Mbour – Snapping The Globe

Three whole days in Senegal!

That much time in Senegal nowadays is a rarity for me and I was excited for the possibilities it held. Until…we found out that my company had changed our hotel at the last minute due to a problem with our regular one. The one we were being moved to was in the middle of nowhere! Nothing to do but hang at the overly crowded pool and stare out of my dusty window at the highway.

Thank goodness, I have a good friend who operates his own tour company, The Motherland Experience! After contacting Mass Kane, my friend Amy and I quizzed him for some different tour ideas since we both have done quite a lot within the country.

We perused a few different options that he presented and finally decided on the Saloum Delta. Located on the southwestern coast of Senegal, this is the area where the Saloum river meets the Atlantic Ocean. What interested us most was that we were told that if we made it there on time, we might be able to participate in the drum mass at the Catholic church. Now that was something I was wanting to see…and hear!

Leaving early in the morning, we began the long drive, past the resort town of Saly toward Fatick. In Mbour, we stopped quickly so that we could get a glimpse of the Grand Mosquee de Gandigal-Est. Though we could not get closer than the front gates, past the tall palms that line the front walkway we could see that it was a stunning piece of architecture with its twin minarets reaching skyward. A little further, we drove down a narrow dirt road to check out the Catholic Church’s steeple towering over the trees. Attracting a great deal of attention, a group of young girls came over to say hello. Wanting to practice their English, they giggled and asked me my name and insisted we all take a picture together!

*Catholic Church and local school girls*

Continuing on our way, we reached Fatick, where witnessing large crowds walking through the muddy streets and congregating in a large field, we learned that the community was hosting a festival. While I am sure that it would have been interesting to take part, we had a destination in mind, so after stopping to watch a few minutes of a wrestling match in the field, we headed out.

A short time later, we pulled over again.

Now, there are baobab trees everywhere in western Africa and I have seen some gigantic ones during my times there, but the tree located here? It was one of the largest baobab trees I had ever seen. Mass wanted us to see this magnificent beauty so we all jumped out and began to take pictures. On one side of the tree, we noticed a hole…the entrance to the inside of the tree! Many of the baobab trees are hollow and as they are considered sacred, they are often used for burials of the village elders, but we were invited to climb inside as it was empty. Well, I am not one to pass up a challenge, so I readied myself, hike up a leg and attempted to follow the directions of the Senegalese men offering to help me inside. It is was not the most elegant of entrances and I actually got stuck for a moment, but finally after wiggling a bit, I made it in!

Very dark and damp, it seemed more like a cave and realizing that I was feeling drops of what felt like water, I looked up. Well, what do you normally find in caves? Bats! Hundreds of bats were circling above me and were attached to the inside of the tree. And that water? Well, you know…not water.

Getting out of there as fast as I could, I prayed that I didn’t contract any airborne illnesses from the bats and headed over to the nearby stalls to check out some of the local crafts for sale.

Finally, we were on our way once again and after a few short miles, we arrived at the Somone Lagoon. Herding us down to the boats, Mass greeted the boatman and we were on our way through the Saloum Delta.

The delta is the perfect place to see a variety of wildlife and birds among the mangrove trees. We glided through the calm waters admiring nearby houses and wharfs. As the boat eventually slowed, we pulled up to a small beach onto Morloth Island. On the shore was a small hotel with woven hammocks swinging in the breeze under a grass hut. This looked like a place I could hang out for a couple of days!

Quickly guided to the rear of the structure, we were loaded onto a horse-drawn cart with a few other visitors. Heading out, we bumped along the dirt road until we reached a small, quaint village.

The narrow road, lined by high walls, protected the cinderblock structures behind them and after a short ride, we were pulling into the main part of the village. A white, weathered gazebo stood in the center, obviously the place for village gatherings and we spotted a minaret towering above the village mosque. Children walked together in groups and many local artisans attempted to attract our attention to sell us their wares. A little ways up the road, we were shown the marriage trees. These trees had grown adjacent to each other and intertwined. With their tall roots extending from their bases, it was a great spot for photos.

A short walk led us to the Catholic church, Missionaire Du Sacre Coeur. This is the scene of the famous drum mass that we had heard of, but sadly, we learned that we were too late. The Sunday services were complete and with it the sounds of the local instruments. Disappointed, we stepped through the doors of the church, admired the stark simplicity of the interior with its pointed arches, heavy wooden pews and small stained glass windows which encircled the worship space. Designed for a smaller congregation, it was intimate and even more of a disappointment that we did not get to participate in the Sunday services.

Setting out to make the return trip, we first stopped at a large, covered pavilion; the craft market. Unlike any craft market I had ever experienced, these ladies were intent on each vendor getting a crack at selling their wares. While, I like to peruse all commodities in a normal market for the best selection, we were each greeted by a village woman and ushered over to a chair. The woman then proceeded to show me what she had. Only. I wasn’t allowed to look at what was being offered to anyone beside me or anywhere else in the pavilion. Since I have been to Africa so often and have so many mementos, it would take something extremely unique to have me open my wallet…and on this day, I saw nothing of the sort. Leaving with my merchant a bit unhappy, I decided to concentrate on the the musicians who filled the afternoon with song. Though we didn’t get to partake in the drum mass, here we listened to the beats of the local soul and watched one woman bust out her moves! She definitely had the rhythm!

Hopping back onto our cart, we were driven back to our starting point so that we could take our boat back across the delta. Here, we would have a delicious lunch to ready us for the long drive back to Dakar.

Although a long day, the trip to the Saloum delta was filled with the colorful sights and sounds of western Africa, along the way and at our destination. Definitely an experience I won’t ever forget!