czech republic – Snapping The Globe

Happy Hours

The city of Prague has some of the most unique and beautiful architecture in the world.

Standing atop Petrin Hill and looking over the city, it is sometimes hard to explain how everywhere you cast your glance, there is a picture. I’ve been to many cities in Europe and yet, this is the one that always takes my breath away.

Behind Petrin Hill you can observe the elegant spires of a basilica, of the Basilica of Our Lady. Though I love churches (and this one was not open while I was visiting), it was not what I was here to see.

Prague’s Strahov Monastery, is one of the oldest Premonstratensian monasteries, (founded in 1140), still in existence in the world and it was just around the corner from my hotel. Heading there for its re-opening after lunch, I paid my admission for both the Library and the Gallery as well as for permission to take photos. Many of Prague’s historical buildings charge to take photos, without flash (of course), and in order to not get a stern warning and risk being asked to leave, I’ve learned that it is best to pay for permission if you want to capture the beauty of these building’s interiors.

The Library is beyond description. The two halls, the Theological Hall and the Philosophical Hall are filled with over 200,000 volumes and is one of the most valuable and best preserved historical collections in the world. Though you cannot actually enter each of the rooms, you are allowed to observe from the doorways, a bit difficult when its crowded or when someone does not understand that they’ve taken enough photos and they need to make way for others. The Theological Hall, designed by Abbot Jeroným Hirnhaim, is the older of the two and was established between 1671 and 1674, while the Philosophical Hall dates from 1794. Both halls are two-stories high with ceiling frescoes painted by Siard Nosecký and Anton Maulbertsch.

The Philosophical Hall was built under the direction of Abbot Václav Mayer and contains more than 42,000 volumes covering topics such as philosophy, astronomy, mathematics, history and philology, while the Theological Hall’s 18,000+ volumes contain numerous editions of the Bible, many in different languages. In the foyer area, you can inspect some of these bibles, displayed in protective cases.

The foyer also contains a large collection of curiosities from the estate of Karel Jan Erban, dating back to 1798. In large display cabinets, you can observe sea fauna, collections of insects, minerals, wax replicas of fruit, archaeological collections, ceramics, handcuff and Hussite peasant weapons. The most interesting artifact, however, is the remains of the now extinct Dodo bird.

Though there are many notable buildings within the complex including the Basilica, the Abbey Building, the Convent, the Great Monastery Restaurant and the Strahov Monastery Brewery, the only other part that was open to the public (and did not involve beer) was the Strahov Gallery.

Heading over to the Strahov Gallery, I was pleased to find that it was more than just a picture gallery. While the gallery contains a large collection (more than 1500 pieces) of Gothic, Baroque, Rococo painting and Rudolfian art, there were other halls and exhibits throughout the structure.

One of the first exhibits, located in the Romanesque Hall (the monastery’s former food storerooms) detail the origins of the Strahov monastery, including a to-scale model of the monastery, photographs and a cycle of paintings of the scenes of St. Norbert, the founder of the Premonstratensian Order. There are also artifacts used during the celebrations on the occasion of the transfer of his relics to Prague.

The Summer Refectory (dining hall) dates back to 1691 and was designed by the Burgundian architect Jean Batista Mathey. Here, my attention was drawn upward to the ceiling which is covered with an amazing fresco entitled “Heavenly Banquet of the Just with Christ as the Host” by Siard Nosecký. As my attention was then cast down, I was able to admire the series of portraits with ten important figures from the monastery.

The nearby Chapter Hall also displayed a beautifully, frescoed ceiling, precious paintings and works of art including an ornate gilded altar. This important room was restored in 1990 to its original appearance and is where new members join the order.

Finally, as the gallery neared its closing hour, I headed to the exposition displaying liturgical works of arts, many of Czech descent, but others from different areas of Europe and the actual picture gallery.

Walking to the exit along the hallways, there were many exquisite statues and wide windows offering a peek at the buildings serene courtyard.

A visit to the monastery is on the shortlist of things to do while in Prague, but if I could make a recommendation, it would be to visit during the afternoon hours. Once finished, you can enjoy some of the monastery’s tasty brews and have a bite to eat while looking out on one of Europe’s most picturesque cities!

An afternoon of history, culture, views, food and, of course, DRINK, this is what I call my Happy Hours!

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Strahov Monastery

https://www.strahovskyklaster.cz/en/
Address: Strahovské nádvoří 1/132, 118 00 Praha 1
Hours: 0900-1200, 1300-1700, daily
Admission: Strahov Library, Adults, CZK 150 (about $6.60 US), Reduced, 80 CZK (about $3.52 US), Family (2 adults + max 3 children under 15 years), 300 CZK (about $13,20 US) , Photo Permission, 50 CZK (about $2.20 US) . Strahov Gallery (open only until 1600), Adults, 280 CZK (about $12.30 US) , Reduced, 140 CZK (about $6.16 US) , Family (2 adults + max 3 children under 15 years), 500 CZK (about $22.00 US) . Photo Permission, 80 CZK (about $3.52 US) . Children under 6 years, Holders of cards for handicapped persons, members of religious orders and congregations, teachers accompanying students, free. Children over 6 years and students up to 27 years, reduced admission.
Getting There: By Metro Malostranska (line A). Then tram 22 or 23 to Pohorelec. Scenic route, take the funicular, go to tram stop Ujezd (trams 9,12,15,20,22,23). Take the funicular railway to the top of Petrin Hill and walk 10 minutes along Strahovska street. By car, parking is free of charge at the Brusnice stop on Kepler Street.

Infant Jesus of Prague

There’s something I like about little statues that have their own wardrobes.

Mannekin Pis ring a bell?

But, have you ever heard of the Infant Child of Prague?

Located in the Discalced Carmelite Church of Our Lady Victorious in Prague, the Infant Child is a nineteen-inch, 16th century, Roman Catholic, wax-coated wooden statue of the infant Jesus holding a cross-bearing orb.

Having read about this interesting statue, I was determined to find its home to see what this was all about. Crossing the Vltava river, we made our way in the general direction of the church. After a few wrong turns and consultations of the map, we soon found our way.

The 17th century church, was filled with tourists jockeying for position to see the Infant Jesus. Located on the epistle side of the church, the statue is presented on its own gold altar, built in 1641, and its lower half is enclosed in a silver case.

In the past, many saints, including St. Teresa of Avila, St. Francis of Assisi and St. Anthony of Padua have had a profound devotion to the Divine Child. In fact, some believe that the statue, which resides in Our Lady of Victorious, once belonged to St. Teresa of Avila, though its exact origins are not known.

Historical sources point to a nineteen-inch sculpture of the Holy Child with a bird in his right hand as the original Infant Child of Prague. Located in the Spanish monastery of Santa Maria de la Valbonna in Asturias, it was carved in 1340. Other sculptures were carved by famous masters during the Middle Ages and were dressed in the aristocratic fashion of the time period. It is believed, however, that the current statue was a gift from Lady Polyxena to the Carmelites who said upon presenting the figurine, “I am giving you what I most esteem of my possessions. Keep the sculpture in reference and you will be well off”. Since that time, many claims of blessing favors and miraculous healings have been attributed to those who petition the Infant Jesus.

The statue of the Infant Jesus is quite ornate, studded with diamonds and crowned with gold. The orb he holds in is left hand symbolizes kingship and his right hand is raised with the palm in a blessing posture. Since 1788, the statue’s raised two fingers have donned two rings, gifts of thanksgiving from a noble Czech family for the healing of their daughter. The family also gifted a wig of blond hair.

The statue’s clothes are routinely changed by the Carmelite sisters of the church, especially during the Christmas season and the first Sunday of May every year on a day of feasts of coronation and public procession. As we walked towards the altar of the church, on the right, we noticed a spiral stairway with people ascending. Curious, we followed the crowd and discovered a small museum highlighting much of the Infant Jesus’ wardrobe.

Though my companion was a little disturbed by the fact that such devotion is given to what he only considers a doll, I was fascinated by the history of this icon. When in Prague’s Malá Strana district, take a moment of your time, and visit the Infant Jesus of Prague. Or better yet, try to be there during the coronation celebration held every year on the first Sunday in May. The Infant Jesus is displayed in the presbytery on Saturday and Sunday. On Saturday, after evening mass, a procession is held with a copy of the statue. The main pilgrimage mass with the coronation of the statue is celebrated at ten o’clock on Sunday.

For true believers, a novena prayer can be said to petition the Infant Jesus.

Novena to the Infant Jesus of Prague in Urgent Need

(To be said for nine days or nine consecutive hours)

O Jesus, who said, “Ask and you shall receive, seek and you shall find, knock and it shall be opened to you,” through the intercession of Mary, Your most holy Mother, I knock, I seek, I ask that my prayer be answered. (Mention your request)

O Jesus, who said, “All that you ask of the Father in My Name He will grant you, “through the intercession of Mary, Your most holy Mother, I humbly and urgently ask Your Father in Your Name that my prayer be granted. (Mention your request)

O Jesus, Who said, “Heaven and earth will pass away, but My word shall not pass,” through the intercession of Mary, Your most holy Mother, I fee confident that my prayer will be granted. (Mention your request)

Amen.

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Church of Our Lady Victorious

https://www.pragjesu.cz/
Address: Karmelitska 385/9 | Monastery of the Infant Jesus of Prague, Prague 118 00, Czech Republic
Hours: Church, 0830-1900, daily. Museum, Monday-Saturday, 0930-1700, Sunday, 1300-1800. Souvenir Shop, 0930-1730, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Tram 12, 15, 20, 22, 23, stop Hellichova

Visit Vyšehrad!

Yes, there is another castle in Prague…well, sort of.

Situated on a rocky bluff overlooking the Vltava River, Vyšehrad, or “The Castle on the Heights”, was established in the mid 10th century and according to local legends, the oldest seat of Bohemian rulers and was probably the location of the first settlement which later became Prague.

After the Prague Castle’s origins, the deteriorating castle of Vyšehrad was abandoned as a royal home. After renovations by Charles IV, new fortifications with two gates and a royal palace were added to the complex. Later, however, after the Hussite Wars, the castle was abandoned and fell into ruin. Renovations during the 17th century established it as a Baroque fortress, a training center for the Austrian Army and later incorporated the fort into the Baroque city walls around Prague.

Today, Vysehrad is a place of recreation as well as history. Czech citizens visit the grounds, which have now become a public park, for amusement, relaxation and celebration. Tourists visit to see the many architectural treasures on the site.

There are four gates located in the complex. The Brick Gate (Cihelná brána), built in the Empire style in 1841, is made up of a passageway and two pedestrian passages flanked by two guard rooms. The 17th century Tabor Gate, which was our entry point and the main entrance was built by King Charles IV and leads to the 17th century Leopold Gate. You can also find the remains of the Špička Gate.

Walking through the peaceful grounds, we admired the sculpture that graced the premises as well as the breathtaking views along the ramparts overlooking the Vltava River.

Marveling over the Rotunda of St. Martin, it was astonishing that this rare, Romanesque building still stands strong today. Built in the 11th century, it is one of Prague’s oldest surviving buildings. Used for gunpowder storage during the Thirty Years’ War, it is now used for religious purposes. When admiring this ancient edifice, be sure to seek out the cannonball from the Prussian rampage in 1758, which is embedded in the facade to the right of the window.

The neo-Gothic Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul was a landmark that I would love to have visited, however, a wedding was being held during the time we were there and we were not admitted into the church. The basilica, founded in 1070-1080 and later rebuilt after a devastating fire, features an impressive stone mosaic above the entry and twin spires that can be seen from many locations throughout Prague.

Behind the church is the Vyšehrad cemetery, the final resting place of many famous Czechs, including author Karel Capek, composers Antonín Dvorák and Bedřich Smetana and artist Alphonse Mucha as well as many other scribes and politicians.

To the right of the basilica, check out the huge statues, designed by Josef Mysbek, which depict figures of Czech Mythology. The four statues show an allegorical couple, “Lumír and Piseň” (singer and muse), “Ctirad and Šárka” (temptress who lured him to his death in the 7th century War of the Maidens), “Záboj and Slavoj” (warriors who fought off a Frankish incursion in the 9th century) and ” Libuše and Přemysl” (mythical founders of Prague).

In order to explore all of Vyšehrad, you’ll need a few hours and it helps to have a beautiful day! Bring a picnic or indulge at one of the cafés, and don’t forget to spend some time looking out over the river and the city views…sunset can be quite impressive! But, no matter what time of day you visit…just do!

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Vyšehrad

http://www.praha-vysehrad.cz/
Address: National Heritage Site Vyšehrad, V Pevnosti 159 / 5b, Praha 2 128 00
Hours: Exhibition, January-March, November-December, 0930-1700, April-October, 0930-1800
Admission: free
Basilica of Sts. Peter and Paul, April-October: Daily 1000-1800, November-March: Daily 1000-1700
Getting There: Metro line C, stop Vyšehrad. Tram lines 7, 14, 18, 24, 53, 55, stop Albertov. Tram line 2, 3, 7, 17, 21, 52, stop Výtoň. Parking in the Vysehrad area is possible only at the designated places between Leopoldova and Táborská brana.

Cruising Czech-Style

Visiting many sights throughout Prague, you can’t help but cross or walk near the Vltava River. The Vltava is the longest river within the country which runs southeast along the Bohemian Forest and then north across Bohemia, through Český Krumlov, České Budějovice and Prague. It eventually merges with the Elbe river at Melnik and is commonly referred to as the Czech national river.

After spending the day at Karlstejn Castle and our quick trip to the Jerusalem Synagogue, we still had many hours of sunlight left in the day. Quickly stopping at our hotel to freshen up, we then headed north and made our way along the river near the Štefánikův Bridge where the boat companies depart for many different lunch, dinner and sightseeing cruises.

Deciding on Czech Boats, we opted for their one-hour cruise, purchased our tickets and waited for our boat, the Maria.

Soon we were on our way, beers in hand (purchased at the boat’s bar), basking in the sun on the upper deck.

The boat makes its way along the river towards the magnificent Charles Bridge, which it passes under and then turns around for its return voyage. There are many beautiful buildings that line the river and you will be able to get a great view of the Prague Castle.

If you desire more time on the river, there are a multitude of options including lunch, dinner, dessert and jazz cruises. Although the one we selected was not a very long cruise, the one-hour option gives you an great overview of many of the city’s landmarks.

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Czech Boats

http://www.czechboats.cz/
Address: Dvorakovo embankment, pier no. 17 (next to Stefanikuv bridge)
Hours: One hour tours, 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 16:00, 17:00
Price: Adults, 220 CZK, Children (3-12 years) 110 CZK

Karlstejn Castle

Last fall, I made the trip to Karlstejn Castle (see Straight From a Fairy Tale, October 2015), the most visited castle in the Czech Republic. Built by Czech king and Roman Emperor Charles IV, it was established as a place to store the royal treasures, collections of holy relics and the crown jewel.

Located in the town of Karlstejn, it makes for a wonderful day trip and is an impressive piece of architecture.

My son loves history and I knew that he would love taking the train, walking through the quaint village and visiting the castle. Not much has changed since my last visit, except that it was much warmer and there were many more tourists.

The Basic Tour of the Private and Representative Halls of the Holy Roman Emperor is still the only one available for walk up guests. The Sacred/Holy Area including the Chapel of the Holy Cross tour must be booked in advance.

Since I had done the Basic Tour, I was a bit disappointed that I could not take the other, however, this time was a bit different. First, our tour guide spoke much better English than the tour guide on our previous trip, so, I was able to absorb more details of the castle’s history. The other thing that changed from before were the rules concerning photography…pictures are now allowed within the castle, on the tour. A welcome change, I was excited not to have to sneak photos when the tour guide was not looking!

Definitely, a must-do on a trip to the Czech Republic, I recommend leaving early from Prague in order to beat the crowds, especially during the busy summer months. Make sure you walk the grounds within the castle’s walls and visit the Clock and Bell Tower and the Well, all included with your tour admission.

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Karlstejn Castle

https://www.hradkarlstejn.cz/en
Address: Karlštejn 172, 267 18 Karlštejn
Hours: Jan 9-Feb 29, closed, March, 0930-1600, April- June, 0930-1700, (Tue-Sun), July 1-August 31, 0900-1830 (Mon-Sun), September, 0930-1730 (Tue-Sun), October, 0930-1630 (Tue-Sun), Nov 1- Nov 13, 1000-1500 (Tue-Sun), Nov 14-Dec 23, 1000-1500 (Sat-Sun), Dec 24-25, closed, Dec 26-Jan 8, 1000-1500 (Mon, Tue-Sun)
Admission: Adults 270 CZK, Students (ages 6-26) and Seniors (over 65), 180 CZK, Family Ticket (2 Adults + 4 Children max) 860 CZK
Getting There: Departures are from the main station, Hlavní nádraží or Smíchov stations, usually about every 30 minutes in the direction of Beroun.

Baroque and Beautiful

“I am a sucker for a beautiful church.”

Anyone who has read through my blog, knows this statement to be entirely true. Actually, I love all religious institutions, for their differences in ornamentation, their unique history and for the many beliefs and people that they represent. I love basilicas, chapels, cathedrals, synagogues, temples, mosques and pagodas. When I see a church, I want to see the interior…what makes it different from others that I have visited? Does it have a saint interred there? Relics on display? Beautiful stained glass? Paintings by a famed artist? Maybe this has a lot to do with the fact that I studied architecture in college…or maybe it has to do with my love of photography and all of the beautiful photographic opportunities each building offers…maybe it has to do with the fact that entry into most institutions is free and therefore, easy on the touristy pocketbook!

The Church of St. Nicholas, the most famous Baroque church in Prague, is located in the center of the Lesser Town Square. Not to be confused with the other two St. Nicholas churches in Prague, one of which is located in Old Town Square, it is a most prominent and distinctive landmark with it’s green dome is visible from all over the city. I have walked by it countless times, but usually in transit to another destination with no extra time to stop and visit.

Upon entering the Church of St. Nicholas, we found that this particular institution does charge an admission fee for entry, unlike many others, however, at a cost of 70 CZK (about $3.00 U.S.) it’s not an extremely hefty one. Still, I do not agree with paying to see the inside of a church that has an active congregation. Paying a few dollars to see the inside of a well renowned landmark will not kill me, but hey, free is free!

After stepping away from the ticket counter and preparing my camera, we began making our way into the church. I think I held my breath a little in anticipation of what we would find as we stepped inside. And there it was! Worth the 70 CZK admission? You bet!

The construction of the Church of St. Nicholas began in 1703, lasted approximately one hundred years and employed three generations of great Baroque architects…father, son and son-in-law…Kryštof Dientzenhofer, Kilián Ignác Dientzenhofer and Anselmo Lurago. It was used by the Russian orthodox congregation from 1870-1914, used as a warehouse and housed a garrison at one time.

When entering, your eyes venture upward toward the ceiling and the 70 meter high dome which is decorated with a magnificent fresco of the Celebration of the Holy Trinity by Franz Palko. Other frescos by Jan Lukas Kracker are also worth closer inspection. After heading upstairs, you have a closer view of the grand ceiling fresco and the nave from the viewing gallery that runs along the left side of the church.

The interior is richly decorated with sculptures by František Ignác Platzer, many paintings and the side chapels abundantly adorned in gold.

The main organ, with a beautiful fresco of St. Cecilia, patron saint of music, above it, was built from 1745-1747. It has over 4,000 pipes up to six meters in length and was most famously played by Mozart during his stay in Prague in 1787.

The belfry was the last part of St. Nicholas to be built and was constructed by Anselmo Lurago from 1751-1756, though designed by his father in law. As high as the church’s adjacent dome, it does not actually belong to the church but rather the Lesser Town. Interestingly, the tower was used during the 1960’s by the state police to spy on the western countries embassies nearby. This I learned, was something interesting to see, despite the additional climb, but it wasn’t until after our visit that we learned that it was included in our admission. (Nor did we ever see the entrance) Reading up on the church’s history after our trip, I discovered that visitors are allowed to ascend the tower’s 215 steps, during the day, to experience the splendid views over Malá Strana and across the Vltava River to the Old Town.

The Church of St. Nicholas is not to be missed in Prague, the Czech Republic or even Europe. One to rival anything that I have visited previously, it is worth the price of admission..maybe even a bit more. Allow plenty of time to explore the church in it’s entirety…just don’t miss the tower! I’ve already put aside my 70 CZK so that I can stop in and check it out on my next visit!

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St. Nicholas Church

http://www.stnicholas.cz/
Address: St. Nicholas Church Lesser Town Square, Lesser Town Square, Lesser Town, Prague 1, Czech Republic
Hours: March-October, 0900-1700, daily, November-February, 0900-1600, daily
Admission: Adults, 70 CZK, Students (10-26 years), 50 CZK, Children (under 10), free
How To Get There: Tram stop, Malostranske namesti (trams 12, 20, 22)

Czech-ing Out the Sights

Walking through the city of Prague, it is easy to be dumbfounded by its beauty. I have always been almost breathless looking out over the red rooftops and the amazing architecture at every corner, not knowing quite where to point my camera first.

There are many things to see and do while touring the city. During my visit with my son, I was anxious to show him some of the quaint attractions that I have grown to love in the city.

Exiting the Prague Castle’s main entrance, we walked through the Castle District (Hradcany) down to the west side of the Charles Bridge. The first thing on our agenda was the John Lennon Wall.

Once a regular wall, young Czechs decided to make it their slate for recording grievances during the communist regime of Gustáv Husák. Eventually, this led to a clash between hundreds of students and police on the nearby Charles Bridge. The movement these students followed was described ironically as “Lennonism”.

John Lennon, a hero to the youth, produced songs that praised freedom that did not exist in the communistic country. Western pop songs were banned by Communist authorities and some musicians were jailed for playing them. When Lennon was murdered in 1980, his picture was painted on the wall with graffiti defying the authorities. The threat of prison didn’t stop people from sneaking to the location during the dark of night to inscribe graffiti in the form of Beatles lyrics and odes to Lennon. Eventually, they returned to write their own feelings and dreams on the wall.

The original portrait of Lennon remains, but buried under many layers of new paint. At one time, the wall was repainted by authorities, but after a day passed, it was full of poems and flowers. On November 17, 2014, on the 25th anniversary of the Velvet Revolution, the wall was painted over completely with white paint by a group of art students, leaving only the text, “wall is over” a play on Lennon’s song, “War is Over”. Today, the wall, owned by the Knights of Malta, changes constantly. On the day that we were there, people were selling paint and paintbrushes. Many young tourists were busy decorating portions of the wall between the dozens of other tourists posing for pictures.

After a couple of quick pics, we moved on. Our next quick stop was at the Kampa waterwheel near the Lennon Wall. Always a favorite of mine, I love to stop here and watch the wheel turn in the Certovka river across from a small restaurant, Velkoprevorsky Mlyn. The restaurant has always been a source of fascination for me with its romantic small balcony hanging out over the river and two small tables. On impulse, I ran into the restaurant and made a reservation for the following night for my son and I, something I have always desired to do.

We were now getting a bit hungry…it was time for a snack…Trdelník. The sweet pastry, made from rolled dough, wrapped around a stick and grilled, then topped with sugar and walnut mix, is something anyone visiting Prague should have…at least once! There is a great little place on the end of the right side of the Charles Bridge in the Lesser Town. You can watch the skilled craftsmen roll the dough, wrap it around the round metal forms and bake it on the rotating rollers.

While devouring our Trdelnik, we ducked under the bridge and inspected the many “locks of love” that hang from the gates that line the canal. These locks are padlocks which couples secure to a public object, most often a bridge, to symbolize their love. Once the lock is fastened, the key is thrown away into the body of water to symbolize their unbreakable love. Though not as plentiful as what can be found on the Pont des Arts Bridge in Paris, there are many here and it has become quite a problem, as in other cities, as it damages the structure to which it is fastened.

As we continued our journey through the city, we stopped every so often to admire the many street performers that secure prime spots on street corners and in the Old Town Square. While everyone loves a good musician, there were some interesting acts that were quite mesmerizing. I have to admit, it took me a while to understand the floating man!

Later that evening, we headed toward one of my favorite spots to have a drink…the rooftop terrace at the U Prince hotel. When you enter the U Prince hotel, inform the hostess that you would like to go up to the terrace and she will direct you to the elevator. After exiting the elevator, a few more steps will lead you to another hostess who will seat you at the Terasa U Prince. Expect higher prices than other eateries or bars, but it is most definitely a trade off for the beautiful view of Old Town!

Finally, to cap off the evening, we grabbed some gelato right outside of the U Prince and decided to watch the Astronomical Clock put on its hourly show one more time! A great way to end a busy but wonderful day!

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Lennon Wall

Address: Velkopřevorské náměstí, 100 00 Praha 1, Czech Republic
Admission: Free
Hours: Open continually
How to Get There: From metro station Malostranska (green line A) take trams no. 12, 20, 22, 23. The nearest tram stops to Velkoprevorske namesti are either Malostranske namesti or Hellichova.

Velkoprevorsky Mlyn Restaurant

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Velkop%C5%99evorsk%C3%BD-Ml%C3%BDn/143838909015104
Address: Hroznová 489/3, 118 00 Praha, Czech Republic

Terasa U Prince

https://www.terasauprince.com/terrace
Address: Terasa U Prince, Staroměstské náměstí 29, Praha 1, 110 00, Czech Republic
Hours: 1100-2330, daily
How To Get There: Old Town, walking from center of square, past the Astrological Clock (on right) towards the river, the Hotel U Prince is on the left.

Astronomical Clock

http://www.staromestskaradnicepraha.cz/en/astronomical-clock/
Address: Staroměstské nám. 1, 110 00 Praha 1, Czech Republic
Hours: Visit the Tower, Monday, 1100-2200, Tuesday-Sunday, 0900-2200
Admission: Tower, Adults, 130 CZK, Children, ages 6-15, Students under 26, Senior over 65, 80 CZK, Children, ages 4-6, 30 CZK, Family admission (2 adults, 4 children, up to age 15), 280 CZK
How To Get There: Old Town center

The Castle on the Hill

When someone finds themselves in Prague for the very first time, no doubt, they will be drawn to the Prague Castle. A showpiece of the city, it is perched above the Lesser Town (Mala Strana) in the Castle District and keeps a watchful eye on the activities of the city.

One of the largest castle complexes in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site, it was founded in the 9th century by Prince Bořivoj of the Premyslid Dynasty. Consisting of numerous palaces and ecclesiastical buildings of various architectural styles, the castle is the official residence of the President of the Czech Republic. Once a seat of power for kings of Bohemia, Holy Roman emperors and presidents of Czechoslovakia, it is one of the primary tourist attractions of the city.

Up early and heading on the subway towards the Castle, we were excited for all that there was to experience in the complex. On previous visits, I had been on the Castle grounds but had never visited any of the major buildings. Exiting the Malostranska metro station, we decided to make the long steady climb to the castle rather than connect to the tram so that we could experience the beautiful views of the city along the way as well as encounter the Karel Hasler statue and the usual accompanying guitarist.

Once inside the complex, finding where to purchase tickets was a bit perplexing. Entering the Old Royal Palace, I finally discovered a ticket window. Many different attraction combinations are offered and we decided on Option B, the most popular option (according to the ticket seller) which included the Royal Palace and Vladislav Hall, St. Vitus Cathedral, Basilica of St. George and Golden Lane. After our tickets were purchased and we were waiting to enter Vladislav Hall within the palace, I noticed that now familiar sign…the one with the camera and a slash through it. Oh no! Not again! However, after reading a little further, I found that pictures were allowed with a permit that could also be purchased at the ticket window.

Entering Vladislav Hall, we were impressed with the size of the structure as well as the arch-ribbed vaulting of the ceiling, the large Italian Renaissance windows and the five bronze 16th century Renaissance chandeliers. Originally designed to serve as a throne hall, it was the largest hall in medieval Prague and one of the largest halls in Central Europe. Built in the Late Gothic Style with some Early Renaissance features, the exact dates of construction are not clear. Used for banquets, councils, coronations and indoor jousting tournaments, one of the most notable features is the Rider’s Staircase on the northern side which was designed to receive a knight on horseback.

One of the oldest parts of the Prague Castle, the Old Royal Palace dates back to 1135. Moving from Vladislav Hall in the southwestern corner into the former offices of the Bohemian Chancellery, you find the room where Protestant nobles, rebelling against the Bohemian estates and the emperor, threw two of the emperor’s counselors and their secretary out of the window, which sparked the Thirty Years’ War.

At the eastern end of the hall, steps lead up to a balcony that overlooks All Saints’ Chapel. Another doorway, leads to the Assembly Hall, which contains replicas of the Bohemian crown jewels. A spiral staircase leads to the New Land Rolls Room, the repository for land titles, where the walls are covered with the clerks’ coats of arms.

A couple of the most interesting stories about the castle pertain to the procurement of the castle by Nazi Germany in 1939. When President Emil Hacha was forced to hand the Czech nation over to the Germans, Adolf Hitler spent a night in the castle gloating over his new acquisition. During the Nazi occupation in World War II, the castle became the headquarters of Reinhard Heydrich, the “Reich Protector of Bohemia and Moravia”. Placing the Bohemian crown on his own head, he was doomed according to legend, which states that if a despot places the crown on his head, he is doomed to die within a year. Less than a year after assuming power, he was attacked by British-trained Slovak and Czech soldiers while on his way to the castle and died of his wounds.

The Old Royal Palace was very interesting and filled with history. The old saying, “If the walls could talk”, is definitely true here as many historical events have taken place on the premises.

Moving on from the Old Royal Palace, we decided to backtrack from the Palace towards our original entry point, to Golden Lane, the 15th century, old world street within the complex. Originally known as Goldsmith’s Lane for the many goldsmiths that resided there, it was created when a new outer wall was added to the existing complex.

Once when visiting the castle grounds, I was able to quickly walk through Golden Lane at the end of the day when the grounds were closing, but unable to catch more than a glimpse of the old world buildings. This time, we were able to visit each of the eleven historic houses that contain period scenes that depict the life of the artisans who worked and lived in the structures.

In the upper level of the houses, a medieval armory is showcased with a multitude of suits of armor and weapons. Cannons are also displayed in the courtyard at the entry area of the lane.

After our visit to Golden Lane was complete and we headed back toward the center of the complex, we decided to duck into St. George’s Basilica, while there was no line. The oldest surviving church building within the complex and the second oldest in Prague, the basilica was founded by Vratislaus I of Bohemia in 920. Rebuilt after being destroyed by fire in 1142, the present facade, with its twin white towers than can been seen throughout the city, was added between the years of 1671 and 1691. The basilica holds the tomb of saint Ludmila of Bohemia as well as shrines of Vratislav and Boleslaus II of Bohemia. It also serves as a concert hall.

Our next and final visit was to the imposing Gothic structure of St. Vitus’ Cathedral. To many people, the Prague Castle is St. Vitus Cathedral as it is what dominates the skyline. Known primarily as St. Vitus Cathedral, it is also dedicated to Saints Wenceslas and Adalbert.

The largest and most important church in the country, St. Vitus was founded on November 21, 1344. Taking almost six centuries to complete, it was damaged by a great fire in 1541 and its final phase of construction took place between 1873 and 1929.

The line to enter St. Vitus was extremely long and was hampered by the security measures employed at the entrance. After an hour’s wait, we were finally able enter the cathedral.

As we walked throughout the interior, we stood among the massive pillars supporting the magnificent vaulted ceiling and were impressed by the side chapels and the beautiful stained glass windows, most notably one designed by Mucha, installed in the north nave in 1931. The window, portrays St. Wenceslas, as a boy, with his grandmother, St. Ludmila, surrounded by episodes from the lives of Saints Cyril and Methodius who spread Christianity among the Slavs. The image of Slavia is also included below Christ.

The extraordinary cathedral has overseen the coronation of Czech kings and queens and contains the tombs of many Bohemian kings and Holy Roman Emperors. In the chancel of the cathedral, in front of the high alter, is the royal mausoleum. Below this, the royal crypt accommodates the royal tombs. Czech kings and queens, archbishops and patron saints of the country are interred here, most importantly, St. John of Nepomuk and King Charles IV.

The most exceptional part of the cathedral is St. Wenceslas Chapel, built between 1344 and 1364 and is where the relics of the saint are kept. The lower part of the walls are decorated with over 1300 semi-precious stones and frescoes of the Passion of Christ. The upper walls’ paintings depict the life of St. Wenceslas and a Gothic statue of St. Wenceslas stands in the middle of the wall. The chapel is not open to the public, but it can be viewed from two doorways. It is also here that the priceless Bohemian coronation jewels, the fourth oldest in Europe, are stored behind a small door secured by seven locks. The Czech Crown Jewels are only displayed to the public once every eight years, however, the replicas can be seen in the Old Royal Palace.

Religious services in the Cathedral can be attended daily and confessions are heard twice a week.

After visiting all of the attractions included in our ticket, we were free to wander the grounds of the castle. There are many other parts of the castle to visit, including the gardens, St. George’s convent and the National Gallery, the exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, the Powder Tower, the Toy Museum and the picture gallery of Prague Castle. One of the most memorable things to take in is the changing of the guard which takes place hourly on the hour with the midday ceremony including a fanfare & banner exchange.

No visit to the Czech capital is complete without a visit to the Prague Castle. Whether you decide to walk the grounds or purchase a ticket and visit one of the many historical buildings within the grounds, you will not be disappointed with all that there is to offer.

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The Prague Castle

https://www.hrad.cz/
Address: Prague Castle, Castle District, Prague 1, Czech Republic
Admission Information: https://www.hrad.cz/en/prague-castle-for-visitors/tickets
Ticket Type: Prague Castle – Circuit A, Adults 350CZK, Students 175CZK, Family 700CZK
St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, St. George’s Basilica, Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower, Powder Tower
Ticket Type: Prague Castle – Circuit B, Adults, 250CZK, Students 125CZK, Family 500CZK
St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica, Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower
Prague Castle – Circuit C, Adults 350CZK, Students 175CZK, Family 700CZK
Exhibition “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral”, Prague Castle Picture Gallery
Exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, Adults 140CZK, Students 70CZK, Family 280CZK
Exhibition “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral”, Adults 300CZK, Students 150CZK, Family 600CZK
Prague Castle Picture Gallery, Adults 100CZK, Students 50CZK, Family 200CZK
Powder Tower – Exhibition of the Castle Guard, Adults 70CZK, Students 40CZK, Family 140CZK
Great South Tower with a View Gallery, Adults 150CZK
Note: Tickets are valid for two consecutive days.
Photography Permit, 50CZK, photography allowed without flash and tripod, prohibited in exhibitions “The Story of Prague Castle”, “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral” and in Prague Castle Picture Gallery
Hours: Prague Castle Complex, daily 0600-2200, Historical buildings, April 1-October 31, 0900-1700, November 1-March 31, 0900-1600, Prague Castle Gardens, April & October, 1000-1800, May & September, 1000-1900, June & July 1000-2100, August, 1000-2000, Changing of the Guard, April-October, hourly on the hour, 0700-2000, November-March, hourly on the hour, 0700-1800
St. Vitus Cathedral Masses: Sunday Mass, 0830 (celebrated in Latin every last Sunday of the month), Sunday Vespers, 1700 (not during July-September), Monday-Thursday Mass, 0700, Friday Masses, 0700 and 1800, Saturday Mass, 0700, Confessions (Czech and English) Sunday, 0930-1000 and Friday, 1730-1750.
Getting There: Metro station: Malostranska (line A), then take tram 22 to Prazsky hrad (shortest route). You can also walk the many steps uphill from Malostranska.