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Many years have passed since I last visited Charleston, South Carolina.
My memories of the southern city were vague, recollecting only that it had reminded me of New Orleans and my home state of Louisiana and that we had stayed in a hotel that was reported to be haunted!
When I had the opportunity to visit with my husband, who was in town for business, I decided that I would use every waking moment to re-discover everything that makes Charleston…Charleston!
Having already marked off the tourist-worthy points of interest on my map, I had planned to start my explorations bright and early the next morning. Being that it was already the later part of the afternoon, I headed out into the unseasonably warm temperatures intending to only take a walk before dinner.
Walking through the City Market, browsing a bit of the artistic fare displayed for sale, I made my way to the waterfront. Stopping to take in the tranquil view of the Charleston Harbor, I continued my stroll through Waterfront Park admiring the fountains and the old oaks towering above. Heading up to East Bay Street, I found myself at the Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon.
The Charleston landmark was completed in 1771 and is the site of some of the most important events in South Carolina’s history. Used as a Commercial Exchange, a Customs House, a Post Office, City Hall, Military Headquarters, it now operates as a museum. Once the property of both the British and United States governments, the Confederacy and the Charleston City government, it is now owned by the state of South Carolina and the Society of the Daughters of the American Revolution and is operated by the City of Charleston.
As it was the later part of the afternoon, with less than an hour available until closing, I made the quick decision to squeeze in one landmark. After paying my admission, I was instructed to head down to the bottom floor to catch the final tour of the day before squeezing in a visit to the remainder of the museum.
Our tour guide, dressed in Confederate period attire, escorted us through the bottom floor of the Exchange which was converted into a military prison known as the Provost or “dungeon”. Here, American prisoners of war, British soldiers, private citizens and enslaved people were kept here to endure the harsh conditions.
Though the dungeon no longer seems like such a scary place, with its full scale dioramas depicting life in the bowels of the building, I can only imagine the vast number of prisoners (and rats) crammed in this small space with its darkened interior and inhumane conditions. It was no wonder that the survival rate was scant.
With the tour completed, I headed upstairs to investigate the remainder of the institution admiring the Georgian-Palladian design of the building which was constructed from the finest materials and was once a symbol of the city’s worth.
The Old Exchange entertained President George Washington in 1791, events that were attended by hundreds of members of the Charleston aristocracy. It was also a meeting place for local Patriots and hosted South Carolina leaders as they debated and approved the U.S. Constitution. It is one of only four structures remaining where the nation’s founding document was originally ratified. The room of the Daughters of the American Revolution, located on the lower level, also displays a copy of the Declaration of Independence given to the Chapter in 1912 by Brig. General George Gordon Greenough, great nephew of Ann Harrod Adams, sister-in-law of John Quincy Adams. Despite these remarkable events in the nation’s history, there was also many darker notes, including the fact that it was a location often used for slave trading.
There are many artifacts displayed throughout the museum including a setup depicting the Old Post Office once located in the Old Exchange in the 1880’s.
As I walked through the upper floor, I wandered through the Colonel Isaac Haynes Room, dedicated to the patriot who fought in the Seige of Charleston in March 1780. He was hanged in 1781 in Charleston by British troops for espionage and treason.
One of the displays that stood out was of two paintings crafted to commemorate Washington’s visit to Charleston by John Trumbull. The original painting depicted Washington in 1777 prior to the Second Battle of Trenton. When the leaders rejected the painting, citing that Washington should have been painted as he was during his Charleston visit, Trumbull agreed to a second painting which showed Washington standing in nearby Mount Pleasant with the Charleston skyline visible in the background. Originally, the painting was displayed there in the Great Hall of the Old Exchange until City Hall was moved to is present location.
Quite an interesting start to my Charleston discovery…
Guess what I would be going in search of the next day?
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The Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon
- http://www.oldexchange.org/
- Address: 122 East Bay Street, Charleston, SC 29401
- Hours: 0900-1700, daily. Closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. Tour times, 0900-1700 every day on the half hour.
- Admission: Adults, $10.00, Children (7-12 years), $5.00, Children (under 7 years), free. Discounts are available for Senior/AARP, Military, Teachers, Students, Children, and groups of six people or more. The Old Exchange also offers discounted combination tickets with the Old Slave Mart Museum that provide access to both sites. Adults, $15.00, Senior/AARP, $11.00, Children (7-12), $8.00, Children (0-6), free