temptation to pull out my wallet and bring home a few colorful pieces.

Keeping up my walk and an eye on the time, my internal radar led me to…what else? A church. The Renaissance church of Santa Maria degli Angeli was built in 1188 and then rebuilt in 1529. Though it was not open, I was able to make my way throughout the property and admire the exterior architecture.

Returning to the banks of the Canale degli Angeli, I strolled along, photographing and admiring the beauty of the day and my surroundings. The last time I had been here, was during winter. Bitterly cold, we had only concentrated on a few shops that day and one of the glassblowing demonstrations. In the bright sunshine of this summer day, the buildings were distinctive and the water sparkled. It was much more stunning than I had remembered.

I spotted my companions up ahead near the Ponte Longo Lino Toffolo (bridge). Pausing for some quick photos, we then ran back to the meeting point to depart on our boat for the next island, Torcello.

A short ride later, with some additional drinks and snacks picked up in Murano, we were arriving at the island’s pier. Time was limited and I wanted to see as much as I could. While my travel companions opted to take a seat at one of the restaurants to have another drink, I headed to the 7th century Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta. A small line snaked from the entrance, so I opted to only enter the Byzantine Church of Santa Fosca and walk the grounds of the church and the Museo Provinciale di Torcello.

*Grounds of* *Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta*

As in Murano, time was limited and I made sure to leave enough for the long walk back to the pier, so as not to miss our boat’s departure. Running into one of my colleagues, we quickly walked to the gangplank, however, not seeing our other companions, whom he had left earlier at the restaurant, we begged the guide to wait a few more minutes. Running to the corner, we did not see them and quickly made the decision that we would miss the boat if they did not show. Finally, they came strolling around the corner! Thankfully, the boat had waited and we all hastily hopped on board, ready for Burano.

Thankful that we had all made it and didn’t have to figure out our own way to Burano or back to Venice, I eagerly anticipated our next stop. Burano, is the island that I was most excited for. Over the years, I had seen pictures and always planned for a trip. Usually arriving into Venice at mid-day, it was always a bit tough to make it to the ferry and over to Burano and back, so I had never made it a priority. Today, even with limited time on the tour, I planned to squeeze in as much as I could so that maybe on a future visit, I would be more prepared.

That first views of the colorful buildings of Burano was unlike anything I had ever imagined. Set against the bright blue sky, they were absolutely breathtaking! Deciding to stick together this time, the four of us headed along the banks of the canals and through the small alleyways that make up the island…well, until we lost one at a bar! Deciding to pick him up on our way back to the boat, we set out to explore more of the colorful fisherman’s village.

Striped curtains covered doorways, allowing both ventilation, privacy and a quaint charm. Many of the buildings offered Moorish influences and small bridges spanned the canals. We learned that that any person wishing to paint their building in Burano have to follow a specific system and submit a request to the government which, in turn, issues a permit for certain colors to allow for variety and yet, consistency.

While Murano is known for its glass making, Burano is known for its lace. There were many shops featuring the beautiful lace that the island is famous for. Lacemaking was started in the 16th century and continues today, although only a few lace makers create it in the traditional way. Beautiful examples of traditional lace and demonstrations can be found at the Lace Museum in the palace of Podesta of Torcello, though we only opted to admire the artistry from the shops lining the canal.

We spotted Burano’s leaning tower, located near the San Martino Church. Dating back to the 16th century, Il Campanile Storto tilts severely and can be viewed from many points throughout the island, including the nearby Piazza di Galuppi. While I had hoped to visit The Chapel of Santa Barbara and a few other notable landmarks, we had to make do with walking down the nearby main street and grabbing some refreshing gelato before seeking out our mislaid companion.

While he wasn’t where we initially left him, with a little luck, we found him otherwise engaged in conversation on a bench with a local, before we dragged him back to the boat!

Finally, our tour of the three islands completed, we headed back to Venice. with the sun falling lower in the evening sky. A magical day, I was happy with all that I had seen and that it was a day that I did not have to plan. Although my colleagues may have been a bit challenged with getting to the boat on time, we had made it back to Venice in time for dinner.

All four of us…the skipper, the first mate, Mr. Howell and me, the movie star…okay…okay…Mary Ann.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Getting to Murano, Burano or Torcello

http://www.venice-guide.info/Water_Bus_Lines_Venice.php
There are many tours available which visit the three sister islands. Check with your hotel or a quick internet search will point you in the right direction.
Take a water bus or vaporetto. Line 3: Express line between bus station and main station to Murano (Non Stop), journey time about 20 minutes. Line 7: Direct lines between San Marco and Murano. Line 7 runs from the south of Venice to the island of Murano in the north of Venice. Line 12: From Venice to the islands of Murano, Burano, Torcello and Mazzorbo from Fondamente Nove. Line 13: From Venice to the islands of Murano, Vignole and Sant Erasmo. Line 14: From San Marco to Lido, Punta Sabbioni and Burano.
Fares: 24 hour unlimited fare, 24€, 12 hour unlimited fare, 18€. One way fare, 7.50€.

Category: Murano

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