One of the best things about Charleston is that it is a great walking city. With so much history within its boundaries, there is a wealth of information at your fingertips…or rather footsteps…
From block to block, every building, signpost, gate and cobblestone has a story to tell.
Some are marked with signs stating their historical significance.
Some, you can find with a tour guide’s help.
Some, you just need to know.
And some you just stumble upon, along with historical events happening as you walk on by!
2020 Charleston Mayoral Inauguration
Take the time to explore…and learn.
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Situated on the eastern coast of the United States, Charleston has always been subject to natural disasters. Hurricane season still has the city shuttering up and evacuating when an imposing storm approaches.
In its long and tumultuous history, Charleston has also had to face earthquakes, tornadoes and epidemics, but there was one thing that had an even greater impact on the city.
Fire.
The Great Fire of 1698, swept through Charleston only 28 years after it was first settled, devastating the city. Despite the purchase of firefighting equipment, decrees requiring chimneys to be built from brick or stone and night watches, more fires ravaged the city again in 1700, 1740 and in the 1770’s.
After volunteer fire companies were organized during the first half of the 19th century, over 1600 volunteers were available to protect property owners, however, when the Great Fire of 1861 devastated the city, it was the motivation that the city needed to establish a permanent firefighting organization.
As I walked down Meeting Street and perused the dinner menu for Jestine’s Kitchen posted in the window, I noticed in the reflection, the Firehouse across the street. What really caught my eye, actually, was the the cute Dalmatian statue gracing the front of the station!
This central fire house, along with two others, was built under the orders of Mayor William A. Courtenay and in 1882, the city’s first paid fire department was established.
Walking across the street for a closer look, I discovered a small park on the corner of Meeting and Wentworth streets, adjacent to the fire station. Constructed to honor Mayor Courtenay it houses a cast iron pavilion and a commemorative cast iron bell honoring the mayor’s achievements. There is also a fountain that was originally fed by an artesian well, one of several installed around the city to provide the residents with clean water in the 19th century.
After I visited the garden, I took a peek into the firehouse. In addition, to a modern, shiny fire engine parked in one of the Meeting Street bays, there was also two antiques parked in the bays on Wentworth.
A cool diversion for a hot topic!
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There was one thing that I wanted to do while in Charleston but it can sometimes be tricky during the winter.
Fort Sumter.
Less frequent boat schedules and colder weather are sometimes off-putting, so, when I noticed that temperatures were going to be unseasonably warm while I would be in Charleston, I decided that my plan would be a “go”.
Armed with a few layers and an umbrella (just in case), I headed over to the Liberty Square with an intent to catch the afternoon boat. Though it is recommended to purchase tickets in advance during the busier months, I found no problem in purchasing one at the last minute at the National Park Visitor Center.
The Visitor Center offers information about the Fort and its history to browse before boarding the boat and I read through the information while awaiting our boarding time.
The boat, a pseudo paddle wheeler, soon pulled adjacent to the pier. Taking a spot in the front of the boat, I enjoyed the breezy thirty minute ride to the island.
Once we arrived, we were given sixty minutes to tour the fort and the island. National Parks rangers greeted us at the pier and instructed those wanting to take part in the close-of-the-day flag ceremony to follow them to the upper part of the fort. Interesting as that sounded, I was more interested in taking unobstructed photographs, so I used this time, while others were occupied, to walk around the fort.
Construction began on the fort in 1829 and was named for Revolutionary War general and South Carolina native, Thomas Sumter. The fort was one of fifty built as part of a coastal defense program implemented by Congress in 1817 and was erected on a man-made island entirely formed from thousands of tons of granite. It was the site of the Battle of Fort Sumter in 1861, where a thirty-four hour exchange of artillery fire…the first shots of the Civil War…let to a surrender and the occupation by Confederate troops. After the Civil War, the fort was restored by the U.S. military and occupied during the Spanish-American War (1898), World War I (1914-1918) and World War II (1939-1945). In 1948, the fort was decommissioned as a military post and turned over to the National Park Service as a National Historic Site.
Although the fort is built on an 2.4 acre island, there is much to discover including the Powder magazine (where Fort Sumter’s powder was stored) the Gorge Wall (the lightly-armed rear wall facing inland) the Battery Huger (named for War hero, Isaac Huger) and a small museum highlighting the fort’s history and items from its occupation. There are a large number and variety of cannons throughout the property and on the top level, a beautiful view of the bay and Fort Johnson, the site where the first shots of the Civil War were fired from.
An hour goes by pretty quickly and after I had captured my last photograph, the rangers were ushering us out to the waiting boat prepared to take us back to Liberty Square. As the sun was going down, so was the temperature and it was nice to take a seat inside, especially since they were now serving adult beverages!
Nothing like a good adult beverage on a sunset cruise!
That’s what is so great about a visit to Fort Sumter…it’s a two-for-one tour! You not only get a lesson on Civil War history, you get a cruise of the harbor, complete with after-hour beverages. You can even step it up and add to the theme! Have a “shot”!!!
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There are approximately sixty-five churches in Charleston’s downtown area and as I stood at my hotel window, so many majestic steeples and spires dotted the landscape, I almost lost count!
I was intrigued! I always seek out churches in Europe, but I was curious to see what these churches, some very historic, would offer. As I stood before the window, I decided that this would be my mission that day. I would try to see and photograph as many of these historic places of worship as I could!
The French Huguenot Church was first on my list, not only because it was in the area that I was headed, but I was captivated by pictures I had seen. Dating back to 1845, this was the third church to stand on the site and it is the only remaining independent Huguenot Church in America. Although I didn’t get the opportunity to venture inside, I was able to admire its Gothic styled windows, buttresses and decorative details.
Just down the street, I was drawn to St. Philip’s Episcopal Church, one of the most photographed landmarks in Charleston. In 1681, a small wooden building on the site of the current St. Michael’s Episcopal church, housed the congregation until a new church was built on this location in the 1700’s. This church, however, was destroyed by fire in 1835. The current church was completed in 1838 and it’s lofty steeple added a decade later. Again, neither the church nor its graveyard were open as I strolled by, but it should be noted that there are many prominent people buried in this location, including several colonial Governors, five Episcopal bishops and a former United States Vice President.
The Circular Church was organized in 1681 by English Congregationalists, Scots Presbyterians and French Huguenots who were seeking religious freedom. Located on Meeting Street, it was their first church, known as the White Meeting House, that gave the street its name. The second structure was completed in 1806 until it was damaged by the Great Charleston Fire in 1861 and then completely demolished by the Charleston earthquake of 1886. The current circular Romanesque church was completed in 1892, using material from the previous structure. Though, once again, the church was not open to visitors, the graveyard offered some interesting grave sites and tombstones, one dating back to 1695.
So, I was batting zero as far as seeing interiors of these significant sanctuaries and my average didn’t get any better as I arrived at the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist. Out front, a sign was posted stating that the interior was closed while it was receiving a fresh coat of paint! Standing outside, I had to imagine what its notable stained glass windows looked like from the inside while gazing up at the relatively new spire. The cathedral dates back to its completion in 1854, only to see its destruction by the Great Charleston Fire in seven years later. The current construction was completed in 1907, with it spire added 103 years later. Disappointed that I was unable to see the interior of the cathedral, I was invited into the basement chapel by the church’s secretary, for a small respite from the unseasonably warm temperatures.
A little further down the block, I found St. Michael’s, and finally, a church that was open! Built between 1752 and 1761, St. Michael’s Episcopal Church is one of the oldest churches in Charleston, surviving hurricanes, wars, fires and earthquakes. It has hosted some very famous guests including George Washington in 1791 and Robert E. Lee in 1861. As I wandered through the historic structure, I noted the beautiful stained glass window in the apse, a brass chandelier, carved wooden pulpit, cedar box-pews, the three-sided second story gallery and its grand organ.
Despite my disappointment in my mission with most churches being closed, this beautiful church restored my vigor!
Heading in the opposite direction, I made my way over to the Emanuel African Methodist Episcopal Church, often referred to as Mother Emanuel. A Gothic Revival style church built in 1891, it is the oldest African Methodist Episcopal (AME) church in the south. Though I was unaware at the time, I discovered later that this was the church that was the site of a mass shooting in 2015 when a man entered the church and opened fire on a Bible study group.
The Second Presbyterian Church was located a couple of blocks away on Wragg Square. Founded in 1809, the church is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Designed in the Classic Revival style, the brick building features two tiers of windows, a square tower with an octagonal belfry and a Tuscan portico.
Moving on, I spied the New Tabernacle Fourth Baptist Church down the street. After later spotting photographs of this Gothic Revival’s interior, I do wish I could have taken a look inside as it appeared to be quite lovely. This church dates back to 1875 and is the fourth church of the Baptist denomination to be founded in Charleston.
On King Street, named for King Charles II and known for its outstanding shopping, I found St. Matthew’s Lutheran Church. Built in 1872, its 297-foot steeple once made it the tallest building in South Carolina. Today, it is the tallest spire and one that I had seen from my hotel window. After only being able to see most of the churches that I had sought out only from the outside, I was thrilled to find St. Matthew’s open to visitors. The caretaker gave me a detailed history of the church, including the fire that destroyed much of the interior and the steeple, which crashed into King Street. Its original features include the carved pulpit and the stained glass windows in the apse and under the balcony.
Citadel Square Baptist, established in 1854, was the fourth Baptist church built in Charleston and is named after the church’s location across from Marion Square, the location of the Citadel at the time. It makes a beautiful site from the square with its flaxen hued exterior and lanky spire.
Redeemer Presbyterian Church is a relatively new church, started in 2005 on James Island. After deciding to relocate to the downtown area, this church assumed ownership of St. Andrew’s Lutheran Church, which dates back to 1853. Again, it was not open to the public, but I thought that it was a stately building created in the classical Greek revival style.
The last church I came upon was St. Johannes Lutheran Church. To be quite frank, it looked so much like the previous one. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, however, this church was established in 1842 by a constituency of 52 Lutherans who wanted to retain the German language in their services. In fact, German was spoken until 1910. I understand that the interior is quite beautiful, so I will have to do further investigation to find when the church might be open to visitors.
As the afternoon was coming to a close, I did a quick count…twelve churches. Wow! But wait, how many are there in the downtown area?
I read somewhere that there are over 400 places of worship of different denominations throughout the city. If this is the case, it truly is a Holy City.
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When I visit a cool city, I am always looking to find a souvenir that’s equally as cool as the city it comes from, that will bring to mind the great time that I had or add to one of my existing collections.
In Charleston, the place to go and find those mementos is the City Market, a historic market complex in the downtown area. Covering four city blocks, the market, established in the early 1800’s, is one of the oldest public markets in the nation and listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Since this awesome shopping arcade was located across the street from my hotel, I spent quite a bit of time wandering through the sheds and the Great Hall. There was no shortage of things to buy or eat and sometimes the whole experience was one of entertainment, watching the painters paint and jewelry makers craft their pieces. The basket weavers were of special interest to me as their pieces reminded me of the ones I have seen in Africa. This particular style, however, was originally made to winnow rice in the plantations. The sweetgrass basket tradition was passed down over time and now highly sought after as a piece of art from Charleston.
And if entertainment is what you seek, between the months of March and December, you can visit the Night Market on Friday and Saturday evenings where more than a hundred talented artists and craftsmen exhibit their wares amidst live entertainment.
City Market is home to more than 300 industrialists and is open every day of the year except December 25th. Keep in mind, however, that weekends are busier than weekdays and summer livelier than winter, where you might find a larger number of empty tables.
So if you find yourself in Charleston, enjoy being outdoors, love shopping for locally made items and appreciate meeting locals, this is your place! And when you are done with your shopping, take a climb to the top floor of the front of the market for a visit to the Confederate museum!
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Many years have passed since I last visited Charleston, South Carolina.
My memories of the southern city were vague, recollecting only that it had reminded me of New Orleans and my home state of Louisiana and that we had stayed in a hotel that was reported to be haunted!
When I had the opportunity to visit with my husband, who was in town for business, I decided that I would use every waking moment to re-discover everything that makes Charleston…Charleston!
Having already marked off the tourist-worthy points of interest on my map, I had planned to start my explorations bright and early the next morning. Being that it was already the later part of the afternoon, I headed out into the unseasonably warm temperatures intending to only take a walk before dinner.
Walking through the City Market, browsing a bit of the artistic fare displayed for sale, I made my way to the waterfront. Stopping to take in the tranquil view of the Charleston Harbor, I continued my stroll through Waterfront Park admiring the fountains and the old oaks towering above. Heading up to East Bay Street, I found myself at the Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon.
The Charleston landmark was completed in 1771 and is the site of some of the most important events in South Carolina’s history. Used as a Commercial Exchange, a Customs House, a Post Office, City Hall, Military Headquarters, it now operates as a museum. Once the property of both the British and United States governments, the Confederacy and the Charleston City government, it is now owned by the state of South Carolina and the Society of the Daughters of the American Revolution and is operated by the City of Charleston.
As it was the later part of the afternoon, with less than an hour available until closing, I made the quick decision to squeeze in one landmark. After paying my admission, I was instructed to head down to the bottom floor to catch the final tour of the day before squeezing in a visit to the remainder of the museum.
Our tour guide, dressed in Confederate period attire, escorted us through the bottom floor of the Exchange which was converted into a military prison known as the Provost or “dungeon”. Here, American prisoners of war, British soldiers, private citizens and enslaved people were kept here to endure the harsh conditions.
Though the dungeon no longer seems like such a scary place, with its full scale dioramas depicting life in the bowels of the building, I can only imagine the vast number of prisoners (and rats) crammed in this small space with its darkened interior and inhumane conditions. It was no wonder that the survival rate was scant.
With the tour completed, I headed upstairs to investigate the remainder of the institution admiring the Georgian-Palladian design of the building which was constructed from the finest materials and was once a symbol of the city’s worth.
The Old Exchange entertained President George Washington in 1791, events that were attended by hundreds of members of the Charleston aristocracy. It was also a meeting place for local Patriots and hosted South Carolina leaders as they debated and approved the U.S. Constitution. It is one of only four structures remaining where the nation’s founding document was originally ratified. The room of the Daughters of the American Revolution, located on the lower level, also displays a copy of the Declaration of Independence given to the Chapter in 1912 by Brig. General George Gordon Greenough, great nephew of Ann Harrod Adams, sister-in-law of John Quincy Adams. Despite these remarkable events in the nation’s history, there was also many darker notes, including the fact that it was a location often used for slave trading.
There are many artifacts displayed throughout the museum including a setup depicting the Old Post Office once located in the Old Exchange in the 1880’s.
As I walked through the upper floor, I wandered through the Colonel Isaac Haynes Room, dedicated to the patriot who fought in the Seige of Charleston in March 1780. He was hanged in 1781 in Charleston by British troops for espionage and treason.
One of the displays that stood out was of two paintings crafted to commemorate Washington’s visit to Charleston by John Trumbull. The original painting depicted Washington in 1777 prior to the Second Battle of Trenton. When the leaders rejected the painting, citing that Washington should have been painted as he was during his Charleston visit, Trumbull agreed to a second painting which showed Washington standing in nearby Mount Pleasant with the Charleston skyline visible in the background. Originally, the painting was displayed there in the Great Hall of the Old Exchange until City Hall was moved to is present location.
Quite an interesting start to my Charleston discovery…
Guess what I would be going in search of the next day?
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Address: 122 East Bay Street, Charleston, SC 29401
Hours: 0900-1700, daily. Closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. Tour times, 0900-1700 every day on the half hour.
Admission: Adults, $10.00, Children (7-12 years), $5.00, Children (under 7 years), free. Discounts are available for Senior/AARP, Military, Teachers, Students, Children, and groups of six people or more. The Old Exchange also offers discounted combination tickets with the Old Slave Mart Museum that provide access to both sites. Adults, $15.00, Senior/AARP, $11.00, Children (7-12), $8.00, Children (0-6), free
