baobab tree – Snapping The Globe

Three whole days in Senegal!

That much time in Senegal nowadays is a rarity for me and I was excited for the possibilities it held. Until…we found out that my company had changed our hotel at the last minute due to a problem with our regular one. The one we were being moved to was in the middle of nowhere! Nothing to do but hang at the overly crowded pool and stare out of my dusty window at the highway.

Thank goodness, I have a good friend who operates his own tour company, The Motherland Experience! After contacting Mass Kane, my friend Amy and I quizzed him for some different tour ideas since we both have done quite a lot within the country.

We perused a few different options that he presented and finally decided on the Saloum Delta. Located on the southwestern coast of Senegal, this is the area where the Saloum river meets the Atlantic Ocean. What interested us most was that we were told that if we made it there on time, we might be able to participate in the drum mass at the Catholic church. Now that was something I was wanting to see…and hear!

Leaving early in the morning, we began the long drive, past the resort town of Saly toward Fatick. In Mbour, we stopped quickly so that we could get a glimpse of the Grand Mosquee de Gandigal-Est. Though we could not get closer than the front gates, past the tall palms that line the front walkway we could see that it was a stunning piece of architecture with its twin minarets reaching skyward. A little further, we drove down a narrow dirt road to check out the Catholic Church’s steeple towering over the trees. Attracting a great deal of attention, a group of young girls came over to say hello. Wanting to practice their English, they giggled and asked me my name and insisted we all take a picture together!

*Catholic Church and local school girls*

Continuing on our way, we reached Fatick, where witnessing large crowds walking through the muddy streets and congregating in a large field, we learned that the community was hosting a festival. While I am sure that it would have been interesting to take part, we had a destination in mind, so after stopping to watch a few minutes of a wrestling match in the field, we headed out.

A short time later, we pulled over again.

Now, there are baobab trees everywhere in western Africa and I have seen some gigantic ones during my times there, but the tree located here? It was one of the largest baobab trees I had ever seen. Mass wanted us to see this magnificent beauty so we all jumped out and began to take pictures. On one side of the tree, we noticed a hole…the entrance to the inside of the tree! Many of the baobab trees are hollow and as they are considered sacred, they are often used for burials of the village elders, but we were invited to climb inside as it was empty. Well, I am not one to pass up a challenge, so I readied myself, hike up a leg and attempted to follow the directions of the Senegalese men offering to help me inside. It is was not the most elegant of entrances and I actually got stuck for a moment, but finally after wiggling a bit, I made it in!

Very dark and damp, it seemed more like a cave and realizing that I was feeling drops of what felt like water, I looked up. Well, what do you normally find in caves? Bats! Hundreds of bats were circling above me and were attached to the inside of the tree. And that water? Well, you know…not water.

Getting out of there as fast as I could, I prayed that I didn’t contract any airborne illnesses from the bats and headed over to the nearby stalls to check out some of the local crafts for sale.

Finally, we were on our way once again and after a few short miles, we arrived at the Somone Lagoon. Herding us down to the boats, Mass greeted the boatman and we were on our way through the Saloum Delta.

The delta is the perfect place to see a variety of wildlife and birds among the mangrove trees. We glided through the calm waters admiring nearby houses and wharfs. As the boat eventually slowed, we pulled up to a small beach onto Morloth Island. On the shore was a small hotel with woven hammocks swinging in the breeze under a grass hut. This looked like a place I could hang out for a couple of days!

Quickly guided to the rear of the structure, we were loaded onto a horse-drawn cart with a few other visitors. Heading out, we bumped along the dirt road until we reached a small, quaint village.

The narrow road, lined by high walls, protected the cinderblock structures behind them and after a short ride, we were pulling into the main part of the village. A white, weathered gazebo stood in the center, obviously the place for village gatherings and we spotted a minaret towering above the village mosque. Children walked together in groups and many local artisans attempted to attract our attention to sell us their wares. A little ways up the road, we were shown the marriage trees. These trees had grown adjacent to each other and intertwined. With their tall roots extending from their bases, it was a great spot for photos.

A short walk led us to the Catholic church, Missionaire Du Sacre Coeur. This is the scene of the famous drum mass that we had heard of, but sadly, we learned that we were too late. The Sunday services were complete and with it the sounds of the local instruments. Disappointed, we stepped through the doors of the church, admired the stark simplicity of the interior with its pointed arches, heavy wooden pews and small stained glass windows which encircled the worship space. Designed for a smaller congregation, it was intimate and even more of a disappointment that we did not get to participate in the Sunday services.

Setting out to make the return trip, we first stopped at a large, covered pavilion; the craft market. Unlike any craft market I had ever experienced, these ladies were intent on each vendor getting a crack at selling their wares. While, I like to peruse all commodities in a normal market for the best selection, we were each greeted by a village woman and ushered over to a chair. The woman then proceeded to show me what she had. Only. I wasn’t allowed to look at what was being offered to anyone beside me or anywhere else in the pavilion. Since I have been to Africa so often and have so many mementos, it would take something extremely unique to have me open my wallet…and on this day, I saw nothing of the sort. Leaving with my merchant a bit unhappy, I decided to concentrate on the the musicians who filled the afternoon with song. Though we didn’t get to partake in the drum mass, here we listened to the beats of the local soul and watched one woman bust out her moves! She definitely had the rhythm!

Hopping back onto our cart, we were driven back to our starting point so that we could take our boat back across the delta. Here, we would have a delicious lunch to ready us for the long drive back to Dakar.

Although a long day, the trip to the Saloum delta was filled with the colorful sights and sounds of western Africa, along the way and at our destination. Definitely an experience I won’t ever forget!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

The Motherland Experience

http://themotherlandexperiencetraveltours.com
Telephone: +221 77 295 24 24
Owner: Mass Kane
Email: Kanemass@hotmail.com

There was a time when I used to spend multiple days in Senegal.

Having so much time to explore, we saw a great deal of not only the city of Dakar but of the neighboring areas.

One morning, after having been up for most of the night, enjoying a few (or maybe more) cocktails, we convened in the lobby of our hotel for a day’s adventure. Though my eyes may have been a little red and my head throbbing somewhat, I made it downstairs in time to greet our tour guide for the day.

It had always been my desire to go on an African safari. I longed to roam an African nation in an open top vehicle on the search for the Big Five while shooting frame after frame with my telephoto lens. So, when my friend suggested we go to the Bandia Reserve for a “mini safari” experience, I was eager to join her, however, hearing the words, “reserve”, I must admit, I didn’t have many expectations. What I envisioned was more like a zoo.

But as our tour guide, Mass, arrived and herded us into his van, his excitement for the place he was taking us was a bit contagious. After a quick nap in the rear seat, I woke to spectacular sights during the long drive…colorful villages, Senegalese women balancing things on their heads, gaudy buses emblazoned with kooky paint jobs, men driving horse-drawn carts, huge baobab trees.

Though I was still a bit skeptical, the way Mass had described this place…3500 hectacres of grand nature…had me curious as to what we would find.

As we drove around the park, I was amazed. Although I knew this was extremely different from what I would find in say, Tanzania, Kenya or South Africa, I was impressed, especially when we came upon a large group of giraffes lounging in the road, blocking our way.

Fast forward to 2017, for my 50th birthday and 25th wedding anniversary, my husband and I finally went on safari in Tanzania. While vast acres of wilderness spread out before us in the Serengeti, Ngorogoro Crater and Tarangire National Park, my memories of the Bandia Reserve were not so different, except that we didn’t have as much expanse to drive around and that we never found the elusive rhinos that reside in Bandia.

Coming back to Dakar after being off for a year due to Covid, I was excited to see, once again, the city that holds such a dear place in my heart. I was even more excited to learn that a good friend would be flying with me and we, both avid photographers, made plans to go to revisit the Bandia Reserve.

I had made arrangements for Mass to drive us to Bandia Reserve and two other members of our work group decided to join us. After a long night of no sleep, (this time due to work…no cocktails!), we all dozed during the long drive, reminiscent of my first expedition. However, I was awake long enough to enjoy the colorful sights!

As we pulled into the park and exited our vehicle, the first thing I noticed was a gigantic baobab tree (sacred to the Senegalese) and a few monkeys scampering around its base. Mesmerized by these small apes and their antics, we were unaware that our vehicle was ready to be loaded and we had to be collected by Mass as our safari driver was ready to take us through the park.

Heading out on the bumpy, dirt roads, we passed through the part of the park that houses the giant tortoises and the hyenas. The hyenas have a place of “honor” behind a tall, secure chain link gate and are the only carnivores within the park. As you can imagine, since the park is secured by towering barricades at its borders, the other residents would be sitting ducks for these fierce, doglike creatures during their comestible pursuits.

Continuing into the wild, it wasn’t long before we had our first encounter. A group of giraffes were enjoying the shade of a robust baobab tree and the nearby thicket. One stood warily as we approached, seemingly ready to defend its turf if we ventured too close while others merely ignored our presence. A short drive away, we encountered a group of three young males eager to show their prowess by fighting each other by using their necks.

As we made our way down each of the dusty roads, we encountered, ostriches, giant eland, oryx, antelope, waterbuck, western Buffon’s cob, greater kudu, nyalas, impalas, gazelles, warthogs, buffalo, more monkeys, more giraffe and many species of bird.

Not long after an encounter with a pair of zebras, we were driving along and noticed another jeep parked down a narrow lane. Our driver quickly turned and approached slowly. What had eluded us on my first visit was sitting lazily under the tree in front of us…the park’s two rhinos! Resting in the shade, these magnificent creatures, used to being gawked at by visitors, merely looked over at us through heavily lidded eyes with much disinterest. Finally, one stood and took a few steps toward our vehicle, giving us more photographic opportunities and the impression that maybe we had worn out our welcome.

Backing slowly, we retreated the way we had come in search of more adventure in Bandia.

A short time later, after countless sighting of smaller animals and more giraffe, we came to another giant baobab tree and a sign, Tombeau de Griots (the Tomb of the Griots). This tree is one of the last baobab trees that house griot remains. The griots are considered masters of knowledge and keepers of historical records across generations. They include singers, poets, instrumentalists, musicians and storytellers who maintain a tradition of oral history in parts of West Africa. Because the baobabs are considered sacred and represent longevity and knowledge, they were chosen to be the appropriate place to store the remains of the griots.

I had remembered this place from my first visit and as I jumped out of the jeep and peered into the opening at the base of the baobab tree, I once again saw the skulls of the griots. They are protected by a metal screen so that the bones cannot be disturbed. Although these remains have been allowed to stay inside of this particular baobab tree due to it being on private property, since 1962, the burial of griots in baobabs has been banned due to the health risks of the decomposition of bodies.

After a couple of photos with my travel mates, we jumped back into our safari jeep and headed back to the front of the reserve. Inside the restaurant, we took a look at the crocodiles in the lake and skirted the monkeys looking for a handout from the diners.

*Restaurants, shops and public areas at the Bandia Reserve.*

It had already been a long day, but Mass decided that it was not over. Though we toyed with the idea of dining at the reserve, our guide promised us that he had a much better place. A short drive took us to the beachfront in Saly for some fresh seafood and picturesque views.

Once again, Senegal did not disappoint. Nature at its finest…on all fronts!

If you are visiting Dakar, make sure to book a trip to the Bandia Reserve, one of Senegal’s highlights. Also, right across the street is the Lion Ranch…your opportunity to see the big cats of Senegal. Definitely on my to-do list!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Bandia Reserve

http://reservedebandia.com/home.html
Address: N 2 Route de Mbour, Saly, SN
Hours: 0800-1800, daily
Admission: Payments can be made in FCFA, Euros or by credit card. Adults, 12,000 FCFA or 18.50€, Children under 12 years, 7,000 FCFA or 10.50€. Use outside vehicle (personal, taxi, car), 10,000 FCFA or 15€, Safari truck rental with up to 11 seats, 40,000 FCFA or 61€, Safari truck rental up to 24 seats, 60,000 FCFA or 91€, Guide (compulsory)per vehicle, 6.500 FCFA or 10€.
Getting There: Coming from Dakar by motorway, take the Sindia/Popeguine exit number 14 to Sindia in 2 km, then take a right on the National Road (N1) Dakar-Mbour for 3,3 km, turn left at the signposts, continue the track in laterite for 800m. Coming from Saly, you will have 15 km to travel and 18 km from Mbour.

Motherland Experience Travel Tours

http://themotherlandexperiencetraveltours.com
Telephone: +221 77 295 24 24
Email: Kanemass@hotmail.com
Owner: Mass Kane

Tag: baobab tree

Baobabs, Bats, Birds and Boats

Into the Wild