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There are so many beautiful towns along the Rhine River in Germany. But how do you decide which one to visit?
You call a friend who is from there for suggestions!
So, after my friend, Annie, gave me a list of her favorites, I decided on the town of Bacharach. Only a few trains stops up the river, she described it as charming with a very German feel and consisting of an upper town with amazing views of the valley below and a small town beneath. At this time of year, there would not be many tourists…the most enticing bit of information!
After a long night of transatlantic travel, I was tired, but I decided to head right out to make the most of the shorter hours of the fall season.
It took a few minutes to figure out my train ticket and which platform I was leaving from at the Mainz train station, however, I was soon on my way. Forty-five minutes (and a short nap) later, I was exiting Bacharach’s small station and heading into the lower town along the river.
Walking along the main street, I found it to be extremely picturesque and quiet, which was both good and bad. Good that I did not have to fight for space along the small walkways and narrow streets, but bad that not a lot of the shops were open. Contenting myself with a bit of window shopping, I headed north towards the center of town, passing the Stadt Bacharach am Rhein, a city government office, and other buildings, all constructed in the traditional half-timbered style.
Kirch St. Peter in Bacharach, the town’s Catholic church, was open, however, I decided to bypass instead to make the ascent to the upper town first. Taking the stairs behind the church, I began the long climb, pausing every so often to take a breather and take in my surroundings. Views of the nearby hillsides offered ancient crumbling walls, old towers and lovely perspectives of the town below.
Eventually, along the long, steep staircase, I came upon the Ruine Wernerkapelle. The Werner Chapel was a major landmark in Bacharach and was erected after the murder of a boy called Werner. The fury over the murder resulted in riots and subsequently, the deaths of forty other people. In 1287, work began on the chapel to commemorate Werner’s memory and to offer a place of prayer for those making pilgrimages to his grave site. Sadly, the beautiful chapel was destroyed in the War of the Grand Alliance in 1689 and only the crumbling ruins remain.
Continuing my climb, the stairs transitioned from hard stone to packed earth, littered with fallen leaves and twigs causing me to carefully place my footing with each step. Breathing heavy and tired, I finally encountered a stone archway and a another set of steps leading to Burg Stahleck, the historic castle dating back to the 12th century. Now housing the Bacharach Youth Hostel, it consists of half-timbered houses, romantic courtyards, towers and a cozy wine bar with stunning views of the Rhine Valley.
After winding my way throughout the property, I headed to the small restaurant, grabbed a bottle of Bitburger beer and sat in the courtyard, watching the cruise boats navigate the river below. The beer was a much needed refreshment but after a night of little sleep, I had to fight the urge to have another lest I succumb to the longer sleep I desperately needed…plus, I still had much to see in the lower town!
Descending the seemingly never-ending staircase, I finally reached St. Peter’s church (est. 1230) once again. Thankfully finding it unlocked, I ventured inside, admiring the rich ornamentation and beautiful interior in the early French Gothic Style. While not as ostentatious as those in Italy or Central and South America, what I admired most was the beautiful organ and the brightly colored capitals on the columns.
Heading west behind the church, but still in the lower town, I found myself strolling along small pathways next to a narrow waterway. Admiring the flowers that grew along the trail and the beautiful old homes, I finally found the Steeger Tor, the wooden tower built in the 14th century at the western corner of the city’s fortifications. The Steeger Tor has retained its original roof and is constructed in the half-timbered style seen throughout the city. Covering the Blücherstraße, cars are still allowed to transit through its open base.
After a string of cars had passed, I carefully walked though the opening and then made my way up to the hillside planted with rows of grapevines winding their way along the wired supports. A dusty path led me to the Postenturm, which once acted as a defense tower in the northern wall of the town and was restored as a water reservoir in 1899. Now solely an observation tower, the slate quarry stone spire allows visitors to climb to its head for incredible views of the upper and lower towns and the surrounding countryside.
After my visit, I continued back down the hillside and encountered a cute grey cat who jumped down from its perch to lead me to the way back to the lower town. Wandering the small cobblestone streets, I discovered many interesting sights…an alleyway filled with umbrellas, the Virgin Mary tucked behind a small arched window, a wishing well and a garden of zebras…before finding the Münzturm.
The Münzturm, an historic tower, is well known throughout the region as the location that Swedish troops entered to invade the city during the Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648). Built in the 14th century, it is also known as the Mint Tower or the Coin Tower because of its location near the Palatinate mint on Oberstrasße. As with the Steeg Tor, cars can utilize the narrow opening at the bottom to enter the city and a staircase on the southern side leads to the city wall. Still in use today, the upper floors serve as a guild tower, archive and meeting room for the Wine Guild Bacchus Zechgesellschaft zu Bacharach und Steeg von 1328.
While my plan had been to have a bite to eat at the medieval, half-timber Altes Haus, I discovered that it did not open on this particular day until 6:00 p.m. Not wanting to return to Mainz in the late evening, I decided to take a few photos of the place that was immortalized by Rhine poets and the setting of many films. This famous restaurant was built in 1586 but an inscription on the house states that its beginnings date back to 1368.
Continuing on with my explorations, I headed back toward St. Peter’s Church, taking a left on Marktstraße. Here, I discovered yet another historic tower, the Marktturm.
This tower was well known for the annual Bacharach wine market that took place between the tower and the church during the 15th and 18th centuries. During the 18th century, it also functioned as a prison, during the 19th century, it housed the community bell and in the 20th, a wine tavern. Escaping damage during World War II, it was restored in 1910 and today it is used as a private residence. Part of one of the best preserved city fortifications in the Rhine Valley, you can also access the city wall from a staircase on the left-hand side.
Passing beneath the Marktturn, I headed to the pathway outside the city walls for a different perspective. While I did not walk along the immediate river front, I could see numerous boats traversing the waters and a couple parked at the river’s edge. I knew there were boats that could take me all the way back to Mainz, but I was not sure of the schedule or the embarkation and disembarkation points. Instead, I walked along, passing the Church of St. Nikolaus and the Customs House while making my way back to the train station. What I later learned was that it has been said that once upon a time, kings from around the world would only drink Bacharach wine. Being a major player in the wine industry, the sales and the collected customs duties, in this exact building, made Bacharach an extremely wealthy town.
While there are many beautiful towns throughout this region, Bacharach is definitely one that warrants the effort for those desiring to be transported back many centuries. Definitely not a large city, but I would still say that Bacharach is still a rich one. Rich in its history and rich in that it is one of Germany’s true treasures in the Rhine Valley.
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Burg Stahleck
- https://www.diejugendherbergen.de/jugendherbergen/bacharach/
- Address: Oberstraße
- 1, 55422, Bacharach, Germany
- Hours: Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday, 0930-1200, Closed Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday
- Admission: not open to the public
Kirch St. Peter in Bacharach-Evanglische Kirchengemeinde Vierthaler
- https://www.bacharach.de/a-ev-kirche-st-peter
- http://www.bacharach.de/german/code/stadtrundgang/pg7.html
- Address: Blücherstraße 1, 55422 Bacharach, Germany
- Hours: unknown
- Admission: free
Ruine Wernerkapelle
- https://www.romantischer-rhein.de/en/a-wernerkapelle
- Address: 55422 Bacharach, Germany
- Hours: 0900-1800
- Admission: free
Steeger Tor
- https://www.bacharach.de/a-holzmarktturm-steeger-tor
- Address: Holzmarktturm, Blücherstraße, 55422 Bacharach
- Hours: 24 hours, daily
- Admission: free
Postenturm
- https://www.bacharach.de/en/a-postenturm
- Address: Postenturm, 55422 Bacharach, Germany
- Hours: 24 hours, daily
- Admission: free
Münzturm
- https://www.bacharach.de/en/a-muenzturm
- Address: 55422, Auf d. Munze, 55422, Bacharach, Germany
- Hours: 24 hours, daily
- Admission: free
Altes Haus
- https://www.facebook.com/alteshausbacharach/?rf=108299185928746
- Address: Oberstrasße 61, 55422, Bacharach, Germany
- Hours: Thursday, Friday, Monday, 1800-2300, Saturday and Sunday, 1230-2300, Closed Tuesday and Wednesday.
- Admission: free, prices vary per order
Marktturm
- https://www.regionalgeschichte.net/mittelrhein/bacharach/kulturdenkmaeler/stadtbefestigung.html
- Address: Markstrasse 1, 55422, Bacharach, Germany
- Hours: 24 hours, daily
- Admission: free
A restaurant is located here on the promenade and wine vendors offer Portuguese samplings to quench your thirst in the hot, sunny afternoons.
Making our way into the interior of the structure, we marveled at the towering walls and walked along the ramparts admiring both the views and the wind whipping the country’s flags.
Ruins of older structures and a cistern were visible in the courtyard as well as a small door on the northern wall called the Door of Treason which allowed secret messengers to enter or exit as needed. Take a moment to have a seat in one of the garden areas and admire the many pieces of sculptures that adorn the premises. The gardens of Castelo de St. Jorge is a place to be cherished as it is one of the only remaining green spaces in Lisbon where native species of the Portuguese forest hold court. Here, visitors can observe trees such as cork oaks, carobs, strawberry, umbrella pines and various fruit trees.
While there are other, more beautiful and more preserved castles throughout the country, Castelo de St. Jorge is easy to reach and is rich in history. More importantly, with its prominent location high above the city, it is the perfect place to start your exploration of the Portuguese capital.
Taking in the beautiful countryside scenery, you will soon find yourself encountering the ruins of Rosslyn Castle, a sharp contrast to the well-preserved chapel that we had just visited.
A French influenced two story home stands to the left of the courtyard, also built by William Sinclair, when he extended the castle between 1582 and 1597. Though the home is still in good condition, it is not accessible to the public.
As we descended a path near the start of the bridge, we walked beneath the remaining castle walls toward the river’s edge. Here, gardens once prospered and provided food for those who resided in the castle. The river gurgled and wound its way through the forest and we walked over the footbridge to take a closer look. We learned later that there is a scenic river walk from the ruins of the Roslin Gunpowder Mills, through what used to be a carpet factory and cottages, across the North Esk, around the castle, below the chapel via Gardener’s Brae and to Hawthornden and beyond.
Taking the short walk on our return back to the bus stop, we stopped for a few moments to pay our respect at the Rosslyn Cemetery.
While out at Rosslyn Chapel, make time to explore the forgotten ruin, an important part of Scotland’s and the Sinclair family history.
Setting out on the highway, we first passed Stirling Castle and the William Wallace Monument standing tall on the nearby summit of Abbey Craig. On the right, our tour guide pointed out the Kelpies, 30-meter high horse-head sculptures near the River Carron.
Onward we traveled to the next destination, Inveraray, home of a beautiful castle on the shores of Loch Fyne. Although the tour brochure stated that we would visit the town of Inveraray for Highland souvenirs, we only stopped near a bridge so that we could photograph Inveraray Castle.
Although the castle’s origins as a residence date back to the 12th century, with the reign of David I, Edinburgh Castle only retained a residential role until the 15th century, later transitioning into military barracks and garrison. It was considered one of the most important strongholds in the Kingdom of Scotland and was involved in many historical conflicts. Recent research identified 26 sieges in the castle’s 1100 year old history.
The castle offers many different buildings, museums and vantage points. We began our exploration by climbing the Lang Stairs to the Argyle Tower. Not much to see within the tower, we moved on to Mon’s Meg, the Dog Cemetery and St. Margaret’s Cathedral.
Adjacent to the cemetery overlook is Mon’s Meg, a medieval bombard and one of the largest cannons in the world (by caliber). This cannon was built in 1449 as a gift to James II, King of Scots from Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy. It was used in many sieges until the 16th century and spent some time in the Tower of London until it was returned in 1829.
Moving into St. Margaret’s Chapel, we found it blissfully empty. With a surface area of only 160 square feet, it was nice not having to jockey for position with other tourists to capture nice photos and enjoy the beauty of the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh. The 12th century chapel, was spared the wrath of Robert the Bruce when the castle was captured on March 14, 1314 and all buildings in the castle were destroyed. The chapel, restored and now cared for by the St. Margaret’s Chapel Guild is well worth a short visit, especially for the five stained glass windows of St. Margaret of Scotland, St. Andrew, St. Columbia, St. Ninian and William Wallace, all designed by Douglas Strachan in 1922.
To the Great Hall’s south, is the Scottish National War Memorial, which occupies a converted barrack block and stands on the site of the Medieval St. Mary’s Church. When entering the building, pay note to the gargoyles and sculpture that decorate the exterior. The interior is a long massive space, with a high vaulted ceiling, stained glass windows (designed by Douglas Strachan) and monuments commemorating Scottish soldiers; those who served with the Scottish regiments and those who died in the two world wars and in recent conflicts. On an altar within the Shrine (placed on the highest point of the Castle Rock) rests a sealed casket containing Rolls of Honour which list over 147,000 names of those soldiers killed in the First World War. Another 50,000 names were inscribed on Rolls of Honour and line the walls of the main hall. No pictures are allowed within the building.
The Royal Scots Dragoon Guards Regimental Museum features a large offering of weapons, uniforms, medals and paintings which portray the story of the past regiments that formed or were associated with the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards, including 3rd Dragoons Guards (Prince of Wale’s Own), 6th Dragoon Guards (The Carabiniers), 3rd Carabiniers (Prince of Wale’s Dragoon Guards), the Royal Scots Greys (2nd Dragoons) and 25th Dragoons.
After leaving these two museums, we walked past the Governor’s House and turned left to the entrance of National War Museum. The story of Scotland at war is told here along with the story of the battles that were lost and won. Many military artifacts and personal treasures are on display. Again, this museum is free with your entrance ticket to the castle and is worth a look around. By this point in the day, however, we were getting a bit tired of the museum setting and hungry, so we made it a quick visit.
